Do-it-yourself steam room - let the steam be easy. How to make a steam room in a wooden bath Do-it-yourself steam room in the country

Agree, it is very convenient to have a mini-steam room right in your house or in the country, and not just on personal plot? The ability to take bath procedures at any time of the day or night, reducing energy costs, quick warm-up - this is only a small part of the benefits compact bath before traditional. But most importantly, it is much easier to equip it with your own hands. If you are more and more thinking about a mini-steam room, to your attention is the phased technology of its construction with detailed photos and useful videos.

Steam room project and assembly

The first stage of the device mini-steam room in the house or in the country - drawing up a project. It will save you from mistakes at all subsequent stages of construction. The project must contain:

• general drawing of the steam room;
• frame dimensions;
• location and connection diagram of the heating device and ventilation;
• internal filling of the steam room.

Determine the size of the mini steam room at your discretion: depending on your needs and the available space. Practice shows that the optimal dimensions for a home bath are 2x2 or 2x1.6 m. As for the location, most often the steam room is equipped in the bathroom, since all the necessary communications are already there. Although, if square meters allow, you can allocate a loggia or even a separate room for it.

Steam room in the bathroom

The second stage is the installation of a steam room:

1. Pour the floating concrete floor into the marked work area.
2. Assemble the frame of the bath from vertical bars. Install the elements in increments of 60 cm and fix them with self-tapping screws and corners.
3. Install a door between a pair of bars: a compartment, a hinged or Velcro canvas, a structure - everything that your budget and imagination allow.
4. Lay ceramic tiles on the concrete floor. Subsequently, it will need to be closed with wooden bars.
5. Sheathe the frame with outside wooden panels. It can be boards made of coniferous or hardwood, or. Install the panels horizontally and fasten to the frame with screws and dowels.

Advice. To prevent the penetration of moisture into the casing, mount wooden panels with little overlap.

Wall insulation

Advice. It is better to refuse foamed polymers - they are very flammable, therefore, at high temperatures, they can not only begin to decompose or release nice smell but also burn.

The recommended layer of mineral wool is at least 5 cm. It is laid on the inside of the frame between the bars. But pre-wooden cladding sheets are covered with aluminum foil - it will serve as an intermediate layer between the thermal insulation and the outer skin and protect the wood from condensation.

Mineral wool is overlapped on the foil. A layer of waterproofing is again arranged on top of the insulation - aluminum foil can also be used here. In this case, the reflective layer of the material should not be directed towards the mineral wool, but towards the steam room. The foil should be fixed with a construction stapler on frame bars. And between themselves, the sheets of the waterproofing must be connected with adhesive tape.

After laying the thermal insulation, sew up the walls of the mini-steam room from the inside. You can use the same wood materials as for the exterior walls.

Electric oven for mini-bath

Heating and ventilation

To heat a mini-steam room in the house, it is easiest to use an electric heater stove. Its power is calculated according to a simple scheme: 1.5 kW per 1 sq.m. area. That is, for a home bath 2x2 m, a device with a power of 4-6 kW will suffice. It can even be connected to a standard single-phase power supply.

The electric furnace is located either on the wall or on the floor, but always near the door - this is necessary so that the cold air coming from outside is immediately captured and warmed up by hot air currents. The stove is equipped with a compartment for stones - when poured with water, they form steam, which increases the humidity in the mini-steam room.

Also, the electric furnace is equipped with a thermostat, thanks to which the required comfortable temperature is maintained in the steam room.

Another mandatory stage in the arrangement of a mini-bath in the house is the organization of ventilation:

1. At the bottom of the floor near the stove in one of the walls of the steam room, make an air inlet.
2. Make an exhaust hole as far as possible from the air inlet and from the door in the wall.

Both openings must lead to the same room, which, in turn, must have a ventilation exhaust duct facing the street. An electric fan should be installed in the hood.

Interior arrangement

Finally, the final stage of creating a mini-steam room is its internal content. For the convenience of using the bath you will need:

• benches;
• footrests;
• headrests;
• shelves.

To finish the steam room, it is better to choose natural wood.

This is the minimum set, which, with the correct calculation of the dimensions, will fit perfectly in a mini-steam room. In order not to miscalculate with the dimensions, all filling elements must be included in the drawing at the stage of creating the steam room project.

All bath components must be made of wood that does not contain resin and is characterized by low thermal conductivity: linden, spruce, aspen. You can make benches and shelves with your own hands, but it is better to buy footrests and headrests in special stores.

Also an important component of filling a mini-steam room - lighting. It should be only heat and moisture resistant lamps. To ensure safety, switches must be placed exclusively on the outside of the bath.

Thus, a mini-steam room in a private house or in the country is not at all a hard-to-reach exotic, but a completely feasible idea. For its successful implementation, you need to think through every moment: design, size, decoration, heating, ventilation, interior design - paying maximum attention to each of these moments, you will get a functional and comfortable mini-bath that will give you a lot of pleasant moments.

Steam room in the house: video

Mini steam room in the house: photo

Without a steam room, a bath becomes ordinary room where people wash. It is steam that has healing properties, rejuvenates the body, gives strength and good spirits. At first glance, the arrangement of the steam room is not particularly difficult. This small room has a minimum of architectural delights. However, during its arrangement it is necessary to observe a number of important rules. Only then will the steam room be able to bring real pleasure to lovers of a real Russian bath.

Project selection

It is necessary to design a steam room even before the construction of the bath begins. Its dimensions will depend on many indicators.

When calculating, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances.

The first sketch below shows small bath with a steam room, in which the shelves are placed only sitting.

The other two drawings schematically show more spacious rooms in which you can bathe already lying down.

1), 10), 11) Clothes hanger, wardrobe.
5), 7) Benches.
2) Recreation room.
6) Shelves.
3) Steam room.
8) Doors.
4) Washing room.
9) Furnace.

Schematically depicting the location of the stove and shelves in the steam room, you can calculate its dimensions in advance and avoid annoying mistakes during construction.

Type, power and dimensions of the stove. According to fire safety standards (SNiP 41-01-2003 (Heating, ventilation and air conditioning)), the stove should be located in the bath at a distance of at least 32 cm from wooden structures. If the walls are protected by non-combustible materials, then 26 cm must be retreated from them.

The iron furnace has high power, compact size and the ability to quickly warm up even a large steam room. However, its surface is very hot, there is a risk of accidental burns in case of careless actions. In view of this. in the steam room, there should be a free distance between the shelves and the iron stove.

An example of installing a metal stove in a steam room

A brick heater does not heat up so quickly and its size is much larger than that of a metal one. However, it keeps heat longer and it is impossible to seriously burn yourself about it. Therefore, there is no need to locate the furnace at a considerable distance from the shelves.

In the case of installing an electric heater, it makes sense to make the steam room as small as possible. This will save energy when heating the room.

So, when planning a steam room, you should carefully consider everything at the construction stage. After the walls, partitions and roof are erected, you can proceed directly to work on interior arrangement steam rooms.

Floor installation

The floor in the entire bath is done first. The level of the floor in the steam room should be higher than the level of the clean floor in the washroom.

There are several options for its device.

Wooden floor

The simplest is the installation of a wooden floor. To do this, support logs are installed on the foundation.

Planed boards 50 mm thick are screwed onto them at a distance of 5-10 mm from each other.

It is important that at least 50 cm remain between the floor and the ground level, and there are holes in the foundation for fresh air to enter.

This will provide good, natural ventilation in the steam room, and the boards will dry out evenly after the end of the bath procedures. However, this option for arranging the floor should only be used in areas with a warm and temperate climate. AT northern regions such ventilation can cause the heat from the steam room to dissipate too quickly.

Video - Floors in the bath along the logs with insulation

Concrete floor

A concrete floor in a steam room can last much longer than wood. However, the cost of its arrangement will be slightly higher. In addition, it will be necessary to additionally lay a finishing coating on it.

Before starting work on the installation of a cement screed in the steam room and washing room, a pit 10 to 15 cm deep should be dug for water drainage. Its walls can be fixed with cement or tiles. An iron grate is laid on top of it. From the pit, water will go through the drain pipe into the sewer.

Once the water drain is ready, you can proceed with the installation of the screed.

The level of the clean floor in the steam room should be higher than in the washing room. Therefore, before starting work on the walls, a mark is made to which the floor structure will reach. And then lay down the distance from it, which is necessary for laying all layers of the screed.

The procedure for arranging a concrete floor

IllustrationDescription

	the site is carefully leveled, if necessary, removed upper part soil
	pour a 30-40 cm layer of sand and gravel, spill it with water, ram it, making a slope towards the drain hole
	pour the first layer of concrete 5 cm thick
	after the screed has dried, strips of waterproofing material (roofing material, glass isol) are rolled out on it
	ON THE waterproofing material lay insulation with a thickness of 50 mm
	mount reinforcing metal carcass masonry mesh
	pour a layer of concrete up to 10 cm thick
	level the concrete with a board or a rule, not forgetting to make a slight slope in the direction of the sewer hole
	laying tiles or gratings from boards

Video - Drain from the bath

Vapor barrier and ceiling finish

High-quality insulation of the ceiling in the steam room is of paramount importance, since hot air from the stove rises right up. Therefore, the presence of places on the ceiling through which it could freely go outside is unacceptable.

Ceiling insulation work is carried out in the following sequence.

WorkIllustration

Hydrovapor barrier is attached to the floor beams. It could be: foil with a density of at least 100 microns; foil penoizol with a thickness of 5 to 10 mm; hydrovapor barrier membrane "Izospan", "Megaflex", etc. For installation, a construction stapler and staples with a height of 8 to 12 mm are used. The tool must be well adjusted to prevent breaks in the protective membrane. The strips are fastened with an overlap of at least 20 cm, the joints between them are carefully glued with aluminum tape. At the edges, the insulation should go on the walls of the steam room by 15 cm.
After attaching the waterproofing to the floor beams, wooden slats 50 mm wide and 25 mm thick are screwed strictly according to the level. The distance between them should be no more than 70 cm. Before installation, they are treated with an antiseptic composition.
To the slats, lining made of linden, birch or aspen is fastened. Finishing material is placed perpendicular to the boards of the crate. Installation starts with opposite side from the door. Fastening is carried out either on galvanized nails or on kleimers.
From the side of the attic, grooves are made in the floor beams and transverse fasteners for the chimney are inserted into them.
On the ceiling cut a rectangular opening under the chimney.
Between the floor beams in the attic, a layer of insulation with a thickness of 150 to 200 mm is laid.
A wind and vapor barrier membrane is rolled out over the insulation and fixed with a furniture stapler.
Then the floor boards are installed in the attic.

Wall insulation

If the walls in the bath are built of foam blocks or frame technology, then the steam room requires additional insulation. Inside, you should get a thermos impervious to cold, which will perfectly retain the heat emanating from the stove. This will save fuel, which is used for heating and maintaining the desired temperature in the steam room for a long time.

Before starting work, an opening is cut in the wall for installing the furnace.

Then a wind and vapor barrier film is attached to the walls.

At the next stage, basalt non-combustible insulation is tightly laid between the bars.

After that, hydrovapor barrier is nailed to the bars with galvanized brackets.

As a protective material can be used:

foil with a density of 150 to 200 microns;

foil foamed penoizol;

bath waterproofing membrane

Strips of moisture-resistant material are nailed with staples with an overlap of at least 15 cm, the joints are sealed with a special adhesive tape.

Then, rails 25 mm thick and 30 to 50 mm wide are horizontally attached to the bars with galvanized self-tapping screws at a distance of 70 cm from each other. The crate should be installed as evenly as possible, for this you should use laser level or plumb. Start the installation with the two extreme rails, then pull the cord between them. And already focusing on it, they nail the rest of the crate.

At the next stage, the lining board is directly fastened. To do this, use either ordinary galvanized nails 40-50 mm long, or special kleimers.

The principle of fastening the clamps in the groove of the board

Finally, even holes for ventilation are cut in the walls. From above they are masked with plugs or shutters. If necessary, a fan is mounted in the supply or exhaust opening.

If the walls in the steam room are made of logs or profiled timber, then they do not require such thorough insulation. In this case, it will be enough to fix foil or foil penoizol on them. Then nail the crate and install the lining.

Furnace installation

The stove in the steam room can be installed iron, brick or electric. A place for it should be chosen at the design stage of the bath. The furnace firebox can be located both inside the steam room and outside it.

Installation procedure in a steam iron furnace:

The electric oven is installed on a pre-prepared platform or hung on the wall using special brackets. It does not require the installation of a chimney.

Be sure to observe the distances specified in the instructions from the oven to the walls and shelves.

brick oven

A brick oven is laid out even at the construction stage of the bath.

Only that part of it, in which there will be stones, should go into the steam room. The firebox is best placed in the dressing room or on the street.

Video - The secrets of building a bath

Door installation

The door in the steam room is installed last. It should close tightly and not let heat out. Doors made of solid wood or tempered glass are best suited for this purpose.

Installation wooden door consists of the following steps:

a doorway is adjusted under the casing;

the “casing” cannot be screwed to the beam, it must move freely along the grooves, the gaps between it and the wall are carefully caulked;

Another way to install a wooden door is to cut grooves in the opening.

They install wooden bars so that their edge does not reach 5-10 cm to the top of the opening. And the door frame is already directly attached to them.

Fixing the pigtail to the rail and hanging the door

Glass doors are mounted on special hinges.

Video - Casing under a plastic window in a log house

Video - Okosyachka (part 1)

Video - Okosyachka (part 2)

Video - Okosyachka (part 3)

How to make shelves

The number of shelves in the steam room depends on its dimensions. Their height is selected depending on the growth of the owners of the bath. In the standard version, three-level shelves are allowed, each of which is 35 cm high. However, it is also possible to have two shelves. In a small steam room, the lower level of the bench can be equipped with a retractable mechanism and extend as needed.

First you need to choose the shape of the shelves and assemble the frame. It is best to make it from larch. There are many options for its location. It can be rectangular or angular.

over installed frame lay wooden boards.

The boards in them should be located loosely, at a distance of 1 cm from each other.

Shields should be made from linden or aspen. Coniferous woods are not suitable for this purpose, since resin is released from them under the influence of high temperatures.

Efficient ventilation

An important stage in the arrangement of the steam room is ventilation. In its absence, a long stay in the steam room becomes unsafe for human health. And improper installation of air ducts can lead to heat loss and unnecessary fuel costs for the full heating of the room.

Do not make a hole for the ventilation duct directly on the ceiling of the steam room. This will lead to large heat losses, and hence a decrease in the effectiveness of taking bath procedures.

The most common are several options for the location of ventilation ducts in the steam room.

Layout optionScheme or illustration

	The inflow of oxygen comes from the opening, which is located behind the furnace, a fan is mounted in it. The distance from the floor is 25 cm. The outflow is carried out naturally through the gateway, which is located on the opposite wall. The lower it is located, the better.

During the direct adoption of bath procedures, the ventilation holes in the walls can be closed with valves. And then open them as needed.

As ventilation ducts, galvanized or stainless pipes. Apply plastic structures in the steam room is not recommended. Pipes must be fastened to special clamps.

It must be remembered that the diameter of the exhaust channel should be slightly larger than the supply one.

Having decided on the ventilation scheme, holes of the required sizes should be made in the walls or floor.

Their diameter depends on the area of ​​the ventilated room, but it cannot be less than 100 mm. Then you need to insert ventilation channels into them.

The remaining distance between the wall and the pipe must be laid with non-combustible insulation. From the side of the street, fix the protective grille.

Electricity

At the final stage of arranging the steam room, installation is performed electrical wiring. All switches and junction boxes must be located outside the steam room and shower room.

The wires are laid in the corrugation over the lining.

In the steam room, they are covered with wooden skirting boards from above.

Fixtures in the steam room should be protected by wooden bars.

Video - The device of the Russian bath

How to make a steam room in the bath correctly and beautifully

The manufacturing quality of the steam room directly determines the convenience of using the bath, how safe the bath procedures will be, as well as the presentability of the steam room, the cost of construction and further maintenance. In this article with photo and video materials, we will try to tell you more about how to make a steam room in a bath correctly.

The advantages of building a steam room with your own hands:

1. There is no need to hire third-party specialists, to spend additional money on their services, which greatly helps to save money.
2. You will personally control all the work, so you can be completely confident in the effectiveness of its implementation.

In order to build a bath with a steam room with your own hands, you should first arrange the order of work and follow the existing instructions and rules.

Creating a steam room project

First of all, a project is prepared, at least the simplest one, so that the plan for future work is clear. The main thing in the steam room is the stove, because there are a lot of them, and each of them imposes its own requirements on the dimensions of the steam room, the type of ventilation system, the place of installation of future shelves, and so on.

When determining the size when arranging a steam room with your own hands, you should take into account the possible number of people visiting the bath at the same time. This is very important, since it is necessary that all of them feel comfortable in the steam room, and that there is no idle space in the bath, which also requires heating costs. Most often, a steam room is built with dimensions of 2400 × 2000 mm with a height of 2200 mm.

The construction of the steam room does not provide for the installation of windows, since artificial lighting will be quite enough. It should be noted that for each installed window thermal insulation will need to be considered, which entails additional costs. It is allowed to install one blind window no more than 50 × 50 cm. At the same time, in order to make the steam room properly, you should pay attention to the highest quality double-glazed windows that have maximum efficiency in terms of sound and heat insulation.

Before you make a steam room in the bath, consider the correct ventilation system in the project. Without normal circulation of air flows, the tree will quickly become unusable due to constant excessive humidity - mold will form over time, and the microclimate itself will cease to be useful for humans.

After completing the creation of the project, it will become clearer how to make a steam room in the bath with your own hands, and you can proceed directly to the implementation of your plan. At the preparatory stage, it is recommended to carry out work on the arrangement of thermal insulation in the steam room.

Steam room insulation process

Thermal insulation should be thought out especially carefully, otherwise more fuel will have to be spent on heating the bath and maintaining the desired temperature.

On the initial stage the ceiling is being prepared for insulation. It can simply be sheathed with foam boards, temporarily securing them with any accessible means, then sheathing with moisture-resistant plywood or other material similar in properties. The insulation is laid between the beams, while the minimum thickness of the plates should be 10 cm. A vapor barrier is laid on top of the plates, and the base under the plates must also be covered with plastic wrap. See also: "How to make a steam room insulation correctly and what materials to use."

The next step is to insulate the walls. First, a frame is made of square wooden beam 50×50 cm, which is attached to the wall. The step is chosen so that between the bars the sheets of insulation can easily lie down. As a rule, for walls, an acceptable thickness of insulation is 5 cm.

Joints adjacent between the plates are glued with metallized adhesive tape. Mineral wool can be used as a wall insulation. Under the insulation this case plastic film or other water-repellent material is also fixed.

The floors in the steam rooms should not be insulated, but if there is still a desire, then you can limit yourself to filling expanded clay with subsequent pouring of a cement screed. And then lay tiles or install wood flooring.

As an interior decoration of the steam room, as a rule, wooden lining is used.

First of all, shelves and benches are mounted, and after that they move on to clapboard lining. Rocks are best suited as a material coniferous trees, because they emit a very pleasant smell and, when heated, can have a healing effect on the body.

The lining is fastened to a pre-laid insulation and other materials to protect against moisture. The boards are installed close to each other, and galvanized self-tapping screws can be used as fasteners.

Bath floor installation

It is possible to build a bath with a steam room as high as possible, if carried out correct finish gender. The material used should not be afraid of frequent and sudden changes in both temperature and humidity levels. Aspen is best suited from wood species - it is inexpensive and has a pleasant appearance, besides, it is easy to process and lasts a very long time. Benches in the bath are best attached to the wall, so you can save some space.

In addition, there is an alternative way to cover the floor in the bath - this is the use of ceramic tiles. This coating makes it possible to make the steam room in the bath easier than ever to operate.

First, the base is cleaned and covered with a layer of a mixture of gravel and sand 15 cm thick. Then the backfill is compacted and poured with cement mortar, 5 cm thick, and leveled. Finally, after the mortar has hardened, lay the tile.

Deciding on a stove among a huge assortment, you can find brick and metal structures that can be powered either by electricity or by burning solid or liquid fuels. And each variety will have its pros and cons.

At metal furnaces the following shortcomings can be identified:

• their cooling after shutdown occurs quite quickly;
• touching a hot metal, you can get a burn, which will require all safety measures to be provided for the steam room when installing it.

In a brick oven, only the need to lay an independent foundation before it is installed can be considered a disadvantage.

Recently, furnaces powered by the mains have shown themselves well. For them, you do not need to install a chimney, and the installation is quite capable of doing it yourself. However, the operation of electrical appliances in saunas requires a careful approach and following a number of precautions, the neglect of which can lead to events that can be detrimental to steam room visitors.

Soapstone furnaces deserve special attention. These are the latest units, which are notable for their ability to carry out gradual and even heating of the steam room. They radiate a pleasant and soft warmth comparable to that produced by the sun.

It is preferable to place the oven in the corner closest to the door. It is considered the safest, and, moreover, saves free space.

Steam room door installation

At the final stage of the construction of the steam room, it will be necessary to install the door. In this process, it should be borne in mind that the door frame should be lower than usual, and the threshold should be higher than is customary in houses. This approach makes it possible to reduce the amount of heat lost through the door, and also prevents drafts from forming. The normal threshold height is 30 centimeters.

The door is installed in such a way that people who will enter it cannot accidentally get burned from the heated material. The tree conducts heat quite well - in this regard, it is better to cover the door with foil and a special insulation on both sides of the door. You can hide these protective materials, for example, with a clapboard that is not afraid of moisture.

To avoid such nuances, and not resort to additional work, it is better to purchase and install glass doors. They look flawless on the outside, and will be resistant to any conditions that may arise in the bath.

We hope that everyone who has read the article now knows how to make a steam room in the bath with their own hands. The main thing is to give maximum attention to the arrangement of the bath, your strength, and save finances only in special occasions. As a result, you will build a really high-quality, beautiful, reliable and at the same time safe steam room that can work for many years, delighting you with its warmth.

Warming the steam room in the bath: step by step instructions

Thermal insulation of the steam room is a must in any bath, regardless of the material of its manufacture. It is best to devote time to this matter during the construction phase, although in finished bath this is also possible. How to do the warming of a steam room in a bath with your own hands - you will learn from our article. The steam room is the most important part of the bath. It should not be cold, and such a statement can hardly be disputed. Every zealous owner of the bath tries to minimize any heat loss in its steam department, since the extra costs for heating, problems with heating the room, keeping it warm and the discomfort of bath procedures usually do not please anyone. For reliable thermal insulation of the steam room, it is necessary to go through several stages of work on the insulation of its walls, floor and ceiling.

Features of reducing heat loss in the steam room

To avoid unnecessary costs for kindling the stove and keeping heat in the steam room, you need to take into account several simple rules bath plans:

• The area of ​​the building is determined depending on the number of visitors present in it at the same time and the number of its rooms - a steam room, changing rooms and others. The size of the steam room is usually 4-6 m2.
• The location of the dressing room is planned closer to front door baths. This will keep cold air from entering the steam room.
• To save heat, the entrance from the steam room to the adjacent room can be arranged in the form of a vestibule.
• The doorway for the steam room is made with a high threshold and a width of not more than 0.7 m.
• The sauna stove is located closer to the exit.
• To reduce heat losses through the window, the latter is made of a double-glazed window and is placed at a height of 1 m from the floor of the steam room.

Thermal insulation materials for steam room insulation

Natural raw materials and artificial products are used as heat-insulating and sealing materials for the steam room.
Natural raw materials include: tow, which is used to fill gaps, sphagnum, which acts as an interventional sealant, construction frame moss - wall insulation. These materials are environmentally friendly and do a good job of protecting the premises from heat loss. However, they are prone to rapid decay and are a delicacy for insects. For this reason, natural heaters are recommended to be treated with antiseptics, and their use for a steam room is undesirable.
Artificial materials for insulation are expanded clay and polystyrene boards, basalt wool and regular foam. All of them are distinguished by moisture resistance, biological safety, long-term operation and a high degree thermal insulation. Expanded clay slabs are used to insulate the floor of steam rooms, polystyrene foam - for their attic floors, and basalt wool - for walls and ceilings.
For the insulation and waterproofing of the walls and ceiling of the steam room, foil insulation is currently used. It is a roll of basalt wool with a layer of aluminum foil glued on it. When using this material, the process of insulating structures is greatly simplified - the foil protects the insulation from moisture and contributes to the reflection of heat from the enclosing structures into the room.

Insulation of the ceiling of the steam room in the bath

To insulate the ceiling in the steam room, we will use a modern method, which involves the use of foil material as a vapor barrier layer.
The work consists of five stages:

1. Insulation is attached to the ceiling beams with a stapler, facing the inside of the room with a layer of aluminum foil, which simultaneously serves as a heat-reflecting screen. This will reduce the cost of heating and keeping the steam room warm by 2-3 times. The joints of the panels of the overlapped insulator are glued with aluminum tape. Other vapor barrier materials are also used for baths, but they are not as effective.
2. The ceiling batten supporting the insulation is fastened with screws across the ceiling beams. Sheathing required for installation outer skin ceiling. On the inside of the ceiling of the room, an air heat-reflecting gap is left between the future sheathing and the sheets of foil insulation.
3. The selected insulation is laid from the side attic space between ceiling beams. It should be tight, without the slightest gaps.
4. A polyethylene film is laid and fixed on top of the insulation to protect it from moisture and dust from the street. To avoid mechanical damage to the multilayer thermal insulation in the attic, a rough plank floor is laid along the beams.
5. On the last step works, the ceiling of the steam room is sheathed along the crate with a wooden clapboard. The material for it can be hardwood - linden, aspen, etc. What material to choose is up to you.

When warming the steam room in frame bath such thermal insulation of the ceiling is necessary, but for a log cabin - optional. There are enough boards 6 cm thick, fixed on ceiling beams, and a layer of mineral wool 15 cm.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the steam room in the bath

Before the internal insulation of the walls in the steam room, it is necessary to seal all joints and gaps in them with a sealant. After the composition has dried, you can begin to perform thermal insulation. Its process is similar to the insulation of the ceiling, but has some nuances. Wall insulation is carried out in a horizontal direction around the perimeter double room moving from the top to the floor. Moreover, the strip of foil overlaps to the slope left during the insulation of the ceiling. The insulated wall of the steam room should have three layers of protection: waterproofing, thermal insulation and vapor barrier membrane.
The order of work is this:

• To exclude the possibility of the formation of vapor condensate on the walls, the enclosing structures of the steam room are covered with a waterproofing film.
• The heat-insulating layer of mineral wool is placed in a crate of timber, which is stuffed onto the wall along the waterproofing and the intermediate layer of clean paper.
• The vapor barrier layer protects the insulation from exposure to moist air. For this purpose, a foil membrane is used, which is attached over the insulation to the crate using a stapler. The joints of her overlapped canvases are glued with metal tape.
• At the last stage, a lining made of hardwood is attached on top of the membrane to the wooden frame of the wall.

Unlike warming a steam room in a brick bath, a wooden building will require fewer heat-insulating materials, since the wood itself has similar properties.
Important! Before the outer wall cladding, thin laths must be stuffed onto the crate to create air gap, which together with the foil membrane will create a heat-reflecting effect.

Warming the floor of the steam room in the bath

A concrete floor is stronger and more durable than a wooden one, as it is not afraid of moisture. It is very easy to take care of the tiles laid on the screed. But tiles are cold material. Wooden floors for a steam room are much more suitable. To reduce its heat loss, both types of floors require insulation.

Insulation of the wooden floor in the steam room

Structurally wooden floor has differences from the concrete floor, but their thermal insulation has the same principle. The whole system looks like this: foundation, floor beams, logs laid on beams, a layer of vapor barrier material, a subfloor, insulation, a waterproofing layer, a finishing floor.
After installing the log and laying the vapor barrier material, the space between the floor beams is filled with insulation. They can be sand, slag, expanded clay, fiberglass or mineral wool mats and foam. Waterproofing and a finishing floor are laid on the insulation.

Thermal insulation of the concrete floor in the steam room

The scheme of the concrete insulated floor in the steam room is as follows: foundation, concrete floor, waterproofing layer, insulation, concrete screed, ceramic tile or wooden floor.
You can see that such a floor is similar to a kind of "sandwich", consisting of a couple of layers of concrete and insulation laid between them. In the same way, the floor of a bathhouse erected on a columnar foundation is insulated. The difference here is that the monolithic base is replaced by a reinforced concrete slab laid on a frame made of a metal channel.
Work on floor insulation in the steam room consists of several stages:

1. The laying of the base of the lower layer of the floor is carried out from concrete mix having a crushed stone fraction of 20-35 mm. The thickness of the concrete cushion is 120-150 mm.
2. The waterproofing is laid after the polymerization of the concrete. Roofing material, roofing felt and bituminous mastics can serve as materials for it. Before applying the latter, the base is painted with a special primer. Waterproofing is laid on concrete surface after its treatment with two or three layers of bituminous material.
3. For the installation of insulation, mineral wool, perlite, boiler slag with a layer of 250-300 mm, foam plastic, expanded clay with a layer of 100-150 mm, etc. are used.
4. The second layer of the floor is laid on the heat-insulating material. In the concrete of this layer, a finer fraction of crushed stone is used.

The finished floor can be covered with a platform made of wood. After the end of the bath procedures, it is removed, washed and dried.
How to insulate a steam room in a bath - look at the video:

As you can see, warming a steam room is easy to do on your own. Turn on your patience and diligence, and the result will be sure! Author: TutKnow.ru editors

How to make floors in a steam bath

When a private bath is being built or overhauled, the floors in the steam room require special attention.
Floors must be durable, heat-resistant and slightly susceptible to moisture. Otherwise, they will quickly become unusable and will have to be completely replaced.

Necessary properties of the floor in the steam room

An independent floor device in a steam bath requires compliance with basic rules. According to standard technological characteristics, the floors in the bath in the steam room and sink should have the following properties:

• trouble-free disposal of used water;
• the ability to maintain temperature for a long time;
• cleaning without much effort and the use of expensive household chemicals.

On a note! It is very important that the floors in the steam room do not create discomfort for vacationers.

Cold and slippery surfaces that are walked on with bare feet will spoil all the pleasure of bath procedures. In addition, it is unsafe for health. Therefore, you need to carefully select the material and properly equip the floors in the steam bath; which materials are better to use, how to conduct everything necessary work how to care for the finished floor in order to increase its service life - these and some other important issues will be covered in the proposed material.

What materials are needed

If you are going to make the floors in the bath in the steam room with your own hands, you need to carefully study the laying technology and prepare everything you need. Regardless of the design of the floor and the planned finish coating, you will first need to carry out preparatory work. To carry them out, you will need the following materials:

• concrete screed components - cement, sand, gravel;
• reinforcing mesh;
• roll waterproofing - roofing material and / or polyethylene;
• insulation;
• wooden beam with a section of 30 by 50 mm, 70 by 100 mm and / or 50 by 80 mm, depending on the design of the floor and the planned finishing coating;
• a board with a tongue and groove with a tongue-and-groove lock - for non-leaking floors;
• flat board - for leaking floors;
• outlet pipes for waste water;
• siphon and grate for arranging a drain;
• antiseptic and other solutions for pre-treatment wood;
• brick;
• asbestos-concrete pipes.

For work, you need to prepare the following tools and devices:

• tank for mixing the solution;
• construction mixer;
• scales and/or measuring container;
• wire cutters;
• tape measure, plumb line, level;
• a hammer;
• technical knife;
• plane;
• grinder;
• sledgehammer;
• puncher or electric drill;
• hard brush.

Preparing the base for the floor in the steam room

When a decision is made which floor in the steam bath is planned to be made, the installation of the base for it begins. At the same time, it must be remembered that it is necessary to correctly calculate the angle of inclination of the surface for the flow of water falling onto the floor. On the Internet, you can find ready-made tables and other calculation materials for the correct manufacture of the floor structure.

After designing and manufacturing the base, it is necessary to install a pipe for draining waste water and select the location of the drain hole. It can be arranged in the center of the room or against the wall. When placing a drain hole in the corner of the steam room, a special groove is mounted to it along the wall.

The most popular materials for arranging floors are concrete or board. They can be used both individually and in combination. If projected light frame bath, the floor in the steam room can be made of tongue-and-groove boards or beams.

On a note! It is easier to equip a combined floor made of wood and concrete, it turns out to be especially strong, comfortable and durable.

How to make a concrete floor in a steam room

At the stage of arranging the foundation, it is necessary to install a drain pipe for waste water under a slope. A pit is set up for the first end. The second end is passed through the side wall and brought to the septic tank, cesspool or sewer system.

The pit for the drain pipe is lined with bricks or poured with concrete. For the latter option, you must first mount the formwork. It is built from improvised material. You can use used, but still quite strong old boards or boards.

When the installation is completed, the pit is covered with soil from the outside to about 2/3 of the height. The pipe must be filled completely. The soil needs to be leveled and compacted.

Further, under the slope, a gravel cushion is laid out from the pit to the wall. Here layer bulk material must be made 2 times thicker. The pillow must be leveled and a reinforcing mesh placed over it to maintain the slope angle.

Now you need to make the floor insulation in the bath in the steam room. To do this, a hard insulation flooring is laid on top of the mesh. You can use sheets of extruded polystyrene foam. Before pouring a finishing concrete layer, a reinforcing mesh is placed on the sheets and a rolled waterproofing agent is spread.

In another version, a draft is poured concrete screed with warming additives. For example, a crumb of polystyrene foam. The required thickness of the screed is from 3 to 5 cm. After the technological drying of the concrete, a reinforcing mesh is laid on it.

The final screed is poured strictly along the beacons to a thickness of at least 3 cm. It is advisable to use a ready-made mortar or mortar with the addition of microfiber for it. This will increase the moisture resistance and strength of the material.

The finished screed for protection against moisture can be covered with liquid glass or liquid rubber. Another option is ceramic tiles. In this case, all seams must be processed special formulations for tightness.

The drain hole is protected by a removable filter grid. This will protect against the ingress of debris and random objects. Subsequently, the filter will need to be periodically removed for thorough cleaning.

The finished floor is made from boards pre-treated with special compounds. They are laid, leaving technological gaps for the free flow of used water.

On a note! It is better to make the plank covering removable. This will allow you to freely remove it and lay it again after drying, cleaning and minor repairs.

Accidentally damaged elements will be easy to replace.

The floor in the steam room, insulated from the outside

To make an insulated floor in a steam bath, you first need to lay a pillow of compacted soil. This will keep the foundation intact. The drainage layer over the clay is poured from a mixture of sand and fine-grained bulk material - gravel, crushed stone, pebbles.

Formed in the center drain hole for waste water. It must be deepened and covered with a drainage mixture.

Logs for a wooden floor are made of asbestos concrete pipes. With their help, free air circulation in the underground space is also ensured. The final coating is made from boards laid in increments of 5 to 7 mm for the free removal of used water.

Floor without rough concrete screed

The floor of this design is laid directly on a strip or column foundation. The free space between the elements of the base of the building is filled with a solution of rough concrete. Instead, you can use a compacted soil cushion.

In the center of the steam room, it is necessary to build a tray by connecting it to the sewer pipe. This will make it easier to drain the waste water. For the manufacture of the tray, you can use boards or plastic. The base for it is one of the supporting elements of the foundation. A waterproofing layer must be laid under the tray.

The floor covering is made of densely laid boards. The slope created in the process of arranging the floor ensures that the waste water flows directly into the tray and then into the sewer pipe.

Horizontal floor in the steam room

In this embodiment, the finishing floor in the steam room in a wooden bath is laid horizontally. The drain structure is arranged in the free space between the rough screed and the finishing coating.

This design allows you to free the floors from the used water in the bath in the steam room and in the sink. To do this, the drain hole is arranged under the floor in the washing room.

The formation of the floor pie begins with the laying of the subfloor from the board. Then the lags are laid. A pillow of bulk material is poured into the free space between them. In this case, it is necessary to form a funnel for the passage of water. It is located under the future drain hole. A drain pipe is connected to the funnel from below.

Instead of a pillow, you can make a rough concrete screed, in which insulation is added. At the same time, the logs must be treated with an antiseptic and waterproofed.

How to insulate a wooden floor in a steam room

The arrangement of an insulated floor without a rough concrete screed begins during the construction of the foundation. For a non-leaking floor, sewer pipes must be installed at this stage.

The upper level of the subfloor must be raised above the soil level by 40-60 cm. This is ensured by the installation of brick columns and / or walls. Logs (floor beams) are laid on them.

The next step is waterproofing. These works are carried out after the walls are fully erected. First you need to firmly compact the soil in the free space of the foundation. After that, a roll waterproofer is laid. It is best to use ruberoid.

Now you can lay the logs and transverse bars for the subfloor. They have a draft boardwalk. A rolled vapor barrier is spread over it.

Next, mats or slabs of insulating material are laid - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, etc. On top of the insulation - a sheet of waterproofing. If the material is laid in pieces, it is necessary to make an overlap of 20 cm wide. All technological seams are protected with moisture-resistant tape.

The drain pipe is carefully guided through all layers of the floor cake and rises above the top edge of the insulation. Around it, a crate is made of a board with a thickness of at least 15 cm.

laying down boardwalk, its level along the walls needs to be raised. For this, a beam with a thickness of 3 to 5 cm is used. This will form the necessary slope in the form of a funnel. So the water will be discharged to the drain hole. It is better to place it in the center of the steam room.

Instead of a drain hole, you can use a special tray installed along the wall or in the center of the steam room. In the first case, the floor is raised against the opposite wall so that water flows freely to the tray. In the second case, the floorboards are lifted along two walls parallel to the tray.

Finished floor laying

On the finished base, you can lay a finishing coating. Pre-boards are treated with special compounds to protect against microorganisms and mold.

The cover is applied tightly. It is better to use tongue-and-groove boards with a tongue-and-groove lock. The result is a smooth Smooth surface without gaps, cracks, etc. A plinth is installed along the walls. Over the drain hole - a removable crate. Important! All technological gaps around the drain must be filled with sealant and additionally treated with a compound to increase moisture resistance.

Disposal of used water

In the absence of a sewer line to drain waste water, it is necessary to equip a drainage well, gutter or pit. For drainage well you need to dig a hole. Its depth should be twice the level of soil freezing in the coldest season. For a small family bath, a drainage well measuring 90 by 90 or 100 by 100 cm will suffice.

At the bottom of the well, you need to fill up a pillow of loose material with a thickness of about 0.5 meters. You can use expanded clay, crushed stone, broken brick or fine gravel. The input for the drainage pipe is arranged 20-30 cm below the ground level.

The installation of a floor in a steam frame bath or a bath of a different design requires special attention, accuracy and careful observance of all technologies. Read more about how to make floors in a steam bath, which ones are better - in the video offered for viewing.

The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink should be given special attention, since it (the partition) separates the premises so different in terms of functionality. Such a partition can be made of bricks, boards, timber and even foam blocks. The choice of this or that material depends, first of all, on what the bath itself is built from. If this is a log or frame structure, then it is better to use a tree so as not to disturb general concept, and brick is more suitable for a brick bath.

Partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink (wooden version)

In addition, the type of heater in the steam room is also important. If we are talking about a traditional brick oven, then it is already a partition in itself. In this case, you just need to report it until a full-fledged wall is formed. In the case of an iron stove (this option is preferable), the partition should be located at least 10 cm from it for fire safety purposes. Here the partition can be both frame and from ordinary boards.

The structure described below is wooden frame lined with clapboard and insulated with mineral wool.

Design features

Design featuresPhoto

The partition will be installed on a concrete curb, which will be 10 cm high and 12.5 cm wide. The curb is necessary not only to strengthen the structure, but also to lay tiles along it after completion of work, which will isolate the tree from water.
This threshold can be built both when pouring the screed (if the floor in the sink is concrete), and directly during installation, having built a formwork from boards. For better adhesion to concrete, the formwork walls must be coated with a deep primer and concrete contact (for example, manufactured by Knauf).
The base will be attached to the curb with anchors (1.6 cm). The end posts will be inserted into specially made grooves in the walls and secured with hex screws (9x0.8 cm). It is desirable that the grooves in the uprights themselves be oval and longitudinal - so the frame will not be an obstacle to the fall of the log house. In this case, the screws will slide with the walls, there will be no excessive load on the frame, as well as on the structure as a whole.
The upper horizontal beam of the frame should be located at least 3 cm from the ceiling. Thanks to the resulting gap, the expansion or settlement of the log house will be compensated when exposed to atmospheric phenomena. Therefore, vertical grooves in the walls are made along the entire height - from the floor to the ceiling.
For thermal insulation, it is necessary to use mineral wool 10 cm thick. The dimensions of individual cells of the future design are 120x60 cm and correspond standard sizes insulation boards. On both sides, the cotton wool should be covered with plastic wrap and fixed with a mounting stapler - this will prevent the penetration of moisture and, as a result, preserve the noise and thermal insulation properties of the material.
The lining will be fixed with kleimers to a crate made of slats 2.5x5 cm. The crate itself must be mounted on top of the film and fixed on the frame using wood screws. The lining will be laid from the corner of the structure using the tongue-and-groove technology. From the steam room, the lower beam of the crate is attached to the floor, and from the sink it is laid on the curb and fixed only to vertical supports.
After installing the door frame, the final finishing is carried out. First you need to install skirting boards (one end should be inserted into the groove of the wall), then the edges of the structure are overlapped by platbands (the latter also need to be inserted into the grooves).
The platband in the upper part of the partition can be attached directly to the ceiling, but only on condition that it will move with it, without having any effect on the wall itself. The gap formed between the structure and the ceiling must be sealed with cotton wool or any other thermal insulation material.
Wooden elements will be connected with galvanized self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws can also be used to connect open elements. To "hide" the heads of the screws, stepped holes should be made in advance in the appropriate places; when all the screws are screwed in, they will need to be closed with wooden pins of the required size.

Stage one. Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the walls and make a border. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Step 1. In opposite walls, grooves are marked and cut with a chainsaw, the dimensions of which should be 4x21.5 cm (the height depends on the specific height of the ceiling, but on average it is 250 cm).

Step 3 The floor surface in the formwork must be treated with concrete contact and a deep primer. To make the bond more reliable, you can also drill holes inside the formwork in increments of about 20 cm, hammer dowels in there and screw in the screws ½.

Step 4 After that, the formwork must be poured with concrete. When the concrete hardens, it must be covered with roofing material in two layers.

Stage two. Frame construction

Step 1. The manufacture of the frame begins with cutting blanks for its base. The dimensions of the blanks should be as follows: 6x10x210 cm and 6x10x176 cm. Having made holes for the anchors, the blanks must be installed on the curb, marked and made similar holes there.

Step 2 The blanks are securely fastened with anchors - at least three for each of them.

Step 4 An opening is made under the door frame - vertical racks are placed, the dimensions of which are 6x10x206 cm. It is important that the clearance on each side is 1 cm larger than the size of the frame.

Step 5 With the help of self-tapping screws, the frame jumper is attached to the tree.

On a note! At this stage, special attention should be paid to the accuracy of the dimensions of the frame frame, since the quality of the entire partition will largely depend on this. Verticality, horizontality, size matching - all this will affect how the design will turn out.

Stage three. Thermal insulation. Lathing installation

Step 1. Mineral wool mats must be laid in the cells. If necessary, the material is trimmed with a mounting knife.

Step 2 On both sides of the frame, a plastic film is attached to it (this must be done with a stapler), after which it is spread from top to bottom.

Step 3 The crate is installed in compliance with a step of 40 cm.

On a note! If desired, the film can be fixed even at the frame assembly stage - this will simultaneously solve the problem of fixing it in the lower part of the structure.

Stage four. door frame

Step 1. With an opening size of 82x206 cm, it is necessary to install a frame of 80x205 cm there (taking into account 1-centimeter gaps on both sides). Upon completion of installation, checking the verticality / horizontality and fixing the frame to the racks, all formed gaps must be blown out mounting foam. Excess hardened foam is cut off with a mounting knife.

Step 2 Due to the fact that the frame has a width of 11.5 cm (this is a standard indicator), the open elements of the opening are blocked from washing with planed boards 60x30 mm. At the same time, special attention is paid to the fact that the vertical plane that runs along the outer edges of the boards must correspond to the plane of the outer edges of the lining.

Stage five. Finishing the sink with tiles

Finishing can be carried out both after the installation of the lining, and before it. It is important that the junction of the forcing and the end of the tile is carried out with the utmost precision and without any gaps. You can cover the floor at any convenient time.

Stage six. Clapboard lining

The installation of the lining begins from the corner and is carried out using the tongue-to-groove technology. This means that the spike of each next sheet is placed in the groove of the previous one. Fastening to the crate is carried out using iron clamps.

The last element of the lining is cut in accordance with the required dimensions, after which it is fastened with nails without hats (to avoid accidental burns) or ordinary self-tapping screws, subject to subsequent closure with pins.

Stage seven. Installation of skirting boards and platbands. Finishing the edges of the structure

Step 1. For platbands, the same lining that was used in the decoration is suitable. By means of a circular, the lining should be cut to length, and then the edges should be cleaned manual router(using a radius cutter). The vertical platband is joined to the horizontal strictly at an angle of 45 degrees.

Step 2 Skirting boards in the steam room are attached to the floor (if it is wooden) and to the racks through the lining (in those places where this can be done).

Step 3. Along the edges of the structure, vertical-type platbands must be inserted into the grooves of the walls, and then attached to the lining itself with self-tapping screws. In this case, stepped holes are made, and the heads of the twisted screws are hidden with wooden pins.

Step 4 The slats installed at the top of the structure will only perform a decorative function. They need to be attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes on it, but they will not be inserted into the grooves.

The described option is suitable for a log cabin of a bathhouse that has already been upset and matured for the required time. The compensation gap that must be left between the wall and the ceiling (3 cm) is necessary in case of a change in the dimensions of the log house itself. If full sediment has not yet occurred, the gap increases to 7-8 cm.

Ordinary boards can be used as sheathing. Both they and the lining should only be made of hardwood, since coniferous wood releases resin at high temperatures. We also note that all the bars in the frame should be treated with an antiseptic.

The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink can also be made of brick. Here it is better to use a spoon laying in ½ bricks (or, alternatively, in a whole brick). Such a design will weigh quite a lot, therefore, in order to facilitate it, you can use a hollow brick.

Stage one. Training

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare all work surfaces. The board covering is removed from the floor to the very foundation, then everything is cleaned with a wet broom. Further, the workplace is equipped good lighting, all items that are not needed in the work are taken out of the room. The contours of the structure are outlined.

Stage two. Solution

To work, you will need the following equipment:

• sieve;
• Sander;
• shovel;
• mixing tank.

Step 1. First you need to sift the sand in order to clean it from foreign objects. A sieve is constructed from a fine-mesh chain-link mesh and 4 bars. The sand is carefully sieved.

Step 3 The mixing ratio is 3:1. First, six buckets of sand and two of cement should be poured. Water is added, the solution is mixed with a shovel. This volume of solution is enough for about an hour of work.

Step 4. The solution is kneaded to the consistency of thick sour cream. At the end of kneading, it will begin to harden and shrink, but you should not add water - just stir it once every 15 minutes.

Stage three. Construction

For this step, you need the following tools:

• level;
• pick;
• trowel;
• plumb;
• rule.

Step ##DescriptionIllustration

Step 1.	The twine is pulled - it will be a guide. The solution is laid and leveled with a trowel, the horizontalness is checked. Then you need to wait a bit for the solution to seize.
Step 2	Another layer is applied on top of it and the laying of row No. 1 begins.
Step 3	The first brick with mortar applied to the end is laid on the surface and pressed against the wall. Next, the brick is tapped and leveled along the twine, the excess mortar is immediately removed.
Step 4	If a doorway is planned (and most partitions have it), then it must be set in advance. Using spacers, you should install the door frame. It is checked for horizontal / vertical, if necessary, its position is corrected.
Step 5	The brick is laid close to the box. To bind the partition to it or to wooden walls, metal strips are used: they should be bent and screwed to the side surfaces so that they (the strips) are between the bricks; you can also use reinforcing bars.
Step 6	At the end of the laying of row No. 1, the brick is broken into two parts with a pickaxe. One of these halves begins the second row. The string stretched horizontally is carried higher to make it easier to navigate. The third row begins in the same way as the first.

On a note! The dressing of masonry is prerequisite. Thanks to this, the load on the structure will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will turn out to be more durable.

1. Every five rows, steel strips or pieces of reinforcement are placed in the seams - this will strengthen the structure.
2. The structure is tied to the walls with steel strips, and auxiliary reinforcement can be used for the door frame (ideally, this should be a channel of the appropriate size).
3. The gap formed between the ceiling and the wall is filled with small pieces of bricks soaked in concrete beforehand. Pieces need to be pressed as tightly as possible to each other. All cracks are sealed with tow, also treated with cement mortar.

Video - We put a partition in ½ brick

Foam blocks (made of gas or foam concrete) are distinguished by the fact that, with a slight (compared to brick) weight, they are large, which means that the laying will be carried out much faster.

The standard blocks are 300 mm high and 600 mm long. The thickness depends on the type of room where the partition is planned, but in most cases products of 75 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm are used. The cost of foam blocks ranges from 21.5-49.5 rubles, depending on the thickness.

The laying procedure is not much different from the previous version, but there are still some differences. Below is the sequence of actions.

Stage one. markup

First, the floor and walls are prepared in the same way as in the case of brickwork. Then the cord is pulled and the doorway is marked. In accordance with the markup "dry", the first row of blocks is laid out, if necessary, trimming is performed. A grinder is suitable for this, although it is better to use a hacksaw for stone. In the absence of these tools, a simple hacksaw is used.

In place of the future structure, waterproofing is placed (roofing material is suitable) in two layers.

Stage two. Mounting

For laying foam blocks, a special glue is used, which must be diluted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Glue must be kneaded with an electric drill with a special mixer nozzle. Adhesive composition applied to the foam block with a layer of 3 mm, then the block is put in place and tapped, the verticality / horizontality is checked. Each new row of foam blocks must be shifted by about ½ of the width of the product in order to make the partition more durable.

Where the partition joins the main walls, binding is performed with pieces of reinforcement or large nails. To do this, holes are made in the walls, reinforcement with glue is inserted there by at least 50 mm. Recesses can be made in the blocks themselves, although it is preferable to place the products directly on the rods that stick out of the walls.

On a note! When the height of the partition reaches the top of the doorway, two bars of reinforcement with a diameter of 1.6 cm are laid in this place. The length of the bars must exceed the width of the opening by at least 10 cm. Blocks are laid on top of the reinforcement up to the ceiling.

Stage three. Plaster

For plaster, you can use the same adhesive solution with which the masonry was performed. If necessary, channels are created for laying communications. At the end of the plaster, the surface is dried, puttied, painted or tiled.

In some cases (if the weight of the structure is insignificant), a foam block partition can be built directly on wooden floor. Although there are some nuances here.

1. When buying blocks, you need to pay attention to the quality of their surfaces. The smoother the surfaces, the better the finish will be.
2. The dimensions of the blocks depend on the place of installation, while the density does not play any role.
3. It is advisable to purchase blocks produced using cutting technology.
4. If the foam blocks are moistened with water before work, this will increase the density of the masonry.
5. The blocks of each new row must be shifted to avoid the appearance of vertical seams.
6. It is advisable to leave a small gap between the partition and the ceiling (about 100 mm), which must be filled with mounting foam.

Video - Laying partitions from foam blocks

The steam room is rightfully considered the main room of any Russian bath, since the effectiveness of healing bath procedures depends on it. This is the reason why the steam room should be treated with all seriousness and attention.

The procedure for building a steam room can be divided into several key stages, such as:

• drafting a project;
• thermal insulation;
• construction of the furnace and ventilation system;
• final finishing;
• installation of shelves;
• door installation.

Let's consider in more detail each of the stages.

Before proceeding with the arrangement of the steam room, it is necessary to draw up a project, at least drawn by hand. In this case, one should start from the semantic “core” of the room, that is, from the stove. The fact is that each stove design has its own requirements for the area, the remoteness of the shelves, the ventilation system, etc. By the way, the total area of ​​​​the steam room should be determined based on the number of people who will be there at the same time.

Important information! The generally accepted standards for steam rooms are as follows: area - 200x240 cm, wall height - 220 cm.

With regards to windows, in this case they are not needed at all, artificial lighting will be more than enough. If there are still windows, this will entail unforeseen costs for strengthening thermal insulation. As a last resort, if there is no way without a window, it must be made small, maximum 50x50 cm, and airtight (this can be achieved using modern double-glazed windows).

Video - Do-it-yourself window to the steam room

And finally, the ventilation system. It is just as necessary in the steam room as a stove or shelves, because wood at high humidity is an ideal habitat for mold and fungi. In short, a healthy climate is also important.

Video - Ventilation in the steam room

Stage two: thermal insulation of the steam room

The main indicator of the functionality of the steam room is permanently heat, which can hardly be achieved without high-quality thermal insulation. Therefore, the process of warming is the most important stage of arrangement.

If the room is poorly insulated, then heating steam air will occur very slowly, while cooling - on the contrary, too quickly (we also recommend reading the article about window insulation). Moreover, the steam itself in this case will be of extremely low concentration.

Today, steam rooms are insulated with many materials, each of which has its own special function. In the absence of one of these materials, the quality of the insulation deteriorates significantly. This distribution of "duties" leads to the formation of a protective coating of several layers (exactly in this sequence):

• sheathing;
• vapor barrier material;
• insulation;
• waterproofing.

Any suitable material can be used for waterproofing. It should be, for example, plastic film or aluminum foil.

Thermal insulation should be carried out as follows: first, the ceiling and walls are covered with a layer of clean paper, on which a frame of timber is attached - the basis for mounting plates of insulating material. Then the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier (mainly ordinary aluminum foil), after which a second frame is constructed to finish the room with clapboard.

Important information! The ceiling must be insulated better than the walls, so the insulation is installed on it with a thicker layer.

Stage three: furnace and ventilation system

When constructing a furnace, it is desirable to use one of the following materials:

• refractory brick;
• cast iron plates;
• a natural stone.

It is characteristic that all these materials can be combined, because cast iron has excellent heat dissipation, brick effectively accumulates heat, and with the help of stone you can get steam. Such an integrated approach will allow the oven to keep warm for 14-15 hours (we are talking about a temperature of about 80ᵒС). But in this, of course, the quality of thermal insulation also plays a big role.

Separately, it is worth noting modern electric boilers that do not require the installation of a chimney. They are very convenient, they can be controlled remotely, but there are also disadvantages:

• they are sometimes unsafe;
• require complex installation.

Soapstone stoves (which are called soapstone) are also very popular now, which allows you to evenly and smoothly heat the steam room, and the heat generated in this case turns out to be soft.

Regarding the installation site of the stove, it should be the corner closest to the door - both safely and economically.

Video - Thermal insulation in the steam room

Stage four: interior wall decoration

The interior decoration of the walls of the steam room should be started immediately after the completion of the main construction work. For this, wood materials are used that are not very susceptible to elevated temperature or humidity. You can pick up a tree of almost any breed, but in most cases larch is used for the floor, and alder or linden for the walls.

Finishing work should end with careful grinding, after which the material is left in its natural form.

Stage five: installation of shelves

The construction of the steam room ends when you can enter it and enjoy the bath procedures. After finishing all the surfaces, you can proceed to a more pleasant, perhaps, stage of work - the internal arrangement.

Important information! Shelves should be made of wood that does not leave traces of sweat and resin. From this point of view, aspen is most suitable - a relatively inexpensive tree, which is also very easy to work with.

Shelves should be installed on the walls, not the floor, because this way you can save free space. But if the steam room has a very small area, then the lower shelf should be fixed to the skids, and the upper one should be equipped with a special fixation mechanism and lifted if necessary, as in a train car.

Video - Doors to the steam room

Stage six: doors to the steam room

When all the work on arranging the steam room is completed, you can proceed to final chord- installation of the door. There is an important point here: the door frame must be deliberately lowered, and the threshold must be raised. Thanks to this, heat loss will be significantly reduced, and vacationers will get rid of such dubious pleasure as a draft.

The door must perform two extremely important functions: firstly, to let people in, and secondly, not to let out steam and thermal energy. That is why it should be small, with at least a 30-centimeter threshold and a lowered box. In addition, the proximity of the door to the oven should not cause burns.

Move on. The door should not be a heat conductor, so it should be finished with wood on both sides, and the inner surface should be covered with insulation (ideally, aluminum foil). But wood is not the only material that can be used in this case, heat-resistant glass is much more popular. With it, the entrance to the steam room will look more aesthetic and even enticing, when viewed from the dressing room.

Video - How to make a threshold in the steam room

A few words about the design of the steam room. Do-it-yourself steam room device

When finishing the steam room, special attention should be paid to the future design. Below are practical tips from experts regarding the design of the steam room.

As a conclusion

That's the whole secret of arranging a steam room in a bath - if you follow all the recommendations, then the heat will not only warm, but also heal. At the same time, the heating of the body will occur quite slowly, and bath procedures will bring great pleasure. The steam room itself will heat up to the required temperature in a maximum of an hour, but it will give off its heat slowly and gradually.

A trip to the dacha is a joyful event, since there you can do a garden or landscaping, and then relax, having a steam bath, provided that it is there. We will tell you how to make a bath in the country with your own hands, demonstrate drawings, diagrams and photo instructions. You'll have to work hard, but it's worth it.

In your imagination, you probably already see how you approach the bathhouse, open the door and find yourself in a warm and cozy dressing room, and then into the steam room. Yes! This is exactly what will happen, but a little later. First you need:

• choose the right project;
• get acquainted with the stages of construction;
• purchase building materials;
• build a bathhouse and bring all communications;
• finish the interior and only then bathe.

If, after reading the introduction, you have not lost the desire to make a bath in the country, then we will continue the topic, considering all stages of construction.

Choosing a place for the construction of a bath

Often summer cottages do not differ in large sizes, but in addition to personal preferences and convenience, there are also norms that must be followed. Let's look at preferences first.

1. It would be better to put the bath on a hill, which will greatly simplify the organization of draining the water.
2. It is good when the bath is located next to a pond or river.
3. The rays of the setting sun penetrating the steam room through the window will relieve stress, but at the same time it is necessary to make sure that the entrance to the bath is clearly visible from the window of the country house. So you can watch the bathhouse being heated and the children, especially when a swimming pool is built in front of the entrance.
4. The bath can be made in the form of an extension to the house.

In order to avoid conflict situations with authorities or neighbors, the instructions of SNiP 30-02-97 must be observed. Paying attention to section 6, paragraphs 6, 7 and 8, you will find comprehensive information on the placement of the building on the site, but we will give only the numbers that you need in order to choose the best place for the bath.

Taking into account the fire safety measures for buildings located on opposite sides of the passage, the distances indicated in the table must be adhered to:

The material from which load-bearing and enclosing structures are made		The distance, which directly depends on the material used in the construction of the building
	The same buildings using wooden elements
	Wooden and similar structures

As for the requirements regarding distances to the neighboring site, they are also unambiguous.

It is also important to take into account the requirements for the location of buildings on your site - from garden house shower, bath and sauna must be at least 8 m away.

By the way, failure to comply with these rules can lead to litigation with a neighbor and the demolition or transfer of the bathhouse to another place.

Bath project

When choosing a bath project, it is important to consider the material from which it will be built. There can be several types of structure:

1. Frame bath.
2. Wooden bath (from timber or rounded logs).
3. Bath made of brick, stone or blocks.
4. Arbolite building.

Having decided on the material, when choosing a project, make sure that it suits you according to all the criteria.

Material selection

So, having chosen a suitable project, in accordance with its requirements, you need to prepare building materials.

• Most often, summer residents prefer to build frame buildings, as they are the cheapest and successfully cope with their task. In addition, due to the low weight of such a design, the foundation also does not have to be spent much.
• The most favorite buildings are wooden. The cost of such a building will be somewhat higher, and the foundation will need to be made stronger, unlike frame structure. Built in the country is good wooden bath does not need warming.
• Stone and brick are rarely used to build a bath in the country. This is due to the fact that such a heavy structure needs a strong foundation, and the walls freeze during long absences and such a bath needs to be warmed up for a long time. The exceptions are buildings made of foam and gas blocks. The requirements for the strength of the foundation are not so high, the walls turn out to be warm, but it is important to consider that this building material is very hygroscopic, so it must be protected from moisture.
• Arbolit is also often used in the construction of baths. Walls can be monolithic or built from blocks. The structure is warm, durable and inexpensive.

Wall materials

Since our article deals with several possible options for using various building materials, we will consider them separately.

Frame structure

The walls of such a bath are made in a lattice structure. For the walls of the frame you will need:

• Timber of various sections, the dimensions and quantity of which are indicated in the project.
• Insulating material with high thermal insulation qualities for filling the frame. Again, you need to adhere to the requirements regarding the use of one or another insulating material, but here you need to take into account that the documentation often indicates one type of material, but not all possible ones. If the specified material is too expensive, then you can refer to the forums to clarify what is acceptable in your area.
• Material for sheathing the frame outside and inside. Most often used for exterior cladding of a building OSB boards, edged board, siding or block house, while lining is used from the inside.

wooden bath

For the construction of walls can be used:

• Natural debarked tree.
• Cut beam.
• Profiled bar.
• Glued beam.
• Round log.

Bath made of brick, stone or blocks

The walls of such a bath can be made of the following materials:

• Brick (ceramic or silicate).
• Stone (quarrystone, limestone, shell rock).
• Block (foam, slag, gas blocks).

Arbolite building

If it is possible to purchase sawdust inexpensively (or maybe you have your own), then at home it is quite possible to make wood concrete blocks pretty high quality. Also, this building material in the form of finished blocks is on sale. Walls are built very quickly. Another advantage of using wood concrete is the possibility of manufacturing monolithic walls by pouring cement-shaving mortar into the formwork.

Materials for the ceiling in the bath

The dressing room and the rest room are warm rooms, so it is recommended to use materials with low thermal conductivity - aspen, linden or alder.

For sheathing the ceiling of the steam room, it is preferable to use wooden lining, as it is able to withstand high temperatures. Pine or spruce products should not be used in this room, when heated, resin begins to stand out from this wood. It is also impossible to hem the ceiling with sheets of fiberboard and chipboard, since moisture and high temperature contribute to the release of fumes that can harm human health.

Materials for insulation and vapor barrier

It is advisable to perform external insulation only if the bath is heated. It is unlikely that someone will do such a luxury in the country, so we are considering materials for the internal insulation of an unheated bath.

The frame bath does not need to be insulated, since the thermal insulation is laid inside the structure. In a wooden bath, you need to make a crate into which a heater is inserted. Other types of baths need insulation made using more complex technology.

To perform the work, mineral wool is required, the thickness of which is selected depending on the material used in the construction of the bath and climatic conditions. Usually a layer of at least 50 mm is laid. Insulation can be in the form of mats or in rolls.

As for vapor barrier, it is important to know that this is not waterproofing. Each has its own purpose. Even an inexpensive vapor barrier will do its job, while waterproofing, used for other purposes, can nullify all the work.

What you especially need to pay attention to is not to get a fake.

Decoration Materials

Since we are talking about a bath in the country, we will not talk about chic types of finishes. The best option would be to use wood: lining or similar facing materials.

Concerning exterior finish, then it can be any material that is used for sheathing houses. If the bath is made of rounded logs, then it would be unreasonable to close the beautiful facade something else.

Bath construction

Now we will consider how the construction of a bathhouse in the country with our own hands can be done. It is clear that the work will be easier to do with an assistant, which may be one of the family members. At the initial stage of the work, some instructions can be given to children. Of course, they will not do everything and not as quickly as we would like, but if they feel that they are needed, then they will then be more careful about the bathhouse built with their participation.

But let's be realistic, small children will help a little, and if you build it alone, it will be a long-term construction, especially since some work cannot be done alone. As you read this article, you'll see when and how many helpers may be needed - this will help you plan everything.

markup

So, the plan has been chosen, the location has been decided, now let's start marking on the ground. To do this, in accordance with the scale specified in the project, transfer the contour of the bath to the area. In the place where the corner of the building will be, a long peg (or reinforcement) is hammered, and the lengths of two walls located at an angle of 90 ° are measured from it. The next pegs are hammered there, and the distances of other walls are measured from them. Finally, the last - the fourth peg is hammered.

Now, when there is a designated perimeter of the future structure, you need to check how straight the corners turned out. To do this, it is necessary to perform a check along the axes - measure the distance from one peg to another. The received data must match. If this is not the case, then the plane must be shifted, "shortening" the longest axis. After that, it will be necessary to check not only the axes, but also other dimensions, and, if necessary, correct them again.

If the foundation is tape, then a slight discrepancy can be left, but for a pile or column foundation the markup must be very precise.

So we marked the dimensions of the bath in accordance with the design data. Further marking is performed depending on what the foundation will be. More details about this can be found in the table.

Foundation type	Where is it applied and how is markup performed
	This type of foundation, due to its high cost, is done only in cases where it cannot be dispensed with. Marking is carried out according to the size of the building or a little more when it is necessary that the foundation be wider and longer than the bath.
Tape	A very common type of foundation. Relatively inexpensive and durable. The marking is carried out in such a way that the tape filled with concrete passes along the perimeter of the building and under the walls.
Columnar	This type of foundation is also often found. Mainly used mounting on it wooden buildings. Depending on the dimensions of the bath, the marking is carried out according to the number of manufactured supports.
Screw	It is believed that this type of foundation is new, but this is an erroneous conclusion based on the fact that it has recently been used in civil engineering. The screw foundation has stood the test of time, as the military has long begun to use it. The advantage of the foundation device on screw piles is the speed and ease of installation. The second advantage is that there is no need to carry out earthworks, so the site will remain clean. In addition, it can be used to build a bath even on a site with a significant slope. The marking is done according to the number of piles and no deviation to the side is allowed.

Weigh all the pros and cons, and then make the final decision regarding the choice of the type of foundation.

Foundation pouring

The manufacture of a shallow strip foundation is acceptable under the following conditions:

1. The soil in the area is dry and loose.
2. The groundwater level is quite low.
3. AT winter period frosts are not very strong.
4. The buildings are not heavy.

Do not try to guess the type of foundation for a heavy structure. If you are not sure, then invite specialists who, after performing the appropriate checks, will give an accurate answer.

Let's start with a simpler and most commonly used shallow foundation for a bath.

• We have external markings, now we need to make internal ones, taking into account the fact that the width of the foundation must be at least 50 cm, and must protrude beyond the building by 5-10 cm on each side. Therefore, if the bath is 3 × 4 m, then the largest size along the outer perimeter will be 3.2 × 4.2 m.
• It is important to take into account the installation location of the furnace and at the same time make the foundation for it.
• For convenience, in the corners you need to install wooden structures similar to benches. They need to be set in the same plane along the height of the future formwork and a measuring cord should be attached to them. How to do this is shown in the illustration.

• Need to remove the fertile upper layer soil and remove it to the side, then dig a trench, the clay from which can then be used as backfill.
• As for the depth of the trench, in some cases it can be 35 cm. Much depends on the depth of freezing and the soil itself. It is necessary to dig to a solid clay layer and in no case stop on the ground. Therefore, most often the depth is in the range of 50–60 cm.
• The bottom of the trench must be leveled by checking its horizontal level.
• Now it's time for the sand bed. It is necessary to pour a layer of sand into the trench, at least 15 cm thick, moisten with water and compact well. To do this, it would be more convenient to use a vibrotamper, but it can also be done manually, using a heavy bar with handles nailed to it.
• The next layer is poured with crushed stone of the middle fraction and also carefully rammed.
• Now it's the turn of the formwork, the height of which should reach the stretched cord. It can be made from improvised materials or wood harvested for other purposes, since this temporary structure will be dismantled shortly after pouring the foundation. Finished shields must be installed along the trench and well fixed, otherwise the poured concrete may move them.

• In order not to stain the boards, and so that the concrete does not flow out through the cracks, the formwork is closed from the inside with plastic wrap, which must be fixed with a stapler or thin nails.
• Now you need to make a frame of metal or plastic fittings, fastened with knitting wire.

• The fabricated frame should not reach the edges of 5 cm. It must be carefully lowered into the trench so as not to tear the film protecting the formwork. To raise the frame above the bedding, you need to put pieces of granite under it, since, unlike brick, it will not crumble under the influence of moisture.
• If any communications pass through the foundation, then you need to leave holes for them, which will help the sleeves, as done in the photo above. The same applies to the manufacture of products.
• Plan your time in such a way as to pour the foundation with concrete in a day, since breaks are not allowed here - then the tape will not be monolithic. It is convenient to deliver the concrete with a mixer and pour it directly from it, otherwise it will have to be kneaded in a concrete mixer, on the basis that M400 cement will need 1 bucket, sand - 3, crushed stone (or gravel) - 5 buckets.
• The foundation poured with concrete should be compacted with a vibrator or bayoneted. After shrinkage, you need to add a little concrete and level the site. If a foundation is being made for a wooden house, then foundation bolts must be fixed in uncured concrete.
• Not earlier than a week later, you can remove the formwork.

It should be remembered that concrete has not yet gained full strength, so it must be handled with care or wait 28 days, and only then build a bath.

Video: building a foundation for a bath

Wall masonry

When building a bath from blocks, stone or brick, you need to level the foundation with a cement-sand mortar, and lay a roofing material folded in half on it. Masonry starts from the corners. Having installed the first blocks on the cement-sand mortar, you need to make sure that they are in the same plane, and only after that a twine is stretched along the upper outer edge, which serves as a guide for laying a number of building materials.

When laying the next row, the masonry mixture may differ: cement-sand mortar a wall of brick and shell rock is being erected, while mixtures recommended by the manufacturer are used for laying lightweight blocks.

Having installed the jumpers above the doors and windows, you need to install the formwork on top and make an armored belt, fixing the foundation bolts in it for the subsequent fastening of the Mauerlat board. After the concrete has hardened, it will be possible to proceed with the manufacture of the roof.

The construction of the frame of the bath

The basis of such a bath is a wooden frame, which is insulated and sheathed. various types finishing materials. Need to choose quality materials and observe the sequence of their installation.

For the manufacture of the frame, boards from well-dried larch, aspen or linden will be needed, because this wood has low thermal conductivity. The manufactured shields will be resistant to deformation.

On the foundation, a frame of the lower trim is made from a beam of 100 × 100 mm. At the ends of the bars, you need to make cuts in half the thickness and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. If bars 50 × 100 mm are used, then the frame can be assembled end-to-end using metal corners. The dimensions of the bar used depend on the type of foundation, design and dimensions of the bath.

• At the next stage, the end strapping board is installed, and the floor logs are attached to it right next to it. A beam of 50 × 100 mm is used.
• On the opposite side, the logs are cut in such a way that a second end strapping board can be installed.
• The logs must be arranged so that the prepared insulation becomes close between them, then the end strapping boards are nailed.
• The wall frame is assembled from a 50 × 100 mm beam, and then installed in its place, all parts are fastened into a single structure.

To ensure the vapor barrier of the frame bath, you need to use a vapor barrier film, which will avoid the accumulation of moisture inside the frame. As thermal insulation material mineral wool or fiberglass is used. They are able to provide a high level of sealing without disturbing the natural air exchange.

It is preferable to carry out insulation and wall cladding after the installation of the roof. This approach will protect the wood and insulation from getting wet.

Floor

If in the frame bath it remains only to insulate the floor and lay the floorboard, then for other buildings you will have to work harder - you need to install logs, make a subfloor, fix the vapor barrier, lay insulation, perform waterproofing, lay the floorboard, which will have to be changed in a few years. Considering that the dacha in the dacha will not be thoroughly dried due to lack of time for this, because after the weekend it will be necessary to quickly leave for the city, then if there is such an opportunity, it would be preferable to make a concrete floor and tile it. Wooden shields are laid on it, which can be taken out to dry in a barn and calmly go home.

It is clear that for a frame and other structure installed on a columnar or pile foundation, only a wooden floor with insulation is acceptable. This process is described in more detail in the next two videos.

Video: how to install floor beams, make insulation and provide a drain in the bath

roof construction

Above any bath there should be a reliable roof, but the options for creating it can be different. In any case, you need to lay waterproofing, and then thermal insulation, think about the type of roof and the choice of a suitable roofing material. Without waterproofing, steam will freely enter the attic, and, settling on beams and rafters, will contribute to their rapid destruction. In addition, formed on roofing material condensate will begin to drain onto the insulation, which will affect the properties and durability of the latter.

The type of terrain has a great influence on the choice of the type of roof, since the technical parameters of the structure must be taken into account.

• So, in a holiday village, especially when it is located among tall trees, you can safely make a high gable roof.
• If the cottage is located in the steppe zone, blown by all the winds, then the slope for the roof must be made minimal.
• With small sizes of baths and minor snow loads, the roof can be made single-pitched. The same roof is most often made in a bathhouse attached to the house.

Video: how to make a bath roof

Interior and exterior decoration

Although wood is most often used for interior decoration, not all wood is suitable for this purpose. It is necessary to choose the right material, especially for a steam room, in which a high temperature is created with high humidity. It should be said right away that pine lumber, as well as fiberboard, chipboard and linoleum, cannot be used to finish this room. Therefore, you need to purchase lining made of larch or linden.

As for other premises, the conditions there are not so extreme, therefore there are no such high requirements for the material used - what cannot be used in a steam room is perfect for a rest room and dressing room. Pine lining in the dressing room will exude a pleasant aroma and create a feeling of comfort.

Finishing a wooden and brick bath with clapboard is almost the same. First, a crate is attached to the wall, and a lining is already attached to it. An exception is the steam room, in which there should be heat-reflecting foil under the crate.

Exterior decoration is carried out not only to make the bath beautiful, but also to protect it. To finish the bath from the outside, you can use the following materials:

• Imitation of a bar.
• Siding.
• Clapboard.
• Block house.
• Facade tiles.
• Dye.

You just have to choose the right material and finish the facade.

Ventilation in the bath

Sometimes there is still such an opinion that good ventilation in the steam room is useless, since all the heat comes out through it, and it is made very weak, or it is completely absent. But there is another extreme, when the ventilation process is not controlled, and the heat escapes from the bath. In such a steam room at the top it is very hot, and the legs are cold.

In fact, while taking bath procedures, the air in the room should be updated 2-3 times per hour, but this is not enough, since ventilation must be done correctly. Usually the inlet is located at the bottom near the boiler, and the exhaust is under the ceiling on the opposite side. While the steam room is warming up, the exhaust window is closed. Then it opens, and warm air begins to rapidly leave the room. As a result, the steam room becomes cool and uncomfortable. You can make ventilation, as in the diagram.

Such a device allows you to hold back warm air under the ceiling, and half-cooled air comes out through the hole located below (B), so it will be comfortable in the steam room. When the steam room needs to be thoroughly ventilated, the top vent (A) opens.

In addition to the steam room, ventilation is necessary in every room of the bath. In order not to waste precious heat in vain, you can make it possible to close the ventilation openings during those hours when there is no need for ventilation.

Furniture

Canopy and all furniture for country bath can be made by yourself. If there is no desire to make something else, then the network has many offers for the sale of everything you need to give.

With a strong desire to save on furniture, you can review old stocks. Maybe there is something that needs to be repaired, but does not get around to it? After a little restoration, such furniture can last a long time. The main requirement is not to use chipboard furniture, as this material will deteriorate very quickly from high humidity.

Scheme

Photo: original baths

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If you have your own piece of land, then one of the objects can be a do-it-yourself bath. Projects, photos and features of construction work are presented on our website. For construction, you can choose any interesting option or project from our review.

So, in order to build a quality building, you need to consider the following points:

• pick the perfect project
• think over each stage of work;
• purchase suitable material;
• plan all communications;
• important point is the interior decoration.

A beautiful bathhouse on the site can be not only a functional building, but also a luxurious element of landscape design

To make the bath correctly and correctly choose the place of its placement, you need to adhere to all the norms of SNiP. Important attention should be paid to the material for the construction of the building. The choice of location must be made taking into account certain distances in relation to other objects.

Before building a bath, consider the features of the site: design, climatic conditions and soil characteristics features of the local landscape area and soil properties. If the territory is uneven, then it is better to build on an elevated area, as this will ensure optimal water flow. Do not install such a building on sandy soil. In any case, the foundation should be strengthened. The harder the soil layer, the better. Most often, the construction of such buildings is planned on the leeward side of the main buildings. This placement protects from heavy rainfall.

• often used and budget wood concrete. At the same time, the building is warm and durable.

Bath from a bar

How to build such buildings depends on the material options. Projects can be carried out from the following materials:

• natural wood;
• edged timber;
• glued beam;
• profiled timber;
• rounded log.

There are several ways to build a bath with your own hands. A simple version can be seen in the video:

Most often, construction is carried out with the help of rounded logs and timber. A log bath is a simpler option than rounded logs. is a cheaper material than logs. The construction of the timber is carried out using.

When deciding how to make a building out of timber, you must follow some rules. Such construction refers to light structures, so you can use a shallow or shallow foundation.

How to properly and what kind of foundation to make depends on the type of soil. For clay and marshy soil, the columnar option is not suitable. In this case, or are used.

Before deciding how to lay the timber, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing. To do this, a layer is distributed on the surface of the foundation, and a sheet of roofing material on top. Then the second layer is applied. And the boards adjacent to the foundation are treated with antiseptic solutions. So we build a bath, regardless of whether it is small or large. A common version of construction work is a small bath from a half-beam.

When deciding how to build a sauna yourself, you must first choose high-quality wood. The material is most often harvested from December to March. Blanks 150×150 or 100×150 are made from felled trees. At the same time, they must be cleaned of bark. It is important to inspect the material before construction work. It should not show signs of decay or cracks. The wood should be smooth and even. When choosing bars, drawings and dimensions must be prepared in advance. In this case, the purpose of the material is important, for example, a floor made of edged boards. At self erection need to know how step by step construction and ways of connecting logs 3x4 or 4x4.

It is important to know how to install 50x150 boards on edge, as well as options for increasing the length. There are such connection options as in the paw and in the oblo. For a structure made of profiled timber, the oblo method is suitable, in which the connection is made when creating lock grooves.

Frame bath in the country

Consider a variety of projects on . The walls are lattice structures. For the walls you will need:

How to build such a structure depends on the main project. This construction technology has many advantages. This is a high installation speed and low labor intensity. According to the reviews - this is an economical construction. The finished building is characterized by rapid heating of the premises. A mini bath or even a 4x6 or 6x6 design does not require prolonged shrinkage. There is also a large selection of materials, both for interior and for exterior finish. Can be used different option foundations, for example, tape or on piles.

How to make such a design demonstrates a photo report, where the photo shows detailed diagram and features of the construction of such buildings. Such structures also have certain disadvantages. First of all, careful thermal insulation of such structures is required. Also, such structures have a short service life. Depending on the projects: 3×4, 2×4 or 3×5, drawings are selected. The finished project must contain working drawings with correct assembly constructions, with engineering communications and specification of materials.

We build a bath with our own hands: a brief description of the stages of construction

Any construction of a bath in the country requires careful planning. Before starting construction, it is necessary to mark the site. To do this, you need a project, according to which marks are made on the ground. Where to start marking out the dimensions depends on where the corner of the building is located. This place is reporting from scratch. In this case, a peg is hammered, and the lengths of the sides are measured from it. Then compact pegs are installed and other walls are also measured.

The design of the bath and the dimensions are indicated in accordance with the project data. After that, the markup is made depending on the . When building a bath with your own hands from stone, brick or blocks, you need to level the foundation. At the same time, the roofing material is laid, and then on top.

How to build a building will depend on what material it will be built from - from boards or from. Specialists can show installation features. Useful videos can be found on YouTube.

If used brickwork, it should start from the corners. At the same time, the first blocks are placed on the cement mortar. They must be in the same plane. If you don't know how to do this correctly, use a twine as a guide.

In the video below you can see step-by-step display construction work:

After installing the jumpers above the windows or doors, it is mounted, and then an armored belt is made. Foundation bolts are attached to this part. A simple or panel structure involves the construction of a wood frame. This element is sheathed and insulated various kinds finishing materials. To make the frame, boards made of aspen, linden or larch are used, since these options are characterized by low.

Wooden strapping from a bar is made on the foundation. At the same time, cuts are made at the ends of the bars and fastened to each other with self-tapping screws. For small bars, metal corners are used.

We note the main stages in the manufacture of the frame base:

Any sauna is exposed to high humidity, so the steam room is treated with a vapor barrier film. This will protect against the accumulation of moisture from the inside. Fiberglass or mineral wool can be used as a heat-insulating material. Such options provide an excellent level of sealing. Insulation and wall cladding is carried out after the installation of the roof. This approach will protect wood and insulation materials from getting wet.

Particular attention should be paid. Before choosing equipment for the bath, you must complete construction works. The finished building is equipped with furniture and all necessary equipment. A rustic bath can be made from various materials, but not from the croaker.

Do-it-yourself foundation for a bath: step by step instructions

How to build bath building depends on the type of foundation used. It is worth noting the following options:

• slab foundation is not often done. It is suitable for massive and complex buildings. The markup is made according to the dimensions of the building or a little more;
• you can make a strip foundation for a 4 × 4 bath with your own hands. In this case, the marking is done so that the tape runs along the perimeter of the building;
• columnar is used for mounting wooden structures. Depending on the dimensions 3×4, 3×5 or 3×6, the marking is made according to the number of supports;
• . The advantage of this option is the ease of installation. With its help, installation on the foundation is possible even with an inclined section. Marking is carried out according to the number of piles.

It is even possible to build without a foundation. A shallow strip foundation can be used when the soil is hard and dry and the level is low. groundwater and the buildings are not very heavy. The shallow version is the simplest. Here are the main points to consider:

How to install screw foundation can be seen in the video below:

Bath with a shower in the country: how to bring and drain water

Exist different ways how to equip a shower inside the bath with your own hands. There is even a dedicated step-by-step guide. The photo report demonstrates different options for installing a shower. The easiest option for cooling is to mount a simple wooden bucket on the wall. Water can be poured there through a water pipe with a tap. In this case, no special heating is required. In the photo below you can see a shower with hydromassage jets. In this case, it is necessary to consider water heating, as well as pressure using pumping equipment.

The shower does not require a large area, it is enough to allocate a little space in the dressing room. Necessarily . It is necessary to equip the drain for the bath. You can also make an outdoor shower inside the bath. In this case, you do not need to equip a separate booth in the yard. Even in an already built building, you can find a corner for a washing room. But at the same time, you will need to build a drain in the bath.

Do-it-yourself instructions for building a bathhouse roof

When building a bath, you need to figure out how to mount the roof. The stages of such construction can be seen below:

Options for creating a roof may be different, but in any case, you need to consider waterproofing and thermal insulation. Without waterproofing, steam will pass into the attic, and settle on the rafters and beams. In this case, condensate can drain onto the insulation, which will affect the durability of the material. It is important to take into account some features of the buildings:

Organization of the internal equipment of the bath in the country

An important point is the arrangement of the interior. A variety of indoor photos will help you decide how to make the interior inside. Any projects should start with the installation. This design will reduce the concentration of hot air.

After the construction is completed, it is also done outside with your own hands. Another important point is . With insufficient ventilation, electrical heating will cause a decrease in oxygen levels.

It is necessary to remember about constant temperature control. Mercury thermometer must not be installed. Better buy a bath thermometer. To control the humidity is used -.

The interior decoration deserves special attention. by the most suitable material is wood. A good solution and an economy option is lining. Wall decoration should be done in pastel colors. It is worth considering the floor in the bath.

Step-by-step instructions include the stages of finishing work, as well as the layout of lighting and ventilation. should be of good quality. Also consider bathroom accessories. Walkthrough also provides for the arrangement of good sound insulation.

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