Hello blog readers Traveler's Diary. As I promised, we start the report about building a house from SIP / SIP panels. We will tell and show from our own experience what kind of technology it is, its pros and cons, how a house is assembled from SIP / SIP panels ... And of course we will share whether it is possible to build inexpensive house from SIP / SIP panels in just a month. We will try to meet the construction of a two-story house with an area of 180 sq.m. with a foundation, a roof and windows in 2 million rubles... And in the next article we will leave a review about the company building our house - THERMOVILLE (TERMOVILLA).
CONSTRUCTION COMPLETED!
But finished projects houses from SIP / SIP panels did not suit us on any site. Something always turned out to be wrong: area, layout, design, cost ... As a result, a schematic plan was drawn up independently and transferred to construction company to develop an individual, not a finished project.
The result was a project of a house measuring 10 by 9 meters with full two floors, with total area 180 sq.m and a living area sufficient for living big family with three children. On the ground floor there is a boiler room, an entrance hall, a bathroom, a kitchen, a living room and a bedroom. On the second floor there is a hall, a bathroom and three bedrooms. Plus an attic.
Before the start of construction of the house, electricity was supplied to the site, a building permit was obtained, a sewer septic tank was half-buried and a test screwing of the piles was carried out ... Construction is scheduled for the period from early April to early May.
Well? Are we starting to build a house from SIP / SIP panels?
1 day. pile foundation
A team arrived at the site with three-meter piles for the foundation and a small tractor to screw these piles. Piles are treated with a special anti-corrosion compound. From morning to afternoon, all 25 foundation piles were installed. The piles are cut to level at a height of 40-70 cm from the ground (depending on the unevenness of the site). Cement mortar was poured inside the piles, and head supports were welded on top, on which 200 mm foundation strapping beams will be attached. Several higher piles were additionally fastened together with metal corners welded to them.
A start.
Day 2 Sand
While waiting for the materials and the main team that will build the house from SIP / SIP panels, I started sanding. At the base of the piles under the entire area of the foundation, a geotextile was laid and a layer of sand was covered. These activities have several goals: keeping the foundation dry, preventing plant growth, and protecting against mice and insects.
It took me a lot of time and effort on my own. Finished by lunchtime.
3-4 day. check in
In the morning, a change house, rented for a month, was brought and installed by a KAMAZ-manipulator. A team of three also arrived. "Amenities" are equipped near the change house)
In two days, two trucks of building materials were unloaded and placed on the site: lumber treated with the Senezh antiseptic and a factory "house kit" made of SIP / SIP panels cut according to the construction project. From the highway to the site, the materials were reloaded onto the manipulator and fumbled on it, since the trucks could not get to the site.
After unloading building materials, preparations began for tying the foundation with a bar. I dug a small trench under the foundation for sewer pipes so as not to squirm under the finished house ...
Day 5 Foundation strapping
The binding of the foundation consists in laying 200 mm beams on the pile heads and a roofing felt gasket, leveling and fastening the beams to each other and to the head beams with huge self-tapping screws - "grouse".
After the completion of the piping of the pile foundation, the "basement" SIP / SIP panels of zero overlap with a thickness of 224 mm are treated from below with a primer mastic for waterproofing.
6-7 day. Zero overlap assembly
During the sixth-seventh day, SIP / SIP panels of zero overlap (floor of the first floor) were laid. As I already said, wooden beams are used for interconnection, which are inserted into the grooves of the SIP / SIP panels on the mounting foam and fixed with self-tapping screws. The ends of all SIP / SIP panels along the perimeter were also closed with bars.
To finished floor guide bars are attached, which serve as the basis for the walls and partitions of the rooms on the first floor.
8-9 day. Assembly of the first floor
It took the team two days to build walls and partitions from SIP / SIP panels on the ground floor. External walls and almost all partitions (which are load-bearing walls) are made of SIP / SIP panels with a thickness of 174mm. Some non-load-bearing partitions are made of SIP / SIP panels with a thickness of 124mm.
By the evening of the ninth day, it was possible to walk through all the rooms on the first floor and peer through the finished window openings, but there was still sky overhead...
10-12 day. Interfloor assembly
If before that it rained, but occasionally, now, at the most inopportune moment, specific rather heavy rains have been charged every day ... (((We are worried about the dampness that has appeared in the house. The building materials are securely covered, but it is more difficult with the house ... The construction team is trying to cover the house with special "mats" if possible, but it is difficult to do this, especially with walls standing without overlapping.
Due to the rains, the installation of the interfloor ceiling was delayed for three whole days.
For interfloor overlap, as well as for zero overlap, SIP / SIP panels with a thickness of 224mm were used. This maximum thickness should provide floor rigidity as well as acceptable sound insulation.
By the end of the third day of work, the floor was completed. There was only a hole in the kitchen ceiling for the stairs to the second floor. A temporary technical ladder should appear here soon. This is what the house looks like from above:
And this is how our house under construction from SIP / SIP panels looked from the inside with an almost completed ceiling ... Watch the promised video:
Video on YouTube channel:
13-15 day. Assembly of the second floor
The rains continue, which slows down the construction a little... We are waiting for the attic floor to thoroughly cover the house with foil.
In three days, the brigade erected all the walls and partitions of the second floor. The son chose a bedroom for himself) And Lena, who came to the construction site of our house for the first time, chose a bedroom for us )
The construction of the house from SIP / SIP panels is half completed and the building is beginning to take on the look of the house we designed. And this can not but rejoice)
In the coming days, the house should have an attic, stairs, a roof, and windows. Very soon!
16-17 days. Attic floor assembly
The attic floor, which became the ceiling for the second floor, took two days.
Unlike the first and second floors, SIP / SIP panels were used for the attic floor, 174mm thick, not 224mm. For the attic, this is quite enough.
It remains only to close the ends of the attic floor panels with a beam around the entire perimeter ... The construction of our house from SIP / SIP panels is nearing completion!
Day 18 stairs
It has been raining almost every day for a week and a half. This was a real test for our nerves, and for the wet builders, and for OSB sheets Egger, from which SIP / SIP panels are made.
On that day, it started to rain in the night and went on non-stop all day... In addition, there was no electricity until the evening. Hungry and wet builders had no choice but to drive water from the roof covered with foil, wipe puddles in the house and collect stairs ...
Temporary technical stairs turned out to be surprisingly high-quality and strong - both interfloor and entrance on the porch.
19-21 days. Attic
In three days, an attic appeared in our house from SIP / SIP panels.
Mayerlats, beams and rafters for the roof were installed, as well as gables (triangular walls from the ends of the attic).
It remains to lay a vapor barrier, make a crate and cover the house with metal tiles. In addition, it is necessary to install ventilation outlets-pipes on the roof, which should arrive any day ... But the metal Entrance door and all 16 plastic windows have already arrived at the construction site.
22-23 days. door and roof
Our house under construction from SIP / SIP panels now has a metal front door!
And the house now has a metal roof!
With the advent of the May holidays, the sun came, and the rains finally ended! We first came to the site with the whole family and arranged the first barbecues on our site. This turn of events made our builders very happy: kebabs for the May holidays are good! And to finish all the work with the onset of Easter is also right!
By the way, the name of the company building our house from SIP / SIP panels can already be read on the facade. It - .
24-25 day. Completion and windows
The last two days of building the SIP/SIP house were spent completing the roofing, cleaning the house and grounds, and installing the windows.
The installation of the ventilation outlets was postponed... We were let down by the store - the ordered ventilation outlets (pipes) were brought, and the through holes were successfully forgotten in the company's warehouse. Company team THERMOVILLE completed the installation of the roof and began cleaning the house and territory.
Plastic windows were ordered by us from a third-party company, so as not to carry them 400 km from Moscow. We settled on VEKA Softline five-chamber profiles with double-glazed windows and external lamination. The installation of plastic windows was also carried out by third-party craftsmen.
What is the result? House from SIP / SIP panels from the company was built in 25 days and cost us less than 2 million rubles. This amount included: project development, delivery of building materials, pile foundation, a house box (walls, partitions and all three floors are assembled from SIP / SIP panels), a metal roof, a metal front door, plastic windows and technical stairs with all construction and installation work.
The house was created on an individual project. The dimensions of the house are 9x10 meters. Two full floors and a "cold" attic. The area of two floors - 180 sq.m. The total number of VEKA Softline plastic windows is 16 pieces. During the construction of the house, SIP / SIP panels were used from OSB-3 Egger sheets and 25F expanded polystyrene.
Our house, assembled according to the construction technology from SIP / SIP panels, is ready. Ahead - outer and interior decoration and installation of communications...
If you are looking to build a warm house for little money, consider building a house with SIP (SIP) panels. The cost of a two-story "box" 10 * 10 meters without finishing - in the region of 17-20 thousand dollars. At the same time, there is no need for additional insulation, you can move into the house immediately after construction (if communications are connected) and you can immediately start finishing.
What is a SIP panel
The construction of houses from SIP panels began in the second half of the last century in Canada. The technology is simple, the construction of a building requires very little time (from two to three weeks, depending on the complexity of the project), it can only be cheaper, and even then not in all regions.
Houses are built from heat-insulating panels, which in themselves have sufficient strength. In English, these panels are called SIP, which is an abbreviation of the following name: StructuralInsulated Panel. It translates as "Constructive Thermally Insulated Panel". It turns out, in theory, in Russian, the name of this material should sound like QFT. In reality, the usual transliteration is used (replacement English letters Cyrillic). As a result, the name "SIP-panels" is in use.
This material consists of two, between which a layer of expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) is laid. It turns out a kind of sandwich (construction "multilayer sandwich"). Hence another name sandwich panels.
When building a house, there are two types of assembly:
In our country, the first option is the most popular. wooden frame gives the building extra strength. The bearing capacity of sandwich panels and without a frame is more than enough for the construction of one-two-story private houses. But knowing that a solid wooden beam is at the heart of the house is reassuring. This technology has another plus - maintainability. In case of problems, you can remove the damaged panel and replace it with a new one, which is impossible with frameless technology.
Advantages and disadvantages
Like any technology new to our country, building a house from SIP panels has its adherents and opponents. Opponents have the most important argument - the unnaturalness of materials, the possibility of highlighting harmful substances. Indeed, these plates are composed of foam and OSB. Styrofoam is a familiar material and it is dangerous only during combustion. OSB has also been on the market for a long time, it is made from pressed large chips and wood chips. Resins containing formaldehyde are added as a binder. It is this binder that raises the most questions: formaldehyde is a strong poison and its presence in the atmosphere in large quantities causes poisoning.
Formaldehyde emissions should be controlled by SES (sanitary and epidemiological station), only safe building materials should be on sale. So if you decide to build a house from SIP panels, carefully choose the manufacturer - the quality of the material depends on his conscientiousness. The panels assembled on the German OSB company Egger ("Egger") are recognized as the highest quality and safest. Their formaldehyde emission is E1 (safe).
Extract from GOST R 56309-2014 (date of introduction 2015-07-01): “Depending on the content (emission) of formaldehyde, the boards are produced in emission classes E0.5, E1 and E2.”
At the same time, they easily tolerate high humidity, do not absorb water and do not deform.
SIP panel Egger E1 2800x625x174 (Romania) - the best option for walls. Height - 2800 mm, thickness of expanded polystyrene - 150 mm. If you prefer "standard" ceilings with a height of 2.5 meters, then you should purchase Egger E1 2500x1250x174
The German Glunz Agepan panels are also good, but few people use them. If speak about Russian manufacturers, then you should pay attention to the products of the Kalevala company. In production, only safe and high-quality materials are used:
1. OSB-3 Kalevala Russia E1 emission class;
2. Glue - TOP-UR (Russia);
3. Expanded polystyrene - PSBS - 25C Knauf (Russia).
Speaking about the advantages of building from SIP panels, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the technology has been thoroughly developed. Panels are produced for various elements of the house: external walls, partitions, interfloor ceilings, etc.
Why do people build houses from SIP panels? Because such a house has solid advantages:
- Light weight, which saves on the foundation. Under this type of buildings, pile or are ideal.
- Small heat loss, low heating costs. Expanded polystyrene is an excellent insulation, and it is clamped on both sides OSB sheets. This makes the sandwich panel house very warm.
- Low cost per square meter.
- Short construction time. A box of a two-story house can be assembled in a month.
- No shrinkage. Sediment may be at the foundation. The construction of SIP panels has no draft.
- Finishing work can begin immediately after the box is assembled.
In general, it is this set of properties that makes people choose a house from SIP panels. They build both houses of permanent residence and summer cottages for seasonal visits. So, with a limited budget, building a house from SIP panels can be a very good way out.
How to build with your own hands
There are two ways to build a house from SIP panels with your own hands:
- Buy a house kit for a specific project in a company that deals with this, and assemble it yourself. Not all firms agree to this, but many have a supervised installation service. This is when a company specialist controls your installation.
- Buy plates. cut them under the right dimensions, buy timber, all this - on your own. In this case, the entire responsibility for the quality of construction will fall on you. If you have carpentry skills or you have someone to tell you, you can choose this option.
Briefly about what a house kit is. This is a set of ready-made SIP panels, a wooden beam of the right size and fasteners for the construction of a particular house. All components are cut at the factory, numbered. When assembling, you use the resulting blocks in a certain order. The process is reminiscent of building a house from a children's designer, only you are assembling a real house.
Building a house from SIP panels when ordering a house kit is like playing a constructor
Domokomplekt is good, if everything is done accurately. This is not only about the quality of SIP panels (it must be checked separately), but also about the use dry wood (chamber drying), and about the accuracy of the cut. The edges of the panels must exactly “grapple” the timber, the two panels must meet with an expansion gap of about 3 mm - all this is achieved using precision equipment.
Reference. The expansion gap is the required distance that is left between building materials subject to expansion (dilation). If the house is built in a region with a humid climate (for example, Leningrad region), then it is necessary to leave the expansion gap in without fail, otherwise OSB will pile up. In dry climates, there is no need for a gap between OSBs.
Stages of construction: photo report
Building a house from SIP panels, like any other, begins with the selection and construction of a foundation. The pile foundation is considered optimal for light houses. That is what they do in most cases, starting building a house using SIP technology. Sometimes it is impossible to put a pile foundation:
- on hard soils that are too expensive to drill (rocks);
- on unstable soils with low bearing capacity (peat bogs);
- in the presence of cavities in the rock mass.
In these cases, they do or (usually USHP - insulated Swedish stove). They are much more expensive, but more reliable.
After the foundation has been selected and calculated, its construction can begin.
We make a pile foundation
Since the foundation of screw piles is most often made, we will illustrate its manufacture. Piles are screwed into the ground manually (if the soil and strength allow) or with the help of special equipment. The height of the heads is 80 cm above the ground, the distance between the piles is not more than 2.5 meters.
Heads are welded to the installed piles, a strapping beam is attached to them (in this example, 200 * 200 mm).
Important! The joints of the beam must necessarily be on the heads. When laying the strapping beam, do not forget to coat the locks with a protective compound (bituminous mastic) before joining.
There is no support under the joint - you can’t do that!
To protect against decay and insects, the strapping timber is impregnated with a protective compound. Roofing material was laid under the timber (on the heads) in two layers.
This stage takes from 3-4 days to a week. Depends on the complexity of the soil, you work with the equipment or twist it yourself. Now you can start laying floor slabs, but before that, we should familiarize ourselves with the methods of their connection.
How to connect SIP panels: the basic principle
When connecting the panels, a wooden dowel (beam) and or a thermal dowel (a section of the SIP panel of a smaller thickness) is inserted between them. As mentioned above, in our country, the technology using a frame is more popular, i.e. dry timber is used as a dowel. It is on this option that we will focus our attention.
The beam is inserted into the groove and fixed with self-tapping screws and / or nails, which are twisted / hammered through the OSB into the body of the beam. In the presence of a nail gun, we initially recommend grabbing the panels with “yellow” wood screws 40-50 mm long, and then punching the joints ruffed nails 50-65 mm long in increments of 10-15 cm.
As fasteners for SIP panels, you can use: "yellow" wood screws, galvanized screw nails, galvanized ruff nails. Do not use "black" hardened self-tapping screws - they break off and quickly corrode
There is always a risk that the connection will turn out to be leaky, and the entire construction technology from SIP panels is based on the thermos effect, that is, on maximum tightness. Therefore, before assembling this assembly (and any other), mounting foam is applied to the side surface of the panel. It fills all the cracks, providing the proper level of heat and moisture insulation.
Note! The figure above shows a key from a double bar. Often, such recommendations are misunderstood, and in order to save money, an unplaned edged board 50x150x6000 mm of natural moisture is purchased. After the board dries, the connection is unlikely to remain airtight.
In the manufacture of a composite wooden key 100 * 150, in our opinion, it is preferable to use three dry bars with a section of 50 * 100 mm - in this case, the connections overlap (see video below).
If we are talking about wall panels, then it makes sense to insert and fasten the dowels in advance.
The foam was applied, a beam was inserted, secured with self-tapping screws. Foam was applied to the side face of the second plate, a groove was brought under the protruding part of the beam, an expansion gap of 3 mm was set, and secured with self-tapping screws. The foam that came out during the installation process from the seams is cut off after polymerization.
This technique is repeated with slight changes in any connection of SIP panels. The diagram of this node is presented above.
After cutting the plates, it becomes necessary to remove the expanded polystyrene to the required depth. For these purposes, an electric thermal knife (cutter) for foam is used. They come in various designs, but without fail, the thermal knife must be equipped with a limiter. Only in this case you will be able to remove the expanded polystyrene exactly to the required depth. "Brute force" is fraught with the fact that cold bridges may appear at the junction of the panels.
The cutter can be made by hand, but at the same time do not forget about safety precautions when working with electric current.
First overlap
The first floor is nothing more than a floor that does not require insulation. As melted, it is assembled from SIP panels 224 mm thick and 625 mm wide. With this width of the slabs, the wooden beams are arranged in increments of about 60 cm, which is enough to withstand the load.
If you have plates with a width of 1250 mm, then they must be cut lengthwise into two equal parts.
When installing the ceiling, the panels should be laid like bricks in the masonry - with a mismatch of the seams (in a row). This is necessary so that the seams do not warp with increasing humidity.
It is on such pieces that blocks for floors should be sawn when using slabs with a width of 1250 mm
To protect the lower OSB slab from moisture, each of the slabs on one side is smeared with the same bituminous mastic. You can use other compositions with similar properties.
Assembly of SIP floor panels on the first floor
When connecting the plates, a mounting bar is laid between them (diagram in the previous paragraph). The beam is attached along the edges to the strapping (with long nails), and the edges of the plates to it with self-tapping screws.
The side cuts of the slabs (all floors) are closed with an edged board right size. We apply foam on the side surface of the plate with a snake, then attach the board, fasten it through the OSB with self-tapping screws into the end of the board.
On top of the sandwich around the perimeter, a starting (crown) board is laid, on which the wall SIP panels will rest. It is laid around the perimeter and in those places where partitions will be installed.
The crown boards are fastened with nails / self-tapping screws, but to be sure, they were fixed through with studs to the pile heads. Holes were drilled for the studs. A stud is driven into them, pulled together with bolts.
Walling
We continue to build a house from SIP panels: we mount the walls of the first floor. For this work, it is desirable to have two assistants, then the process will go faster and easier.
We put the first panel so that it “puts on” the crown board
Installation of walls begins from one of the corners. When installing, the panel with a recess in the lower part is “put on” on the installed starter board (pre-apply a layer of foam on the board or the end of the sandwich). The panel is placed, aligned vertically, attached to the starting board on both sides with self-tapping screws in increments of 10-15 cm.
Foam is applied to the side surface of the installed plate, another plate is set at an angle of 90 °. An embedded board (end bar) is pre-attached to its side part, the thickness of which is equal to the depth of the groove. Like the first, this panel is attached to the strapping starter board.
In addition, with the help of long self-tapping screws we fasten the corner.
As a rule, self-tapping screws with a length of 220 to 280 mm are used.
The length of the self-tapping screw must be such that it passes through the slab and the entire thickness of the embedded board. The installation step of this fastener is 40-50 cm.
In window and door openings, for more reliable fastening, you can install metal perforated reinforced corners. The element is optional, but gives rigidity and inspires confidence.
Exterior walls and partitions are erected immediately
The installation of partitions from SIP panels occurs according to the same principle: we fasten the crown board, partition blocks to it. They can be the same thickness as for exterior walls, but thinner ones can also be used. The decrease in soundproofing properties is compensated by the interior decoration.
To save money, partitions can be made using frame technology. Then, initially, only the frame can be installed, and its lining can be transferred to a later period. It is more convenient to do this when the roof is already installed.
In the house of SIP panels, partitions can be made frame
Interfloor overlap
To install floor slabs in the grooves of wall panels, boards are installed on foam and self-tapping screws. They create a strapping for the installation of the ceiling.
Next, lay the floor slabs. If the partitions are assembled from SIP panels, their bearing capacity is quite high and additional measures reinforcement is not required. If the partitions were assembled using frame technology, we make the upper beams reinforced: they are assembled from three boards glued together. For greater strength, the beams can still be fastened on both sides with self-tapping screws.
Floor slabs from SIP panels are laid on the finished frame. They should be no more than 625 mm wide, they must be laid in a run-up (with mismatched seams). Since the panels are narrow, there is a lot of wooden beams in the ceiling. Due to this, such an overlap can withstand loads in places where there are no floor beams.
We fasten the laid plates to the strapping beam with self-tapping screws or nails. OSB edges - top and bottom to each intermediate beam. After fixing the installation of the ceiling, we close the open side sections along the perimeter of the building according to the same principle: foam + edged board. For greater rigidity, in those places where the floor beams pass, we fasten the floor panels long self-tapping screws(220 mm) through.
This stage after the assembly of the first floor does not seem difficult. Everything is the same, only work at height, tightening sandwich panels is longer and more difficult than mounting them.
Second floor walls
The second floor in this project is because Wall panels low. Along with the outer walls, we also install partitions. Before installing the roof, a mortgage beam is installed in the upper open groove, roofing SIP panels will be attached to it.
Under the gables, standard panels will have to be cut, since the shape here is non-standard. Installation and connection of the wall panels themselves on the second floor is no different.
Roof made of SIP panels
For the roof, special sandwich panels are used. Under them, the ends of the plates are cut off at a certain angle, which is determined by the angle of inclination of the roof slope. Here, just as with flooring, you can get by with a minimum of beams, because each connection has its own beam. Therefore, the rafter system is not assembled.
For a roof made of beam SIP panels, a minimum of
Skate decoration
The roof of a small and medium-sized house made of SIP panels usually has a central ridge beam. This is where the two roof planes meet. This node can be designed in two ways (in the figures below). The first one is symmetrical. Sandwich panels are cut at an angle, the top of the ridge beam is cut at the same angle. Two planes are fastened with long self-tapping screws through the panel to the beam on both sides. Fastener installation step - 30-40 cm.
In this method, there is no usual timber between the two plates, they are connected only to the foam. After the foam polymerizes, the excess is cut off, the seam is treated with a waterproof sealant, after which a protective strip is put on the ridge - made of metal, plastic, etc. - depends on the type of roofing chosen.
It is possible to dock roofing SIP panels on a ridge in a different way. The second method does not require cutting the slabs at an angle, but one part of the panels must be longer (by the thickness of the roofing slab). The beam is still cut at an angle, the plates are joined at a right angle, fastened through with long self-tapping screws to the beam.
In this connection, embedded end bars are used. They are installed as usual - on mounting foam and self-tapping screws. To block the access of moisture to the under-roof space, the junction of the two panels is also additionally coated with a waterproof sealant.
There is an option of mounting the roof from SIP panels and without a central beam. There are options for roofs with two load-bearing beams that are not located in the center. These can be either specially laid floor beams, or partitions assembled from SIP panels or using frame technology. In the second case, it is better to strengthen the beams (make them prefabricated with glue and nails).
In this knot, the most difficult thing is to cut under right angle embedded bars. This can be done on the ground, which greatly simplifies the task. The panels are fastened through the slab with long self-tapping screws to the floor beams or embedded in the partitions. Also, two planes are fastened together at the junction point - from opposite sides with long self-tapping screws.
Roof and wall panel connections
Under the laying of roofing SIP slabs, wall slabs are cut at the desired angle. Inner part OSB is obtained above the outer. At the same angle, the foam plastic is “cut”, the edges of the embedded beam are cut. It is this part that is the most difficult if you did not buy a house kit, and you build a house from SIP panels from standard panels, cutting them to the desired size with your own hands.
How to connect wall and roof SIP panels
With the appropriate equipment, it is not a problem to cut them at an angle. Trouble cut in between OSB boards foam to the desired depth. You can choose the core with a thermal knife, and then remove the residues in a purely mechanical way. Most likely, the cut will still not work out even, so you will have to add more foam to fill in the bumps.
In the drawings, the roof overhang is also made of slabs with insulation. It's easier to implement, but it's an unreasonable expense. To save, the length of the SIP panel is taken to the intersection with the walls, and then only the beam goes (as in the photo). In this case, the beam is made composite: one part is longer by the amount of overhang, the second is shorter and ends where the wall ends.
Features of joining roofing slabs
The connection of two roofing plates occurs in the same way as the others: timber, foam, self-tapping screws. But since precipitation is possible here, it is advisable to seal all seams.
To improve the tightness, all seams on the roof are additionally coated with a waterproof sealant. First, the frozen foam is cut into a plane with the roof, then a sealant is applied. After filing the overhangs, we can assume that the construction of the house from SIP panels is completed. Insert windows / doors, bring communications and the home is already habitable. Finishing can be done immediately after installing the box.
Mice and other troubles
To save our readers from unnecessary headaches, we decided to talk about the mistakes made during the construction of one residential building. First of all, the material is intended for those who hire contractors for the construction. However, it will be useful for those who build a house on their own.
The object was built according to the program " Country house”, and local unfortunate builders acted as a contractor. Unfortunately, the future tenants did not pay due attention to the quality of the work. The result is natural - a large number of significant "jambs".
Brief information about the house:
- Date of commissioning: 2008
- Number of floors: 2
- Foundation type: tape
- Technology: frameless
- Panel dimensions: 2740x1220x224 (ceilings), 2740x1220x174 (walls), 2740x1220x145 (key for connecting wall panels)
Problems emerged rather quickly and were associated with the most important part of any structure - the foundation. The strip foundation was filled with poor quality concrete, which led to the fact that when moisture got in, it began to crumble.
In extreme cold (below -30°C), another “jamb” was revealed - a part of the plastic floor plinth in the kitchen froze through.
It was decided to remove the lower panels of the vinyl siding, remove the cold bridges at the junction of the wall slabs with the ceiling of the first floor, and sheathe the foundation with a profiled stone-like sheet.
After dismantling the lower panels of the siding, there were signs of the vital activity of field mice.
During construction, the ends of the ceiling were not covered with a board. Pieces of plywood are installed, between which there are large distances. Also note that the roofing material does not start from the beam, but from the floor level
Brief explanation of ruberoid. At the time of the construction of the house, in a particular locality, they had not heard of vapor-permeable membranes. The contractor was about to lay on the walls polyethylene film. The customer opposed this, as a result, roofing material was used.
It is perfectly clear that the mice did not waste time in vain ...
As a result, the owner of the house had to level the consequences using his modest building experience.
Related errors:
- The lower part of the first floor ceiling has not been treated with bituminous mastic.
- SIP-panels 1220 mm wide were laid on the floors of the first and second floors (they had to be cut in half lengthwise).
- Used raw wood.
- The panel for making thermospins is thinner than the styrofoam layer.
- The corners of the house are not tightened with long self-tapping screws.
- Self-tapping screws are exclusively black.
There were other errors, but we do not talk about them, because they do not directly relate to the construction technology of SIP houses.
Alas, the case discussed above is not the most difficult - the fatal option is discussed in the video below.
The conclusion is very simple: you should not blindly trust the customer. All stages of construction must be controlled personally, or seek the help of a knowledgeable person from the outside.
If contractors are involved in the construction, then the quality of their work can be assessed already at the stage of acceptance of the floor of the first floor.
Building a house from SIP panels with your own hands.
Here we give a summary of tips for building general plan sip panel houses:
Foundation selection
In the vast majority of cases, two types of foundations - on screw piles and a shallow-depth tape one, allow you to completely solve the problem of reliable support for a Canadian house in the Moscow region.
If done under easy canadian house concrete pile (below freezing depth) foundation on heaving soil, it is better using TISE technology (with widening of the lower part of the piles) and with high grillage (with a gap between the grillage and the ground).
This is correct in theory. In practice, in the Moscow region, under SIP, houses are often made bored piles without widening, and often the grillage is supported on the ground (low grillage).
Problems happen, but in most cases, light houses on such foundations stand without problems. The fact is that a powerful reinforced concrete grillage not only prevents uneven subsidence of piles under the weight of the house, but also compensates for the uneven pushing of piles by the lateral forces of frost heaving. In fact, we are dealing with a "floating" foundation of an unreasonably expensive and complex design.
Why are these foundations made? The answer is simple: "Customers love it."
Clients like a lot of things that are harmful. For example, it is beautiful when the foam protruding from the joints of the SIP panels is neatly cut off.
But you can't do it outside. Until the exterior decoration of the house has begun, the mounting foam is destroyed by the ultraviolet of solar radiation. Cropping only speeds up this process.
For a house made of SIP panels, the best pile foundation is screw. The blade of the screw pile performs the same function as the broadening of the lower part of the columnar foundation, made according to the TISE technology: they reduce the pressure of the loaded pile on the ground and prevent it from being pulled out by the forces of frost heaving of the soil.
In this way, screw pile, working as an anchor, provides a fixed point of support if the piles are screwed below the freezing depth into the bearing (!) Soil..
Due to the increased rigidity SIP structures little sensitive to seasonal ground movements. For small country houses fit the most inexpensive option- foundation on columns.
As a rule, these are small concrete blocks installed on a sand bed (necessarily at the corners of the house, at the joints of load-bearing walls and several intermediate ones).
Season for building
Construction using Canadian technology is possible at any time of the year. The perfect time to build is winter. Due to rain, construction may be delayed a little. Measures must be taken to ensure that dirt does not enter the construction site.
There may be problems with the entrance to the site. According to the weather, summer is the most favorable season for DIY construction. But in the summer, their difficulties due to the growing hype in the construction market with understandable consequences.
What to build from SIP panels
Important question: what structural elements of the house to collect from SIP? External walls are always assembled from SIP panels. The walls are surprisingly warm and smooth.
It is also desirable to assemble internal load-bearing walls from SIP panels. The issue of partitions is secondary. Partitions can be assembled from anything and at the stage fine finish. Most often, partitions are assembled from SIP panels with a thickness of 124 mm.
The use of SIP panels for the assembly of zero and attic floors or roofs is justified by their high thermal insulation capacity.
A SIP floor does not require a subfloor. Finishing floor coverings(laminate, linoleum, carpet, etc.) are laid directly on the SIP floor.
Apply SIP for assembly interfloor overlapping is possible, but not entirely advisable due to the low impact noise performance.
It is problematic to make a complex roof from SIP panels. It is possible to assemble a roof of any complexity from SIP, but a reasonable question arises - why, if the proven classic is simpler rafter system with insulation?
Which beam is suitable for joining SIP panels
It is not recommended to use a beam from boards cohesive at the construction site for joining SIP panels due to the risk of cracks. And if you can find a massive wooden beam of the required section in the markets, then only raw.
An explanation is needed here. Concepts dry or raw lumber (wood, board, etc.) is used only at the household level. In fact, all lumber contains moisture. Excessively wet wood has many disadvantages, one of which is shrinkage (change in linear dimensions).
Moisture in wood is present in 2 forms - free (capillary) filling cell cavities and intercellular space (up to 70%), and bound (hygroscopic) located in cell membranes (about 30%).
Removal free moisture (often referred to as plant sap) occurs quite quickly and easily when atmospheric drying. And without change linear dimensions and volume of wood. Only its density decreases. Very often, “dry” is called a board, from which a significant part of free moisture.
The problem is that wood shrinkage occurs later, namely during evaporation. related moisture! It is at this stage that the linear dimensions of wooden lumber are significantly reduced.
During forced kiln drying, dry-looking softwood lumber dries up to 12% in the transverse direction to the fibers!
Due to the anisotropic structure of the wood, the removal related moisture is accompanied by cracking and warping. Therefore, truly dry lumber can be distinguished from raw lumber without a moisture meter. presence of cracks.
To remove most of the bound moisture, forced (chamber) drying is necessary. Therefore dry edged there is no lumber on the market. All that is sold is a cheese cutter - freshly sawn wood, which must be dried in a chamber.
Kiln-dried lumber is expensive. In addition, after drying to the required moisture edged lumber loses the size of GOST.
Planing (calibration) eats up a few more millimeters of thickness and width, which finally makes such lumber unsuitable for joining SIP panels with a thickness of polystyrene foam of 100 mm, 150 mm and 200 mm.
It is almost impossible to find a massive beam with a thickness of 100x150 mm and 100x200 mm of chamber drying. For massive timber, especially soft drying modes are required, i.e. special equipment.
Ordinary drying chambers designed for drying boards up to 50 mm thick for further planing into moldings or for the manufacture of glued laminated timber, I-beams, furniture board etc.
And today there is no acceptable alternative to a massive rectangular beam for joining SIP 174 or 224 mm in ceilings and roofs. Wooden I-beams (I-Joist, etc.) with a height of 200 mm are rather weak for this purpose.
A massive rectangular beam 100x200mm in terms of rigidity and strength can replace a 300 mm I-beam, but you cannot put it in a 224 mm SIP panel.
LVL and glued beams are expensive. For example, the retail price of glued laminated timber 100x200 mm is 650 rubles. for m.p. (May 2013). This is more than 30 thousand rubles. per m3.
Ceilings from SIP panels
Ceilings and roofs are places where insulated classic beam (truss) structures compete with SIP structures in terms of price, manufacturability and other parameters. If a technical subtleties You are of little interest, go directly to the next paragraph.
Often, especially in small buildings, zero overlap and SIP roofing is the most optimal solution. But with large spans, traditional floors on wooden beams may be better than SIP floors.
The question is not only the price. We wrote about the problem of the docking beam in the ceilings and the roof above in the previous paragraph. There are other reasons to take into account when making a decision:
SIP panel by its design is a wall panel and is designed to carry large longitudinal loads. As a floor, the SIP panel does not have any special advantages, although it has good bending strength.
Zero and interfloor floors of the house must not only withstand certain loads, but also be quite rigid (not bend much). The floor should not "walk" underfoot. The overlap of the required rigidity is easier to assemble from beams of a suitable section.
SIP floor panels are often made narrower (usually twice - 625 mm). Dock panels on floor beams. This means that the main bearing element ceilings from SIP panels is still the same wooden beam. The rigidity of a beam is determined not so much by its cross-sectional area as by its height and shape. And 200 mm, which is dictated by the "overlapping" panel, is good for spans up to 4 meters.
If the spans are longer than the length of the SIP panel, then the strength of the overlap depends on the beams (in the places of the transverse joints of the panels, the entire load falls on the beams)! For this reason, with spans of more than 5 meters, it is better not to make SIP floors - a step of 625 mm for beams with a height of 200 mm is too big (according to SNiP, the allowable span for a beam of 200x100 mm with a step of 625 mm is less than 5 m).
If the floor beams are installed in increments of 625 mm, as in a SIP floor, then OSB-3 boards sewn onto the beams from above and below and without glued polystyrene foam will work like shelves for an I-beam! OSB-3 slabs for sheathing floor beams, unlike SIP, do not need to be sawn in strips 625 mm wide. Self-tapping screws for installation will take half as much (saving time and effort).
Overlapping everywhere should have the same thickness, and the spans covered by it are most often different. Beams can be laid out in different directions and with different steps, thereby optimizing material consumption. Usually the largest spans are over the living room. There it is desirable to make the overlap harder by reducing the step of the beams and (or) increasing their cross-sectional area.
In the manufacture of floors from SIP, this possibility will most often not be. The overlap will turn out somewhere rather weak, and somewhere - on the contrary. Cover flights over the bathroom, hallway, etc. beams 200x100 mm with a pitch of 625 mm - this is a luxury.
Features of construction from SIP panels
- If the structure has a large transverse load, then the SIP joints should lie on the support. It is undesirable to embed the support inside the panel under the skin. In this situation, SIP does not work as a monolith! Forces arise to separate the skin from the expanded polystyrene. If you jump onto a SIP floor between the joists, a large local shear load can tear the skin off the Styrofoam.
- Moreover, OSB-3 has low bending stiffness in the transverse direction. Therefore, OSB-3 is laid as a floor covering or a solid crate across beams (rafters), and not along, as it turns out in SIP floor and roof structures. Therefore, it is undesirable to use SIP with a thin skin of 9-10 mm for flooring.
- The interfloor overlap must be massive in order to protect well from impact noise. This can only be provided by massive beams.
- It is not necessary to expect that heavy rain will not fall during the assembly of the house. Until the roofing is completed, puddles form on the SIP floor, which, if not removed, can only evaporate, since all joints are sealed. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare in advance for the elimination of the consequences of precipitation. However, not everything is so terrible: OSB-3 boards are well resistant to moisture, and a short stay in water does not have a significant effect on them. Wooden floors on beams with insulation, flooring and filing from below can also be assembled in advance in the form of finished elements. But this is usually not done due to possible precipitation.
- It is not very rational to assemble a roof from SIP under a roof that does not require a continuous sheathing.
- In beam ceilings, it is not a problem to provide high thermal protection (noise insulation). The height of the section of the floor beam is determined by the calculation of the floor for rigidity and is usually not less than 200 mm. Laying insulation between horizontal beams is incomparably easier than in a wall frame. There is no problem of shrinkage of insulation in the ceilings. Therefore, beamed ceilings and rafter roofs are a serious alternative to SIP structures.
- A few words about the features of wooden frame (beam) structures. Not everything is perfect here either. Wood is a living material. This is its advantage and disadvantage at the same time. The tree smells good, it's nice to touch it. But solid pieces of wood are prone to deformation. The tree is afraid of drought and dampness. It is prone to drying out and cracking. Due to the anisotropic structure of wood, the deformation of lumber always occurs unevenly: individual beams noticeably bend, twist. This leads to deformation of the frame structure. Forced drying of wood in chambers reduces this lack of wood. Another effective solution is the use of glued lumber. An example is glued laminated timber, wooden I-beams with a web of OSB-3 (I-beam) or LVL timber (reminiscent of plywood). The disadvantage of wooden I-beams (I-beam or Joist) is their low weight. For interfloor overlapping, it is preferable to use massive beams.
- When installing beam ceilings and frame partitions from ordinary lumber, you need to be prepared for the fact that some of the beams can “go out” of the plane (especially if tightened with flooring or partition sheathing). It will take a planer and patience. With SIP floors, this problem does not arise.
- There are fewer problems with using SIP panels for the device of overlapping between the upper floor and the attic, if the latter will not be used as an attic. Often, the attic floor is assembled from wall SIP panels.
- A rafter roof for a Canadian house is always made in the case of a “cold” attic. If there is a warm room directly under the roof of a Canadian house (attic, second light), then SIP panels are often used for roofing. With this design, we immediately get both a warm roof and a finished solid crate for soft tiles.
- Conventional wall panels with a thickness of 174 mm are often suitable for roof construction. They are quite warm and durable. Not complicated Constructive decisions(purlins resting on the gables and internal walls of the attic) make it possible to ensure sufficient strength of the roof from SIP wall panels even with large slopes. In particular, wall SIP panels can be installed on a truss system:
- Laying soft tiles and other roofing materials directly on the SIP panel without ventilation air (gap) is contrary to the general principles of the roofing "pie". Bituminous tiles close the steam outlet from the SIP structure to the outside. There is information on the Internet about the unpleasant consequences of such a constructive decision.
The photo shows that the main damage to the SIP sheathing occurred in the area of panel joints. Most probable cause- penetration of steam under the waterproofing substrate of soft roof tiles from the attic through low-quality joints of SIP panels. When installing a soft roof directly on the SIP surface joints need to be sealed SIP panels from the premises. Can be adhesive tape:
This rule should also be followed when decorating SIP walls. If something obstructing the release of steam is mounted directly on the SIP casing without ventilation gap, the joints of the SIP panels should be well vapor-insulated from the side of the premises. As they say at home SIP technologies"That's why foam plus tape makes so much sense to us."
For the same reason, it is undesirable to vapor barrier SIP structures of zero (lower) overlap from below from the underground. Often this is done with bituminous mastics, as "customers love it." This does not increase the life of the floor. It is necessary to take care of good ventilation of the subfloor by installing a sufficient amount of air in the basement!
In case of poor ventilation of the underground, bituminous mastic will hide from the eyes possible problems with OSB-3 sheathing due to constant moisture, which will not allow to be taken in time necessary measures to eliminate the causes. The same thing can happen as with OSB-3 under a bituminous roof in the photo above.
For external protection Enclosing structures from moisture use special vapor-permeable membranes (wind protection), which protect the structure from precipitation and wind, but do not prevent steam from escaping from the structure to the outside.
About vapor barrier
It doesn't have to be film. Many Decoration Materials can perform the function of vapor barrier building envelopes of the house.
For example, a 12 mm thick OSB-3 board prevents the diffusion of water vapor as a vapor barrier (Sd > 2 m according to DIN 52615), so SIP panels do not need a vapor barrier.
Other examples are flexible plaster, synthetic-backed laminate, etc. Linoleum will protect the bottom floor from both steam and moisture.
The basic rule for the construction of multilayer building envelopes is that the vapor permeability of the wall should increase from the inner surface (warm room) to the outer (street). If you do the opposite, give a couple of warm room easy entry and make it difficult to exit, then it will remain in the building envelope, wetting and destroying the building material.
- assemble external and load-bearing walls from SIP panels
- interior partitions on request (frame partitions can also be installed at the finishing stage)
- assemble interfloor ceiling from beams
- make a zero (lower) overlap from SIP with a thickness of 224 mm - you will not regret it!
- if possible, assemble a simple roof over the attic from SIP, in other cases make a rafter roof
- the attic floor can be made of SIP, it can also be done along the beams.
If subsequently in some place of the joints of the SIP panels a place unfilled with foam is found, there is no need to panic. The defect is easily eliminated at any time. Enough to do small hole into the SIP panel sheathing and fill the voids with mounting foam.
If the exterior decoration of the house is delayed, it is better to hide the outer walls of the SIP house from exposure to ultraviolet radiation and slanting rains. Unprotected from sunlight mounting foam quickly collapses, the wood dries out and cracks (especially on the sunny side). Because of this, with heavy slanting rain, moisture can penetrate into the structures.
To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to seal the resulting gaps with a mounting exchange. increased attention it is necessary to give protection from rain to the joints of walls with ceilings. The easiest and most inexpensive way is to sheathe the walls from the outside with a membrane (wind protection) that does not let moisture into the walls, but releases steam to the outside.
A few notes on the operation of a "freshly built" SIP house. For various reasons, the design of the house may contain excess moisture. Most often it is bad weather. It is rarely possible to assemble a house without rain.
Excess moisture from the structure enters the air, therefore, at the initial stages of the operation of the house, increased humidity in the premises is possible. During this period it is necessary heightened attention for home ventilation.
Insufficient ventilation can lead to problems, since humidity and heat are a fertile environment for the appearance of blackness and even mold on the surface of the tree. Ventilation and treatment of problem areas with a protective compound effectively eliminates adverse effects. But it's better not to let them.
You need to be especially careful during the cold season. Despite the cold, at first the windows in all rooms must be kept ajar. Turning on the heating in a clogged room can cause the air humidity to rise so that the dew point is on the surface of the walls.
unfavorable conditions for wooden structures may occur when only part of the rooms are heated. Water vapor from warm rooms gets into the cold and condenses on the walls there. Dampness is formed with all the ensuing consequences.
Now it has become commonplace when a two-story a private house erected under the roof in a few days. It's almost impossible to build or wood - houses built according to traditional technology. Today we will talk about the construction of houses from SIP panels with our own hands - a relatively young Canadian technology, which has proven itself everywhere. In this article, we will take a closer look at all the pros and cons of a sip panel house, and find out why this technology still causes concern among many builders.
The sip panel is a pie of two OSB boards (oriented strand boards) 9-12 mm thick, between which there is a thick layer of expanded polystyrene. Elements are glued together polyurethane adhesive under a pressure of about twenty tons. This molding method makes the panels not only “warm”, but also very durable, which allows them to be used not only as walls, but also as floor and roof elements. The abbreviation SIP itself stands for the term Structurally Insulated Slab, which in itself speaks of its structure.
The dimensions of the sip panels in thickness start from 68 and end with 244 mm and are selected depending on the type of construction and the climate of the area. For the exterior walls of the house, as a rule, a panel with a thickness of 174 mm is chosen. dimensions such panels are 250 (280) cm in height and 125 cm in width. But, as a rule, the manufacturer can produce a panel according to the dimensions required by the customer.
The density of sip panels is low, which means that two people can cope with their installation without the use of special equipment. The panels are connected using a beam 80 mm thick (or a double beam 2x40 thick), which is inserted into specially selected grooves of the sip panels and fastened to them with self-tapping screws. The width of the beam should be equal to the width of the sample in the panel. So, with the help of inserts, all panels are connected to each other.
Pros and cons of houses from SIP panels
For more than 50 years of experience in operating houses built using Canadian technology around the world, we have managed to collect a lot of feedback, summarize all the information and formulate the advantages of houses from sip panels.
Despite the large number of advantages, during the entire period of operation of such houses, certain disadvantages of houses made of sip panels have been revealed, many of which are myths and conjectures. Let's talk about this in more detail and dispel some myths.
Installation instructions for houses from SIP panels
As we have already figured out, SIP is a finished element produced at the factory according to standard sizes, or according to customer sizes, so building a house comes down to assembling finished elements as a designer according to the developed instructions for each specific building.
The whole technology of building a house from sip panels consists of the following typical steps:
- foundation device;
- strapping installation;
- installation of the floor of the first floor;
- assembling the walls of the first floor;
- installation of the second floor ceiling;
- assembling the walls of the second floor;
- attic and roof installation.
If you are building cottage, then the installation of the ceiling and walls of the second floor is excluded. So, let's look at each step separately.
Foundation and strapping
For SIP houses, it is recommended to use light foundations, since there is no need and economic feasibility in heavy monolithic foundations. As a basis for such buildings, either , or a bored foundation due to ease of installation, low price, and no need to bear heavy loads. We will talk about them in the future.
The dimensions of the pile field and the number of piles are selected individually depending on the project. The depth of installation of piles is selected depending on the depth of soil freezing, characteristic of the area. As a rule, piles are installed to a depth of 1.8-2.4 m.
After installing the piles, they make a strapping from a bar or metal profile. Pile binding is a ready-made base that connects all the piles into one single structure, on which the basement is mounted.
As a strapping of metal piles, as a rule, a beam of 100x150 or 150x150 is chosen, which is laid along the perimeter of the structure on piles using the “thorn in the groove” method and attached to the pile heads with anchors M10x210 (or M10x260, respectively), or capercaillie M10x80 (M10x100) from under the bottom of the head.
The installation of the strapping must be approached with special attention, since it is the zero level of the entire structure, and the accuracy of the installation of the entire house will depend on the accuracy of its installation. All strapping beams must be treated with a special refractory impregnation, and also waterproofed with sheets of roofing material at the points of contact with the pile heads.
Installation of the first floor ceiling
The basement in houses made of panels is structurally similar to conventional wooden floors- the load from the beams is transferred to the foundation of the building, but not mineral wool with waterproofing and vapor barrier is used as a heater, but ready-made panels. There is also a difference in installation - beams and sip panels are mounted in series, like a designer. Consider the installation process in more detail.
Laying of panel elements starts from the corner of the building. The next panel in a row is attached to the end groove of the panel using a double bar 2x40x200 with wood screws 3.5x40 mm with a pitch of 150 mm. A double bar along the length is selected equal to the width sip panels. Before installation, all panel grooves are additionally sealed with mounting foam. Thus, the entire series of overlap is formed.
After that, a double beam 2x40x200 long is mounted in the side groove of the entire row (previously filled with foam), equal to the length of the entire row and is similarly fastened to the panel with self-tapping screws. Thus, a rigid lag construction with insulation is obtained, capable of withstanding significant loads.
The following rows of sip panels are similarly attached to the double longitudinal beam according to a pre-approved scheme. After the installation of the ceiling is completed, a beam 40x200 is also mounted in all external grooves of the panels.
Assembly of walls from SIP panels
It is important to note that the strapping beam must be mounted with a 12 mm indent inside the building (OSB thickness), so that after the walls are installed, their outer part is in the same plane with the building basement and does not hang over it.
The installation of wall blocks starts from the corner of the house. First, the rack, which will enter the panel groove, is attached to the bottom trim with 4.2x75 self-tapping screws. Then a sip panel with a pre-foamed groove is inserted into this rack. This whole structure is fastened with self-tapping screws 3.5x40 in increments of 15cm. Similarly, the second panel is fastened - the rack is attached to the strapping beam and to the already installed panel, and then the panel itself is wound up and fastened.
Next, the installation of all other panels takes place, which are interconnected using double bars (as in the installation of the ceiling), and the grooves are filled with mounting foam. Sip panels at the joints with interior internal partitions and in the corners are also additionally pulled together with long capercaillie 8x200 in increments of 30-50 cm.
After the installation of the walls is completed, the upper grooves of the panels are filled with mounting foam and similarly closed with a 40x140 timber, forming the upper trim.
Installation of walls and floors of subsequent floors is carried out similarly to the previous ones.
Assembling the roof from SIP panels
Production of panels in the factory according to individual projects and according to the needs of the customer, allows you to design roofs of any complexity using tens and hundreds of elements. When installing such roofs, it is important to strictly follow the instructions or carry out installation with the participation of professional roofers or representatives of the manufacturer.
In the simplest case, when installing gable roof, after the installation of the attic floor, a simple truss system is mounted, installed on a Mauerlat with a section of 100x150. Such a rafter system includes racks on which a ridge beam and rafters are installed, which are mounted in the grooves of the sip panels and rest on the ridge beam at one end, and on the Mauerlat at the other.
In this case, the installation of the lathing is not required, since the sip panels have the necessary rigidity and ensure the stability of the entire roof.
Installation of roof panels is carried out according to standard technology. As a rule, for small buildings it is possible to use panel elements that are one-piece along the length without splicing, which greatly facilitates the process of their installation. If it is necessary to splice the panels to increase the length, then this procedure is carried out on the ground, and on the roof they are mounted with the seams apart.
Finishing the facade of the house from SIP panels
The final stage of building a house is the exterior decoration. When building houses from SIP, it is not recommended to delay this stage. Despite the fact that the panels are treated with special protective compounds, constant exposure to precipitation and sunlight over time can adversely affect their properties.
Today there are a lot of materials that can be used to decorate the facade of such houses. Due to the fact that the walls of the house are absolutely vertical and even, there are no restrictions on their finishing, which is a big plus. The most common houses are finished with vinyl siding, as the most affordable material, and imitation timber - wood panels that give the house a more expensive look.
After the construction of the box and the exterior finish, they proceed to the supply and breeding in the house engineering systems and communications and interior decoration.
The experience of building such houses shows that when using skilled labor, building a house from sip panels, starting with the installation of the foundation and ending exterior trim, takes a week. You can build such a house with your own hands within a month. Such terms attract many people, which is why this technology is so common lately.
The video shows good example construction of housing from panels in a very short time:
SIP panels or frame house - which is better
When choosing a project and technology for building a house, they often wonder which is better - sip panels or. The technology of building houses from SIP is positioned as a type of panel construction, since houses are assembled from elements manufactured at the factory. But, as a rule, when erecting a building, wooden beams are used to connect the panels, which forms a rigid frame (as in frame house), providing the structure with greater strength.
In fact, a house made of sip panels is the same frame, where ready-made factory panels are used as an insulation pie. When filling the insides frame house the human factor plays a role when it is possible to skip cold bridges, make an incorrect overlap between the layers of insulation, or make a mistake when installing a vapor barrier, which is practically impossible in vulture construction (with the exception of possible non-foamed cracks, as mentioned above).
Usually housing from sip panels is cheaper frame structure, so in the end the decision is made on the basis of the budgets for the construction and the project you like.
Below we list the pros and cons of using the technology of building houses from SIP panels.
Advantages:
- due to the high heat-saving characteristics of enclosing structures.
- More usable area- due to the small thickness of the walls, you can get 15-20% more usable area.
- Accelerated installation of the box at home (1-2 weeks).
- No need for a device expensive foundation(enough, for example, installed in 1 day).
- Savings on heavy lifting equipment can significantly reduce construction costs.
- You can build houses all year round - they do not shrink, so finishing work can begin immediately after assembly.
- The assembly technology is simple, you can even build a house from a SIP panel with your own hands - this is within the power of anyone who follows the instructions and knows how to hold a screwdriver and a saw in their hands.
Flaws
- A small thermal inertia of the enclosing structures is characteristic of any frame houses.
- The high price of the material - however, this is more than offset by savings in foundation costs and a reduction in construction time.
- Enclosing structures do not breathe, and, therefore, an efficient device is needed - this drawback is also inherent in all frame houses.
- Flammability of building envelopes - but it is not higher than that of any wooden buildings.
- Emission during combustion of harmful substances - indeed, during the melting of polystyrene foam, styrene is released with a specific sweetish odor. When its concentration in the air is more than 600 ppm (1 ppm = 4.26 mg / m3), it is dangerous to humans. But the smell of styrene becomes unbearable already at concentrations above 200 ppm, and this is an unambiguous signal for urgent evacuation.
- Amenable to rodents - although these animals are bred anywhere, there are cases when, in search of food, rats even gnawed through concrete.
Also on the market are cheaper products with linings 9 mm thick, but they are only suitable for walls and partitions of small one-story buildings.
Differences of the factory SIP panel
- Inaccurate geometry. The shift of the plates relative to each other, the rhomboid or trapezoidal panels are easily detected using a square and a tape measure.
- The use of low-quality OSB with low moisture resistance. Wet the surface of the panel liberally for an hour or two. If the chips begin to flake off, you have a defective product.
- Low strength adhesive bond. This is perhaps the main feature of goods produced in a semi-handicraft way. You can check the product only by tearing off one of the plates from the insulation. A high-quality panel is torn not at the seam, but along the foam sheet.
- Execution of the middle part of the panel from fragments of polystyrene foam plates. In order to reduce the amount of waste, artisanal enterprises start cutting insulation, which negatively affects both strength and heat-insulating properties. The joints of the expanded polystyrene boards are easy to see at the ends of the panels.
Step-by-step construction of a house from SIP panels
Foundation
Firms that are engaged in the construction of houses from SIP panels recommend doing that fully meets the concept of a prefabricated building. Piles under a house with an area of up to 150 m² can be installed in two or three days, and with the help of a special installation - in one day; assembling a grillage from a channel or timber strapping will also not take much time.
The force of frost heaving many times exceeds the load from light walls made of SIP panels. In such conditions, pile and insulated shallow foundations work best.
(their most common diameter is 108 mm, length - 2.5 and 3 m) are located under the external and internal capital walls, as well as crossbars (they are needed to reduce beam spans) in increments of 1.5–2 m. Such a base leads well itself on heaving soils and practically does not settle under light walls - provided that the laying depth was not determined randomly, but as a result of trial screwing with force measurement: the pile blades must rest on dense soil layers.
To serve for more than 50 years, you need to purchase piles of steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm with cast tips that resist corrosion much better than welded ones; after installation, they should be filled with concrete. One support, including installation, will cost 2400–2700 rubles, that is, the cost of a foundation for a house measuring 8 × 10 m will not exceed 100 thousand rubles. True, finishing the basement will require additional costs: you will have to make a pickup from cement-bonded or glass-magnesite sheets (for tiling or stone lining) or decorative panels on the frame.
The main alternative to the pile-screw foundation is the traditional one for dacha construction shallow-depth tape 0.3–0.4 m wide and 0.6–0.8 m high. If you prepare concrete yourself, and not buy it at the factory, then such a foundation will cost a little cheaper than a pile one, but the construction time will increase by at least 3 weeks . The key to the reliability of the strip foundation is a correctly made reinforcing cage, it should be designed in accordance with SP 63.13330.2012 (the main requirements are the presence of at least two reinforcing belts and a reinforcement ratio of at least 0.1%). The base of this foundation cannot be erected on heterogeneous soils with quicksand. Lightweight is optimally suited for swampy areas with strongly heaving and weakly bearing soils. The slab is poured over a sand and gravel drainage pad, a layer of extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 100 mm and a waterproofing substrate. The minimum thickness of the slab is 200 mm, and it must be reinforced with a two-level frame made of a bar with a diameter of 12 mm or more. To protect the walls from water (mainly melted water), a reinforced concrete plinth 0.3–0.5 m high should be erected along the contour of the slab. It is advisable to insulate the blind area and the plinth with 50 mm thick EPS sheets.
It is advisable to strengthen the foundation of steel piles with a grillage from a channel or an I-beam. The grillage rand beams must be welded to each other and, in addition, welded to the piles. metal parts it is necessary to protect against corrosion and isolate from the wooden piping with rolled waterproofing.
When constructing a floating strip foundation, it makes no sense to delve into clay soil- it is better to build up the above-ground part, which will serve as a basement. Reinforcing cage should be knitted with galvanized wire. Connections must be strong and durable, because the frame must work as a whole throughout the entire life of the foundation.
Walls
Despite the fact that the technology is considered unified, each company and even the team has its own methods of assembling building envelopes - successful and not very successful.
Construction requires products of both standard and custom sizes- lintels over openings, piers, roof elements, etc. Large companies with their own production line, cutting is carried out only in the factory. Small firms and "autonomous" teams often cut out the necessary fragments on the site using circular saw and a foam grater (using this tool, grooves are selected along the perimeter of the panels). With this method, there is a high risk of violation of the geometric dimensions of rooms and openings, the appearance of gaps at the joints of parts.
The construction technology provides for the installation of a hidden frame, the details of which are inserted into the grooves of the panels. For the frame, selective chamber-drying lumber impregnated with an antiseptic composition should be used, and for floor beams it is desirable to use either a wooden I-beam. Alas, sometimes under-dried products are used, which can warp, which will lead to the appearance of cracks and deformation of walls and ceilings. The junction of panels with frame elements is always sealed with polyurethane foam. However, some teams are accustomed to assembling racks from two boards, simply pulling them together with self-tapping screws without any seam sealing. At the same time, a beam of 150 × 100 mm can be installed in the corners. It seems that this should increase the strength of the box at home, but in practice, such a solution only guarantees the freezing of the corner in a harsh winter.
SIP panels allow you to build buildings complex configuration- with oblique corners and bay windows. True, at the same time, labor costs and the amount of waste increase, and hence the cost of 1 m2 of house area.
Roof
An attic or semi-attic floor can be built both with the help of SIP panels, and according to traditional technology with insulation with mineral wool or other materials.
Sometimes you can hear that a roofing cake based on SIP panels is more resistant to moisture (after all, polystyrene foam has extremely low water absorption). However, the constant presence of moisture (which may seep through the roofing or enter from below in the form of steam) leads to the destruction of the panel facings (OSB). In addition, at temperatures above 80 ° C, the process of thermal destruction of expanded polystyrene begins.
Therefore, between SIP panels and roofing material ventilation must be provided. You can not do without a layer of vapor barrier from the side of the premises, as well as a ventilated ridge.
The load-bearing part of the roof made of SIP panels includes a ridge beam, purlins (bearing beams parallel to the ridge) and layered rafters, the function of which is performed by the beams between the panels. Installed panels cover with a continuous carpet of rolled vapor-permeable waterproofing, then mount the rack lathing to which the roofing is attached (for example, profiled steel sheets) or another layer of OSB, which serves as the basis for flexible shingles.
drastically change the situation in better side only capable forced system supply and exhaust with heat recovery, which will provide zonal air exchange. The main element of such a system is the recovery unit. For a cottage with an area of about 120 m 2, where a family of three or four people lives, an installation with a capacity of 180-250 m 3 / h is enough, the price of which will be 60-250 thousand rubles. depending on the design and manufacturer. The cost of the system with installation varies between 350-700 thousand rubles. without taking into account the cost of creating hidden cavities for laying ventilation ducts.
Finishing SIP panels
From the inside, the walls of SIP panels are in the vast majority of cases sheathed with drywall, the sheets of which can be attached directly to the internal OSB. The sheathing is made two-layer, providing channels for electrical wiring in the first layer (cables must be placed in protective corrugated pipes or PVC boxes). At traditional way installation of gypsum boards (using lathing from rails or steel) pipes and cables are laid in cavities under the skin.
Outside most often mounted hinged facade. In addition, plastering is possible, but in order to avoid cracks, it is advisable to use wet facade technology, with wooden planks, composite panels.
