Well ... a cardboard shed. First of all, I would foam the cracks in the walls. Moreover, I would take the “professional” foam, well, which is under the gun, it’s just a gun and it’s more convenient to work, and the foam is dosed more accurately, respectively, it will expel it less and go less into the trash. You can, of course, caulk tow, but it is unlikely to come out especially cheaper, but there will be disproportionately more trouble.
Then nail up the foamed cracks with planks, it’s interesting that you can still get shingles, otherwise a shaped plank for finishing will come out expensive. Close the gap between the wall and the roof with a piece of foam insulation, cut it approximately under the gap, foam the remaining cracks. Thus, at least there will be no blowing through the walls.The roof is not clear. Where roofing material is visible above the boards, is it already a roof or is there still an attic? It is worth seeing if the roof is leaking, Ruberoid is a so-so coating, perhaps in the spring it is worth covering the roof with some kind of ondulin or a cheap profiled sheet.
It is worth insulating the ceiling in the first place, since the warmest air is from above. Since you don't need much aesthetics, I would attach foam insulation directly to the ceiling. There are such "fungi" for fixing the insulation; they have wide plastic caps just under the screw. Here, through them, screw the foam plastic with screws of a suitable length straight to the ceiling. The only thing is to pick up the screws so that they do not stick up from the board. And then if there is an attic on top, you will walk - you will tear your shoes, if the roof is - well, you yourself understand ... if there are no fungi, then you can cut bar washers from any sheet material: metal, plastic, plywood, whatever you find.
There is a more aesthetic option, you can screw plywood over the foam insulation to the ceiling, directly with screws to the boards through the foam, and close the joints with a plank. Stick foam plastic with foam, there is one for gluing insulation to walls, I didn’t use it myself - I just read it. In general, if only the insulation lasted while screwing the plywood.
But first you need to deal with the roof, because if it leaks after warming, there will be much more trouble.
The same can be done with the walls, but first you need to remove the cardboard from the walls and see what is under it. It seems to me there are racks, and the outer skin boards are already nailed to them. If so, then insulation can be laid between the racks, and inner lining, an inch board or the same plywood can be nailed to the racks. It would just not hurt to hang shelves on the walls, and under them it would be nice to have a stronger base than polystyrene.
In general, decide what is under the cardboard - we will think. If there are racks, then measure their thickness, if you manage to lay at least 100 mm of insulation without the hassle, you can work quite comfortably even in winter.I wouldn't bother with floors at all. if you are not going to sleep there, then as long as it does not blow strongly from the bottom, the rest is not important.
Here is the window, by the way, the least of the problems. I would take a couple of pieces of a thick film and beat the window with glazing beads inside and out - here's a triple-glazed window for you
The owners usually prefer to cope on their own with the construction of households. buildings. And quite often the question arises, how to insulate the barn. Even before construction begins, you need to know for what purposes you need it: to store unnecessary trash, tools, or livestock will live in it. Determine the dimensions of the future building. Then mark the planned barn on the site, dig a trench under the foundation. It can be shallow, about half a meter. When pouring the foundation, you can use stones, pieces of old brick, mixing them with cement mortar. If suddenly the foundation settles, you just need to add a new one.
The best option for warming the barn.
In the event that you are building a barn for animals, you need to think about how to insulate the barn. The best solution to this issue would be the insulation of the barn during the construction process. In this case, two rows of walls are laid out, and any heat-insulating material is placed in the resulting space. To install the roof, boards are fixed at the top of the walls, and they need to be screwed from the inside. The insulation should be laid on the logs and covered with boards. To prevent moisture from lingering on the barn, the roof should be made sloping. For the floor, you can take pallets and cover them with straw. Such a barn will be inexpensive if you use improvised materials and do all the work yourself.
Possible options.
If the barn was built a long time ago, and you decided to insulate it only now, due to a change in its purpose or for any other reason, you have several options.
The first way is boarding.
The barn outside can be sheathed with boards according to the principle of brickwork, closing the gap between the two boards of the third. The walls are upholstered with slate in the same way that is used when covering the roof. In addition, the barn can be sheathed with boards from below. Slate sheets are placed higher, and then timber is stuffed.
In the process of work, insulation is poured between the walls, which needs to be tamped with something. As a heater, you can use pine needles, fallen leaves, sawdust. These materials are mixed with lime in a combination of one to twenty-five. This avoids problems such as rodents between walls. The ceiling also needs to be hemmed, and the same composition is poured on top. Boards are stuffed over the rafters and covered with roofing material in several layers, which must be nailed with wooden slats at a distance of half a meter. The lower part of the barn on both sides can be furnished with slate, which will protect the room from rodents and predatory animals.
From below, the barn is insulated by sprinkling the floor with soil, 10 cm below the main floor, and then laying and compacting the clay mortar.
The door is made of boards knocked down diagonally, putting a layer of roofing material between them so as not to release heat.
The second way is sheathing with shingles.
How to insulate a barn if money is tight? The walls need to be sheathed with shingles, it needs to be nailed obliquely, starting work from the corner. Do the work in one direction, then in the other, having achieved the crossing of the shingles. It can be replaced with goat willow branches, then the clay can be applied thicker.
Engage in the preparation of a clay solution by adding sawdust to it. The clay must be soaked and diluted with water to the consistency of liquid sour cream. Sawdust should be added a little at a time, achieving the required density of the solution. For cooking, it is better to take larger dishes so as not to knead several times. The finished solution should stand for a while.
Apply the mortar to the bottom of the wall in large quantities and smooth it with a spatula. Its layer should be at least 3-5 centimeters. Apply the solution evenly, paying special attention to the corners of the room. They can even be rounded and made even warmer. After finishing plastering, let the walls dry for several days. During this time, cracks form, which must be rubbed with a solution of clay and sand in a ratio of 1 to 2. The walls must be whitewashed with lime. Take lime in granules, dilute in half a bucket of water. Within a minute, the reaction with water will begin, the solution will become very hot. When the reaction is over, fill the bucket with water to the top, add a spoonful of table salt.
Insulate the barn ceiling. At the level of 15 cm from the roof around the perimeter, fix the bars. The length of the boards should allow them to lie on the bars and fit snugly against the walls. On top, fill the boards with a solution of clay with sawdust, 10 cm thick, after opening the roof. And again, special attention should be paid to the corners.
The process of warming the barn in this way is quite laborious, but the cheapest and very reliable. Now your animals will definitely not freeze!
Making adobe
Now you need to prepare adobe - a clay solution reinforced with straw or sawdust. Let's put the clay in an ordinary metal bucket (10 l) or in a trough and start adding water into it in small portions. After each portion, we will stir the solution, achieving a homogeneous mass. We pour water until the solution takes on a creamy appearance. Then add straw to the mixture.
Any one will do - fresh or even last year, the main thing is that it be of good quality, without mold and rot. If there is a problem with straw, you can use sawdust, which is easy to purchase for little money at any sawmill or construction market. We add the material by eye, as a result, a thick mixture should be obtained, similar in consistency to liquid cement.
It is not necessary to use a separate container - in the warm season, you can breed adobe right on the street. To do this, cover a small area of \u200b\u200bthe earth with a waterproof film. In the center of the site we will form a clay hill, in the middle of which we will make a recess. Let's pour water there and stir the composition with our feet (alas, the work is dirty). Then add pre-soaked straw. The approximate proportion is 14-16 kg of straw (or sawdust) per 1 m 2 of clay. Mix thoroughly again. Saman is ready.
We apply the solution
So, we begin to insulate the walls. We apply the adobe solution to the prepared crate of wooden shingles. We throw the clay mixture over the rails and inside the cells, and then level it with a spatula. We throw the solution from below and further - up the wall. The layer thickness should be 4-7 cm, but not more, otherwise the material may crack badly in the future. Now let the walls dry, which can take a few days. If small cracks nevertheless appear somewhere, we will cover them with a solution, which we mix from clay and sand in a ratio of 1: 2. At the final stage, we will cover the surface of the walls with slaked lime.
Styrofoam and mineral wool
We mount the frame
This technique is more expensive, since you have to purchase expensive materials. But on the other hand, it is not very laborious and it does not take much time to implement it. First of all, we glue the walls with a vapor barrier film, on top of which we mount a frame made of wooden bars. A metal profile for drywall is also suitable. Moreover, metal elements will undoubtedly be a more reliable solution. The distance between metal slats or bars should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the mineral wool slabs, and the depth of the cells should correspond to the thickness of the thermal insulation.
We mount the insulation
Now that the frame is ready, we lay cotton slabs in it. They will be held in it naturally by compression from both sides. If any of the plates turns out to be a little larger than necessary and does not fit into the crate cell, carefully cut it with a knife. However, foam blocks can also be used. It is good because, unlike cotton wool, it does not let in and does not accumulate moisture, but you still cannot do without a vapor barrier. The foam should be mounted on a special adhesive composition. For additional fixation, it is recommended to use dish-shaped dowels. The ceiling is also insulated in the described ways.
We fasten the skin
As a finish, we sheathe the frame with insulation with any sheet material - plywood, OSB-boards or chipboard. To make the surface look more aesthetically pleasing, it can be painted.
We warm the floor
soil and clay
It often happens that there is no floor covering in the barn and only bare ground under your feet. In this case, to insulate the floor, it is easiest to use improvised materials, for example, the same clay and soil. You can dig up both on your own site or near the nearest river. Let's throw a layer of soil at least 10 cm thick over the old earthen floor. After that, we will make a mound of clay and properly tamp it down. If it is supposed to keep chickens indoors, then you will still have to throw sawdust, and lay straw on top.
Expanded clay and cement
The advantage of this method is that the floor will always be flat and clean. We lay the expanded clay backfill, level it, and make a sand-cement screed on top. This process is very laborious, and construction skills will be required for its execution. But at the same time, you no longer have to mess with the earth on the floor.
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With year-round keeping of chickens, pigs and other domestic animals, it is important to properly equip their housing. It is better to insulate the barn at the construction stage. But if during construction thermal protection was not properly provided, then you can do the work yourself already during the operation of the building.
Why you need to observe the temperature regime
The plumage and fat of chickens allows them to survive in low temperatures. However, if the thermometer shows 0 ° C or less, then they stop laying eggs. And in severe frosts, birds may not survive at all. The optimum temperature in the winter in the chicken coop is 7-10 ° C. Better 12-15 ° C. It is in such conditions that chickens will retain their egg production even in winter.
But in order for them to lay eggs constantly, maintaining the temperature regime alone is not enough. In winter, in their "house" you need to create lighting, as in the spring. To do this, you will need to place light bulbs with a power of 60 watts around the entire perimeter of the barn. They will not only provide the necessary light, but will additionally heat the chicken coop.
If light bulbs alone are not enough to create the optimal temperature, additional heating of the barn will be required. To monitor the internal temperature, you need to place a thermometer in the building, but only closer to the ceiling, because chickens can peck at it. It is better to use a remote device that is placed outside, but its measuring tip is inside the barn.
A cheap way to insulate a barn
To insulate a farm building for poultry, pigs and other livestock, it is not necessary to be a professional builder.
All work can be easily done by hand.
The most budgetary option for thermal insulation of a barn is the installation of a double wall with cheap, improvised insulation in its cavity.
Installation of a wall structure
First you need to build a second wall around the entire perimeter of the building. To do this, two boards are nailed parallel to each other, and on top of the seam is the third board.
Insulation bookmark
Insulating material must be placed in the resulting space between the wall surfaces. It can be autumn leaves, pine needles or sawdust. To prevent small rodents from starting in the shed, the heat insulator must be mixed with slaked lime in a ratio of 25: 1.
The insulation layer must be at least 20 cm. At the same time, it must be placed everywhere - on the walls, ceiling and floor. It is well tamped, and then allowed to stand for another 2-3 weeks. If necessary, the material is added and "seal" the space.
Floor insulation
How can you insulate the floor in the barn? Even ordinary clay will do. To do this, first pour the soil around the entire perimeter of the building 10-15 cm above the main one, and then lay the compacted clay.
At the same time, it is very important to prevent the penetration of moisture from it to the sawdust, otherwise they will begin to rot quickly.
Thermal protection of doors
The door in the outbuilding can be insulated with ordinary boards and roofing material. To do this, the boards are nailed diagonally, and a sheet of roofing material is inserted between them.
By isolating the barn in this way with your own hands, you can provide warmth all year round for chickens, pigs and any other living creatures.
The use of shingles
Shingles are excellent not only for warming household buildings, but also for residential premises. However, it does not require any financial costs, you only need clay, slats and patience.
The insulation of the barn with shingles occurs as follows.
Preparatory activities
First of all, you need to nail the slats diagonally, first in one direction, then in the opposite direction (goat willow branches can be used as slats).
Then you need to prepare the solution. To do this, the clay is soaked in water until a creamy mass is obtained and a little sawdust is added to it. The solution should stand for 20-30 minutes so that the wood chips swell and the clay lays down better.
Now you can start warming. Start applying the mixture from below with a small layer of 4-7 cm. No more is needed, as this can lead to strong cracks on the surface. The solution must simply be thrown onto the shingles, and then leveled with an ordinary construction spatula. You can add more clay to the corners by making them slightly rounded.
Next, the walls should dry completely. This may take several days. Cracks may form on the plastered surface. You shouldn't be afraid of them. They should be covered with a solution of clay and sand (1: 2). The same solution is recommended to seal all the cracks near the ceiling and floor.
After the clay plaster is completely dry, it must be treated with slaked lime. This will give the walls an aesthetic appearance and prevent various rodents and insects from entering them.
The use of modern insulation
This method is the most expensive, as it requires the purchase of building materials. But it is more suitable for those buildings in which there are more or less even walls without gaps.
Installing the frame for mineral wool
As a rule, mineral wool is used as an insulating material for interior work. But before applying it, it is necessary to prepare the cells in which it will fit.
You can make them from ordinary boards, creating rectangular hollow structures nailed to the walls and ceiling.
vapor barrier
To avoid moisture ingress into the thermal insulation material, it is necessary to create a layer of vapor barrier with foil.
It will serve as an additional insulation for the barn, as it prevents the penetration of cold air and the exit of hot air.
After arranging the vapor barrier, a heater (mineral wool) is placed in the cells. It is installed by surprise, additional fastening is not required.
Then the structure is sheathed with plywood or other sheet material.
Use of Styrofoam
Styrofoam is also suitable for warming outbuildings. But it is better to place it outside, because the material is fragile and chickens can easily damage it.
Insulation plates are attached to the surface with special adhesives. Then, using the same glue, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is mounted (embedded in the composition). On top of the reinforcing layer, plastering and whitewashing with lime are performed.
Whichever method of insulation from the above is chosen, it is important to remember that the main thing is to create optimal conditions for the normal existence of cattle or poultry.
If you live in a private house, then you have some opportunities that residents of state-owned apartments do not have. You can grow your own vegetables, fruits, get your own livestock and treat yourself to a fresh, environmentally friendly product. True, the cattle still need to be kept somewhere. And here already someone is into something much - they drive the poor cattle wherever they get, even into rooms that are completely unsuitable for that.
Usually, the first livestock that newly-made gardeners and owners of private houses, not counting cats and dogs, are chickens. This is understandable, because it is by no means difficult to care for them at any time of the year. In spring and summer it's a pleasure- it is enough to equip a canopy where they could hide from the sun or bad weather, and provide the necessary nutrition. And in winter it is a little more difficult. Of course, it would never occur to anyone to take them into their house, and in a flock with tools, chickens will die from the cold. But do not despair. Even a barn that looks like a sieve and is blown through by all the winds can be insulated for chickens.
Insulation of the barn with sawdust
This material can be obtained in abundance at any sawmill and for a hell of a nice price. Sawdust should be fine and dry.
We breed sawdust with lime 1/25, respectively. If you insulate the shed with sawdust, then make sure that the distance between the parallel walls, which you fill with chips, is at least 25 centimeters.
We fill the material in layers, while constantly tamping. Then you need to wait a couple of weeks until the insulation settles. After that, you will need to add sawdust.
Insulation of the ceiling in the barn occurs in approximately the same way. But here you need to lay another layer on top of the insulation layer. We don’t just cover it, but between it and the insulation layer there must be either a plastic film.
When insulating the barn, pour at least 10 centimeters in height above the main level. Then we pour and ram the clay. But with this method of floor insulation, you should immediately warn that it will always be dirty in the barn. If you want a clean floor, then we replace the soil with expanded clay and pour it on top with a cement-sand screed. But this will have to be done in advance during the warm season.
Shed insulation with shingles
Shingles are made from straw, it is safe and environmentally friendly. The shingles can act as a reinforcing material, since the straw prevents the clay from cracking and crumbling. Such material is able to serve for many years under a layer of plaster.
By mixing clay with straw, you can make bricks- adobe, from which you can make an excellent warm barn. If the barn has already been built, it can be insulated with shingles from the inside.
Shingles are wooden dies that are stuffed onto the walls from the inside of the room. It is them that you will cover with clay and straw. The dies are stuffed in two layers diagonally. One layer goes in one direction, the second in the opposite direction. Thus, you should get a diamond-shaped mesh. Once the base is prepared, the clay should be soaked to a state similar to sour cream. While stirring, add straw in portions.
Then we stir for some more time until the solution becomes thick enough so as not to fall off the base. Before use, the mixture should be a little more infused. Next, apply the mixture from bottom to top.
The layer should be at least 3 centimeters thick.
Leveling is done with a spatula. In the corners, the thickness of the layer is increased to 5 centimeters. If cracks form after drying, do not be afraid - just cover them with a clay-sand mortar. In the end, in order for ours to live a long time, you need to plaster the walls and whitewash. Warming the barn with shingles contains a significant disadvantage - despite its low cost, it will require a lot of time and effort from you.
Shed insulation with mineral wool
There are ways faster, but at the same time, more expensive. Of these options, the best of their kind are
