How to glue MDF - features of installation work. Interior decoration of walls with mdf panels Assembly of mdf wall panels

Wall decoration with MDF panels has recently become more and more popular, due to the fact that with the help of them you can quickly tidy up surfaces of a fairly large area. In addition, the installation of the panels will not take much time, since you do not have to wait for the drying of numerous layers, as, for example, in the case of plastering. It also plays into the hands that the surface leveled by them does not require any additional finishing, as is the case with drywall. Another advantage of this material can be called a very affordable price for it.

Do-it-yourself MDF wall mounting panels, which can be carried out even if there is absolutely no experience in this work, are installed quite simply. The main thing is to understand the principle of such cladding, prepare surfaces and pay special attention to accurate calculations and markings.

What are MDF panels?

The abbreviation "MDF" stands for finely dispersed fraction, from which this finishing material is made, including wall panels. The production of MDF consists in the process of dry pressing of a finely dispersed mass from sawdust and shavings, using high temperatures and pressure. To bind the mass, carbamide resins modified with melamine are added to it, which prevents the evaporation of formaldehyde, chemically binding it (formaldehyde emission class - E1). MDF panels are considered an environmentally friendly material, so they are not prohibited from being used for interior decoration. The principle of installing panels is similar to installing natural wood, but they have a lower price than the latter.

Installation of MDF wall panels can be carried out in two ways - fixing them to a frame crate or fixing them to the wall surface using an adhesive composition such as "liquid nails". This adhesive is used not only for the installation of wood products and its products, but also for sealing cracks, as it contains sawdust filler. If the filling of defects will be carried out on the remaining visible sections of the wall, then the adhesive mass should be selected by color so that the patched sections do not stand out against the general background.

MDF panels are produced in a wide variety of shades and can have a textured micro-relief pattern that imitates various types of wood or stone, so they can be matched to any interior design. In addition, the panels are easily combined with each other and can be installed vertically or horizontally, depending on what effect the owners want to achieve.

For example, if the ceiling is too high and makes the room uncomfortable, you can install the panels horizontally, using different shades of them alternately. If you need to visually raise the wall, then the panels are installed vertically.

The panels are produced in different lengths and widths, so before choosing the color and shape of the material, you need to think about what effect you want to achieve.

Tools for finishing work

To work comfortably, you need to prepare tools in advance that will speed up the installation of the finishing material, making it as simple as possible. So, from the tools you will need:

Electric jigsaw or vertical saw.
Building level and plumb.
Tape measure, metal ruler and building corner, a simple pencil or marker.
Electric drill, screwdriver or even a regular screwdriver.
Construction stapler.
A hammer.
Pliers.

The main methods of mounting MDF panels and the materials necessary for this

For the installation of MDF, certain auxiliary materials will be required. Moreover, the purchase of some of them will depend on the choice of mounting method.

Mounting panels on walls can be done in two ways:

Kleev.
Wireframe.

Both methods can be used to install panels both in a private house and in an apartment, but for adhesive installation, the main condition must be met - the wall must be perfectly flat. Therefore, if the panels are to be glued to the surface, then it must first be leveled with drywall or plaster-putty method.

To mount the panels on glue, you will need very few auxiliary materials - this is the “liquid nails” composition and fittings.

If you need to level an uneven wall with MDF paneling, while hiding communications behind it or conducting insulation and sound insulation, you will first have to install a frame that will bring the entire future surface into one plane.

The frame for the installation of panels can be made of a wooden beam or a metal profile. It must be said that fastening MDF is easier to carry out on wooden material, since nails or even stapler staples are suitable for this. When mounting panels on a metal profile, metal screws will be needed, and in this case it will not be possible to do without.

When using a frame, a gap inevitably forms between the main wall and the cladding, in which there will be no ventilation air circulation - such conditions are very “attractive” to mold and fungus. Therefore, before installing the crate, it is imperative to audit the wall. If it is wet, then it will need to be dried first, and then treated with special antiseptic compounds. It is still better not to install such a cladding on external thin walls at all, as it will quickly become unusable, and in addition, an unfavorable microclimate will be created in the room over time, which can cause allergic reactions in residents.

To install the cladding panels on the frame, the following materials will be required:

A wooden beam treated with antiseptic compounds, with a section of 15 × 30, 20 × 30, 20 × 40 or 20 × 50 mm, or a galvanized metal profile - the same as used when installing drywall.
Insulation material - foamed polyethylene of selected thickness.
Metal straight hangers that will help to set the guides exactly in one plane.

Kleimers for fixing panels on the frame.

Small nails or staples for the stapler.
Dowels for attaching brackets (suspensions) or direct rails to the wall.
Wood screws.
Fitting profile elements - corner and plinth. It should be noted that the design of the corner for MDF panels is convenient in that it can be used to decorate both the external and internal junction of planes, even at different angles.

Preparing the wall surface for cladding with MDF panels

Surface preparation can only be carried out if it is dry. If you find signs of high humidity on it, you must first determine the cause of this phenomenon, and then try to eliminate it. It is impossible to close a damp wall with any panels.

If there are no such obstacles for the installation of MDF panels, then approximately the same preparation of the wall surface is carried out both for the frame system and for gluing. It consists of several operations:

Wall cleaning.

If the wall is covered with wallpaper, then they must be completely removed, otherwise in a closed space they can become a breeding ground for mold or even insects. High-quality pasted wallpapers, which are difficult to remove, must first be soaked with water or steamed with an iron, and then cleaned with a spatula. Sometimes you have to resort to using special formulations for.

If the wall is plastered and whitewashed, or qualitatively painted with water-based paint, then it is not necessary to clean it.

Wall processing.

In the event that mold spots are present on the wall, then the surface must be “cured” - treated with a special composition “Anti-mold” or with the usual concentrated bleaching agent - “Whiteness”. Before processing, it is recommended to clean the surface to the maximum possible depth with a spatula. When the applied composition is absorbed and dried, the wall must be cleaned again with a spatula, and then the treatment should be repeated. It is advisable to clean the area affected by the fungus to the ground, that is, remove the plaster in this place completely and process the main wall itself well.

"Treatment" of the affected areas of the wall with antiseptic compounds

This work should be carried out in compliance with the mandatory safety measures, in a respirator or in a special mask, in order to avoid inhalation of particles of plaster affected by the fungus.

Closing cracks.

If, after removing the wallpaper or “weak” plaster, cracks are found on the wall, it is recommended to repair them, especially when planning the placement of heat and sound insulating materials under the MDF panels. Cracks must be repaired so that they do not become bridges of cold, as well as a place where dampness accumulates, various insects or the same mold can find shelter.

Cracks are first cut in breadth and depth, ...

In order for the putty or plaster mortar to hold well in the gap of the crack, it needs to be slightly expanded and deepened. Then it is cleaned of the remnants of the old plaster and processed with a brush.

… and then densely filled with repair mortar

After the primer has dried, the cracks are sealed with a putty mixture or plaster mortar. In this case, it is necessary to try to ensure that the expanded gap is filled to its full depth.

Surface primer.

The next step is to prime the entire surface of the walls. Moreover, it is necessary to choose a primer composition containing antiseptic components that will resist the emergence and development of mold, as well as other manifestations harmful to humans.

Mandatory operation - thorough priming of the entire surface of the wall

If it is planned to sheathe wooden walls, then it is recommended to choose a primer, which includes not only antiseptics, but also fire retardants - they will increase the fire resistance of wood.

The primer is applied to the wall with a roller in two to three layers, each of which must dry thoroughly before applying the next.

Installation of insulating material.

Further, in the event that the panels will be attached to the crate, you can proceed to gluing the insulation material. For this purpose, "penofol", which is glued to a primed surface, is well suited.

The most convenient in work - "penofol" on a self-adhesive basis

Today, you can find self-adhesive "penofol" on sale - it can be very easily fixed on the wall with foil towards the room by removing the protective film backing. If such material was not found, then the usual "penofol" is purchased. It is cut to the height of the wall and glued to the Teploflex glue, applied in an even layer on the wall surface or directly on the insulation. Cloths of "penofol" are pressed against the surface, and with the help of a rubber spatula, air is expelled from under it.

Gluing the joints of adjacent strips of "penofol" with adhesive tape

Sheets of material are mounted end-to-end, and then the glue must be allowed to dry, after which the joints are glued with special foil tape.

Frame structure installation

Carrying out markup

If it is decided to mount MDF panels on the frame, then first you need to decide how the elements will be installed, vertically or horizontally, since the location of the batten guides depends on this factor. For horizontal orientation of the panels, the guide battens are mounted vertically. And vice versa, if the panels are mounted vertically, the frame elements are installed perpendicular to them, horizontally.

The frame is fixed on top of the insulating material. The step between the railing guides is usually chosen within 500÷600 mm from each other, and they must be installed perfectly even.

To find the perfect vertical, you need to use a plumb line with a colored cord, with which straight lines are beaten off on the wall. If the lines are beaten off on a foil surface, then immediately after the beating, each of them is additionally highlighted with a black marker using a ruler.

To determine the horizontal, I resort to the help of a level. The most accurate result will give a laser or water. If there are no such tools, then you can use the usual construction one, expelling the bubble into the middle with special care. Having outlined the currents, they are also connected by lines using a colored cord.

According to the markup, it will be quite easy to correctly fix the guide battens.

When marking, it must be taken into account that the first frame guide is installed at the junction of two surfaces, that is, in the corner of the room or along the floor surface. The first racks will serve as a reference line for the rest of the elements, maintaining the set step.

wooden frame

Wooden bars, despite the marking lines, when installed on the wall, are still checked by the building level for evenness. Then, they are attached to the wall with dowels, for which holes are drilled right through the bars, into which plastic dowels are hammered, after which self-tapping screws are screwed into them (or driven dowel-nails are used). Fasteners are installed at a distance of 350÷400 mm from each other. The length of the dowels or self-tapping screws is chosen so that they go into the thickness of the wall by at least 50 ÷ 60 mm, and the thickness of the crate beam is added to this parameter, given that the screw head is completely recessed into the wood.

It is more difficult to bring all the racks of the crate to the same level if the wall requires alignment with the crate, and the bars themselves will have to be fixed to hangers. In this case, the installation of the frame is carried out in the same way for wooden bars and metal profiles.

Hangers are first fixed to the wall along the marking lines. I fix them on the wall with two dowels, maintaining a step between adjacent ones at 350 ÷ 400 mm from each other. Hanger shelves are bent perpendicular to the wall surface.

Then, two extreme beams on the wall are installed, aligned in level and relative to the wall. They are attached on both sides with self-tapping screws to the shelves of the suspensions. The protruding parts of the shelves are bent back towards the wall.

The installed extreme guides are connected along the outer edge with stretched cords from above and below (or to the right and left - with the horizontal orientation of the frame) - this will become the reference lines (beacons) for the correct installation of the remaining guides in a single plane.

Metal carcass

Metal profiles prepared in size are fixed on the wall according to the same principle as wooden bars, but sometimes liners are made of timber for structural rigidity. To fix the profile, suspensions are necessarily used, even if the wall is perfectly flat and the racks will fit close to it.

If the frame is mounted on a wooden wall, then the hangers for fastening the railing rails are fixed on the wall using wood screws. If installation on a different base of the wall is necessary, then it is best to fix the suspensions with driven dowels-nails.

If the finish is fixed on a wall that has a window or door opening, then appropriate guides must be installed along its edge, on which the lining will first be attached, and subsequently the slopes and platbands.

Installation of MDF panels on the frame

Before starting the installation of the cladding under the frame, all electrical or other cable communications are carried out and fixed, immediately determining the installation locations for sockets and switches, if they are provided on the wall being finished.

Installation begins with the preparation of MDF panels - they need to be cut to the height or length of the wall. The panels are marked with a tape measure and a building corner, the corresponding lines are drawn along which the cut is made using an electric jigsaw, a manual vertical circular or even a conventional hacksaw.

The first panel must be leveled until the ideal vertical (or horizontal) is reached, otherwise the entire cladding will go further skewed.
The launch panel is installed with a spike in the corner and fixed to the guides from the side of the corner in two or three places with self-tapping screws. On the opposite side, clamps are inserted into the groove of the panel at the points of its intersection with the railing guides, through which it is finally fixed with nails or staples to the wooden frame. When using a metal frame, the fixation of the clamps is carried out with small self-tapping screws with a low head, so that after it is completely screwed in, it does not interfere with subsequent installation.

To begin with, the spike of each next panel is tightly driven into the groove of the already installed one - this docking edge is already fixed. Mandatory adjustment of the panel according to the level is carried out, since the configuration of this connection allows a certain backlash. After precise exposure, the panel is fixed in the same way with clamps.
So continue facing to the end of the wall (or to the end of the section, for example, to the doorway). The last panel on the plane is cut in its thickness so that it freely enters the groove, leaving a gap of about 5 mm in the corner. The final fixation of the final panel is carried out with self-tapping screws, right through it. It's okay - the fastener caps at the beginning and at the end of the lined wall will be hidden by decorative corners.

Horizontal installation of panels is carried out in the direction from the floor to the ceiling, and the first canvas must also be perfectly level. Fastening to the crate takes place exactly according to the same principle as with a vertical arrangement.

In the panel on which the socket or switch is to be installed, a round hole with a diameter corresponding to the size of a standard socket (usually 67 mm) is pre-cut. Drilling is carried out using a drill-crown.

The socket must be fixed securely, and not bend when inserting the plug of electrical appliances. To ensure a hard stop against the wall, it is recommended to additionally fix wooden fragments of suitable thickness on the back side. The front part of the socket and the switch is screwed onto the facing panels or to the corresponding sockets of the socket.

Mounting MDF panels with glue

It is somewhat easier to install MDF panels on glue than on a crate, but using this method, it will not be possible to install insulation.

To install the first panel, it is necessary to beat off a vertical or horizontal line on the wall, depending on how the installation is planned.

When gluing, the position of the panel must be controlled by level.

Particular attention should be paid to the choice of glue for working with MDF panels - it must have some special properties:

- The adhesive must remain flexible enough even after its initial hardening, otherwise there is a risk of deformation of the panels. A composition should be selected that will not be affected by humidity and temperature changes.

- The adhesive must have a sufficiently thick consistency to be able to be applied in a thick or thin layer, as appropriate, and evenly distributed over the surface to be glued.

The best option - glue type "liquid nails"

These requirements in terms of the main parameters are precisely met by the composition "Liquid Nails". The primer that the walls are pre-treated with will create good adhesion for the glue on their surface, so the panels will hold securely on it.

Glue is applied to the back of the MDF lining in dotted or wavy lines. The panel with the glue applied is first firmly pressed against the wall, and then it is torn off and left to “wind” the glue for 3-5 minutes. After that, already for the final fixation, the panel is re-installed and pressed in the right place, and held on the wall surface for several seconds until the adhesive composition is firmly set.

The adhesive can be applied to the back side of the panels dotted or "snake"

Therefore, in order to speed up the gluing process, the composition is applied immediately to 8 ÷ 10 canvases, which are pressed against the wall and then come off. After smearing, attaching and tearing off the last of the 10 panels, they glue the first, second, and so on, until it comes to the last. When installing canvases, they need to be pressed very well against the wall surface, and for better fixation, you can even grab each of them with self-tapping screws in two places. They are screwed into the groove of the panel, and then the self-tapping screw is closed by the next spike to be installed.

If the finish is installed horizontally, it is recommended to wait until the glue under the lowest fixed panel dries well - it is necessary to create a reliable support for the rest of the paintings. If there is no time to wait, then the panel can also be attached to the wall with self-tapping screws.
The last panel to be mounted, if necessary, is reduced in width - it is measured, drawn and the excess part is sawn off with a jigsaw. In the corner, the last canvas is screwed to the crate or wall with a self-tapping screw.
The final elements of the installation are fittings and skirting boards. The corners are glued at the junctions of two planes to "liquid nails", covering the heads of the self-tapping screws that fasten the panels to the corners of the wall. In the same way, these fittings are fixed around door and window openings (if special profiles are not used there - platbands or slopes).

They can be mounted in different ways, depending on the chosen design - glued to the same glue, installed on special fasteners or screwed to the wall surface with self-tapping screws. Fixing skirting boards to the floor would be a very serious mistake.

Learn how to produce by reading the step-by-step instructions in the article on our portal.

Advantages and disadvantages of wall decoration with MDF panels

Having become acquainted with the technological process of mounting MDF panels, it is possible, summing up, to formulate their main positive and negative qualities.

So to virtues Such a finishing material includes the following qualities:

Fairly simple installation with the ability to mount the panels both vertically and horizontally.
A wide variety of colors and textured patterns will allow you to choose a finish for every taste and interior style.
When mounting MDF panels on a frame crate, you can hide cable communications behind them.
With the help of panels, even curved walls can be given a respectable look and visual evenness, especially with the right combination of shades.
Panels, unlike drywall, do not require additional finishing - this saves time, effort, and materials.
It is easy to take care of the MDF finish, as it is enough to periodically wipe the surface with a damp soft cloth.
Finishing MDF wall panels have a very affordable price.

disadvantages such panels can be called the following points:

With this finish, a perfectly smooth surface is not created, since small gaps or depressions almost always form at the joints, depending on the design of the panel.
When such a cladding is attached to the crate, a gap remains between it and the wall, in which, with insufficient pre-treatment or other adverse conditions, dampness can accumulate, and microflora that is unsafe for humans can develop. Very often, especially if walls are sheathed in a private house, this empty space becomes a favorable place for nests or rodent paths.
The coating of the panels is not highly resistant to mechanical stress - it is easy to damage it, for example, by moving pieces of furniture without sufficient care.
MDF does not belong to moisture-resistant materials in any way, therefore, if the wall behind the sheathing starts to get damp, the panels may swell and the lining will begin to deform.

However, it can be noted that despite the above disadvantages, MDF panels are only gaining popularity and fully compete with. The installation of such a cladding can easily be carried out even by one person without outside help, moreover, who has absolutely no experience in such work, unless, of course, he follows all the technological recommendations.

And in conclusion - a small "visual aid" in the form of a video about the installation of MDF panels:

Video: how to mount MDF panels on walls

If your apartment has not been renovated for a long time, and the walls have lost their appearance over the years, MDF panels will be the best replacement for wallpaper or tiles. They are ideal for interior decoration, as they have an attractive appearance and are made from environmentally friendly materials. In addition, high-quality installation of panels can be performed by anyone with basic technical and construction skills. Today we will talk about the features of finishing the room with MDF panels and provide step-by-step installation instructions.

What is MDF

MDF is a panel finishing material obtained from woodworking waste by dry hot pressing of fine chips. When heated, a substance called lignin is released from the wood, which acts as a glue. The structure of MDF resembles felt made from wood fibers. The main advantage of such panels is high moisture resistance. As a result, they are often used for cladding walls, floors and ceilings in rooms with high humidity, for example, in a bathroom or in a bathroom. However, due to its attractive appearance, such a finish is often widely used in halls and offices. Surfaces lined with MDF in the corridor and on the loggia also look great. The cost of the material compared to tiles is low, while the walls will turn out to be perfectly even.

If you decide to install the panels yourself, then first you need to prepare the necessary tools and materials for work.

What you need for installation

For high-quality finishing of MDF walls, you will need the following materials and tools:

Insulation (mineral wool, penofol, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam). Each type will be discussed in more detail a little later.
MDF panels. There are many models that differ in thickness, color and structure, so the choice is yours.
Laths or galvanized profiles for installing the battens. Width and thickness - 40 and 20 mm, respectively. The length is selected depending on the size of the wall.
Self-tapping screws are needed to fasten the panels to the crate.
Kleimers are special elements necessary for attaching panels to each other and the crate. Often available with panels.
A plumb line is a nut or any other small metal object tied to a fishing line or thread.
Building level.
Yardstick.
Pencil or marker.
Plane.
Metal corner (locksmith's square). It will be needed for cutting pieces of panels for slopes.
An electric jigsaw is used for sawing MDF. You can also use a hacksaw or a circular saw. The latter, due to its compactness, is very convenient to use. It can cut both wood and metal - just by changing the complete circles.
Perforator with a drill for concrete.
Screwdriver, drill or screwdriver with a nozzle for self-tapping screws.

Toolkit in the photo

Wall preparation

Preparing the walls before installing the battens

Before starting facing work, you need to make sure that the room is suitable for installing panels. If strong swelling of wallpaper, drywall, or peeling of plaster is visible on the walls, then you should first clean them of old finishing materials. Also, do not forget about the skirting boards and decorative corners (if any) used to hide the joints of the walls and ceiling.

Useful advice: It is desirable to remove the old finish completely, that is, to the main wall. So you save on fasteners and reveal hidden damage to the surface.

When the walls are cleaned, you can go directly to the installation of the sheathing under the MDF panel, but first, let's find out what varieties of it exist.

Types of crates

The most popular technologies for installing MDF wall panels today are:

Wooden crate. This design is easy to make, and it does not require a large number of fasteners. However, the wooden crate needs to be pre-impregnated with a special agent in order to prevent the appearance of fungus, rot, and mold. If the room has high humidity, then you should not use a wooden crate in this case.
Lathing from galvanized profiles. Often, metal structures are used as a crate for drywall, although they are quite suitable for cladding walls with MDF panels. But galvanized profiles are not suitable for forming a frame on the floor, due to their low strength. As for the ceiling, a light metal structure, and not a bar, is just right here.

Mounting

The installation of lattice structures made of metal and wood has several differences. For example, when using galvanized profiles, they should be fastened only with powerful and long self-tapping screws. The use of dowel-nails in this case does not make sense - the tenacity between the profile and the fastener itself will be lost.

The most important point on which the strength of the fit of the fastener and the entire structure depends is fixing the body of a self-tapping screw or a dowel-nail (with a wooden crate) at least 35 mm in the wall. For example, if the thickness of the rail or profile is 20 mm, and the MDF panel is 10 mm, then the depth of the groove for the seat and, accordingly, the fasteners should be about 65 mm, and preferably more. The diameter of the fasteners is selected in the range from 4 to 6 mm, depending on the density of the wall. The stronger it is, the smaller the diameter of the screw should be. All fasteners are equipped with a special socket. When drilling a groove, the diameter must be compared with the diameter of the body of the seat, and not its cap, otherwise the margin of safety will be insufficient.

Installation of a wooden structure

Installation of a wooden crate

We start with the installation of vertical racks. We install slats in each corner in pairs - so that they form a right angle, as well as along the edges of door and window openings along the entire height of the room. In order for the racks to take an exactly vertical position, we use a plumb line. Now in order:

We attach the rail to the wall and outline it on either side with a pencil or marker.
We make holes for fasteners using a puncher with a drill for concrete. For structural strength, the drilling step should be in the range from 0.4 to 0.5 m.
We drive nests for fasteners into the holes and make notes of their location on the rack itself.
We drill holes in the rail with a diameter slightly smaller than the mounting one.
We install the racks in place with the help of self-tapping screws or dowel-nails.
In the same way we install horizontal bars. The step remains the same. Do not forget to decorate the slopes with slats.
At the end, the elements of the ledge at the joints of the structure are removed using a planer.

Metal base fixing

The order of work on the installation of a structure made of galvanized profiles is completely similar to the above. First, the racks are placed in the corners of the room and in the places of openings for marking the walls. After that, holes for fasteners and installation of vertical profiles are made. UD type profiles are used as racks. In the marked places, in accordance with a step of 0.4–0.5 m, horizontal profiles of the CD type are inserted into them. After the cross bars are attached to the racks and the wall. Between themselves, the elements of the metal structure are connected using ordinary self-tapping screws. As mentioned earlier, such a crate should be attached to the wall only with powerful fasteners (dowel-nails will not work).

Useful advice: for cutting metal profiles, it is recommended to use a grinder or a hand-held circular saw with an appropriate nozzle. The efficiency of a jigsaw, even with a metal saw, is much less.

About thermal insulation

Insulation installation

The installation of the crate is completed, but before moving on to the installation of MDF panels, the walls should be insulated. This will save a lot on heating the room, as well as increase its thermal insulation. In addition, heaters additionally prevent the occurrence of mold, fungus and moisture in the voids of the crate. Cells in the crate are recommended to be filled with one of the following heaters:

Penofol is a relatively new multi-layer insulation material, which consists of polyethylene foam and polished foil with a reflectivity of 97%. It is fireproof, environmentally friendly, has good sound insulation and low vapor permeability.
Mineral wool. The material has gained great popularity due to its high thermal insulation and moisture resistant performance.
Styrofoam. Air is the best heat insulator, and this material consists of 98% of it. All this thanks to polystyrene granules, which are formed in the foam during the production process. The material is characterized by high rates of moisture and vapor impermeability.
Extruded polystyrene foam. This type of foam is obtained by melting with extrusion. The seal is not cheap, but it fully justifies its price. The material has excellent thermal insulation, as well as a high coefficient of compression. Therefore, it is often used for floor insulation.

Installation of this thermal insulation material is very simple:

From a roll of insulation, in accordance with the size of the cells (the step of the crate), sheets are cut out.
After that, they are attached to the wall using building foam or silicone glue.
The resulting protrusions of the mounting foam are removed with a clerical knife.

After the walls are insulated, we move on to the most interesting thing - the technology of wall cladding with panels.

Installation of MDF panels

Panel installation

Laying the product should start from the corner. The installation order is as follows:

We apply the panel to the corner and check whether it fits snugly to the crate. After we evaluate the evenness of the surface using the building level.
If everything is fine, from the side of the corner along the entire height of the structure, we fasten the panel with self-tapping screws to the crate.
Subsequent strips are connected using clamps that are inserted into the panel groove. It is desirable to fix these brackets with nails to the crate.
We slide the comb of the next one into the groove of the first corner panel. In this case, it is necessary to control the density of their fit. If gaps are found, cut the comb of one panel a little with a knife and try to put it back in place again.
We fasten the MDF bar to the crate using self-tapping screws along the entire height of the structure.
Then the installation process is repeated.
The last panel must be pressed all the way to the penultimate one and fixed at the free edge with self-tapping screws.

Important: If the last plank does not fit in the remaining space, then you can still carefully shorten it in width with a jigsaw.

slope finishing

This procedure is similar to installing panels. In addition, when finishing slopes, there are two options for decorating. The first is the installation of the panel along, the second - across. If the slope is small and its width does not exceed 1.8 of the width of the finishing panel, transverse sheathing is performed. With wide slopes, you can resort to any of the methods.

Useful information: slopes sheathed across, with alternating dark and light tones, have an excellent view.

The finished look of the finish is given by fittings, thanks to which you can hide the corner joints between the panels. Folding corners cover imperfections well. On the inside, you need to apply glue on them and press the product tightly against the skin in the corner. To hide the joints with the floor and ceiling, you can use a plinth.

Video instruction for working with wall panels

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in installing MDF panels, and you can do this work without the help of a builder. We hope that our article will help you produce high-quality interior decoration, which will not only insulate your home, but also last for many years.

This information is intended for those who want to finish MDF walls quickly and cheaply on their own, or for those who just want to expand their horizons. By studying this article, you will understand that do-it-yourself decoration is not very difficult. After all, the installation is alternately painted and shown in the form of photographs.

MDF material is wood waste (chips) mixed with a special adhesive solution and pressed.

A similar structure of the material makes it similar to boards, but at the same time it differs significantly. So, for example, the high temperature of processing wood waste in the production of particle board makes it possible to avoid adding various resins and other negative chemical compounds to the mixture for gluing.

Despite this, they have excellent technical performance, as a result of which they are widely in demand today.

Let's take a closer look

Interestingly, this material is used for finishing work on all surfaces, from ceiling to floor. On the other hand, this type of material is much more common in various administrative buildings and public places. Perhaps, people do not use it for their home due to the lack of domestic warmth and comfort of this material.

Advantages of MDF

The advantages of this finishing material include several qualities at once.

One of the main advantages - is the ease and availability of installation.
As a result, for its implementation it is not necessary to have for the implementation of this process.
In addition, the installation of this material does not require special preparation of the wall surface, since installation is the end point.
It is also worth noting that during the installation process there is not a lot of dirt and dust.
The repair, which includes dismantling the damaged panel and installing a new one, is quite simple and does not take much time.
Today, there are also requirements for heat and sound insulation, which is quite good for this finishing material.
As for caring for them, it is very simple, for example, they just need to be washed with warm water.
You should also not forget about the long service life, combined with the environmental friendliness of the material.
And finally, it is worth saying a few words about the texture and color of MDF panels, which is quite wide and imitates different materials from wood to stone.
At the same time, the cost of this type of material varies widely.

disadvantages

Along with the advantages, they also have some disadvantages. So, for example, this finishing material,

not very resistant to high humidity, and deformed. At the same time, manufacturers are working on this shortcoming, and now there are special moisture-resistant chipboards that are designed to finish such rooms as the kitchen and bathroom. Including this material is suitable for finishing a house or a summer residence.
It is also worth noting the low strength, which is less than that of other finishing materials, in particular laminate. So, a strong enough hit with the ball may well deform our finishing plate.
And, finally, this finishing material burns well, in this regard, experts recommend placing electrical wiring in special protective boxes (fire-resistant).

Installation

The installation process will require the presence of equipment such as special wiring boxes, a screwdriver, edge profiles, adhesives, self-tapping screws, and so on. In general, the installation process does not require special skills, but knowing little tricks will allow it to be carried out as efficiently as possible.

Preparing for installation

And so, before proceeding with the decoration, it is worth removing the wallpaper that is swollen or simply not holding tight.
After that, the surface of the walls is treated with a special raster - a primer. The fact is that this solution prevents the reproduction of fungi, which often appear in voids.
To increase the thermal insulation of the walls, you can use a heater and cover all the walls with it. Some types, for example, are attached to the wall with an adhesive solution, while the thickness of the insulation can be 0.5 cm. As a rule, such insulation materials are glued end-to-end. It is worth noting that the sparkling side of the insulation is glued directly inward.

Installation of mdf wall panels

Consider the first example of finishing, in which they are installed in the bullfighting room of a standard three-room apartment in a multi-storey building. Given the fact that there are no external walls, additional insulation is not required. Installation work must begin from the ceiling.

To determine the lowest angle in the room, you should use the building level and draw a horizontal line exactly 5 cm lower, which directly determines the position of the upper UD - profile.
For its fastening it is worth using a quick installation. Sometimes wooden slats are used as a frame, but this is not always effective. The fact is that if the wood is even slightly damp, then for some time it can be deformed during the drying process.

Next comes the stage of attaching the suspensions to the ceiling surface, while they should be about 60 - 70 cm apart from each other. For their fastening, you can also use quick installation, the parameters of which are from 4 to 6 cm. Of course, before that, you should do the necessary holes on top.

After that, the SD profile is mounted on the suspensions.

Interestingly, such a base allows you to install any of these types of finishing materials such as plastic, drywall or particle board. As for the plates made of pressed sawdust, it is better to use cements and self-tapping screws for their installation.

Remember, first carry out the laying of all communications (wiring, and so on), and only then the panels are mounted.

On one side, the material should be attached with self-tapping screws, and the other end is fixed with clamps. Interestingly, the clayers are attached to the frame with the help of bedbugs. Following this technology, you can quickly and easily close the entire surface of the ceiling.

If you want to mount a spotlight, then a puncher with special crowns will help you with this, which will make the necessary hole in this panel.

Next comes the turn of lighting fixtures, the installation of which is described in more detail by their manufacturer.

As for the installation of wall panels, here you should not forget about special boxes for electrical wiring.

The next step is to create the base frame. Here again, you can use suspensions that are fixed on the surface of the walls.
And they already have a CD-profile installed.
The top and them are delimited directly by the UD profile.

As for the location of the horizontal profile, here one should focus on those places that are most often affected, for example, in the area of the knee, shoulder, and so on. The distance between this profile should be kept at 60-70 cm.

MDF panels are very popular in the field of interior design. Consumer interest in this finishing material is explained by its low cost, excellent decorative qualities and environmental friendliness. Another important advantage is that wall cladding with MDF panels does not require any special building knowledge and skills, therefore, it is possible to save on the services of professional craftsmen. All work can be easily done with your own hands, you just need to show elementary accuracy and prepare the necessary set of tools.

Purchase of finishing materials and additional elements

Before buying panels, it is necessary to make measurements of the room, the finishing of which will be carried out. When typing material, one should be guided not only by the quadrature of the surfaces, but also by the dimensions of the panels themselves, taking into account possible waste. Also count the number of outside and inside corners in the room to purchase special finishing corners that match the color of the selected panels.

The finishing corners are thin MDF strips, pressed with a protective and decorative film. Folding along, they form an inner or outer corner of any radius. Finishing with applied laminated corners allows you to hide the corner joints of the panels and give a finished look to the room.

In addition to finishing materials, it is also necessary to acquire wooden slats or special metal profiles for mounting the crate. The choice of these materials will depend on the layout of the room itself.

Sheathing of internal partition walls is carried out without additional insulation, so wooden bars 50x40 mm are quite suitable for the crate. If it is supposed to finish the outer walls, then it is more expedient to purchase metal CD and UD profiles or a 40x40 beam, which will create space for the location of the heat-insulating material in the gap between the wall and the panels. In the case of using profiles, you will also need special U-shaped brackets.

The number of elements for the crate is calculated based on the fact that the distance between them should be an average of 0.4-0.5 m. In addition, it is necessary to stock up on screws of the appropriate length for mounting the crate, as well as self-tapping screws, clamps or staplers wooden) for fixing panel strips. You will also need socket boxes (drywall mounting boxes) if you need to install a switch or outlet, and glue for decorative corners (for example, liquid nails).

However, all these additional elements may not be needed if the internal walls have a perfectly flat surface and it is not expected to dismantle the panels in a short period of time. In this case, their installation can be carried out simply by gluing. Liquid mounting nails are perfect for this purpose.

A set of tools for wall cladding with MDF panels with your own hands

screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver (for self-tapping screws);
puncher (for making holes in concrete walls) or drill (for plaster, wood, brick and other walls);
locksmith square (for precise marking of corners);
sawing tool for MDF panels and slats: electric jigsaw (with a fine wood saw), a hand-held circular saw or a regular hand saw with fine teeth (you can use a hacksaw);
grinder or scissors for metal (for cutting metal profiles);
any type of building level or a home-made plumb line for the correct vertical installation of panels;
furniture stapler (if necessary).

Installation technology

MDF panels are rigid strips of a certain thickness, width and length with interlocking joints. With the use of this material, it is impossible to perform radius bends. They can only sheathe flat surfaces (walls, ceilings, slopes).

If the installation of the panels with your own hands will be carried out on the crate, no special preparation of the walls is required, i.e. it is not necessary to clean them of old paint, plaster or wallpaper.

Manufacturing of crates

Initially, it is required to determine the so-called control point. To do this, it is necessary to examine the wall for protruding sections. The most protruding place will play the role of a starting point, focusing on which, the elements of the crate are fixed to the level.

Depending on the design idea, the panel strips can be arranged vertically, horizontally or diagonally, and the mounting of the rails or profiles is carried out in a perpendicular direction to the panels.

Reiki or beams are fixed in increments of 40-50 cm. It is not recommended to increase the distance between them, because. the structure will lose rigidity and may bend. If there are height differences on the surface, use linings of the required thickness to level the depressions.

Properly made metal frame

The technology for arranging the lathing from profiles is somewhat different from the "wooden" version. In this case, a frame of UD profiles is initially mounted along the perimeters of each of the walls. The distance from the wall surface must correspond to the thickness of the insulation. Then the locations of the transverse CD profiles are marked. U-shaped brackets are attached along the marking line with a step of about 40 cm. CD profiles are inserted into the starting UD profiles, after which they are fixed with brackets using metal screws.

Paneling

If the project provided for the thermal insulation of the wall, then immediately between the elements of the crate, strips of insulation are laid and fixed. Along the way, inside the structure, electrical cables are laid and they are brought out of the crate, so that after the installation of the panels, their length will allow connecting sockets or switches.

Installation of panels starts from the corner and continues along the wall surface. Each previous strip is carefully attached to the details of the crate through the tongue groove, after which the next panel is inserted into the lock. If the last strip does not fit entirely in width, it will have to be cut off. Fasteners are made along the edge, so that subsequently the fasteners can hide the decorative corner.

In places where sockets and switches will be located, holes are made in the course of work using a special nozzle on a drill, into which wires are brought out.

To fasten the panels to the crate, several methods are used:

Finishing the room with MDF panels using the adhesive method is carried out by dotted or zigzag application of special glue over the entire strip area. Before sticking the panels, the walls must be treated with a deep-penetrating primer and allowed to dry. A few seconds after applying the adhesive, the strip is carefully pressed and fixed to the wall.

All of the above technologies are applicable to the arrangement of slopes. If the slopes are small, then it will be enough to build a crate frame around the perimeter, without transverse elements.

At the last stage, the outer and inner corners of the room are finished with finishing decorative corners, for fixing which glue is used. Corners can also be placed along the perimeter of the ceiling instead of the ceiling frieze.

At the locations of electrical outlets, special boxes are mounted and sockets or switches are installed.

To get an attractive design of the walls, to provide comfort in the room and an environmentally friendly atmosphere in it, it is possible with the help of modern finishing material - MDF. Its release is carried out in the form of panels. He gained fame extremely quickly, thanks to his practicality and attractiveness, his use is allowed in rooms with extreme loads: kitchen, living room, hallway. MDF panels surprise with a variety of shades and textures, they can very accurately imitate natural wood materials, brickwork or tiles. The cost of the material is low, with its independent installation, you can get significant savings on finishing work, during operation, especially difficult maintenance will not be required.

Wall MDF panels, their properties and advantages

To begin with, we note that MDF panels are produced not from solid wood, but from waste, and no synthetic impurities or glue are used, the technological process consists in heating wood chips to high temperatures and pressing them under high pressure. A strong connection of fragments of the material occurs due to the natural polymer compound released during heating - lignin.

Among the important advantages of MDF panels, it should be noted:

environmental friendliness of the material,
the possibility of quick and easy installation,
good thermal and sound insulation characteristics,
material strength, long service life,
ease of replacement of any fragment of the finish, if necessary,
simple care that does not require the purchase of expensive household chemicals,
the ability to hide wires, pipes, other engineering communications under a layer of lining,
affordable cost of the material.

The main disadvantages of the panels are:

combustibility of the material - when laying electrical cables under the plates, it will be necessary to carefully insulate them in a self-extinguishing corrugation,
inability to use in conditions of high humidity,
fragility, the need for very careful handling during installation work.

Varieties of MDF panels

In the manufacture of panels, different methods of finishing the front side are used, respectively, the panels themselves are divided into two types:

laminated, the surface of which is covered with PVC film, characterized by an attractive appearance, imitating the structure of natural wood, other building materials, not prone to dust accumulation, resistant to damage;
veneered, for finishing which veneer of the best wood species is used.

The external finish of the panels can be shiny - glossy, or matte.

We purchase MDF panels and materials that will be required during installation work

Although the installation of MDF panels is not a complicated process, nevertheless, it will require preliminary preparation, the purchase of the facing material itself and the necessary components. To correctly calculate the number of panels, you should first of all take into account the width of the space to be finished. MDF panels have the following dimensions: their standard width is 148, 190, 240 mm. Determining the required number of panels is simple: it will be the quotient of dividing the width of the wall by the width of the panel. A little more material should be purchased than was obtained by calculation: defects may come across, some of it will go to trimming, losses may also occur as a result of errors.

For work you will need to stock up:

MDF panels,
insulating corrugation, if electrical wiring will be laid under the panels,
self-tapping screws,
ceiling lamps,
suspensions,
kleamer,
profiles.

The preparation of the walls will consist in cleaning them from the remnants of old wallpaper. You will also have to remove the plinth. The surface of the walls must be treated with an antifungal primer, especially for rooms with increased air humidity. If necessary, the walls can be pasted over with an insulating material, for example, foam foam A foil. It is fastened with glue, end-to-end, with the foil side inside the room.

The use of finishing corners will greatly simplify installation. Consisting of strips located with a gap of 2 mm, they are designed to fasten the strips, a film is applied on their surface that matches the color of the panels. The formed corner is very easy to bend outward or inward. This point is especially important if the geometry of the available corners is far from ideal.

To build a frame for cladding, you will need slats, preferably 20x40 mm. It makes no sense to use rails with a large cross section - the weight of the panel is small. In addition, rails with such a cross section are constantly available for sale in hardware stores. The rails can be fastened with plastic dowels and wood screws.

To fasten MDF panels to the frame bars, clamps are required, most often they are sold complete with panels. It will be convenient to glue the corners with liquid nails. The quality of the glue should be discussed especially - since the panels can change under the influence of moisture and temperature, the glue for them must also have some plasticity. Such characteristics of the adhesive are usually indicated on its packaging. In addition, the adhesive must have a texture that allows it to be applied in a thicker or very thin layer, depending on the curvatures on the walls. Liquid nails meet these requirements.

The installation of the crate should be carried out with a check of the evenness of the structure, for which you can use the usual building level.

Before fixing the MDF panels, you should definitely make sure that the battens are mounted - this will ultimately determine the overall appearance of the walls. Cleamers are used to fasten the panels to the crate.

Those who decide to finish with MDF panels with their own hands should not neglect the following recommendations:

If necessary, it is best to use a jigsaw to cut the panels - the cut will be even and clear. It should also be remembered here that milling, grinding and drilling panels is quite simple to perform, while the tools are the same as those used in the processing of wood materials.
In rooms with a high level of humidity, the frame is best made of a metal profile. If the crate will be made of wood, then it should be treated with high-quality antifungal impregnations.
If it is planned to finish the junction of the ceiling and walls with a plinth, then before installing the panels around the perimeter of the room, the mounting device is installed. In its groove, after the installation of the plates, a ceiling plinth is installed.
In places where hanging interior items are supposed to be placed, it will be necessary to strengthen the frame with additional bars.

Finishing with MDF panels - the order of work

The installation of the crate starts from the most convex place on the wall. The bars are mounted in a horizontal direction, with a step of no more than 40 cm. Increasing the step can lead to distortion of the pattern.

You should start fastening the planks from the corner, it is advisable to make the calculation in such a way that the last panel remains intact. Before starting installation work, you can repeat the calculations or even try on how the purchased material will lie on the wall. The spike of the first panel should be in the corner.

Along the length of each panel, you will need to use 5-6 mounting clamps. They are evenly distributed and fastened with a screwdriver to the rails. Fixing the opposite end is carried out using self-tapping screws.

In order for the self-tapping screw head to sink into the material, you must first drill a hole with a diameter of 8-10 mm in the bar. The next plank is fastened with a spike into the groove of the previous one, this procedure is repeated until the last one is installed. Each of the joints at the joints, the side and upper edges are fixed with corners, on liquid nails.

If the option of laying the panels in a horizontal or diagonal direction is chosen, then the direction of the crate should be changed - its strips should be perpendicular to the panels of the facing material.

All found significant depressions on the walls should be laid with blocks or wedges.

From below, the joints of the plates are covered with an ordinary plinth, it can be fixed with nails or planted on a sealant. For the convenience of fixing the plinth, the lower lath of the crate is fixed at the floor level. The joint under the ceiling can be decorated with a corner or a plinth.

Methods for fixing MDF boards

Methods for fixing MDF boards can be different, depending on the condition of the concrete surface on which the installation is made. If it is leveled and clean, then the panels can be glued directly to the wall using adhesive sealant.

It is applied in a zigzag across the entire board, then it is firmly pressed against the wall for a couple of seconds. If excess glue comes out, they are carefully removed with a spatula.

If a layer of insulation will be laid under the MDF boards or numerous engineering communications will have to be hidden under it, then the best option would be to install the boards on a metal frame.

If you need to hide noticeable irregularities in the wall, it is better to use a crate made of wooden beams - it will be stronger and more stable. In places where sockets or switches are installed, holes of the required diameter should be made using an electric drill.

MDF panels for the kitchen - are they the right material

You can often find a discussion on the topic of installing MDF panels in the kitchen. It is not easy to give a definite answer to it. MDF is an environmentally friendly material, it does not have an unpleasant odor, therefore it cannot cause any harm to people in the kitchen.

At the same time, the material is not moisture resistant to the extent that it would allow its unhindered installation in rooms with a high level of humidity - under the influence of water, the material may lose its attractive appearance. But it is still possible to ennoble areas remote from places where water is used, for example, a dining area, with the help of MDF boards. At the same time, it is recommended to fasten the panels to a metal profile - wood in a humid environment can suffer from fungi and putrefactive processes. In addition, experts recommend paying attention to a relatively new version of panels with a special moisture-resistant coating.

Caring for MDF boards

The period of operation of the plates will not cause much trouble. The surface of the plates is very smooth, it is well laminated and covered with paints. Cleaning of the material from contamination is carried out with a moistened soft rag; when cleaning, substances containing abrasive particles should not be used.

If during operation the peeling of the top coating of the film becomes noticeable, it can be removed with fine-grained sandpaper. Any of the damaged plates can be quite easily replaced with a new one.