If you hire a team of specialists to finish the bath inside, then it will cost by no means cheap. And then we will consider what the interior decoration of the bath with our own hands means in stages.
Of course, the material is expensive and the work is painstaking, but you can save at least several times. The main thing is to choose the right quality material and know the technology.
First you need to know and understand that the decoration of baths plays a special role:
- The service life of the bath significantly extends.
- Protects people from burns due to heated walls.
- It plays an important role in decoration.
The main stage - the choice of finishing material
For the interior decoration of the bath, all materials must have the following qualities:
- Resistant to high humidity and water ingress.
- Durability and strength.
- Hygiene.
- Pleasant to the eye color and decorative effect.
- No burns and allergies in contact with human skin.
- 100% toxin free.
Naturally, in this regard, a tree is ideal, which has all of the above qualities, easily gives and absorbs moisture, is completely safe and environmentally friendly for the human body.
But a good finish of the baths inside with your own hands is a high-quality lining in the first place. After all, if you buy it overdried and do not even keep it in the bath itself for a day, it will begin to swell during the procedures, due to the fact that it is saturated with water and increases in volume. And when buying raw, large gaps will appear after shrinkage.
Steam room, the better to finish
If we talk about the steam room, then the decoration inside the bath with your own hands in it, as a rule, was carried out using hardwood:
- Poplar.
- Linden.
- Larch.
- Aspen.
- Birch.
Because as soon as this wood does not heat up during the heat and does not emit resins. Plus, when airing the bath, it dries pretty quickly, and therefore it is not threatened by fungus. Often, steam rooms and saunas are sheathed with ash from the inside - this is a material that is resistant and resistant to decay and has good durability..
Floor finish
All interior work should begin with flooring. If it is wooden, then first of all it is necessary to lay log logs from one wall to another. The floor must be made leaky so that the water goes into the ground underneath.
If you want, then lay tiles on it. Tiles begin to be laid from the corner that catches the eye first. The tile is laid on a special tile adhesive, then leveled and pressed tightly, it is recommended to use separating crosses between the tiles, after drying they are easy to remove.
Ceiling and wall decoration
It is necessary to protect moisture with a vapor barrier material, reinforcing it with wooden slats. Then you should make an air cushion, between the lining and the vapor barrier, small bars are suitable for this.
The outlet of the pipe in the ceiling must be lined with iron or brick in order to prevent a possible fire. Choose boards for ceiling sheathing with a thickness of 20-30 mm.
Walls after complete shrinkage of the bath can be caulked where there are cracks. After that, it is possible to lay thermal insulation (polystyrene foam, foam plastic, chipboard, fiberboard), and vapor barrier (foil materials or plastic film).
Use high-quality lining for wall cladding inside. Adjust the boards to each other tightly, pinning them vertically.
Experienced attendants for washing are advised to use spruce lining, it has a pleasant orange color and resistance to moisture.
Although the most diverse material is suitable for finishing the washing:
- Drywall.
- Tile.
- Gypsum fiber.
- Moisture resistant fiberboard.
Here everyone chooses according to his taste.
Living room decoration
In the bath, pine trim is used, in the rest room and in the washing room - the temperature there is relatively low. It has a very different color - from reddish to pale yellow, availability and ease of processing, and high quality in terms of strength.
And what’s good is those resins, because of which it cannot be used in a steam room, make this material especially resistant to damage and decay. In addition, pine is easy to polish, paint and varnish.
It is also possible to make interior decoration with spruce clapboard; recently it has become much better in terms of moisture resistance and strength. In addition, there is much less resin in spruce than in pine, but it is also more difficult to process.
Note!
Pine lining cannot be used in a steam room, due to its excessive heating and resin release on the surface.
Finishing process step by step
- Stage 1. It is necessary to bring everything required for finishing into the bath and leave it there for at least a day so that the material acclimatizes.
- Stage 2. Make a crate of bars for lining.
- Stage 3. Installation of steam and heat insulation.
- Stage 4. Installation of wooden panels - from linden, aspen or other hardwoods.
Even at high temperatures, these panels will not leave burns on human skin, moreover, at high heat, they release substances useful for the body into the air. They can be mounted horizontally, vertically and diagonally.
For their fastening, special copper or bronze nails are needed, since the usual ones will quickly rust due to high humidity, the installation is carried out by inserting into the panel groove.
We hope that this little guide will help you in the future.
Summarize
So we have considered how to finish the bath on our own and its price will be much lower. If something is not clear, we recommend that you watch the video in this article.
High-quality finishing of the bath with your own hands is possible only if suitable materials are used during its implementation, and also subject to the correct sequence of work.
There are no special tricks in the process, but installation errors are, nevertheless, quite common. So that you can avoid the unpleasant consequences of such errors, we will try to give a fairly detailed algorithm of work.
Selection of materials
Before we finish the bath with our own hands, we must purchase everything you need. Therefore, even before the start of installation activities, it is necessary to decide what materials will be involved. The range here is very extensive, therefore in the article we will consider the most effective option from our point of view.
The interior decoration of the walls of the bath should provide not only a beautiful appearance of the premises. It is very important that the walls do not allow heat to pass through, and moisture does not get inside the enclosing structures. Based on this, we will select all the details of our decoration.
We will need:
- Board lining. Ideal for wall decoration. Natural wood tolerates both moistening and heating well, therefore there are practically no alternatives to lining when finishing a steam room or sauna.
Advice!
When choosing wood, you need to pay attention to the resin content.
For example, no matter how attractive the price of a pine board may be, it cannot be used for our purposes: as soon as we heat the bathhouse, the tree will immediately begin to “cry”.
- Wooden bars to form the frame. For these purposes, you can use pine and other resinous species, since the frame will be hidden under the skin. We will need thicker elements with a cross section of at least 50x50 mm, and thin rails of about 10x20 mm.
- Thermal insulation material with high temperature resistance. The best choice would be foil or pressed mats made of mineral fiber or basalt wool. Cheaper glass wool will not work - at elevated temperatures, its fibers sinter, losing their energy-saving properties.
- Vapor barrier foil material. If it is not possible to purchase mineral wool with a metal coating (it is quite expensive), you should additionally fix it on reinforced foil. It will reflect heat rays and protect against waterlogging.
- Reinforced aluminum tape. Used to connect foil panels without gaps.
In addition, we will need fasteners for all these materials, as well as finishing details - skirting boards, moldings, etc. It is desirable that these parts are made of the same wood as the lining itself: this way they will expand more evenly when heated, and we will avoid the appearance of cracks.
Sheathing technology
Warming
Finishing the sauna with your own hands without fail provides for insulation and vapor barrier of the walls. So, firstly, we will save the heat received from the stove and reduce heating costs, and secondly, we will normalize the humidity regime and protect heat-insulating materials from water.
The work is carried out according to the following scheme:
- On the walls of the room with the help of anchor bolts or long self-tapping screws we fasten the bars 50x50 cm, forming a crate. The placement of the bars is determined by the position of the skin elements, which we will discuss a little later.
Advice!
Thinner bars can also be used, but in this case, support pads must be placed under them.
This is done in order to provide the necessary clearance for the placement of insulation.
- We lay mineral wool mats in the cells of the crate. The thickness of the mats is largely determined by our needs and financial capabilities. But in any case, do-it-yourself finishing of the steam room of the bath should be carried out using thermal insulation with a thickness of at least 50-75 mm on the walls, and 100-150 mm on.
- Instead of mineral wool, expanded clay can be poured on the floor between the lags. In this case, a layer of material needs to be made with a thickness of about 30 cm: expanded clay is quite cheap, so this will only slightly affect the budget.
- We roll out reinforced foil over the mineral wool, fixing it on the crate with steel staples using a stapler. We glue the joints of the canvases with a metallized tape.
- We nail a counter-lattice of thin wooden slats through. Its main task is to create a gap for efficient air circulation between the skin and the insulation. If this is not done, then sooner or later the sheathing boards will be affected by the fungus.
We also cover the insulation between the lags with waterproofing material. As an alternative to foil film, polyethylene or kraft paper can be used.
The choice of lining placement
After completing the measures for arranging the heat-insulating layer, you can proceed with the installation of the plank sheathing.
And here it is important to choose the orientation of the board correctly:
- The lining, located vertically, has one significant plus: dust, dirt and moisture practically do not accumulate in the seams between the boards.
- However, this option has much more disadvantages, and they are mainly due to uneven heating of the board: the upper part expands much more than the lower part, and therefore cracks appear in the skin over time. And the lack of a tight connection leads to the ingress of a large amount of moisture behind the skin - hence the rotting of wood and fungal diseases.
- By fixing the lining in the bath horizontally, we ensure its most uniform heating - so we can minimize the deformation of the wall.
- To avoid the accumulation of moisture in the locks, you should place the parts with the groove down, while the water will simply drain along the sheathed wall.
Note! The bottom row of horizontal planking begins to rot much earlier than all other boards. Therefore, it must either be replaced periodically, or at least once every few months, impregnated with antiseptics.
Completion of installation
- The lining, previously impregnated with a moisture-proof and bactericidal composition, is cut to the size of the room.
- Installation starts from top to bottom. We apply the board to the beams of the crate and level it with the help of a level and a plumb line.
- We drive thin nails into the groove located below, fixing the board on the frame. Instead of nails, you can use steel clips-clamps, which greatly facilitate and speed up installation.
- We introduce the next spike into the groove of the fixed board and fix it using the same technology.
- We continue the sheathing until we reach the floor. The bottom board will have to be sawn lengthwise so that a deformation gap of at least 5 mm is formed between the sheathing and the floor.
According to this scheme, it is possible to finish not only the steam room, but also a shower room, dressing room, rest room, etc. Naturally, when working with these rooms, it is necessary to lay a smaller layer of insulation, since the need for energy saving will not be so relevant.
Conclusion
Finishing the bath with your own hands, carried out according to the proposed scheme, ensures the long-term preservation of a comfortable microclimate in the room. In addition, compliance with the above recommendations is insurance against the formation of fungus and rotting of the skin. The video in this article contains additional information, which is also worth reading before getting started.
If you have already completed the construction of the bath, then it's time to decide what will be its interior decoration. It is worth noting that the design should be not only functional, but also beautiful, and more importantly, durable. Given this circumstance, you should find out how best to line the interior of the bath, starting from the ceiling and ending with the floor. Finishing work should be taken seriously, because your comfortable rest will depend on their quality.
Material selection
Now on sale there is a huge amount of building materials with which you can decorate different rooms with your own hands. It is best to stay on wooden materials. Why? It's simple, because it is wood that is a natural material that meets the sanitary and hygienic requirements for finishing rooms with high humidity and temperature.
In the implementation of internal cladding, the main role is played by the choice of material for the ceiling and walls of the bath. You don't have to limit yourself to just one type of tree. Combinations of different types of wood will look more harmonious. In addition, it is worth considering the individual properties of this environmentally friendly natural material. Unlike its synthetic analogues, wood does not emit harmful substances during the heating process. It has excellent characteristics, is a durable material, retains heat and has a small coefficient of thermal expansion. In the old days in Russia, only certain types of wood were used for interior decoration of baths. Among them were cedar, linden and larch. Today, many experts have begun to recommend the use of the abachi tree. It has excellent properties and is ideal for interior decoration. A significant drawback of the material is the high cost, so not everyone can afford such a luxury.
In order to save money, you can use more inexpensive varieties for finishing work in the dressing room and rest room. There are no high temperatures, so pine is quite suitable here. The texture of the material is attractive, pine is processed very easily and is relatively inexpensive. The use of pine in the steam room is impossible for the reason that when the wood is heated, resin is released from it, which causes a lot of inconvenience. Most often, as practice shows, washing and steam rooms are lined with larch and linden. These types of wood perfectly retain color and do not heat up much when temperatures rise. If you touch such a skin, you will not get burned.
It is also important to think about how to make shelves in the bath. They are needed so that you can arrange all the necessary accessories and accessories. If the bath room is small, then do not clutter it with a large number of these items, because this way, you will only increase the possibility of injury when taking procedures in the bath.
- Cedar resistant to moisture and heat. In the process of heating, the wood releases the aromas of essential oils, which are so beneficial to the human body. But if you decide to choose this material, then pay attention to possible resin smudges.
- Abashi native to the West African tropics. The material has low thermal conductivity, practically does not heat up at high temperatures. Color is a pleasant yellowish. The texture is not pronounced, homogeneous.
- Linden when heated, as most masters know, it releases essential oils that have a pleasant delicate aroma that has a beneficial effect on a person. Linden does not darken even over time. It is often used for finishing washing and steam rooms.
- Larch perfectly tolerates extreme changes in temperature and humidity, present in the steam room and washing. Differs in a rich tint palette and natural gloss. If you need to sheathe the ceiling, then edged or tongue-and-groove larch boards are best suited for this. If you choose needles for this purpose, then it is likely that when heated, resin will be released from it, which, when drained from the ceiling, will burn the skin.
- Aspen does not rot, is not affected by fermentation fungi and mold. This tree species has a positive effect on health: it relieves discomfort in the joints and headaches. She most often trim the ceiling in the bath.
Note! Wood for interior cladding must not be varnished or painted. Otherwise, when heated, the chemical coatings will evaporate, poisoning the air.
Wall and ceiling decoration in the steam room
For a steam room, you should not skimp, here the interior decoration of the bath should be carried out from the highest quality wood, because it is in this place that the highest temperatures and humidity are. As a rule, the steam room is upholstered with clapboard. Boards are fastened with flush nails. Steam insulation work is necessary to keep steam and heat in this room. This is done using modern materials that are widely available on the market. It can be glassine or foil, and jute and cotton wool are most often used as insulation. It is possible to replace these standard materials with their combined analogue, for example, foamed polypropylene covered with foil. It combines vapor barrier and thermal insulation properties. Another option: foil penofol. With it, you can seal the room, in addition, the material is convenient and practical for installation.
Note! The lining should not be adjacent to the layer of foil with insulation closely. There must be an air gap between them. This is usually achieved due to the fact that the lining is mounted on a timber crate installed in advance.
The crate is mounted on the walls parallel to the floor. The distance between the slats is approximately 50 cm. All work must be carried out on a level in order to obtain a perfectly even structure. After the frame is ready, it should be covered with an antiseptic. It is also necessary to process the lining, this is done before the start of its installation. Laying lining starts from the corner. Not only nails, but also clamps and staples can be used as fasteners.
The material that is used for wall decoration is also used for upholstery of the ceiling. It is worth noting that the maximum temperature is under the ceiling, so the wall paneling for it should be made of rock that contains the least amount of resin. Otherwise, as mentioned above in the article, dripping resins will burn people. You can not use pine and spruce for the steam room. They can upholster a dressing room, for example.
Floor arrangement. Wood or tile?
The temperature at floor level very rarely exceeds 30°C, which means that such floors can remain clay, earth and concrete. The main thing is that a quick outflow of water from the bathhouse is organized. For safe movement, it is necessary to cover the subfloor with plank flooring, fiber matting or a cork safety cover. A sanded board and tile can also be used for this purpose.
Note! If we compare the properties of tiles and boards, then the first material, of course, is more durable than the second. Tiles are not afraid of high humidity. In addition, the wooden floor will look dirty, as it is difficult to clean.
The technology of wood flooring is very simple. First, you should lay the logs, and then install the wooden boards. Logs are laid on brick columns installed on a concrete or sandy base. The size of these logs can be 20 × 20 or 25 × 25 cm. The laying step can be close to one meter, because the floor will not be subjected to heavy loads. For the floor, a cut or tongue-and-groove board can be used. In order to keep the heat in the steam room, the floor covering in it must be at least 15 cm above the floor level in the washing room. The thickness of the floorboards is approximately 30 cm. Both the boards and the logs must first be treated with an antiseptic, which will prevent growth of mold and fungus.
Note! The wooden floor is appropriate in the rest rooms and locker rooms. However, it is better to lay tiles in the washing room and steam room, because the wood will quickly deteriorate.
To lay tiles, you must first make a floor screed. The surface should be as flat as possible. The tile is laid on a special glue. Moisture-resistant grout is used to process the seams. This will protect the tile from mold. However, on such a floor, you will still need to put low wooden shields or gratings, which should be taken out after the bath procedures so that they dry out. This is necessary so that no one slips. The floor should be made with a slight slope for draining. In this case, excess moisture will not stagnate.
Wash room finishing
The modern washing compartment is a shower cabin, which is equipped with several shelves for folding small accessories. For the arrangement of the washing room, moisture-resistant finishing materials should be used, for example, tiles, self-leveling floors and tiles. They are durable and strong. In order to prevent visitors from slipping on the tiles, rubber mats or wooden slatted supports should be used in the washing room.
If you are an admirer of the classic Russian bath, then the washing room can be finished with wood that has undergone special processing. The temperatures here are not as high as in the steam room. Therefore, coniferous wood can be used for the washing room and dressing room.
You can carry out interior decoration on your own, without the help of specialists. After you have done the ceilings, floors and walls, you will also need to make furniture for the bath and think over the lighting. And then proceed to the bath procedures, enjoy ablutions, enjoying the rest with family and friends. If you have any other thoughts or questions on this topic, then write comments on this article. The specialists working on the site will be able to pay attention to you and answer all your questions.
Video
See how the bath is sheathed inside with an unedged board - an inexpensive, but nice option:
A photo
From time immemorial, not only the Slavs, but also the Finnish, Ugric and even nomadic tribes have made a considerable contribution to the creation, which eventually began to be called "Russian bath". In those days, the technology was very simple: a massive frame was used, which did not have any heaters inside. In our technological world, this option is not very practical, since it will take a significant amount of firewood and a lot of time to heat the bath. Once upon a time, wood was the cheapest material - now it is no longer so. A modern bath is easier to sheathe. There is enough information and photos for this. How to make it inexpensive and beautiful? This will be discussed further.
What lining for the bath to use and is it needed at all? An important question for owners of steam rooms. Let's first understand what functions it performs. The main task of the sheathing is to reduce the consumption of heat energy and reduce the burning time from 4 to 1-1.5 hours. Although, perhaps, this does not apply to baths, competently built according to old technologies - from a single bar. In this case, no heaters are required. However, the construction costs will be completely different.
Steam room from solid timber So, when choosing a material, first of all, you need to think about the properties that it should have. Of course, it must be non-flammable, vapor-resistant and, of course, harmless to your health. It is not recommended to use non-natural materials for cladding the internal walls of the bath.
The favorite material for interior decoration is lining, a little less often they prefer a block house that is spectacular in its appearance, or only magnelite that is developing on the market. What do you prefer anyway? Let's consider all the options in more detail.
Clapboard lining
Lining among builders is associated with beauty, practicality and reasonable cost. High quality wall paneling partially regulates the air humidity in the steam room, prevents the appearance of fungal mold and condensate, and allows the walls to "breathe".
Advice. There is a little secret when choosing a lining, which can significantly reduce the cost of its purchase. Very often, on the building materials market, lining up to 1.5 m long is much cheaper than from 2 m and above. And sheathing a bath with a material of this length is quite simple - you just need to make a rail in the middle.
Most often, lining is preferable for finishing the interior of the bath, as it has a number of undoubted advantages:
- Saves heat. Lining significantly reduces heat leakage, respectively, and the amount of firewood used (electricity, gas).
- It gives the room an aesthetic appearance, hiding communications and uneven finishes.
- Prevents the formation of dampness.
- Long serves.
Steam room lined with clapboard You should also seriously approach the choice of wood for lining, because the level of reliability of the material and the degree of financial costs depend on it.
- Linden- ideal for a steam room. The essential oils it secretes have a disinfecting, anti-inflammatory effect. It enhances perspiration without burning the skin and respiratory tract due to low thermal conductivity.
- A less financially costly alternative to linden will be aspen. It draws out diseases from the body, is not subject to decay after prolonged contact with water. This tree is very soft, it is cut without problems.
- The best option for shower walls will be larch. It has a positive effect on well-being, increases resistance to infections. And floors from this tree will be exclusively strong and reliable. Even various small rodents and a bug will not be afraid of them.
- The leader in strength among tree species is undoubtedly white stock. It is even stronger than oak and will only get stronger with time. Acacia is not subject to deformation and decay. Products made from this wood will be very durable and wear-resistant, so acacia is perfect for finishing doors and floors in a steam room.
Choosing a block house
Block house for a bath - the best combination of price and quality. This material is so close in its external characteristics to a log house that it is almost impossible to distinguish a bath sheathed with a block house from a log one. This material undergoes special drying, so it is not afraid of deformation or cracks. But periodic (once every few years) bactericidal treatment is still desirable.
block house There is a classification of a block house according to the degree of quality:
- Class "C" - low quality material, processed only superficially. Various kinds of deformations are allowed (cracks, bark remnants, etc.);
- Class "B" - medium quality block house, allowing only a limited amount of deformation (small cracks, knots up to 3 cm, etc.);
- Class "A" - perfectly processed material, without any irregularities (with the exception of small knots - up to 3 cm);
- "Extra" class - the highest level of material quality with perfect surface finish.
For the interior decoration of the bath, a block house of the last two classes is recommended. As a material for the block house, hardwood and softwood are used, with the exception of spruce and pine (since they have high thermal conductivity and can cause burns when touched).
Advice. In no case should you use chipboard and fiberboard in a steam room, since they release toxins when heated.
MAGELAN
A self-confident newcomer to the building materials market is a glass-magnesium sheet. It is made from fine wood shavings, magnesium and other components reinforced with fiberglass mesh. This is an acceptable, but not the best material for interior decoration. However, certain advantages of this material cannot be denied:
- Immune to temperature changes and burning.
- Does not rot and is immune to moisture
- Easy to mount.
Magellan glass sheet In this material, we have introduced you to the possible options for finishing the interior of the bath, ranging from natural wood to modern materials. Now, knowing about the advantages of certain materials, it will be easier for you to make a choice depending on your wishes and financial capabilities.
The interior decoration of the bath requires a clear algorithm of thoughtful actions. Firstly, it is necessary to determine the purpose of the premises, and secondly, with the conditions of its operation. Only then can you choose the right design concept and suitable materials.
To make “a bath like a neighbor’s” or “like in a picture from a magazine” without taking into account your realities is not just a mistake, it is an extra waste of effort, time, money and, alas, health.
An attempt to clad the inner walls of the steam room not with solid wood, but with a laminate (or even not with an array of hardwood, but with an array of pine), or to make a tiled floor without prior insulation is fraught with trouble.
The article will show and tell you how to make the decoration of the bath most correctly and efficiently.
Necessary materials
Hardwoods have a low heat capacity, due to which the room warms up faster. Such wood does not emit resin.
- Hardwood lumber (non-stationary coniferous furniture can be used for a rest room), shredded board;
- Impregnation for wood based on natural oils;
- Heat-vapor-insulating material (mineral wool, foam plastic for thermal insulation of the floor under the screed, membranes, foil);
- Heat-resistant brick; heat resistant cement adhesive;
- Clay;
- Furnace (preferably metal welded);
- Luminaires and - copper wire of large cross section, with good insulation;
- Sockets, switches - made of heat-resistant plastic, with protective shields. It is best to purchase a specialized lamp for a steam room. Fiber optic lighting systems are the safest and most convenient; various backlights can be used. The wiring diagram should be as simple as possible. The main thing is to protect the wiring from moisture and overheating, so it’s better to hide it in the wall strobes or do it behind the lining in the middle third of the wall (the temperature is too high under the ceiling, high humidity near the floor);
- Facing material - natural or artificial stone, ceramic tiles.
When buying materials for finishing a bath inside, you should not save money, since it depends on them how comfortable it will be to bathe in a new bath.
Can not use:
- metal
- plastic
- plywood
- thin glass
- coniferous wood
- synthetic wood impregnation
steam room
Floors and foundation
Good waterproofing of foundations is also important, not only from “external”, soil water, but also from internal leaks.
The basis of the bath is. A building with extreme temperature and its large differences in different rooms is a huge load on the foundation. Don't skimp on it.
Good is also important, and not only from “external”, soil water, but also from internal leaks (after all, a bath is a very “wet” room). In no case should waste water fall on the foundation and subfloor.
steam room- this is a zone of extremely high temperatures, any section of the wall that is poorly protected by thermal insulation, for example, a window, will require an increase in the power of the furnace, and the cost of operating the bath will increase. For economic reasons, the stove heats all the premises of the bath, leaving one part to the washing room (where, as a rule, the water tank is located), the other - the actual heater - to the steam room.
Naturally, the foundation is poured taking into account the size and planned temperature of the stove: for a Russian bath, the stove gives one temperature regime, for a Finnish one it is completely different.
The stove is lined with refractory bricks on a clay mortar, at the same time laying out of bricks and a partition between the steam room and the washing room. The stove can serve as a full-fledged element of decor, with an unusual screen design, various options for installing a brazier, and stone cladding.
The floor may be clay (for aesthetes-reenactors), but when wet it becomes very slippery. It is better to make a wooden or lined floor laid on a rough concrete screed.
The concrete floor in the bath (both in the steam room and in the washing room) must be thermally insulated:
- On the draft concrete floor - plastic wrap;
- Then they put a layer of mineral wool, expanded clay (they will require the installation of a log) or sheet foam with a sheet thickness of 5-10 cm. M;
- The second layer of vapor barrier (the bottom layer is sometimes wrapped so as to completely cover the end sides of the foam, and the top layer is glued). If the film is narrow, its strips are overlapped and the joints are also glued;
- Then everything is poured with concrete on a reinforcing mesh (mesh cell on average 10x10 cm), the thickness of the screed is 4-5 cm, then with a finishing leveling mixture.
When pouring the floor, it is necessary to provide a slope for water flow and install a receiving pipe that discharges wastewater into the sewer. This is especially important if tiles are installed directly on the screed. This technology allows the floor to always remain warm. For laying tiles and stone in the steam room, use a heat-resistant tile adhesive, such as glue for fireplaces or underfloor heating.
The best floor for a steam room is bisque tiles, porcelain stoneware, unpolished natural stone.
The optimal choice of flooring for a steam room is biscuit tiles, porcelain stoneware, smooth but unpolished natural stone. It is better not to use ceramics with glazed coatings, they heat up quickly and slip a lot. You can put rubber mats on the floor (undesirable, rubber is still a synthetic material) or wooden crates (slightly better, but when there is a lot of steam in the room, you can get injured if you stumble). You can lay the floor of a steam room from a grooved board.
steam room walls
The walls are sheathed with hardwood clapboard - aspen, linden, alder, abachi, preferably not spliced.
The dividing wall between the steam room and the washing room can be made of wood, it is only important that the part of the wall adjacent to the stove is brick. The door in it is cut so that the steam does not get into the washing room and is not wasted.
Ventilation is traditionally performed in the form of an outlet window with a valve, between the steam room and the washing room, less often in the street wall. The ventilation of the room is combined or completely mechanical, forced.
When finishing the bath, the walls are caulked inside, if necessary, leveled and insulated - preferably with mineral wool or foil (when heated, these substances do not emit harmful substances). The foil also acts as a vapor barrier. The walls are sheathed with hardwood clapboard - aspen, linden, alder, abachi, preferably not spliced (because they are spliced, though in a spike, but with synthetic glue). Boards with knots should not be taken - knots fall out from the temperature difference and heat.
When sheathing, it is desirable to avoid any metal parts, they get very hot, damage the wood and can cause a burn in a person. As an exception, lining can be sewn on furniture. The bath, the interior of which is made of wood, can withstand 10-15 years of operation.
Wiring device
For the bath, only high-quality insulated copper wire is used. There are no sockets and switches in the steam room, they are located in the next room. The wire goes through the wall exclusively to the lamp or exhaust fan, the lamp must be hermetically sealed.
ceilings
Thermal insulation of the ceiling with synthetic vapor barrier membranes is completely excluded
Ceilings are thermally insulated with mineral wool, foil and sheathed with boards. The hottest air is collected at the top, so high-quality boards must be used there, thermal insulation with synthetic vapor barrier membranes is completely excluded. If a false ceiling is sewn up in a room where there is already a rough ceiling (felted ceiling), the lining will have to be sewn to the ceiling crate with a stapler, and a thick bar is additionally strengthened along the perimeter instead of the ceiling plinth - it holds the ceiling boards. The beam can carry a functional load (hooks for hanging inventory and towels) or be purely decorative.
Additionally, false beams are used to fasten the flooring, resting against the grooves of the frieze beam. If the ceiling is made "from scratch", you can lay the lining in a pseudo-medieval style on the square section of the beam from above, in this case, additional fasteners can be omitted. On top of the deck the ceiling must be steam and heat insulated with foil, mineral wool, expanded clay or perlite(penofol and glass wool cannot be used!). If there is no second floor, then the insulation must be able to be ventilated.
Important: a suspended metal reflective screen is required above the furnace.
Furniture
Usually furniture is made of wood "steps".
The furniture in the steam room is the shelves. Usually they are made of “steps” made of wood or tiled, or according to the principle of a carriage compartment - the lower level is stationary, the top two are on hinges.
You can decorate the steam room by modifying the standard furniture. Shelves can be arranged in a “zigzag”, “fan”, “compartment”, get rid of right angles, introduce carving or annealing, choose the color of wood and the pattern of ligation of tiles.
washing department
floors
The principle of flooring in the washing room is similar - the floor must also be warm, moisture resistant, non-slippery and have a slope for water flow. But its operating conditions are slightly different: the air temperature in the room is lower, there is less steam, but water (moreover, soapy) flows directly onto the floor, which serves as an additional chemical load on the coating and makes it slippery.
High humidity and temperature in the range of 20-45 degrees are ideal for the development of microflora, which is almost absent in the steam room. Therefore, in the washroom they try to avoid easily rotting wooden floors and gratings and prefer to lay out the floor with very rough ceramic or stone tiles. At the same time, you can arrange terraces and "pallets", create a mosaic set, as in ancient Roman baths. The issue of washing is solved by the "marine" method with the help of a hard mop, detergent and a jet of water from a hose.
A compromise will be the use of a decking board.
Bath wall decoration
Usually, decorative tiling or glass mosaics are made on a concrete base, which greatly facilitates maintenance and disinfection in a room with high humidity. It is also possible to finish the walls of the bath with clapboard, which provides high waterproofing.
Particular attention should be paid to the waterproofing of the skin. With poor waterproofing, condensation can accumulate under it, which leads to the destruction of wood.
In the washing room, mirrors built into the wall look good and are functional.
In the washing room, mirrors built into the wall look good and are functional - both full-length and small decorative ones in the form of a frieze, inserts, mosaics. The tiles on the wall adjacent to the steam room are mounted on heat-resistant tile adhesive, on other walls and floors you will need glue with increased moisture resistance. Be sure to close the seams between the tiles with sealants, waterproof the joints of the floor and walls.
The design is ideal, combining the floor, walls and furniture into a single whole. Part of the furniture can be made built-in - seats, a washing surface, it is also a warm sofa bed near the stove. A tank for warm water built into such a surface, designed as a Japanese sitting pool, looks very convenient and stylish. Usually it is made in the form of a cylindrical or oval "barrel" with an internal step-seat, lined with decorative tiles from the inside. Since this sit-down bath is deep, the bottom will be almost at floor level, and a drain tap can be made there. You can raise the bath higher, arrange a few steps. This will give originality to the finish. Portable furniture can be plastic or wooden, it must often be taken out, washed, and dried.
ceilings
The ceiling is traditionally made of lining (linden, alder), hemmed. In this room, there are no longer such extreme temperatures, so penofol, mineral wool, glass wool, polystyrene foam can be used as a heat insulator. The insulation technology is conventional, it is important to provide a double vapor barrier and an air gap between it and the lining.
You can simply make a concrete screed over the insulation and tile the ceiling. It is important that there is a suspended reflective metal screen above the stove, at a height of at least 10 cm from the ceiling.
Dressing room and lounge
floors
In terms of microclimate, these rooms practically do not differ from ordinary living quarters, so there are no special subtleties in the decoration. Insulation and vapor barrier are needed insofar as the room adjacent to the washing department and the steam room should ensure that the building does not have jumps in humidity, temperature changes at different walls and heat loss.
The floor for the dressing room should be made of a floorboard or parquet board, which is pleasant to walk barefoot on.
The floor can be made by anyone, but if you adhere to the principle of environmental friendliness, it is worth making it from a floor or parquet board, which is pleasant to walk on barefoot, or warm, tiled (it’s good to arrange warm floors with a copper pipe through which hot water flows from a container in the stove , not difficult). Since the stove heats the steam room and washing room, why not heat the floor in the dressing room as well?
Walls and ceilings
A sufficiently dry room allows using any material for finishing after steam-heat insulation. However, it is better to take moisture resistant. Walls can be decoratively plastered, painted or revetted. However, wood paneling is more often used for both walls and ceilings.
When sheathing (whether horizontal or vertical), waterproofing will be required with the installation of a frame (70 cm step). If the wall is made of brick or timber, 50x50 mm bars are enough. The beam is leveled in one plane. Styrofoam insulation can be laid between the bars - it simultaneously provides additional support to the sheathing. The bottom board of the lining is set to the level with the spike up. The next board is put on the spike of the bottom board and knocked out for a strong connection (for this you need to make a plank with a groove from a piece of the same lining), otherwise the grooves will then diverge.
Traditionally, the lining is fastened with 50–60 mm galvanized nails, with a reduced or removed head. They are driven a little obliquely down into the base of the spike. You can use a furniture stapler with a large staple, but here it is no longer so important to minimize the amount of metal. A board put on a spike will hide the fasteners. Clamps in the bath, even in the rest room, it is better not to use.
Rattan furniture perfectly withstands the microclimate in the bath.
The furniture of the dressing room and the rest room is usually bar wooden furniture or rattan, which can withstand the microclimate of the bath well. The only condition for her is the requirement to be easily disinfected, not to absorb moisture. Naturally, upholstered furniture in such a room will constantly “get wet”, taking moisture from the air into the stuffing. It is convenient to use folding and stationary chairs made of polished (can be varnished) solid wood, with anatomical seats and backs, benches, a table for the rest room. Lockers and chests made of solid wood will look great in the dressing room.
An important element will be a wardrobe, a massage couch with a bedside table and a screen. Absolutely necessary in the rest room are full-length mirrors, you can use a trellis type, several sockets (for connecting a hair dryer, an electric razor, a trimmer), and lighting with the ability to highlight different areas of the room.
