The staircase is straight wooden to the second floor. Do-it-yourself staircase to the second floor: drawings and a diagram of the construction of a wooden and a staircase on a metal frame. Technical requirements for the design and correct calculation of parameters

The material from which the stairs are made can be different - wood, iron, concrete, or a combination of these materials. But most often, wood is used to build stairs.

Any structure must be safe for movement on it. To do this, before building a staircase, it is necessary to perform its calculations, based on what type of staircase design is expected.

To calculate a wooden staircase, do the following:

  1. Determine the height of the interfloor space, from floor to ceiling, taking into account the interfloor overlap, and determine the area that will be allocated for the stairs.
  2. Determine the number of steps in a staircase based on their tread depth, riser height, and stair angle. Usually the height of the riser is 150 - 200 mm, and the optimal width of the riser is usually 250 - 320 mm.
  3. The height of the clearance between the horizontal plane of the steps and the lowest part of the ceiling structure should also be taken into account, this is necessary so that a person, when going up or down the stairs, does not touch the ceiling structures with his head.

General examples of drawings for a wooden staircase

Before making any drawings in dwg format, you must select the type of stairs.

It is necessary to perform certain measurements and calculations, and determine the general parameters of the stairs:

  1. The angle of the stairs, this parameter is usually in the range of 23 - 37 degrees.
  2. The minimum height between the ceiling and steps must be at least 2 m.
  3. The width of the stairs itself must be at least 1 meter.

After determining all the parameters, you need to draw a room plan, on which it is necessary to mark the location of the stairs and all its dimensions with reference to the room plan. Separately, it is worth making a general drawing of the entire staircase for a better understanding of all the necessary parameters.

All drawings can be made by hand, but in order to avoid mistakes, it is best to make all drawings online using a special calculator.

If a person finds it difficult to independently create a drawing of a staircase, you can use ready-made drawings and diagrams of stairs by printing them and choose the best option. But, it is necessary to do this even at the stage of building a house, since it will be difficult to select a drawing for a finished building.

Detailed and general description of the online calculation of wooden stairs

To calculate all the necessary parameters for creating with your own hands, you need to take all the dimensions, such as the height between the floors, the area that will be allotted for the stairs, its angle of inclination, the length of the opening, the number of steps.

To calculate wooden stairs, it is best to use special online calculators or special utilities:

  1. Various utilities also allow you to calculate, view, including in 3D format, and, if necessary, edit everything, and redo all diagrams and drawings. You can even create a diagram of the whole house in such utilities, as well as draw a staircase and see how everything will look on a virtual layout.
  2. When, you need to decide on the type of stairs, it can be single-flight, double-flight, spiral, stairs with a 180-degree turntable, etc. and each type of stairs requires its own calculation.

That is why you should use special online calculators or special utilities, which are much more profitable and easier even for novice builders.

The basis of the drawing for a ladder made of wood

The main advantage of a wooden staircase is its relative lightness, environmental friendliness, besides, wood is easy to process, and a wooden staircase will look optimal in a country wooden house.

But, before you make a staircase to the second floor of the house, you need to make a drawing of the stairs, which will take into account all the parameters:

  1. Based on the drawings, the marking of wooden blanks is made, from which the staircase will subsequently be assembled. All dimensions that will be on paper are transferred to blanks, and they are sawn according to the markings.
  2. But, before you make drawings and engage in sawing the material and subsequent assembly of the stairs, you should evaluate your strengths, since not everyone can correctly draw up a drawing and correctly cut all the material.

Before making a drawing, it is necessary to measure the place in the room where the staircase will be located. This is the height from floor to ceiling, the width of the ceiling, you should also take into account the type of stairs, the angle of its inclination, the fastening system, etc.

Without these data, it will be almost impossible to make a drawing of a staircase, and even more so, to make it.

The principle of drawing up a drawing of a wooden staircase to the second floor

Houses are built two-story, three-story, and, to move between floors, it is necessary to equip a staircase.

The manufacture of any staircase begins with determining its type, it can be:

  • Spiral or spiral staircase, single-flight classical staircase, double-flight with a turn, etc.;
  • Also, the staircase, in addition to its main function of lifting or lowering, can be almost invisible in the room, or, on the contrary, stand out in the interior, and even serve as a decorative decoration.

Therefore, before you start, you need to select its type, after that you should schematically draw a house plan, the staircase itself and see how this or that type of staircase will look on the diagram. If everything suits a person, you can start creating detailed drawings of the stairs.

When creating a drawing, one should take into account all previously made measurements, the angle of inclination, the width and height of the steps, the width of the staircase itself, if it is supposed to make a fence, then it should also be shown in the drawing.

Schemes and drawings for the manufacture of wooden stairs with their own hands

The staircase is an essential element of houses, it provides a connection between floors, and the staircase must also provide comfortable movement along it, be safe and fit into the interior of the room. Planning and building a staircase should be based on building codes, and accurate calculation and drawings are also necessary, since if this is not done, then later, during manufacture, errors may be detected.

The nuances that will prevent the redoing of the entire structure, the unnecessary consumption of materials and time:

  1. Before creating drawings, you need to decide on the type of stairs, look at different examples, and choose the one that will best meet all the requirements. After that, you can start creating drawings, and plan the arrangement of the stairs in one place or another in the house.
  2. Before creating a drawing, you must first measure, this is the height from floor to ceiling, taking into account the interfloor partition. And also calculate the number of steps, their width, height and angle of inclination of the stairs, etc.
  3. The drawing should not only display all the dimensions of the stairs, but also indicate the fences, their height.

It is also worth drawing a general diagram of the house, which will display the location of the stairs indicating the area occupied.

Such a scheme will allow you to better understand how the finished staircase will look like, and will allow you to double-check all the calculations before making the stairs.

Based on the drawings, it is best for a novice builder to start making the simplest staircase using a carrier beam - a stringer. Their number in the ladder can vary from 1 to 3.

Do-it-yourself staircase made of wood: calculations (video)

During the construction of a multi-storey building, it is necessary to equip stairs so that you can get from floor to floor comfortably and safely for the health of residents.

Most private houses in our time have several floors. It is cheaper to build such a house, since you can get more living space with a smaller foundation. After all, it is the foundation that accounts for the main expenses during construction. Yes, and organizing a convenient layout of a two-story house is easier.

But the presence of more floors requires the construction of stairs, which often frightens those involved in the construction of their house or cottage. To them, such work seems to be something complicated, but in fact, everything is quite simple. A good staircase is easy to build with your own hands, just knowing a few features.

What is the staircase made of?


Stair elements

First you need, of course, to understand what it is, what are its main elements. The basic design here is so simple that the differences between different types are minimal.

First, everyone knows that it consists of steps. It is on them that the main burden falls. The steps do not hang in the air, they rely on one of two types of supporting structures - bowstrings or stringers.

  • Bowstrings are two thick boards in which special grooves are cut for steps and risers. Such grooves are made according to the template. The bowstrings are pulled together with strands of both metal and wood;
  • Unlike bowstrings, stringers are not straight boards, but have a sawtooth shape. Horizontal cuts are used as a support for the steps, and vertical cuts are used to fasten the risers. Another difference between the kosour and bowstrings is that during construction, you can use not two boards, but one. In the latter version, the steps rest on the walls.

Kosour marking scheme

Optional, but present almost everywhere, the element is the risers. Their main function is decorative. The risers make it possible to hide the interior space of the stairs.

Railings that increase the level of safety of use are also not required, but highly desirable. Sometimes stairs have elements such as a support step or special platforms.

What are stairs

In most modern houses, one of their three main types is made - marching, on the bolts, screw. At the same time, they choose based on aesthetic preferences, the availability of free space in the house, budget and other parameters.

Marching stairs

The most common marching stairs

The simplest and most common design is the marching staircase. Although, having such an important plus - ease of construction, it also has one important drawback - it takes up quite a lot of space. As a result, its construction may not be justified in a small house.

Depending on the number of storeys of the building, its size, stairs of this type are built single-flight, two-flight, three-flight, etc. Marches are called separate segments, which may consist of a different number of steps, but usually no more than fifteen. The optimal number is considered to be ten steps.

In addition, they are divided into open and closed. In most cases, owners make a choice based on aesthetic preferences, because the only difference between them is the presence or absence of risers. Open marching stairs are chosen by those who want a feeling of lightness in the interior.

They have a similar device. They also differ simply in what kind of support they use for them. They can rely on bowstrings, or they can rely on stringers. At the same time, there is no total preference for one type of support. It all depends on the wishes of the owner or location. For example, for a staircase against a wall, it is quite logical to use a stringer as a supporting beam.

To save space, they are often made with a turn. In this case, trapezoidal rotary steps, called winders, are used. The most common angles of rotation of mid-flight stairs are 90 degrees (quarter-turn stairs) and 180 degrees (half-turn stairs). They also come with a 360-degree rotation, but then they can also be attributed to screw ones.

Bolts stairs


Stairs on the rails have a modern, technological and light look.

With the growing popularity of high-tech or modern interiors, the popularity of stairs on the rails has increased. They really have a modern, technological and at the same time light look. They got their name from the German word "bolz", which means "bolt" in translation, this is the name of their main structural element - large hinged balusters.

The design feature here is the absence of a frame, which creates the feeling that it is floating in the air. Its role is assumed by the steps and the bolts, mounted to the handrails.

There are several types of designs of stairs on the rails. You can choose either one that involves only the use of balusters, or with one side resting on a wall, bowstring or stringer. Combinations are quite common. The choice depends only on the taste and planning features of the house.

In addition to aesthetics, they have one definite practical plus - high maintainability. Any element, from steps to railings, is very easy to dismantle.

Spiral stairs


Spiral staircases are popular in both modern and classic interiors.

Both in modern and classic interiors, spiral staircases are popular. They are valued primarily for the fact that they take up very little space (example in the photo). If you have a small house, then this is the choice for you. Their compact, space-saving proportions make efficient use of space. On the other hand, it was not without drawbacks - they are not wide and steep, and self-mounting, although not very difficult, requires more work than in the case of marching ones.

There are two main designs in use today:

  • The first of them involves the use of bent-glued handrails, on which the steps are attached. This design is quite complex, but it is also distinguished by its special beauty;
  • The second, the most common and classic, involves the use of a central support and curved handrails. Steps are attached both to the support and to the handrails. This design is simpler and does not have such strict requirements for the strength of materials as the first one.

The design of the spiral staircase can also provide for the support of the steps on the wall. In this case, special recesses are made in the wall, to which they are attached. It will not necessarily be circular, it may well be polygonal.

Make a ladder: Requirements

You need to design a staircase at the design stage of the whole house. In this case, you need to take into account a few simple conditions and requirements:

  1. It is necessary to consider where it will be installed;
  2. How many tenants and how often they will use it, and how old these people will be;
  3. Will it be necessary to carry something very heavy along it;
  4. It is required that the slope angle not only does not exceed 42 degrees, but is also constant along its entire length;
  5. The minimum width should be 80 cm and not less;
  6. Steps should be installed on the basis of a minimum design load of 200 kilograms per meter. cube;
  7. The minimum design load for the railing is 100 kg per meter. cube;
  8. Stair railings should not be too low. Their smallest height can be at least 80 cm;
  9. Balusters should not be too rare, the clear distance between them should not exceed 15 cm.

Make a ladder: Calculations


Before making a staircase, it is necessary to correctly make calculations

Having taken into account all the above requirements and choosing the appropriate type of stairs, you can safely proceed with its construction with your own hands according to the drawing.

The success of independent construction depends on correctly made calculations. Calculating the design parameters of the stairs, you determine those dimensions that best contribute to ensuring convenient and safe movement. Moreover, convenience is supported by a certain ratio between the rise and advancement.

When designing, you need to remember that all steps of one march must have the same dimensions. At the same time, the sum of the double height of the riser and the step should not be less than the length of the average human step, which is 60–66 cm.

To achieve the greatest convenience, it is worth maintaining the difference between the width of the step and the height of the riser at the level of 12 cm, but the greatest safety is achieved when the sum of these parameters is not less than 46 cm.

When calculating the angle of inclination, it is taken into account that the distance from the plane of each step to the ceiling should not be less than two meters.

The optimal angle is considered to be in the range from 23 to 37 degrees.

Naturally, the larger it is, the less space the structure will take, but at an angle of more than 45 degrees, it will simply be inconvenient to climb along it.

In order to determine the total length of a simple flight of stairs, you can use the formula H2 + D2 = L2, where H is the sum of the distance from the floor of the first floor to the ceiling and the thickness of the interfloor ceiling, and D is the size of the projection onto the floor. In order to determine the size of the projection, you must first find out the number of steps required. To do this, divide H by the selected step height. After that, the resulting number of steps is multiplied by their selected width.

Make a ladder according to the instructions: a ladder with bowstrings

There are many types of stairs, now we will talk about the stairs on bowstrings.


Staircase to the second floor on bowstrings

How to make a string

It is necessary to start building a staircase on bowstrings from their manufacture. Why choose either a solid solid and fairly thick board or a durable glued laminated timber. The length of the boards is selected based on the length of the stairs or march. You also need to prepare the strands with which you fasten the beams so that they do not part in different directions during operation.

The markup is done even before the bowstrings are installed. This stage plays an important role, since its incorrect execution often leads to a banal distortion of the steps. In order for the cutouts of the grooves to be completely identical, located equidistant from each other, a self-made template is used when marking. A thin sheet of plywood is used as a template.

On the inside of the board, you need to draw a boundary line, stepping back 5 cm from the edge, otherwise the bowstring has a chance to turn into a string.

It is these lines that will act as the border of the steps. Then they take a template, apply and outline the places for future grooves, moving to the end. The location of the grooves on the beams of the bowstrings should be mirrored.

Mounting the bowstring

Mounting bowstrings does not require any special skills and a lot of time. The whole procedure consists in the fact that the bowstring is fastened with screws to the floor and the ceiling of the floors. Sometimes, if a very large load is expected, support beams are used. But such a design is rarely found in interiors, due to its bulkiness and lack of practical necessity.

Cutting elements

For cutting grooves, a conventional milling machine is used. This requires two or three approaches, no more. They almost always start with side cuts, after which they make additional ones that make work easier with a chisel. The optimal depth is 1.5–2 cm. At the end, the grooves are cleaned and the edges are smeared with glue before mounting the steps.

How to make steps and mount them

The manufacture of steps is one of the simplest procedures among all installation work. A dry board is taken. Its thickness should be at least 3.5 cm. The width must correspond to that which was chosen for the steps in the calculations. The board is cut based on the width of the stairs, including the railing. Grind after cutting. The procedure for making risers looks almost the same. Unless you can use a less thick board - up to 2 cm.

When assembling a flight of stairs, the steps are first attached, for which self-tapping screws are used. The best option is 6x90 self-tapping screws, of which there should be six pieces.

It is also possible to mount without the use of additional devices, but only with glue. But its strength depends on how tightly the step fits into the groove.

Sometimes the steps are attached to the bowstrings without using grooves. Then, surfs or bars are attached to the inside of the boards with the help of metal holders, on which the steps are placed. Risers can be attached to bowstrings with or without screws.

How to make railings and mount them

Railings can be either made independently or bought ready-made. Although they may differ from each other in appearance, they have the same design - the railing consists of handrails and balusters. Handrails are usually made from boards, and balusters are usually made from square bars. Moreover, the latter can be both very simple and carved.

The number of balusters should usually correspond to the number of steps. Two of them, installed at the beginning of the stairs and at its end, play the role of support. All the rest are decorative.

They also help the safe use of the design. Self-tapping screws act as fasteners, which can be hidden with a decorative plug. After fixing the balusters, handrails are attached to them. For this, self-tapping screws are also needed.

Staircase on stringers


Staircase to the second floor on stringers

The manufacture of a stringer is in many ways similar to the manufacture of bowstrings, although these two types of support structures use a slightly different principle for holding steps.

Using this technology, temporary, outdoor (street) home-made stairs are made in houses.

You need to choose a solid board of solid durable wood. The board must be dry.

After that, a marking template is made, similar to the one used to make the bowstring. The template imitating the protrusions must correspond to the calculated dimensions of the steps. This time you do not need to draw an indent line, since it will not be necessary to cut out the grooves.

For sawing out protrusions, it is most convenient to use an electric jigsaw. After they are sawn, they need to be sanded.

Self-manufacturing stairs at first glance may seem like a rather complicated task, requiring calculations, the right choice of material and certain skills. But this is only at first glance. It is enough to get acquainted with how everything is done to understand that there is nothing complicated here.

Making your home comfortable does not require too much time, or too much effort, or a significant financial outlay.

There are also types of stairs for limited space - folding, retractable, cabinet stairs. They are temporary and are made mainly of iron.

Video

Watch a YouTube video on how to make a ladder with your own hands.

You can turn to professionals for help, but keep in mind that they may not pay attention to minor defects during construction, which can later lead to serious damage and subsequent repairs. Stairs to the second floor, made by yourself, will give you several advantages:

  • the result will meet expectations;
  • help save money and nerves;
  • a staircase made by yourself will become your pride.

If you are limited in funds for the purchase of materials, you can buy cheaper analogues: instead of wood, use chipboard, which can be varnished or painted.

In the pursuit of economy, quality can be overlooked. Although a cheap wooden staircase can also last quite a long time, it will start to creak very soon. In order not to encounter this trouble, the stairs must be assembled using silicone sealant, which cannot be done without first painting the parts.

In this article, we will talk about how to make a staircase to the second floor with our own hands from wood and metal, and also show photo and video instructions.


For the manufacture of an interfloor staircase, concrete with a tile or marble lining, metal (a welding machine is required), as well as wood can be used. The last option is the most practical and convenient. The wooden structure is lightweight, easy to install and beautiful in appearance.


In the presence of a room with a ceiling height of 2.8 m, preference should be given to direct structures, or with a 25% turn of the stairs. The flight of stairs is made with a length of 80 cm. This option allows you to use the space under the stairs for storage. It is impossible not to note the minus: on the upper and lower floors, the free space will be significantly reduced.

To save precious square meters, the spiral version of the staircase is ideal, but it is also not without drawbacks:

  • too steep climb;
  • small width stairs.

For the installation of a spiral staircase, 3 m² of free space and a lot of work will be required.

Another variant of the ladder arrangement is possible, in which it is located along the wall surface. In this case, it is worth considering two marches and a turn. Thus, you will make it as compact and comfortable as possible for movement.


  1. Calculation of the dimensions of the stairs. Measure the distance between the floors of the first and second floors together with the ceiling. Thus, you determine the height of the structure. The step should have a height of 18-20 cm. Further dividing the height of the stairs by the height of the steps, you will get the total number of steps.
  2. Projection of dimensions on the floor surface. To design a structure, it is necessary to determine the width of the steps (about 30 cm), after which their number must be multiplied by their width. As a result, you will get the projection size.
  3. Production of staircase elements. To make a kosour, you will need a 14 × 16 beam, steps - 4 cm boards, risers - 2.5 cm boards. You will determine the length of the steps yourself, remember that the larger it is, the better.
  4. Pre-sampling. If during the preliminary fitting of the parts everything came up, process each element with a grinder and assemble the structure. To fix the parts of the stairs to each other, coat all the places where they come into contact with each other with glue (PVA or carpentry) and additionally fix it with screws.
  5. Stain and lacquer finish. First, apply a stain on the surface, and after waiting for it to dry, cover with several layers of varnish.


As a design solution, you can consider mortise steps that are inserted into the grooves cut in the stringer:

  1. Make markings on the stringer at the places where the steps are installed. Using a hacksaw and a chisel, cut out the grooves.
  2. In the center of the groove, make several holes with a size of 9 mm.
  3. Screw the turbo coupling into the holes made.
  4. Install the step into the groove and tighten the bolts.


When buying planed wood, the following requirements must be considered:

  • there should be no dark spots on the surface;
  • the presence of cracks, chips, roughness and other defects is unacceptable.

Knots (diameter up to 1 cm) can only be present if steps or risers are made from the material. Also pay attention to humidity, the large mass of the board suggests that the purchase should be abandoned.

When making a structure without experience, you may encounter certain difficulties, but your desire and desire will help you achieve the desired result.


Now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the technology of manufacturing stairs made of wood. First of all, it is necessary to make drawings with individual structural details. To do this, take a well-dried wood and transfer the appropriate dimensions to it. In doing so, several factors should be taken into account:

  • The strength and reliability of the stairs will depend entirely on the correct sawing of the stringers. Therefore, their production must be approached responsibly. Moreover, for the kosour, it is necessary to choose a solid board that does not have large knots in large quantities. The thickness of the board can be 45–50 mm.
  • The board for risers can have a thickness of 15-20 mm more than allotted for them on the stringer, and the thickness of the riser is also taken into account. The treads themselves should have a perfectly flat surface with neatly rounded edges. The thickness of the board can be in the range of 30–35 mm.
  • If you want to make a closed staircase with risers, then their manufacture must also be extremely accurate. Its thickness should not be large, 15-20 mm is enough. In this case, the main load will go to the stringers. The risers themselves play the role of support.
  • As for balusters and handrails, it is recommended that they be purchased ready-made with stationary fixtures.

If you have small children at home, then for safety reasons, install 2 balusters on each step. In all other cases, you can install one at a time.


When all the blanks of the structure are ready, you can proceed to the most important stage of work - the installation of the stairs. All subsequent work looks like this:

  • Kosours are mounted at the chosen place. To do this, fix the support beam on the floor, it is on it that the kosour will be attached. At the top, the fastening is carried out in a cut groove in the beam. In some cases, a metal support is used for fastening. In this case, an anchor bolt is used for fastening. During the installation of the kosour, be sure to check everything by level or plumb.
  • Before laying the tread sheet, the risers must be screwed on.


  • After that, treads are fixed on the stringers and on top of the risers with self-tapping screws in the direction from bottom to top.
  • After that, the installation of balusters is carried out.


So, on top of the stairs and below you mount support drains. They will serve as the border of the handrails and also support the railing.

In addition, the support posts serve as a decoration. Therefore, they are often made using wood cutting.


Balusters, in turn, can have different shapes, sizes and fastening methods. Some, for example, are simply screwed on with self-tapping screws, others are mounted in pre-drilled holes. But in any case, the attachment point must be closed with a decorative plug. Further work is as follows:

  • On top of the installed balusters, fasten the railing to the extreme support posts. Additionally, 1 or 2 additional support posts can be installed in the middle.
  • When using two, three or more support posts, instead of balusters between the posts, you can install several boards parallel to the slope of the stairs.
  • At the next stage, you can start grinding with an emery or grinder. After that, a paint coating is applied.


The first layer acts as an antiseptic against rotting and the appearance of mold / fungus. The design should dry out, after which you can proceed to the main painting.

The stairs are covered with water-based varnish, hot wax or paint. You can also cover the wood with stain, which will slightly darken the structure. Everything depends on your desire.









    Scheme


















    Video

    We bring to your attention a video film, the main character of which is a wooden staircase.

One-story buildings in the private sector are built only to support economic activities, and are used as ancillary buildings. A full-fledged residential building with at least 2 floors. Therefore, one cannot do without such a functional element as a staircase to the second floor.

The problem of moving from one level to another can be solved simply - buy a ready-made kit and install it yourself.

Its cost starts from about 33,000 rubles (pine, 14 steps, a turning staircase with two spans). Do-it-yourself installation is easy. The problem is different - how will it fit into the interior, will it be necessary to adjust individual elements or partially reconstruct the 1st floor?

Many firms provide services for the manufacture of kits according to customer drawings, but as practice shows, such stairs cost 1.5 times more. That is why most often the most acceptable option is to make a wooden staircase with your own hands, from scratch.

How to do it, what to pay attention to - this is what this article is devoted to.

Terminology

Before proceeding to the consideration of design features, some specific definitions should be “deciphered”. The main elements are shown in the diagrams.

  • Step. Its horizontal part is called a tread, the vertical (it may not be) - a riser.
  • Support beams. If the steps are adjacent to them with end parts, then this is a bowstring. If they are "superimposed" on the beam and their edges protrude beyond it, then it is called a kosour.
  • Railing supports. They are often called balusters or pillars. For screw construction, the term rack is used.
  • Fasteners. In some types of stairs, the steps are fixed directly on the adjoining wall with special bolts - bolts.

Types of staircase designs

For self-production, the simplest are marching ones. For a private house, they are installed with one or two spans. Spiral staircases for self-assembly are much more complicated (this is discussed here). In addition, the production of the necessary calculations for them has its own specifics.

Features of calculating the parameters of the stairs

The following are general recommendations that are only desirable to focus on when designing an internal staircase. Since all houses (and premises) differ in architecture, dimensions, layout, there can be no single template in principle.

steepness

The optimal slope of the spans is in the range from 35 to 450. It is much more difficult to climb the steeper stairs (especially for people with disabilities, the elderly or small children). Yes, and carrying large, heavy things from floor to floor will also be complicated.

A flatter design is inconvenient in that more space will be needed for its installation, as the length of each span will increase. And what specific angle to choose is at the discretion of the owner.

Width

It is unlikely that anyone in a private house will move from floor to floor as part of a “group of comrades”, therefore, when drawing up a diagram, it is advisable to focus on the dimensions of one person. A staircase with a width of about 1.2 - 1.5 m for a private house is quite an acceptable option. And walking on it, and even carrying furniture will be quite convenient.

Step parameters

  • Tread. A person's foot should completely fit on it (based on the 45th size), therefore the optimal step width is within 250 - 300 mm.
  • Riser. In order to make it convenient for people of any height and age to move, its height is taken within 150 - 200 mm. Quite enough, regardless of the design.

On a note! All indicated dimensions are exactly the same for each step of one staircase. Otherwise, there is no need to talk about the convenience of moving.

Ladder height

It is defined as the distance from the floor covering of the lower floor to the ceiling + the thickness of the ceiling. For example, 270 + 40 - 310 (cm).

Number of steps

The height of the structure (310) is divided by the sum of the riser value and the thickness of the tread board, after which it is rounded up to a whole value (up). For example, if "magpie" is used, then 20 + 4 = 24 cm.

Total - 310: 24 = 13 (steps).

Recommendation - for stairs with more than 18 steps and a steepness of 450, special platforms should be installed. Depending on the purpose, they are called differently - rotary, viewing, intermediate. Consequently, the staircase itself will already consist of separate flights (flights). They can be of the same type, or made according to different schemes, since the site is not necessarily located exactly in the center of the structure.

Ladder length

It is easy to determine it, knowing the number of steps and the size of each tread. These values ​​are multiplied. If the steps have protrusions, then they are not taken into account.

Sometimes calculations show that such a design "does not fit" in a particular room. In such cases, either the number of marches is increased, or the so-called winder (turning) steps are equipped.

Winder steps - top view

Height of spans relative to the floor

It is necessary to focus on the height of a person + a small margin. The design is considered optimal, in which the distance between the extreme steps and the ceiling is at least 2 m. Otherwise, a tall person at the end of the span will have to bend his head.

materials

In most cases, a wood species such as pine is chosen. It is inexpensive, but it is not characterized by durability. Larch - in many ways preferable. The presence of a special resin in its structure makes the material even stronger when absorbing moisture. And this is important for a home staircase, given the specifics of its operation. All other options, for example, oak, cedar, maple and a number of others, cannot be called budget.

Before you start working with wood, it must be properly dried. Further shrinkage of the material (including twisting) will cause the staircase to literally fall apart.

The order of work on the installation of stairs

Consider the simplest example - single-flight stairs. This option can be considered basic, since the algorithm of actions is the same, regardless of the number of spans.

Preparation of structural elements

  • Kosoura. The main requirement is that they must be absolutely identical. The board is only solid, without defects, not less than "forty". Accordingly, cuts are made under the steps in advance.
  • Steps. The edges must be rounded, as sharp edges increase the risk of injury. The board is selected absolutely flat, carefully processed (polished). The length is calculated so that their edges protrude beyond the stringers by no more than 2 - 4 cm. Thickness - in the range of 300 - 400 mm.
  • Riser. They do not experience significant load, since it falls mainly on the support beams. In order not to increase the total weight of the span, a board of 15 is enough for them.

Tip - it is better not to install risers for a private house, since it is much more difficult to clean on a staircase of this (closed) type.

  • Handrails, balusters. It is unlikely that it will be possible to make them on your own so that the staircase becomes not only a means of transportation, but also a decoration of the house. Therefore, these structural elements should either be purchased in a store or ordered in a workshop.

Ladder assembly

Wall marking

According to the installation diagram and drawing.

Fastening of support beams (stringers)

The fixation of the upper part of the march is done in different ways (as convenient). Option number 1 - cuts are made in the floor beam. Option number 2 - metal stops are used, which are fixed on the beam with anchors. In any case, the junction of structural elements should be as reliable as possible.

To fix the bottom of the stringers, a support beam is mounted on the floor. To the wall - fixation on anchor bolts.

Installation of risers

If they are mounted, then they are screwed to the stringers.

Laying steps

They are fixed both on the support beams and on the risers (at least at one point, in the center).

For the convenience of work, the installation of steps begins from the bottom. The options are shown in the diagram.

Installation of balusters

First of all, the extreme ones are fixed - above and below the march. A “bowstring” is stretched between them, focusing on which, you can mount the rest of the racks.

Handrail Installation

They are fixed on each of the racks, which are located on the march. They can be made from almost any material - metal, plastic, and not just wood.

Treatment

The article outlines only the general procedure and gives basic recommendations. Having decided on the specific design of the stairs, you should study all the available material on this topic, since different models have their own nuances of both installation and calculations of individual components. For example, rotary steps, which can be either rectangular or segmental.

You can watch a video instruction for making a wooden staircase:

But the general rules of work are described in detail, and the author hopes that this article will help the reader in the matter of self-design. Good luck!

  • Samples of finished stairs

The construction of a two-, three-story cottage involves the presence of a staircase. Without it, access to the basement, underground garage, attic space will be problematic.
It is important not to forget that the staircase is a complex engineering structure. Its design and construction cannot be carried out according to the residual principle. The location, material, project is determined in advance. The wooden staircase to the second floor is the most beautiful option for your choice.

For private households, the use of two main types of stair climbs is typical: marching and screw. Marching - with one or more spans separated by intermediate platforms. The most spectacular, but also expensive are screw. It is recommended to involve specialists with relevant experience in their construction, calculation of the number and width of steps.

In this article, we will consider in more detail all the popular types of stairs, their advantages and disadvantages. But you need to start with the choice of wood:

  • maple looks good, varnishing will emphasize the structure. But when bending, cracks and breaks will appear on the surface;
  • beech is considered one of the most durable options, but is not intended for use in conditions of high constant humidity;
  • oak is both durable and beautiful. The only drawback is the high price;
  • larch and pine are budget options. Approved for use subject to antiseptic treatment from rot and bugs.

How to make a wooden spiral staircase to the second floor with your own hands

If, in accordance with the plan of the house, a minimum space is allocated for the placement of interfloor passages, the screw modification will be indispensable. It is mounted both in the center of the room, hall or corridor, and against the wall.

Types of spiral staircases

There are four main types depending on the method of fastening steps:

  • directly to the central, supporting column, assembled from metal parts, lined with brick or stone;
  • treads are placed on top of each other. Their intersection becomes a support column;
  • with fastening to stringers or bowstrings. The central support may be absent or used as an additional element that provides strength. Railings and bolts are used as a link;
  • steps in addition to the stringer or the central rack are attached to the wall.

Benefits of a spiral staircase

The first thing to mention is the elegant appearance. The number of design and finish options is endless: from gothic and wrought iron railings to high-tech and postmodernism. There is no feeling of "heaviness", a light "transparent" design does not distract attention, while visually "increasing" the height of the ceilings.

Do not forget about saving space. Not everyone has the opportunity to allocate half the floor for the placement of stairs. And modern technologies and materials make it possible not to spend half of the state on organizing transitions from floor to floor.

Important points during construction

A spiral staircase is built subject to the following criteria:

  • the distance between floors or intermediate platforms is at least 2 meters;
  • for the manufacture of the central support, a pipe with a wall thickness of 4 mm or more is used. Column diameter - 50-60 mm and more;
  • at the support, the depth of the steps is not less than 10 cm, at the railing - 40 cm. For treads in the shape of a rectangle, the optimal depth is 20 cm or more. For one full turn (3600), at least 12 steps up to 1 meter wide are required. Moving two at the same time is quite difficult, not to mention lifting or lowering furniture.

You can build a spiral staircase yourself. But the calculation of the number of treads, their height and turn requires special knowledge. To avoid mistakes and subsequent rework, it is better to contact specialists, at least at the design stage. If you decide to go through all the stages yourself, listen to the following tips:

  • the best material is beech or oak wood. It has good strength, can withstand decades of operation;
  • there should be no sharp edges or nicks. After sanding and sanding, all wooden parts are varnished with parquet;
  • the first baluster is not attached to the first step, but to the floor next to it for greater structural strength.

Straight wooden staircase to the second floor

A single-flight span is the easiest way to organize movement around the house. It has both advantages and disadvantages. The advantages include:

  1. simplicity of design, ease of movement and a minimum of preliminary calculations. Even with little experience, but with due diligence, the manufacture and installation of stringers can be completed in a few days;
  2. it is enough to make a sample of the tread and riser, and cut out all the details on them in the future;
  3. if space along the wall is chosen for placement, then it is advisable to fasten one edge of the steps to a brick or concrete partition to increase strength.

There is also a disadvantage to be noted. Ideally, the slope ranges from 26-450, and the stairs take up a lot of space. You will have to decide where to place it and what to do with the space under the stairs.

Design parameters

It is not worth neglecting the design stage even if we are talking about 2-3 steps. The project helps to determine both the appearance and the overall length and other technical characteristics. Regardless of the wishes of the owner in terms of registration, the requirements of SNiP remain the same for all modifications of flights of stairs:

  • step height - no more than 20 cm. Both the riser and the tread itself are taken into account;
  • depth - not less than 25-30 cm;
  • when calculating the width, they are guided by the dimensions of the doorways. The standard prescribes that a flight of stairs designed to move one person should not be narrower than 80 cm;
  • boards are selected well-dried with a thickness of at least 4 cm, without knots, cracks, or other defects that can lead to deformation. If you are ordering wood parts to be made in-house, make sure they are the same size, sanded, sanded and polished.

Why do you need a layout

Construction work begins with a plywood layout. Don't give up if you don't have enough experience. It is better to spend a few extra days, but avoid fatal mistakes.

Exact copies of stringers, risers and treads are cut out of plywood. They are assembled, "fitting" at the installation site. The dimensions, ease of use, placement of balusters under the railing are being specified. It is quite possible that you will have to add / reduce the number of steps, adjust the height of the lowest one.

The layout is ready, we proceed to work on the original

If the plywood copy is completely satisfied, proceed to work with the boards. It is not necessary to immediately install stringers or bowstrings at the place of permanent placement. Assembly is done on the floor. First, risers are mounted, then tread. Hats of fasteners (nails or wood screws) should not protrude above the surface.

For fastening to the floor and stairway, special mounting loops or parts are used, which are laid in the floors during the construction of the main building.

Upon completion of work on the steps, proceed to the installation of railings: from wood, metal, profile pipe. A specific option is selected taking into account the general style, wall material, floor. On each tread, experts recommend placing one baluster. The presence of crossbars - individually. It is advisable to install them if there are small children in the house, or the railings are made of metal. On a wooden structure, crossbars are unnecessary.

Stairs with 90 degree turn

If the space for placing a flight of stairs is limited or the structure has more than 10-12 steps, experts recommend making an intermediate platform with a turn of 90 or 180 degrees, mounted in the walls of the house from two or three sides.

Calculations of the number and width of treads are carried out in the same way as for a standard single-flight span with a small exception. Does the turntable consist of winder steps? They are designed as a spiral staircase. At the narrowest point, the depth is at least 10 cm, at the widest point - 40 cm.

To facilitate calculations, millimetric paper is used. On it, in compliance with the scale, the upper and lower spans, the transition platform are drawn, winder steps are laid. In the middle line, their depth is not less than 20 cm. Otherwise, it will be problematic to go up / down. Do you critically evaluate your own abilities in drawing? Refer to special calculation programs distributed free of charge.

If the turntable does not provide for the use of winders, a frame is prepared corresponding to the width of the marches. For fastening the frame-platform are used:

  • one or two walls of the house;
  • common kosour;
  • support pillars. They are subsequently used as a base for a built-in wardrobe in the under-stair space.

For reliability, it is recommended to make a draft version of plywood or waste board. The turntable is a complex structure. Correcting errors is almost impossible. On a plywood layout, it is easier to correct the number of steps or the angle of rotation if there are inaccuracies in the calculations.

Installation of stairs with a turn of 90 degrees

  • kosour is attached to the wall with anchor bolts;
  • support poles are installed if they are provided for by the project. They can be concreted into the floor and further strengthened with mounting loops with bolts;
  • an external kosour is attached to the supporting pillars. At each stage, slopes, the presence / absence of deviations from the plan are carefully checked;
  • on stringers or bowstrings in the grooves, risers are first attached, then treads. For greater strength, it is recommended to glue all seams;
  • installation of the upper span ends with the installation of winder steps. The presence of gaps between structural parts is unacceptable;
  • railings and balusters are installed last.

Do-it-yourself wooden staircase to the second floor with a 180 turn

In a private house, situations are not uncommon when there is no place for placing a direct mid-flight staircase, and it is undesirable to build a spiral staircase. For example, elderly people live in the building. In this case, you should pay attention to modifications with a rotation of 1800, made using one of two technologies:

  • two marches “meet” at an intermediate interfloor platform, equal in width to the spans plus an additional gap separating them. The site can be capital (reinforced concrete slab) or wooden on supports or built into the wall. For each run, a standard calculation is performed;
  • in place of the site - winder steps that form a turn. The option is more difficult to manufacture, but more ergonomic. When ascending / descending, you do not have to change the pace of movement. But, it must be borne in mind that the running treads have a trapezoidal shape. Navigating them is more difficult than standard rectangular ones.

Project development

on a sheet of graph paper, projections of the stairs are drawn vertically and horizontally in compliance with the scale;

  • the steps of the upper and lower flights are marked, taking into account the requirements of SNiP for height, depth, width;
  • They do the same with refugees. In the simplest case, there will be four. But this option may be inconvenient if the site is large. Also, experts recommend making cross-country steps not only directly on the site, but also part of the nearest marching ones, in order to make the movement more comfortable;
  • the basis of the whole composition is the central support pillar with a section of 10 x 10 cm or more. Both span stringers and winder steps in the narrow part are attached to it.

Installation of stairs with a 180 degree turn

Preparation of holsters with grooves for treads: two shorter ones and four long ones. The short ones reach the support post, the long ones reach the wall behind the transition platform. The stringers of the lower span are attached with anchor bolts to the support beam of the floor of the first floor. In the upper part - either to the pole or to the wall. The stringers of the upper span are attached to the ceiling, pillar and wall;

  • for treads, risers (if any), a transition platform, a board with a thickness of 4 cm or more is used without knots, notches that can ruin the structure;
  • All details are cut according to the template, carefully polished. At the initial stage, risers are installed, then - treads. For fixing, self-tapping screws with a flat head and glue are needed. It is possible to replace self-tapping screws with dowels;
  • transition steps are set. The wide edge is attached to the wall, the narrow part - to the support post;
  • at the last stage, railings are mounted. Holes are drilled in the steps. For fastening, bolts with a length of at least 10 cm or wooden studs are used. The lower (uppermost) baluster is located on the floor, even before the first step.

Outdoor wooden stairs to the second floor

The construction of a wooden staircase on the street practically does not differ in technology from the process indoors. The type of construction is selected, the number of steps, the parameters of the transition platform are calculated. There are also nuances:

  • wood does not like moisture. There are several ways to avoid excessive water absorption and rapid destruction, for example, place it under a canopy. It is necessary to choose types of wood that are resistant to water, such as oak or larch. But at the same time, the project significantly increases the cost. You can make railings and treads from wood, and use metal or reinforced concrete for load-bearing structures;
  • under the lower supports, a tape or is equipped. Otherwise, subsidence is inevitable. Mounting loops are attached to the ends of the stringers, followed by embedding in concrete. So the design will become more reliable.

How to paint a wooden staircase

The staircase is ready, the railings are installed, the steps are lined, the decorative panels and slats are mounted, masking the stringers and fasteners. It's time to move on to painting or varnishing.

The industry offers different options for paint and varnish solutions. Each of them deserves separate consideration.

Alkyd paints

  • dry quickly;
  • the composition includes special substances with the effect of antiseptics to protect against insects and putrefactive processes;
  • allowed for indoor use, non-toxic, do not cause an allergic reaction;
  • wide range of colors.

Acrylic paints

  • drying time is minimal;
  • no unpleasant odors;
  • dyes do not change color and saturation under the influence of sunlight or artificial light;
  • the color palette is able to satisfy the most sophisticated taste.

Oil paints

  • minimum cost;
  • the structure of the tree is not preserved during painting, the surface "does not breathe";
  • with intensive use of the stairs, it will be necessary to periodically re-stain;
  • dries for a long time while maintaining an unpleasant, pungent odor.

Enamel paints

  • ideal for indoor work, as they dry very quickly;
  • in the composition there are no toxins and elements that give a pungent odor;
  • in the course of work it is necessary to ventilate the room in a constant mode. It is advisable not to work during rainy or high humidity periods.

Lucky

  • most of them are not recommended for outdoor use, as they do not withstand low temperatures;
  • dry quickly;
  • preserve and emphasize the structure of the tree;
  • the surface is smooth (provided that at least 3 layers are applied) and shiny;
  • it is better to choose alcohol-based options;
  • The “yacht” modification cannot be used for interior design due to the high content of toxic substances and an unpleasant odor that persists for a long time.

wood stain

  • it is used both as an independent tool for wood processing, and as a base for paint;
  • preserves and emphasizes the structure of the original material, has fire-retardant properties, especially in combination with polish layers.

Experts say that the best option for painting indoor stairs are alkyd paints. For greater effect, they are varnished on top.

Painting options

The stairs are painted in one of two ways:

  • before installation. Each element is colored separately. Assembly work begins after complete drying. The main difficulty in this case is not to damage the layer of paint or varnish during assembly, drilling holes;
  • after installation. There are options here. If the second floor is residential, and the staircase is the only one, they paint through the step. After the first "batch" dries, they move on to the second.

If it is possible not to use the second floor yet, or an additional descent is provided, painting is carried out without passes. This option is preferable, as there will be no color variation.

Regardless of the chosen staining method, at least 5 hours must be added to the time specified by the manufacturer. The direction of the strokes is along the grain of the wood.

The subtleties of staining pine stairs

Pine boards require special handling. Resin is actively released on their surface. If it is not removed before staining, the paint will lie unevenly, will not penetrate deep into the structure, and will darken in places over time. Removing resin is a mandatory step in the work.

For deresining, a 25% acetone solution is used. It is applied to all surfaces, followed by wiping with a damp cloth. Apply paint or varnish after complete drying. If there is too much resin in certain areas, it is recommended to cut them out and putty the surface for leveling.

General technology for painting a wooden staircase

  • cleaning the surface from debris, construction dust, chips;
  • grinding, priming chips, cracks, scratches;
  • after the soil has dried, a new sanding cycle is carried out with the removal of debris;
  • Ideally, the surfaces are primed again 24 hours after the initial treatment. But this only applies to coloring. The tree is not primed under varnish;
  • paint or varnish is applied in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. It is not recommended to choose both too hot days and rainy ones for work;
  • in the process of staining, there should be no dripping drops on the surface;
  • varnish is applied in 3-5 layers.

When choosing a color, you need to focus on your own preferences, the style of the room, the design solution of the house. If steps or balusters of several colors are planned, then it is better to paint before the assembly process.

Building a staircase to the second floor with your own hands is a difficult task, but not hopeless. With a little effort, everything is done in a few days.