An important stage of construction is the insulation of the house. The building goods market is rich in offers: here you can find rolled, sheet, foam materials. However, the most budgetary and environmentally friendly option would be to use sawdust as a heater. Such insulation has pros and cons, so you need to decide whether it is acceptable to use it in the construction of a particular house.
Sawdust as a heater is characterized by a number of advantages:
1. they are light, so they will not create significant pressure on the floors;
2. the application does not provide for the obligatory leveling of the surface;
3. easy to use;
4. are eco-friendly, hypoallergenic material;
5. cheap (sometimes even free if there is a woodworking plant nearby);
6. excellent thermal insulation parameters.
It is fair to point out the disadvantages of insulation with sawdust:
- low moisture resistance, as a result of which it is required to create good hydro and vapor barrier;
- fire hazard;
- high risk of rodents.
Similar problems can be eliminated by mixing wood waste with fluffy lime, cement, gypsum. After that, the resulting composition is processed with copper sulphate. Prepared insulation loses flammability and attractiveness to rodents.
Nuances of use
For insulation, it is best to take large sawdust: they are lighter, less dependent on humidity. The best solution would be wood shavings. Its rings form an elastic coating filled with air. The waste received as a result of processing of plywood is not suitable. They contain a high percentage of formaldehyde and are unsafe for health. In addition, they have significant thermal conductivity.
When choosing sawdust as a heater, it is important to remember that this will not be justified everywhere. So, it is not the best option to use them in a bath due to flammability and low moisture resistance. It is hardly worth pouring clean sawdust in rooms characterized by high humidity. Although the addition of the components mentioned earlier will expand their scope.
Most often, sawdust is used as a heater in one-story frame houses. Of course, they can carry out the thermal insulation of the entire structure, but they are mainly used for the floor, less often for roofs. For wall insulation, it is better to choose sheet, roll or sprayed products. According to reviews, it is much more convenient to mount them on vertical surfaces if the financial component plays the main role.
Warming of various designs
1. Thermal insulation of the ceiling.
Since 1/5 of all heat loss falls on the ceiling, special attention will have to be devoted to its insulation, and for buildings erected from any building materials. If wood waste is purchased for these purposes, it is required to process it before installation. To carry out the work you will need:
- sealant;
- clay or sand;
- blue vitriol, fluff;
- mounting foam;
- materials with excellent vapor permeability (even ordinary boxes);
- construction stapler.
Before the insulation of the floors with sawdust, seams and joints are sealed. Small gaps are treated with sealant. For large gaps, you need to choose mounting foam. It is important to carry out such preparation not only on the ceiling, but also on the roof, in order to avoid precipitation on the insulation and destruction of the insulation by gusts of wind. However, it is necessary to leave ventilation holes so that the material does not dampen.
The substrate is laid out on a flat and clean surface. The cardboard is placed in several layers with an overlap of up to 30 cm. The joints are fastened with a stapler. It's good if the brackets are set often. It is important to make sure they go right through. Attach the edges to the beams. Then seal the substrate along the perimeter.
Before backfilling, sawdust must be treated with antiseptics. After drying, mix them with 10% fluff and a small amount of copper sulfate. It is possible to insulate a frame house with wood waste using two methods:
- Dry. For the first layer, coarse-grained material or chips are selected. Then it is covered with small sawdust. Thanks to this, wood dust does not fall from the ceiling and thermal insulation improves. During installation, it is permissible to slightly moisten wood waste so that they lie more densely. The final layer is 25-30 cm. Cooled ash, sand or clay is poured on top. Such measures will improve the quality of the insulation, protecting it from rodents and mold.
- Wet (they can also insulate walls). Wet sawdust that has lain for more than a year, without traces of mold and fungus, is suitable here. Combine shavings and cement. Gradually adding water, do not stop stirring. The final proportions of chips, cement and liquid are 20:2:3. Do not dilute large portions of the mixture, as it quickly hardens. Sawdust is poured onto the substrate and compacted. The layer thickness is 6-10 cm. After the coating has dried, it is better to mount a boardwalk over it.
2. Wall insulation.
- To provide space for the embankment, a crate is performed. A draft facade is attached to it from the outside. To insulate the walls, the shavings are combined with clay, forming sawdust-expanded clay. You can work with such a mixture in any season.
- Another method is also common, when dry wood waste embedded in the walls is doused with liquid clay or fire retardants. Moreover, the upper part of the gap is left unfilled for the evaporation of moisture. This option is applicable only at positive temperature.
The main feature of the thermal insulation of a frame house is a thick layer. It is achieved through a combined technology. Its essence lies in the creation of additional frames. This option allows you to achieve the desired thickness of the walls.
3. Thermal insulation of the floor.
A great solution would be sawdust with lime as a floor insulation. Moreover, the fluff will be at least 1/10 of the material. To make it easier to bring it to a homogeneous consistency, the mixture is poured onto a flat shield, and then kneaded with a shovel. The flowability of the insulation causes subsidence of the insulating layer. You can fix the problem by adding gypsum.
The ratio of the three components should be 85:10:5 (sawdust/lime/gypsum). To prevent premature solidification of the composition, it is prepared in small portions. The process of floor insulation itself includes a number of points:
- dismantling of floors (if necessary);
- attaching cranial bars to them;
- subfloor laying (using low-grade wood);
- treatment with antiseptic and flame retardant substances;
- laying covering material;
- pouring 10 cm layer of wood waste;
- the drying period of the insulation is a day (its shrinkage can reach 3 cm in this case);
- installation of a finishing flooring.
This method is suitable for floor insulation at the lower level. When insulating floors between floors, the thickness of the poured wood waste should be tripled.
Once upon a time, there was no mineral wool, polystyrene and other newfangled materials for insulation, but our grandfathers and great-grandfathers lived in warm houses. Sawdust as a heater was then the most popular way to save heat in the house, and today it is also a very economical option.
Economical option - sawdust as a heater
The cost of modern heaters makes you think about a more economical option. That's when the idea comes about how to properly use banal sawdust as a heater. Living in a holiday village, you can get them at any sawmill, and there this stuff will be given to you almost for free.
Sawdust in its pure form, as it is, is rarely used in construction - nevertheless, they need pre-treatment, which will protect them from rot, fire and rodents. To do this, waste from the woodworking industry is mixed with cement, clay or lime. Such heaters are suitable for the roof and for walls, with their help you can make.
Do-it-yourself sawdust insulation - sawdust concrete and wood concrete
At home, you can make sawdust concrete and wood concrete with your own hands. Sawdust concrete is a mixture of sawdust, cement, sand, lime and water. From this mixture, fire-resistant blocks can be made, which are no worse than cinder blocks. However, such a heater needs protection from moisture. If the floor is insulated with such blocks, then it is recommended to lay a layer of roofing material on top of it, and only then lay floor coverings. Often sawdust concrete blocks are used for the construction of utility rooms, sheds.
For its manufacture you will need (per cubic meter) 1200 kg of cement, 1500 kg of sand, 600 kg of lime and 220-250 kg of sawdust. The amount of water for mixing sawdust concrete is different, depending on the moisture content of the materials, it ranges from 250 to 350 liters. We make a batch and lay out the thoroughly mixed mass in prepared forms. We properly tamp the mass and tap it intensively for several minutes on the surface of the mold, so that all the voids are filled from the vibration in the sawdust concrete, and it sags well.
The resulting blocks should not be used immediately after production - the sawdust concrete will acquire its necessary qualities (frost resistance, strength) in a few months, so if you are planning to build in the fall, prepare the blocks in the spring.
Fresh sawdust concrete should be sprinkled with water in summer, and covered with roofing paper during heavy rains. Block walls should be plastered 4-6 months after laying. It is important to dampen the walls before plastering. Back in the last century, at the state level, wood concrete was developed and approved for use - a mixture of cement, wood chips and chemical additives. It is much lighter than sawdust concrete, at the industrial level it is used in the form of finished slabs, not only as a heater, but also as a soundproofing material.
Everyone can make such a heater from sawdust with their own hands, but the whole process will cost much less than. To do this, first prepare the material: treat the sawdust with an antiseptic solution, dry it well and place it with slaked lime. It is lime that will protect the insulation from rodents. Not much lime is needed - about 10% by weight of sawdust. For ease of mixing, materials should be poured into a large container. Already this mixture can be used for insulation, falling asleep in the cavity with a layer of 20-30 cm.
However, it will not be superfluous to eliminate the flowability of such a heater in order to prevent it from settling in the future. If you decide to act in this way, you do not need to dry the sawdust, on the contrary, they should be slightly damp. Gypsum should also be added to the resulting mixture of sawdust and lime, no more than 5% in relation to sawdust. This mass should be prepared in small portions, since the gypsum sets very quickly, and the material can harden even before you prepare the place for laying the insulation. If there is no gypsum, it can be replaced by cement in the same proportions. Gypsum and cement will draw out excess moisture from the sawdust.
Sawdust house insulation technology
Most often, summer residents insulate houses with sawdust, due to the economy of the material and the simplicity of the process. Having chosen areas for insulation, we prepare a mixture of sawdust, lime and gypsum (cement). For ease of measurement, use the same bucket, then you will get 1 bucket of lime and half a bucket of cement for 10 buckets of sawdust. If you want to make the solution stronger, you can add more cement, but keep in mind that the more cement, the lower the thermal insulation properties of our insulation will be. As an antiseptic, you can use boric acid, which should be diluted in 5-10 liters of water (depending on the moisture content of the materials) and pour the prepared mixture from the watering can.
To check if the mixture is ready, take a little in your hand and squeeze - if the resulting lump does not crumble, our insulation is ready. The resulting material is poured into areas that require insulation. Carefully tamp the mixture with a shovel and leave it to harden. After one or two weeks, check if voids have formed in our insulation, if any are found, eliminate them with a new portion of the mixture.
Roof insulation with clay and sawdust - step by step instructions
The cheapest and most practical way to insulate the ceiling is to prepare insulation from clay and sawdust. Such material is fire-resistant, affordable, quite light and easy to manufacture. Simple roof insulation with clay and sawdust can be repeated by everyone in their country house.
How to insulate a roof with clay and sawdust - step by step diagram
Step 1: Prepare the surface.
The ceiling needs to be prepared first. Since the mixture will be quite liquid, it is recommended to lay something waterproof on the ceiling boards, such as ordinary film. It is better to attach it with a construction stapler to a tree so that it does not crumple. You can also insulate the attic simply with sawdust, but in this case they should at least be treated with an antiseptic. Some summer residents recommend adding dry tobacco leaves and broken glass to sawdust - so that pest rodents do not establish entire settlements on your roof. However, with such insulation, you will definitely need to lay boards or other covering on top, otherwise you will not be able to fully exploit the attic.
Sawdust is called shavings that remain as a result of woodworking. Insulation with sawdust for roofs, floors and other surfaces has been used for a long time, they perfectly retain heat, release wood resins, and also play the role of a baking powder filler.
In old village houses, floors made from a mixture of clay and sawdust serve for a long time without damage. In industry, wood blocks, sawdust pellets, wood concrete and sawdust concrete are produced on the basis of sawdust. The main advantages of sawdust are their thermal insulation qualities and low cost.
Sawdust is widely used in daily life.
There are several main areas of sawdust use - from agricultural to construction (sound and heat insulation).
Insulation with sawdust - tradition and modernity
Now it is difficult to find a more economical insulation than sawdust. At the moment, various building materials are used to insulate floors and ceilings of rooms, roofs, wall structures and interfloor ceilings. However, it is sawdust as a heater mixed with shavings and slag that is the most economical raw material for the implementation of the insulation system of structures of almost any kind. Of course, in the 21st century, the use of sawdust for insulation may seem like a banality, but no one has canceled the excellent heat and sound insulation properties of wood and its purity from an environmental point of view.
For example, ceiling insulation with sawdust is a good way of thermal insulation, which has been used for a long time in the construction industry. You can argue about the pros and cons of this option for a long time. Sawdust is often used in the construction of residential and commercial buildings. Naturally, this technology implies following certain rules.
Hard-to-reach areas are covered with sawdust: first they are mixed with other components, and then they are rammed. It turns out a wood block of the required shape with excellent physical qualities.
Sawdust prepared in an appropriate way is used to warm the house. First, the raw material is treated with an antiseptic, then it is thoroughly dried and mixed with the so-called. "lime-fluff". The latter is necessary in order to protect the thermal insulation system from pests.
Sawdust in its pure form can insulate the floor, walls, attic, ceilings and various hard-to-reach areas where it is impossible to use other insulation.
Sawdust has only 2 drawbacks - they refer to sawdust without impurities that have not been processed. Dry clean sawdust is flammable and rodents breed in them. For this reason, sawdust is mixed with cement, lime or gypsum and moistened with an antiseptic solution. The finished mixture is not subject to fire, and pests avoid it.
It is best to use sawdust insulation in 1-storey frame houses in case of self-construction. To work, you need to prepare the following:
- Sawdust;
- Cement;
- Lime;
- Wood antiseptic - copper sulfate or boric acid;
- Lake;
- Mix container;
- Mixer or shovel.
The thickness of the layer is influenced by the local average annual temperature and the functional purpose of the building. For living in the warm season, 25 centimeters are enough - ceilings and 15 centimeters - walls. If the house provides for permanent residence, then the layer should be increased to 30 centimeters. For this purpose, racks are added to the frame, which form an additional backfill volume.
The sections of the passage of electrical wiring and chimneys are reinforced with fire-resistant materials. Electrical wiring is best hidden in metal pipes with a wall thickness of three millimeters or more. Fire hazardous places - switches, sockets, heating wiring, etc. should be laid out using non-combustible materials.
There is no need for vapor barrier - the cement in the solution absorbs excess moisture, and the wood block will be stronger. When the sawdust is fresh, they contain substances that prevent the cement from binding to water and the mixture is fragile. Therefore, sawdust is allowed to stand for 2 months or slightly moistened with liquid glass.
How to properly insulate with sawdust
The backfill solution is prepared as follows: sawdust - 10 buckets, cement - 1 part, lime - 1 (or 0.5) buckets. During the mixing process, sawdust is coated with lime and cement. After that, you need to dilute an antiseptic in water and spray the water with a garden watering can.
After stirring the mixture, try to squeeze it with your hand. The mixture is considered ready when the lump does not crumble and it is impossible to squeeze water out of it.
Then the sawdust is poured into the necessary places and rammed in layers. Full maturation of the blocks occurs for at least 2 weeks, while it is advisable to regularly ventilate the room. After filling, you need to wait a few weeks to make sure that all the voids are filled, and fill in the missing.
You can make warm plaster from sawdust: water, cement, clay and newsprint are added to them. Such plaster is used in interior work. It is also possible to make sheets of the required size from the mixture in molds, compact and let it ripen. Sheets are used at their discretion as thermal insulation.
Floor insulation with sawdust
You will rarely find floor insulation with sawdust in its pure form today, since wood has the ability to ignite easily and burn well. Now, various heaters are made on the basis of sawdust: sawdust pellets, slab heaters (arbolite), ecowool.
Ecowool makes it possible to insulate floors by spraying or manually. Here you will need a special blowing machine, and you will have to resort to the services of professionals. The purchase of a whole device for one-time use is unprofitable, and with the manual method, material consumption is 40 percent more.
For areas where the temperature in winter does not exceed -20ºС, it would be optimal to make an insulation layer with a thickness of 15 centimeters or more. If you live in more severe weather conditions, here for every 5ºС you need to add 4 centimeters of insulation.
Chipboard: its distinctive characteristics
Chipboard is made from sawdust. This material allows you to insulate the subfloor immediately, without prior preparation. First of all, the primer should be carefully leveled, and for waterproofing, then you need to lay a polyethylene film.
After that, the chipboards are laid directly on the polyethylene film. Thus, chipboard will serve as both a heater and a final coating. The material can be attached to the base with anchors, expanding dowels and other methods.
Chipboard is not allowed to be used as a final coating in places with high humidity - cellars, garages due to its non-moisture resistance. Since cellar floors will not be subjected to high loads, chipboard can be glued to concrete using molten bitumen or construction adhesive. By making a double insulation layer, you will increase the temperature in the basement and prevent dampness.
Wall insulation with sawdust
In order to insulate walls and partitions with sawdust, you need to prepare a mixture according to the following recipe:
Dry clean sawdust is mixed with lime in a certain proportion: sawdust - 10 parts, lime - 1 part, or with gypsum in a ratio of 8 to 1. The resulting mixture is slightly moistened with an antiseptic solution (25 grams per 1 bucket of water), poured into the walls of the house, and then compacted. After such treatment, the sawdust layer will not sag, and the antiseptic eliminates the possibility of pests appearing in the backfill.
Wooden blocks can be easily obtained by yourself. For this material, sawdust, cement and copper sulfate are used. Sawdust is evenly moistened with a solution of copper sulfate, then mixed with cement in the following proportion: 10 parts of sawdust to 1 part of cement. This is enough for the wood chips to be covered with a uniform layer of cement. Water should be taken so much that the lump of the prepared mixture does not immediately fall apart. The mixture should feel slightly moist, but the water should not be squeezed out of it.
The resulting mixture is poured onto the waterproofing layer in the walls and in the floors of the house. The mixture is carefully compacted after each filling, since its shrinkage subsequently depends on the quality and density of compaction of the material. Due to the fact that the sawdust retains moisture, and they are placed wet, the cement immediately begins to set, forming a wooden block. After complete drying, a strong solid layer is obtained - it almost does not sag underfoot, but only crunches. Thus, as a result of the technological chain, a material with excellent heat and sound insulation qualities is obtained.
Ceiling sawdust insulation
The issue of thermal insulation should be approached very responsibly, since about 20% of all heat in the room goes through the ceiling. Ceiling insulation with sawdust is much cheaper than other insulation options.
How to properly insulate the ceiling with sawdust:
Work begins with the fact that the rough ceiling is covered with glassine. Ceiling boards are treated with fire protection. Here, sawdust stored for 1 year or more is best suited, otherwise the cement may not seize. In this case, the sawdust should be non-wet and without the smell of mold.
Sawdust is kneaded in a water-cement mortar in a ratio of 10 to 1. You need to take enough water to make the mixture slightly wet. 1.5 buckets of water is taken for 10 buckets of sawdust. Wood sawdust is mixed with dry cement with the gradual addition of water. As a result, the chips should be slightly smeared in cement.
The prepared mixture is scattered and tamped between the beams on the floor surface with a 2-centimeter layer. Work is best done in the summer so that everything dries out by autumn. The completely dried mixture does not slip under your feet, but only slightly crunches.
Sawdust fractions are different. The smaller the sawdust, the more water you need to take for wetting. Accordingly, the amount of cement will also have to be increased. When the sawdust is fresh, more cement is required. However, the more cement is in the composition of the mixture, the lower the thermal insulation properties of the material will be.
Thus, sawdust can be successfully used in creating a good insulating layer in the construction of summer cottages, country houses, as well as various outbuildings. During insulation with sawdust, a number of specific nuances should be taken into account. However, by producing insulation in accordance with all the rules and technological requirements, you will end up with a dry and warm room for many years.
Insulation with sawdust
Sawdust insulation of roofs, floors and other surfaces has been used for a long time, as they perfectly retain heat and are unique in terms of efficiency.
Features of floor insulation with sawdust
- Features of floor insulation with sawdust
- What sawdust can be used for floor insulation?
- Guidelines for preparing the floor for insulation
- Step by step instructions for floor insulation
- Using a mixture with gypsum or lime
Currently, floor insulation with sawdust is very popular. This is a very affordable material with good thermal insulation characteristics. However, in order for the floor insulation to be as successful and of high quality as possible, you must first of all choose the right sawdust. The ideal option is to go to the forest on your own, chop a sufficient amount of firewood there, make sawdust and use it to insulate the floor. Sawdust must be varnished. Its smell will repel insects and other pests. Before insulating the floor, the sawdust must be allowed to dry. If they are not dried enough, then after a short time such a heater will begin to rot. While the sawdust is drying, you can prepare the floor for the upcoming thermal insulation.
Sawdust, due to its availability and good thermal insulation characteristics, are very popular as a heater.
Features of floor insulation with sawdust
Before you start insulating the floor of your house with sawdust, decide on the following important points:
- Operating conditions of floors (purpose of the room, temperature and humidity conditions, level of load).
- Permissible height of the thermal insulation layer and the entire structure.
sawdust thermal conductivity graph.
After you understand these parameters, it will be much easier to decide on the order of floor insulation with sawdust. The technology of such thermal insulation is very simple, it can be handled even without experience. Insulation consists of a layer of heat-insulating material, vapor barrier and floor covering. The work is performed in the following sequence:
- First, wooden logs are laid.
- From below, boards or shields are fixed to the logs. They will serve as the base on which the sawdust is laid.
- Insulation is placed between the lags. Sawdust should be laid as tightly as possible. All gaps between the lags and sheets must be filled with sealant or mounting foam.
- A vapor barrier is laid on the sawdust. It needs to be fixed on the logs. Gaps and joints are sealed with metallic tape.
- Wooden flooring is laid and finishing is carried out.
What sawdust can be used for floor insulation?
Scheme of floor insulation in a wooden house.
It is very important to choose the right sawdust, which will provide the most effective thermal insulation of the floor. Small sawdust has the best characteristics. Such material is formed when sawing wood. However, their weight is much less than the weight of large chips. In addition, a lot of dust remains during the sawing process.
It is best to use wood sawdust for floor insulation. Such material is characterized by very low humidity, because. it is formed during the processing of already dried wood. Such sawdust is the least susceptible to rotting and beetle damage.
Wood blocks can be used to insulate the floor. They are made from cement, copper sulphate and sawdust itself. This material is characterized by high efficiency, but it is usually used for insulation in houses under construction, and not in ready-made buildings.
Pellets or granules are widely used. Such a granular material is obtained from a mixture of sawdust with carboxymethyl cellulose glue and an antiseptic flame retardant. Thanks to these components, the insulation has very high thermal insulation properties, practically does not support combustion and does not rot.
Floor insulation option.
Another widely used option is sawdust concrete. It is obtained by mixing sawdust (usually softwood), cement, water and sand. The thermal conductivity of this material is comparable to that of slag concrete. Due to the fact that the insulation contains sawdust, it will be necessary to ensure its waterproofing on both sides.
Also, wood concrete can be used to insulate the floor. This material is obtained by mixing sawdust with cement and various organic additives. Slabs with high rates of sound and heat insulation are made from wood concrete. The material does not support combustion. It is very easy to process and is characterized by high bending strength. The main disadvantage of wood concrete is that it does not tolerate moisture.
All of these materials are used for floor insulation. However, the most common and preferred option is to use sawdust in its pure form.
Guidelines for preparing the floor for insulation
Ordinary sawdust obtained as a result of sawing logs must be treated with an antiseptic and allowed to dry well. You need to know that sawdust is an excellent habitat for various kinds of rodents and other pests. Therefore, the material is usually mixed with slaked lime, clay, gypsum, etc.
It is very important to eliminate the flowability of the insulation. If this is not done, then after a while the insulation layer may begin to settle, and the insulation will begin to transmit heat.
The scheme of insulation with sawdust of a wooden coating.
To change the loose structure of sawdust to a solid one, they are again mixed with gypsum and lime. Such processing eliminates the need to dry sawdust before insulating the floor.
It is important to keep in mind that gypsum hardens quickly enough, so the mixture for insulation must be prepared in small portions. Instead of lime, you can use lime dough, but it will need about 2 times more. Gypsum is often replaced with cement.
Prepare tools and materials that will help you perform floor insulation:
- cement;
- lime;
- watering can;
- wood preservative (usually boric acid or copper sulfate is used);
- shovel;
- a container for preparing the mixture;
- sawdust.
Step by step instructions for floor insulation
The most effective, simple and common way to insulate the floor with sawdust is thermal insulation along the logs. This technology is especially well suited for warming those floors that are close to the ground (basement and first floors).
The finished mixture should be laid in relatively small layers. The specific thickness is determined according to climatic conditions. In regions with a temperate climate, a layer of insulation about 20-25 cm thick is usually sufficient. If the house is not used for permanent residence, then the layer thickness can be reduced.
Floor insulation along the lags is performed in the following order. First, wooden logs are installed on the foundation or in the log house. They must be installed in a T-shaped frame with approximately the same pitch from 60 to 100 cm. After that, the base for the insulation is fixed in the form of boards or shields. They are fixed on the cranial bars or sutured from below.
Next, you need to lay insulation on the prepared flooring. A layer of waterproofing is laid on top of it, and then a vapor barrier material. Sheets of vapor barrier material must be overlapped by 10-15 cm. The edges of the film are bent to a height of about 10 cm. The most common and budget option for vapor barrier is ordinary polyethylene film. Finally, the floorboards are installed on the floor and the selected topcoat.
On the first floors of the house, floor insulation can be performed along logs laid on brick columns. In this case, the logs are installed on such posts on a wooden gasket. Sawdust is laid between the lags and covered with a layer of vapor barrier material.
One of the advantages of floor insulation with sawdust along the logs is the simplicity and speed of work. Almost any person can cope with such thermal insulation, even if he has never had to do this before. This method is highly efficient. The insulation will not experience mechanical stress, which significantly increases its service life.
Using a mixture with gypsum or lime
To make the insulation more reliable and of high quality, sawdust must be mixed with lime and gypsum. The order of warming practically does not differ from that considered earlier. The main thing is to correctly determine the required amount of gypsum and lime. Rigorous calculations are not needed here. It is most convenient to count in buckets: for 10 buckets of sawdust, you need to take 1 bucket of lime and 1 bucket of gypsum (can be replaced with cement).
Future thermal insulation should be sprayed with an antiseptic. 5-10 liters of water are added to the mixture. Before use, be sure to check the moisture content of the mixture. To do this, squeeze it into a ball. If the lump does not crumble, then the insulation is ready for use.
The resulting mixture must be filled with all areas that need thermal protection. The mixture is carefully compacted. After that, it must be left for a while so that it “ripens”. After about 2 weeks, check the thermal insulation for voids. If any are found, the process will need to be repeated.
Thus, there is nothing difficult in warming the floor with sawdust. Follow the instructions, and you will create high-quality and effective thermal insulation yourself with minimal cash costs. Successful work!
Do-it-yourself floor insulation with sawdust: step by step instructions (video)
Insulation of floors with sawdust is carried out using a mixture of sawdust, gypsum and lime. The simplest and fastest in execution is the method of warming along the lags.
How to insulate a frame house with sawdust on your own?
During the processing of wood, sawdust is formed, but you should not throw it away, as it is a good and inexpensive insulation. They can be used to insulate ceilings, walls, floors and other surfaces.
The main advantages of sawdust are that they are inexpensive, have high thermal insulation properties and all the work on their installation can be done by hand.
Material features: advantages and disadvantages
Despite the fact that different building materials are used to build walls and create a ceiling, you are unlikely to find a more economical insulation than this one. It is sawdust, shavings and slag that are the most profitable heaters and they can be used to insulate any structure.
Some people are skeptical about such insulation as sawdust, but they are wrong, since wood has high rates of heat and sound insulation, and no one will deny that it is an environmentally friendly and cheap insulation. Sawdust as a heater can be used to insulate both a wooden or frame house, and any other building.
They can be used not only for wall insulation, but also for ceiling and floor insulation. Sawdust is a cheap way to insulate walls and ceilings, and you can do all the work yourself. If your house has an area of about 150 square meters, then the difference, if you insulate it with basalt wool and sawdust, will be about 70,000 rubles, and this is a lot of money.
We add that other materials can also be used for wall insulation, for example, penoplex, its use is described in detail in this review publication.
You should not take it literally that when insulating walls, ceilings or floors with your own hands, clean shavings are used. In order to insulate the house, it is necessary to prepare a mixture that has the following composition:
- 10 pieces of sawdust;
- 1 part lime;
- 1 part cement;
- some water with antiseptic and anti-burning agents.
Electrical wiring and gas pipes cannot be passed through the layer of sawdust, and materials that block steam cannot be used.
Another advantage of carrying out insulation with sawdust with lime is that they can easily fill hard-to-reach places, which is not always possible if another insulation is used.
The disadvantages of sawdust is that they are flammable and rodents breed in them, but this is the case when you carry out insulation with sawdust in its pure form. If the chips are mixed with lime, cement and moistened with a special solution, then the described shortcomings disappear, and such material can be used to insulate walls, ceilings or floors in a frame house or other type of cottage.
To do the work yourself, you will need:
- sawdust;
- lime;
- cement;
- boric acid or copper sulfate they are an antiseptic;
- water;
- watering can;
- container for mixing;
- shovel or concrete mixer.
How to make a mixture and how to carry out installation?
Depending on the area where the work will be carried out, the thickness of the layer of such insulation may be different. For wall insulation, a layer of 15-20 cm will be enough, and for a ceiling of 25-30 cm, if the climate is cold, then these figures can be increased.
Those places where electrical wiring of gas pipes or a chimney will be carried out must be sheathed with fire-resistant materials. For wiring, you can use a metal sack with a wall thickness of 3 mm. Non-combustible materials are also sheathed in places where switches and sockets will be installed.
Experts do not recommend vapor barrier when insulating with sawdust with lime and cement, since the composition contains cement, and it absorbs excess moisture. In order to check the quality of the finished mixture, you need to take it in your hand and squeeze it into a lump.
It should not crumble, but water should not flow from it either. Insulation with sawdust is carried out in layers and each layer must be well rammed. It is necessary to wait a few weeks, during which time the mixture may settle, and it will be necessary to refill it.
The maturation of the blocks occurs for 2 weeks, at this time it is necessary to regularly ventilate the room.
If you mix shavings with clay, cement, newsprint and water, then with this mixture you can plaster the walls or ceiling in the room with your own hands. If such a mixture is poured into special forms, then sheets can be obtained and used as a heat-insulating material.
Note that today penofol is often used in internal insulation work, we advise you to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of penofol, as well as its advantages and disadvantages.
Ceiling insulation work
This part of the house must be insulated especially carefully, since about 20% of all heat escapes through the ceiling. To insulate the ceiling with sawdust, it is first covered with glassine, before that it is necessary to process the beams.
After you have prepared a mixture of sawdust, lime and cement, it is poured over the surface of the roof and rammed. It is better to do this in the summer so that the mixture dries faster. After the mixture dries, it does not bend under the weight of a person, only its crunch is possible.
The amount of water that is used to prepare the mixture will depend on the fraction of sawdust, the smaller they are, the more water is needed. For fresh sawdust, you need to take more cement, but this will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of the resulting material.
Features of the application for the floor
The use of sawdust in its pure form for floor insulation is rarely used. For these purposes, it is better to use modern materials based on sawdust.
To insulate the floor with sawdust, the mixture should be filled with a thickness of 15 cm at frosts down to -20 degrees. If the temperature in your area drops by 5 degrees, then the layer of sawdust should be increased by 4 cm.
For the floor, a material is used that is made from sawdust, this is chipboard. Usually they are used for black flooring, while no preparatory work is performed.
The soil is leveled and covered with a film, which will serve as a waterproofing, after which the plates are laid, dowels, anchors or other methods can be used to fasten them. This material cannot be used as a finishing coat if there is high humidity in the room.
Partition wall applications
First, a mixture of sawdust is prepared, and then it is poured into the walls of the house in layers and is well rammed.
Since the mixture is laid wet, the cement begins to set immediately and thus a wooden block is obtained, which has high heat and sound insulation qualities.
Scheme of the wall for insulation work
The wall of a frame house, in which sawdust is used as a heater, will have the following design, starting from the inside of the building:
- finishing material, such as lining;
- glassine;
- frame, between the racks of which chips are filled;
- plywood and wind protection;
- framing and exterior finishes such as siding.
The so-called clay concrete has good thermal insulation qualities. It is obtained by mixing sawdust with clay, lime, cement or gypsum and water.
In order to make 1 cube of clay concrete, you will need 200 kilograms of sawdust, 30 kilograms of cement, 70 kilograms of lime, 300 kilograms of clay and 350 liters of water. With such a ratio of all components with clay, the mass of the finished mixture will be about 550-600 kg / m3.
After swelling, everything is covered with clay, and after drying, the chips are firmly bound and preserved, therefore they do not rot and a durable, reliable and inexpensive material is obtained. First, sawdust, lime and cement are mixed well, and only after that everything can be mixed with clay. It is not necessary to compact such a mixture as carefully as concrete. The less it is compacted, the higher will be its heat and sound insulation qualities, but less strength.
Many people treat this heater with caution, often guided by unfounded prejudices and speculation.
Speaking about the cheapness of such material, one must take into account the fact that some organizations can indeed give them away for free or for a symbolic price, but one must take into account the cost of transportation.
In addition, you will have to spend money on acquiring lime, cement and a lot of physical effort, but it is still cheaper than using other heaters.
When choosing this type of insulation, you need to weigh all its advantages and disadvantages, and only after that you can decide whether insulation with sawdust is suitable in your case or you need to make another choice.
Does it matter the type of wood from which we use sawdust for insulation? And how long does such insulation take approximately (an area of approximately 50 sq.m.)?
We use sawdust as a heater for the ceiling, walls and floor
Is it possible to use sawdust with clay to insulate walls, floors and ceilings in a frame house? How expedient is this, what are the pros and cons, and how to do the installation yourself?
Ceiling insulation with sawdust in a private house: step-by-step instructions
From the author: hello dear reader! If you are interested in the topic of ceiling insulation, then you have probably already heard about all kinds of heaters. Yes, the modern market offers a great variety of building materials, as they say, for every taste and color. But, as a rule, modern heaters cost a lot. But the insulation of the ceiling with sawdust is a completely different matter! This is an affordable, environmentally friendly material, which, in essence, is not inferior to its counterparts.
Today we’ll just talk about whether it is possible to insulate the ceiling and / or floor with sawdust. In any area of repair work, there are nuances that you need to know in order to achieve the desired result. And if we are talking about non-standard, specific building materials, the more work must be done with skill. In general, read the contents of this article - and you will succeed.
Let's face it, working with wood waste is not very convenient. I had to deal with both "professional" heaters and "amateur" ones, like sawdust. And, based on experience, I can say that, for example, it is much more pleasant and easier to work with polystyrene foam.
But by no means do I dissuade you from sawdust. It's more of a warning. And so the waste of the woodworking industry has many advantages. Among them we highlight the following:
- question price. Here, I think, everything is clear. Wood waste is incomparably cheaper than polystyrene foam or mineral wool. In addition, if desired, they can generally be obtained for free, moreover, by completely legal methods;
- ecological purity. Indeed, such a heater will in no way harm your health;
- ease of work. Yes, the material is not the most convenient for use in construction, but working with it does not require special skills, education, diplomas. This is really the case when it is possible to do the work, guided only by information from the Internet.
Varieties
You will probably be surprised, but even woodworking industry waste has varieties.
For example, wood shavings, which we have already mentioned in passing. It differs from standard sawdust in that to obtain it, wood is drilled or planed. Such waste is larger than just sawdust, which in its structure is more like dust. The average length of the chips is 4 cm.
In turn, sawdust is also different: very small - from a few millimeters to several centimeters in length. The size depends on what kind of processing the tree was previously subjected to.
Among other things, the difference lies in the type of wood. As a rule, these are hard woods such as ash, spruce or pine, as they are widely used in carpentry.
How to properly insulate your ceiling? If we compare small and large wood waste, then it is preferable, of course, small. But in their mass, their density will be higher than that of large ones, therefore, such an insulating layer will have more weight.
Again, choose carpentry waste, because the wood is pre-dried for this purpose. Moreover, it is dried not just in the open air, in the rays of a star named the Sun, but forcibly, at extreme temperatures, using special equipment.
Therefore, such waste from the woodworking industry will be inedible for various insects, and the likelihood that mold will start in them will be minimized. Unless, of course, the material gets wet before laying, say, in the rain.
Those wastes that resulted from sawing logs are more humid. They just need to be dried. It will be great if they lie under the sun during the summer. Naturally, in the process they must be periodically shoveled. Not to be protected from the rain, of course.
We have dealt with the types of material. Now let's talk about what we need in order to get started.
Necessary tools and materials for work
For convenience, we present everything you need in the form of a list:
- actually, sawdust;
- slag/clay/sand;
- lime;
- copper case/boric acid;
- corrugated cardboard or other material that will be used as a substrate. The main thing is that it has a high transmittance rate. In fact, any cardboard will do: boxes from under refrigerators, washing machines and other equipment will boldly go into business. In local supermarkets and electronics stores, this stuff can be given away “thank you”. Or for a nominal fee. The main thing is that the cardboard sheets are dry, without the slightest hint of dampness;
- polyurethane foam, gun;
- sealant;
- antiseptic. This is a guarantee of conscientious construction, because fungal formations not only emit substances harmful to health, but also gradually destroy, literally, “eat up” wood and other building materials;
- flame retardant;
- water repellent;
- an awl with a long point;
- a construction stapler, of course, with a strategic supply of staples;
- adhesive tape / masking tape.
Now you can start taking action.
Stages of work
Now we will consider the stages of work with the details and nuances that you need to know to achieve the desired result. And we will start, of course, with the preparatory stage.
Warming in a wooden private house with sawdust implies preliminary protection of wooden structures. Even if during the construction of the house all these measures were observed, prevention will never be superfluous. So, let's start processing:
- antiseptic treatment;
- treatment with means of protection against fire and high temperatures;
- water repellent treatment to protect the wood from moisture.
Another important nuance. Examine the entire structure in detail. If you find a rotten section of the board somewhere, it must be replaced. You shouldn't skimp on this. And one more thing: from the side it may not be noticeable that the board / log has a rotten area. Therefore, take an awl with a long point and pierce the supporting structures along the entire length. This way you can identify rotten areas that need to be replaced. It may even be necessary to replace the entire board / log.
Now clean the boards from dust and small debris, then lay the cardboard. If it is thin, then lay it in several layers with an overlap of 15–30 cm - sawdust should not seep between the seams. If you are laying a cardboard backing in one layer, glue the joints with masking tape / adhesive tape - anything, as long as it is fixed.
Then fix the sheets of the substrate with a stapler. Make sure that all layers are captured, if, in fact, the cardboard was laid in several layers. The edges that are in contact with the supporting structures (beams) are also fixed with brackets. Then walk around the perimeter with mounting foam.
Now you can start backfilling the insulation itself. To do this, there are, neither more nor less - two ways: with the use of cement and without it. Let's consider both.
So, the dry method of backfilling:
If you have large and small waste from the woodworking industry - great! Pour the insulation in two layers: the first should consist of larger ones, the second - of small elements.
Spread large wood waste in a layer, 10–15 cm thick, then tamp it down properly. Then pour a layer of small sawdust of the same thickness, and then tamp it down as well.
20-30 cm layer of insulation will be enough. Lay slag/ash on top. Naturally, the ash must be completely burnt out and cooled down; it is forbidden to serve it “hot, hot” on the roof for obvious reasons.
In addition to ash / slag, sand / clay is also suitable. In addition to helping to keep warm, this layer will prevent the breeding of fauna represented by insects, rodents and the ubiquitous mold. Yes, an antiseptic is, of course, good, but, as one of my construction comrades used to say, “it’s better to be safe than sorry” ©.
Now let's talk about the second method, which involves the use of cement:
We remember that for work it is necessary to use only dry, settled materials that are not a habitat for fungal colonies. When preparing the mortar, we observe the following proportions: chips / water / cement = 20/3/2. The "cooking recipe" is extremely simple: mix wood waste with cement, gradually add water and continue to mix until "completely ready." In addition, a portion of lime and copper sulfate should be added to the solution.
Now we deliver the solution to the top and pour / pour it between the supporting structures directly onto the substrate. Naturally, it must be leveled and, if possible, compacted. The layer of insulation with this method will no longer be 20–30 cm, but only 5–10 cm, but this is more than enough.
After the solution completely “grabs”, hardens, it will be possible to move around it fearlessly. Sometimes a characteristic crunch can sound under your feet, but this is only a minor side effect.
Now you can lay boards, OSB or other solid material, in other words, mount the attic floor. But if you do not plan to arrange a billiard room, a recreation room or just a storage room on top for what is not needed, but it is a pity to throw it away, then you can not build a floor surface. Although, the use of the attic as an additional living space has recently been increasingly practiced in private homes.
Conclusion
Here, in essence, is all the necessary knowledge that the owner of a private house needs to have, who decided to insulate the roof. Now you know how to insulate your cottage or house with sawdust. Perhaps the only drawback of this method of insulation is the combustibility of the material, so always follow the fire safety requirements - this is how you save your property and your life.
If we talk about security requirements more specifically, this means something like this:
- install separating areas where electrical wiring/chimney runs. There it is worth using some non-combustible material instead of chips;
- "dress" the wires in special boxes / corrugations;
- do not forget about the treatment of wood with fire retardant substances.
That's basically all there is to safety. Not difficult, right?
How to insulate the ceiling with sawdust in a private wooden house
What technology is used to insulate the ceiling with sawdust, what are the advantages of this method of insulation. The specifics of working with this material.
Sawdust is woodworking waste in the form of small shavings and wood dust. This well-known material has been used as a heater for a very long time, as it retains heat well, releases wood resins and is an excellent baking powder filler.
Application area
The beginning of the history of the use of sawdust in low-rise construction goes back to those distant times, when they began to be added to clay and to build ceilings in village houses from this mixture.
Such floors can be called ideal: they served for a very long time, were not damaged in any way, had no flaws and had very significant advantages - low cost and high thermal insulation.
Taking this ancient technology as a basis, modern industry began to produce the same high-quality building materials - granules, wood concrete, concrete with sawdust, wooden blocks.
Also, sawdust continues to be used in low-rise construction. Particularly interested in this material are private developers who insulate walls, floors, ceilings with sawdust, and also use them for other purposes as needed.
Today it is impossible to find a cheaper thermal insulation material than sawdust. For the insulation of roofs, ceilings, interfloor ceilings, floors and wall structures, very different building materials are used. But it is a mixture of cement, gypsum or lime with shavings and sawdust that is extremely economical when insulating any building structure.
Why sawdust processing is needed
To create thermal insulation, sawdust, previously prepared in a special way, is used. Without antiseptic treatment and the addition of impurities, sawdust has two significant drawbacks:
- They get very flammable.
- They harbor rodents and other pests.
Therefore, before starting work, sawdust is mixed with lime, cement or gypsum, and then moistened with an antiseptic solution. The resulting mixture becomes fireproof and unattractive to pests.
Sawdust with lime, as a heater for walls and partitions
To insulate walls and partitions, a mixture of lime and clean dry sawdust is used in a ratio of 1:10. If gypsum is used instead of lime, then a ratio of 1:8 must be observed.
A small amount of an antiseptic solution (25 g per bucket) is introduced into the finished mixture, it is poured into the walls and rammed. With this treatment, sawdust does not sag and is not damaged by pests.
Blocks can be made from sawdust by adding cement and copper sulfate to them as an antiseptic. First, sawdust is moistened with a solution of copper sulfate, and then cement is added to them in the same ratio as lime (1:10). This amount of cement will provide uniform coverage of the chips.
Water should be added as much as the solution needs so as not to disintegrate in the hand when squeezed. In this case, the water should not be squeezed out.
The finished mixture is laid out in ceilings or walls, and after each layer of backfill, it is carefully rammed. The shrinkage of the insulation depends on how well the mixture is compacted.
Cement, when interacting with wet sawdust, immediately begins to set and forms a block. After complete drying, a strong solid layer is formed, which practically does not sag, but only crunches underfoot. Thus, at the end of this technological chain, a material with high sound and heat insulation characteristics is obtained at the output.
Insulate the ceiling with sawdust
The issue of thermal insulation of the ceiling is very important, since about 20% of the heat in the room is lost through it.
The process of ceiling insulation with sawdust consists of the following steps:
- The draft ceiling is covered with glassine
- Boards are treated with fire protection
- Sawdust is added to the water-cement mortar in a ratio of 1:10. The mixture must be wet. To do this, for 10 buckets of sawdust, you need to take 1.5 buckets of water
- The finished mixture is covered with a layer of 2 cm over the surface of the floor and rammed. It is better to do this work in the summer so that everything dries quickly. The dried mixture does not break, but slightly crunches under the foot
If, when insulating with sawdust, all specific nuances are taken into account and work is performed in accordance with technological requirements and rules, then the result will be a dry and warm room that will remain so for many years.
Video about ceiling insulation with sawdust
Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation with sawdust, compositions of solutions based on dust, rules for choosing components for the formation of an insulating layer, methods of laying material.
The content of the article:
Wall insulation with sawdust is the use of waste lumber to create an insulating layer for partitions. Bulk mass refers to environmentally friendly and cost-effective substances. Small fragments after special treatment acquire good insulating properties and have long been used to retain heat in the room. Modern heat insulators have replaced dust, but in the private sector this method is still popular. In the article, we will consider common options for creating protective coatings based on this substance.
Features of using sawdust for wall insulation
Sawdust is wood waste particles obtained after sawing. Bulk mass is considered a universal insulation, but is most often used in one-story houses, baths and houses with attics.
The most cost-effective options are to pour a thick layer of dust or a mixture based on it into the internal openings of the structure or cover the partitions from the outside. Wall insulation with sawdust can be carried out at all stages of construction and operation of the building.
In some cases, clean sawdust increases the risk of fires, for example, if the partitions are very high and there are no fire barriers. When a fire occurs, increased traction occurs, which contributes to the rapid spread of fire. When laying electrical cables, arranging sockets and switches, it is necessary to carefully insulate the wires.
For wall insulation, pure material is used or mixed with other components to change its properties and improve the result. For example, to extend the service life, the waste is impregnated with antiseptics, flame retardants and other means.
Some technologies involve the construction of a frame to hold the insulating "pie", which greatly complicates the work, but reduces the financial cost of repairs.
Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation with sawdust
Dust has long been considered the best way to insulate a house. The advantages of this method of isolation include:
- The absence of components harmful to humans. To prepare the solution, natural materials are used, such as clay, sand, lime, lumber waste.
- Low waste cost. Expenses will go only to the delivery of raw materials.
- Long-term operation of sawdust coating.
- No need to have experience with these materials. No special equipment is required to perform the operations.
- Very low thermal conductivity of the insulating "pie". Such properties are passed from the tree array.
- Sawdust burns well and is a material with a high fire hazard.
- They become a haven for mice, quickly damaged by fungus and mold.
- The insulation layer shrinks, it is necessary to periodically check its condition and fill the voids.
- Dust quickly absorbs moisture. To protect the substance, a waterproof vapor-permeable film is required.
Sawdust wall insulation technology
It is not easy to fix a bulk material coating on a vertical surface. The technology of work requires strict adherence to the sequence of operations, otherwise the effect of the use of the substance will be minimal. The quality of the components will also affect the result. Information on how to properly insulate the walls with sawdust is given below.
Material selection
To prevent heat from passing through the wall, use only high-quality components to create a protective coating. The following information may be helpful when choosing ingredients:
- One of the options for insulating the walls of the house with sawdust is dry backfill. In this case, waste from carpentry workshops is considered ideal, where they work only with high-quality dried wood, without rot and bugs.
- To prepare a solution of sawdust with cement, dust obtained a year ago is needed. During this time, special substances will leave the composition, which prevent the cement from sticking to the fragments with high quality.
- Discard raw materials from the bark. It has a lot of insects that can damage wooden structures.
- Sawdust comes in different sizes. Too small fractions are heavy, and dusty when laying. Large particles do not retain heat well, a lot of cement is spent on the mortar. For the same reason, do not buy shavings. The best option is considered to be medium-sized fragments, devoid of these shortcomings.
- The lightest material is from coniferous trees. It contains a resin that prevents the appearance of fungus and mold. A heavier substance remains after cutting deciduous and fruit trees.
- For warming the bath, larch or oak waste mixed with ash is considered the best. Such a composition resists dampness well.
- Choose greasy clay for mortar, it fills voids well. It can be determined by kneading a lump in your hand. To the touch, it is slippery, like soap, and plastic.
- Waste obtained from sawing or processing natural wood is suitable for bookmarking. You can not use the dust of chipboard, MDF, OSB and other materials for furniture production, which include chemical additives. The reason is too small fractions, practically it is dust.
Preparatory work
Before insulating the walls with sawdust, inspect the partition and determine the possibility of using this method of insulation. It is allowed to cover only those structures that are made of vapor-permeable material. They should not have products that block steam - polyethylene, roofing material, rubimast.
Do the following:
- Clean the surface of dirt. Make sure that there are no sharp objects that could damage the vapor barrier film.
- Cover wooden elements with special compounds to protect against dampness, insects and fire.
- Seal gaps and openings.
- If the insulation is planned to be laid using a crate, cover the wall with a waterproofing film with vapor-permeable properties.
Treat the dust as follows:
- Soak the substance with special means to protect against decay, fungus, insects, rodents and fire. To do this, lay a plastic film under the canopy. Pour a layer of sawdust on it, add an antiseptic and mix. The most popular protective agents are copper sulfate and boric acid. They are added in the proportions specified in the manufacturer's instructions. It is not recommended to use copper sulfate if the bath and sauna are insulated, because. when heated, the chemicals emit harmful fumes.
- Dry the raw material, add flame retardant and repeat the operation. Wait until the mass dries, and add slaked lime to protect against insects and mice. Take the components in the proportion of 5 parts of sawdust to 1 part of lime. Mix the solution thoroughly.
- If a dry laying is planned, the sawdust is thoroughly dried. Usually the procedure is performed in the summer. Pour the loose mixture under the canopy so that the sun does not fall. You can't cover it with foil. At short intervals, the substance should be mixed. By autumn, a small percentage of sugar will remain in it, which reduces the likelihood of decay.
- Remove large fragments, it is recommended to pass the material through a sieve.
- Sawdust for wet solutions can not be dried.
Filling the internal cavities of the walls with sawdust
When building a frame house, partitions are often made of two layers of boards, and the resulting openings are filled with bulk material. So that the dust is not moistened from fumes from a warm room, glassine or other insulator is placed on the wall from the inside. A mixture for filling voids is prepared in several ways.
For dry filling, it is necessary to prepare the components in the following proportion: 90% dry sawdust and 10% fluff lime to repel rodents. Stir the ingredients until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Backfill the walls with sawdust to the top with a slight compaction. After a while, such a composition shrinks a lot, so raise the walls 200-300 mm above the planned level and fill it completely with the composition. After shrinkage, the additional mass will prevent voids from appearing. To close the gaps under the windows, make the window sills retractable.
To avoid shrinkage, substances are added to sawdust that harden over time. The solution is prepared from slightly damp dust and solid ingredients. A mixture of 85% sawdust, 10% fluff lime and 5% gypsum is popular. Other compositions can be used: 1 part of sawdust, 0.3 parts of gypsum or ground boiled and 2 parts of water; 1 part sawdust, 0.4 parts plaster and 2 parts water.
Instead of fluffy lime, lime dough is sometimes added, but they take it twice as much, reducing the percentage of water.
Wet backfill is prepared as follows: alternately pour sawdust and a binder into a wide container and mix first dry, and then again after adding water. The mass must be quickly laid on a regular place and lightly tamped. After 3-5 weeks, the insulator will become completely rigid.
Laying sawdust on the frame
It is problematic to attach a thick layer of sawdust to the surface, so a frame is made. The dimension between the batten wall and the ceiling must be equal to the thickness of the insulating coating. The structures are created from processed boards with a section of 100x50 mm. With internal insulation, the frame is made of aluminum profiles, to which drywall is fixed.
For houses with an area of 28-35 m 2, designed for temporary residence in winter at a frost of 15-20 degrees, the insulation layer should be 15 cm. To live permanently, increase it to 25-30 cm. More precisely, the thickness can be determined by the formulas in GOSTs.
The calculations include the size of the bearing wall, the thermal conductivity of the material from which it is built, the coefficient of the climatic conditions of the region. The result should be equal to the allowable value for your area. The missing indicators are eliminated by increasing the insulation layer.
The order of work is as follows:
- Process sawdust and cement in a dry state in a clean container. The process can be mechanized if there is a concrete mixer.
- Pour some water into the container and mix well. In the finished solution, the dust should be smeared with cement. It is considered of high quality when it does not crumble after clenching in a fist. If water runs out and the lump disintegrates, add chips or leave the substance for 24 hours to evaporate the liquid.
- Lay the mixture in layers of 20-30 cm with tamping. Perform sealing with high quality, otherwise there will be voids through which heat escapes.
- Solidification of the mass at a temperature of +20+25 degrees will begin in 1-2 weeks and lasts a month. At this time, it is necessary to provide fresh air access to the wall and control the shrinkage of the mixture. If voids appear, fill them with the same solution. To reduce drying time, work is best done in the summer.
After filling the cells, sheets of plywood are attached to the racks of the crate (from the side of the street), and windproof material is attached to it. Next, you need to build a ventilation system. To do this, fix the slats 40x40 mm thick to the plywood, to which the cladding is nailed - siding or block house.
Instead of a permanent frame, removable panels 1000 mm high can be used. They are located between the drains of the frame, forming cavities of 200-250 mm along the main wall of the house. Fill the gap with a damp mixture and tamp it down. After drying, remove the panels, install on the already frozen formwork and fix. Then repeat the operations.
Thermal insulation of walls with coating
A solution of dust and clay can be stuck to the wall without a crate, if you choose the right components. To do this, prepare materials in the proportion: 2/3 buckets of sawdust to 1 bucket of clay.
Perform the work in the following sequence:
- Pour clay into a large container and fill with water in a 1: 1 ratio. Leave it to soak for a day.
- Stir the mixture until smooth. If necessary, add water and leave again for 5-6 hours.
- To mix clay with sawdust, you will need a trough with sides 150-200 cm high. Pour the ingredients for one serving into it and mix. The work will go faster if you use a concrete mixer.
On the capital wall, first install beacons to level the insulator. Throw the solution and level with a trowel. It will stick more reliably if the surface is upholstered with shingles. This design can hold a layer no more than 30 mm thick. After drying, the sawdust is covered with sand-cement mortar, and then with plaster.
Installation of sawdust blocks
Sawdust and binder material can be used to make rigid blocks for wall cladding. The most convenient plates for work are 50x50 or 70x70 cm with a thickness of 5-10 cm. In cold areas with a temperature of minus 30 degrees, the thickness is increased to 300-400 mm.
For the preparation of bricks, you will need wooden molds of the required size.
The work is performed in the following sequence:
- Prepare a solution of sawdust and clay in a 1:1 ratio. The process is described in the previous section.
- Lay plywood on a flat surface and cover with plastic wrap.
- Place the form on top.
- Fill the cells with the mixture and compact it. Cut off the protruding mass with the rule flush with the walls of the mold.
- Leave the blanks for a while until hardening, then remove the mold. Further cooling will take place without it.
- Set the freed forms to a new place and repeat the operations.
- Products cannot be dried under the sun, only under a canopy. If you leave blanks in the open air, the clay will crack. Blocks dry for 4-5 weeks.
- To fasten products with a thickness of 100 mm, fix a crate of the same thickness to the wall. Lay the blocks between the slats of the frame and press them with bars that are nailed to the racks of the frame.
- If the thickness of the blocks is 300-400 mm, they are laid on the clay-sand mixture like brickwork, leaving a gap of 70-100 mm to the partition. After erecting the insulation to a height of 1000 mm, fill this opening with expanded clay. Raise the insulator another 1000 mm and repeat the operation. The process ends when the entire structure is covered.
- At the end of the process, plaster the surface with cement mortar.
Wall insulation with sawdust is more labor-intensive compared to the use of factory-made insulators. But the result will pleasantly surprise the owner, and the time spent on work will not be a pity.
