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Independent floor insulation in a wooden house - 3 options for high-quality installation

Most modern people associate wooden houses with comfort and warmth. And in principle, this is true, because wood is a living, natural, breathable material. But many of my friends methodically step on the same rake, forgetting that floor insulation in a wooden house is no less important than wall and roof insulation. In this article, I will first tell you how to insulate the floor in a wooden house in the three most accessible ways, and then I will personally go over the use of each type of insulation specifically for wooden buildings.

Design options for floor insulation in wooden houses

Let's start with the fact that modern wooden houses can be built both on a light pile or strip foundation, and on a monolithic concrete slab, respectively, and the insulation scheme in all these cases will be different.

In addition, the floors in wooden houses can be insulated both from below, that is, from the basement side, and from above, from the living quarters. Naturally, it is easier to do all this during the construction of a house, but not everyone is so lucky and sometimes you have to insulate the floors in an old house, which leaves its mark on the technology.

Any major types of work in wooden houses, including wall and floor insulation, are recommended to be carried out only after the structure shrinks. And this shrinkage in a house assembled from a dry forest lasts about a year. If freshly cut wood was used for construction, then shrinkage can last up to 5-7 years.

Option number 1. Arrangement of thermal insulation in a house with a low underground

Low underground is a disease of most old houses and summer cottages. In my experience, almost all owners who bought or somehow got a cottage built in the old fashioned way, back in Soviet times, face a serious problem of cold, and often rotten floors.

I’ll hasten to reassure you right away, it’s not necessary to break everything, if the log house itself is still intact and strong enough, then you can insulate the floor in a wooden house with your own hands in a few days, and for this, it’s not at all necessary to be a real builder. It is enough to confidently use a hacksaw, drill and hammer.

As you probably already guessed, if in a private house there is a low underground, then the floors will have to be insulated from above. And for this we need to disassemble the entire structure completely, leaving only the supporting logs;

If the boards and skirting boards of the finished floor are in good condition, and you are not in the mood to completely change them, then when you tear off the flooring, be sure to draw a sketch of the masonry for yourself and number each board. This will save you a lot of time and effort when you start to return everything to its place.

• When you have free access to the logs, the first thing to do is to carefully examine the condition of the wood. Logs are a supporting structure, respectively, they must be strong and reliable. If the number of rotten logs does not exceed 20-30%, then you should tinker with their restoration;
• In general, according to the rules, a damaged beam must be completely removed, and the same one should be installed in its place. But this work is not for an amateur, there are too many small, professional subtleties. When I first encountered the problem of partial replacement of the bearing beam, I did it simply. -I cut out the rotten sector, and in its place I inserted the same part of a healthy beam.
  I fixed this sector on self-tapping screws using 4 standard metal corners 35 mm, making an overlap on the old beam of about 50 cm. But if there were no corners at hand, you can fill an ordinary board with a thickness of about 30 mm on both sides;
• Now you can start arranging the subfloor. Opinions on how to do this correctly among builders vary. The classic technology looks something like this: on both sides of each lag, along the lower edge, the so-called bearing cranial beam is stuffed. I recommend taking a section of at least 30x30 mm, if you take it thinner, then it may not withstand the load or burst from a nail or self-tapping screw;

• The distance between the lags often fluctuates around 50 - 70 cm. In our version, the subfloor will be assembled from boards laid on the cranial beam, perpendicular to the lags. Therefore, we will first need to cut these boards and soak them well with an antiseptic, since they are located directly above the ground.
  For these purposes, a non-edged board with a thickness of about 20 - 30 mm is well suited. The question of what can be impregnated is solved simply: the market is full of various impregnations, but I went the simplest way, dipped each board into engine oil;
• I am often asked the question of whether subfloor planks need to be attached to the joists or to the cranial support beam. So, as far as I have seen and done myself, these planks simply fit on the cranial bar and that's it.
  Moreover, when you measure and cut the planks, they need to be made 10 - 15 mm narrower than the gap between the lags. This tolerance is necessary to compensate for temperature and humidity deformations of wood;

• Further, the instruction prescribes to lay a layer of hydro or vapor barrier on the subfloor. The difference is this: if the soil under the house is dry and there is no heavy spring flood in your area, then it is necessary to install a vapor barrier membrane, and so that the steam freely escapes from the insulation, but in no case penetrates from the soil into the insulation.
  Waterproofing is installed in places with a high level of groundwater and on wet soils. As a waterproofing, technical polyethylene or roofing material is most often used. Any of these membranes is covered with a continuous layer of overlap, over the log, so that the subfloor is completely covered, without any gaps or crevices. I usually fix such a canvas with a stapler;
• In the resulting improvised boxes, the insulation you have chosen is laid. What is possible, and also the better to insulate the floor in a wooden house, I will tell you in detail a little later, now we will not dwell on this;

• The presence or absence of a vapor barrier sheet on top of the insulation is determined by what materials were chosen for insulation. But in any case, a small ventilation gap, 20 - 30 mm, should remain between the fine wooden flooring and the insulation layer.
  To do this, if possible, the insulation is mounted a little, below the upper cut of the lag. If this is not possible and the material is laid flush with the joists, then you will have to stuff a wooden counter crate perpendicular to the joists, in increments of 30 - 40 cm.
  Moreover, hydro or vapor barrier, if any, should be under the counter crate. Otherwise, if the finished wooden floor is not provided with proper ventilation from below, the boards will sooner or later begin to deteriorate;
• The top layer, of course, is the finishing wood coating.

Option number 2. We insulate the floor above the cellar

Proper floor insulation from below in a wooden house, in general, is carried out using a similar technology but trust me, it's a lot easier to do it. After all, under the condition of the normal state of the finishing coating, you do not need to disassemble it. Otherwise, the technology is the same, only all actions are performed in reverse.

• According to the rules, in order for the insulation not to “stick” to the finishing coating and the necessary ventilation gap to remain, it is supposed to fill the lag in the upper part, on the border with the finishing floor, a small cranial bar of 20 - 30 mm. But to be honest, I never do that.
  It is much easier to fix the vapor barrier membrane with a stapler, just below the finished floor. No one forces you to clearly measure everything, the main thing is that the ventilation gap remains;
• To mount a cranial beam and hem a draft floor from planks using the previous technology on the basement ceiling, I also do not see much point. After laying the insulation in the niches, so that it does not immediately fall out, I stuff a number of small carnations on the logs and pull on several strings of fishing line or wire;

• Further from the bottom, with the same stapler, a waterproofing sheet is attached to the lags. And on top of this canvas, to strengthen the structure, an unedged board or an ordinary slab is stuffed. If the basement is damp and there is often water in it, then it makes sense to sew a galvanized profile under drywall instead of an unedged board on the ceiling. I usually fasten it in increments of 20 - 30 cm, in any case, it is only needed so that the insulation does not fall out.

According to a similar technology, the second floor is also being equipped, more precisely, a wooden floor between the first and second floors along the logs. The only difference is that instead of a subfloor layer, most often some sheet material, such as plywood or drywall, is sewn from below.

Option number 3. We insulate the floor of a wooden house standing on a concrete slab

The floor in a wooden house on a solid concrete base can be insulated using two technologies: mounting on logs and arranging a screed. The choice depends on what end result you want to see and how much money you are willing to spend on all this. Most often, the first option is used in such houses; according to it, at the finish you get a covering from a natural floorboard.

Compared to the two previous options, in my opinion, it is much easier to insulate a concrete slab. As a rule, such a base initially has an absolutely flat plane, in addition, the weight of the insulating structure itself does not matter here.

According to the first method, you need to mount a wooden crate on the stove. It will replace us with those same load-bearing logs.

Only at first the concrete must be covered with a layer of waterproofing. In this case, it is quite enough, technical polyethylene. The thickness of the bars under the crate depends on the type of insulation.

For a full-fledged floorboard with a thickness of 40 mm or more, the laying step of the batten guides varies between 50 - 70 cm. In the case when it is planned to sew up the floor with thick plywood or OSB, the step is about 30 - 40 cm.

The battens are attached to the concrete slab with anchors. After that, just like when mounting from above, a heater is laid in the niches, and a finishing coating is sewn on top of it.

Warming a concrete slab under a screed is made even easier. Looking a little ahead, I’ll say that the best insulation here is extruded polystyrene foam, which we better know as Penoplex. I will talk about its capabilities later, but now let's get back to the technology.

So this Penoplex is laid in a continuous layer on a flat concrete slab, attached to it and all the cracks are blown with foam. After that, you can choose: either lay a metal reinforcing mesh on it and fill it with a screed, or equip the flooring from plywood, OSB or drywall and mount a laminate on it using floating technology.

If you are interested in a blank for the "warm floor" system, then for both the electric and water versions, the extruded polystyrene foam base is perfect.

In addition to extruded polystyrene foam, such a floor can be insulated with expanded clay. Of course, you will have to mess around more, but the price of such insulation will be disproportionately less.

The technology here is about the same. Initially, the concrete is covered with a waterproofing film with a call to the walls, just above the finishing coating. Then a layer of expanded clay is filled up and leveled along the horizon.

You can put reinforcement on expanded clay and pour cement-sand mortar, it will be a wet screed. Or lay a double layer of plywood, OSB or drywall, this is already called a dry floating screed.

Choosing a heater

We figured out how to make the insulation itself, now it remains to find out which floor insulation in a wooden house is more suitable in a given situation. To make it easier for you to understand, I conditionally divided all the materials into 2 large areas:

1. Budget, that is, not expensive;
2. And what is now called new technologies, respectively, their cost is an order of magnitude higher.

Traditional budget heaters

• Wood sawdust is deservedly considered the patriarch in this direction. It is not difficult to guess that the price for them is cheap, if you try hard, you can even get it for free. But in order for this material to be used as a heater, it must be well prepared. Otherwise, after a couple of months, the sawdust will simply rot.

First of all, remember that sawdust must be aged in a dry place for at least a year, freshly sawn material is not suitable. And in order for the mice not to arrange a hostel in this heater, you need to add slaked lime there.

Since we are talking about self-cooking, then I will take the liberty of giving you the 2 most popular recipes:

1. For the floor, the bulk option is best suited. Here, 8 parts of dry sawdust will need to be thoroughly mixed with two parts of dry powder of slaked lime, in stores such lime is called fluff. In principle, the material is ready, now it can be poured into the space between the subfloor and the finishing floor.
   Only to achieve the expected effect, in the middle lane of our great motherland, this layer should be at least 150 - 200 mm. And in the northern regions, it can reach up to 300 and even 400 mm;

1. It is much easier to work with plates. But these plates will need to be made first. In the composition of the solution, in addition to sawdust, the same fluff is present, and cement is added as a binder. Standard proportion 8/1/1 (sawdust/lime/cement).
   Naturally, all this is abundantly wetted and mixed well. When the solution is ready, it is poured into molds and lightly compacted. In the warm season, after about a week, the plates will dry and be ready for use. It is possible to lay the raw mix directly into the floor, but in this case you will not be able to sew up the finish coat, because you will have to wait a couple of weeks until the mortar is completely dry.

• The second number we have is expanded clay. This material is widely used in our country. Expanded clay is a granule of foamed and fired clay. The material is porous, lightweight, strong and durable.
  Its only drawback is its hygroscopicity, expanded clay is able to absorb moisture. Hence the conclusion follows, expanded clay needs mandatory installation of waterproofing.
  As for the depth of insulation, it is about the same as that of sawdust. To equip the floor in a wooden house, 2 fractions of expanded clay, gravel and sand should be used. So your mound will be more dense;

• But perhaps the most popular floor insulation in the public sector is polystyrene foam. The material is comfortable in almost every way. In the underground, protected from all sides, the foam will lie indefinitely. Where sawdust or expanded clay needs to be covered with a minimum thickness of 150 mm, it is enough to install foam plastic with a thickness of only 50 mm.
  This insulation is absolutely indifferent to moisture and waterproofing is installed here only to protect the wood itself. To install it, you only need to cut the slab exactly to the size of the niche, insert it and blow out the gaps with mounting foam.
  In a wooden house, rodents are the weak point of the foam embedded in the floor. They really like to arrange their nests in it and it is almost impossible to fight this with folk methods;

• It would not be fair to miss such a common insulation as mineral wool. You can’t call it really cheap, but there are several inexpensive models in the line. In particular, glass wool and soft mineral wool mats are not expensive.

But honestly, I don’t recommend them to you, this material quickly caking, mice love it, and when wet, it completely loses its qualities. No matter how hard you try, soft cotton wool will have to be changed about once every 10 years.

There are also mineral wool basalt slabs, they are more expensive, but their density and quality are much higher. I recommend that if you install cotton wool, then take only slabs with a thickness of about 100m.

Of all the above budget options for insulation, only sawdust and polystyrene are considered combustible. Expanded clay and cotton wool are the standard of fire safety.

New technologies

• Among the newfangled heaters, extruded polystyrene foam is now breaking all records of popularity. It is a modern derivative of foam, both materials are made from styrene granules, the difference is only in technology.
  Extruded polystyrene boards have a closed cell structure. As a result, the material does not pass not only moisture, but even steam. In fact, we are dealing with a good waterproofing. Above, I already mentioned that Penoplex can be laid in a screed, this is due to the fantastic strength of extruded polystyrene foam.
  If this material can be used to insulate airfields, roads and concrete foundations, then there is nothing to say about the strength of a small wooden house. In addition, mice do not particularly favor him either;

• The next number we have is the so-called ecowool. It is approximately 80% cellulose, the remaining 20% ​​are flame retardants and antiseptics. In the production of ecowool is not very expensive, because cellulose is obtained from shredded waste paper.
  I think that the high price here is due more to the fact that the material is new. There are two ways to install such a heater. If you are interested in self-assembly, then the cotton wool is simply poured into the floor cells and fluffed up with a construction mixer.
  But it is better to order machine blowing. In this case, cotton wool is blown onto any surface, including vertical and overhanging surfaces, with the help of a compressor. Ecowool has one advantage over other modern heaters, if you are sure of the quality installation of the subfloor and finish floor, then in old houses you can simply make a hole and blow the entire subfloor through it with ecowool;

• Polyurethane foam pleasure is quite expensive. It is impossible to apply this material on any surface with your own hands; professional equipment and specialists with appropriate qualifications are needed here.
  According to its characteristics, polyurethane foam approaches extruded polystyrene foam, only it will not withstand the screed. The best option here is to foam the floor from below in a wet basement. The fact is that the foam will hermetically close the tree from below, and the warranty period for the operation of such a heater starts from 30 years;

• Penoizol will cost less than polyurethane foam. But for its application also need specialists. Personally, in the case of floor insulation in a wooden house, I don’t see much point in paying for such material. Indeed, in fact, penoizol is the same foam, only in liquid form. Of all the advantages, only quick installation and a sealed continuous coating;

• Finally, I wanted to talk about the so-called isolon. In a nutshell, isolon is polyethylene foam. It can be coated on one or both sides with foil, and also go without a foil coating. But it is difficult to call it an independent floor insulation in a wooden house, most models have a thickness of up to 10 mm.
  With such a thickness, isolon can only be used as an auxiliary coating. In particular, it is used in the arrangement of electric floor heating. Or they are sometimes additionally covered with cotton wool. Foil isolon is a good waterproofing agent, and personally, I often mount it instead of the top insulating layer under the finish coat.

Conclusion

Insulating the floor in a wooden house with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. If you choose the right insulation and prepare well, then the floors in a medium-sized house can be equipped in a maximum of a week. In the photo and video in this article, I have placed additional information on the topic of insulation. If you have any questions, write them in the comments, I will try to help.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

When choosing how to insulate a wooden floor in a private house, they proceed, first of all, from financial possibilities. So, expanded polystyrene is the most economical option, expanded clay is more expensive, but the most environmentally friendly, and mineral wool is easy to install and unattractive to rodents.

Warm basement - a guarantee of a warm floor

Before proceeding with floor insulation, you need to make sure that the basement is thermally and waterproofed. At the same time, one should not forget about ventilation, which will prevent the development of fungi and mold in the underground. After all, this destroys the wooden base and the floor will last very little.

Basement floor insulation

If the house has a basement or basement, you need to take care of their insulation and waterproofing. This will keep the basement from freezing in the winter and keep it cool in the summer. After all, the basement non-residential floor is often used specifically for storing food, and if it is above the freezing level of the soil, such measures are mandatory. But underground, an unheated basement does not need to be insulated.

The basement is insulated from the outside with extruded polystyrene foam, since it is not hygroscopic, unlike ordinary foam. Insulation must be laid on waterproofing, such as bitumen and roofing material. The base is dug out for a meter and EPPS is attached to a special glue.

After that, the soil is poured back in layers.

On the ground part of the basement floor, the insulation is laid on glue, and fixed on top with dowels and reinforcing mesh. The final stage is the lining of the basement. The material can be anything - from decorative stone to PVC panels. But it is better to choose a damage-resistant and water-repellent material.

If the base is low, about 50 cm, it is better to fill up the space under the subfloor. This option will turn out to be much warmer - there is no cold air under the floor of the house, there is no need to arrange ventilation that will have to be closed for the winter.

Backfilling is done with ordinary soil, and the last 10 cm to the floor are filled with sand. Both soil and sand must be rammed separately when wet.

It is economically unprofitable to fill up a higher base. In this case, it will have to be insulated according to the same principle as the basement, but to organize ventilation ducts that remain open in the summer and close in the winter. Special attention should be paid to the insulation of the basement for a house on a columnar or pile foundation.

Freely "walking" cold wind significantly increases the heat loss of the floor.

Common features of wooden floor insulation

When the base is in order, you can proceed directly to the floor. Regardless of the stage of work (during construction or in an already inhabited house), do-it-yourself insulation includes:

1. Laying or checking and replacing the lag.
2. Laying waterproofing on the logs (or under them if the logs lie on the sand).
3. Laying insulation between the lags.
4. Layer of vapor barrier on top of the insulation.
5. The device of a counter-lattice for the gap between the finishing floor and the vapor barrier.
6. Finished flooring.

For waterproofing, you can use any rolled material - from thick polyethylene to innovative, but expensive, materials.

For vapor barrier it is best to use polyethylene foam with aluminum coating on one side.

This will provide both additional floor insulation and prevent condensation from entering the insulation. If the winters are not very cold, sometimes only a layer of polyethylene foam is enough without additional insulation. But it is better to insulate the floor as well as possible, because then you will have to remove the coating again if the insulation is not enough.

The vapor barrier is laid with the “shiny” side to the finished floor. Both hydro and vapor barriers are overlapped with an allowance of at least 10 cm, and the joints are sealed with metallized adhesive tape.

Insulation with roll and tile materials

Even at the lag device stage, you need to decide what material will be used for insulation. Depending on its width and length, a lag step will be selected, between which a heater is laid very tightly and without gaps.

Ideally, the height of the log should correspond to the thickness of the mineral wool layer, but given the need for an air gap between the vapor barrier and the finished wooden floor, you can simply not make a counter-lattice. In this case, the vapor barrier is attached with a construction stapler to the sidewalls of the log so that it lies on the mineral wool without an air gap between them.

It is important to remember that the sides of the plates have different hardness. Such a heater is laid with the hard side up. For convenience, the right side is already marked with a blue stripe, so it's hard to make a mistake.

It is best to use plates with corrugated edges - this will provide the best grip. Lay the plates as tightly as possible, starting from the corner. The next row starts with an offset of half the plate. The last plates should enter with effort. Possible gaps are sealed with construction foam.

Thermal insulation with bulk and sprayed materials

There are more "exotic" ways to insulate the floors in the house. For example, sawdust is increasingly being used as a natural and environmentally friendly material.

The technology is not very different:

• on the plates fixed under the logs, a vapor-permeable material is laid, and not polyethylene;
• sawdust is poured out between the lags and poured from a watering can with a weak lime mortar;
• as soon as the material dries and sits down, a finishing floor is laid - vapor barrier is not needed.

But here you need to pay special attention to hydro and vapor barrier, as well as the dryness of the expanded clay itself. Because of the pores, it is very hygroscopic, but practically does not release moisture. Therefore, with improper installation, expanded clay accumulated moisture will only aggravate the situation.

Warming the floor of the house with sprayed materials - polyurethane foam, ecowool or penoizol, is practically inaccessible for self-implementation, and in some cases it is dangerous. This will require special equipment, and buying it to insulate a small house is extremely unprofitable.

The process of installing a wooden subfloor, its insulation, hydro and vapor barrier is detailed in the video:

The floor is considered the coldest part of the house, especially when it comes to a country wooden structure. There is nothing surprising in this, the usual laws of physics: warm air rushes up, and cold air creeps along the bottom, besides, drafts blow through the legs from the cracks between the cracked floorboards.

A solid foundation, four strong walls and a reliable roof - this is only part of a comfortable suburban housing. In order to minimize heat loss, it is necessary to carry out floor insulation in a wooden house.

The functions of this action are extremely clear: saving from 20% to 30% of heat, a significant decrease in humidity, preventing the appearance of mold, reducing the cost of organizing stove, gas or electric heating. A solid, warm floor will make your life in a wooden house in the bosom of nature as pleasant as possible. You will feel comfortable both in the gloomy off-season and in the winter frosts.

What is the best way to insulate the floor in a wooden house?

Floor insulation in wooden houses is made using different materials with the same characteristics. As the simplest and inexpensive heaters, which are poured in a layer over the floor rough flooring, which serves as an auxiliary base.

These materials have sufficient hygroscopicity, they protect the wood from decay, the appearance of fungus and microorganisms, and also provide air movement. However, this method of thermal insulation has a significant drawback: loose non-metallic heaters lose their hygroscopicity over time.

Introductory video guide

A country house made of logs or timber is an environmentally friendly dwelling, therefore environmental requirements are also imposed on materials for its insulation. This will help preserve the unique natural aura! Previously, sawdust, granular sawdust insulation, sawdust concrete, wood concrete, and foam plastic were widely used for floor insulation. But today, there are more convenient and effective materials on sale that are also environmentally friendly.

Currently, manufacturers produce a wide range of heat insulators. They offer to insulate the floors in a wooden house with mineral wool made on the basis of basalt, stone chips or slags, ecowool made from cellulose, fiberglass, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, penofol, isolon and other modern materials. Usually they are also used for thermal insulation of walls, attic and roofing. Each insulation has its own characteristics, therefore, when choosing a material, you need to consider its pros and cons.

At the same time, there are general requirements for all heat insulating materials. They should be light (not weighing down the structure of a wooden structure), durable, safe, easy to install and, of course, have low thermal conductivity.

Insulation is selected taking into account the parameters of the building, while avoiding heat leakage is possible only with proper organization of thermal insulation.

Fiberglass and mineral wool- these are materials whose distinctive characteristics are density, low thermal conductivity, good sound absorption, durability, availability, environmental friendliness, incombustibility, chemical resistance, water resistance and a high level of thermal insulation, therefore they are most often used for floor insulation in a wooden house.

Sometimes unscrupulous manufacturers use harmful phenol-formaldehyde resins to connect the fibers in these materials. Glass wool that does not comply with environmental requirements has a yellowish tint, and mineral wool has a brownish tint.

Expanded polystyrene and foam- modern materials that are sprayed onto the surface of the auxiliary floor and fill the space between the lags. They are distinguished by such qualities as profitability, low thermal conductivity, minimum water absorption, shape and volume stability, environmental friendliness, biostability, efficiency and durability.

Due to their low cost and ease of use, expanded polystyrene and foam plastic are used in wooden houses for floor insulation and other structures. High-quality polystyrene foam must be absolutely dry, without the presence of volatile compounds, which, when the temperature rises, can be released and cause harm to health.

Acrylic and latex binders used in the production of these materials are safe for the human body. This is confirmed by quality certificates.

The main manufacturers of materials for thermal insulation of buildings today are the following companies: Izovol, Izorok, Izorus, Knauf, Rockwool, Ursa and others.

Stage 1- flooring of the subfloor along the logs. This simple and versatile design is most often used in renovations and new construction. Its main advantage is that the insulation is not affected by mechanical loads, so any heat insulator material can be used.

Such a floor is made of wooden boards or unhewn boards approximately 25x150 mm in size. You can also use boards that are left over from the foundation formwork for these purposes, provided they are in good condition. In any case, the tree is recommended to be pre-treated with an antiseptic composition.

First, wooden logs are laid, not bringing them to the walls for about 2-3 cm. They are either installed by the method of a T-shaped cut into a log house, or laid on a foundation, brick posts or a wooden lining at a distance of 0.6-1.0 m from each other. A cranial bar with a section of no more than 50x50 mm is attached to the lags with the help of screws, then shields or draft boards are nailed to it from below, making sure that there are no large gaps between them.

Stage 2- installation of insulation. Sheet, slab or roll heat-insulating material (polystyrene, glass, eco-, mineral wool, etc.) is tightly laid on a wooden base between the logs, and the remaining gaps are filled with mounting foam. Sometimes such a heater is laid under the subfloor.

Sprayed insulation is fixed using special equipment. These materials have good adhesion, follow the contours of the surface and do not form joints.

Stage 3- Laying vapor barrier (waterproofing) material. Waterproofing of the subfloor is necessarily carried out when warming the wet rooms of a wooden house, as well as in the case of using hygroscopic heat insulators. In particular, it is necessary when using fiberglass, ecowool or mineral wool as a heater. At the same time, it can be dispensed with in the case of the use of sprayed heaters.

Waterproofing is divided into impregnating, painting and pasting. Pasting materials include polyethylene films, PVC membranes, glassine, roofing felt, isoplast, etc. Film waterproofers perfectly protect the fibrous insulation from the penetration of condensate and soaking with moisture.

Sheets of vapor barrier film are laid on top of the thermal insulation layer with an overlap of about 15 cm, and the edges are folded over by about 10 cm and attached to the logs. Joints and gaps formed are glued with metallized adhesive tape. Sometimes two layers of moisture-resistant film are laid: waterproofing - on the subfloor, vapor barrier - on the insulation.

Stage 4- Laying the final floor and its finishing. The finished floor is laid on top of the vapor barrier layer at a distance of 3-4 cm from the auxiliary base (subfloor). For its device, specially processed boards 9.8-14.5 cm wide and 3.0-4.4 cm thick are used, having longitudinal grooves on the underside to ensure natural ventilation.

Video guide to floor insulation in a wooden house

It is not recommended to use non-edged boards for laying the finishing floor, because before laying they will need to be prepared: chop off the wane with an ax, plan the front side. This is a rather laborious process that takes time and effort. Sometimes wood fiber boards (MDF) and a soundproof coating are placed on top of the boards.

To enlarge, click on the picture

Paint and varnish or slabs, linoleum, carpet are used as finishing materials for a finished insulated floor in a wooden house. They are laid according to generally accepted rules governing the installation of these materials, and then skirting boards, or profiled rails, are mounted along the joints with the walls. In straight sections they are connected at an angle of 90 degrees, and in the corners - at an angle of 45 degrees.

Profiled rails are pressed tightly against the floor and walls and fastened with 75 mm nails, keeping a distance of 60-70 cm between them. Also, the nails must be driven into the junctions of the skirting boards.

Thermal insulation of a wooden floor in a house is necessary, because a private house bears the main heat losses through the floor and roof. Although wood has excellent insulating qualities, it alone is not enough to maintain a comfortable temperature. Without thermal insulation in the composition of the floor, the structure will not be able to retain heat. Warming a wooden floor in a private house is somewhat similar to similar work in an apartment. Before you insulate a wooden floor, you must select the materials and method of installation. The choice depends on various factors: whether the house stands on posts directly on the ground, or on the foundation, whether there is a basement, how many floors are in the house.

materials

The choice of materials for floor insulation in a house or apartment is very rich. New heaters appear regularly, and the insulating qualities are improving. The choice depends on the preferences of the owner, his capabilities, as well as the functionality of the room itself. Below we will consider the most popular and proven floor heaters in a wooden house based on consumer reviews.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is one of the most popular materials for thermal insulation. Vata happens:

• stone;
• slag;
• glass.

The main advantage of mineral wool, in addition to excellent thermal insulation properties, is incombustibility. In addition, wool has a high level of sound insulation.

The disadvantages of such a heater are low strength and good absorption of moisture. Cotton wool absorbs liquid and at times loses its insulating properties. Therefore, when using it, great attention should be paid to the vapor barrier from below and above the insulation. In addition, working with mineral wool requires safety precautions, since it and its dust can be harmful to health.

Also here can be attributed isovol - a heater, which is made of mineral fibers. It has the same insulating properties as mineral wool, but it tolerates moisture much better.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam is also known as Styrofoam. It occupies a leading position as a material for insulation, both in private houses and in apartments. The explanation for this is a bouquet of thermal insulation qualities, affordable prices, strength and durability. Such properties are achieved due to the cellular structure.

The weak point of expanded polystyrene is contact with water. Due to its structure, it absorbs water and deforms with temperature changes. There is extruded polystyrene foam, which has the advantages of conventional foam, but better tolerates moisture. In any case, the insulation of a wooden floor with foam plastic requires high-quality vapor and waterproofing.

Penofol

Penofol is one of the most modern heaters. This is a roll material, which consists of a layer of insulation, such as polyethylene foam and a layer of thin aluminum foil. There are various types of penofol on the market, from a variety of materials and a different number of layers. Penofol has excellent insulating properties, has a low specific gravity and is resistant to mechanical damage. Plus, it excludes the device for vapor and waterproofing, since this role is played by foil. Penofol is often used to insulate floors in a country house and in a private house, in apartments it is used when installing a floor heating system.

Ecowool

Ecowool has high thermal insulation characteristics, does not burn, retains its properties after contact with moisture and, in addition, complements the environmental cleanliness of the wooden floor in the country, as it consists of natural materials. The only downside is its price. It can be laid on top of the old coating, outside and inside the building. It can be used as a bulk material or applied by spraying with a special installation, where ecowool is mixed under pressure with water and carbon dioxide, forming a sticky mixture.

Bulk materials

Insulation of a wooden floor with expanded clay, wood concrete, shavings, sawdust - methods that have been known for a long time and have positive reviews. The peculiarity of such heaters is their light specific gravity. They can be used both for the first floor and for the second. Among the shortcomings can be noted the complexity of the work.

Floor insulation methods

Floor insulation methods differ in the complexity of installation and the degree of insulation, and are selected based on means, preferences, and what is below the house. Different heat losses will be in houses with a base of a full-fledged foundation and brick columns on the ground. Also an important role in the choice is played by the number of floors, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house and the climatic zone.

Thermal insulation of the second floor in a private house is required if one of the floors is not heated or, as often happens, the first floor is built of warmer material than the second. Then the temperature difference from below and above will be very large and insulation is necessary. If the design allows you to maintain the same climate throughout the house, then there is no need for thermal insulation of the floor.

Double floor device

Insulation of floors in this case is correct to start from the bottom up. Therefore, first of all, logs and a subfloor are installed, then work is carried out to insulate it. The first layer is vapor barrier. A simple polyethylene can act as a vapor barrier material. A heater is laid on top of the vapor barrier, the denser the better. Then another layer of vapor barrier and insulation of the subfloor is completed. This method is suitable for houses with any foundation, regardless of the presence of a basement. Also, such work can be carried out in the apartment, especially on the first floor, if the height of the ceilings allows. Further in the video, see recommendations on how to properly arrange a double floor in an apartment

Thermal insulation above the high subfloor

The method is similar to the previous one, with the difference that the work is carried out not indoors, but outside. This method is possible if there is a basement or any space below the house that allows you to get to the load-bearing beams. The correct order of operation is as follows:

• Laying a layer of waterproofing;
• Installation of insulation;
• A second layer of vapor barrier to protect the insulation from moisture;
• Additional layer of waterproofing;
• Sheathing with plywood, fiberboard or OSB sheets.

As a heater, any materials, except bulk ones, can be used. The advantage of this method is that the floors in the room will not rise. The disadvantage is the inconvenience of mounting from the outside and from the bottom up. It is also worth taking care that rodents do not make their homes in the layers of the floor.

An example of such a method of insulation from the outside can be seen in the video

This method is perfect for ground floor apartments suffering from cold floors.

Foam insulation

A similar method is most suitable for the second floor. First, all cracks in the rough coating are eliminated, then logs are arranged, in increments of about 0.7 m. A vapor barrier layer is laid on top, fixed with brackets. It is correct that the vapor barrier layers overlap and are fixed with adhesive tape. Then all the free space is covered with foam. It is recommended to seal the joints with mounting foam. Further, everything is covered with a layer of waterproofing, and, finally, floorboards. Also, if the ceiling height allows, it is possible to insulate in this way directly on top of the old floor, without dismantling.

When insulating floors in this way, not only polystyrene, but also any other heaters can be used. An example of such technology on video

Spray insulation

A fast and affordable method of thermal insulation. Its advantage is unpretentiousness to the application surface. On the subfloor, instead of, on, or under the old insulation, polystyrene foam is applied using a special device. It penetrates into the smallest holes, and has the highest insulating properties. Perfect for warming a wooden floor in a private house and in an apartment.

Warm floor

Universal method of warming. Suitable for the floor in the country house and apartment, installed on top of almost any surface. Its essence lies in the fact that thermal communications are laid under the finishing layer. It can be electric, water, or infrared underfloor heating. By the names you can understand how the heating occurs. The advantage of this floor is its unpretentiousness and versatility. Any finishing floor can be laid on top of it, from linoleum to tiles.

Cardinal measures for warming

If none of the methods came up, or did not give the desired result, the most decisive method remains - warming the basement. This is a difficult and long process, but, judging by the reviews, it has a clear positive effect. All work will be done outside. To begin with, on the ground around the house, right next to the foundation, you need to dig a moat, about 50 cm wide and about 0.5 m deep. At the bottom, a expanded clay concrete screed is made. Then, outside, around the perimeter of the house, the insulation is fastened with glue. The joints of the heat-insulating sheets are sealed with mounting foam. Then, along the perimeter, on top of the insulation, we install the formwork, and fill the entire space with expanded clay concrete. Thus, the house becomes insulated from the ground, and the floors from the cold. Obviously, this method is only suitable for private houses and summer cottages.

Alternative ways

There are several more interesting ways to insulate a wooden floor. For example, the use of insulated linoleum as a finishing coating. Such linoleum differs from the usual one by the presence of a felt or jute substrate. But it is better not to rely on it as an independent heater. Insulated linoleum - an addition to the already insulated floor. The advantage of linoleum in availability, durability and ease of installation. It can be laid directly on top of the old flooring. In addition, linoleum is waterproofing.