Flooding of a site with groundwater and meltwater can be a real disaster for its owner. Precipitation can also contribute to the violation of the soil structure. It is especially bad for the owners of land consisting mainly of clay or loam, since clay greatly retains water, hardly passing it through itself. In these cases, the only salvation may be a properly constructed drainage. For such soil, it has its own characteristics. Therefore, we will consider how to make drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soils.
Plants suffer from an excess of moisture in the first place. Their roots do not receive the amount of oxygen necessary for development. The result is deplorable - the plants wither at first, and then completely disappear. Moreover, this applies to cultivated plants and lawn grasses. Even in cases where clay is covered from above with a layer of fertile soil, water will be difficult to drain.
The comfort of work on the site is also important, because in the absence of a drain, even a little rain can turn clay soil into a swamp. It will be impossible to work on such land for several days.
When the water does not leave for a long time, there is a risk of flooding the foundation and freezing it when cold weather sets in. Even very good waterproofing is sometimes not able to protect the foundation from destruction, since it itself can be destroyed by frozen moisture.
We conclude: drainage of the site from groundwater is simply necessary. And if it has not been done yet, then you should not postpone its construction.
Preparation for the construction of the drainage system
Before choosing the type of drainage system, you should analyze your site.
Attention is drawn to the following points:
- Soil structure. In our case, clay is considered, which is not able to quickly pass water;
- Source of high moisture. This may be frequent precipitation or groundwater lying close to the surface;
- The type of drainage is selected or several types are combined;
- A plan is drawn up for the location of drainage trenches, revision and catchment wells. The plan indicates the depth of the drains, the dimensions of all elements of the system, their slope relative to the soil surface. The plan will allow you to quickly find the location of all elements of the system.
After such preparation, they begin to build the drainage of the site with their own hands on clay soils. Let's consider what kind of drainage happens, and which one is better suited for a clay area.
Types of drainage systems
Drainage in a clayey area can be surface, deep or reservoir. Sometimes it is advisable to combine several of these types to achieve the greatest drainage efficiency.
Surface drainage
If the site has even a slight natural slope, this creates additional advantages for surface drainage. Water flows by itself through the channels laid on the site to the designated place. Such channels are located on the surface of the soil, slightly deepening them into the ground. Surface drainage of a site on clay soils can be laid on almost any level ground: along paths, around a building, along the perimeter of lawns, near recreation areas and in other places.
Reservoir drainage
This type of drainage is created even before the construction of the foundation begins. The soil deepens below its location by at least 20 cm. The soil layer is also removed wider than the place where the foundation passes. Crushed stone is poured at the bottom of the pit with a layer of 20 cm, and drainage pipes are located around the perimeter. All moisture penetrating under the foundation is collected in pipes, from where it is discharged through separately laid pipelines to the drainage wells.
Tip: The depth of the reservoir drainage should exceed the depth of the clay soil. In this case, drainage will be most effective.
This type of drainage is quite laborious, therefore it is used less often, although it is useful for clay soils.
Maintenance of the drainage system consists only in cleaning it and pumping water from the collector well. If everything is done correctly, then no clay on the site can overshadow your mood and destroy the plants you grow.
If the soils around the house consist of loams and clays, then in spring and after rains the territory of the estate turns into a small swamp. It is necessary to drain it somehow and quickly, otherwise the plants will rot, and the foundation will begin to fall apart. We will figure out how to drain a site on clay soil in order to quickly remove excess water from it.
Excess moisture in the soil leads to oxygen starvation of plants. The roots do not receive the required amount of oxygen, which inevitably leads to the death of greenery. This problem affects trees, shrubs and lawn grass. Without effective drainage, not a single plant will survive in a clay area, water will destroy everything.
Herringbone drainage system - the best option for a small area
Land with excess moisture is an ideal incubator for all kinds of slugs and snails. And which gardener needs these pests that feed on garden plantings? Plus, waterlogged soil is a direct threat to the foundation of the house. No waterproofing layer will save the base of the building with constant exposure to water.
Clay itself does not allow moisture to pass through, and if the site is also in a lowland, then the drainage system will have to be done without fail. Otherwise, not only the future harvest, but also the owner of the house runs the risk of drowning in the mud.
How to determine clay soil or not
It is possible to accurately assess the characteristics of the soil only after appropriate surveys, which should be carried out by a professional hydrogeologist. A variant is possible when the clay does not protrude to the surface, but lies in a continuous layer at a shallow depth. The soil seems to be good from above, but literally after half a meter a clay layer begins, which does not want to drain moisture further inland.
Approximately it is possible to determine only the degree of permeability of the earth. To do this, it is enough to dig a hole half a meter deep and pour water into it. If after a couple of days the recess turns out to be dry, then the site can do without additional drainage. Otherwise, it will definitely have to do drainage.
Do-it-yourself drainage of a clay area
There are two main ways to make drainage in a clay area:
- With the help of a surface drainage system from trays.
- Through deep drainage with the installation of perforated drain pipes.
The first option will allow you to divert only melt and rainwater. Only a deep system can handle the moisture that is already in the soil.
Drainage scheme for a site with clay soil
Wells, trays and pipes can be made of concrete, asbestos cement or iron. But the most practical material is plastic. From cross-linked polyethylene, it is now possible to purchase the entire set of various elements of the storm sewer system, all that remains is to assemble them together.
Advice! Pipes, storm water inlets, wells and storm gutters are best bought from cross-linked polyethylene. It calmly tolerates frosts and does not crack during frosts.
The choice of type of drainage depends on:
- the owner's financial capabilities;
- area and topography of the land plot;
- estimated precipitation volumes;
- soil structures at different depths.
In any case, you first need to prepare a project plan for the drainage system with reference to the area and purchase all the necessary building materials.
What will be needed to build a drainage system
To make the drainage of a site with clay soil from the tools you will need:
- Shovels for digging pits for wells and trenches for drains.
- Garden cart.
- Hacksaw or jigsaw for cutting pipes.
- Twine-cord for marking.
- Construction bubble level
And also stock up in advance:
- fine gravel with sand;
- pipes with a diameter of 110 mm with perforation (you can take ordinary sewer pipes and drill holes in them);
- geotextile material for wrapping perforated pipelines;
- pipe fittings;
- gutters, sand traps and storm water inlets (plastic or concrete);
- well structures of factory assembly.
Surface drainage installation
Open drainage on clay soil is easiest to do. If the groundwater is deep enough, then it will be enough to drain the local area. In terms of labor costs and finances, this option is optimal.
Scheme of surface stormwater drainage from individual elements
The system of collecting and draining water trays for surface drainage is laid with a slope from the house to the lowest point of the site where the septic tank or infiltrator is equipped. From the septic tank, the clarified liquid is discharged into a roadside ditch, a nearby reservoir or a street storm sewer.
The main thing when planning a drainage system is to use the relief of the site with maximum benefit. If it has a slope, then this is just an ideal case. It will be enough to dig ditches along this slope and lay the trays in them at an angle to the lowest point.
Open drainage can be made in the form of landscaped gutters made of stone
Installation of surface drainage on a clay site is carried out in five stages:
- Digging trenches according to the designed scheme up to half a meter deep.
- Backfilling at the bottom of the ditches of a sand and gravel cushion with a thickness of 15–20 cm.
- Laying trays at a slope of 2-5 degrees to the water intake.
- Covering rain gutters from leaves and debris with metal bars.
- Installation of an infiltrator with drainage into the soil below a layer of clay or a storage tank with a pump.
After completing all the work, it remains only to check the operability of the storm drain by letting water from the hose into it.
Deep drainage device
The buried drainage system is formed from the main pipeline and perforated pipes connected to it. The main can be made one - in the middle of the site, then the drains are connected to it with a herringbone. Or it is laid along the fence along the border of the estate, and all drainage pipes are connected to this perimeter.
For laying pipelines, trenches 35–40 cm wide and up to one and a half meters deep are needed (depending on the level of groundwater and the freezing point of the soil). At their bottom, a 15-centimeter pillow of sand with crushed stone is made and geotextiles are spread to protect the perforation from clogging.
Then another 10–20 cm of gravel is poured onto the geotextile substrate and drains are laid on it, which are then sprinkled with gravel and covered with geofabric on top. As a result, the perforated drainage pipe should be on all sides in gravel and wrapped around with geotextile.
Distance and depth of drains in various soils
Important! Perforated pipes without geotextile wrapping on clay lands will quickly clog. Needle-punching geofabric is an obligatory element of deep drainage in a clay area.
When arranging drainage in areas with clay buds, for wrapping pipes, in addition to the usual non-woven fabric, you can use bulk shells made of coconut fiber. Drains with them are sold already ready for installation.
Scheme of laying drainage perforated pipes
Revision and storage wells can be made from:
- bricks;
- reinforced concrete;
- plastic.
If the pipes for the drainage system are plastic, then it is also better to use all wells and a septic tank from a similar material. It is easier to take care of them later and make repairs if necessary.
Video: drainage work in a difficult area
The combination of a deep and surface drainage system is guaranteed to drain even a wetland. Such drainage of clay soils has been proven over the years of practice. Its installation is simple, and as part of the maintenance, seasonal inspections and flushes are sufficient. But the design of the drainage system is best left to an experienced specialist. There are many nuances and without specialized knowledge it is difficult to correctly calculate the depth, slope, diameter of pipes.
Ground and melt water can cause serious trouble. This is especially true for loamy and clayey soil areas, since this type of soil prevents the passage of water, which leads to decay of plant roots. In this case, you can do the drainage of the site on clay soils with your own hands.
Since clay and loam do not pass water well, it accumulates in the soil, because of this, the roots of plants begin to rot. At the same time, covering with a fertile layer of soil does not correct the situation.
If a drain or drainage system is not equipped on peat soil or clay, then a little rain is enough for the plot of a country house or cottage to turn into a swamp. It is impossible to work on such land for a long time, in addition to this, there is a high probability that the foundation will flood or freeze when the cold sets in.
Do not place high hopes on waterproofing, as frozen water can destroy its integrity.
As mentioned above, in this case there is only one way out - the creation of a drainage system.
Preparatory stage
Before proceeding with the choice of the type of drainage system, it is necessary to subject the site to a thorough analysis, namely:
- determine the structure of the soil;
- find out what is causing the high humidity.
According to the results of the analysis, the type of drainage system is selected. Next, you need to draw up a plan that indicates where and at what depth the various elements of the drainage type system will be located. After that, construction can begin.
Types of drainage systems
For soil in which clay predominates, reservoir, surface or deep drainage options can be used. In some cases, it makes sense to use several types together in order to increase the efficiency of drainage. Let's consider each type in detail.
Surface type drainage systems
This type is ideal in cases where the site is located on a natural slope. For drainage, channels slightly deepened in the ground are created, through which water flows independently into the drainage well. They can be laid on any flat surface, for example, along the perimeter of a building, near a sidewalk or around a lawn.
Gutters are laid in the channel, from above they can be covered with a protective grate.
Deep drainage systems
If it is necessary to divert a large amount of water on clay soil, it is recommended to give preference to deep drainage systems. They are systems of underground pipelines that serve to divert water to places of accumulation.
Deep systems may include from one to several main drainage channels directed to a common catchment area. Their depth of occurrence varies from 1 to 1.5 m, while the width does not exceed 50 cm. Drainage pipes are installed in the channels. Auxiliary lines are connected to the main line, collecting water from the soil surface.
How the trench of deep drainage systems is arranged is shown in the figure.
The figure indicates:
- A - a layer of fertile soil (thickness 20cm);
- B - backfill soil (20cm);
- C - this layer is covered with crushed stone (30cm);
- D - pipe with a diameter of 110mm;
- E - geotextile coating;
- F - "pillow" of sand;
- G - soil.
Formation drainage systems
This type of drainage, as well as the previous type, belongs to the deep ones. It is used when it becomes necessary to drain groundwater from the structure (foundation). It is installed directly under the building. The drainage system is a layer of rubble, from which water is diverted into pipes laid around the building.
It should be noted that the size of this system must exceed the area of the building under which it is located.
List of tools and materials
To independently create a drainage system on clay-type soil, you will need to prepare the following tools:
- shovels (they are used for laying ditches);
- level (to check the slope);
- stretcher or wheelbarrow (with their help, soil is carried out);
- hacksaw for cutting pipes;
- marking cord.
From materials for surface systems you will need:
- geotextile, it serves as a filter for water that will enter the drainage system;
- to create a sprinkle and a pillow, you need sand and gravel;
- gutters made of concrete or plastic, as well as sand traps and storm water inlets;
- cement.
If you plan to make a deep system, you will additionally need special (perforated) plastic pipes with a diameter of 100 to 110 mm, as well as elements for connecting them.
Video: How to make soil drainage in a country house in the garden
If you do not want to make a storage well with your own hands, into which water will flow from the drainage in an area where there is clay soil, the tank can be purchased ready-made (the price for it is quite affordable).
Self-creation of a surface system
The sequence of actions is as follows:
- trenches are dug, according to the plan of the drainage system. In this case, a slope should be observed towards the place of disposal of drainage water. This action is greatly simplified if the site has a natural slope. It is enough to dig a trench 80 cm deep and 40 cm wide;
- at the bottom of the trenches, a “pillow” of sand is made, which is covered with a layer of gravel, if desired, turf can be placed on top, after which the system can be operated.
If it is planned to install a gutter in the trenches, then they can be made less deep. In this case, the crushed stone is poured with cement mortar, on which gutters and other elements (storm water inlets, sand traps, etc.) are installed. From above, the gutter is closed with a special protective grate, which can play the role of decor.
Photo: installing a gutter in a trench Self-creation of a deep system
The arrangement of this type of drainage system will take more time. Its creation begins with the installation of a collector well, after which they begin to lay the main and auxiliary highways.
The depth of the trenches should be 1.2 m for the main drainage system and about a meter for auxiliary (additional) channels. The width is sufficient 50cm, both for the first and second.
It is important that the main channels reach the drainage well. Auxiliary trenches should have a slope of about five centimeters per meter. The bottom of the trench is covered with sand to create a pillow. On top of it, as well as along the edges of the trench, geotextiles are laid, after which the channel is covered with a 20-centimeter layer of crushed stone.
At the next stage, perforated plastic pipes are laid. Do not forget to check the level of the slope.
Where the pipes are turned, as well as at intervals of 25 meters, revision wells are installed.
At the last stage, the pipes are covered with gravel, wrapped in geotextiles, after which the ditch is leveled to the same level as the soil.
Photo: the central highway of the deep drainage system As you can see, it is quite possible to do the drainage of a site on clay soils with your own hands, even if it takes some time, but in any case, the cost will be lower than attracting builders for this purpose.
Storm and melt water during the off-season can bring many problems for owners of sites with clay soil. Fruit bushes and trees, greenhouse plantations on such soil are characterized by slow growth and poor yields. Houses in the spring thaw collapse from excessive moisture. The drainage system, consisting of drains and trenches, effectively solves the problem of wastewater disposal. At the preparatory stage, the locations of drainage ditches are determined, taking into account the natural angle of inclination of the landscape. This allows excess water to be transported to a well or reservoir located in the immediate vicinity.
Soil composition and type
After acquiring a land plot, laboratory tests should be ordered to determine the type of soil. Chernozem or sandy soil simplifies the process of building a house, planting fruit and berry crops, growing a garden, and installing greenhouses. The clay area is more complex and laborious in terms of arranging household and residential facilities, harvesting vegetables and fruits.
The main disadvantage of clay soil is the retention of water on the surface after rain or snow melt. Lawn grass as a result of prolonged rains due to excess water will grow weakly, dry, and the root system will rot. Another problem for the owners of such plots is the high level of groundwater. Constantly wet clay will prevent the ripening of the crop in the beds, and will also cause a violation of the waterproofing layer of the foundation of the house. In winter, wet soil can freeze deeply, which leads to the death of garden fruit and berry plantations, deformation and shedding of the foundation.
Installation of drainage in a clay area
An excellent option for draining water from clay areas is the Softrock drainage. The device of the system can be done with your own hands or you can order turnkey work. During the year, the land will dry out completely, and the owners of country or private property will reap large harvests of berries, vegetables, and fruits. When installing a drainage system, the main points should be considered:
- the amount of moisture: the frequency and intensity of precipitation, the presence of groundwater and meltwater;
- the size of the land plot;
- available financial investment.
Among the inexpensive systems is surface drainage, more costly in financial and time terms is considered buried drainage. Combining the two options will allow you to dry clay areas as quickly and efficiently as possible.
Surface water is drained through open ditches of shallow depth. In-depth drainage consists of deep trenches with perforated plastic pipes laid in them, wrapped with geotextile. The design resembles a layer cake: sand is poured into the trench, a pipe is poured on top, then a geotextile, everything is covered with a layer of rubble and sand. At the final stage, the soil previously taken out of the pit is laid out on top of the structure. The bottom of the drainage trench on clay soil should be carefully loosened immediately before starting work. This manipulation is aimed at increasing the quality of drainage, since the rate of clay compaction slows down significantly.
Execution of works
Installation of a drainage system begins with drawing up a drainage scheme for a site on clay soils. After completing the markup, they begin to dig granny. Their depth should not be below the zero mark of the foundation, while taking into account the freezing point of the soil, which is individual for each region. On a plot with a flat landscape, a slope of lateral and central ditches is constructed.
A sand cushion is laid at the bottom of the ditch, rammed, covered with expanded clay or small gravel from above. The next step is pipe laying. The best option is Softrock drainage, which combines pipes, geotextiles, crushed stone. From above, the entire structure is covered with soil in the form of a mound; after shrinkage, the surface will become completely flat. In the absence in the vicinity of the site of the reservoir, the installation of reinforced concrete or plastic wells is carried out. The water collected in them is available for use in household needs, watering crops.
Attention to detail
When deciding how to make drainage in a clay area, you should carefully consider the main points. The role of an additional filter is performed by geofabric, which prevents large particles from entering the drainage system directly. For clay soils, you can refuse to use it.
Do not allow the absence of an angle of inclination on the drainage line. This omission will lead to silting and collecting water in one place. The optimal slope is 1-7 centimeters per 1.0 meter of drainage pipes.
An important point is the thickness of the backfill layer with sand, soil, fine gravel. This indicator should be from 15 centimeters or more. The optimal depth of trenches for placing the main pipeline varies between 0.4 - 1.2 meters. Deviation up or down makes the work of the entire structure ineffective.
If you are faced with the problem of high levels of humidity on the land, then it is possible that you need to drain it, which you can handle on your own.
This should not be neglected, because such a phenomenon can lead to unpleasant consequences.
Such circumstances develop if the site is located in a lowland or at a high level of groundwater adjacency.
What is drainage and what are its functions
There is a certain system that combines trenches and pipes, which are located around the perimeter of a certain area of the land. It's called drainage. Draining the soil by installing system elements will solve many problems associated with water drainage. For example:
- your plants will not sink in the mud, and the harvest will be much better;
- paths and paths will finally cease to be associated with swamps.
In a word, you will have the opportunity to enjoy your stay outside the city.
Remember, the correct drainage device is the key to the safety of the foundation of summer cottages, which is ensured by the safety of building materials. In what cases is such a system really needed? When the soil is washed out, it swells or swamps, and cellars and cellars are flooded from time to time.
Types of drainage systems and their features
In order to properly organize the removal of excess moisture from the land, you need to clearly understand what is the difference between its types, and what features each of them has.
So, drainage can be surface type or deep. You can deal with the first option on your own, because the work is relatively not difficult. As for the deep type of construction, you need to think about it at the stage of building a house.
Site surface drainage can be one of two types:
- linear - special trays are laid directly on the surface, which are slightly inclined to the water intake or the main storm sewer well. For security purposes, they are closed with decorative gratings. Sand traps are often installed in garden plots, which makes them even more efficient. Thus, stones, debris and sand do not enter the wastewater, respectively, the system is not so heavily clogged. The main condition for the full removal of excess water from the soil is the deep occurrence of groundwater;
- point - the function of drainage in this case is performed by a system of water collectors or storm water inlets. Pipes are laid underground, through which water flows into the general drainage, and then into the water intake. Such devices are installed under drainpipes on the street or, if it is a land plot, then at its lowest level.
Deep drainage regulates the water balance through perforated pipes. They are laid directly under the ground and absorb excess moisture.
Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils
I would like to repeat that the surface water drainage system allows you to get rid of its excess, which flows down from the roofs, accumulates near the paths and terraces. Before you do the drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soils , you need to decide on its type (point or linear). The difference is that in the first case, water is diverted from specific areas of a small area, and the second is appropriate if it is necessary to prevent the fertile soil layer from being washed away.
So, the arrangement of surface-type drainage begins with drawing up a diagram of what happens taking into account the places where water stagnates. The system consists of a main trench and auxiliary ditches where liquid from puddles will be discharged. Drains from downpipes are directed to the main trenches. By the way, the pit must be dug under a certain slope, which will ensure the gravity direction of the water towards the water intake. Do-it-yourself drainage of a site on clay soils implies providing a slope of 0.002.
After excavating trenches 0.5 m wide and approximately 0.7 m deep, the walls should be formed at an angle of 30 degrees. The water inlet must be located below the level of the entire system. Thus, it will be possible to ensure the interception and removal of excess moisture, and this will also reduce the level of groundwater. Considering that do-it-yourself drainage on the site in this way is not entirely aesthetically pleasing, special trays are now provided that are laid in trenches, after which they are covered with a lattice-type lid.
What should happen
Installation of a deep site drainage system
Depth of pipes in the ground
For the arrangement, it is necessary to use perforated pipes and roll materials. According to the standard scheme, water must first enter the collecting drains, and then into the main drains. And then into the well, and only after that it is dumped into the water intake. Their role can be played by ditches along roads, rivers, streams, ravines or storm sewer systems. Be sure to equip inspection holes.
So that the installation of the water drainage system is not done in vain, it is necessary to correctly calculate the depth of the pipes, which is very difficult to do without the help of surveyors or hydrogeologists. These specialists will make all the necessary measurements to determine where the groundwater is located.
Drainage scheme for a site with a deep system
In order for the drainage of the site with your own hands to perform all its functions, it is important to use pipes specially designed for this. Their peculiarity lies in the fact that on the surface there is a network of holes 1.5-5 mm in diameter. If earlier pipes made of ceramics or a mixture of asbestos and cement were used for these purposes, now there are polymer pipes designed specifically for hydromelioration, their diameter ranges from 50-200 mm. Some models are even equipped with a filter shell.
Interested in how to properly drain the site? It all starts with digging trenches 40 cm wide, the depth depends on where the groundwater flows.
Then a layer of sand and crushed stone is poured into the finished channels, which acts as a pillow, on top of which the necessary pipes are laid, they must also be covered with a mixture of crushed stone and sand.
The trench should be filled with half of its height, the free space is filled with loam, the final stage of installation is the embankment of the upper, fertile layer of the earth.
In the deep system, as well as in the surface, wells must be constructed. They are designed to control the drainage process and clean clogged hollow objects of round cross section. For this, reinforced concrete rings or piece waterproof products can be used, to some extent it depends on the installation depth of the system.
Mistakes that should not be made when installing a cleaning system at their summer cottage
The most common mistake that is made when trying to design the drainage of a site with your own hands is neglecting the design stage. The fact is that, first of all, it is necessary to understand the current situation in detail, namely: to analyze the land plot and determine the nature of groundwater. Without taking into account some details, you can come to the conclusion that they will enter the basement of your house, negatively affecting the foundation.
