In a modern bathroom, there are necessarily lamps, sockets, fans, a washing machine, less often boilers and other household appliances. About 20-30 years ago, the electrical wiring in the bathroom was not as loaded as it is now. However, in addition to the load, the power grid is also in conditions of high humidity. All this requires special care and compliance with all norms and rules during installation with your own hands.
A wet floor or wall conducts current, since any moisture is an excellent conductor. In order to avoid various incidents and injuries in the future, the following rules must be observed:
- Lay electrical wires only under the finishing elements.
- The wiring must be in a corrugated sleeve.
- Junction boxes, connectors, twists, terminal blocks are prohibited inside the bathroom. Use only solid pieces of cable coming from the outer box.
- It is forbidden to place sockets and mechanisms for adjusting lighting closer than 70 cm to the bathroom, sink, water pipes, shower room and closer than 90 cm to the floor.
- Sockets are bred separately from fans and lighting.
- Pay attention to devices, lamps, sockets and switches: they must have an IP 44 protection class or higher.
Installation steps
Instruments
Before starting work, you need to acquire some tools, namely:
- wall chaser, drill or puncher;
- Phillips and slotted screwdrivers, as well as a probe screwdriver;
- tape measure at least five meters;
- level;
- chisel with a hammer;
- pliers;
- tape and a knife.
If in some places it is not possible to use a wall chaser or a puncher, you can make gates (cavities) with a hammer and chisel.
Necessary materials
In order for the wiring in the bathroom to last for a long time, you need to choose high-quality materials: moisture-proof type sockets, preferably triple-insulated copper wires with a cross section of 2.5 mm, and other equipment that ensures the safety of the electrical network. Wires with strong bends and damaged insulation are not allowed.
Getting rid of the old
Was the wiring in the bathroom more than 15 years old? It is recommended to replace it with a new one in order to avoid overheating, fires and frequent knocking out of the machine. When combining a toilet and bathroom, replace the wires in both rooms. It is likely that power was supplied to the premises separately. Feel free to inspect all the wires.
How is the schema drawn up?
The correct circuit is a reliable assistant to an electrician. Think about the place of installation of electrical appliances, wires, sockets, decide on the type of lighting, in addition to this, you should think about how the room will be heated. Due to the high humidity in the bathroom, the wiring must be hidden.
- It is recommended to make at least 2-3 outlets in the bathroom.
- For a water heater and a washing machine, install a separate outlet for each appliance.
- Place the switch only outside the room.
- Each group of wires must have a separate automation.
- A line is led to each outlet perpendicularly, exactly down.
For hollow walls that are sheathed with plasterboard or other panels, the wires must be in the void between the wall and the cladding, for walls that do not have voids under the sheathing, strobing is performed.
Wiring
After the walls have been marked out, and the calculations have been carried out, it is necessary to prepare the places for lamps, switches and sockets as accurately as possible. Further, depending on the type of finish, there are several options for how to place the wires in the wall:
- There is a void between the decorative coating and the wall.
- It is difficult to pass the cable between the coating and the wall due to the small gap.
- Panels are missing.
The first option assumes the presence of voids in which wires are placed in a corrugated sleeve, passed through drilled holes in vertical profiles.
The second option involves strobe walls directly with laying the cable in the sleeve into the strobe and fixing it with special brackets.
In the third case, as in the second, cavities are created, however, they must be of such depth that the wiring in the corrugated sleeve fits completely there. After that, the strobes should be covered with alabaster mortar and leveled.
Later, a socket box is installed, followed by fixing it with alabaster and attaching triple wires (one core is grounding, the others are zero and phase) to sockets, lamps and other devices.
Safety and grounding
Modern electrical wiring is grounded and consists of three cores: two of them are zero and phase, the third is ground. In ancient times, when the wiring consisted of two components, they additionally grounded the room by running a cable with a large cross section from the bathroom to the distribution block on the flight of stairs. Now the wires are three-core and go directly to the distributor.
RCD application
The use of a residual current device contributes to safety during the operation of electrical appliances and is mandatory for connection to the bathroom circuit. The inlet shield is the place where the RCD is located. As the name implies, the device cuts off the electricity supply if the indicators of the outgoing and passing current do not match, so that the person is not shocked. Without experience, it is better not to install this device with your own hands.
Circuit breakers
Together with the RCD they put automatic machines. Do not confuse the RCD with a separate machine, which stops conducting current during short circuits and overloads. In electrical panels, a different number of machines are installed depending on the number of electrical appliances: for lighting in any rooms - one, for sockets - another, etc. For lighting, the recommended power of switches is 10 A with a load of at least 2200 W per hour. For example, one light bulb consumes no more than 60 W, washing machines - from 2000 W per hour or more, so for more powerful appliances you will have to install a 25 A machine with a load of at least 5500 W.
Let's deal with the main ground bus
In new houses or houses with upgraded networks, a switchgear is usually installed in the floor box, and the main ground bus can also be found there. You can determine that a new system is being used by the riser: a five-wire cable is routed through it. The tire is made only of copper and steel. It includes 5 or more places for connection, it is from them that the ground wires come: one is mounted in the shield, all the rest - to the current conductors (there may be a different number). When replacing the old wiring, the phase wire is connected instead of the old one, and zero - together with the neutral wires. It is forbidden to connect all ground wires on one bolt (clamp).
The electric floor also requires grounding. This is done by laying a metal mesh over the screed, and a ground cable is connected to the mesh with a terminal.
Safety sockets
Sockets require the installation of a separate RCD with a rated current of the same or slightly more (but not less) than that of the machine. With a large gap in the rated voltage, the device simply will not work.
Modern standard wattage washing machines require 16 amp waterproof type receptacles with a ceramic outer surface. Sockets must be equipped with special covers and protected from splashes.
Should I use junction boxes?
In the junction box there are connections for several electrical lines, which are connected using twisting or terminal blocks, from there one wire goes to the shield. It is located outside the bathroom. The main plus is the saving of cable and material resources. But there is a significant drawback - unreliability, because the terminal blocks and twists do not tolerate high voltage quite well.
Grounding option for a private house
Electrical wiring installed in a private house can be grounded independently with your own hands thanks to a cable connected to a triangle that goes into the ground or a three-piece fitting. After that, the necessary wire is attached to the welded bolt with a nut.
be careful
- Before starting work, always completely de-energize the apartment.
- Use only serviceable and high-quality tools.
- Be careful, because any mistake can lead to unexpected consequences in the future.
Do-it-yourself wiring installation is within the power of everyone, but before that you need to study many nuances, from the choice of material to safety precautions. Without the proper tools, knowledge and self-confidence, it is better to entrust this work to professionals.
It is completely ugly when, after repairing the premises, the wires are not hidden in the wall, but lie randomly on the floor or hang on the wall. They not only spoil the overall picture of the room, but can also lead to an accident. In some cases, you have to think about how to connect some kind of device and at the same time not spoil the design of the room. Of course, you should pay attention to how to hide the wires in the apartment.
Each house is connected to one or another household appliance, and in any case, the wires on the wall from these appliances can somehow catch the eye. This article will give detailed instructions on how to hide wires on the wall, in the wall and in the floor.
Hiding wires in the wall
First, with the help of a wall chaser, after removing the remnants of plaster and concrete, cut a strobe in the wall in which all the wires will be hidden. The wiring must be placed in a protective sheath - corrugation, which serves to protect against external adverse influences. Then the wires should be laid in the cut channels, after which the wall must be plastered.
To hide the wires in the wall, you have to break its integrity, and you often don’t want to do this, because the interior will suffer, in addition, the work is associated with dust and debris, and subsequently the wall must be reconstructed, which involves certain costs. Therefore, you can use other, more profitable methods in which you do not need to resort to wall chasing.
Wire on the wall
If you have an artistic taste, then you can fix the wire on the wall, making a picture out of it. It is quite clear that a native, one and a half meter wire is not enough for these purposes. Choose a suitable drawing, and transfer its contours to the wall, making a low-fat drawing with a simple pencil. Now you need to calculate the required amount of wire. To do this, you can attach a nylon thread to the wall so that it repeats the pattern. Then its distance can be measured. Do not forget to add the length from the drawing to the outlet and to the source of electricity consumption - add a meter in reserve and you will get the required amount.
Wire manufacturers most often do not indulge in an abundance of wire colors, so you have to choose from what is available - black or white. If these colors do not suit you, then you can buy an extension cord, which can be pink or red. Do not rush to rely on your opinion - try attaching a strip of colored fabric to the wall and you will immediately see if the chosen color suits and whether it will be in harmony with the overall environment.
If you decide to make everything simple, but tasteful, then you can fix the decor on the wire or come up with your own, something original.
Alternative Methods
You can find a different approach - to mask the wires, not hide them, and the existing elements of the room, for example, door frames, skirting boards, ceiling moldings, and heating risers, will help in this. With the right approach to work, the laying of wires can be made almost invisible, which will favorably affect the interior of the room. Usually low-voltage wires (internet and telephone) do not cause difficulties in laying, they can be hidden in baseboards, under metal thresholds or in platbands. When laying power cable, a different approach is needed.
It is problematic to stretch power wires along the wall, as they are of large cross section and are almost always white, which significantly distinguishes them from the background of the wall.
Often, all electrical communications in our time are laid by a hidden method, but due to various circumstances, such a laying option is not possible, for example, when, during repairs, it becomes necessary to install additional sockets or switches.
We hide the wire in the cable channel
Almost always in the house there is a section of wiring that needs to be driven into the wall or closed with a cable channel, which is a plastic box - it will protect the electrical wires from mechanical damage. The box has an attractive appearance and in this case it can be used as a decorative element. This option is also a solution to fire safety problems.
Laying wires in the bathroom can be especially difficult when the walls and floor of the room are completely tiled. If there is a false ceiling in the bathroom, the wires can be hidden in it, and if this is not possible, then the cable channel will help in this situation.
It is not recommended to install sockets in the bathroom, and if you do not have an urgent need for this, give up this idea, limiting yourself to installing lighting fixtures. If you need an outlet, then take care of safety precautions, and the outlet must be waterproof.
Wiring on the floor
It is also worth paying attention to how the wires are laid on the floor. To date, special skirting boards are produced, in which a niche for the cable is structurally provided. The top panel of the plinth is removed, the cable is laid there, then it is put back in place. The advantage of this method is convenience and dust-free operation. In such a plinth, you can hide both computer wires and a network cable.
Often wires from various chargers interfere with us. In this case, you can do as in the photo - hide them in a box specially made for this. If you can offer your own method, then at the end of the article you can add a comment and attach a photo of your invention to it.
Floor wiring
If it is necessary to hide the wires in the floor, then with the help of a wall chaser or a puncher, a gate is made in concrete, the wiring is threaded into the corrugation and fits into this recess. Upon completion of the work, the installation site is leveled with a sand-cement mortar.
If your house has a wooden floor, then in order to conduct wiring under it, you will have to remove the boards, and live the cable in a metal pipe.
As a rule, the TV is placed on the wall in front of everyone, so the wire from the TV will be very noticeable to others. It is best to hide the wire in the wall, and make sockets behind the TV. For this purpose, a wall chaser is used in the wall, and if this is not the case, then a groove is made with a perforator, the wires are collected and laid in a corrugation. Then the wires with the help of special fasteners and brackets must be fixed in the strobe and plastered.
If you do not necessarily need to completely hide the wire, then it can be disguised.
All the subtleties associated with wiring in the house are best provided for at the stage of repairing the premises so that there are no problems later.
Video
See how you can hide the wire from the lamp in the plinth:
This video shows how to make and hide home theater wiring:
A photo
Conducting hidden wiring is not as difficult as it might seem. And today we will tell you exactly about this, because it is the “closed” wiring that is a much more aesthetic and, accordingly, a popular way.
What is important: by installing hidden wiring, you save the interior of your own apartment. We will undertake to tell you how to conduct high-quality hidden electrical wiring in the walls in your home with our own efforts, without spending money on inviting an electrician.
Benefits of concealed wiring
Hidden wiring is a great option for major repairs or total replacement of wiring in the house.
The most tangible benefits are as follows:
- as mentioned above, the interior of the rooms is preserved, because all the wiring is hidden in the walls or in a space closed from the eyes by plasterboard sheets;
- higher fire safety (after all, if the walls are made of non-combustible materials - gypsum, concrete or brick, then the ignited wiring will not cause a fire);
- increasing the service life of the network, because it is truly protected both from mechanical influences and from other negative external factors (for example, from ultraviolet radiation).
However, there was a place for shortcomings. The most noticeable of them are some laborious installation in comparison with the open method (although it is worth it), as well as the complexity, if necessary, of repair work. The reason for this, of course, is clear - in the event of any malfunction (for example, a wire break or burnout), the wall finish will have to be destroyed. But whatever one may say, the closed wiring method is much more reliable. So, we figured out the disadvantages and advantages - this means that you can get down to business.
Installation: step by step instructions
Consider the procedure for laying electrical wiring using the example of a house with concrete or brick walls.
Create a schema
Creating a diagram involves drawing a special plan, which marks: the path of the power line, the location of sockets, switches, power boxes and lighting devices in each individual room. Such a scheme is also useful for calculating the volume of materials used. A good example for a one-room apartment or house:
- make sure that the cable runs exclusively in vertical and horizontal positions, and that a distance of 15-20 centimeters from the route to the floor or ceiling is observed;
- remember what is always done at the entrance to the room, and (although not regulated by any GOSTs or other regulatory documents) should be as convenient as possible for a person (this is how sockets are mounted behind the countertop in the kitchen, behind the TV in the living room, etc.);
- take into account the fact that the distance from the power line to the batteries, pipeline and ventilation ducts must be at least 50 centimeters (this is stated in the PUE).
We prepare materials and tools
This stage involves counting the number of switches, sockets, the required cable length and other network elements. It will also be necessary to perform to determine the diameter of the cores.
Under no circumstances should the calculation be neglected.- this is fraught with the fact that a too thin conductor will not cope with the load coming to it from powerful household appliances.
When the calculation is completed, select the necessary switches and sockets (for example, only waterproof product models are installed in the bathroom).
The minimum set of materials is as follows:
- gypsum mortar;
- insulating tape;
- terminal blocks;
- protective corrugated pipe (optional);
- cable - usually used;
- distribution wiring;
- socket boxes;
- sockets;
- switches.
The minimum set of tools, in turn, looks like this:
- Master OK;
- simple pencil;
- building level;
- screwdriver;
- special tool for removing insulation from wires;
- multimeter;
- a hammer;
- chisel;
- a tool for chasing walls (both a chasing cutter and a puncher or a grinder will do).
We make strobes for wiring
When all the necessary set of tools and materials is ready, we proceed to chasing. To do this, special markings are applied to the walls, thanks to which you can conveniently navigate when making recesses. By the way, the procedure can be simplified by using a rope painted with chalk or a special marking cord.
When the markup is applied, we take the tool and use it to make grooves in the walls. If you have a grinder in your hands, you need to cut two parallel lines with a distance of 3-4 centimeters between them, after which it remains to gouge the strobe with a hammer and chisel. The depth of the groove depends on the cross section of the cable and is determined taking into account a small margin (it is associated with subsequent plastering).
Of course, the best device for wall chasing is a specialized tool, also known as a chasing cutter. The wall chaser will make recesses quickly and without any hassle. The only catch is that the cost of the tool is quite high and it makes no sense to purchase it for a one-time use.
The last step of the gating stage is the creation of special recesses for sockets and junction boxes. A drill with a crown nozzle with a diameter of 6.8 centimeters will save here. And when the recesses are ready, we proceed to the installation. For reliability, socket boxes and boxes “sit down” on a gypsum mortar, which securely fastens the plastic to the concrete wall. At the same time, the edges of the products are placed flush with the surface - this will facilitate the procedure for decorating the walls in the future.
Cabling
Next, we lay the line, placing the cable along the strobe. First, the conductor mode into segments of the length we need (for example, a segment from a distribution box to an outlet, and so on), leaving a margin for connecting the cores. Next, we fix the cable in strobes with gypsum mortar. When the work is done, it remains to make a hidden wiring call to check the correctness of the connections, as well as the overall health of the network. Are you sure everything is fine? So, you can safely putty the wall!
I would like to make a separate reservation regarding the use of corrugated tubes when laying the cable. The protective corrugation is intended to save the line from all kinds of detrimental mechanical loads, shocks and similar phenomena. However, the use of such material is a purely individual thing.
This concludes the hidden wiring in the house or apartment. We can make sure that there is nothing particularly difficult or incomprehensible in the procedure. The main thing is to be careful, and also observe the color marking of wires when making connections. At the end, it remains to install sockets with switches, as well as protective automation in the shield (after which you can start installing chandeliers and arranging the premises).
A few words about drywall
We talked about wiring in concrete and brick walls. However, they did not mention the now common material - drywall, in which laying the cable is much easier. Easier because there is no need to perform gating.
The power line is drawn under the drywall sheets between the metal profiles:
Installation of underfloor heating is possible in rooms with high ceilings. Most often they are mounted in the bathroom, but underfloor heating under the tiles can be installed over the entire area of the apartment.
There are several heating methods that need to be chosen individually, depending on the height of the ceilings, the condition of the wiring and the water pressure in the apartment or country house. The most popular are heating mats, which are easy to install.
In this article, we examined the basic rules for laying infrared and cable underfloor heating. They also gave a detailed briefing on the arrangement of a heating system for tiles using heating mats. The material is provided with step-by-step photos and video recommendations from specialists in laying underfloor heating.
Before choosing a floor heating system, you need to consider that they have limitations. Despite the fact that heating systems can completely replace the heating in an apartment, this cannot be done according to the norms of Russian legislation.
These restrictions are due to a number of reasons:
- It is only allowed to use in apartments, and the massive use of such systems in the house leads to an increase in the load on the electrical network.
- A massive or partial transition to electric heating leads to an imbalance in the heat supply system in the house.
Since the floor will not be used as the main source of heat in the apartment, you can save on its installation. Savings consist in laying a heating cable or film only in those places that are free from furniture.
This will reduce the consumption of thermal energy, which will make it more economical in the long run, as well as at a time, when purchasing building materials and installation
In a private house, the possibilities of using this technology are much wider. Depending on the available energy sources, you can choose an acceptable option between water and electric heating.
If the house is equipped with autonomous sources of electricity, such as or, of course, it is worth making a choice in favor of electric ones, i.e. cable or infrared, heating systems.
If electricity is supplied through power lines, then using the electric option for heating a private house will be very expensive. In that case, it is better to make a choice in favor of. It will last about 35 years, after which it will require replacement.
Image Gallery
Installation of mats and installation of the control system
The process of installing electric mats is easier and faster than installing a cable. It is enough to place them on the heating area, which was determined when drawing up the scheme.
The cable will have to be laid on a mounting tape, which is a metal fastener that is fixed in the floor screed. When laying the cable, it is necessary to make turns of the same width
This will ensure an even level of heating of the floor surface. During installation, it is not recommended to break the cable.
After laying the cable, you need to install. It performs an important function - maintaining the desired temperature of the floor covering.
This allows you to reduce energy consumption, since periodically the heating will be turned off when the set temperature is reached. If the temperature sensor detects a decrease in the mode set by the user, the heating will automatically turn on.
To install the control unit in the wall, drill a hole of the required diameter. There must be a source of electricity near the installation site of the unit. It could be an outlet.
The hole should be located above 30 cm from the floor surface. A vertical channel is punched down from the hole, where the corrugation for the temperature sensor will be installed.
The opposite end of the corrugation should be located between the turns of the heating cable at an equal distance. If you do not follow this rule, then the sensor readings will be too high.
When connecting the heating cable to the control unit, you must follow the instructions from the equipment manufacturer. Before connecting, you need to check the resistance of the wires with a special device.
Rules for laying infrared floor heating
Despite structural differences, it is just as easy to install as electrical mats. But there is a difference between them. When connecting a film heater, not a serial, but a parallel connection is used.
From a constructive point of view, this is a more reliable method, since if a separate module fails, the rest will continue to function.
Such a floor has the advantage of reducing energy consumption due to its reduced consumption compared to electric mats. The film is sold in rolls and purchased in the quantity required for the heating area. The film can be cut, but only in those places where it is allowed by the manufacturer
The film must be laid with a slight overlap, strictly following the markings. The modules are held together with adhesive tape. This is a temporary method of fastening, since after pouring with a self-leveling floor, the need for fastening will disappear.
We examined in more detail the features of the film type of heating in.
Installation guide for electric underfloor heating
The quality of the coating depends on the condition of the base on which it is to be laid. Work should begin with the dismantling of the old coating. Everything must be dismantled, including the old screed.
You will need a blower to work. It is also necessary to think in advance how to transport and where to take out the old concrete. Dumping construction waste into garbage bins is prohibited
After removing the old coating, it is necessary to remove all small debris and dust. After that, you need to inspect the floor area and, if there are cracks, they must be repaired. When the floor surface is prepared, you can proceed to waterproofing and insulation.
Stage # 1 - installation of insulation under the electric floor
Insulation must be laid on the prepared base. It is preferable to use cork sheets. They have sufficient density and do not sag under the weight of the screed, as happens with polystyrene foam.
The use of low density insulation will lead to the need to dismantle the finished floor due to material depreciation.
Cheap polystyrene foam causes the screed under the tile to crack. This inevitably leads to peeling and damage to the tile. First, small cracks appear, and then the tile peels off.
The insulation is fastened to the surface by gluing onto bituminous mastic. Due to the use of this material, not only the fixation of cork sheets is achieved, but also waterproofing.
The service life of underfloor heating also depends on the quality of gluing. After waiting 5-6 hours, you can proceed to pouring the screed. The thickness of the screed must be at least 3 cm.
When using a self-leveling floor, there is no need for leveling with a rule, as is the case with self-mixed cement mortars. After work, you need to leave the surface to dry completely, for about 3-4 days.
Stage #2 - laying heating mats
After hardening of the bulk solution, you can proceed with the installation of a warm floor under the tile. First you need to outline with chalk the places where mats will not be installed. This will help you navigate and avoid overspending material.
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Most often, electronics fail, which is easy to replace and continue to use underfloor heating. In the event of a control unit failure, it will be difficult to get a new one if the manufacturer stops producing heating systems. Temperature sensors are easier to match as they are interchangeable in many models.
Have you installed tile underfloor heating in your home? What heating system did you use? How satisfied are you with the result and have you experienced any type of breakdown? Share your experience of installing and operating underfloor heating - leave your comments below this article.
When it is planned to install electrical wiring in a house from scratch, it often becomes a question of choosing a laying method. Everyone wants to do all this with a minimum of effort and as efficiently as possible.
In other articles on our site, we have already considered options for hidden and open wiring for different options for building materials. In this article, we will take a closer look at the rules for installing hidden wiring under a screed layer.
This option has recently become increasingly popular, because when replacing the screed, the rough work of wall chasing is significantly reduced.
The problem of wiring under the floor
Laying electrical wiring under the floor has its drawbacks. And in order to minimize them as much as possible, it is very important to properly plan the wiring and accurately determine the number of electrical points. After all, it will be almost impossible to make changes in the future.
So:
- The main problem that you may encounter with this type of wiring is the difficulty of complying with clause 2.1.23 of the PUE. It requires that all junctions and branches of wires be available for maintenance and repair.
- This greatly complicates the installation of wiring under the screed layer. Indeed, in any group network, we cannot do without. But we cannot equip them under the floor.
- There are several ways out of this situation. The simplest is the arrangement of junction boxes in the wall directly above the floor. But this method is aesthetically not very attractive, there is a possibility that children or pets can climb into the box, and if the room is flooded, it generally becomes very dangerous. Therefore, this method is rarely used.
- Much more often, home wiring is equipped using socket boxes as junction boxes. Indeed, by connecting each electrical point in series, it is possible to do without junction boxes. But there is one big problem here. If the wire that feeds a certain electric point breaks, all subsequent points also become inoperable.
- And of course, it is possible to arrange a junction box in a standard place under the ceiling. But this eliminates all the advantages of laying wiring under the floor and leads us to the so-called classic version of hidden wiring.
- From practice, I can say that some people ignore clause 2.1.23 of the PUE and equip junction boxes under a layer of screed. But this leads to problems in the future, and these problems can be associated not only with the wiring, but also with the screed due to insufficient rigidity of the stationary boxes. Therefore, I can not advise you this method of installation.
- The only exception is with wooden floors. Where it is possible to create original removable beams in the floor for servicing junction boxes. This method causes certain difficulties in implementation and has its own nuances, but as one of the options it is quite acceptable.
Under floor wiring diagrams
Based on the foregoing, let's look at the most common wiring scheme when laying it under the floor. In most cases, the method of using embedded socket boxes as distribution boxes is used.
And in order to minimize the disadvantages of this method as much as possible, it is very important to apply the correct wiring diagram for each individual room.
- First of all, it is very important for us to separate the power supply circuits of various electrical outlets as much as possible. Due to this, in case of damage in one of the sections, not the entire network of the room, but only a small section, will lose its operability.
- Therefore, based on the geometry of the room and the layout of sockets and switches, the room should be divided into 2-3 sections. Each site should have 2-3 electrical outlets. Usually these are 1-2 sockets and a switch (see).
- Also, our instructions advise you to immediately decide on the central outlet to which the main group wire will be connected. Usually, either the most loaded electrical point, or the most conveniently located in the center of the room, is chosen as such.
- If you choose the most loaded electrical point, usually it is double or, then it is very important that it is as close to the center of the room as possible. Otherwise, due to the large length of wires extending from it, the price increases slightly.
- If you choose an outlet located in the center of the room, but not the most loaded, then it is much more difficult to implement the connection itself. After all, in addition to the supply group wire, another 2 - 3 wires should be connected to it to power individual sections of your electrical network. For a single socket mortgage box, it is quite difficult to accommodate such a number of wires.
- If there are not so many electrical outlets in your room, for example, two or three sockets and a switch, then the separation of power into separate sections may not be done. But it all depends on your preferences and wishes for the reliability of the power grid.
Rules for installing wiring under the floor
The wiring on the floor has a number of limitations and in most cases depends on the material of the floors themselves. For wooden floors, they make the same requirements, and for embedding in a screed, they are somewhat lower.
We will first look at the general requirements and then for each of these cases.
So:
- First of all, it should be remembered that, according to clause 2.1.22 of the PUE, at the junctions of the wires, a supply of wire must be provided sufficient for reconnection. The electrical wiring of a house with installation under the floor is especially demanding on this parameter. After all, to replace it, more significant repairs will be required. Therefore, we advise you to leave a very good supply of wire.
- It should also be remembered that at the junctions and in general along the entire length of the wire, according to clause 2.1.24 of the Electrical Installation Code, it should not be affected by mechanical forces. That is, no tension is allowed.
- In order to exclude mechanical impact on the wire, it must be protected. For laying in the screed, a plastic corrugated pipe should be used for this.
Note! Many videos on the Internet suggest using steel corrugation or a metal pipe in general, but these are unnecessary precautions. According to the norms of the PUE, a plastic corrugation is quite enough for this.
- or pipe, according to the table. 2.1.3 PUE should be used when installing hidden wiring under wooden floors or when wiring crosses other combustible building materials. It should be remembered that the pipes should be laid in such a way as to make it impossible for moisture to accumulate in them. And if you are laying wiring in a damp or dusty room, then you need to connect the pipes to prevent moisture from entering them.
Note! Electrical wiring on the floor in a wooden house can also be made in a plastic corrugated pipe. But in this case, it should be covered on all sides with fireproof material. This is quite troublesome and time-consuming, so this method is used extremely rarely.
Conclusion
Now you know how to mount the wiring in the house under the floors with your own hands.
As you can see, this installation method has its own nuances and is far from always optimal. This is especially true for apartments and private one-story houses, although a lot here depends on each individual case and your wishes. But with a two-story private construction, this installation option can be very profitable. After all, it will allow you to place all electrical engineering networks in one place.
