Manual circular machine. Do-it-yourself stationary circular saw: manufacturing instructions. Wooden machine from a circular saw

It is difficult to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is the longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

  • base;
  • sawing table;
  • parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel emphasis.

So, the parallel stop is the movable part of the machine, which is the guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop, because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw curve may jam.

In addition, the rip fence of a circular saw must be of a fairly rigid construction, as the worker is exerting force by pressing the workpiece against the fence, and if the fence is allowed to move, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

There are various designs of parallel stops, depending on the methods of its attachment to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

Rip fence design Advantages and disadvantages
Two-point attachment (front and back) Advantages:· Pretty rigid construction · Allows you to place the stop in any place of the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· For fastening, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine around and fix the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and is a significant drawback with frequent readjustment.
Single point attachment (front) Advantages:· Less rigid construction than when fixing the fence in two points · Allows you to place the fence in any place of the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive in order to provide the necessary rigidity of the structure.
Fastening in the groove of the circular table Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw:· The complexity of the design, · The weakening of the design of the circular table, · The fixed position from the line of the saw blade, · Quite a complex design for self-manufacturing, especially from wood (made only from metal).

In this article, we will analyze the option of creating a design of a parallel stop for a circular with one attachment point.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed in the process.

The following tools will be used for work:

  1. Circular saw or can be used.
  2. Screwdriver.
  3. Bulgarian (Angle grinder).
  4. Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

In the process, you will also need the following materials:

  1. Plywood.
  2. Massive pine.
  3. Steel tube with an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
  4. Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
  5. Two washers with an increased area and an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
  6. Self-tapping screws.
  7. Joiner's glue.

The design of the stop of the circular machine

The whole structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning - relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is a complex structure that includes a set of parts.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure structural strength and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

  • The base of the transverse part;
  1. Longitudinal part
    , 2 pcs.);
  • The base of the longitudinal part;
  1. clamp
  • Cam handle

Making a circular

Preparation of blanks

A couple of things to note:

  • planar longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

At 22 mm, we drill a hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this with drilling, but you can just fill it with a nail.

In the circular saw used for work, a home-made movable carriage is used from (or as an option, you can make a false table “in haste”), which is not very a pity to deform or spoil. We drive a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the hat.

As a result, we get an even cylindrical workpiece, which must be processed with a belt or eccentric grinder.

We make the handle - this is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Cross section of the guide

We proceed to the manufacture of the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

  • The base of the transverse part;
  • Upper transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
  • Lower transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
  • End (fixing) bar of the transverse part.

Upper cross clamp

Both clamping bars - upper and lower have one end not straight 90º, but inclined ("oblique") with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when sawing blanks.

The upper transverse clamping bar is used to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing it against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the move and remove all defects that prevent smooth sliding, in addition, it is necessary to check the tightness of the inclined edges; gaps and cracks should not be.

With a snug fit, the strength of the connection (fixing the guide) will be maximum.

Assembly of the transverse whole part

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

    , 2 pcs.);
  • The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), as well as denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, it remains only to ennoble the edges. This is done with edging tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) And understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

And also additionally fix with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to observe the 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of the transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! it is important to observe the angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Guide rail installation

It's time to fix our entire structure on a circular machine. To do this, you need to attach the bar of the transverse stop to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out with glue and self-tapping screws.

... and we consider the work finished - the do-it-yourself circular saw is ready.

Video

The video on which this material was made.

A homemade circular saw is a kind of handy tool that can cope with a number of construction tasks at home. In principle, it will not be difficult to make a circular yourself even if you do not have any special skills, the main thing is to have at least a little idea about working with metal. The necessary material can usually be found in a garage or home workshop, and a steel corner, a rectangular profile pipe and an engine are suitable here. The assembled circular saw can be put on an existing workbench, or, in the absence of such, you will have to build a table for a circular saw with your own hands. As for the motor, you can use the unit from the old washing machine or walk-behind tractor, but first things first.

Hand held angle grinder

If there is a “grinder” on the farm, then there is no better device for a hand-held circular saw. Don't know how to make a mini circular saw at home from such a popular tool? Do not despair, because its manufacture only involves providing a sliding stop and an axial handle to an existing unit. The sliding stop includes in its design two pieces of a metal corner of a small section located on both sides of the saw blade. With the help of bolts and nuts, the corners are connected on the front and back sides with a cross ligament, and the technological gap between the sidewalls of the thrust structure and the working element will be provided with washers.

It is necessary to put on a metal band clamp on the grinder so that its screw tie is located at the bottom, and a strip of galvanized metal with a hole for the sliding stop, folded in half, is already fixed to it. In principle, a special clamp with a stand can be made as a single unit, but in this case, the thickness of the metal strip will ideally be at least one and a half millimeters. Further, in the gearbox housing of the future circular, you will have to make a couple of holes for the bolts, for which it is disassembled, and the drilling points are determined. Through the holes made, an axial handle for a circular saw assembled from a grinder is attached, since the existing handle will not allow high-quality cutting, even if the master has remarkable physical strength.

The axial handle, which will be supplied with a circular grinder, is made of a metal rod or tube. The design in shape can be a transverse bracket or a kind of horn. The ends of the metal part, with which the handle is attached to the gearbox, are provided with holes for fasteners. There is one important point here: the ends cannot be riveted in order to eliminate the deflection of the handle during the operation of the hand-assembled circular. It is also necessary to make an adjusting rod from a piece of metal rod (4 - 6 mm), for which we bend one end into a loop, rivet a little and form a hole for the front stop bolt. The uniformity of the gap, as usual, is regulated by washers.

At the other end of the rod, a thread is cut, thanks to which it will connect to the handle. First, one nut is screwed onto the thread, and after assembling the structure, the second one. By tightening and lowering the nuts of this fixture for a homemade hand-held circular saw, the depth of cut is adjusted. This is how at home you can convert the grinder into a full-fledged disk tool designed for cutting various materials. By the way, by remaking a circular from a drill, you can achieve a similar result.

Miniature Tabletop Circular Machine

The mobility of the element is achieved by sawing a horizontal segment into two uniform parts, which, after installation, are fastened with clamps. A circular saw is fixed to the vertical part of the frame on the clamp. A table from a hand-held circular saw assembly can function as a cutting machine if a standard cutting disc is installed on the grinder. It is worth noting that the through cut here will not exceed 80 mm, and for processing larger lumber, a more serious home-made circular machine will be required, which will be discussed later.

Stationary machine

Circular machine, as close as possible to factory models, requires a competent approach to assembly, therefore, before making a stationary type circular saw, you need to think through everything to the smallest detail. In principle, a desktop mini circular saw differs from a stationary one in the height of the frame, which directly depends on the nature of the work performed and the dimensions of the workpieces that the device will process. One-time work can be carried out on a compact table saw, while a circular saw from a hand-held circular saw can be easily hidden in a barn or pantry, and a carpenter who constantly manipulates lumber will need a stationary home-made circular saw. Below is a diagram that details all the elements and fixtures for a circular saw of this type.

As can be seen from the figure, home-made circulars of this type have a clear design, and drawings similar to the one presented above greatly facilitate the process of their assembly. Before you make a circular, as well as mount a circular table with your own hands, we will consider each detail of the unit separately in order to know all the intricacies of its operation and installation.

Circular table

A table for a manual circular saw with a slot in the center is sometimes remade from an ordinary kitchen table or assembled from bars or metal profiles. Experts strongly recommend covering the table for a circular saw with a sheet of galvanized metal, since without a coating, the base is threatened with abrasion in the center from constant friction of the lumber, which in turn will negatively affect the quality of the cut, and the depth of cut will be uneven. The cross ties that reinforce the saw table are best made from a 60 - 80 mm steel angle with the horizontal segment outward in order to simplify the installation of the side limiter. A home-made table on which a circular saw will be installed must be strong and stable, and it must also be securely fixed in a fixed position.

saw blade

The toothed disc should rise above the surface of the circular table by a maximum of a third of its diameter, otherwise it will not saw the wood properly, and the process itself will become dangerous. If you need to cut a beam with a diameter of, for example, 100 mm, a similar cutter parameter should not exceed 350 mm, however, an engine with a power of 1 kW or more is also required here. For workpieces with a diameter of more than 150 mm, a mini circular made by hand is hardly suitable. On some factory circular machines, a riving knife is provided, which is installed behind the disk at a distance of 2 - 3 mm from the saw teeth. It eliminates the jamming moment due to the closing of the parts of the sawn workpiece, therefore it can be very useful in the case when a home-made circular is assembled.

Side stop adjustable

It is possible to put a high-quality emphasis from a steel corner with a section of about 80 mm, which is 3–4 cm longer than the table structure. The flat sides of the corner are bent down so that their width is one and a half cm more than the thickness of the table. After installation, the stop is fixed on a homemade circular table in a predetermined position with the help of bolts. The adjustment of this element is carried out according to the template placed between it and the cutter.

Shaft

The shaft mounted on the circular is the most critical unit, therefore, only a specialist using special equipment should be engaged in its turning and testing as an assembly with the disk. A pipe product with a carelessly fixed circle is excluded immediately, because the slightest errors in the operation of this element will result in major troubles such as equipment breakdown, damage to the workpiece and injury to the operator. The best solution would be to purchase a finished shaft with a seat for the cutter. It is better to give preference to self-aligning ball bearings that have a curved inner surface, otherwise the assembly made by oneself will quickly collapse and the shaft mounted on a home-made circular will become unusable.

Broadcast

In our case, a V-belt drive would be an ideal option, but it is better to refuse a rigid gear mechanism, since such a homemade product does not guarantee safety. If a nail is suddenly caught in the lumber, the motor rotor will provoke the destruction of the disc, which can lead to injury. If the inner diameter of the belt drive pulleys is small, then slippage will be ensured, and the tensioned belt will serve as a kind of damper. The gear ratio is usually chosen based on the engine speed, always taking into account the allowable number of disk revolutions. The smaller the diameter of the saw blade, the greater the frequency of its rotation, and the cleaner the reworked unit will cut.

Motor

Among home-made devices, the most popular is a circular assembled from an engine from a washing machine. This choice is explained by the fact that its operation scheme is best suited for such purposes. Unlike collector units, which are usually supplied with power tools, the engine from the washing machine runs at lower speeds, which means that it shows longer operation, has increased efficiency and is not so prone to all sorts of clogging. You can also use a three-phase motor, but then additional costs will be required for the purchase of a starting and running capacitor, so it is more economical to get by with a device from a washing machine. Here, in general, and all the wisdom.

The main component of a carpentry home workshop is a circular saw. It is intended for primary processing of materials by manual or automated method. Due to the high cost of factory equipment, craftsmen most often come to the conclusion that it is best to make this machine with their own hands.

Requirements for household circular machines

Structurally, it should not differ from factory models. They consist of a support table, in the center of which there is a slot for a saw blade. In addition, the design contains measuring components, elements for fixing the workpiece and for ensuring the safety of work.

Before manufacturing, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for its components. It is important that they fit each other not only structurally, but also in terms of technical parameters. To do this, you can take a diagram of a typical design of a factory woodworking machine.

Complete set of woodworking saw equipment:

  • table. Must have sufficient stability, the surface of the countertop is perfectly flat;
  • power point. The main parameters of the electric motor for rotating the disk are power and number of revolutions;
  • additional components. These include stops for fixing a wooden workpiece, rulers for measuring.

The advantage of home-made models is the ability to choose its dimensions, performance and other technical parameters. In the process of drawing up a manufacturing scheme, you can choose the optimal height of the table, the dimensions of the tabletop, and the characteristics of the electric motor. This does not have a hand tool for woodworking.

Requirements for woodworking discs directly depend on the parameters of the workpiece, the type of wood and the required productivity speed. This is calculated on an individual basis.

Materials for the manufacture of a circular machine

After drawing up the optimal drawing for the manufacture of stationary equipment with your own hands, you need to select consumables. To do this, you can purchase rolled metal or use existing components.

The main problem is the choice of the power unit. Some recommend installing a factory-made hand saw. However, often they do not have the necessary power to process large volumes of wood. In addition, the limitation on the diameter of the disk will reduce the functionality of the equipment. Therefore, it is best to choose drawings in which there are two separate blocks - an electric motor and a shaft for mounting the disk.

The connection of the load-bearing elements of the desktop is carried out by do-it-yourself welding. Mechanical components will not provide a proper indicator of reliability, as backlash will form due to constant vibration.

  • table. For legs, you can use steel corners 30 * 30 or 40 * 40 mm;
  • countertop. It is made of dense chipboard, although experts consider the use of a steel sheet to be the best option. In this case, a lattice structure is made in the upper part of the table;
  • electric motor. You can use any household model of a 220 V asynchronous power plant, the power of which does not exceed 1.5 kW, and the maximum number of revolutions is 2400 rpm .;
  • a system of pulleys for transmitting torque on a shaft with a disk. Pulleys are best taken from the factory. A tensioning system must be provided.

To fix the workpiece along the length, it is necessary to provide a support bar. It should shift relative to the plane of the disk, thereby adjusting the width of the board being processed with its own hands.

Before welding, all steel blanks must be cleaned of rust. Painting is carried out only after the final manufacture of the saw machine with your own hands.

Assembling a homemade circular machine

After preparing the components, you can begin to assemble the structure on wood. Drawings are drawn up in advance, on which all the parameters of the elements are indicated: dimensions, welding places, mandatory processing zones.

First, the frame of the saw machine is assembled with your own hands. It is necessary to provide places for mounting the shaft with the disk and the electric motor. Pulleys should be located on the outside. This is necessary for the periodic tightening of the transmission belts and the prompt implementation of repairs.

According to the diagram, a slot is made in the center of the tabletop through which the disk will pass. The edges of the material must be processed, but the countertop must be even. The plane of the disc must be strictly perpendicular to the surface of the table. Recommended slot dimensions: width - up to 5 cm; length - up to 400 mm.

The motor control unit is located in front of the cutting area. This will help prevent chips from getting into electrical components.


To get acquainted with an example of making a circular saw with your own hands, it is recommended to watch the video material:



An emphasis for longitudinal sawing.

Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.

In general, any circular is suitable for installation on a table, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws for the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. The cast may crack.

There is another popular way to fix the circular to the table without drilling holes in the base - attach it with clamps that fix the base by pressing it to the surface. Only this method seemed to me not true enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of the installation, and I did not use it.

Another important parameter of a manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you saw without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.


The disc has been sawn to the top side of the table top. Height - 40mm (Bosh wood disc 160mm). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The depth of cut is set on the circular saw itself. It is convenient that the disk can be completely hidden in the table.

UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circulars, it may turn out that the disk is under an imperceptible slope. And all cuts will be beveled. Be sure to check with a tool square that the disc is at 90 degrees relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the native site. If the disk is not at a right angle and there is no way to set the ideal angle of the site, you can put several strips of tin on one side under the site, achieving the ideal angle (you can use washers for the screws that fasten the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)

Inside the table I placed a socket for the saw, which will now turn on with the start button.

This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (done in one evening and one morning).

Of course, it is possible to cut without equipment using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.

This design, clinging to the edges of the table and aligning with them, can move along the saw blade. By pressing the rail against the sled, you can easily cut it exactly at 90 o. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.

You can even cut the rail like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thicknesses.

Slides solve only part of the problems. For longitudinal sawing, a side stop is also needed.

I glued brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.

Clings to the edges with a death grip.

The circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made a simple pusher from the waste of a furniture board.

I have already managed to work with this table, sawing and slats, furniture panels, plywood. It became much easier to perform all these works than I did when sawing off with a hand circular saw.

In the future, I will further refine this table:
- I will remake the side stop for longitudinal sawing, so that when moving, it always remains parallel to the disk
- I will put a removable riving knife to which the disc protection will be attached
- I'll make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now when I drink, the disc throws wood dust right in my face)
- I will finish the improved pusher. I have already begun to make a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about this in the future.

I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.

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