How to insert plastic windows correctly. How to properly install a plastic window How to properly assemble a plastic window

In this article, we will look at how to properly install plastic windows in a private brick house and first we will do all the necessary preparatory work. They include the removal of the old window (if any), cleaning, leveling surfaces and measurements. Let's consider everything step by step.

Step 1 Delete window.

In some cases they do not yet exist (new house) or they have already been removed. If the old structures are still standing, then we carefully remove them so as not to damage the brickwork. To do this, you need to walk around the window with a puncher using the “spatula” nozzle, then remove all fasteners in the wall, if any, and pull the window out. Nothing complicated, the main thing is not to roll the walls too hard, so as not to bother yourself with work.

Step 2 Align the walls.

In order not to suffer for hours with a future window, it is easier to perfectly align the walls. To do this, you need to take a level, attach it to the side walls and align them perfectly to zero. It will be more convenient to set beacons so that the work is more productive. Then we take the level, apply it to the wall at the bottom of the future structure and align it. The easiest way to do this is with building glue, but you can mix a solution on sand 1: 3 - it doesn’t matter, the main result is, and you can even level it with all sorts of garbage.

Step 3 measurements.

Now that we have an even rectangle, we can measure it. There are companies that will calculate the size of the window themselves according to the parameters provided. But, as the Russian proverb teaches us: "Rely on guest workers, but don't make a mistake yourself." It is best to take measurements of the window yourself. We measure the rectangle and then do the following: we recline 2 cm from the top, subtract 3 cm from the sides and 2-3 cm from the bottom. Now we have the size of the window.

If you doubt the measurements somewhere, then it is better to subtract 1 cm more - it will not be difficult to close a large gap, just a little more expensive, but it will not be easy to break bricks with a puncher to stick PVC in.

Installing a new window

Now that we have everything prepared for action, we need to clear the premises for the convenience of workers and we can begin to build a professional out of ourselves. Consider step by step how to install a plastic window with your own hands.

Step 1 We miraculously put this whole item into the window frame and hope that the manufacturer did not disappoint with the size.

Now that it's in place deepen it 1/3 outside the thickness of the wall(we deepen from the side of the street). This will significantly reduce heat loss, as well as increase the efficiency of the entire structure.

Step 2 We measure deviations.

Installation of windows in accordance with GOST is carried out with a possible deviation along the entire window by no more than 2 degrees, so you should not violate the "traditions" and do everything smoothly. We first need to hammer in wedges from all sides (a piece of wood cut at an angle) in order to jam the entire structure in the opening. After that, we take a ruler and measure the gaps so that they correspond to the calculations described above. We move it left-right, up-down, until it is where it needs to be. Then we lean the level against the plane of the window and measure its forward-backward tilt. Additionally, lateral deviations can also be measured, but if you smeared the walls evenly, then they will not be.

Step 3 Fasten with dowels.

Is everything lined up? We fasten the frame to the wall with long dowels. There are no special requirements for installing windows according to GOST for this item, since this is a technological process - to fix it so that it holds a little and can be sealed further. Therefore, we fix it as we want, so long as the frame is not damaged. The only rule is that you cannot tighten the dowels, otherwise the frame will lead (dowel length 12-16 cm). Just grab a little to the wall.

Step 4 We blow everything with mounting foam.

Windows should be installed in such a way that the foam layer is equal to the width of the window structure, without gaps, without gaps, without cracks.

Step 5 We install window shutters.

If you haven't tightened the frame anywhere and pushed everything in carefully, they will open perfectly back and forth. Otherwise, they will scribble on the frame. They scribble strongly - you have to redo it, they get it very weakly - we let them down on the mounts.

Step 6 Installation of slopes.

There is nothing supernatural here: we just take a slope and put it on the foam. First they are attached from above, then the side slopes.

Step 7 We fix the window sill.

It must be screwed to the window frame with screws (there are special places for this from below). Can be planted on building glue or foam. The second option is less desirable, since the window sill will “play” and may crack if you sit on it - the foam is not very strong.

If there are gaps somewhere, they can be sealed with a sealant of a suitable color. Installing windows in a wooden house, for example, may exclude many points of the instruction, and when installing a structure in the opening of a brick house, all points are required.

Checking work

After you fix the window, as well as during the execution of work, periodic checks must be carried out in order to prevent errors and not completely redo everything. Let's consider in more detail.

1. After installing the structure in the frame, check the level along the bottom so that the window does not mow to the side, and only then screw it with dowels.
   
2. After every 3-4 dowels, check the deflection of the frame, since plastic is fragile, it is very easy to move it to the side, unscrew the dowel if necessary.
3. When installing insulation, the window is pressed in from the outside until it is completely hidden behind a layer of insulation plus 5 centimeters further into the wall.

When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many people wonder how difficult it is to install them yourself. The answer is a job of medium complexity. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for someone with no experience. Employees of firms doing this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation of plastic windows with their own hands by the owner of the premises cannot be compared with the hasty work of "professionals". They simplify the process indecently, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years now and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky enough to find really masters, then you can entrust the installation to them. If not - better spend the weekend and install yourself.

Construction of plastic windows

To properly understand the installation process, you need to have an idea about the design of windows. Let's start with materials and names. Plastic windows are made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.

The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made from a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.

In the middle of the structure, in the largest chamber, a blue insert is visible. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows, this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.

There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. The best choice if you need normal windows is the standard class. In the economy class, the partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment of installation. Premium comes at a high price with options that are essentially unnecessary.

If you want to have the best profile for plastic windows, take the class standard of any factory. There is no particular difference between the products of different companies. They have been standardized for a long time and all the stories of managers about the benefits are fairy tales. If they are manufactured on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have long been standardized.

Profiles for windows in the standard version are white, but can also be brown - to match the color of any tree, and even pink - on request. Colored profile windows are more expensive than similar white ones.

window structure

To understand what is at stake in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.

It consists of:

• Frames. This is the base of the window.
• If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is in two parts, there is one impost, If out of three - two, etc.
• The opening part of the window is called the sash, the fixed part is called the capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically fastened together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses, providing tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to manufacturers, reduces heat loss through windows. There are also double-glazed windows, between the glasses of which an inert gas is pumped. It also reduces heat loss.
• Double-glazed windows are pressed against the frame with a cap - a thin plastic bar. The tightness of the connection is ensured by a rubber seal (usually black).
• Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and locking. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro-ventilation.
• To ensure tightness, rubber seals are installed on all parts - the frame, impost and sashes.

At the bottom on the outer side of the frame (the one that faces the street) there are drainage holes that are closed with special caps. Through them, the condensate that forms inside due to the temperature difference in the street and in the room is discharged to the street.

Another window has a low tide - a board on the outside that drains precipitation and a window sill inside. Lateral and upper parts from the side of the street and the room. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.

How to measure a plastic window

When ordering windows, you will need six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and slope. In order to measure everything correctly, it is necessary to determine whether you have made a window opening with a quarter or without.

You look at the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, an opening with a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest point: openings rarely have ideal geometry, so you will have to measure at several points. Find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. Pass the height as it is.

If the opening is even, the calculation is different. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width, 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides for mounting foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since all the same 1.5 cm are needed from above, and 3.5 cm from the bottom will go to install the window sill.

The length of the window sill and the ebb is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill are “drowned” a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The width of the ebbs is standard, so the nearest larger one is selected. On window sills, the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Some people like wide ones so that they can put something, someone prefers flush with the wall. So there are no rules here.

Even when ordering, you will need to specify how many and what parts your window will have: whether or not there is a capercaillie, where it is located, how many sashes, which side they are on, how they should open. You will need to specify the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).

Training

If you change windows, do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with the dismantling of the old one. Problems usually do not arise: to break not to build. After dismantling, it is necessary to revise the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - with a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, it is necessary to remove all construction debris. Ideally, sweep everything up to the dust, otherwise the foam will not “grab” with the wall during installation.

If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them with cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the easier the installation will be. With loose wall material, they can be treated with binders: penetrating adhesive primers.

How to install correctly: choosing an installation method

There are two different methods: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame, through which an anchor is driven into the wall. This method is more difficult, but the mount is more reliable.

This is an anchor bolt. They are placed three pieces on each side.

When installed without unpacking, metal plates are attached to the frame from the outside, and then they are attached to the walls. This, of course, is faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: with significant wind loads, the frame will warp or it will sag.

If you really don’t want to disassemble the window, you can also mount it on a plate, but use not narrow and thin ones, but thick and wide ones, which are still often used when installing the truss system.

In principle, small windows mounted on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in a region with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is located in a high-rise building on a high floor, in these cases installation with unpacking is necessary.

Watch an emotional and intelligible video below, which explains why it is better to use an anchor.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step by step instructions

Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, the bearing capacity of which is small and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using a “layered” technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window should be in a soft layer, then it will need to be fixed with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. the house is desirable on the anchor.

Installation with unpacking

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening, make sure they are compatible. After that, you can get to work. The process begins with the disassembly (unpacking) of the PVC window. Here are the steps:

1. 1. 1. 1. Removing the window sash:
            • Close the window (handle turned down).
            • Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They pry off with a screwdriver.
            • There is a pin on the top loop that provides a movable connection. It is in the center and protrudes a little. They press on it until it drowns (you can take a metal plate, rest it on the pin and lightly hit the plate). The pin will pop out from the bottom. Now you can grab it with side cutters or pliers and, pulling it down, pull it out.
            • Holding the sash at the top, open the lock. To do this, put the handle in a horizontal position. Having tilted the upper part slightly towards you, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.

            The entire sash has been removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
            

         2. On the capercaillie, remove the double-glazed window. It is held on by pegs. They need to be removed, then the double-glazed window itself will be removed without problems. Remove the pins like this:
            • Something narrow and durable is inserted into the gap between the bead and the frame. If there is no special tool, it is best to use a small spatula. Disassembly begins with one of the long sides.
            • The spatula is carefully driven into the slot with a corner and gradually move the glazing bead away from the frame.
            • Without removing the tool, they move along a little, again pushing the bead aside.
            • So they go along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated, it is simply removed.
            • With the short side, everything is simpler: the freed edge is hooked and, by turning the spatula, is removed from the groove. Grasp the freed edge with your hand and pull up.

            Now you can try to remove the double-glazed window. Just be careful, it's heavy. If it doesn't work, remove one more of the glazing beads. Just make sure that the window is tilted so that the double-glazed window does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the double-glazed window yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.

      1. The freed frame along the outer perimeter is pasted over with a special self-adhesive tape. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With her, the window does not stand out so much.

         

      2. Remove the protective tape with the campaign logo. If you leave it, it will fuse too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
      3. The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. For its exposure, mounting wedges are used. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. Putting them on the window is set strictly according to the level in three planes. Pre-fix the position of the window. That's what mounting plates can be used for.

         

      4. Take a drill and a drill that matches the size of the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm recede from the upper edge. This is the first hole. The bottom one is about the same distance from the bottom corner. Between them, in a standard window, another anchor is installed: the maximum distance between the two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.
      5. Having made a hole, they will check whether the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then they hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You can not drag: the profile should not bend. Repeat this operation as many times as necessary.

         

      6. Install drains outside. To do this, first, a vapor-permeable waterproofing (it is self-adhesive) is glued onto the outer part of the frame. Small strobes are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the tides are then inserted.

         

      7. A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then an olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is brought under the ledge of the frame and there it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

         

      8. The tide also foams along the lower edge.

         

      9. Next, foam the opening. When installing plastic windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better polymerization of the foam.
      10. A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the frame contour - it is also recommended by GOST.
      11. Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps by 2/3 of the volume. If the gap size is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprinkled with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is filled by 2/3.

          

          Foaming PVC windows during do-it-yourself installation can be carried out in several stages - it depends on the size of the gap

      12. Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using the tape, the slopes will need to be made plastic: plaster and mortar do not “stick” to it.
      13. Assemble all parts of the window. Only finishing work remains, and they are not a hindrance.
      14. A vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill in the lower part (also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support pads made of hardwood treated with impregnations. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5 °).

          

Watch the video on how to properly install a window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.

The slopes are installed or sealed last. There is another video on this.

Installation without unpacking

The main subtleties are described above, so this chapter is small. Installation for this option begins with the installation of mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable thick metal.

They are installed at the same distance as the anchor: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Then do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows with mounting plates is identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is set to the level in the opening. Only they fix not the frame, but the plates and not on the anchor, but on the dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert the dowel, putting the plate in place, twist the dowel. Further, all actions are identical.

Now it’s clear why installers prefer them: it takes a decent amount of work with disassembly, anchoring, etc.: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tightly. No worse than anchors. For example, such as in the video.

If you or your friends have previously used the services of companies for the installation of double-glazed windows, then you know that installation can be ordinary and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, then the quality will be much higher than in the first (for more details about the standards, see GOST 30971-02).

Consists of several stages.

Note! When manufacturers do not give a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. If the windows are installed incorrectly, they will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, then the structure simply will not enter the opening.

However, if you study all the subtleties of the process, then there will be no difficulties during installation. Moreover, this way you can save a decent amount of money.

Video - Installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST

Stage 1. Measurements

In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.

Note! A quarter is an internal frame 6 cm wide (or ¼ of a brick, hence the name), which prevents the window from falling out and strengthens the structure as a whole.

If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on anchors, and the foam will be closed with special flashings. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the inner and outer widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.

1. First, the width of the opening (the distance between the slopes) is determined. It is recommended to remove the plaster so that the result is more accurate.
2. Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope from above and the window sill).

Note! Measurements must be repeated several times and take the smallest result.

To determine the width of the window, two mounting gaps are subtracted from the width of the opening. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the profile height for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.

The symmetry and straightness of the opening is checked, for which the mounting level and plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.

To determine the width of the outflow, 5 cm should be added to the already existing outflow for bending. Also, the width of the insulation and cladding is taken into account (subject to the subsequent finishing of the facade).

The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the size of the departure is added to the width of the opening, the width of the frame is subtracted from the received figure. With regards to departure, it should cover the heating radiator by a third.

Note! measured after installation.

Stage 2. Order

After measurements, the finished drawing should be taken to the window manufacturer, all the necessary fittings will be selected there. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:

In the first option, you will have to pull the package out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached entirely. Each option has disadvantages - if you pull out the package, then it can; and vice versa, if the window is installed assembled, then it can be damaged due to its large weight.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Stage 3. Preparation

This stage of installation begins only after the delivery of the ordered windows. First, the workplace is vacated, all furniture is covered with plastic wrap (there will be a lot of dust).

Step 1. If required, a double-glazed window is removed from the window. To do this, the glazing bead is slightly tucked in with a staple and pulled out. First of all, vertical glazing beads are removed, then horizontal. They are necessarily numbered, otherwise gaps form after installation.

Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the canopies. The handle is turned to the "ventilation mode" (in the center), the window is slightly opened and removed. Only the frame with imposts remains.

Note! Imposts are special lintels intended for dividing sashes.

Then you need to make markings for the anchors and make holes on it - two from the bottom / top and three from each side. This will require anchors ø1 cm and a drill of the required diameter.

If the material from which the walls are made is loose (for example, cellular concrete), then fastening is carried out using anchor hangers. The latter should be fixed on the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight pieces each).

Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it must be filled the day before installation. So the element will not freeze through.

Stage 4. Dismantling work

This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before installing a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be pulled out along with the mount, and, if necessary, the frame can be sawn.

Step 1. First, the seal and thermal insulation are removed.

Step 3. The window sill is removed, the cement layer under it is cleaned off.

Step 4 Adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.

Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒС. Mounting foam must be frost-resistant.

Stage 5. Installing a plastic window

Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (it will be easier to align the structure), only after that it is fixed to the wall. Substrates can be left - they will serve as additional fasteners.

Step 2. The absence of a stand profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install an ebb with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.

The correct location of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.

Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which the mounting level and plumb line are used. It is characteristic that traditional bubble levels are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, therefore it is better to use.

Step 4. If the window is straight, then it is fixed with anchors. To do this, a wall is drilled through pre-prepared holes in the structure with a puncher (about 6-10 cm). The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the evenness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.

Note! The final screed is made only after the final check. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the design will “skew”.

Prices for mounting foams and cleaners for mounting guns

Mounting foams and cleaners for mounting guns

Stage 6. Drainage

Outside, an ebb is attached to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture from penetrating into the structure.

The edges of the tide are recessed into the walls for several centimeters, having previously made recesses with a perforator.

Note! Before installation, the lower slot is also sealed.

Stage 7. Assembly of the window

After fixing the anchors, the double-glazed window is inserted back.

Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber mallet).

Step 2. The flaps open, the tightness of their fit is checked. In the open position, arbitrary opening/closing of the sash cannot occur if the window is level.

Step 3. A mounting seam is sealed on the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and prevent glass from fogging. Before and after sealing, the joints are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.

Note! The seams are filled no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will “lead”. If everything is done correctly, after drying, the foam will come out a few centimeters.

Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and a material with a foil surface is used from below.

Stage 8. Installation of the window sill

Step 1. The window sill is cut in such a way that it enters the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. In the future, the gap is hidden by plastic

Step 2 Wooden wedges are placed under the windowsill. It must be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy for a while until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.

Video - Instructions for installing plastic windows

findings

Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after the end of installation (then the foam will already “grab”).

The described technology is quite applicable to, although there are some nuances there too - such as, for example, installing a parapet to create a partition.

Find out how to do it right from our new article.

To independently install a plastic window in your apartment or house, you do not need to have special skills and special tools. Correctly insert it into the opening and secure it with anchor bolts, even a self-taught installer can. It is enough to be able to handle the building level and puncher. Only the installation must be carried out clearly according to the rules prescribed in the GOSTs and the instructions of the manufacturers of PVC window products. Otherwise, this translucent structure will not last long.

Necessary tools and materials

Installation of a plastic window is carried out in five stages:

1. Dismantling the old window frame.
2. Opening preparation.
3. Installation and leveling of a new frame with sashes.
4. Drainage mount on the outside of the window.
5. Foaming of mounting gaps and installation of a window sill with slopes.

In addition to a puncher and a level, you will also need a hammer, a screwdriver, a water sprayer, a spatula, metal shears and a mount to install a window from the tools. Of the consumables, it is necessary to pre-purchase mounting foam, silicone, anchor bolts or metal plates with self-tapping dowels and plastic construction wedges (or prepare small pieces of wood).

Necessary tools for installation

You will also need a vapor-permeable self-adhesive and waterproofing tape. Plus, PVC windows should include slopes, a support profile, a window sill and a metal tide. If all this is available, then you can proceed with the installation.

window design

Dismantling the old PVC window and preparing the opening

To get rid of an old wooden or plastic window, it is necessary to remove the sashes and make a cut on the side of its frame with a hacksaw. Then, with a mount, one of the resulting parts is pulled back and pulled out of the wall together with fasteners by force of hands. After the procedure is repeated with all the remaining fragments of the deleted window. Then the insulation is removed from the opening (if it is there) and everything that can fall off (for example, a solution).

Sectional design of plastic windows

As a result, only bare and even ends of walls made of brick, concrete or wood should remain. If these surfaces have chips, cracks or potholes with a depth and size of more than 1 cm, then they must be repaired with concrete mortar. Nothing special is required here to align for a new plastic window, all the same, then small cracks and recesses will be filled with mounting foam. However, leaving deep noticeable defects without sealing is not worth it.

Possible measurement errors

Before working further and installing a plastic window with your own hands, dirt, dust and oil stains must be removed from the surfaces in the opening. If you have to insert a window structure in winter, then you also need to remove snow and frost, and then heat the ends of the wall with a building hair dryer to remove moisture.

Window installation

Installation of PVC windows with fixation in the opening can be done in two ways:

1. Anchor bolts through the frame profile.
2. Plates fixed on the side of the frame with self-tapping dowels.

The first option is more reliable. However, with this technology for installing plastic windows, the frame profile is drilled through. As a result, its thermal insulation efficiency decreases. If the window block needs to be installed in a building erected in a region with a cold climate, then it would be best to refuse this method.

The second option for fixing plastic windows is considered less reliable and is not recommended in the presence of strong wind loads. But in winter, the heat through the holes in the profile from the house in this case will definitely not go outside.

Installation of windows with different slope options

Holes for fixing PVC windows are drilled in the wall with a distance of 15–25 cm from the corners of the opening. Plus, one or two more holes on the sides, bottom and top are made in the middle with a step of no more than 70 cm between them.

Directly setting a new window in the opening is carried out on the stand profile and adjusting wedges. Plus, it will be necessary in advance to glue a vapor-permeable gasket (PSUL) around the outer side of the frame. And you should not tighten the bolts or self-tapping screws until they stop immediately after leveling the structure in the opening with the help of a level. First, you still need to fix the ebb to drain rainwater and waterproofing.

How to position the window frame

Drainage

The next step in installing a plastic window with your own hands is to mount the drainage system. It must be placed in any scenario. Without this outer element of the window block, all the rain water will fall on the foam and under the frame. The inevitable result will be the destruction of the mounting seam and the formation of gaps between the profile and the wall.
The ebb is fastened with self-tapping screws not to the window itself, but to the stand profile under the frame. In this case, the waterproofing tape is first laid. And then a drainage system is placed on top of it and fixed in place. Then foam is sprayed under this metal bar.

How to properly position a drain

Plastic window assembly

Before installing a plastic window in the opening, it is necessary to remove all opening sashes from it so that they do not interfere with installation work. Plus, the double-glazed window is also removed from the deaf part of the structure. To do this, pry off the plastic glazing beads with a spatula and knock them out of the groove.

Re-installation of sashes and double-glazed windows in plastic windows is done before foaming the gaps around the frame. If they are not installed back into place, then the mounting foam cannot be blown out. After spraying, polyurethane foam expands 1.5–2 times. Moreover, this happens with the creation of a sufficiently strong pressure on the frame profile. It can be easily bent so that then inserting the sash back simply does not work.

Window sill installation

Installing a window sill on a window largely repeats the technology of installing a drainage system. Only instead of a waterproofing tape indoors, a vapor barrier is used. If the waterproofing on the outside prevents moisture from entering the mounting seam, then the vapor barrier on the inside is designed to evaporate it into the house.

Installation of windows with and without waterproofing

The foam in the gap should not get wet and freeze in any way, this will instantly destroy it. the window sill is laid on wooden supports-guides located perpendicular to the window and along its entire length with steps of 30-40 cm. In this case, a slope of 2-3 degrees inside the room must be observed. This is necessary so that the resulting condensate drains from the window sill, and does not stagnate in the corners.

Joint waterproofing

After alignment and alignment of the window sill, it is inserted with pressure under the lower edge of the frame. Then the gap is foamed from below and a weight is placed on top of the plastic plate. After the foam hardens, it is securely fixed in place.

In this article I will tell you in detail how to install plastic windows with your own hands. I will give a semblance of instructions for installing windows, which includes the dismantling of the old window and all the subtleties of how to properly install plastic windows in an old or new window opening.

Does it make sense to install plastic windows with your own hands

I will say right away that there is nothing complicated about how to install a plastic window yourself. It does not require special skills or expensive professional equipment. The technology for installing plastic windows is quite simple and consists of dismantling the old window and installing a new one. In terms of time, the dismantling of the old window takes from 30 to 90 minutes, and the installation of a new plastic window in its place takes an average of 2 hours (the average window is up to 2x2 m in size). In total, it will take you 2.5-3.5 hours to replace one window. Agree, it's not much. So, if you wish, approximately in one weekend, you can replace the windows yourself with your own hands, changing 2-3 windows a day. Savings in this case will be about $ 40-60 per window. This is how much window replacement services cost today. Sometimes the installation price is set as a percentage of the cost of new windows and ranges from 10 to 40% of the cost of new metal-plastic windows in various regions and companies. The dismantling of the old window and the delivery of a new one, as well as the finishing of the slopes, if you order the installation of new windows from them, are most often done free of charge.

If you still decide to entrust the installation of windows to builders, then below I will list the guarantees that you have the right to demand:

• if you buy windows yourself not from an installation company, then you can only be guaranteed for: seams, their filling (with foam, silicone), verticality and horizontality of the corresponding parts and window performance for about a year after installation;
• if you buy windows in the same place where you order installation work, then you will also be provided with a guarantee for fittings, on average it is 1 year, a maximum of 3-5 years for elite expensive windows.

When installing windows with your own hands, you have the right to demand a guarantee for fittings from the organization where you buy the windows. And the responsibility for the seams and their filling remains on you.

I will say one thing for sure, if you have one free weekend, diligence and a desire to save money, then following the recommendations that I will describe below, you will be able to replace the windows in your house no worse than any installation team. Moreover, the word "team" is applicable to the installation of windows, very conditional. Since, in fact, the installation is performed by 1 person, and another one simply supplies tools and holds the window at the right time.

Correct measurement of a plastic window

To order plastic windows from the seller, you need to make preliminary measurements.

To do this, you must first determine what kind of window opening you have - with or without a quarter. For clarity, in the figure below I show a schematic view of the opening with a quarter (A) and without (B).

Scheme of a window opening with a quarter and without a quarter

We measure windows without a quarter

Installation of windows without a quarter is as follows. If your house is new, then the windows are mounted in an empty window opening. And in order to order a window, you need to subtract 5 cm from the size of the opening vertically - this will be the height of your window. And subtract 3 cm from the size of the opening horizontally - this will be the width of your window. Subsequently, when installing the window yourself, these 3 cm will be filled with mounting foam (1.5 cm on each side of the window). And 5 cm is 1.5 cm from the top of the window for filling with mounting foam and 3.5 cm for the window sill under the window.

You also need to make measurements of the length and width of the window sill and the outer ebb and add at least 5 cm to these dimensions so that the window sill “cuts” a little on the right and left into the wall. For an inexperienced installer - you can take 20-30 cm in reserve, the excess is cut off during installation. In general, window sills and sills come in unified widths (10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 cm) and lengths (up to 6 m), but in any case, you must provide the minimum dimensions so that you can be brought the most suitable window sill and sill from available.

We measure windows with a quarter

We measure the size of the window opening horizontally between the quarters at the narrowest point. Add 3 cm to this size (1.5 cm on each side of the window). This will be the width of our window. And vertically, we simply measure the distance from the bottom of the opening to the upper quarter, do not add or subtract anything to it. This will be the vertical size of our window. We measure the window sill and the ebb in the same way as in the version of the opening without a quarter.

Thus, we get 6 sizes:

• window height;
• window width;
• window sill length;
• window sill width;
• tide length;
• tide width.

Plastic window dimensions

If your house is not new, and an old window is still installed in the window opening, then measurements are made in the same way. Only for the window opening, you take the outer dimensions of the window frame, as it will need to be dismantled.

When ordering a window, be sure to specify whether the kit includes:

• windowsill;
• plugs are intended for plastic window sills. When ordering them, you need to tell us what the width of the window sill will be (overhang from the wall). There are 300 and 600 mm, but this is a total length, this includes two ends on one leg, and if, for example, the total length of the overhangs does not exceed 300 mm, then a plug will suit you - a 300 mm plug;
• installation profile (aka - installation profile, sweet clover, heel, window sill profile, etc.);
• fasteners for windows - anchor plates.

If not, they must be ordered separately.

Also, when ordering a window, in addition to its size, you will also be asked for such important characteristics as:

• window profile type: 3, 4 or 5-chamber;
• type of double-glazed window: 1, 2, 3-chamber;
• window opening method: blind, with opening, tilt-and-turn with ventilation, tilt-and-turn with ventilation and micro-ventilation.

Methods for installing plastic windows, their pros and cons

To date, there are two ways to install metal-plastic windows: installation of windows with unpacking and installation without unpacking the window.

Scheme of the device of a plastic window

So, the method of installing a window with unpacking involves preliminary disassembly of the window: glazing beads are removed, double-glazed windows are removed from the frame and set aside for the duration of the installation of the window frame, then the frame is attached to the wall through dowels, after which double-glazed windows and glazing beads are installed back.

Installing a window with "unpacking"

Installation without unpacking does not require the removal of double-glazed windows and glazing beads, since the frame is attached to the wall not through, but with the help of fasteners previously fixed on its outer surface.

Installing a window without "unpacking"

At the same time, the method of installing a window with unpacking has several disadvantages.

For example, installation with unpacking sometimes leads to fogging of the double-glazed window during operation. Removal and re-installation of glazing beads, especially without such experience, often affects their appearance (visible scratches, chips). Double-glazed windows during the installation of windows must be placed in a place that is safe for their integrity, otherwise they can be accidentally broken, especially if left near the installation site. The installation method itself is more laborious and takes longer than installation without unpacking (on average, installation of each window will take 30 minutes longer, and if you install plastic windows for the first time, then about 60 minutes).

Installation of plastic windows without unpacking is devoid of the above disadvantages, since the double-glazed window does not need to be removed from the frame.

Now, as for the strength of the attachment. The unpacking method is considered more durable, especially if the frame is fixed through to the wall with large long anchors. Therefore, it is worth stopping if:

1. You plan to fix windows on the 15th floor of a multi-storey building and above. On such high floors, there is a lot of sail and gusts of wind, especially if the house borders on lower buildings. Below 15 floors, windows can not be unpacked.
2. If your windows are very large (2x2 m or more), then it is better to choose the method of fastening with unpacking or combined. Balcony block can be fixed without unpacking.

In private houses, where windows are usually installed in standard medium sizes, and the number of storeys rarely exceeds 4 floors, of course, it is better to choose the method of installing metal-plastic windows without unpacking. Fastening strength without unpacking will be more than enough.

And given that our site is devoted to private construction, then we will analyze in detail a method of fixing a plastic window that is more suitable for low-rise construction - without unpacking.

window installation tool

• screwdriver;
• level;
• foam gun;
• polyurethane foam at the rate of 1-3 cylinders per 1 window (it is difficult to say exactly, as it depends on the size of the window and the filling of the cylinder);
• perforator;
• silicone gun;
• set of hexagons;
• jigsaw;
• stationery knife;
• pencil;
• roulette.

The sequence of installation of plastic windows

In order to understand how to install the window correctly, - to I will briefly list the main stages of installation, after which we will dwell on the main stages in detail:

• we dismantle the old window (with it a window sill, if necessary);
• preparing a new metal-plastic window for installation;
• we apply markings on the window frame in the places of subsequent fastening;
• fasten fasteners to the window frame;
• we make recesses in the window opening in places where fasteners will be attached;
• set the plastic window according to the level;
• fasten the window to the window opening;
• we fix the ebb (it can also be mounted at the very end);
• pre-adjust window fittings;
• we foam the gaps between the frame and the window opening;
• install a window sill;
• We carry out the final adjustment of window fittings.

Dismantling the old window

1. On deaf windows, we take out the glazing beads, then the glass. On opening windows, remove the sashes from the hinges. If the windows in the sashes are held firmly, then the sashes can be removed directly with them. If the windows are very old, the frames are movable diagonally, then for safety reasons it is better to remove the glass from the sashes beforehand.
2. We make cuts in several places of the frame. For this, it is better to use a regular saw. Sometimes for such purposes they use a grinder with a circle on concrete (there will be a lot of smoke). Very important! In this case, it is categorically impossible to cut with an ordinary circle for metal, since it can jam, or even break. And given that the disk spins at an average speed of about 7000 revolutions per minute, this is very, very dangerous. It is also categorically impossible to insert a disk with teeth on a tree into a grinder.

Making cuts when dismantling an old wooden window frame

Then, in parts, we take it out with a crowbar, a puncher with a “shovel” nozzle or other improvised tools.

Dismantling an old wooden frame with a puncher and scrap

Sometimes a wooden frame is left if it is in good condition. But it is better to dismantle it and attach it to the wall material. Then the size of the light window will be larger, and the fastening will be more reliable than to wood, and the wooden frame will not rot over time.

1. We dismantle the old window sill. If it is wooden, then we act with it in the same way as with a wooden frame: we make a cut and take it out in parts with a crowbar. If it is concrete, then we break it with a jackhammer, if there is such a tool, if not, then with a hammer and a crowbar or, again, a grinder with a circle on concrete. If your window sills are concrete, in good condition, and they suit you, then you can leave them. But it is important to remember that the plastic window sill is "warmer". Also, if you leave the old window sill, then there is almost always a large gap between it and the window frame, and even if it is sealed with a mixture using a mesh, then cracks are inevitable. The way out, in this case, is one - to seal the window sill on top with tiles.
2. We clean the window opening from debris and dust.

Preparing a plastic window for installation

If the window is openable (not blind), then during installation, the window must be in the closed position. This is very important, because if the window is open, for example, for ventilation, then the foam with which we will later fill the space between the frame and the window opening will bend the frame in a semicircle. In the closed position, the window must be at least 12 hours after foaming. Then you can open. In order for the window to be definitely closed, it is advisable not to install the handle until the window is installed. Otherwise, one of your household members will be able to unknowingly open the window when you leave for a couple of minutes. If there is no handle, then there will simply be nothing to worry about.

Do not remove the protective tape from the window surface until the end of the window installation process, and if you finish the slopes, then until the finishing work is completed.

Installing a plastic window

1. We apply markings on the window frame in the places of subsequent fastening. Fastening is carried out from all 4 sides of the window frame every 70 cm. Sometimes they are fastened less often, but we do not recommend more than 100 cm. The indentation of the extreme fastener from the corner of the window frame is usually done in the range of 5-15 cm.The only thing is that you can not attach the frame from below if you have a window with a support profile.

Scheme and photo of the appearance of the stand profile

1. We fasten fasteners to the window frame. Fasteners are attached to the window frame in such a way that the self-tapping screw is fixed in the metal located inside the frame (metal bent channel). For this, it is better to take special self-tapping screws - for metal (diameter 4 mm). They come immediately with a drill on the end. If you use ordinary screws, then first you need to make a hole in the frame with a drill with a diameter of 4 mm (4-5 cm long), and only then you can fix the fastener using a conventional self-tapping screw with a diameter of 5 mm.If the windows are large (2x2 m or more), then the drill is 8 mm in diameter, and the self-tapping screw is 12 mm in diameter.Special anchor plates can be used as fasteners. Sometimes they are also attached to U-shaped drywall hangers.

Fasteners for mounting a window in a window opening

But their cost is approximately the same - from $ 0.05 (when buying in bulk) to $ 0.15, and the thickness of the metal, at the same time, is often different: the anchor plate usually comes in a thickness of 1.1-1.5 mm, and the U-shaped suspension from 0.5 to 1 mm. The thicker the metal, the better.

Fasteners for a plastic window, made of U-shaped suspensions

1. We make recesses in the window opening in the places where the fasteners will be attached. To do this, we insert the frame with fasteners already fixed to its surface into the window opening. In those places where the fasteners will be attached to the opening, we knock out recesses according to the size of the fastener and to a depth of 2-4 cm (to the wall - brick or stone). We will drown the fasteners in them. We do this so that later it will be easier to finish the slopes. No need to throw an extra layer of plaster to hide the fasteners.

Recesses knocked out in the window opening for fasteners

Important: if you have a window without a mounting plate, then inserting it into the opening, you need to raise it to the height of the window sill, so that later the window sill can be brought under the frame, and not fastened to the joint with the window frame. To do this, place blocks of wood, pieces of foam or bricks under the frame. If the window is with a mounting plate, then this is not necessary. The mounting plate just raises the window frame to the height of the window sill. It is not necessary to fasten the mounting plate to the frame, it is usually supplied already fixed.

1. Set the window to level. To do this, in the right places we put under the frame, for example, wooden wedges (bars of the right size). The wedges are always located strictly under the transverse parts of the frame: under the horizontal part along the vertical line, and vice versa. We expose the wedges in the following sequence: First, the bottom two, which will set the lower edge and, accordingly, the upper one into the horizon.At this stage, it is convenient to temporarily fix the top anchor plate so that the window does not dangle. Then two on top, which will secure the frame up and down. And only then, the remaining wedges to the left and right, and always on both sides and from the bottom and top of the window. If there is an impost, then it is also necessary to wedge it, and it is also necessary to control that all vertical posts stand in the same plane. The installation of wedges takes the longest time in the installation. As a result, the frame should be set exactly both vertically and horizontally. This work is easier to do together: one holds the window, the other puts wedges under the frame.

Installing a window by level

1. Fasten the window to the window opening. After the window is perfectly aligned with us, we can finally fix it in the window opening. Windows are usually fixed with dowels, sometimes with anchors. Anchoring is considered more durable, but also more expensive. So here the choice is yours. I will say one thing - a dowel hammered into concrete can withstand a load of 60 kilograms. So in this case, as for me, it is more than enough. Dowels are used with a diameter of 6-8 mm, a length of 75-80 mm. For fastening to wall materials such as hollow brick, shell rock and foam concrete, anchors with a diameter of 6-8 mm are used. For fastening to a tree - self-tapping screws with a diameter of 8 mm.

1. We fix the ebb (it can also be mounted at the very end). It is advisable to install the ebb under the window to prevent water seepage at the junction of the ebb with the window frame. But if it is not possible to fix the ebb under the frame, then we attach the ebb to the window frame with self-tapping screws for metal with a diameter of 4 mm, a length of 9 mm.
2. Pre-adjust window fittings. Windows are adjusted using hexagons in the area of ​​​​window hinges. As a result, the sash should open and close freely without touching the rest of the window. Plus, if you open the sash, then it should not close itself (as it usually happens with the refrigerator door) or open, but should remain in the position in which you left it. Sometimes a window, when closing / opening, can strike at the places where the locking fittings are installed. To fix this, you just need to unscrew the screw on this element and move the element itself 0.5-1 cm higher or lower.

1. We foam the gaps between the frame and the window opening.

Filling the space between the frame and the window opening with building foam

It is very important here that the filling be 100%, without voids and interruptions. At the same time, if the gap between the window and the opening is more than 2 cm, then it is desirable to foam several times with a break of 1-2 hours. Then the expansion of the foam is not a "disastrous" factor. And saves foam that would have to be cut off. If windows are installed at a temperature lower than +5 degrees, then winter or all-season mounting foam should be used. If the temperature is above + 5 degrees, then the usual summer polyurethane foam will do.

After the foam hardens, it must be covered from ultraviolet radiation. Since this can already be called part of the slope finishing work, this work can be postponed until the slope finishing. But if you do not plan to finish them at all, or, if you plan, but later than in a month, then it is better to close the foam immediately, since under the open rays of the sun the foam will become unusable. We close it either with a strong cement-sand mortar (cement: sand - 1: 2), or with tile glue (for example, Ceresit SM 11), or with a special tape PSUL(vapor-permeable self-expanding sealing tape). The only thing is that the tape is quite expensive (about $3 per m.p.), so the first two options are used more often.

Window sill installation

1. Usually window sills come in standard lengths and widths, i.e. with a margin in length and width. So it needs to be trimmed first. To do this, you can use an electric jigsaw, grinder, saw with small teeth.

Trimming the window sill to the desired level

1. Then we move the window sill to the stand profile (it should be). Then we set the window sill to a level, placing wooden blocks, pieces of eps, bricks or even laminate trimmings under it.

Installing a window sill by level

It is better to install the plugs so that they go into the wall. And it is advisable to stick them with super glue, since acrylic and silicone do not stick them.

As a result, your window sill should be level in two horizontal directions and not sag anywhere (check by pressing with your hand). Sometimes the window sill is installed with a slight slope "from the window". This is done so that the condensate that may form on the window does not flow under the window. And if you do such a slope, then it is very small, only about 3 degrees.

Loading a plastic window sill with a heavy object

If the window sill is not loaded, then the foam will bend it up.

Blowing construction foam cavity under a plastic window sill

1. 24 hours after foaming, the remaining foam protruding from the cavity under the windowsill is cut off with an ordinary clerical knife.

1. Sometimes, due to the unevenness of the window sill, after its installation, a small gap remains between the top of the window sill and the window frame. It needs to be filled with silicone. Wipe off silicone residue immediately with a rag. But given that silicone sometimes blackens with time due to fungus, and spoils the appearance of the window and window sill, it is better to prevent the appearance of such a gap. This can be done by screwing Z-shaped galvanized plates to the window sill profile before installing the window sill. Having rehearsed with trimming the window sill, you can achieve a snug fit of the window sill. Also, such plates simplify the exposure of the window sill.

Z-shaped plates made of galvanized steel for setting a snug fit between the window and the frame

Final window adjustment

Now you can screw the handle to the window and remove the protective tape from its surface. If the slopes are still to be finished, then it is better to remove the protective tape after they have been finished.

The most common mistakes when installing windows

There are few of them, but all of them ultimately affect the life of the window, as well as the convenience of its operation:

• The window is mounted with glazing beads outward. Such a mistake leads to the fact that you can easily and silently enter the house by simply removing the glazing beads from the window and removing the double-glazed windows.
• The window is not level. As a result, the window does not open and close properly.
• The mounting foam is not covered with anything and left open under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. As a result, the foam becomes unusable.

Open mounting foam

• They take measurements incorrectly, or simply fix the window low, and as a result, the window sill does not fit under the window. It has to be attached to the window frame.
• The window is not fixed with anything, simply by blowing out the space between the window frame and the opening with mounting foam. If the opening is with a quarter, then this leads, at most, to the appearance of cracks on the slopes, since the “foam” mount cannot even be called a mount. Such a connection is mobile, especially over time. If the window is without a quarter, then as a result the window may simply fall out, I am personally familiar with one such example. So it's important to remember - foam is not a fastener. The window must withstand loads and without foam.

I hope that this article will help you save money on installing plastic windows in your house, as well as do this simple job correctly and without errors so that your windows serve you for a long time. If you decide to turn to the services of an installation organization, then it will be easier for you to understand what the builders do at each stage of installation, which will allow you to control the process competently.

Note: All prices are for 2011.