It is believed that log baths are the best, because the tree can breathe, due to which there is a natural regulation of humidity and temperature. But in relation to baths, these, and some other properties of wood, create quite a few problems.
There is an opinion that a log cabin costs less than the same one made of profiled timber (it is better processed than ordinary timber and has locks that reduce the risk of cracks). If you look at the cost of one cubic meter of material, then this is true. But after all, logs for the same project will need much more than timber. If you take a beam of 200 mm, then the thickness of the wall will be 200 mm, and the height of the crown will be 200 mm. And if you take logs with a diameter of 200 mm, then a groove 10-12 cm wide is selected in it. And the thickness of the wall at the junction of two logs will be these 10-12 cm. And the height of the crown will not be 200 mm, but 100-120 mm. From here comes the difference in the required volumes during the purchase. Add more laboriousness of work and it will immediately become clear why log cabins from a bar are still more often installed. If we talk about, then in it the dimensions should match to within a few millimeters. With such material, work progresses quickly: only the bowls are cut (most often with a chain saw), the insulation is laid and a new crown is placed.
When erecting a log house, a longitudinal groove is cut in a log in order to “join” it with another
Another important fact: it is easier to work with a bar. Especially with profiled. He has absolutely same sizes(if made qualitatively) and develops one with the other without problems. And with a log, if it is not rounded, fuss is more than enough.
Log processing
First of all, you need to know that a log house made of logs or timber (except glued) must be settled under the roof for at least 8 of the driest months. More often they put a bath in December, Finishing work start in August. But only if these are really dry months and they are in a hurry to start a bathhouse. If there is no hurry, it is better to wait one and a half to two years.
Work and at the time of drying will be enough. After installation, the logs must be treated with solvent-based antiseptics. For example, Tikkuril has, Teknos has Woodex Base. They will protect the wood from fungi and blueing. The ends of the logs, so that they are not torn apart during drying, are smeared with another composition from the same Teknos or its analogue.
After the wood dries, the log is sanded, removing the bacterial treatment. This operation opens the pores of the wood, allowing it to be painted over with high quality. For coloring the log house, oil-wax is used more often. These funds also include coloring pigment which gives color to the wood. Because apart from protective properties also perform a decorative function.
Crack sealing
It's no secret that even in a well-made log house there will be gaps: it is impossible to cut down the bowl so that it perfectly repeats the shape of the log. Still, some gaps remain. Moreover, in the process of shrinkage, they increase, and cracks appear and deepen.
All these cracks close up - caulk. Use for this tool, similar to a small flat spatula and a hammer. Moss or tow is placed in the cracks. Tow is filled with caulk into the slot, compacting by tapping on the handle.
If the frame was assembled on moss (dried moss is laid out between the crowns for compaction), then its ends hang from the cracks. To prevent birds from stealing it, it is tucked inside immediately after installation. It is not necessary to strongly compact and zealous. The task of this processing is only to remove the hanging ends. Caulking itself is carried out later - after six to seven months.
If the log house is placed on a jute tape or tow, the first caulking is carried out after the initial shrinkage of the log house - after six months. After that, you can install windows and doors in the log house. A secondary caulk will be needed in about a year. It usually requires less time and materials than the first time.
In general, as they say, a log house "leads" all his life. Therefore, periodically it needs to be inspected and the gaps sealed. In addition to the fact that the old ones are getting wider, the tow is taken away to the bird's nests. You have to periodically update the finish. But this is in the event that the log house is not finished with anything on the outside.
Features of construction and operation
There are quite a few problems for owners. wooden baths and during operation: high humidity stimulates the development of various sores and fungi. Treat wood with some potent chemicals few agree: at the same time, you can work on yourself. Therefore, even during construction, it is necessary to take all possible measures to ensure good ventilation:
In addition, after each visit to the bath, it is necessary to create conditions for drying the entire room. It is not difficult to do this: after soaring, throw a bunch of firewood into the stove and open the windows and doors. Extra warmth together with a draft, it will dry the bath well.
There is a wooden bath and another enemy: woodworms. If in the washing and rest room the lining is most often treated from these pests with impregnations, then in the steam room they prefer to put it “as is”. If steamed at temperatures above 60°C, the larvae do not survive and there are no problems. But the Russian steam room provides for temperatures below this threshold. Then, if you notice traces of woodworms in the sheathing or on the shelf, you need to fry them. Heat the bath “dry”, and raise the temperature to at least 80-90 ° C and hold it for at least an hour or two. It is necessary to ensure that the inside of the wood is warmer than 60°C. Then there is a chance to get rid of both adults and larvae without harming the wood.
If the problems are still local - there are few places where the larvae come out, you can get by with little blood: warm up the places of damage. This can be done using building hair dryer. Just do not set a high temperature - no higher than 150 ° C - even without charring, the wood can get a thermal burn, and then it will quickly collapse. And you won't understand why. So, set the temperature and warm up the exit points of the beetles (holes) and the surrounding areas.
Bath preparation time
The features and complexity of construction are not all the "pitfalls". Baths made of logs (and timber too) need to be heated longer than aerated concrete. The point is the high heat capacity of wood. Until it warms up, the air will not start to heat up. But the radiant heat emanating from the heated walls is much more pleasant in sensations and is better perceived by our body, warming it to a greater depth.
But the fact remains: to prepare a steam room in wooden bath it will take more time and firewood (ceteris paribus). If we talk about the bath from the log in which it stands, then the preparation time generally takes at least 3-5 hours. Sometimes more, sometimes less - depends on the wood, design and power of the stove. Moreover, in order for the temperature background to even out, several more hours must pass after the desired degree of heating is reached. The owners of such baths even have a special term: the bath stands. The total preparation time is 6-8 hours. Few of the townspeople have such a supply of time (and patience).
One point: in such baths there is usually no special insulation of the walls of the steam room. The ceiling can still be insulated, and even then, rather folk methods- clay, sawdust, expanded clay. To warm up such a steam room metal oven it must be taken with a good margin of power. But then it's hard to keep the temperature within the limits of the Russian bath conditions - at the level of 50-60°C.
When building independently bath room various building materials are used. Their choice is usually based on own desire, which does not run counter to the available material resources. The most popular building materials for construction are brick and concrete.
AT recent times most resort to the use of cinder blocks. But the priority for the construction of a real Russian bath has always been wood beams or logs. They have long been famous for the production of substances useful for the body, which are mixed with steam. Making a log cabin with your own hands is a task that almost everyone can do. After all, it is much easier to build a bathhouse from wooden beams than from any other building materials.
Self-construction of a wooden bath
Materials, tools and accessories that will be needed to build a bath:
- logs from various breeds trees;
- protective mixtures for processing bars (antiseptics);
- boards, concrete mortar, crushed stone and reinforcement for the foundation;
- wooden dowels or iron pins for connecting bars;
- hydro- and heat-insulating materials;
- bitumen, roofing material and slate;
- extended set of carpentry tools.
First you need to decide what kind of building material will be taken as the basis of the structure. Simple and rounded logs will require more experience when building a bath. Make a competent log house from wooden beam can not even the most experienced builder. In this case, it is enough to follow the instructions that are described below. In this case, you do not even need the help of a qualified specialist.
Selection and sorting of wood
Before construction work first of all, you should pick up high quality wood, because the durability of the room depends on it, not to mention the ease of its maintenance. But the choice of a good building material does not guarantee proper quality, because it must be properly processed and prepared for operation.
If you decide to make a log house from logs, it is advisable to get them in winter period. It is not recommended to use young wood. In addition, after cutting down a tree, it is best to let it dry for 30-40 days. Logs should lie down exactly in the form in which they were cut down. It is necessary to start processing after the expiration of the period that was allotted for drying the logs.
Independent production of bars will require careful processing of logs. First of all, you need to do complete cleaning from the bark. In order to avoid cracks that can form during the removal of the bark, it is necessary to leave strips at both ends of the log with a width of 15 cm.
Wood storage has some nuances that must be considered:
- logs should be located at a height of 20 cm from the ground;
- wood must be stacked in bundles or stacks;
- the interval between the logs should be at least 5 cm.
An important process is the selection of logs for the manufacture of a log house.
During sorting, you need to leave only high-quality wood, along the way, rejecting fragile and unreliable logs.
Inspect the prepared building material for damage and cracks. If a bath house is built from such logs, it can collapse even at the construction stage, not to mention wear and tear during further operation.
Pay attention to small spots of a dark blue hue. Their presence indicates the beginning of the process of decay from the inside, which is caused by fungal invasion. You should not take risks and use such logs, it is best to set them aside for the firebox of a sauna stove.
The same should be done with wood that has been eaten from the inside by insects. It will be necessary to ensure that the affected and quality logs were away from each other, otherwise the infection can spread and damage suitable building materials.
The bath frame used for the construction of the premises must have a smooth and uniform surface. This will save you from problems when laying logs in the process of building a structure. You should not immediately mix them with firewood, since such logs are still useful for making small parts for door and window openings as well as for floors and ceilings.
In the process of building a bathhouse importance It also has a type of trees that is used as a building material. The lower level is best laid predominantly from larch, while subsequent levels can be laid from cedar, pine and spruce logs. This is due to the increased resistance of larch to natural impact, it is more durable and tends to harden with the passage of time.
The walls of the bath are more protected from earth moisture, but they require increased thermal insulation properties, That's why coniferous type trees is the best choice for their construction. In addition, they release substances useful for the human body, being well saturated with steam.
Foundation of the building
The main convenience of building a room for a bath is laying the bars directly on the foundation. This greatly simplifies and shortens the construction time.
There are 2 methods of laying the foundation for the log cabin of the bath: tape and columnar.
The tape method involves the arrangement of formwork along the edges of the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe proposed building, which is then poured concrete mortar. The foundation level must be at least 0.5 m from the ground. This will help protect the lower level of the log house from moisture and decay in the future.
The inner area of the base is filled with crushed stone or sand in the form of small ribbons. The laying of the lower level of the bars can be carried out only after the concrete mortar has completely hardened, that is, after 15-20 days.
The column method is more common. In this case, at the corners and edges of the square are erected supporting pillars on a brick base. The same poles must be equipped indoors, namely in places where they will be bearing walls. The interval between the posts must be at least 150 cm. In some situations, you can expand it to 200 cm, but no more. All support posts must be reinforced with concrete mortar at the base.
Regardless of the method of laying the foundation, it will need to be strengthened with reinforcement, which increases the reliability and stability of the lower level of the log house.
The main element of ensuring the durability of the structure is waterproofing. For this reason, it is necessary to lay waterproofing material in 2 layers. It is located between the base of the building and the lower level of the log house. First of all, the foundation must be covered with liquid bitumen, on which roofing material is laid. As soon as the structure hardens, this procedure must be repeated.
Laying the lower level of the log house
The laying of the first level of beams is carried out along the entire perimeter of the foundation base. First of all, you need to equip the base with slats that have been pre-treated with protective mixtures. Their thickness should be no more than 1.5 cm, they are placed at intervals of 25-30 cm.
Reiki provide reliable protection from moisture and decay of the lower level of the log house, increasing the durability of the structure. The empty cavity between the rails is filled with heat-insulating material.
The main factor in laying the lower level of the log house is the almost perfect uniformity of building materials, so you should choose the most flat bars. Otherwise, the further construction of the structure can cause many undesirable problems that will require extra costs time and effort to correct them. Uniformity should be measured with a building level, assessing the suitability of the bars by eye is unacceptable.
For the lower level, it is necessary to make bars, taking into account the fact that they will be used as support ones, that is, during processing, it will be necessary to select the thickest and most durable ones. The generally accepted size of the log house for the lower level is 20 cm in diameter. The remaining bars must have a diameter of at least 15 cm. The length is selected based on the estimated area of \u200b\u200bthe room, while all the bars must have the same size.
The log cabin of the bath should not be laid too tightly, since in the future the bars will settle and compact naturally. There is no need to fix the main level at all. With the passage of time, it will thicken under high pressure bars of the upper level. This also makes it possible to update the lower level without forcibly dismantling the outer walls.
At the corner points of the connection of the bars, it is necessary to make special cuts, which are designed to ensure the reliability of the structure. This process will require accurate measurements, which are considered at the stage of processing logs. Properly making cuts, you need to connect the bars in single structure and fill the remaining cavity heat-insulating material between the foundation and the lower level.
The main level of the log house must necessarily be treated with protective mixtures from all sides, especially in places that are adjacent to the foundation. In addition to protective mixtures, it is recommended to apply slightly thickened technical oil to the bars.
After laying the lower level, you can proceed to the arrangement of the upper rows.
How to correctly make cuts?
There are a number of methods for strengthening the bars at the ends, but the most popular and in a simple way is notch cutting.
Logs with excess length mean cutting cuts in these places. There are 2 types of cuts: one-sided and two-sided. The 1st type is made according to the principle of cutting an ordinary bowl into half a tree, and the 2nd type is due to cutting cuts different size at both ends, that is, in a fat tail or in an okhryap.
In the absence of excess, corner cuts are made in the main part of the bars. In this case, you can choose the type of reinforcement without the presence of plug-in elements (in the paw or in the spike). If the connection still implies their presence, then you need to use the half-tree method on the plug-in spike. The simplest cutting method is the paw method, which will require less time and effort from the builder to arrange cuts.
Having chosen the most suitable method of corner fastening, you need to accurately measure all the logs, on the basis of which the template for the cuts will be created. After that, you can start processing the bars. First of all, it is necessary to make transverse cuts for half the diameter of the bars. Following this, you can cut out the longitudinal bevels. It should be borne in mind that it is much more difficult to process larch logs, since this species has a high density.
Construction of the upper levels of the log house
The walls of the bath room are built in a certain sequence. The bars are placed, trimmed with building level and strengthened at the ends. The role of fasteners is played by special dowels made of wood or iron pins, which must be hammered into the openings reserved for them. The size of the openings must match the diameter of the fasteners.
The interval between the openings should be 1-1.5 m. The bars should be drilled through and up to half of the underlying log. Then you need to set aside the upper beam and hammer into the opening of the lower pin, the length of which is equal to the height level of 2 logs. Before placing the top beam, you will need to lay thermal insulation.
This method is used for laying all other rows, while the top 2 rows do not need to be strengthened. In the future, the upper bars will need to be removed to equip the ceiling.
During the design of the bath, it is necessary to take into account the placement of windows and doors. During the construction of the building, gaps are left in the marked places small size, which are subsequently cut out, forming openings of the required size.
Upon completion of the construction of the bath log house, it is necessary to prepare the building for a settling period, which lasts about 6 months. To do this, you need to lay boards 4-5 cm thick on the upper rows of the log house, which are covered with slate.
Wood being environmentally friendly pure material, not only effectively retains heat, but also gives the air in the room a special aroma.
To build a wooden one, you must first prepare a beam.
Stage 1. Preparation of round timber
Attention! To determine the quality of logs (you can refuse low-grade sawlogs at any time), you need to know about ideal conditions blanks, which we will consider below.
Round timber must be harvested at sub-zero temperature, that is, in winter. It is at this time that the amount of moisture in the wood is minimized, therefore, during drying, the material will deform and crack less.
In order to ensure the durability of the log house, certain sections of logs are used during construction (the so-called butt logs). These sections start from the rhizome and end at the crown. Such butt logs are denser (which compares favorably with the tops) and there are practically no knots in them. Also, the selection criteria include the round shape and the degree of curvature of the trunk. In both cases, a marriage is an error exceeding 1 cm per linear meter.
Attention! If the length, for example, is 5 m, and the error exceeds 5 cm, then the log can be safely rejected.
The same applies to the diameter. For example, the diameter of the base of a log is 35 cm, while the tops are 25 cm or less. Such round timber is categorically not recommended for use in construction.
Finally, pay attention to the type of wood. Ideally for a bath should be used conifers trees (spruce, larch, etc.). Larch is characterized by resistance to moisture, although in extreme cases, you can resort to a combination of "pine-spruce", in which the first few crowns are erected from pine. And if only spruce is used in construction, then the material must be treated several times with an antiseptic.
Perform further actions in accordance with the previously drawn up project. This can be done by yourself, found on the Internet or ordered from specialists. It is with the help of this document that you can calculate the required amount of consumables, determine the area and shape of the base.
Stage 2. Processing of timber
Step 1. After you have brought consumable(or you cut it down and delivered it yourself), it needs 25-30 days to rest.
Step 3. Then start processing. First, remove the bark from the logs (do this carefully so that they do not crack), leaving it a little on the sides - about a 15-centimeter strip on each side.
Step 4. After processing, store the logs about 25 cm from the ground. You can stack as you like - in stacks, bundles, etc., the main thing is that the distance between the logs is 7-10 cm.
Video - Preparation of logs
Stage 3. Construction of the foundation
Let's make a reservation right away that massive monolithic ones can be abandoned due to their low weight. future design. In order to save money, you can resort to one of two possible lightweight designs, namely:
- strip foundation;
- columnar.
Let's consider each of the options.
To build such a foundation around the entire perimeter, as well as under future walls, dig a trench 40 cm wide and 50 cm deep, lay a “pillow” of sand and gravel on the bottom. Next, lay the reinforcement, build a formwork 50 cm high and pour the concrete solution. As a result, the height will be approximately 1 m.
Attention! A more specific height depends on the depth of soil freezing in a particular region.
Video - Foundation pouring
Inside the perimeter, pour strips of sand and gravel. In the future, the strips can be filled with concrete or built on top of them. wooden floor. The choice of one or another option depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities.
Column type foundation
If necessary, erect supports. There are two options here:
- brick;
- from asbestos pipes.
Place the supports at the corners of the perimeter, as well as under all walls in 1.5 m increments. Under each support, pre-lay a concrete "cushion". In each support, fix several reinforcement bars so that the latter protrude at least 30 cm above the surface.
Build a formwork 40 cm high, lay the reinforcement in it and tie it with the rods protruding from the supports. Fill with concrete. After four to five weeks, when the concrete is completely dry, you can proceed to further work.
Stage 4. Base waterproofing
Treat the surface of the foundation with melted and lay a layer of roofing material on top. After the bitumen has completely dried, repeat the procedure. As a result, you will have a reliable two-layer.
Stage 5. Preparation of tools
To work, you will need the following equipment:
The last tool - the "line" - will be given Special attention. For the manufacture will require steel wire with sharply sharpened ends. Bend the wire in half so that it takes the form of a compass, you can additionally fasten the handle. This tool will be required when marking logs.
Stage 6. Construction of a log cabin
There are several assembly technologies:
The first option - Russian felling - is the easiest to perform, even an inexperienced carpenter can handle it. Therefore, we will consider this technology.
Step 1. The construction of the log house should be carried out in stages and begin with the crown crown (in other words, from the first). Logs, which will serve as a crown crown, otteshete on the edge for the most snug fit to the foundation.
Step 2 Lay the first pair of logs on top of the waterproofing layer. Lay the next pair at an angle of 90ᵒ relative to the first and connect everything into a “cup”.
Attention! "Cup" is the most simple option connections at construction of a felling of buildings. It is carried out quite simply: at the bottom of the log, the boundaries of the future “cup” are measured, then with the help of the “line” a recess is marked. After re-checking the dimensions, the recess is carefully cut down with an ax.
You can use a chainsaw - it will save a lot of time. Although the final finishing of the “cups” will still have to be done with an ax.
Attention! In the starting crown, the "cups" will not be deep, as a result of which the logs will not come into contact with the base. Therefore, in the gap that appears, lay a lining - a small piece of board of the required thickness, treated with an antiseptic and covered with insulation.
Step 3. Next, lay the second crown, using the thickest possible logs. This is due to the fact that in the future you will cut sexual lags into them. For the purpose of a snug fit, make a longitudinal groove in the upper log, which would be equal to a third of the diameter of the previous log. To draw the boundaries of the groove, lay the upper log on the lower one and mark it with a “line”.
Attention! The longitudinal groove can be semicircular and triangular. If you have a chainsaw available, then you can handle the triangular groove in two to three minutes. But remember: logs with a similar groove will not connect tightly, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of the walls.
Obviously, the best option is a semicircular groove. Do it with a chainsaw, use a chisel to remove residues.
Step 4. Insulate the log joints, preferably with linen jute. Lay one piece of canvas on the lower crown, seal the longitudinal groove with the second (especially if the latter has a triangular shape).
Step 5. Connect the crowns to each other. Here you can use:
- square dowels;
- round dowels made of wood.
The second method is preferable, because the dowels can be purchased ready-made and make holes with an electric drill.
Make holes in increments of 1-1.5 m, simultaneously flashing a pair of upper crowns completely and not completely - the third (from below). To avoid skew at the end of shrinkage, sink the dowels into top crown at least 6-7 cm.
Step 6. Raising the Walls desired height lay on top of them ceiling beams and rafters. If wet wood was used, then lay sheets of slate instead of rafters and wait for the structure to shrink. Usually, it is enough to spend the winter once, but ideally, shrinkage should last a year and a half.
In the spring, when the shrinkage is completed, proceed to the caulking.
Video - Aspen shingle roof
Stage 7. Door, window openings
We specifically started talking about openings after construction was completed, since there are two options for their arrangement.
Stage 8. Caulking logs
At the end of the shrinkage, the caulking of the log house is performed. To do this, prepare the following equipment:
- a hammer;
- caulking (wood or metal).
Attention! If you compacted the interventional space with tow or moss, then you can skip this step, since you most likely will not need a caulk. But if you find even the slightest cracks, then the procedure is still better to perform.
Start work only after the insulation has completely dried. First, twist the material (tow or moss) into a bundle, then hammer between the crowns with a hammer and caulk.
You can use tape jute - in this case, the material is simply fixed with nails or a mounting stapler.
Video - Log Caulking
Stage 9. Roof
As soon as the tree shrinks, you can start building. If you do this earlier, then the roof will simply lead.
Step 1. Lay on the wall trim wooden beams(We have already talked about this).
Step 2. Fix the beams and attach the rafter legs to them in 1 m increments. In the ridge part, cut the rafters at an appropriate angle for connection.
Step 3: Nail to rafter legs solid boardwalk(if you plan to use rolled roofing material) or make a crate (if you use slate, tiles, etc.).
Step 4. Install roofing according to the instructions for the specific material.
Step 5. Cover the ridge with galvanized sheet steel to protect it from aggressive environmental influences.
Step 6 Sew up the gables of the roof with siding or clapboard.
An example of a log house with a shingle roof 
- Sometimes, during assembly, it becomes necessary to join the logs. In this case, do not allow the joints to be located on top of each other. Moreover, in lower crown connections are not allowed.
- When laying a log house on a finished foundation, you can collect logs even before drying, laying a sealant between them.
- It is advisable to equip windows after shrinkage, because otherwise they may warp.
Now you know how to builddo-it-yourself log cabin.
A wooden house is an aesthetic, environmentally friendly and safe housing, which is distinguished by high heat and soundproof properties, durability and reliability. Many are interested in whether it is possible to assemble and install a log house with your own hands. It is possible to do this, but it is difficult. When installing, it is important to take into account a lot of factors, including the quality of the log, lumber calculations and the layout of the house, installation features, etc.
Please note that poor quality materials and assembly errors will reduce operational properties and the service life of the house, will lead to the appearance of rot and mold in the structure, skewed walls and many other equally serious problems. But if you decide to independent construction country house or baths, this article will tell you how to make a log house.
Design and material selection
Assembling a log house with your own hands begins with designing a house, taking into account the features land plot, future engineering systems and room design. layout log house it can be rectangular or square, as well as figured in the form of a semicircle, hexagon, etc. Of course, the construction of the first option will be much easier.
After creating the project and calculating the estimate, lumber is carefully selected. round logs - best option for those who want to assemble a log house and build a house on their own.
Such logs are characterized by smooth and Smooth surface, the same dimensions and diameters. This will make installation quick and easy. In addition, logs that fit snugly together will provide good thermal insulation. Due to the aesthetics and naturalness of materials, a house made of roundwood fit harmoniously into environment. wooden structure will look elegant and original. Read more about the benefits of a log house.
To get a reliable and durable house, you need to use only high-quality logs. It is desirable that the lumber be from forest regions and special treatment. In the MariSrub company, logging takes place in the Kirov region, the republics of Mari El and Komi. These regions are famous for good, large and damp-resistant wood.
Raw materials and logs are carefully selected and processed in the company's own workshop. Wood is impregnated and treated protective equipment from the negative effects of moisture and insects. Such materials will last longer, keep original view and properties.
Choose logs harvested from the winter forest. Since such wood is stronger and more resistant to moisture. On sawn timber, small diameter knots and a small natural marriage are allowed. Trunks quality materials characterizes yellow or dark yellow colors. These should be unrolled logs of the same diameter and the same tree species. The surface should not be mechanical damage, rot and wormholes.
How to tie a log
After the materials are selected, and the foundation for the wooden house is installed, they begin to assemble the log house. There are two main types of lashing or ligation of logs. This is “in the bowl” and “in the paw”. Both methods characterize the stability and strength of the structure of the future home, and they differ in the creation of grooves.
Cutting “into a bowl” or “into an oblo” is a traditional Russian method of assembling a log house. He assumes that the corners of the structure are connected to the release of the ends with a length of two log diameters. Because of this, the cost of lumber increases. The construction of such a house will cost more, but at the same time the heat inside will remain for a long time. In addition, the corners of the building will not be subjected to negative impact wind and precipitation.
The “paw” method assumes that the logs are stacked in a bracket, aligned along the outer edge and the excess is cut off from the inside. This is a colder room, therefore, for insulation, the ends are closed with boards. This is also necessary in order to protect the sawn wood from decay. Please note that the log house “in the paw” needs to be cut inside.
Bandaging logs “in the paw” is more modern and aesthetic appearance and less wood wasted. But to create a warm and durable home, it will take a lot of additional work. Therefore, such cutting will become a laborious process.
Log installation technology
- Waterproofing is laid on the horizontal surface of the poured foundation. Roofing material is suitable as a material. For laying, the foundation is lubricated with heated and ruberoid sheets are applied on top. After drying, make another layer;
- At least 5 centimeters thick boards are stolen onto the waterproofing layer, and a layer of tow or jute is laid on top of the boards. This will enhance the thermal insulation properties, because up to 40% of heat escapes through the floor and foundation!;
- A log house is installed on the insulation layer. As a rule, production logs are numbered. Such a wall kit is easy to assemble according to the attached scheme;
- Lay the crowns strictly according to the level row by row and fasten with dowels. Make sure the logs lie flat!;
- A layer of insulation is also placed on each laid crown, also in the form of tow or jute. The insulation is fixed with a construction stapler;
- In addition to ligation at the corners, the logs are connected every meter of length with spikes. Additional fastening will make the structure stable.
The final stage
After assembly, the log house is left for 0.5-1.5 years to shrink, while it is better to close the building plastic wrap for waterproofing. During this period, you can sew up the floors and install rafters for the future roof. The floors are sewn up using boards with a thickness of 60 mm or more, which are laid on beams. Boards are connected with spikes. The ceiling can be laid in the same way.
After the installation of the roof, they proceed to finishing work. First of all, it is the insulation of the floor, ceiling and walls. Don't forget about engineering systems, including electricity and plumbing, ventilation and sewerage. These communications must be carried out before interior decoration. At the same time, the location and installation of these systems is calculated at the design stage of the house!
Log house installation and construction wooden house do-it-yourself is a complex and time-consuming process that requires knowledge and skills. Wrong sequence and technology of work, poor-quality materials and lack of experience will lead to serious problems. Therefore, it is better to entrust the work to professionals!
The masters of the MariSrub company will build a wooden house, cottage or turnkey bath! We offer services for the creation of your dream home project, assembly and installation log cabin, installation of the foundation and roof, arrangement of communications and finishing buildings. At the disposal of the company own workshop for the production of rounded and chopped logs. Self-production— a guarantee of careful quality control and low prices!
Refusing the services of professionals in the field of wooden housing construction in terms of professional drafting of drawings, whether it is a diagram of a log cabin or a residential building, an ignorant customer does not understand how this can turn against him. The lesser of the evils will be the stretching of construction for years due to constant alterations. Worst - even scary to imagine.
Why can this happen? All because of the elementary inability to read the drawings and working diagrams that are provided to the customer complete with a finished log house. What is it - let's take a closer look.
The essence of the working scheme
The drawing that the customer shows to the representative of the material manufacturing company is also similar to the drawing, like a fly to an elephant. Rather, it will be a sketch of your own dream - here do this, and there that. The scheme of the log house, or rather, the drawing, has little in common with these scribbles. Why?
- Firstly, the scale of each element and the structure as a whole is indicated on a professional drawing. Few of the owners know such features, hence the alteration of inconsistencies.
- Secondly, the scheme of the log house is written in one language - in numbers and proportions that are understandable even to foreigners. Given that they have flooded the construction industry.
- Further, the drawing has clear measuring lines, each of which indicates the size of one or another corner of the house or bath.
- All dimensions on paper are in millimeters. It is important! There were cases of a real decrease or increase, slow-witted home-grown masters.
- Special callouts in such a drawing as a diagram of a log house from a bar, and for another structure, height marks are placed relative to something - a foundation, soil or basic level, if present.
- As for the construction of the house itself, the paper clearly indicates the departments of wood and glass, as well as concrete or brick, if it is included in the construction.
- The drawing cannot but contain designations of interior decoration, as well as indications of the height of ceilings, window and door openings.
- The scheme and construction plan cannot be in a single copy. Be sure to draw gables and cuts.
- Special attention is given to the truss system.
And the most important! The scheme for assembling a house from a log house is a document confirmed by a construction organization and offices that regulate permits for the installation of such a structure.
If it suddenly happens that you have to defend your innocence in court, then the project of the house and the drawings of its assembly will be the main evidence. Therefore, before refusing the services of specialists, it is worth considering whether it will end in failure.
Assembly diagram - content
Now, having agreed that the drawing is important, the customer still will not be able to understand where to start dancing, that is, building. To do this, when buying a house kit, he is given a scheme for assembling a log house, which prescribes all the stages of construction from the foundation to the truss system.
So let's take a look at them:
- The schedule of planned work on the foundation includes the designation of the soil. This will be noted by the on-site specialist even at the conclusion of the contract. This is important, since the refusal of his services and the device of his own version may result in the collapse of the building.
- This is followed by a plan for assembling the first, salary crown. Upon the arrival of the material, numbered and marked on the drawing, it will be easy to understand which logs or beams are intended for this.
By agreement, larch can be supplied as the material for the first round - it has earned universal approval as a material that practically does not interact with dampness. The diagram clearly indicates in what sequence the elements are connected.
- Now the construction of the walls itself. The assembly plan is convenient in that it resembles a designer - all the elements are carefully adjusted, this will not make the home carpenter guess and stick round into square. The work is carried out quickly only thanks to her, the scheme.
- The truss system deserves a separate discussion. It is complex both in drawing and assembly, because it is responsible in the house. It is better to discuss it at the construction site by inviting the specialist who worked on it.
Of course, for a fee, but it's worth it. You can't hope for anything. Also, the assembly guide will offer recommended fasteners, because no screws and nails can act as such.
Here are the main aspects of the content of diagrams and drawings. For some, this will be just a set of papers, but it’s worth understanding at least one of them in order to understand how to build own house. Besides, it's interesting.
Possible reading errors
Here are common mistakes in reading drawings of a finished log house or house kit:
- Forget about the scale or misunderstand its meaning. In order not to doubt, it is worth measuring the element to its natural size and note for yourself on paper what size it is indicated on the drawing.
- It is better to do it in color, then the size will always be in front of your eyes. Of course, for this it is better to use a copy of the document, and the original must be stored in a separate folder.
- Something to saw or build up. Of course, there are inconsistencies, but this is such a rarity that it can hardly be called a system. It is better to contact the company's specialists and tell about the problem - they respond promptly, and either replace the beam or log, or point out the customer's oversight.
One thing can be said about what will happen if we neglect reading the drawings and diagrams - nothing good. In the end, it is in the interests of the customer to build a house for his family, without delaying installation over time and doing everything right.
If, nevertheless, a home-grown master does not heed the above advice, then it is stupid to blame the manufacturer later - they will simply wash their hands when it becomes clear that the customer does not need their services. Well, if he still does not cope with the work and decides to give everything at the mercy of specialists, then the work will rise in price. Remember this.
