Time passes, and it turns out that a private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. A decision is made to expand its area with an extension. We will tell you how to do it efficiently and at no extra cost in the article.
Save money without sacrificing quality – room requirements and materials
Poorly thought out extension design will eventually force something to be redone or completed, attached to the country house. In order not to get into such a situation, we think through all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our idea. We start with the choice of location and size.
Each type of additional room has its own specific features in connection with the use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing and others. If a decision is made to build an additional living room in the country, then this is tantamount to building a small house. It is required to reliably insulate, to prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.
Another common type of outbuildings are kitchens and bathrooms. The requirements for them are practically the same. First of all, we think about engineering communications and sum them up even before the start of construction. Sewer pipes, water pipes are much more convenient to lay before pouring the foundation than to make their way under it later. Increased attention requires waterproofing flooring. We are thinking about warming, but if the kitchen is planned for summer, then this can be saved.
Expand the house and an extension of the veranda. The structure is light, serves for summer holidays, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is carried out in many versions: from the simplest in the form of a boardwalk, low walls with a roof on pillars, to a complex one with walls, a door, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but foundation waterproofing is necessary.
An extension to the house should be in harmony with the main structure. If the house has an exterior finish, then it will not be difficult to repeat it on the attached premises. With all materials, wood is well combined, which looks great even without additional finishing. The best option would be a frame structure:
- built quickly, in just a few months;
- does not require a capital foundation, because it is light;
- without special knowledge and skills, it is available for construction with your own hands;
- will cost less.
The base for the extension is made on the same level as the foundation of the house. When attaching the structure to the house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - but leave an expansion joint. In this regard, frame structures, which do not give vertical shrinkage, compare favorably.
If the building is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is made single-pitched. We choose the slope in such a way that the snow does not linger and the rain flows down. If this is an extension to the side wall, then the roof repeats the configuration of the main one. The roofing material is the same as on the roof of the house, if different, it is important that they are combined.
Pillar base - fast, cheap, reliable
For the columnar foundation of an extension to the house, concrete, brick, or a combination of both is used. It is done mainly for a living room or a veranda. If applied to a kitchen or bathroom, thermal insulation of the input of engineering communications into the house will be required. Since protection concerns an average of half a meter of pipes, you can go for such expenses, it will still come out cheaper than a strip foundation. The floor is made of boards, for concrete you will need a lot of backfill material, a perimeter fence.
We start with the marking of the site, the installation sites of the pillars are one and a half meters from one another. A separate pit 50 × 50 cm is dug under each pillar, with a depth greater than the freezing of the soil. At the top, we expand the pits a little: about 10 cm on each side. We fill the bottom with a layer of sand of 10 cm, carefully ram, then crushed stone or broken brick, which is also rammed.
We lay out the film for waterproofing, bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build brick pillars, we pour a little concrete mortar for the base into each pit and wait for it to set. When concrete pillars are planned, we tie the reinforcement at the top along the entire height, lower it into the pits. We provide an equal distance between the walls. We put pieces of brick under the bottom to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.
We make formwork for the plinth, inside which we launch the film. Concrete is poured in layers, each layer is pierced several times with a bar so that air bubbles come out. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it seizes, then continue pouring. We carefully level the top of the column and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens. All this time, pour heavily with water, cover with burlap or film.
When the foundation has gained the desired strength, the formwork is removed. We heat up the bituminous mastic, apply it to the poles and immediately glue the pieces of roofing material for waterproofing. Between the pillars there was a space that it is desirable to fill up in order to insulate the floor. We use ordinary earth mixed with rubble or pieces of brick. We fall asleep in layers of 10 cm, we ram. The technology for erecting a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar one, it is solid.
Getting started - lower trim and extension floor
So, we settled on the frame version as the fastest and cheapest. In order for a tree to serve for a long time, it is required to adhere to two rules: make reliable waterproofing and carry out antiseptic treatment. Of course, the wood must be well dried. For waterproofing, the most reliable means is bituminous mastic. It is possible to use several layers of roofing material, but it is short-lived.
Then we make the bottom strapping. Usually a beam of 150 × 150 mm is used, but boards of 150 × 50 mm can be used. We lay them horizontally around the entire perimeter, leveling with the outer edges of the foundation. We do not connect the boards of the first row to each other. The second row is laid on top, overlapping the joints in the first.
In the boards laid in this way on the foundation, we make through holes for the studs and connect them. If it is tape, we drill and connect on the ground, and then lay it. To get the effect of a single beam, we knock it down with nails in a checkerboard pattern after 20 cm. It turns out a strapping of the desired thickness, which also has additional advantages:
- is much cheaper than bars;
- it is very easy to connect with each other, with bars it is more difficult.
We attach the lower trim to the beds from the same boards 150 × 50 mm, installed on top of the edge along the outer edge. We fasten them together and with the beds with 90 mm nails. Next, we expose the logs from a similar material installed on the edge. The distance between them is 60–80 cm, but it all depends on the size of the frame extension: the longer the logs, the already we install them. They are attached to the binding board with nails, 2 on each side.
Now let's move on to floor insulation. The cheapest, albeit not very environmentally friendly option is tiled polystyrene foam with a density of at least 15 kg / m 3. Its advantage is that it is the only one of the heaters that is not afraid of moisture. We nail 50 × 50 mm bars to the lower edges of the log, which will hold the polystyrene foam. A thickness of 15 cm is required: we use sheets of 10 and 5 cm. We lay it so that the seams of the lower and upper rows overlap.
The base is ready. We lay the subfloor on top. So that it does not warp over time, we lay it, alternating the direction of the annual rings. We look at the cut: we put one board with an arc up, the other - down. We make the final floor from plywood, the joints are apart. A rough base is not necessary in the presence of edged tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of 30 mm or plywood 15 mm. We lay directly on the lags.
Wall mounting - two assembly technologies
There are two technologies for assembling frame structures. The first is called frame-panel, when the entire assembly is carried out on the ground, then the finished structures are installed in place and fastened together. Sometimes the frame is sheathed immediately, which makes it even stronger. Another method involves gradual installation right on the spot. Which is more convenient - everyone decides for himself. The shield assembled on the ground cannot be lifted alone; helpers will be required.
We begin the construction of the frame with corner posts. For them and intermediate racks, we use a beam of 150 × 150 mm or even 100 × 100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we find out in advance. We arrange the pillars so that the gap between them is 3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation. So we will save on waste-free use of the material and improve the quality of insulation without leaving gaps.
Fastening can be simply and reliably carried out with metal corners installed on both sides of the racks and fixed with stainless screws. Before finally fixing the rack, we carefully check its verticality, this is especially important for corners. One incorrectly set beam will cause the entire extension to bend.
Temporary cuts, which are installed from the inside and serve until the outer skin is attached, help maintain the correct shape of the frame. If the sheathing is made of a hard and durable material such as plywood, OSB, GVK, it is able to independently strengthen the base, which will stand securely after removing the temporary cuttings. When soft material is planned for sheathing: siding, lining, then permanent braces cannot be dispensed with. It is better to install them two at the bottom and at the top of each rack.
In the places where windows and doors are installed, we fasten the crossbars. We make the racks next to them double: they experience increased loads and should be stronger. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by installing the upper trim. In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the bottom one: beds made of two boards fastened together and the harness itself made of the same boards installed on the edge. To it in the same way as the floor logs were attached, we nail the floor beams from the boards 150 × 50 on the edge with nails.
We constantly check the geometry of the entire structure, as well as the correct installation of racks and crossbars: the racks are strictly vertical, the crossbars are horizontal.
Shed roof - design and implementation technology
The roof of the house with an extension consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one. If the extension is built on the side, the roof will be a continuation of the main one, it remains only to repeat its design in order to lengthen it. When an attached building is located along the length, its roof is made single-pitched. The slope is provided by the difference in the height of the front and rear pillars. The height of the rear should ensure that the extension roof enters under the main canopy.
The roof is supported by rafters, which are laid on the beams. They are made of thick boards, to ensure fixation, we make special grooves. We cut them on the ground according to the template so that they are all the same. Then, after installation in place, it will not be necessary to align horizontally. We process the grooves with mastic, install and fasten to the walls with brackets, metal corners on studs. If the length exceeds 4 m, we install additional vertical supports.
We lay the crate on top of the rafters. Depending on the roofing material, we make it solid or in increments of 0.3–0.6 m. The need for a solid wooden flooring arises when soft material is used, we make a sparse one for all other types of roofing. We make fastening depending on the type of roof. We fasten profiled sheets and metal tiles with special self-tapping screws with sealing washers, ondulin - with nails with a wide hat. We provide wave overlap. Don't forget about the finishing touches: wind slats not only protect the roof, but also give it a finished look.
Warming is a mandatory operation for an extension
For the insulation of buildings, mainly mineral wool and polystyrene are used. Mineral wool resist fire, low thermal conductivity. They have a small weight, a form of release convenient for consumers: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation is foam. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, it is not afraid of fungus, moisture, decay. But there are two big drawbacks: it is very fond of rodents, it releases toxic gases in case of fire.
Warming from the inside is carried out in the following sequence:
- 1. We mount the waterproofing, having previously cut the strips of the required dimensions. We fasten with staples using a construction stapler in such a way as to ensure an overlap. We sheathe the frame completely, driving in staples every 10 cm.
- 2. We lay the insulation between the racks. We provide a snug fit to wooden structures, close the seams between the individual elements of the insulating material, overlapping the next layer.
- 3. We fix the vapor barrier, even if we use foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also the tree. Fastening is carried out similarly to waterproofing.
- 4. We sheathe the walls from the inside. We use drywall on a perfectly even frame or OSB, if there are irregularities. It is more rigid and smoothes out flaws.
Remained interior and exterior decoration, which provides room for the imagination of the owner. The frame extension is built quickly, cheaply, has been serving for decades, and it can be built with little or no outside help.
Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of people sitting, sewerage into the house, or the need to close the front door from direct cold. Therefore, there is a need for an additional room, expanding the kitchen, arranging a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.
An extension to the house with your own hands can be made of wood, brick, or in a combined version, which includes several building materials.
Requirements for premises
In order not to have to make additional changes already in the attached room, it is better to immediately think through all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.
Extra room
If you want to add another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost tantamount to building a small house. The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating provided to it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a dwelling. The second important condition for normal living is the absence of dampness in the room, which means that reliable waterproofing is needed.
Kitchen or bathroom
When arranging these premises, before installing the foundation, engineering communications are brought to the construction site - in particular, sewer pipes. You may have to separately conduct and plumbing.
In addition, it is also worth paying attention to the insulation of all elements of the structure, to think about reliable waterproofing of the floor.
Veranda
A veranda is a light structure that serves mainly to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain, or is used for summer holidays. It can be closed, have a door and one or more windows, and may be and completely open, that is, to represent a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.
This building does not require special insulation, but you still have to carry out waterproofing for the foundation.
Foundation for an extension
The foundation for an extension can be tape, lined with brick or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To stop at one of them, you need to find out how each design is arranged, and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.
Information about the construction of the foundation
Strip foundation
So, the strip foundation is arranged in the following sequence:
- First you need to mark up and trace the place where the extension will be placed. This is done with a rope that is stretched across the terrain and secured with pegs.
- Further along the markup, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of his house is built. It would be nice to fix the reinforcement connecting the foundations of the main building and the extension before pouring concrete.
- The width of the trench should be 100-150 mm more than the planned wall thickness.
- After the trench has been dug, it is further prepared. First, backfilling at the bottom of a sand cushion with a thickness of 100–120 mm is carried out. It must be carefully tamped.
- The next layer is covered with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted with a manual rammer.
- Further along the entire perimeter, waterproofing is laid in the trench, which should extend to the soil surface by 40–50 cm, since it should close not only the inner part of the foundation, but also the formwork for its above-ground part.
- A welded reinforcing structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which must repeat the shape of the foundation, and to its entire height.
- Then the reinforcement is poured with a rough concrete mortar of cement and gravel, to ⅓ of the height of the trench, and after this layer has hardened, the next one is poured - to one second of the remaining height.
Installation of formwork for strip foundation - After pouring this layer, you can start building a wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the basement. The waterproofing film is left inside the formwork, straightened along its walls and fixed on top of them so that it does not slip into concrete.
- Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that no air cavities remain inside it. You can lightly tap on the formwork - this vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.
- After completing the pouring of the foundation, the concrete is leveled to the required level and left to dry, sprayed daily with water to harden.
- After the final hardening of the concrete, the formwork is removed and the foundation is waterproofed from the outside.
- Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials. For this process, liquid rubber, tar, bituminous mastic and roofing material are used.
- The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - with a concrete screed or flooring from floor beams and a log with a wooden floor on them.
Video - building an extension to a house on a strip foundation
Column Foundation
In addition to the strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be arranged, which is built from brick or concrete, as well as a combination of these materials. Basically, this option is used for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or sanitation in an uninsulated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.
A columnar foundation is most often arranged if it is planned to mount a boardwalk.
The work is carried out in several stages:
- The first step is marking the site selected for the extension. The pillars should be at a distance of one and a half meters from each other.
- Pit pits are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500-600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. To the top of the pit should expand somewhat - by about 100 mm on each side.
Installation diagram of the foundation pillar - Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when constructing a strip foundation, using sand and gravel, waterproofing is laid.
- If the pillars will be built of brick, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to harden, they make brickwork.
- If the pillars are concrete, a reinforcing structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is allowed inside the formwork and fixed on top of it;
- Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next is poured;
- The top of the column is well leveled and sprinkled daily with water until completely solidified;
- After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they waterproofed roofing material, which is glued to heated bituminous mastic.
- In the gap remaining between the soil and the pillars, backfilling is done, tamping every 100-150 mm of the backfilled soil mixed with crushed stone.
- Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing the wooden bars that will be laid on top of the pillars.
Extension floor base device
If a strip foundation is chosen, both a wooden and a concrete floor can be arranged on it. A columnar foundation without lintels suggests a wooden floor.
Concrete floor
To make a reliable and warm floor screed inside the strip foundation, you need do work step by step, adhering to a certain technology.
- To begin with, excess soil is selected inside the finished strip foundation. It is first loosened and then removed to a depth of approximately 250-350 mm.
- At the bottom of the resulting pit, a sandy ten-centimeter pillow is poured and compacted. Crushed stone can be laid on top of it, but instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used to insulate the screed, poured in a layer of 15–20 cm.
- Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grate is laid on it. After its installation, a beacon system is arranged from above along the selected horizontal level. Some rooms, such as a bathroom or an open terrace, may also require a certain slope of the surface for unhindered flow of water that has fallen on the floor to the drainage system.
- Next, a cement mortar is laid out on the prepared surface and leveled using the rule. A day later, it can be covered with plastic wrap - then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.
When the walls of the extension are erected, any decorative coating or a wooden floor can be laid on the resulting concrete base.
Floor on wooden beams
- Floor beams are wooden bars of a sufficiently large thickness, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. You can’t save on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.
- The beams are laid on poles or strip foundations, on top of the made roofing felt substrate, and can be fixed to concrete in various ways - using through fasteners, corners and other metal devices. Between themselves, the beams at the intersections are also fastened with powerful corners.
- They will hold securely, as the wooden flooring of the "black" and "white" floor also serves as a kind of binding fastener.
Video: erection of a frame extension with a wooden floor
Construction of extension walls
Brick or frame walls can be built on a ready-made strip foundation, while a columnar one is mainly used for frame buildings. If it is planned to make brickwork on the pillars, then additional concrete jumpers between the pillars will have to be made.
Frame walls
- The frame for future walls is erected from a bar and fixed to the crown beams of the floor that were mounted earlier. The beams can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then install them in a vertical position already assembled.
- To connect the frame to the wall of the house, perfectly accurate vertical markings are made on it, along which a separate bar or assembled frame element will be fixed.
- For reliability, all the bars are interconnected by metal corners.
- Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) from the outside. Sheathing will immediately make the structure stiffer.
- The upper horizontal beam, running along the house, is attached to the main wall using reliable metal corners or anchors.
- The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.
Video: another example of building a light extension to the house
brick walls
- Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the horizontalness of the foundation surface and, if necessary, align it to the ideal. If the base is uneven, then the masonry may crack from deformation during shrinkage.
- It should be noted that brick extensions are best done to also a brick house. To connect the extension with the main wall, during the construction of the walls, holes are drilled two-thirds of the depth, through every two to three rows of masonry. Reinforcement is embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. So that the seams on these rows are not excessively wide, the reinforcement should not be chosen too thick, or it will be necessary to make a recess in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
- If a brick extension is arranged against a wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from inside the house, which will hold it in the wall. Reinforcement is also installed as the wall is erected, every two or three rows.
- Before starting laying, a twine is stretched along the future wall, along which it will be easy to control the horizontal rows, and the verticality is constantly verified with a plumb line.
- The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If this is a living room, then laying should be done, at least one or two bricks. If the room will play the role of a veranda or utility room, then half-brick laying will be enough.
- Having built brick walls, they are tied around the top with a concrete belt. Formwork is made for it, a reinforcing structure is laid in it and poured with concrete mortar. After the solution has completely solidified, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can proceed to the flooring device.
It should be noted that building brick walls is not as easy as it seems, therefore, if there is no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified bricklayer or choose a different type of wall.
Covering the extension and roofing
After the walls are erected, it is necessary to make a ceiling. For it you will need bars - beams, which are installed on the upper part of the walls, at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, and fixed with special corners.
If the beams are laid on a brick building, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, after wrapping the edge of each of them with roofing material.
The next step is the filing of the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which a heater will be laid on top, between the beams.
The roof of the extension can have different designs, but basically a shed option is chosen, which is worth considering.
- This design consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. This type of roof is arranged quite simply, the main thing is to choose the right slope angle. It must be at least 25 — 30 degrees - this is necessary so that precipitation does not linger on the surface in winter, otherwise they can simply damage it.
- Having determined the slope angle, a mark is made on the wall or front part of the roof in the form of a horizontal flat line, along which the bar supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. The lower support for them will be the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall. The rafters must extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 — 300 mm, in order to protect the walls from rainwater as much as possible.
- The rafters are also fixed with the help of metal corners.
- It will be more difficult to solve the issue of the slope of the roof if the extension is installed on the side from which the slope of the main building of the house is arranged, since there will simply be nothing to fix the cross beam there. Therefore, you may have to remove several lower rows (sheets) of roofing material from the roof of the house in order to use its beams to secure the truss system and unify the overall coverage.
- It is necessary to decide in advance which roof will be laid on top of the truss system. If it is a soft roof or flexible tiles, then solid material is laid and fixed on top of the rafters, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing.
- If large canvases are fixed (roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
- When the system under the covering material is ready, it is recommended to lay waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
- Roofing material is laid on top of the waterproofing material, starting from the bottom of the truss system and rising up. If it is necessary to combine the roof, then when docking, the top row of the roof of the extension is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main building.
- If the roof adjoins the upper part of the roof to the wall or the frontal part of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
- When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can begin to insulate the walls and floor.
Prices for metal tiles
metal tile
Insulation of the extension from the inside
If the room is residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated, then you can proceed to the insulation of the floor.
Floor insulation on beams
If floor beams were installed on a columnar foundation for the floor, then the work proceeds as follows:
- Transverse logs from smaller bars are fixed to the floor beams.
- It is recommended to arrange a draft floor on the logs, in this case it is better to lay the boards for it with a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat from the house will be blown out.
- Further, the entire rough coating is smeared with a sufficiently thick clay solution, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
- Mineral wool is tightly laid between the logs, expanded clay or slag is poured.
- From above, the insulation is again closed with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor is laid on it from boards or plywood.
- A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be arranged under it.
Concrete floor
The concrete floor can be insulated as follows:
- Mineral wool laid between logs fixed to a concrete base and then covered with boards or plywood.
- One of the "warm floor" systems (electric or water), which fits into the final leveling screed;
- Infrared film laid on a thin thermal reflective substrate, and closed with a decorative coating;
- dry screed and gypsum fiber plates.
When the floors are insulated, you can proceed to the thermal insulation of the walls.
Frame walls
- Mineral wool produced in mats is used for internal wall insulation. It is convenient to lay them between the bars of the frame. This work is simple and is done quickly enough.
- When the walls are covered with insulation, it is tightened with a vapor barrier film, fixing it on the bars with brackets.
- Then the wall can be covered with natural wooden clapboard, OSB boards or plywood, drywall or GVL - there are a lot of options, there are plenty to choose from.
Expanded polystyrene can also be used as a wall insulation, but its environmental and operational qualities are much worse than those of high-quality mineral wool.
brick walls
Brick walls are usually finished with plaster or drywall from the inside, and insulation is carried out from the outside, but they do it differently.
Insulation, if space permits, can be carried out in the same way as in a frame building, fixing bars on the walls and laying mineral wool between them, and then closing the structure with plasterboard slabs. Wallpaper or any other decorative material can be glued to this coating.
To do everything right, you need to study in detail each stage of the construction of the extension and adhere to the developed technologies. If there is no confidence in one's abilities, there is a clear lack of skills and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this rather difficult work to qualified craftsmen.
The advantage of wooden houses is that a different version of architectural forms and extensions to the house is possible.
You can order any extension to any house according to a standard project.
Types of extensions offered by our company:
Terrace- this is an open area, with a perimeter fence under a common roof with a house. It can be combined with the house, or stand alone. It is convenient to use the terrace as a summer kitchen, for relaxing in the summer. An open terrace can be on one side of the house or around the perimeter.
Veranda- This is a closed building (room). In fact, this is a continuation of the house in the form of an extension under a common roof. The veranda can be timber (from timber), frame-panel, also glazed. The closed veranda is always, in most cases, one-story, sometimes it is attached after construction is completed, when it is necessary to increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe house.
Porch- this is a small outdoor extension at the entrance to the house, through which the entrance and exit from the house is carried out. A porch may or may not have a roof. Most often, the porch is completed with railings with railings and several steps. The porch does not need a complex foundation, more often they always use a columnar one.
Prices for an extension to the house and for work
Porch
Porch cost. Price for 1 sq.m. 5.000 rub.
Porch 1.0x1.0m. 5.000
Porch 1.0x1.5m. 7.500
Porch 2.0x1.5m 15.000
Porch 2.0x2.0m 20.000
The cost of the porch includes:
- column foundation,
- railings with balusters
- canopy from the roof (such as on the house)
Outdoor terrace
Terrace cost. Price for 1 sq.m. 5.000 rub.
Open terrace 4.0x2.0m 30.000
Open terrace 5.0x2.0m 50.000
Open terrace 6.0x2.0m 45.000
Open terrace 6.0x3.0m 65.000
The price of the terrace includes:
- columnar foundation
- railing with >>><<< (возможны различные варианты ограждения, смотрите ссылку)
- roof combined with the house
Possible options :
- Decking
- metal tile
- Ondulin
- Roofing material (in case it is a log house or)
>>> or extensions
Veranda closed from timber
The cost of a veranda. Price for 1 sq.m. 8000 rub (timber 100x150).
Price for 1 sq.m. 9.500 rub. (beam 150x150)
Veranda 4.0*2.0m., timber 150*100mm, 64.000
Veranda 6.0*2.0m., bar 150*100mm, 96.000
Veranda 4.0*2.0m., bar 150*150mm, 76.000
Veranda 6.0*2.0m., bar 150*150mm, 114.000
Prices are indicated for the construction of a veranda from profiled timber.
A complete set of extensions from a bar, you can see on an example
If you don't know what it is, check it out.
Veranda (attachment) frame
A variant of a frame-panel extension with 100 (150.200 mm) insulation is possible, with clapboard or block house finishing.
Briefly: (insulation of walls 50mm, floors - 100mm (double floors, edged board 20mm and finishing floors tongue and groove - 28mm), vapor barrier on both sides, lining on both sides, roofing - ondulin, columnar foundationThe cost of a panel insulated veranda is calculated separately and depends on the thickness of the insulation and the type of finish. Price for 1 sq.m. from 9000 rub. (50mm insulation (Isover, Ursa), vapor barrier on both sides (Isospan, Ondutis) lining on both sides)
Veranda frame (shield) 2.0 * 2.0 m., 46.000
Veranda frame (panel) 3.0 * 2.0 m., 64.000
Veranda frame (panel) 4.0 * 2.0 m., 82.000
Veranda frame (panel) 5.0 * 2.0 m., 98.000
Veranda frame (panel) 6.0 * 2.0 m., 118.000
Veranda frame (panel) 6.0 * 3.0 m., 172.000
Heaters for frame construction
Types of insulation used in construction and panel outbuildings to a country house
Extension projects
Veranda project No. 1
Price: 164.000 rubles
Veranda project No. 2
Price: 178.000 rubles
Semi-open veranda project No. 3
Price: 94.000 rubles
Terrace project No. 4
Price: 108.000 rubles
Terrace project No. 5
Price: 76.000 rubles
Terrace project No. 6
Price: 84.000 rubles
Note: prices are approximate (informational) and do not include the cost of delivery and accommodation of builders at the customer's site (it is possible to deliver a construction change house, (3 by 2.3 m.), worth 15,000 rubles, remains with the client at the end of construction), a more detailed calculation for request.
Photos of outbuildings (terraces, verandas)
You can take a closer look at this one we built. 
This
Solving the housing issue with your own private house is much easier than in a city apartment. The best option is to make an extension that can be used for a variety of purposes:
- a full-fledged living quarters - an additional room;
- living quarters with an attic (if the extension is two-story);
- utility room - its own pantry, which can largely replace the cellar;
- a spacious terrace or veranda where you can spend your holidays with the whole family;
- car garage.
Below we will consider the basics of technology and step-by-step instructions for creating an extension to a wooden house.
Before choosing a specific building material and technology for building an extension, it is important to clearly define the purpose of the room. It may be worthwhile to immediately plan the creation of an extension in which it will be possible to live all year round - in case of an expansion of the family or the arrival of a large number of guests.
Types of extensions
There are several types of extensions to a wooden house. They differ in material, as well as installation features:
- frame extensions;
- from a cylindrical bar;
- from brick;
- from cinder block.
Before erecting a structure, it is important to take into account all the nuances that may affect the choice of materials and a specific type of extension:
To make the right choice of a specific extension project means to correctly correlate the purpose of this structure, the features of the house to which it is attached, with the technology and material of manufacture. To do this, it is important to understand how each type of such structures is built.
Do-it-yourself frame extension: step by step instructions and video
The frame extension has several advantages:
- the design is quite simple, and if everything is calculated correctly, it is quite possible to do it yourself;
- it is built much faster than brick, cinder block structures;
- the design is quite light in weight and does not require much effort during operation;
- in terms of thermal insulation, durability and other consumer qualities, the frame extension to the house is not inferior to others types of structures.
NOTE. If you intend to build a two-story extension, you should consider this option - the structure is lightweight and will not create excessive pressure on the ground, so the risks of subsidence are noticeably reduced.
Preparation for construction
At the preparatory stage, it is important to solve the following tasks:
- What will be the frame material - wooden beams or metal profiles.
- What type of extension will be associated with the main building.
- Accurately calculate all dimensions of the structure and develop a detailed drawing.
- Collect all necessary materials and tools.
First of all, it is important to decide on what type the structure will be built - as a continuation of the house with an increase in the main roof for the installation of a single roof or as an adjoining building.
It is clear that the second case will be cheaper, easier and faster - the extension will simply adjoin the wall. You can make access from the house directly to it, if you make an appropriate hole and put the door.
The diagram of the adjoining structure to the house is presented below.
Structurally, this solution is a roof placed on supports. The roof is standardly presented from rafters and supporting boards. For a longer service life, it is desirable to insulate it, lay out a layer of waterproofing. The basis, as a rule, is the usual strip foundation.
Pairing with the main part of the house occurs at 2 points:
- wall;
- roof.
The connection in each of them has its own characteristics, which will be described below. A preliminary sketch of the extension, as well as practical advice that should be considered before starting work:
At the same time, for the roof of the extension, it is better to choose a material that is elastic enough to make the necessary corrections. You can purchase corrugated board (height within 1 cm) or soft tiles.
In this sense, slate or traditional ceramic tiles, metal tiles will not work.
The frame is made of wood or metal. At the same time, all parts should consist of only one type of material - then the extension is more reliable and lasts longer.
NOTE. Even if the house is in good condition, but old enough, the rate of its drawdown will be several times higher than the drawdown of the extension. Accordingly, it is better not to use a rigid type of abutment of the structure to the main wall. In this case, another type of installation is used - "groove-comb".
As for tools, no special equipment is required: it is important to have a screwdriver, a saw, pliers, a building level and other woodworking tools.
Installation work must be carried out by at least two people - some stages will require joint efforts.
Foundation laying
The first stage of work is laying the foundation. Since in the overwhelming majority of cases, during the construction of a house, the construction of a foundation for an extension is not provided, the foundation must not only be laid correctly, but also securely connected to the main foundation.
NOTE. If you are designing the construction of a newly built house, it is better to take into account the extension right away. It can be made after some time, and laying the foundation along with the foundation of the main building is a technically correct option. In this case, the house and the extension will be a single entity, which will ensure their reliability.
The main requirements for the base of the extension are as follows:
- reliability - stable maintenance of the weight of the structure without subsidence: especially important for extensions made of heavy materials or two-story structures;
- maximum identity with the main foundation in terms of material and depth of laying;
- the most complete adhesion to the main foundation.
Most often, strip foundations are chosen for an extension, since they are quite capable of coping with such loads. At the same time, installation features always depend on the type of soil. It is possible to lay monolithic foundations, made of brick or concrete blocks, fill them with drainage materials.
Schematic diagrams of the bases are shown in the figure.
The technology for building a strip foundation for an extension does not differ from the usual one. In short, a trench is dug, reinforced and poured with concrete.
Connecting the foundation to the main
This is the most critical stage. which needs special attention. Two types of connections are traditionally used:
- "tape-tape";
- "slab-slab".
According to the "tape-tape" type, the stages of work will be as follows:
- From the installation side of the extension, a trench is dug corresponding to the depth of laying the main foundation.
- Further, a hole half a meter in diameter is drilled at the base of the house - for the corners of the foundation of the extension. For all other parts, the hole corresponds to the diameter of the reinforcement at a depth of 2/3.
- The reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the house, for this a wood wedge is used.
- The foundation of the extension is formed along the driven reinforcement.
Installation according to the "plate-plate" scheme is possible in 2 cases:
- the width of the main foundation allows you to carry out the appropriate work (from 450 mm);
- the plate protrudes from the base (minimum 300 mm).
Thanks to the extension, it is often possible to solve another important task - to strengthen the old foundation and thereby support the sagging house. Visual video instructions:
Features of laying the foundation in the case of an old house:
Installation of the floor in the annex
Correctly making the floor in the future room is important from the point of view of 2 factors:
- thermal insulation;
- surface evenness.
It is important to make a quality floor, especially if the extension to the house will be used as an additional room with the possibility of year-round use.
The strip foundation allows you to mount both a concrete floor and make it out of wood. In the case of a columnar base, it is possible to produce only a wooden covering.
Concrete floor
The sequence of technology for laying this floor looks like this:
The concrete surface is quite cold, so this floor needs careful insulation, especially in the northern regions.
Wooden floor
On a columnar or strip foundation, a floor created on the basis of wooden floors is excellent. It needs additional treatment to prevent rotting, but wood flooring is much warmer than concrete.
The sequence of installation of a wooden floor looks like this:
- If an extension to the house is being built as a permanent structure, then preparatory work is carried out for laying sand, crushed stone or expanded clay, as is the case with a concrete floor.
- A ruberoid substrate is placed on the foundation.
- Bearing beams are laid on it. If the foundation is columnar, then they are mounted directly on the poles, the length is cut in accordance with the interval. If the foundation is strip, it is important to install intermediate posts at a certain interval, or use long beams if the extension is small in area.
- A wooden covering is mounted on the beams.
All wooden parts must be carefully varnished to prevent decay.
A good example of installing a wooden floor in a cinder block extension is shown in the video.
Frame installation
The next stage is connected with the direct erection of the frame structure. To do this, first of all, you need to install a strapping beam. If it is assumed that the wall thickness is 200 mm, then the dimensions of the end bar will be 25-40 mm, as shown in the detailed diagram.
The end result is a structure that looks like this.
Cutting a groove in the base can be done complete and incomplete. Can be articulated without punching using a steel angle.
The lower strapping is performed in several stages:
- The socket is mounted in a frame.
- The overlay is nailed into the base.
- The support stand is attached with a bracket.
The upper trim is formed for reliable installation of floor beams, as shown in the diagram.
NOTE. The interval between vertical supports must be at least 50-60 cm, since in this case it will be easy to lay insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, ecowool, etc.). In addition, there is no practical need for a more frequent arrangement of racks.
The general design of the frame is shown in the diagram.
The walls are erected according to the following algorithm:
- Installation on the foundation of a pre-made lower trim. The binding is screwed with dowels.
- Vertical bars are nailed to the wall of the house if the two structures are to be rigidly fastened. If you just need to build a nearby building, then corner posts with temporary fastening are first made.
- Mounted vertical bars. Their height is selected depending on the number of storeys of the structure, as well as on the method of connection with the main roof of the house.
- Next, the top trim is mounted.
- The last stage in the installation is the manufacture of holes for windows and doors.
Between the strapping and the foundations, a waterproofing layer is necessarily placed - foamed polyethylene, roofing felt or other material.
ADVICE. If it is planned to build a large extension with a large number of beams, then it is more convenient to assemble the frame separately by installing all the beams on the lower harness. In this case, there is no need to fasten each element with temporary cuts.
Assembly of the roof and its docking with the main roof
Installation of rafters is carried out in the same way as for a conventional roof, however, the need to connect the roof to the roof of the house gives rise to a number of features of this work.
In general, the finished structure can be schematically depicted as follows.
After the construction of the frame, the material of the roof of the house from the side of the extension must be dismantled so that the rafters appear. It is to them that the connecting rafters of the extension are mounted. Installation is carried out according to the principle of a rigid triangle, while it is important to put an additional beam in front of an acute angle (indicated by arrows in the figure). These elements also serve as an additional measure of protection during snowfalls, so they are also called anti-snow supports.
The sequence of actions for installing the roof can be briefly described as follows:
- The rafters from the extension are mounted with the upper trim of the frame.
- The upper end of the rafters is connected to the purlin, which is pre-installed on the roof or mounted directly on the roof rafters.
Video editing features
NOTE. You should not connect the rafters of the extension to the house in a rigid way. This can damage the structure due to uneven shrinkage rates of the main room and extension. The optimal solution to this problem is the use of a sliding structure that provides free movement of the lower support.
Roof finishing and insulation
At this stage, the roof is completely finished with its sealing and insulation, as shown in the diagram.
NOTE. If the roof of the extension will simply adjoin the wall of the house, and not organically connect with its roof, then a sealant is used for insulation, tightly closing the hole between the roof and the wall, as shown in the diagram.
Construction and wall insulation
One of the last stages is the construction of walls and their insulation. The extension is a durable structure, and even if it is used only for household purposes, it is important to create good enough insulation so that temperature changes cannot damage the internal surfaces of the walls and ceiling.
Schematically, the structure of the wall can be represented as follows.
In fact, this is the final stage of the construction itself. Next, the following work should be carried out:
- finishing work inside the extension:
- exterior cladding of the building;
- creating a transition to the house;
- production of windows and doors in the building;
- all necessary communications.
It is important to treat all wooden structures with special solutions that prevent rotting and the harmful effects of temperature changes.
Timber extension
The principal stages of building an extension (filling the foundation, building walls and installing a roof, followed by insulation and finishing work) do not depend on the choice of a specific construction material. However, depending on it, their own technologies are selected, which differ markedly from each other.
Foundation construction
In the case of an extension from a bar (profiled or round), the differences begin already at the stage of laying the foundation. Since the weight of the future extension will be significantly greater than the weight of the frame counterpart, respectively, the base is required to be more reliable.
A tiled foundation or a pile foundation is often used, less often a tape foundation (for small outbuildings it is quite suitable). In any case, it is necessary that it be settled for at least 1 year.
From the point of view of simplicity and cheaper work, the best option would be to create a pile foundation that can be built independently of the main foundation of the house.
Video - the basics of pile foundation installation technology
Walling
Building walls is quite simple in terms of technology. The only drawback of the beam is that it is quite heavy, and at least two people need to work with it together.
Mounting materials are used as follows:
staples and plates made of metal;
- brackets;
- steel corners;
- screws, screws, nails.
The technology of laying a round beam during the construction of an extension to the house:
Other works
The technology of building walls, insulation and finishing is not fundamentally different from that described earlier.
In the case of building a structure from a bar, two-story structures can be easily made. Of course, in this case, special requirements are placed on the foundation and floors.
Brick outbuilding
Brick extensions to a wooden house are built less often. They are great for living, they can also be used as a utility room.
Most often, in such cases, a monolithic foundation is used. At the same time, a brick structure can serve as the basis for the construction of a second floor of the same kind or an attic. Installation of the floor and roof technology does not have fundamental differences from those discussed above.
cinder block extension
And another cheaper and faster option for building an extension to a wooden or other house is from cinder blocks (foam blocks, gas blocks are also used). Such a room can serve as an additional room, but is most often used for household purposes.
The construction of a cinder block structure is very fast due to the large size of the building material. This option is great if the owners want to make a garage for a car or an ordinary canopy, a veranda.
And finally - a brief video review of the main stages of the construction of a frame extension to a wooden house.
Such projects are used to increase living space, improve the appearance and expand the basic functionality of the building. At the same time, it is extremely important to study carefully what a high-quality extension to a wooden house is. Projects should be designed taking into account the complexity of their implementation. To do this, you will have to familiarize yourself with the features of building technologies. With the help of this article, making the right decision will be much easier. Go!
Read in the article
Extension to the house: options, photos of successful projects, formulation of general requirements
This photo clearly explains the conventionality of the name. A large extension to a wooden house can significantly improve the original technical and aesthetic characteristics. The main thing is that there are enough sizes for large-scale plans. Of course, we must not forget about the financial and time components of the project.
It should be remembered! It is better to complete the construction of such structures in one warm season. Otherwise, there will be additional costs for winter conservation. Accurate planning will help save money in several stages. In particular, bulk purchases of the necessary basic and finishing materials will be useful.
To build an extension to your own hands, you need to realistically assess your own strengths. The most complex work operations can be entrusted to specialized specialists. But even in this case, your own knowledge will be useful for careful control of the performers.
Note! It is better to hire highly qualified professionals. Slave labor was abolished, among other reasons, due to insufficient efficiency. The involvement of relatives and other dubious assistants may be supplemented by unforeseen additional costs of materials, time and money.
In any case, the target task should be correctly formulated in order to accurately create a set of design documentation. The projects of extensions to the house discussed below will help you make the right decision. In a detailed study, pay attention to the important nuances for yourself. Remember that these examples can be used in various combinations to successfully meet individual needs.
A universal solution to various problems with the extension of a veranda to a wooden house
This standard definition allows a precise grouping of different architectural structures. In this case, we are talking about a relatively light construction. Protection of an extension to a wooden house from adverse external influences is designed for the summer season. It does not provide full insulation. However, rain drops and wind penetration are prevented.
How to make an extension of the garage to the house: features of technical premises
Appropriate layers are best placed outside. This prevents the dew point from moving towards the room, prevents moisture from penetrating into the walls. In such places it is better to use foamed polymer plates, which do not need to be additionally protected from water.
The following table provides data that will help you make the correct calculation, taking into account the temperature conditions in a particular region:
| Wall thickness, cm | Weight 1 sq.m. structures, kg | Consumption of materials based on 1 sq. m. walls | Permissible outside air temperature, °C | Notes | ||
| Brick, piece | Masonry mortar, l | Plaster building mixture, l | ||||
| Clay brick (silicate and ordinary) with a bulk density of 1900 kg per 1 m 3 | ||||||
| 25 | 480 | 102 | 65 | 25 | -3 | |
| 51 | 950 | 204 | 127 | 25 | -20 | |
| 770 | 1410 | 308 | 193 | 25 | -40 | |
| 42 | 720 | 152 | 85 | 50 | -20 | |
| 55 | 950 | 204 | 117 | 50 | -33 | |
| 68 | 1190 | 256 | 150 | 50 | -40 | |
| Brick multi-hole (effective) with a bulk density of 1300 kg per 1 m3. | ||||||
| 25 | 350 | 103 | 50 | 25 | -7 | Solid masonry, interior plastering, exterior grouting |
| 38 | 520 | 154 | 76 | 25 | -21 | |
| 64 | 860 | 259 | 128 | 25 | -48 | |
| 42 | 530 | 154 | 66 | 50 | -30 | Air gap, external and internal plaster |
| 68 | 870 | 259 | 118 | 50 | -55 | |
Use this information when choosing materials. The final cost of the project depends on many factors. Sometimes it is more profitable to make a large initial investment, but reduce operating costs.
Important! The above examples can be applied in practice if a rigid connection of the foundations is provided. Otherwise, the roof of the extension to the wooden house is made independent of the main structure.
Do-it-yourself construction of an extension to the house: step-by-step instructions with important notes
| A photo | How to attach an extension to the house. Main stages of work with comments | |
 | The basis of the project is an old house with a slate roof. The entrance part consisted of a "waiting room", which had dubious aesthetic and insufficient insulating characteristics. | |
 | After inspecting the object, it was decided to build an extension to the wooden house using frame technology. For this lightweight one-story structure, the load capacity of the strip foundation is enough. | |
 | In accordance with the plan, they dig a trench, install | After pouring the building mixture, protruding parts (M12) should remain on the surface. They are useful for a rigid connection with the walls of an extension to a wooden house. |
 | it is better to do it all at once in order to obtain a uniform structure of the support without seams and internal defects. At the junction with the house, a layer of waterproofing from a roofing material sheet was installed. | |
 | After the mixture has completely solidified, the formwork is carefully removed. The exact time depends on the external temperature conditions, the percentage and parameters of the components. | |
 | Please note that at the stage of preparation for pouring, special pipes are installed for the subsequent laying of electrical cables, plumbing, and other engineering networks. In this project, holes were made in all the walls of the foundation for the space under the wooden floor. | |
 | Not only the contour is concreted, but also separate sites for the installation of supports, a fireplace, and other heavy equipment. Apply a similar technology with reinforcement. | |
 | Support boards are installed through a layer of roofing material on a strip foundation. Their reliable fixation is provided by anchors. Next - mount the ribs of the transverse lags. | |
 | Sewer pipes and other engineering networks are installed under the floor level until free access is blocked to this space. | |
 | Install flooring. In this project, the author used a thick moisture resistant. It turned out a solid, even base. Mineral wool is installed between the lags, which is protected from water penetration by a film on both sides. | |
 | The frame of the walls is successively installed. Temporary supports are used to maintain the vertical position of these elements. | |
 | Here, the walls are installed on all sides, which creates a closed loop of a full-fledged living space. | |
 | At the next stage, the truss structure is installed. The photo shows that the author delayed the implementation of the project, so the installation had to be postponed for the winter. In this case, we are talking only about unfavorable conditions for performing work operations. "Wet" technological processes were completed on time, in the warm season. | |
 | Install the roof structure from ondulin, with a layer of waterproofing. Mineral wool mats are inserted into the cells of the walls, covered with foil. Outside, vinyl siding is fixed. Inside - lining. Install windows and doors. Finishing decorative finishing is done at your own discretion. |
Here it is told about how to make an extension to the house using a frame structure. When using other technologies, the appropriate instructions must be used. Do not forget to make the necessary changes when increasing the loads on the foundation.
The choice of the construction team and the secrets of strict control
For a better orientation in this segment of the service market, below are extensions to a wooden house with prices and general characteristics:
If you are offered to build an extension to the house inexpensively, check carefully the list of materials and work. To check, use your own list of mandatory activities, which can be compiled based on the materials in this article. Specify the cost of delivery, installation, finishing, garbage disposal. This approach will eliminate unpleasant surprises. You need to study the text of the contract in advance. If you have any questions, please consult with an experienced lawyer.
Successful examples of extensions to the house: verandas and terraces, photos and comments
A thorough overall analysis of the situation will help you make the right decision. Eliminate errors based on the incorrect statement "Money is everything!". The real benefits are received by the person who makes his “little gray cells” work.
Even in the absence of funding problems, thematic knowledge will be useful. They will help:
- choose the right project;
- formulate terms of reference;
- find the best basic and finishing materials;
- supervise work;
- justify the need to correct deficiencies.
The information in this article will be useful for performing individual operations or the entire project on your own. Within the framework of one publication, it is impossible to foresee all the problems that are encountered in practice. Ask additional questions in the comments. Communicate with like-minded people, experienced craftsmen and authors of implemented ideas. This will simplify the construction of a high-quality extension to a wooden house.
