Do-it-yourself cnc machine diagram drawings. Independent production of cnc machine. How to make a do-it-yourself tool for sharpening a drill for metal

Nowadays, the production of small parts made of wood, for various structures, is becoming more and more frequent. Also in stores you can find a variety of beautiful three-dimensional paintings made on wood canvas. Such operations are performed using numerically controlled milling machines. The accuracy of parts or pictures made of wood is achieved through computer control, a specialized program.

The CNC wood router is a highly professional machine built with the latest technology.

All work consists in processing with a special wood cutter, which can be used to cut small parts from wood material, creating beautiful drawings. The work is carried out by supplying signals to stepper motors, which, in turn, move the router along three axes.

Due to this, high-precision processing occurs. As a rule, such work cannot be done manually with such high quality. Therefore, CNC wood milling machines are a great find for carpenters.

purpose

Since ancient times, milling was intended for planing work with wood. But the engine of progress is moving strictly forward in our time, numerical control has been created for such machines. At this stage, the milling machine can perform a variety of actions that relate to wood processing:

Cutting various parts from solid wood.
Cutting off excess parts of the workpiece.
Ability to make grooves and holes of various diameters.
Drawing complex ornaments using a cutter.
3D Three-dimensional images on solid wood.
Full-fledged furniture production and much more.

Whatever the task, it will be carried out with high precision and accuracy.

Tip: When working on homemade CNC equipment, you need to smoothly remove the thickness of the wood, otherwise your part will be damaged or burned by the cutter!

Variety

In the modern technological world, the following types of CNC wood milling machines are distinguished:

Stationary

These machines are placed in industries, as they are huge in size and weight. But such equipment is capable of manufacturing products in large volumes.

Manual

These are homemade devices or devices from ready-made kits. These machines can be safely installed in your garage or your own workshop. These include the following subspecies:

Equipment using portal, with numerical control

Directly, the milling cutter itself is able to move along two Cartesian axes X and Z. This type of machine has high rigidity when bending. The design of the portal milling machine with numerical control is quite simple in its execution. Many carpenters begin their knowledge of CNC machines from this subtype. However, in this case, the size of the workpiece will be limited by the size of the portal itself.

Numerically controlled and mobile gantry

The construction of this subtype is a little more complicated.

mobile portal

It is this type that moves the router along all three Cartesian axes, along X, Z and Y. In this case, it will be necessary to use a solid guide for the X axis, since all the heavy load will be directed to it.

With a mobile portal, it is very convenient for creating printed circuit boards. On the Y axis, it is possible to process long parts.

The cutter moves along the Z axis.

Machine on which the milling part is able to move in a vertical direction

This subtype is usually used when refining production samples or when converting drilling equipment into engraving and milling.

The working field, that is, the tabletop itself, has dimensions of 15x15 centimeters, which makes it impossible to process large parts.

This type is not very convenient to use.

Numerically controlled portalless

This type of machine is very complex in its design, but it is the most productive and convenient.

Workpieces can be processed up to five meters long, even if the X-axis is 20 centimeters.

This subtype is extremely unsuitable for the first experience, as it requires skills on this equipment.

Below we will consider the design of a hand-held CNC wood milling machine, we will analyze the principles of its operation. We learn how to do this brainchild and how such equipment is being adjusted.

Device and principle of operation

The main parts of the milling device are the following parts:

bed

Directly the design of the machine itself, on which all other parts are located.

caliper

A node that is a mount to support the movement of an automatic tool.

Desktop

The area where all the necessary work is done.

Spindle shaft or router

A tool that performs milling work.

Cutter for wood processing

A tool, or rather a device for a milling cutter, of various sizes and shapes, with the help of which wood is processed.

CNC

Let's just say the brain and heart of the whole structure. The software performs precise control of all work.

The work is in program management. A specialized program is installed on the computer, it is she who converts the circuits loaded into it into special codes, which the program distributes to the controller, and then to stepper motors. Stepper motors, in turn, move the milling cutter along the coordinate axes Z, Y, X, due to which the processing of the wooden workpiece takes place.

Choice of accessories

The main step in the invention homemade milling machine is the choice of component parts. After all, choosing bad material, something can go wrong in

An example of an assembly from an aluminum frame.

the work itself. Usually simple materials are used, such as: aluminum, wood (solid, MDF), plexiglass. For the correct and accurate operation of the entire structure, it is important to develop the entire design of the calipers.

Tip: Before assembly do it yourself, it is necessary to check all already prepared parts for compatibility.

Check if there are any snags that will interfere. And most importantly, to prevent various kinds of fluctuations, as this will directly lead to poor-quality milling.

There are some assignments for the selection of work items that will help in the creation, namely:

Guides

Scheme of CNC guides for a milling cutter.

For them, rods with a diameter of 12 millimeters are used. For the X axis, the length of the rod is 200 millimeters, and for the Y axis, the length is 90 millimeters.

The use of guides will allow high-precision installation of moving parts

caliper

Support for CNC milling machine.

Support assembly.

Textolite material can be used for these components. Pretty durable material of its kind. As a rule, the dimensions of the textolite pad are 25x100x45 millimeters.

Router locking block

An example of a frame for fixing a router.

You can also use a textolite frame. The dimensions directly depend on the tool you have.

Stepper motors or servo motors

Power Supply

Controller

An electronic board that distributes electricity to stepper motors to move them along axes.

Tip: When soldering the board, it is necessary to use capacitors and resistors in special SMD cases (aluminum, ceramics, and plastic are used to make cases for such parts). This will reduce the dimensions of the board, as well as the internal space in the design will be optimized.

Assembly

Scheme of a home-made machine with numerical control

The assembly will not take you too much time. The only thing is that the tuning process will be the longest in the entire manufacturing process.

To start

It is necessary to develop a diagram and drawings of the future numerical control machine.

If you do not want to do this, then you can download drawings from the Internet. For all sizes prepare all the necessary details.

Make all necessary holes

Designed for bearings and guides. The main thing is to observe all the necessary dimensions, otherwise the operation of the machine will be disrupted. A diagram with a description of the location of the mechanisms is presented. It will give you a general idea, especially if you are collecting it for the first time.

When all the elements and parts of the mechanism are ready for you, you can safely proceed with the assembly. The first step is to assemble the equipment frame.

frame

Must be geometrically correct. All corners should be even and equal. When the frame is ready, you can mount the guide axles, desktop, calipers. When these elements are installed, you can install a router or a spindle.

The last step remains - electronics. Installing the electronics is the main step in the assembly. A controller is connected to the stepper motors installed on the machine, which will be responsible for their operation.

Next, the controller is connected to a computer on which a special control program should already be installed. Widely used brand Arduino, which manufactures and supplies hardware equipment.

With everything connected and ready, it's time to run a test piece. Any wood that will not go beyond the desktop is suitable for this. If your workpiece has been processed and everything is in order, then you can proceed to the full-fledged manufacture of one or another milling product.

Safety

Safety with milling equipment is the foundation of the basics. If you do not take care of yourself, you can end up in the hospital with serious injuries. All safety rules are the same, but the most basic ones will be listed below:

You must ground your equipment to avoid electric shock.
Keep children away from the machine.
Do not eat or drink on the desktop.
Clothing should be appropriate.
Do not process bulky parts that exceed the size of the desktop, machine equipment.
Do not throw various tools on the working area of the machine.
Do not use material (metal, plastic, etc.).

Video reviews

Video review of parts for the machine and where to get them:

Video review of the wood milling machine:

Video review of electronics

We will send the material to you by e-mail

With good equipment, complex technological processes become available. Specialized equipment with electric drive greatly simplifies the processing of wood blanks. But its acquisition is associated with significant investments. To solve this problem successfully, you should carefully study the materials of this article. Here is how to create functional woodworking machines for your home workshop.

Some samples of home-made equipment in terms of their consumer characteristics are no worse than factory products

Before proceeding directly to the technical equipment, a few general remarks should be made on the relevant specialized room:

It is convenient when the workshop is located in a separate building. This implies sufficient space, the absence of unnecessary worries, the possibility of full equipment and other engineering systems.
If the room is located in, or the basement, it must be well isolated from the living area.
The area of a standard workshop should not be less than 6-7 sq.m. Height - sufficient for free passage and the maximum level of the raised tool (from 2.5 m and more).
High-quality systems of ventilation, heating, lighting will be useful here. Each engineering system should be considered separately to avoid excessive costs during operation.
Make sure that there is enough electrical power for all woodworking machines for the home workshop.

Note! If the equipment has electronic components, special circuit breakers will come in handy to prevent damage by voltage surges, protective grounding. It is necessary to ensure that the network parameters correspond to the characteristics of power units (220 V, one phase; 380 V, three phases).

The use of such a source will reduce fatigue and help maintain good vision. It is preferable to install an LED fixture. It does not heat up the surrounding space like a conventional incandescent lamp. Unlike the gas-discharge analogue, it is difficult to damage it by mechanical action.

Woodworking machines for the home workshop and special fixtures: basic definitions, manufacturing techniques

Each machine is designed to perform a limited set of work operations with workpieces of certain sizes.
As a rule, specialized equipment is more convenient to work with compared to universal models.
It will be easier to make a woodworking machine with your own hands if you first make an exact list of requirements for its characteristics. Excessive power is not required. The required torque can be provided using a gearbox.
Similarly, by setting the appropriate transmission mechanism, change the speed of rotation of the working shaft. For more precise processing, smooth adjustment of this parameter in a wide range is useful.
To reduce costs, you can use an electric motor drill with a broken body in the design, and other working parts of failed equipment.
The most complex mechanical and electronic components will have to be purchased separately. The costs of reproducing some technologies at home exceed the cost of finished products.
The service life of electrically driven equipment will be increased if it is protected from excessive loads. In particular, it is useful to equip with automatic equipment that turns off the power when the engine overheats.

Important! Safety issues should not be neglected. Drive pulleys are covered with casings. Sheets of transparent plastic are installed in front of working tools.

For the rational use of free space, wall and ceiling shelves, racks, hooks and special holders are useful. The exact installation site of the respective ones is chosen taking into account the peculiarities of technological processes, the placement of machines and workbenches.

Related article:

Our review will help you choose and make home-made machines and fixtures for your home workshop, as well as understand the technology of their manufacture.

Creating a wood lathe for a home workshop

The technical data of the respective products, together with descriptions, can be found on the Internet.

The main part is the frame (1). Other parts of the product are attached to it. It provides not only the integrity of the power frame, but also good stability on the surface. The carpentry machine is designed to process relatively light workpieces, so this part can be made from hardwood.

In the central part there is a support with a stand for a hand tool (2). Instead, a holder for rigid fixation of the instrument can be installed. The workpiece is fixed between the front (3) and rear (4) headstock. It is rotated by an electric motor (6). To change the torque on the axis in this design, a belt drive and a pulley (5) are used. The caliper and tailstock move horizontally along a special shaft (7), which is installed inside the frame.

Important! These drawings can be used to manufacture an existing machine. Please note that all dimensions here are in inches.

This project can be used to make a do-it-yourself wood lathe. It is only necessary to supplement it with a special device, which is designed to consistently create identical products.

To fix it in the right place, you need to make a special stand. In this example, 10 mm plywood was used, from which a platform with dimensions of 480 × 180 mm was cut. The given dimensions can be changed, taking into account the actual parameters. Holes in plywood are cut out so that fixing bolts and tools pass through them. For rigid fixation along the contour of the site, wooden bars are fixed with screws.

This design attracts with simplicity, availability of components, reasonable cost. But there are some disadvantages to be noted:

You will have to use two hands to move the cutter. This is necessary to generate sufficient force and prevent jamming.
The minimum radius along which the bends of parts will be created is limited by the diameter of the tool (cutter).
To process workpieces from different types of wood, it is necessary to precisely adjust the speed of rotation of the shaft, and in this example this possibility is not provided.

This example explains that even a design that has been tested by time and practical experience can be improved upon careful study of the equipment and the technological process.

Do-it-yourself homemade wood lathe: video with instructions and comments from the author of the project

How to make an inexpensive homemade wood lathe with your own hands

With the help of this DIY woodworking kit, it will not be difficult to make it. Such a bed can be fixed on a wooden or metal base. The exact parameters of the headstock are selected taking into account the dimensions and seats of the engine mounts. More than enough will be the power parameters of the electric motor from. For carpentry equipment of this type, power from 250-300 kW is enough, if it is transferred to the shaft using a gearbox (pulley).

The last example needs to be studied in more detail. By choosing the right tool with an electric drive, you can get the necessary power, rotation speed. A standard chuck is useful for reliable and fast clamping of the workpiece. In modern technology of this type, protection against overheating, dust ingress into the case is provided. High-quality switches, effective isolation are installed here. This drawing alone is enough to understand how to make a lathe yourself.

Making cutters for a wood lathe from improvised materials

Files, saws, wrenches, and other items made from tool steel will do. It is easier to process square-shaped workpieces (in section). You should make sure that there are no cracks or other defects that reduce strength. For rigid fixation of through cutters, the machine must be equipped with a special holder.

Important components for a DIY stationary circular saw

In this equipment, the table performs the most important functions, so its parameters should be studied with special attention. It is installed with drive mechanisms, elements of the power and control circuit. It must be sized for the weight of the built-in components and wood pieces. We must not forget that during operation there will be static and dynamic loads, vibrations.

When specifying the parameters of the machine, the following factors should be taken into account:

For this equipment, the power of the power unit must be at least 0.85 kW.
When calculating the design, it is necessary to check the height of the protruding edge of the disk. It will determine the maximum depth of cut.
The minimum speed of rotation of the working shaft is limited to 1.5 thousand revolutions per minute. It is desirable to increase it so that during the execution of work operations the color of the wooden blank does not change.

Description of an inexpensive circular saw from a grinder with your own hands

As in the previous example, when creating such a machine, you can simplify the solution of the problem using standard power tools.

The drive with the cutting disc is fixed on the rotary rocker. To facilitate physical effort - install a spring, or counterweight. Tool movement is only allowed in the vertical direction along an arc. This design is mobile. It can be installed indoors and outdoors on a suitable base. If necessary, the grinder can be dismantled. It is fixed with screw connecting elements on a damping wooden (rubber) gasket.

Do-it-yourself bed for an angle grinder: drawings, videos, an algorithm for manufacturing individual parts and assembly:

Advantages and process of creating a simple wood milling machine for a home workshop

This equipment is used for cutting grooves according to given dimensions and accurate drilling at different angles. With it, you can quickly remove a quarter, create a recess in a workpiece of a certain shape. Even without a detailed explanation, it is clear that such opportunities will be useful to the owner of a private house. It remains to figure out how to make a homemade milling machine for wood. Will such a solution be economically viable, or is it more profitable to purchase factory-made equipment?

The answers to the questions raised can be given after a detailed study of the relevant structures.

In the central part of the table, a power unit is installed that rotates the cutter. With the help of clamps and other devices, the workpiece is fixed in the desired position and moved along a given trajectory. Such a workplace is equipped with an operational dust removal system.

To eliminate errors during the implementation of the project, pay attention to the individual parameters of the structural elements:

A table for performing work operations is created in a stationary version. Its dimensions and load capacity will be determined taking into account the characteristics of the processed samples.
Experts recommend installing screw regulators in the lower parts of the supports. With their help, you can establish the exact horizontal position of the structure, even on uneven surfaces.
The power frame can be assembled from steel pipes (rectangular profiles). For the manufacture of countertops, a high-quality and fairly thick chipboard is suitable. A thin sheet of metal will vibrate, which will degrade the processing accuracy.
If you choose a motor with a power of 500-900 W, the capabilities of the cutter will only be enough to remove thin layers, creating relatively small depressions.
When installing a 900-1900 W power unit, more complex operations are permissible. However, some difficulties are acceptable when processing hardwood blanks.
In powerful machines (more than 2000 W), you can install cutters of any type. Such equipment belongs to the professional level. It is designed for long-term operation without overheating the motor.
For the manufacture of a mounting plate through which the engine is attached to the tabletop, you can use a sheet of fiberglass, metal.
To ensure good visibility in the working area, a backlight is mounted above the table.

The following table provides information on how much a manual wood milling machine costs in the domestic market.

Brand/model, photo	Power, W	Maxi- low spindle speed rpm	Price, rub.	Notes
PROMA/ SF-40	1500	24000	17500-18900	It is intended for creation of grooves, folding, milling.
Encore/ Corvette-82	1500	2400	14200-15900	Distinctive design elements: an angle stop with a scale that simplifies processing at a certain angle; side supports for holding large workpieces.
Proxxon/ MT 400	100	25000	14200-15700	Compact lightweight model with low power motor. Designed for processing small pieces of soft wood.
PROMA/TFS-120	5500	9000	175000-183000	Professional level equipment. It is connected to a three-phase network 380 V. Suitable for equipping specialized woodworking enterprises.
X-CUT/ XC-3040	800	24000	188000-196000	Compact machine with numerical control (CNC). For convenience of management it is equipped with the portable panel. Downloading new programs from a computer is permissible using a "flash drive".

The feasibility of implementing a do-it-yourself CNC milling machine project

The use of program control allows you to create large series of parts with high accuracy, to perform unique and especially careful processing. To start a new technological process, it is enough to download a new program and click the “Start” button. Simple and complex tasks will be performed by the wood milling machine automatically, without user intervention and control. This technique eliminates operator errors and ensures the highest quality.

The advantages of this class of equipment are obvious. It remains to find out whether it is possible to create a CNC machine for wood with your own hands. Below are the features of this class of equipment:

It will be necessary to ensure the possibility of moving the cutter horizontally in all directions. This will require not only the appropriate design of the mounts, but also additional electric motors.
Accurate positioning of the tool is provided with the help of sensors, stepper motors.
You will need software that will control the movement of the cutter and perform control functions.

Important! Even with a detailed description and drawings, it will be very difficult to make a CNC wood router with your own hands.

How to make your own cutters for woodworking machines

To create quiet products, you will need blanks made of durable tool steel that is resistant to high temperatures and strong mechanical stress. Damaged drills, fittings, rods will do. The required shape can be created using a diamond disc, which is installed in a grinding machine. Edge sharpening is performed at an angle of 7 to 10 degrees. Too narrow a working part will quickly be damaged even when processing soft wood.

Drawings and recommendations for creating a do-it-yourself thicknessing machine

High-quality reproduction of this type of processing requires considerable effort. Therefore, it is recommended to use a three-phase electric motor with a power of 5 kW or more with a maximum rotor speed of 4.5 thousand rpm.

The shaft (1) with one or more knives is rotated by an electric motor (4), two pulleys and a belt. To press and move the workpiece, rollers (2, 3) and a manual drive with a chain mechanism are installed here. The design is assembled on a solid frame made of steel corners.

Taking into account personal preferences, it is not difficult to prepare do-it-yourself thicknesser drawings. To correct the technical characteristics, the volume of future work, the parameters of the blanks, and the size of the room are taken into account.

Making a functional thickness gauge from an electric planer with your own hands

You can quickly and inexpensively make a machine based on a standard electrically driven tool.

The picture shows that the power tool is fixed above the workpiece in a special frame. They provide the possibility of moving it in the longitudinal and transverse directions with strict preservation of the angle of 90° between them. A modern planer is equipped with a special outlet for connecting a vacuum cleaner. Therefore, there will be no problems with waste disposal.

The technology of creating a grinding machine for wood with your own hands

This equipment performs its functions using rigid shafts and flexible cloths with abrasive applied to the surface, brushes and other special tools.

For the manufacture of household-level equipment, it is recommended to choose a relatively simple one. It can be created independently after determining the required length, taking into account the exact location of the supporting rollers. The following algorithm is applied:

The width of the tape is set from 15 to 25 cm.
Strips are cut from a suitable grit of sandpaper.
They are glued to a flexible base of dense material end-to-end, without large seams.
Prevent slippage of the belt by increasing the diameter of the support rollers in the central part by a few millimeters. It is also useful to install a layer of rubber on them.

Article

He described in detail the entire process of creating a CNC machine for working with wood and other materials, starting with design.

1. Design

Before building a machine, you should at least draw a sketch by hand, but it is better to make a more accurate three-dimensional drawing using a CAD program. The author of the project used google sketchup , a fairly simple (free for 30 days) program. For a more complex project, you can choose Autocad.

The main purpose of the drawing is to find out the required dimensions of the parts to order them on the Internet, and to make sure that all the moving parts of the machine will fit together.

As you can see, the author did not use detailed drawings with marked holes for mounting, he outlined the holes in the process of building the machine, but such an initial design turned out to be enough.

Overall dimensions of the machine: 1050 x 840 x 400 mm.

Axis travel: X 730 mm, Y 650 mm, Z 150 mm

The length of the rails and the ball screw depends on the size of the machine you have in mind.

When designing a CNC machine, there are several questions, the answer to which depends on the final result.

What type of CNC machine do you want to choose?

With a movable table or with a movable portal? Moving table designs are often used for small machines, up to 30x30 cm. They are easier to build and can be made more rigid than moving gantry machines. The disadvantage of moving the table is that with the same cutting area, the total area of the machine is twice as large as when using the design with a movable portal. In this project, the processing area is about 65x65 cm, so a movable portal was chosen.

What do you want to process with a CNC machine?

In this project, the machine was intended mainly for plywood, hardwood and plastics, as well as aluminum.

What will the machine be built from?

It mainly depends on the material that will be processed on the machine. Ideally, the material that is used to make the machine should be stronger than the material that will be machined, or at least as strong. Therefore, if you want to cut aluminum, the machine must be built from aluminum or steel.

What axle length do you need?

According to the original idea, the CNC machine was supposed to process plywood and MDF, which are produced in the Netherlands in the size of 62 x 121 cm. Therefore, for Y, the passage distance should be at least 620 mm. The travel length along the X axis is 730 mm, because otherwise the machine would take up the entire space of the room. Therefore, the X axis is shorter than the length of the plywood sheet (1210 mm), but you can process half, then move the sheet forward and process the rest. With this trick, it is possible to machine pieces much larger than the length of the X axis on the machine. For the Z axis, 150 mm was chosen in order to use a fourth axis in the future.

What type of linear motion will you be using?

There are many options for a linear movement system, the quality of work largely depends on its choice. So it makes sense to invest in the best system you can afford. The author of the project decided that linear rails were the best option for which he had enough money. If you are building a 3 axis CNC router, you will need to purchase a kit consisting of three sets of linear guides and two linear bearings per guide.

What feed drive system will you use for each axle?

The main feed drive options are: toothed belts, rack and pinion mechanisms and screw-nut transmission. For homemade CNC machines, a screw-nut transmission using a ball screw pair is most often used. The nut is attached to the moving part of the machine, the screw is fixed at both ends. The screw is attached to the engine. If the motors are turning, the nut with the moving part of the machine attached to it will move along the screw and set the machine in motion.

The ball screw in this machine is used to drive the X and Y axes. Ball screw bearings provide a very smooth ride, there is no backlash, and the quality and speed of the cut are improved.

The Z-axis uses an M10 high-quality stainless steel rod with a self-made Delrin nut.

Motor and controller type

Usually, stepper motors are used in homemade CNC machines. Servo drives are mainly used for high power industrial CNC machines, they are more expensive and require more expensive controllers. 3Nm stepper motors are used here.

Spindle type

The project uses a stock Kress and has a nice 43mm clamping flange as well as a built in speed controller (but most spindles have the latter feature).

If you are going to perform really complex cutting, you should pay attention to water-cooled spindles - they are more expensive than standard ones, but they are much quieter, can work at low speeds without overheating and with a variety of materials.

Expenses

This CNC machine cost about 1500 euros. A pre-built CNC router of similar specifications costs a lot more, so you can save money by building your own.

2. Accessories for creating a CNC machine

Electrical equipment and electronics:

3 stepper motors 3 Nm Nema 23;
3 stepper motor drivers DM556 Leadshine;
36 V power supply for CNC machines;
interface board 5 Axis CNC Breakout Board for controlling stepper drivers;
5V power supply for interface board;
two-position switch On/Off;
stranded cable Shielded 4 Conductor 18 AWG;
3 touch limit switches;
Spindle: Kress FME 800 (also suitable Bosch Colt or Dewalt Compact Router).

Optional:

cabinet/housing for electrical equipment;
movable plastic cable channel;
4-pin cable plugs.

Mechanical parts:

linear guides: for X - SBR 20 for Y and Z - SBR 16;
ball screw (ball screw) for X and Y - diameter 16 mm, pitch 5 mm4
as a transmission screw for the Z-axis: M10 threaded steel pin with a self-made Delrin nut;
aluminum profile: 30x60 mm, cut into pieces 100 mm long;
aluminum plate 15 mm thick;
powerful anti-vibration leveling feet.

Programs:

CAD/CAM software CamBam;
CNC control program Mach3

The machine is mainly built with 15mm thick aluminum plates and 30x60mm aluminum profiles. The work was carried out using drilling and turning machines. Plates and profiles were ordered cut to size.

3. X axis

The base frame is made of 4 pieces of aluminum profile with a section of 30x60 mm and two side panels with a thickness of 15 mm. At the end of the profiles there are two holes with a diameter of 6.8 mm, with the help of a tap, an M8 thread is made inside the holes.

Threading at the ends of an aluminum profile

To ensure that the holes on the end panels matched, both plates were clamped together when drilling. 4 holes are drilled in the middle of each plate to install the bearings, and four additional holes in one of the side plates for mounting the motor.

Their pieces of aluminum (50x50x20) made 4 blocks to attach the leveling legs. The blocks are screwed to the outer profiles with four M5 bolts with furniture t-nuts.

Linear guides fit directly on aluminum profiles. For the X axis, rails with a diameter of 20 mm were used. The pre-drilled holes in the base of the linear guides exactly match the grooves in the aluminum profiles. For installation, M5 bolts and furniture t-nuts were used.

4. Portal side plates

The side plates of the portal are almost the same, but one of them has four additional holes drilled for mounting the motor. The entire portal is made of aluminum plates 15 mm thick. In order for the holes to be exactly in the right place, recesses were punched in carefully marked places with a center punch, and holes were drilled on a drilling machine along these marks, first with a drill of a smaller diameter, then with the required one.

Due to the way the portal was designed, I had to drill holes in the ends of the side plates and make M8 threads in the holes.

5. Assembly of the portal

Portal assembled and installed

The rest of the portal is made in the same way as the side parts. The hardest part was aligning the linear rails correctly, which needed to line up with the edge of the plate. When marking the exact location of the holes, I pressed two pieces of aluminum profiles against the sides of the plate to align the guides. The drilled holes are threaded M5. When attaching the rails to the portal, make sure that the distance between the rails is the same along the entire length, the rails must be parallel.

Linear bearings are attached to the side wall of the portal.

Several angle brackets give additional rigidity to the structure.

The plate on the bottom of the portal has 6 holes drilled to attach it to the side plates. I had to drill two holes in the middle to attach the nut holder.

6. Y axis carriage

The Y-axis carriage consists of a single plate to which linear bearings are attached. Drilling holes was fairly easy, but high precision was required. Bearings for both the Y-axis and the Z-axis are attached to this plate. Since the linear bearings are close together, even the slightest misalignment causes them to seize. The carriage should slide easily from one side to the other. Rails and bearings need to be adjusted. High-precision digital instruments were used for alignment. When the drive nut for the Y axis was made, two additional holes had to be drilled in the plate to attach it.

7.Z axis

The Z-axis linear guides (rails) are attached to the movable part of the Z-axis assembly. The rails had to be offset a few millimeters from the edge of the plate. To align them, two pieces of plastic of the desired thickness were used as spacers. It was known for sure that the edges of the aluminum plate were parallel, so between the aluminum sides attached to the edge of the plate and the rails, the author inserted pieces of plastic, moving the rails to the desired equal distance, then marked the holes, drilled them and cut the internal thread.

To mount the top plate to the Z axis assembly, three holes are drilled at the end of the mounting plate. It was not possible to attach the stepper motor directly to the plate, so I had to make a separate plastic mount for the motor (see point 12).

Two blocks of bearing housings are made of the same plastic. The drive screw is a steel rod with an M10 thread. The timing belt pulley is drilled, threaded M10 and simply bolted to the top of the drive screw. It is held in place by three set screws. The Delrin drive nut attaches to the Y-axis carriage.

The Delrin drive nut attaches to the Y-axis carriage.

The spindle mount was ordered in advance and has a 43mm clamping ring that fits the Kress used in the project.

If you want to use a water-cooled spindle, it often comes with a ready-made mount. You can also purchase the mounts separately if you want to use a Dewalt or Bosch barrel case, or 3D print them.

8. Timing belts and pulleys

Often the motors are mounted on the outside of the machine or on a separate stand. In this case, the motors can be connected directly to the ball screw using a flexible coupling. But, since the machine is located in a small room, the motors taken out outside would interfere.

That's why the motors are placed inside the car. It was not possible to directly connect the motors to the ball screws, so HTD5m 9mm wide timing belts and pulleys had to be used.

When using a belt drive, you can use a reduction gear to connect the motor to the drive screw, which allows you to use smaller motors and still get the same torque but slower speed. Since the motors were chosen quite large, it was not necessary to downshift in order to get more power.

9. Engine mounts

The engine mounts are made from square section aluminum tubing cut to length to order. You can also take a steel tube and cut square pieces out of it. The motor mounts for the X and Y axes must be able to slide in and out to tension the timing belts. Slots were made on a lathe and a large hole was drilled on one side of the mount, but you can also do this on a drill press.

A large hole on one side of the mount was sawn out with an end saw. This allows the motor to sit flush with the ground and also keeps the shaft centered. The motor is mounted with M5 bolts. There are four slots on the other side of the mount so the motor can slide back and forth.

10. Bearing blocks

The support blocks for the X and Y axes are made from 50 mm round aluminum bar - four pieces 15 mm thick each are cut from it. After marking and drilling four mounting holes, a large hole is drilled in the center of the workpiece. Then a cavity for bearings was made. The bearings must be pressed in and the blocks bolted to the end and side plates.

11. Support for drive nut in Z-axis

Instead of a ball screw for the Z axis, I used an M10 threaded rod and a homemade nut from a piece of Delrin. Delrin polyformaldehyde is well suited for this purpose because it is self-lubricating and does not wear out over time. If you use a good quality tap for threading, the play will be minimal.

12. Supports for drive nuts along the X and Y axes

For the X and Y axes, the drive mount is made of aluminum. Ball screw nuts have two small flanges with three holes on each side. One hole on each side is used to attach the nut to the holder. The holder is machined on a lathe with great precision. Once you have attached the nuts to the gantry and Y-axis carriage, you can try moving these parts from one side to the other by turning the ball screws by hand. If the dimensions of the holders are incorrect, the nut will jam.

Y-axis mount.

13. Z-axis motor mount

The Z-axis motor mount is different from the rest. It is cut from 12mm acrylic. Belt tension can be adjusted by loosening the two bolts at the top and sliding the entire motor mount. At the moment the acrylic mount works great, but in the future it is thought to replace it with an aluminum one, because when the belt is tensioned, the acrylic plate bends slightly.

14. Work surface

An aluminum table with T-slots would be best, but it's expensive. The author of the project decided to use a perforated tabletop because it fits into the budget and gives many options for clamping the workpiece.

The table is made from a piece of birch plywood 18 mm thick and attached, with M5 bolts and T-slot nuts, to aluminum profiles. 150 M8 hex nuts were purchased. Using the CAD program, a grid was drawn with hexagonal cutouts for these nuts. Then the CNC machine cut out all these holes for the nuts.

A piece of MDF 25 mm thick was installed on top of a piece of birch plywood. This is a replaceable surface. A large shaped cutter was used to cut holes in both parts. The holes in the MDF are aligned exactly with the center of the hexagonal holes cut earlier. Then a piece of MDF was removed and all the nuts were installed in the plywood holes. The holes were slightly smaller than the nuts, so the nuts were hammered into them. Upon completion, the MDF returned to its place.

The surface of the table is parallel to the X and Y axes and is completely flat.

15. Electronics

The following components have been used:

Main power supply with 48V DC output voltage and 6.6A output current;
3 Leadshine M542 V2.0 stepper motor drivers;
3 stepper motors 3Nm hybrid Nema 23;
interface board;
relay - 4-32V DC, 25A/230 V AC;
main switch;
power supply for interface board 5V DC;
power supply for cooling fans 12V DC;
2 fans Cooler Master Sleeve Bearing 80mm;
2 sockets - for spindle and vacuum cleaner;
emergency stop button and limit switches (not yet installed).

If you do not want to spend a lot of money on buying equipment separately, you can buy it as a set at once. Before ordering, you should think about what size stepper motors you need. If you are building a small machine for cutting wood and plastic, then Nema 23, 1.9Nm stepper motors will give you enough power. 3Nm motors are chosen here because the machine itself is quite large and heavy, and machining of materials such as aluminum was also planned.

For small motors, you can charge three motors, but it is better to use separate drivers. Leadshine's custom drivers are micro-stepped to achieve maximum smoothness and reduce stepper motor vibration. The drivers in this project can handle a maximum of 4.2A and up to 125 microsteps.

A 5V DC voltage source is connected to the main power input. The fans have an electrical outlet inside the cabinet, so they use a standard 12-volt wall adapter to power them. The main power is turned on and off with a large switch.

The 25A relay is controlled by a computer through a breaker. The input terminals of the relay are connected to the output terminals of the breaker. The relay is connected to two electrical outlets that power the Kress and the chip cleaner. When the G code ends with an M05 command, both the vacuum cleaner and the spindle are automatically turned off. To enable them, you can press F5 or use the M03 G-code command.

16. Electronics cabinet

For electrical equipment you need a good locker. The author has drawn approximate sizes and locations for all components on a sheet of paper, trying to arrange them so that all terminals can be easily reached when connecting wires. It is also important that there is sufficient airflow through the cabinet, as stepper controllers can become very hot.

By design, all cables should have been connected at the rear of the case. Special 4-wire connectors were used so that it was possible to disconnect the electronics from the machine without disconnecting any of the wire terminals. Two sockets were provided for supplying power to the spindle and vacuum cleaner. The power outlets are connected to a relay to automatically turn the spindle on and off by Mach3 commands. There should have been a large switch on the front of the locker.

Details for the cabinet are cut on the CNC machine itself

Further, after an approximate layout of the parts, the hull parts were designed in the CAD program. Then, on the machine itself, already assembled, all sides and the base are cut out. On top of the cabinet is a lid, with a piece of Plexiglas in the middle. After assembly, all components were installed inside.

17. Software

Mach3

Three types of software are needed to control a CNC machine.

CAD program for creating drawings.
CAM program for creating toolpaths and G-code output.
And a controller program that reads the G-code and controls the router.

This project uses a simple CamBam program. It has basic CAD functions and is suitable for most DIY projects. At the same time it is a CAM program. Before CamBam can create paths, a few parameters need to be set. Examples of parameters are the diameter of the tool being used, depth of cut, depth per pass, cutting speed, etc. After creating the toolpath, you can output a G-code that tells the machine what to do.

Drawing created in CamBam

Mach3 is used for controller software. Mach3 sends signals through the computer's parallel port to the interface board. Mach3 commands zero the cutting tool and start cutting programs. You can also use it to control spindle speed and cutting speed. Mach3 has several built-in wizards that you can use to output simple G-code files.

Toolpath created by CamBam

18. Using the machine

The first were made several clamps for fastening the processed materials to the work table. And the first “big” project was the electronics cabinet (item 15).

As the first samples, several different types of gears, boxes for guitar picks were made.

dust collector

It turned out that the CNC machine produces a lot of dust and makes a lot of noise. To solve the problem with dust, a dust collector has been made, to which a vacuum cleaner can be attached.

3 Axis CNC Router

User machine SorenS7 .

Without a CNC router, many projects will remain unrealized. The author came to the conclusion that all machines cheaper than 2000 euros cannot give the size of the working surface and the accuracy that he needs.

What was required:

working area 900 x 400 x 120 mm;
relatively quiet spindle, guaranteeing high power at low speeds;
rigidity, as much as possible (for processing aluminum parts);
high degree of accuracy;
USB interface;
cost less than 2000 euros.

These requirements were taken into account in the 3D design. The main attention was paid to ensuring that all parts fit one another.

As a result, it was decided to build a router with an aluminum profile frame, 15mm ball screws and NEMA 23 stepper motors, with a working current of 3A, which are perfectly suited to the finished mounting system.

All parts fit perfectly and there is no need to make additional special parts.

1. Frame making

The X-axis was assembled in minutes.

The HRC series linear guides are of very high quality, and immediately after installation it is clear that they will work perfectly.

Then the first problem arose: the drive screws did not fit into the bearings. Therefore, it was decided to cool the screws with dry ice in order to reduce the dimensions.

2. Installing drive screws

After the ends of the screws were cooled with ice, they fit perfectly into the holders.

3: Electrical

The assembly of the mechanical part is completed, now it's the turn of the electrical components.

Since I knew Arduino well and wanted full USB control, I chose an Arduino Uno with a CNC Shield and DRV8825 stepper motor drivers. The installation was not difficult at all, and after setting the parameters, the machine began to be controlled from a PC.

But since the DRV8825 operates mostly at 1.9A and 36V (and gets very hot), it skips a step due to too little power. Long milling at high temperatures would hardly go well.

Next up were cheap Tb6560 drivers plugged into an expansion board. The nominal voltage turned out to be not too suitable for this board. An attempt was made to use a 36V power supply.

As a result, two drivers work normally, the third one cannot withstand higher voltage and turns the rotor of the stepper motor in only one direction.

I had to change the driver again.

Well approached tbV6600. It is almost completely covered with an aluminum radiator and is easy to set up. Now stepper motors on the X and Y axes work with a current of 2.2 A, and on the Z axis with 2.7 A.

It was necessary to protect the power supply of stepper motors and the frequency converter from small aluminum chips. There are many solutions when the transducer is taken out quite far from the milling machine. The main problem is that these devices generate a lot of heat and require active cooling. An ingenious solution was found: to use 30 cm long pieces of tights as a protective sleeve, cheap and cheerful, and provides sufficient airflow.

4. Spindle

Choosing the right spindle is not easy. Initially the idea was to use a standard Kress1050 spindle, but it only has 1050 watts at 21000 rpm, so I didn't expect much power at lower speeds.

Dry milling of aluminum and steel parts requires 6000-12000 rpm. A three-kilowatt VFD spindle with an inverter was bought, with delivery from China it cost 335 euros.

This is a fairly powerful and easy to install spindle. It is heavy - weight 9 kg, but a strong frame can withstand its weight.

5. Assembly completed

The machine does a good job, I had to tinker with the stepper motor drivers, but in general the result is satisfactory. Spent 1500 euros and built a machine that exactly meets the needs of the creator.

The first milling project was a shaped notch cut in POM.

6: Finishing for aluminum milling

Already during the processing of the POM, it was clear that the torque on the Y-support is too big, and the machine bends under high loads along the Y-axis, so the author purchased a second guide and upgraded the portal accordingly.

After that, everything returned to normal. Completion cost 120 euros.

Now you can mill aluminum. The AlMg4.5Mn alloy produced very good results without any cooling.

7. Conclusions

To create your own CNC machine, you do not need to be seven spans in the forehead, everything is in our hands.

If everything is well planned, it is not necessary to have a lot of equipment and ideal conditions for work, all you need is some money, a screwdriver, a gripper and a drilling machine.

It took a month to develop the design using the CAD program and to order and purchase components, four months to assemble. The creation of the second machine would have taken much less time, because the author had no experience in the field of machine tools, and he had to learn a lot about mechanics and electronics.

8. Accessories

Electrical:

All electrical parts are purchased from ebay.

Arduino GRBL + CNC Shield: approximately 20 euros
Stepper motor driver: 12 euros per piece.
Power supply: 40 euros
Stepper motors: about 20 euros per piece
Spindle + inverter: 335 euros

Mechanics:

Linear bearings ARC 15 FN