Is it possible to attach drywall to wood. Proper installation and fastening to the wall of drywall on a wooden frame. Mounting on flat and curved surfaces

Today any design ideas can be brought to life with the help of such a simple and popular material as drywall. It is now used everywhere: with the help of it they build interior partitions, finish window slopes, sheathe walls from the inside and outside, finish the ceiling, interior is also popular decorative trim premises. There are several ways to cover walls with drywall: frameless connection and the use of a supporting frame. Most often, the second method is used for wooden surfaces, and wood is chosen as the frame material.

So that plasterboard wall cladding does not bring problems and pleases the eye for a long time, a number of very important points should be taken into account before starting work.

Wooden frame features:

First of all, you need to know that if you decide to install drywall on a frame made of wooden bars, then you need to pay attention to the characteristics of the room in which the work will be done. Remember that moisture adversely affects the frame made of wooden slats.
Carefully inspect the beams before buying: they must be free of cracks, chips and other damage.
The wood from which the slats and timber are made must comply with fire safety standards.
Before work, the tree must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition: this will increase its service life. It can be anything, but sodium fluoride is more often recommended.

We mount drywall on wooden slats: the pros of the solution

Despite the fact that many builders prefer metal as the basis for drywall constructions, a tree also has its obvious advantages, which make a wooden frame a worthy competitor to a metal counterpart!

The advantages of a wooden frame over a metal one:

Availability of material and its low cost.
High construction speed.
Environmental friendliness.
Easy to operate.

Before you start working with wood, the slats will need to be left for several days inside the room where the installation will take place, for acclimatization.

Finishing the walls in a wooden house with drywall: preparation for work

In any construction business, you can not do without special tools. To make the job go smoothly, purchase everything you need in advance. What you need in working with drywall is listed below.

Instruments:

Drill or screwdriver;
Hacksaw or jigsaw;
Roulette;
Marker or chemical pencil.

Materials:

Wooden slats and bars;
Self-tapping screws, screws;
Metal corners.

Any finishing work begins, first of all, with the cleaning of work surfaces.

The first step is to remove the old coating from the walls, the remnants of insulation and sound insulation - in a word, any items that may interfere with the work process.

Before work, the walls must be coated with a special primer to prevent the appearance of fungi and mold.

How to sheathe a wooden house from the inside with drywall: we make a frame

When the walls are ready for work, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame itself from wooden beams.

We remind you that the slats must be pre-treated with an antiseptic, which will prevent rotting and destruction of the material.

A few tips before work:

The distance between the bars should be 40-60 cm.
The width of the rails themselves should be about 3-5 cm, but it should be borne in mind that at the joints of the drywall sheets between themselves, the thickness should not be less than 8 cm.
Fastening the rails is best done directly to the wooden wall and to each other. For these purposes, self-tapping screws are perfect.

The assembly of the frame itself should begin with the fastening of solid bars along the walls and ceiling. After that, you can proceed with the installation of rails, which will be located vertically. Next, we fix additional horizontal short jumper rails between the vertical bars. Between themselves, parts of the frame can be fastened with building corners and overlays, this will give it additional stability.

During work, vertical and horizontal slats must be installed strictly according to the level!

After that, if necessary, you will need to align the frame with the wooden wall. This is done as follows: bars are placed in the right places desired thickness. After the installation of the frame is completed, you can begin to attach drywall sheets to the resulting slats and beams.

Drywall walls in a wooden house: preparing the material

The edges of the drywall sheets should be in the middle of the spacers.
Use an intermediate profile if necessary.

When leveling the walls, keep an eye on the distance between the screws: it should not exceed 25-30 cm.

Processing a wall or partition made of drywall in a wooden house

After the installation is completed, the joints between the drywall sheets and the holes from the self-tapping screws should be processed.

For this we need:

Putty knife;
Special putty;
Reinforced tape or mesh;
Electric drill with a nozzle for stirring putty.

You need to start work with the preparation of the putty mixture. We advise you to use a special putty for sealing seams. Also choose a spatula that is comfortable to work with. It should be with a flexible blade and a comfortable handle.

We apply the finished mixture with a spatula to the drywall seams, as if pressing it between them, then cut off a piece of tape of the desired size and glue it onto the treated seam. Treat the rest of the seams and joints in the same way. To fill a hole from self-tapping screws on drywall, you need to apply a stack of putty to the right place, smoothing it into different directions. After carrying out all the necessary processes, you can optionally prepare a wall finished with plasterboard for further work. There can be a lot of finishing options, it all depends on your desire, imagination and possibilities.

How to sheathe walls with drywall with your own hands (video)

Practice shows that if you follow certain rules and technology when plasterboarding wooden walls, the work will not take much time and will not be difficult. In addition, when installing drywall in a log house on wooden frame with your own hands, you significantly save the family budget.

Interior decoration of a wooden house with plasterboard (photo of the process)

Wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame produced only in rooms with low or normal humidity. The technology of wall cladding on wood cannot be attributed to outdated technologies. It is actively promoted by the company Knauf and is recommended for wooden and brick houses of individual construction.

Wall cladding with drywall on a wooden frame - disadvantages

Wall cladding with drywall on a wooden frame has a number of disadvantages.

The frame is made of wooden beams, subject to decay. Over time, such wood cladding begins to warp and violate its integrity.
For the frame, you need to look for only a dry and absolutely even beam. And such a bar is not only hard to find, but also its considerable cost.

Despite the shortcomings, wall cladding on a wooden frame, both used and used, to this day. Needless to say, this is a rarity.

Preliminary work

Before facing the wall, lay all engineering Communication on a lined wall, namely, lay electrical wiring under the drywall and / or plumbing in the drywall structure (if any).
Wiring can be laid openly, in a corrugation or a box. Then, when installing the frame, it will be necessary to cut out places for electrical wiring and / and water pipes in the bars of the frame.

To work at height, you can use construction towers-tours. They are easy to assemble and disassemble. They create a convenient high-altitude platform, are easily transferred from place to place. For example, ARIS prefabricated towers up to five meters high are assembled by one person in 20-30 minutes. You can see the ARIS tower tours.

Frame manufacturing

For the frame, a dry, even beam measuring 50 × 25 and 75 × 25 mm is used.
The 75x25mm beam should hit the edge of the gypsum board, and the 50x25 beam should support the sheet over the surface.
The timber frame is attached directly to the wall of the room. For fastening, nails are used (if the wall is wooden or plaster) or a dowel - nails (if the wall is concrete) or plastic dowels and screws (if the wall is brick).

If fastening standard drywall fasteners are used. Fasteners are made on dowels and screws, then the holes for fastening are drilled in advance. The distance between the fasteners is 500 mm.
When fastening on dowel-nails, the beam is drilled together with the wall and the dowel-nail is hammered into the hole. The distance between them is also 500 mm.
First, horizontal bars are attached, near the ceiling and near the floor. After fixing them, we move on to vertical racks. The first beam is attached to the corner.
For convenience and correct calculation, bars are first attached, which will fall on the edge of the drywall sheet. Their size is 75×25 mm. Since the width of the gypsum board is 1200 mm, the step between the bars should be 1200-1205 mm (with a single-layer cladding).

With a two-layer cladding, the number of bars 75 × 50 is doubled, and the second layer of drywall is attached to the frame with an offset of half the sheet, both vertically and horizontally.
Of course, you can not bother with buying different timber and for simplicity, buy a bar of the same size: 75 × 25 mm.
After fixing these bars, bars of 50 × 25 mm are attached between them. The step between them is 400 mm. With a two-layer cladding, the step between the uprights increases to 600 mm and their number decreases.

Wood frame processing

The finished wooden frame must be treated with an antiseptic composition. This treatment will increase the life of the frame and save it from decay.

Wood frame insulation

Before fixing drywall, you need to insulate the wooden frame. For insulation and simultaneous sound insulation, mineral wool-based heaters or polystyrene foam slabs or basalt slabs are used.

Plates are laid between vertical bars.

Frame vapor barrier

After laying the heat insulator, the frame must be closed vapor barrier film. The film should cover the entire frame structure. The vapor barrier is nailed to the bars with staples with a construction stapler.

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After fixing the vapor barrier, you can proceed to fixing drywall.

Fastening drywall sheets to a wooden frame

When attaching drywall sheets, the following rules are observed:

There should be a distance of 10 mm from the sheet to the floor and ceiling.
The distance between the sheet fixing screws must be 250 mm.

Some experts believe that a distance of 5 mm should be left between the sheets. It's too much. For puttying joints, it is better to buy a sheet of drywall with a thinned edge (UK) or make a chamfer on the edge of the sheet manually.
With a two-layer cladding, the sheets of the two layers are displaced both vertically and horizontally. The distance between the wooden posts is 600 mm, which corresponds to half of the plasterboard.

To maintain a 10 mm gap between the floor and the sheet, prepare the pads under the sheet in advance.

Technology for attaching a sheet to a wooden frame

Lay 10 mm of lining on the floor near the frame.
Bring the sheet of drywall up to the frame, lay the edge of the sheet on the spacer and lift the sheet.
Fasten the sheet with TB type screws with a drill on the end. Distance between screws 250 mm.

Of course, a strip will remain on the wall, on which neither half nor a full sheet of drywall will fit. In this case, cut the drywall sheet to size and attach it to the frame. When attaching drywall sheets, do not forget about the electrical wiring in the structure. Immediately cut into sheets round holes for mounting boxes for concealed sockets, or simply lead wires out from under the cladding to install surface-mounted sockets.

That's all! Wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame is completed.

Drywall is one of the most popular building materials. It is used for leveling surfaces, building partitions during redevelopment, installation of various structures. It is easy to work with the material, even a beginner can do it home master. Installation must begin with the construction of a wooden or metal frame. Despite the fact that metal base more durable and easier to install, many prefer a wooden frame for drywall.

Frame materials

The use of a frame makes it possible to hide the imperfections of any surfaces without compromising usable area premises. Its construction must be taken seriously. The success of further work depends on how accurately it will be calculated and designed.

For the construction of the frame you need to prepare wooden blocks. It must be conifers wood, the best option is pine.

The material must be flawless and well dried so that during operation it does not deform and withstand heavy loads.

Before starting to work with the material, it should be treated with an antiseptic composition. The antiseptic should not be toxic, since the work will be carried out indoors. It should easily penetrate into the wood, not decompose, not wash out and not have a smell. Do not use oily antiseptics. This can adversely affect the health of the residents of the house.

The thickness of the bars must be at least 40 mm. Permissible humidity- no more than 15-18%. However, the thickness depends on the dimensions future design from GKL. For example, when constructing a partition, attention should be paid to its width and height. The larger these values, the larger the cross section of the bar should be. For wall or ceiling cladding, the width of the material is selected based on how much usable area I would like to save. If the surfaces are very uneven, you should use bars of different sections.

Base for drywall

Figure 1. Rigid fastening of a wooden frame to the wall.

To fix a wooden frame to walls or ceilings, there are two ways. One of the most reliable is considered to be a rigid mount directly to the wall (Fig. 1). The binding is done first. If the frame is built on the ceiling, then the bars are attached to the walls. If a wooden frame is made for a wall, then the fastening of the bars is carried out to the ceiling, floor and walls located perpendicularly.

The plasterboard frame can be attached to ceilings or walls in another way: using metal brackets. The advantage of this method will be quick installation, and the disadvantage is the low rigidity of the structure.

Before making a wooden frame, for example, on a wooden ceiling, it is necessary to mark up (Fig. 2). For this, the lowest point of the ceiling is determined. From it you need to retreat 50 mm and draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room. A strapping rail will be fixed along this contour. To draw an accurate horizontal line at the corners of the room, marks are made on required level. A cord is pulled between them and a straight line is beaten off. In the rail, you need to drill holes for fasteners with a diameter slightly larger than that of a self-tapping screw or screw.

Figure 2. Marking the frame: 1 - prepare a pencil, an angular ruler and a level, 2 - using a level and a pencil, you should make an even marking for fastening the profiles, 3 - the profile is applied to the marking and screwed to the floor and wall, 4 - marking the attachment point with using a plumb line, 5 - assembling the frame and checking the evenness with a level.

The rail is applied to the line on the wall and the marks of future fasteners are transferred to the surface with a pencil. Then holes are drilled into which dowels or wooden plugs for self-tapping screws will be hammered. Reiki are fixed around the perimeter.

The next step is to install the base of the bars on the surface of the ceiling. The fastening step of the parallel bars should not exceed 800 mm. This will ensure the reliability of the future design. Supporting bars are attached perpendicularly, on which drywall will subsequently be mounted.

The frame for the wall can be assembled on the floor and only then fixed to the wall. The size of the wall on which the drywall will be attached is measured. From the result, subtract 5 mm on each side and cut out the bars of the appropriate size. Assemble a frame from 2 horizontal and 2 vertical bars. Additional rails are fastened with a step of 600 mm, crossbars are fixed perpendicular to them. The frame is fixed with dowels, screws or dowel-nails around the entire perimeter of the wall. With this manufacturing method, the heat-insulating layer is attached directly to the wall, and the frame closes it.

In the manufacture of the frame, you can do without transverse bars if its length does not exceed the length of the plasterboard and there are no door or window openings on the wall.

Making a frame for a partition

Before building a frame for drywall, it is necessary to draw up a drawing of the future partition, on which to indicate the location of the doorway. When calculating the rigidity of the structure, the number of horizontal parts should be taken into account.

To complete the work you will need:

Level.
Pencil.
Perforator or drill.
Saw.
Screwdriver.
Self-tapping screws or screws, mounting dowels.
Metal corners.
Screwdriver.
Bars: for vertical racks, the section is at least 40x70 mm, for horizontal - 30x50 mm.

Installation of the frame begins with fixing the strapping bars to the floor, walls and ceiling (Fig. 3). For this, self-tapping screws and dowels are used, if the floors are concrete, and nails, if the floors are wooden. Anchors will be needed for ceiling mounting.

First, the fastening takes place on the ceiling. The boundaries of the future partition are marked, only after that the bars are mounted. With the help of a plumb line, a line is marked on the floor. For more precise marking on the walls you need to make a few marks. After marking is completed, the beam is fixed on the floor.

Figure 3. Installation of the frame begins with fixing the strapping bars to the walls, floor and ceiling.

The next step is to attach the vertical strapping that will connect the ceiling and floor bars. Vertical racks will carry the main load in the structure, so the fastening should be as strong as possible with a fastening pitch of not more than 400 mm. If the main walls in the room are not made of durable materials, then dowel-nails are used for fastening. You can drill holes in the wall in which to place plugs from wooden pegs and screw in screws or hammer in nails.

If the main walls are strong and smooth, then the strapping can be fixed on straight hangers, which are used for a metal frame.

When the strapping is ready, racks are installed with a pitch of 600 mm. It is this step that will make it possible to mount each standard sheet of plasterboard on two racks. Racks can be fixed with metal corners.

For horizontal lintels, a beam with the same cross section is used as for the entire structure. They are fastened with screws. For greater reliability, metal corners can be used.

The opening for the door in the new partition needs reinforcement. For this, additional racks and horizontal jumpers are used. The threshold will be the lower part of the frame.

Laying communications in such a partition is not recommended. However, if necessary, holes of the required diameter are drilled in the racks. Electrical cable laid in special protective corrugated pipes or tin boxes.

Plasterboard lining

Wall cladding with drywall is a practical and common way inside apartments and houses. GKL allows you to align walls and ceilings. A common method is when sheets are mounted on a frame made of wooden slats or metal profiles. If you need to save money or time, the question arises: is it possible to attach drywall directly to the wall? Yes, there are cases when the crate can be omitted. Alignment of walls with drywall without a frame is performed on almost even bases of various types. The photo below shows a room with plasterboard walls and ceilings.

Fastening drywall to a wall without a profile is the best option at flat surfaces. An important role is played by the degree of deviation from the plane. Frameless way wall cladding is applicable if the differences do not exceed 5 cm. When they are larger, a crate is often installed.

Drywall is fixed on uneven planes using beacons. Thanks to this, the installation of sheets occurs immediately on the level. Without beacons, you can mount it, having a lot of experience, or in small areas.

You can control the degree of curvature of the base using building level and a long rule.

Existing methods of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow you to mount it on different types of surfaces. It is possible to fasten sheets:

to a brick wall;
on partitions from porous concrete, monolith, panels, limestone, shell rock, cinder block and plastered;
on wooden surfaces.

Installation of plasterboard on foam concrete

Gluing sheets on a foam concrete base is shown in the photo above.

Finishing walls with drywall without a frame and a profile is beneficial for the following reasons:

this method of finishing reduces the cost of material for the crate;
money is also saved on its installation (if it was planned to involve a specialist);
the volume of the room practically does not decrease;
terms are reduced facing works and the process is simplified.

The following requirements are imposed on surfaces that are planned to be sewn up with plasterboard sheets:

the base must be strong, smooth, without significant defects and fungus;
it is required that the wall surface be protected from moisture.

If the sticking method is used, then it is recommended to remove old paint, pollutants (dust, oil stains).

A big plus of finishing the walls with drywall without a frame with your own hands is that the process is faster and easier than if you need to pre-create the crate.

Preparatory activities

Before you fix this material to the wall without profiles, you should decide what thickness to choose drywall, prepare the required tools. Everything you need for different installation methods is presented in the table below.

Some of the tools and materials are used only for certain methods of installing GKL. Gypsum glue

The photo above shows a bag of gypsum glue used for drywall to glue it on.

In work, you can not do without a ladder, or other device for working at height.

Installation of drywall on walls without a frame requires compliance with a number of conditions:

the temperature during work should exceed +10 degrees, therefore, at its lower values, it is necessary to take care of the organization of heating;
it is necessary that the walls in the repaired room be dry;
in the presence of high humidity in the rooms, moisture-resistant types of facing material are used;
before installation, it is recommended that the sheets lie in the room for 3 days;
the base for the installation of drywall must be integral, not fall apart, otherwise it will need to be pre-strengthened.

The quality of the result directly depends on how well the preparation was carried out. Due to the fact that all the necessary tools and materials will be pre-assembled, you will not need to be distracted during work. Maintaining the required microclimate is a prerequisite during the finishing.

Methods for fixing GKL without installing a frame

In practice, several methods are used on how to level walls with drywall without a frame. They differ in the materials used for this and the technology of work. Using the frameless method allows you to sheathe the walls or ceilings of rooms and offices, directly fixing the sheets on their surface.

In practice, 2 options are used on how to fix drywall without mounting the crate. But it uses various materials. Here's how you can attach sheets:

self-tapping screws (for wood), or dowels;
glue, "liquid nails", polyurethane foam.

Application of mounting foam

The photo above shows the application of mounting foam to the sheet, in order to then fix it on the wall.

The general scheme of work for any installation method:

prepare the base;
fix drywall;
close up the joints.

Additional strengthening measures are not required. Installation methods can be combined with each other. So, the glued lining can additionally be fixed with self-tapping screws or dowels.

Depending on the variant of the subsequent cladding, the surface can be further puttied, and then sanded and primed.

The choice of one or another option is determined both by personal preferences, and by the evenness and material from which the partitions are built. Yes, drywall concrete wall(smooth) glued or fixed with dowels. The leveled wooden surface is sheathed using self-tapping screws.

Fixing method with self-tapping screws, dowels

Sheathing walls with drywall without a frame using self-tapping screws is possible if there is a base made of a suitable material for this: wood, foam concrete or gypsum. The workflow consists of the following steps:

existing protrusions are removed: wooden partitions are leveled by hewing them with an ax or a chisel with a hammer, and walls made of foam concrete (gypsum) with a puncher with an inserted chisel;
fix plasterboard sheets in increments of 25-35 cm, using a checkerboard pattern of their location on the surface of the base, with hardware 3.9x25 mm or 3.9x35 mm long (on a flat wooden surface) and 3.9x45 mm (on aerated concrete, gypsum).

Fixing drywall with self-tapping screws

After tightening with a screwdriver, the head of the self-tapping screw should be slightly “drowned” in the facing.

The photo below shows the process of fixing a plasterboard fragment on a wooden ceiling.

It should be borne in mind that a strong tightening of the hardware at the locations of the depressions causes deformation of the material. To avoid this, the sheets fall short, leaving a slight gap between them and the surface. The strength of the structure being created will not decrease.

When it is impossible to screw self-tapping screws into the wall (the base is made of concrete, brick, cinder block), then the walls are leveled with drywall without a profile, using driven dowels for installation. Their length with non-plastered surfaces should be 6x40 mm or 6x60 mm. If the thickness of the cladding layer exceeds 2 cm, then hardware 6x80 or 8x100 mm is used.

The technology consists of the following operations:

using a puncher or a hammer with a chisel, level the base, removing defective areas;
when the sheet is installed, then a hole is drilled through it;
insert the plastic part;
clog or twist a metal core, placing a washer under the hat;
thus, they sheathe the entire room, cutting the sheets if necessary.

The substrate for the head of the metal core can be made from a U-shaped fastening for the profile. To do this, it is cut into plates with metal scissors.

In places of depressions, the core is not finished off so that the sheet does not concave.

When all the sheets are attached, then proceed to sealing the seams. With even base surfaces, the use of hardware allows you to quickly sheathe a room or office space.

Gluing technology

To level the walls with drywall on glue is usually used, except gypsum compositions, polyurethane foam and "liquid nails". Home-made solutions are also used, for example, based on putty and PVA. At the same time, the techniques for applying the compositions to the surface of the installed material differ.

Before you start attaching drywall to the wall, you should prepare it in a special way. The process consists of the following steps:

work area is cleared of old finish(paint, wallpaper, defective plaster);
close up cracks;
apply two layers of primer;
dowels are hammered in the corners (self-tapping screws are screwed in);
using a plumb line or level, pull threads (thin ropes) between them;
in a selected square lying at an angle of 90 ° relative to the floor, surface irregularities are considered;
if deviations of more than 2 cm are detected, a substrate is prepared from fragments from the material to be installed (a sufficient width of the pieces is 10 cm);
make markings for fixed drywall sheets on a wall without a frame.

When sketching the location of the fragments, the gaps between the edges of the plasterboard and the floor (0.7-1 cm), the ceiling (0.3-0.5 mm) are taken into account. Open areas (output of communications) are also taken into account when marking.

It is convenient to use a laser level for marking.

To attach drywall to a wall without a profile with deviations of more than 2 cm, it is recommended to install beacons. To do this, proceed as follows:

stretch the thread horizontally in increments of 50 cm;
under them (also after half a meter) glue beacons are applied;
control the thread level;
allow the beacons to dry before attaching the drywall to the unframed walls.

In the role of beacons, you can also use strips of gypsum board with a length along the height of the room, glued vertically every 50 cm. In addition to guiding functions, they serve as stops for leaning plasterboards.

Options for leveling the base by gluing GKL

The figure below shows the options for aligning walls of various curvature with plasterboard when it is mounted on glue.

waiting for the primer to dry completely;
apply a fragmentary adhesive mass (2 cm higher than the gap between the back side of the GCR and the base surface) at a distance of about 40 cm from each other over the entire surface of the sheet;
in the same way, cover the base with the composition;
press the plasterboard fragment against the wall;
knock it out with a rubber mallet so that it leans against the beacons.

Installation of GKL on adhesive compositions It is considered a more complex and painstaking way, compared with fixing with dowels (self-tapping screws). It is recommended to use deep penetration primers with antiseptic properties for surface treatment before gluing.

Application mounting adhesive for fixing drywall is shown in the video below.

Installation using mounting foam is shown in the following video.

Application frameless methods allows you to both level the wall with drywall without a profile, and save money on work and material. The savings figure can reach almost 60% compared to frame option. Sheets fixed according to the selected technology will hold securely. At the same time, work on your own is easier and faster (especially on level ground) than using a crate.

Drywall - probably the most popular sheet finishing material for residential premises. Traditionally, it is mounted on a crate or frame made of bar or galvanized profiles. In this article, I'm going to talk about what it looks like attaching drywall to a wall without a profile.

Installation of moisture-resistant drywall on a wall without a crate.

Why drywall

pros

Why exactly GKL is used for leveling and rough wall finishing?

Here are the arguments in his favor:

Large sheet area reduces finishing time;

Reference: a standard GKL sheet measuring 2500x1200 mm has an area of 3 square meters. The sheet area of 3000x1200 is even more impressive - 3.6 m2.

Standard dimensions and weight of GKL.

Drywall is permeable to air and water vapor. This means that the room will not be stuffy even when closed windows. Of course, provided that the main walls have at least the same vapor and air permeability;

The vapor permeability of building envelopes must always increase from the inside out. Otherwise, instead of filtering water vapor into the street, the owner will receive its accumulation in the thickness of the wall. Humidification will contribute to a drop in thermal insulation qualities and a decrease in the service life of walls and ceilings.

Dependence of the state of enclosing structures on the vapor permeability of the layers of the wall, thermal insulation and finishing.

The price of a GKL sheet looks very attractive against the background of plaster. According to Crimean rates, plastering a square meter of a wall costs at least 400 rubles without the cost of materials. At the same time, a sheet of ordinary, non-moisture resistant drywall with an area of 3 square meters can be bought for 300 rubles. Its installation on the wall, unlike its plastering, does not require experience and special skills;
The GKL surface is compatible with any tile adhesives and is suitable for wallpapering on any wallpaper paste. Without exception, all putties also have excellent adhesion to kraft paper - the top layer of gypsum board;
From a related material - a gypsum fiber sheet, drywall compares favorably in that even with cracks in the gypsum core, two layers of kraft paper keep it in the same plane. The broken sheet can be used to level the walls, provided that the broken area is securely fastened.

This feature of the material is useful when assembling arches: GKL is notched and bent, then its surface is leveled with puttying.

Minuses

Does the GKL have disadvantages that it is useful for the buyer to know about?

I would politically correct call them not shortcomings, but features of the material:

All materials based on gypsum are not friendly with water. Yes, GKLV (moisture-resistant drywall) tolerates dampness well due to the low hygroscopicity of the core and antifungal additives in gypsum, but direct contact with water is also contraindicated for him;

However: the problem is successfully solved by using fine finish rooms impervious to water materials. In my bathroom, the plasterboard walls and ceiling are painted with rubber waterproofing paint, which allows them to withstand constant contact with splashes of water and occasional wet cleaning using any non-abrasive cleaners.

The wall above the tiled apron and the ceiling in the bathroom are painted with rubber water-dispersion paint.

GKL has a very limited strength. Accidentally hitting a drywall wall while carrying furniture, it can be broken through. To increase the strength of the partitions, their sheathing along the frame is usually made in two layers; however, mounting to a wall without a profile implies mounting the sheet only and exclusively in one layer;
On the drywall partition or a main wall after leveling the GKL, it is problematic to hang a shelf or cabinet. Of course, this problem also has a solution, which I will discuss in the corresponding section of the article; however, our material clearly loses in comparison with the main wall in terms of ease of installation of hanging furniture.

Cabinets are easier to hang on concrete or brick walls.

Mounting without profile

What is beneficial

Why do I need to install drywall on a wall without a profile?

There are at least two good reasons for this:

Reducing installation costs. The average consumption of gypsum glue Perlfix, which (running a little ahead) is used for mounting drywall on main walls, is 5 kg / sheet at a cost of a 30-kilogram bag from 285 rubles. Thus, the cost of installing one sheet (if, of course, all the work is done by hand) will be only 285/6 = 47.5 rubles;

Gypsum glue Perlfix. Packing - 30 kilograms, cost - from 285 rubles.

I will clarify: in practice, the consumption of glue can increase markedly with significant unevenness of the base. In addition, I did not take into account the cost of priming the wall (however, very insignificant).

At the same time, to mount the same sheet on a crate from a ceiling profile, you need:

Lathing for drywall made of galvanized profile.

At the most humane prices I found (they are offered by the online store Leroy Merlin) this set will cost about 250 rubles;

In addition, fixing drywall to the wall without profiles will significantly increase the free space of the room. Let's do one more simple calculation: find out how much space the frame will take up with an average distance from the wall to the GKL sheet of 5 centimeters and a room size of 4x5 meters.

The perimeter of the room is 4+4+5+5=18 meters; total area the gap between the wall and drywall is 18 m x 0.05 m = 0.9 m2. Almost 1/20 of the area of the room will be inaccessible for use only thanks to the crate.

If you glue the GKL directly on the walls, the cost of the usable area will be limited only by the size of the irregularities on the main wall (as a rule, no more than 5 - 10 mm).

Restrictions

How to find out if the plasterboard can be mounted directly on the wall?

It's simple: if the curvilinearity, blockage or differences in the wall do not exceed 5 centimeters, you can do without the crate. If the size of the irregularities is larger, it is still better to assemble the frame from the profile: the cost of funds and room space will be comparable or change in favor of mounting on the crate.

The long rule and the level will help to assess the curvature and blockage of the walls.

On which walls can drywall be mounted without crates?

Different ways of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow installation:

On the main walls and partitions made of brick, limestone, shell rock, concrete (panels and monolith), gas and foam concrete;
On wooden partitions (frame and plank, plastered and unplastered).

Partitions in stalinkas - plank, plastered on shingles.

Technology

For self-tapping screws

How to install drywall on a wooden partition in stalinka?

If it does not have significant irregularities, the gypsum board can be fixed with self-tapping screws directly to the wall surface. When decorating the walls in the kitchen of one of my old apartments, I did not even knock down the plaster; because of its thickness, I had to use self-tapping screws 70 mm long for fastening.

What screws to use?

Black phosphated. On wood or plasterboard - it doesn't matter: they differ only in the thread pitch. Self-tapping screws for GVL and drywall have a smaller pitch, due to which it is more difficult to push the sheet through with a hat.

1 - self-tapping screw for drywall and GVL, 2 - self-tapping screw for wood.

How to screw screws?

Only with a screwdriver - cordless or mains powered. After screwing hundreds of self-tapping screws onto one sheet of drywall with a screwdriver, hands feel, frankly, not very good.

Cordless drywall screwdriver.

Is it necessary to reinforce the seams with this installation method??

Necessarily, because with fluctuations in humidity and temperature, the geometry of wooden partitions will inevitably change. How to do this, I will tell a little later.

How to level a wall with drywall without a profile if it is made of bricks or foam blocks? How to fix the GKL?

It can be attached:

On the gypsum glue already mentioned by me;
On the mounting foam;

Mounting foam has excellent adhesion to any surfaces.

If the base has irregularities of no more than 3-5 mm - on liquid nails or any other construction adhesive.

On glue

How to attach drywall to a wall without a profile using liquid nails ?

The base is cleaned from peeling plaster, dirt, glossy paint and other weak and low-adhesion coatings;
Protrusions with a height of more than 3-5 millimeters are removed with a chisel or perforator;
The wall is primed over the entire area with acrylic penetrating primer. It is necessary to primer twice without intermediate drying. The primer will stick the remaining dust and strengthen the surface, preventing the GKL from peeling off along with the top layer of the base. The primer is applied with a sprayer, a long-haired roller or a soft wide brush;

Primer of the main wall under the GKL sticker.

After the soil has completely dried, the recesses in the wall with a width of more than 10 centimeters are sealed with cement - sand mortar. You can use a homemade solution of Portland cement and sifted sand in a ratio of 1: 3, as well as any cement plaster or putty;
The seal after drying is re-primed;
After the soil has completely dried, glue is applied to the back surface of the drywall sheet in strips. The step between the strips is 10-15 cm;

So liquid nails are applied to the back surface of the sheet.

The sheet is pressed tightly against the wall and supported by several inclined boards at different heights.

On the foam

How to fix drywall with foam?

Foam differs from liquid nails and other building adhesives in two ways:

It perfectly fills all the recesses in the wall. If so, they can not be sealed - it is enough to remove protrusions with a height of more than 5 millimeters;
The foam expands upon setting. Therefore, we will have to fix the sheet against the wall for 30 - 60 minutes after it is pasted.

How to do it? Here is a simple instruction:

Putting the sheet against the wall and supporting it with a pair of inclined boards, mark and drill in the sheet and wall on equal distance from each other 8 holes for dowel-screws measuring approximately 8x80 mm;
Apply foam on the back of the sheet - dotted with a step of 20 cm or stripes around the perimeter and inside the sheet;
Press the sheet against the wall and fix it with dowel screws. Their hats do not need to be heated below the surface level, as when mounted on a frame: after the foam has set, the screws can be removed or, conversely, screwed to the level of the main wall and hide the holes with putty.

Plasterboard slopes are planted on mounting foam and fixed with dowel-screws for the time of its setting.

The position of the sheet is strictly in vertical plane you need to control a long level or a rule and a plumb line. Dowel screws will not allow drywall to bend in the direction from the wall, and the expansion of the mounting foam will prevent bending in the opposite direction.

For gypsum glue

How to fix drywall on a wall without a profile on gypsum glue?

First of all: not only specialized glue (Perlfix, Volma Montazh, etc.) is suitable for this purpose, but also any gypsum putty or plaster. Their price is approximately equal to the cost of glue, adhesive qualities also practically do not differ.

Plaster or putty can successfully replace gypsum glue.

Work in this case also begins with the preparation of the wall. It must be cleaned of dirt, dust-free and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer twice.

The adhesive composition is prepared as follows:

Glue, plaster or putty is poured into a wide container with water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of the mixture. They are as evenly distributed as possible over the surface of the water;

The dry mixture is poured into water. If you pour water into gypsum glue, a lot of dry lumps will remain at the bottom of the container.

Then the future glue is aged for 3-5 minutes. During this time, the maximum volume of the dry mixture should be saturated with water;
The mixture is mixed manually (with a spatula or trowel) or with a mixer. A drill with an appropriate nozzle will also work. Stir the mixture until a homogeneous consistency without lumps is obtained.

Glue can be applied with equal success both to the wall and to the sheet itself. It seems to me more convenient to apply to the wall: GKL already weighs 30 kg, and together with glue it becomes quite massive and inconvenient to move. The glue should be applied in blotches in increments of 15 - 20 centimeters; a solid roller is needed only at the level of the plinth - it will significantly simplify its fastening with dowels and screws.

So gypsum glue is applied to the surface of the GKL.

Then the sheet is pressed against the wall and leveled using a level and a rule in a vertical plane. As a rule, he does not need additional fixation: the viscosity of the adhesive ensures the stability of the position. The position and bend of the GKL are corrected with light strokes of the palm or a rubber mallet.

By the way: I used the same method of fixing drywall when finishing door and window slopes. The final gypsum putty Eurogypsum was used as glue.

The slopes of the doorway in the photo are finished with drywall, planted on finishing putty Eurogips.

A couple of nuances:

When installing adjacent sheets, you need to pay Special attention the mutual position of their edges. The differences will have to be removed with a thick layer of putty, which will unnecessarily increase the cost of money and time for finishing;

The edges of adjacent sheets must be strictly in the same plane.

On a curved wall with significant differences, it is worth sticking beacons from GKL scraps on the same gypsum glue or on putty. For the same purpose, dowel-screws partially screwed into the wall can also be used; the position of the sheet is corrected by screwing them in and out a few turns.

The sheets are aligned in the same plane with the help of improvised beacons.

Sealing and puttying

How to seal seams between adjacent sheets?

Drywall (even moisture resistant) has a certain hygroscopicity and slightly changes its linear dimensions with fluctuations in humidity. The same thing happens with temperature changes: thermal expansion has not been canceled. Periodic changes in the dimensions of adjacent sheets sooner or later lead to the appearance of cracks along the seams separating them.

A few years after finishing the room, cracks appeared at the seams without reinforcement.

So that the seams do not crack, they need to be reinforced. For this purpose, a sickle is traditionally used - a rolled self-adhesive glass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty directly through the mesh.

Reinforcement of the seam with sickle.

The seam is puttied in at least two passes. The cavity of the seam is filled with putty with the first pass, the fiberglass mesh reinforcing the seam is covered with the second pass. Sometimes a third pass is required: when drying, the putty shrinks slightly, but noticeably, and the seam after it has set looks concave.

The preparation and use of putty has several subtleties:

It is prepared in small batches. The specific size of a single serving of putty depends on your puttying skills. It seems to me convenient to use no more than one and a half kilograms of dry mixture at a time;

Putty is prepared in small portions. The life time of the finished mixture does not exceed 30 - 40 minutes.

Wash dishes and spatulas before preparing each new portion. Otherwise, the old putty will form hard lumps in the solution. These lumps, when putty is applied to the GKL, will leave untidy furrows in it;
To fill the seam, it is convenient to use a spatula with a width of 10 - 12 cm. The seam is filled with sliding movements crosswise; in this case, both sides of it are filled with putty as evenly and densely as possible;

The edges of sheets cut to size are cut before puttying sharp knife.

The second (covering) layer of putty is applied with movements along the seam with a spatula 30-35 centimeters wide. Putty is previously applied to it with a narrow spatula.

I prefer to reinforce the seam not with sickle, but with rolled fiberglass: due to the smaller thickness of the material, the seam stands out less on the surface of adjacent sheets. Fiberglass is denser than a mesh and does not allow filling a seam through it, so the reinforcement technology differs markedly from the one I described above:

The seam is filled with putty (taking into account its shrinkage during drying - twice);
Then fiberglass is glued along the seam. Glue - diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1 PVA. It is applied to the fiberglass laid on top of the drywall scraps with a wide brush;

Rolled fiberglass. Due to its smaller thickness, it gives a more accurate seam compared to sickle.

It is more convenient to cut fiberglass for stickers in pieces about a meter long.

The reinforcing tape is pressed against the seam and smoothed out with a rubber or steel spatula. If you do it with your bare hands, there will be a lot of the thinnest fragments of fiberglass in the skin. These splinters are not very painful and come out quickly, but they noticeably interfere with work;
After the glue has dried (it takes no more than an hour), the seam is covered with the final layer of putty and polished.

Do I need to putty the entire surface of drywall?

This is not required, but desirable. Putty creates a separating layer on the surface, which allows, if necessary, to peel off the wallpaper without peeling off the top layer of kraft paper. In addition, puttying the surface will reliably mask the seams that stand out.

Plastering plasterboard walls.

It is convenient to use a special corner spatula to align the corners.

Puttying the surface is easiest to do in two layers “on a peel”: the putty is applied with a narrow spatula to a wide one and spread on the gypsum board with sliding movements as thin as possible. After drying the first layer, the operation is repeated again.

Between puttying drywall and painting walls with paint on water based must be at least two weeks. During this time, the remaining moisture will completely leave the seams. If you rush to paint, the seams will stand out dark tone with any number of dye layers.

How to sand?

I use for this purpose a vibrating sander with sanding grids No. 80 (first pass) and No. 120 (second pass) fixed to it. Sanding is best with the brightest possible light, directed at an oblique angle to the surface: it will allow you to see the slightest irregularities due to cast or shadows.

Even an inexpensive vibrating grinder will greatly speed up the work compared to a hand grater.

Do not be too lazy to put on goggles and a gauze bandage or a respirator. Gypsum dust strongly irritates the eyes and mucous membranes.

Comrades! Do not neglect personal protective equipment!

Hanging furniture

How to fix on a plasterboard wall hanging shelf or locker?

If the wall is sheathed with GKL on self-tapping screws or pasted over with building glue, there will be no problems in principle: the sheet is tightly pressed against the wall, which makes it possible to use ordinary dowel-screws of increased length for installation.

Foam or gypsum glue means that there is a gap between the sheet and the main wall, allowing the drywall to be washed during installation.

At the stage of wall sheathing, the problem is solved in two ways:

In the place of the intended attachment of the hanging furniture, a continuous layer of gypsum glue, plaster or putty is applied to the back side of the plasterboard or to the wall;

The more often glue cakes are applied, the greater the load the lining will withstand.

The GKL section is cut out, and instead of it, a wooden embedded part of the appropriate thickness is attached to the wall with dowel screws or anchors.

The latter method will also work if the drywall is already fixed: it is enough to cut it with a sharp knife around the perimeter of the embedded part and cut out the gypsum glue with a chisel, after which the mortgage from a bar or thick plywood is attached directly to the wall.

Finally, to attach hanging furniture directly through the drywall and the gap between it and the main wall, you can use elongated anchors with a couple of additional threaded nuts. The fixing angles of the cabinets are clamped between these nuts.

To fasten the cabinet, it is enough to supply the wedge anchor with a couple of additional nuts.

For light shelves, Molly anchors can be used. They only stick to drywall.

Conclusion

I hope that my simple advice will help the dear reader in finishing his own home. As always, I would appreciate your comments and additions. Additional information will be offered to your attention by the video in this article. Good luck, comrades!

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Not a single repair in our time is complete without drywall. Walls are constantly sheathed with this material, they are made from it various designs and they finish the ceilings. As a rule, for the installation of drywall sheets, a frame is pre-mounted, on which the material is fixed. Increasingly, however, people are looking to attach drywall to a wall without a profile. What is it connected with? First of all, with the desire to save time, money and labor resources.

But can drywall be fixed directly to the wall? The question is ambiguous. Experienced craftsmen it is recommended to mount a metal or wooden frame and only then fix gypsum boards on it. However, with proper installation, it is possible to install drywall on walls without a frame. Nevertheless, it is better to think it over several times, and if only if the solution has no alternatives to get down to business, since fastening the GKL without a frame, just for the sake of economy, can result in high costs in future. You can fix drywall in this way, for example, if you are doing repairs in small rooms, such as bathrooms, toilets, balconies, then the frame will steal precious space.

One of the exotic ways to fasten drywall without a profile is to glue it on a mounting foam.

Conditions for fastening without profiles

In order to attach directly to the wall GKL or GVL, you must comply with a number of necessary conditions, without which this procedure is simply impossible.

The wall should be vertical and perfectly flat, that is, not have any even the slightest slope. There are situations when the wall does not stand evenly enough and in such cases it is carried out, the frame is partially installed. Metal profiles in this installation option serve only as an equalizer for the wall.

The height of the room should not exceed the length of the drywall sheet. The problem here is that when installing drywall sheets, it is understood that the joints of different pieces of drywall will be located along transverse metal profiles. If you fasten the sheets directly to the wall, then you should not have transverse joints at all, since there will be nothing to fasten them to.

If the wall has minor irregularities from two millimeters to two centimeters, then there is an option to level it with a starting putty, in which ten to fifteen percent of gypsum must first be added. For fixing drywall, it is recommended to use ready-made adhesive mixtures. The mixture must be applied around the perimeter of the entire sheet, as well as in one continuous strip in its center.

If the irregularities are much larger, then plasterboard beacons can be used instead of frame profiles. They are drywall, cut into squares or rectangles of ten to twenty centimeters and serve to level the wall with drywall sheets without a frame.

After the adhesive mixture dries, the drywall sheets are again fastened with dowels in the corners and in the center. The dowels are fastened so that they go into the wall by at least forty millimeters.

After the final installation of the sheets has been carried out, it is necessary to putty the connecting seams, as well as glue the mesh.

Required Tools

For finishing, you will need some non-standard tools. It is better to prepare them in advance.

Knife, with replaceable blades for cutting drywall sheets;
Electric jigsaw or saw for working with drywall;
Strong thread. It will come in handy to create a plane level;
Nails or screws;
Building level;
Simple pencil;
Plumb;
Scraper to clean the edges of the drywall sheet;
Drill, whisk and bucket to dilute and stir the solution;
Putty knife. It is better to take two spatulas - wide and narrow;
Rubber mallet;
Ordinary hammer;
Pliers;
Phillips screwdriver.

Let's also look at the materials that will be used in the course of work.

Plasterboard sheets;
Glue, for working with plasterboard sheets. You can also use the starting putty if you add ten percent gypsum or PVA glue to it;
Water;
Primer;
Dowels. The size of each dowel should be from eighty to one hundred and twenty millimeters;
Serpyanka;
Glue.

Preparation for installation

If you are going to drywall a brick or concrete wall, then it must first be cleaned and sprayed with mortar. Then the surface needs to be primed. Soil must be diluted strictly in accordance with the instructions specified by the manufacturer. If it is written on the package that the primer is ready for use, then nothing needs to be diluted. You can immediately start processing the wall.

If preserved on the wall old plaster, it is tedious to carefully examine it in order to identify weak spots and treat them with a solution, and then with a primer.

It is categorically impossible to attach drywall sheets to walls in rooms in which there is constant dampness. And also it is impossible to carry out this type of repair if condensation remains on the walls of the room. This will seriously damage the fastening of the sheets. In such rooms, it is necessary to use a special moisture-resistant drywall and fasten it only to the frame.

Before fixing drywall, it is necessary to inspect with the help of a level and a plumb line for deviations from the vertical and in the alignment. If it is possible, then all the convex places must be knocked down, and the depressions should be covered with mortar in order to perfectly level the surface before starting installation.

After priming, with a pencil or chalk, markings are applied to the wall. If you do this before priming, then all the drawings will simply wash off. Sheets of drywall, on the side of attachment to the wall, must also be lubricated with a primer before attachment. Lighthouses need to be cut out of drywall sheets and lubricated with a primer on both sides.

If this is necessary, the next step in the installation is the installation of electrical wiring. In cases where the wire must pass on the ledges of the wall, it must be drowned in drywall. To do this, you will have to make special grooves in the sheet.

Mounting on flat and curved surfaces

If the wall surface is relatively flat, then beacons will not have to be used. Use a mixer to mix dry powder in water to make glue. If you do not have a mixer, then you can make the glue by hand, but then the process will take much more time and effort.

If you decide to add PVA glue to the putty, then first you need to dilute the glue in water, and only then pour the dry powder. If you do the opposite, then the putty will harden very quickly and turn into a stone. Naturally, after that, it can no longer be used for its intended purpose.

Apply glue to drywall sheets in one continuous strip around the entire perimeter on all edges. In the center of the sheet, you also need to apply several cakes from the solution in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the cakes should be about forty centimeters. To make the fastening sufficiently reliable, you need to glue more than a tenth of the surface of the drywall sheet with glue.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Attach the sheet to the wall strictly vertically. It must be attached and pressed against the wall. It is best if someone will help you with this, since it is problematic to do this process alone. Check how firmly the sheet is attached. If you have any doubts, then press it harder on those places where the lag occurs. Just enough solution is applied to the sheet to allow for this post-adjustment. If the solution is not enough, then theoretically the sheet can be peeled off, but it is better to avoid such situations, since the plasterboard sheet can simply break during the peeling process.

If the wall is tilted or rotated, then beacons will have to be used. Use a strong thread to make a net indicating the desired verticality and flatness. Next, the beacons are installed in the right places. You need to install them so that they touch the thread frame. Then drywall sheets are attached in the same way as in the first version. After that, fix the problem areas with dowels, and seal the seams with putty and sickle.

If you attach drywall sheets to a wooden wall or ceiling, then everything is much easier. To install such a sheathing, it is enough to fasten the sheets to the wall with self-tapping screws or screws. If a wooden wall not even, then this is corrected by applying additional wooden lining, and all the bulges can be removed with an ordinary planer.

As you can see, there are different ways installation of drywall sheets, but the most reliable way installation of GKL - installation on metal carcass. Only in this way will the sheets hold firmly enough.

Successful perception of the repair and construction work carried out. Even the most sophisticated finishing materials will lose all their gloss against the background of depressions or bumps in wall planes. Therefore, the alignment of the walls during the repair can be considered a priority. For its implementation, drywall is the best suited.

GKL, as a finishing material, does not need special advertising. Moisture-resistant, ordinary, fire-resistant - for any room you can choose drywall of the required quality. For bathrooms - moisture resistant, for the corridor - fire-resistant, common for living rooms.

Standard sizes 600x1250, 1200x2000, 1200x2500, 1200x3000 allow the use of this material with virtually no waste. After minimal processing, the surface of the sheets is ready for wallpapering and applying textured plaster, and laying tiles.

There are two ways of fastening the GKL to the walls - frame and frameless.

The first option is much more suitable for large rooms where there is no space limit. The profile frame and the drywall mounted on it take at least 40 mm of the floor and ceiling from each wall (27 mm - profile + 12.5 mm - GKL).
The frameless method allows you to fix drywall sheets directly to the vertical surfaces of a room or office. In addition to saving space, this method is more profitable from an economic point of view. The financial component of the frame is 60% of the cost of walls assembled from plasterboard.

There are three options frameless mounting drywall sheets for walls:

Fastening sheets with self-tapping screws.
Installation of plasterboard dowels.
Gluing drywall.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the alignment of the walls with drywall sheets, it is necessary to make general analysis proposed activities and choose a method for their implementation.

The overall assessment of the situation includes:

Checking the verticality of the walls. Produced using a level or plumb.
Inspection of the plane of the walls. It is performed with a long rule, or with a stretched cord. The presence of bumps and depressions is revealed.
Checking outside and inside corners. It is carried out in order to determine deviations from geometric correctness (often it is 90 degrees). The tool is most often a square.
Assessment of door and window openings. A check is made vertically and horizontally and the need to adjust the openings with the help of GKL is determined.

Depending on the identified deviations and the condition of the walls, the alignment method is selected. Small errors can be completely eliminated by fixing sheets of drywall directly to existing walls. Large drops and irregularities will require either a frame or GKL installation on a special glue.

Installation of drywall sheets with self-tapping screws

This installation option is possible only if there is a base into which self-tapping screws can be screwed. It can be wood, aerated concrete blocks or plaster partitions.

Preliminary preparation for installation work will consist in removing the protruding sections of the plane of the walls. tubercles wooden base leveled with a hammer and chisel, it is also possible to use a hatchet. Foam concrete and gypsum partitions are easiest to process with a puncher with a chisel.

Sheets of drywall are attached in a checkerboard pattern. Hardware for fastening are wood screws. The screw length varies depending on the wall material. For relatively even cladding wooden surface self-tapping screws 3.9x25 and 3.9x35 mm are suitable.

Self-tapping screws 3.9x45 mm are used for mounting GKL on aerated concrete and gypsum partitions. When tightening the screws, it is necessary to monitor the depth of the recessed head of the hardware. It is considered normal if the screw is immersed in drywall by 1 - 2 mm. The fastening step is about 250 mm at the edge of the sheet and 250 - 350 mm at its center.

Particular attention should be paid to the attachment points of the GKL in the areas - depressions. Strongly tightened self-tapping screws simply deform drywall. As a result, it will exactly repeat the relief of the uneven walls.

In such cases, it makes sense not to reach the hardware, leaving a small space between the base and the sheets. This will not greatly affect the strength of the structure, but the number of layers of putty for leveling will significantly reduce.

GKL fastening with dowels

If it is not possible to screw self-tapping screws into walls and partitions, then drywall can be mounted on dowels. For non-plastered brick, concrete and cinder block bases, driven dowels 6x40 or 6x60 mm are used. When the walls are plastered, and the plaster layer reaches 20 mm, you will have to use hardware 6x80 and even 8x100 mm.

Training seats to install the dowels, it is carried out with a perforator with a drill of the appropriate diameter. The hole is drilled through a sheet of drywall installed in place. The plastic clip should have a “sweat” ending.

It is advisable to tighten the metal core with a screwdriver or screwdriver. Sometimes it is impossible to tighten the self-tapping screw and you have to resort to the help of a hammer. In this case, it is advisable to put a homemade washer - a gasket under the screw head. Such washers can be made from a U-shaped bracket for plasterboards. To do this, the bracket is cut with scissors for metal into several plates, and a self-tapping screw is threaded into the existing holes.

As in the case of mounting sheets on self-tapping screws, depressions on the plane of walls and partitions can become a problem. The recipe for elimination is to not pull the dowel core all the way.

Installation of drywall on the adhesive mixture

Such an assembly is the most difficult and painstaking way to level walls with drywall without a frame. Installation is carried out in the following order:

Inspection of the leveled surface. Includes the definition of protruding places of walls and piers. In these areas, the amount of adhesive applied will be minimal. Identification of areas with swollen plaster and putty. Such places will need to be cleaned up.
Surface preparation for installation. Mechanical removal of old wallpaper, tiles, loose plaster. Notching sections of walls covered with oil or pentaphthalic paints.
Priming of walls and partitions. As a primer, it is better to use a deep penetration primer. For areas covered with paint, concrete contact can be used.
Installation of beacons. The main task of such an event is to create points of support for the back side of the GCR. Lighthouse marks can be plastic clips of dowels with self-tapping screws screwed into them. The heads of the hardware should create a plane on which the drywall will be mounted.
Installation of drywall sheets. A special adhesive mass is applied both to the wall and to the plasterboard. The glue is applied not in a continuous layer, but in fragments. The distance between such fragments is 30 - 40 cm. The height is 15 - 20 mm more than the gap between the base and the back of the drywall. The sheet is pressed against the wall, and the correctness of its installation is checked by a rule with a level.

To work with drywall sheets, you often need to make a frame. It is mainly made from, but sometimes you can apply environmental material- wood. Drywall on a wooden frame is mounted in the case of 100% certainty that the tree will not be deformed from moisture and the wooden blocks will be treated from pests.

For the installation of drywall using a frame made of wood and metal profiles

The tree has the ability to change its size when sharp drops temperature, at high humidity air. When sheathing the frame with drywall, when it finishing, the wood frame will breathe air that enters the section between the wall and drywall. Therefore, first of all, a wooden frame for drywall is mounted in a room where the walls are dry and there is no moisture. The use of wood saves space, this has always been an important point. Every person wants to leave the space of the room.

Very often, a wooden frame is placed in private wooden houses and in log houses. With proper treatment of wood, it will last a long time.

There is a method of attaching drywall to wooden ceiling(wall) without frame. In this case, a number of facts should be taken into account:

Wood quality.
Room humidity.
Wood processing.

The tree "breathes", so it is likely that the drywall will deform or burst. Therefore, before attaching to wooden base ceiling, you should think carefully about this step.

For greater confidence in the guarantee of a wooden frame, the timber is treated with drying oil. In this case, it does not swell when exposed to moisture and does not shrink in dry and hot air.

In dry rooms, it is possible to create a partition based on a wooden frame sheathed with plasterboard.

Necessary tools and material in the work

To work with a wooden beam, tools and materials are needed, without which it is impossible to make a wooden frame with your own hands:

Ordinary hammer.
A set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver.
Construction knife and blade set.
Drill, if the walls are made of concrete or brick.
Saw.
Meter or tape measure.
Ruler and pencil.
Laser level or normal.
Dowels, wood screws and ordinary screws.

Drying oil or other antiseptic solution for wood processing.
Primer, preferably with additives.
Insulating material - polystyrene foam, mineral wool.
Putty, reinforced tape.
Roller, brush.
A set of spatulas.

Selection and preparation of wood for the frame

In order to make a frame from a wooden beam with your own hands, you need to choose the type of wood. Not every tree will fit this design. The best option is needles.

Surface preparation

When starting to install a frame made of wooden bars, you should prepare the surface. For this you will need:

Cleaning the wall from the old finish

A very important point is the preparation of the surface and the identification of wet spots. The wall must be dry and even.

markup

Marking is applied to the prepared dry wall and a drawing is made for the future design:

measure the length and height of the wall on which the structure will be made;
using these numbers, the perimeter of the room is calculated (the length must be multiplied by the height);
all received numbers are transferred to a sheet of paper. First, on paper, and on the wall, horizontal and vertical lines are drawn, along which the bars for the frame under the drywall will be laid;
fixing points should be noted.

With the help of the drawing made and the markings applied, the frame will turn out to be even and rigid (without movements and vibrations).

Wooden frame assembly

Before you start fixing the wooden beams with your own hands, for the future frame, you need to use plumb lines to beat off points on the ceiling and on the floor, which will form a clearly horizontal surface. Now:

Fastening drywall to the finished frame

The next step is to install drywall on a wooden frame. Sheathing begins with whole sheets. Drywall is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. Mounting step 30 cm.

The joints of the sheets horizontally should be in a checkerboard pattern, that is, one sheet is even, the second is cut by 20 cm and when attached it will be lower, the cut-off GKL bar should be attached at the very top. The open area should be sealed with drywall cut to size. The edge of the drywall sheet must be exactly wooden beam.

Finishing

After the GKL sheathing step wooden structure, the next step is the finishing of the plasterboard. First you need to process and seal the seams. If a chamfer was not made when sheathing with drywall, then construction knife grooves should be cut at the joints of the sheets, with a depth of about 0.5–0.8 mm. These grooves should be cleaned of excess cardboard and treated with a primer. For such work, a brush is suitable. The primer must be completely dry before gluing. reinforced tape and patching with putty.

Putty should be applied in a thin layer, covering not only the seam with the tape, but also the attachment points. After the putty has dried, using sandpaper all excess pebbles are removed. The sealed seams should be in the same plane with the entire surface (do not protrude).

After the putty has dried, all drywall surface should be treated with a soil mixture. This will improve the adhesion of the putty and prevent moisture from penetrating into the GCR.

After filling the surface, as well as complete drying, with sandpaper, wipe the entire surface.

Now drywall wall on the basis of a wooden frame, it is completely ready for further decoration.