How to attach hangers to the ceiling. Mounting to the ceiling of various designs Way of attaching hangers to the ceiling

Not so long ago, the construction world learned about such material as drywall. It immediately gained popularity because it has a number of advantages, for example, ease of installation, large quantity areas of application and, of course, low cost. The technology of installing drywall sheets is so simple that anyone can handle it. One of the most popular applications is ceiling decoration. Installation of false ceilings from HL is not challenging task. It just takes a little patience and perseverance.

Installing suspended plasterboard ceilings is not a difficult task.

Suspended ceiling technology

The whole process can be divided into several stages:

• stage of preparation and calculations;
• markup stage;
• frame installation stage;
• the stage of direct installation of drywall;
• final stage.

At the first stage, it is necessary to prepare both the material itself and the base. Material must be purchased from required quantity and clean the base. This is especially true for ceilings covered with whitewash and paint. In some places, she began to peel off. Such paint must be cleaned so that it does not then fall on drywall sheets from above. This completes the preparation. To purchase material, you need to know exactly how much of it is required, as well as understand what exactly is needed.

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Material and tool

Of the tools you may need the following:

• hydraulic level or laser level for applying even markings;
• tape measure for various measurements;
• screwdriver for fastening dowel-nails and self-tapping screws;
• spatula for filling joints of sheets;
• stationery knife for cutting drywall sheets.

If the frame is planned to be made of wood, then you will also need a hacksaw for wood. From the materials you will need the following items:

• metal profiles, namely: the UD-27 guide profile, which is called the perimeter, and the CD-60 rack profile, which is called the carrier;
• suspensions that are needed to fix the carrier profile on the ceiling;
• self-tapping screws 0.7 cm for fixing the profile on the hangers, as well as the profile in the connectors and dowel-nails for fixing the hangers to the ceiling and the perimeter to the walls;
• drywall.

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Example of building material calculation

Material should be purchased by 10 percent more than calculated as a stock.

Let's assume that the room has dimensions of 2.4 m by 4 m. Then it will be easy to calculate how much of what material is needed. Knowing that the perimeter is attached around the perimeter of the room, its total length will be: 2.4 * 2 + 4 * 2 \u003d 12.8 m. Since the profile is sold in pieces of three meters, only 4 pieces are required. In addition, given that the room is 4 m long, a connector will be needed on each side. Since for a standard drywall sheet, device technology false ceiling provides for a maximum distance between the carrier profiles of 40 cm, you can easily calculate how much such a profile is needed. You need to fix it across the room, that is, perpendicular to the drywall sheets. It is easy to guess that in total 11 strips of 2.4 m each are required, that is, 26.4 m of the rack profile. Now it remains to count only the number of drywall sheets. standard sheet drywall has dimensions: 2 m long and 1.2 m wide. This means that exactly four sheets of drywall are required for the ceiling.

It is worth noting that in the example numbers are taken for ease of calculation. In practice, it is necessary to add another 10 percent to the obtained values ​​\u200b\u200bas a margin.

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Direct installation of false ceiling

The drywall sheet should be fixed every 15-20 cm.

So, after all the calculations, you can get to work. First you need to apply markup. If you have a laser level, then this will be very easy to do. If not, then you can use the water level. First, all heights in the corners are measured. This must be done, since very often all four values ​​\u200b\u200bdiverge. If so, then of these four values, you need to find the minimum. In the relevant minimum height corner from the ceiling, we measure the amount of lowering the false ceiling from drywall. As a rule, this value lies in the range from 5 to 12 cm. Having measured this value, it is necessary to put marks on both sides of the corner, that is, on two walls.

Further, using the water level, we put marks on all other corners. If the work is performed by one person, then using this level is not very convenient. In this case, you can make marks in each corner. Only in each next corner you need to put a mark not on the amount of lowering, but on the sum of this value and the difference in heights in the corners. For example, if one corner has a height of 2.5 m, and this minimum value, and the second - 2.55 m, then in the first corner we put a mark, stepping back from the ceiling only 10 cm, and in the second already 10 + 5 cm. Then, using a long rail and the usual level, we check the evenness of these marks. If necessary, then you need to make some adjustments. After that, the markings on the walls are completed. The markings on the ceiling are only to indicate the attachment points for crabs and suspensions.

The distance between the transverse profiles should be 40 cm.

If the ceiling area is more than 20 sq. m, then installation is required not only of transverse profiles, but also of longitudinal ones, that is, a lattice of profiles is arranged. The distance between the transverse profiles should be 40 cm, as already noted, and between the longitudinal ones it is allowed to make 60 cm. At the intersection of the profiles, it is required to install crabs - connecting elements that have four inlets located at right angles to each other.

On straight sections, the installation of conventional suspensions is required. The frequency of their installation is 40 cm. At this stage, the markup can be considered completed. Next comes the step of the frame device. First, the perimeter is attached. We fasten the perimeter to the walls along the broken line or along the marked risks with the help of dowel-nails. The fastening step should be equal to 40 cm.

If the perimeter is short, then it should be extended with a connector. This element is inserted inside two profiles and attached to each of them on "bugs" - self-tapping screws, having a length of only 7 mm and specially designed for fastening the profiles to each other. The second step of this stage is the installation of suspensions. They are attached directly to the ceiling with dowel-nails. If the ceiling is wooden, then you can use wood screws. A self-tapping screw length of 3.2 cm is enough.

After attaching all the suspensions and crabs, a cord is pulled between two opposite walls. It is attached with one end to the perimeter from below, and with the other end in exactly the same place, but on the opposite wall. This cord will indicate the position of the bottom edges of each carrier profile. Thus, the rack profiles fixed along the cord will always lie in one horizontal plane. So, it remains only to proceed with the installation of the carrier profile.

Ceiling profiles are fastened along a stretched cord. During installation, it is constantly necessary to control the horizontalness of each individual profile. It is necessary to fasten the profile to the suspensions on the above "bugs". Since a standard suspension can have a length of each whisker of 12 cm, and the amount of lowering of the ceiling can be less, then on each side of the profile there remains a part of the whisker below its edge. These whiskers fold back into different sides away from the profile. Thus, after filing the suspended ceiling with drywall, they will remain inside the frame.

After the completion of this work, the installation technology of suspended ceilings provides for the next step - the installation of drywall sheets. However, it will not be superfluous to make a control check of the evenness of each profile individually and in the aggregate of adjacent profiles. If the frame turned out to be even, you can proceed with the installation of drywall sheets. Before you fix a particular sheet, you need to chamfer from its edges. It is removed at an angle of 45 degrees, to a depth of approximately 3 millimeters. Drywall sheets are fed up and fixed. It is possible to fasten sheets with a thickness of 9 mm on self-tapping screws with a length of 15 mm.

It should be noted that there are two types of drywall: wall and ceiling. Sheet ceiling plasterboard has a thickness of 9 mm, or slightly more (9.5 mm). But the wall thickness is 12 mm. Some experts recommend installing wall drywall on the ceiling, arguing that the ceiling can sag. However, if the drywall installation technology is followed, it will not sag. And to reduce the load on the ceiling, it is better to use ceiling, thin drywall.

So, the drywall sheet should be fixed every 15-20 cm. In this case, the screws must be screwed in at least a cm from the edge of the cut, which was formed as a result of chamfering. Each fastener is screwed into a drywall sheet to a depth of 2-3 mm. It is impossible to leave the screw head on the surface, but also screw it very deeply - this can lead to the breakdown of the resulting thread, which, in turn, leads to the inefficiency of such fasteners.

Care must be taken when working with drywall, as it is very fragile in itself. It is better to install drywall sheets together, and even better three together - two people hold the sheet on both sides, and the third performs its fastening. If there is a need to cut the sheet, then this can be done with the help of a clerical knife. First, a cutting line is drawn, and then, under a flat rail, it is drawn several times with a knife with great effort. When upper layer cardboard and part of the gypsum itself will be cut, the sheet can be taken for a break at the place of the cut. It will break right down to him. Then it remains only to cut the second layer of cardboard. After that, the suspended ceiling device technology provides for a final step. It consists in filling all the places where the screws are screwed in, as well as the seams that formed two adjacent drywall sheets. It was for this purpose that chamfers were removed from them in advance. On this, the suspended ceiling device can be considered complete.

It should be added that all communications, in particular electrical wires, should be taken care of in advance. All wiring must be laid under drywall sheets before they are installed. And the attachment points of turned lamps must be noted in advance. Thus, it is clear that the installation of a false ceiling in your home can occur independently. However, it is better to work not alone, but in a group of at least two people.

When installing lightweight suspended structures, dowel-nails are used - ready-made fasteners. They are easily and quickly attached to the wall, and shelves, paintings, mirrors, lamps, etc. are hung on them. Widely used in repair and finishing work, for example, when installing the GKL frame.

A dowel-nail consists of two elements: a dowel that is inserted into a hole in the wall, and a nail that is driven or screwed into the dowel when there is a thread on the rod. The cap has a slot, usually for a Phillips screwdriver. Polypropylene dowels are suitable for installation in heated rooms, nylon dowels are able to withstand sub-zero temperatures so they can even be used outdoors.

You can use a dowel-nail for concrete, brick and foam concrete, it all depends on the design of the dowel. According to this principle, the following types are distinguished.

• Spacers- are fixed due to the expansion of the sleeve in the hole, its relief surface limits the movement of the dowel.
• Universal- fastened in the hole due to the knot that is formed during twisting.

When buying dowel-nails, pay attention to their the size. The diameter can be from 5 to 8 mm - the larger it is, the heavier objects the fasteners can withstand. The most common dowel nails for fastening profile frame plasterboard in concrete size 6x40.

The length of the nail can be from 40 to 120 mm - the longer it is, the more securely it will hold the suspended structure. Also consider number of fasteners in the package and make a choice based on the upcoming scope of work. If you need to put one shelf and several paintings, a package of 6 to 10 pieces will suffice. When you need to fasten a lot of items, it is better to take products with a margin, for example, 100 - 150 pieces.

Dowel-nail for plasterboard

When using drywall, you should choose the right fasteners. Not only the strength of the created structure depends on this factor, but also the appearance, the service life of the structure, its specifications- Is it possible to weight this design with various objects. For mounting the GKL frame. The type and number of selected dowels-nails depends on the type of frame, the selected profiles, they differ in the thickness of the material from which they are made, the material of the walls and ceiling. (Foam concrete, shell rock, concrete, brick, etc.)

For mounting a metal frame, not only self-tapping screws are purchased, but also dowel-nails. These fasteners create the strength of the entire frame for drywall. To use these fasteners, you should familiarize yourself with their characteristics. Improper use may adversely affect the metal frame.

Dowel-nail classification

In order to purchase a dowel-nails, factors should be considered:

1. Estimated load on the fastener, on the surface itself.
2. The base into which the dowel-nail will be attached is concrete, brick.
3. Surface - ceiling, wall.

The fastener is heterogeneous and is available in various sizes and structures.

Mounting differences

Depending on the structural structure, the dowel with nails should be worked with various tools.

Manual fixation of the dowel-nail - in this case, 2 types of dowel-nails with different structures are used. Nails without thread are driven in with an ordinary hammer. Threaded - you will need a screwdriver to screw in or a screwdriver.

Fixing the building- . For this type of installation, dowel-nails with a metal sleeve are applicable. They are made to carry more weight.

Dowel-nail sizes

The fastener is made various sizes. Depending on the purpose, you should purchase a dowel-nail of the required size. Fasteners are marked with two numbers: the first shows the diameter, the second - the length of the fastener.

Technical indicators of the dowel-nail

According to the indicators of GOST 28457-90, dowel-nails are produced. They are processed - hardness 53-56HRC. But they may have a deviation of 51/5HRC.

1. The rod can be bent according to the factory settings: at a length of 50mm. – 0.1mm curvature; length over 50mm. – 0.15mm.
2. The nail should not have rolls or cracks. The nail must be sharp if the dullness is 0.8 mm. - it is considered unsuitable.
3. On the tip of a nail, versatility is possible.
4. There may be a washer on the nail. Its shift requires a force of 0.3kN.

Dowel nails are produced with an anti-corrosion zinc layer. It should be no less than 6 microns.

What is a dowel-wedge metal

This fastener is called the metal wedge anchor. It is made from metal. The word "anchor" is translated as "anchor".

The metal dowel for drywall has a different mounting technology. The movable part of the fastener is driven in with a hammer, due to which the dowel is wedged in the surface.

According to GOST, 2 types of metal dowels for drywall are produced: 6/40 and 6/60, where 6 is the diameter in mm., 40 (60) is the length in mm. Anchor-wedge comes on sale in packs - 100, 200 pcs.

How to hammer a metal dowel wedge quickly with a puncher, watch the video.

Features of the wedge anchor

The wedge anchor is made of galvanized steel or stainless steel. Carbon steel is used, coated with white zinc or yellow color. The head of the anchor has a manufacturer's mark indicating the density of the metal used.

Basically, these metal wedge fasteners are made for fastening profiles or suspensions to the base and are the recommended fastening.

The wedge anchor is made in the form of a metal rod. There is a locking cap on one end, and a wedge-shaped spacer end cap on the other. When mounting, an anchor is placed in the hole made and its moving part is hammered with a hammer. In this case, the wedges diverge in different directions, thereby fixing the fastener in the ceiling. Anchor-wedge differs in special reliability of fastening to the basis.

Factors affecting the strength of the structure

In order for the anchor wedge to have a long shelf life and also retain strength, there are some factors that affect these indicators:

1. Anchor wedge is driven into the base, which does not have voids. Thus, the fastening strength appears.
2. At high humidity concrete base will constantly absorb moisture, which may cause premature corrosion of the metal.
3. If there is constant pressure (movement, vibration) on the base in which the anchor wedge is mounted, the wedge will soon break out.
4. If the movable part, the rod, remains above the surface, this means that the anchor has not fully opened. At the same time, the service life is limited.
5. Fasteners not allowed chemical solutions. They will destroy the fastener.

Comparative table with which you can determine the fastening strength of the anchor wedge:

Separately, it should be noted that fire safety all suspended structures are supposed to be fixed with metal wedge anchors.

Base for dowel nails and anchor wedge

In order for the fastener to have a long service life, you should know what the base should be:

1. Reinforced concrete ceiling- plates in apartment buildings.
2. Concrete - floor in an apartment or poured concrete in a private house.
3. Solid brick. There are several types of this material: ceramic, silicate, clinker brick. Each material has its own density, the service life of fasteners depends on this. Such material can be encountered in private buildings.
4. Foam concrete blocks. In the absence of a cavity in them, it is required to know the density of the foam block.

Dowel-nails, anchor wedges are not mounted in wooden base, as well as in walls made of foam blocks and other hollow materials. Since the spacer elements will not be fixed in the base, but mainly in the void, which will not give the required strength.

How to properly attach a profile to the wall

Before attaching a metal profile to the wall, you should have a set of tools and materials:

Profile - the guide profile is mostly galvanized. This gives reliability in the created design. The calculation is made using or on your own. The material must be taken with a margin.

Dowel nails for attaching the profile - for solid wall size 6/40. If the basis is wood, then 25mm self-tapping screws are applicable.

Drill with 6mm drill. and a screwdriver. Before use electric tools, it is required to calculate the load on the wiring.

Scissors for cutting metal. In the process of mounting the guide profile, it is sometimes necessary to make an incision on metal product or cutting it off.

Installation of the guide profile

To carry out the installation of the guide profile, a prepared surface with ready markings is required. How to fix the profile to the wall? Installation is carried out in the following algorithm of actions:

1. First of all, the guide profile is applied to the markup (the line can pass as inside, and from the outside - depending on the emerging nuances)
2. Next, on the profile, you need to mark the places for future fasteners. Basically, it is required to retreat from the edge of the profile up to 15 cm. Maximum, the second fastener is located 25 cm. from the first and so on - every 25cm.
3. If there are no holes in the profile, they are made independently. Even if there are data marked places by the factory, according to the masters, one should be made exactly in the middle between the holes for structural strength.
4. The drill diameter should be 6 mm and its length 50 mm. if the drill is longer, you should mark a border on it, this is easy to do with electrical tape or tape.
5. A plastic dowel is inserted into the hole made both in the base and in the profile. It is hammered into place with a hammer. This should be done carefully, as deformation may occur during its installation. Then the plastic part will become unusable.
6. After mounting the first plastic part of the dowel, a threaded nail is mounted with a screwdriver. The deeper the nail enters the component, the more it opens, fixing all fasteners with special antennae.
7. If the profile is longer than required, it is cut with scissors for metal.
8. If you need to finish the profile, then you can use special extensions.
9. On the border of the profiles, retreat 15 cm from each end and fix the guide dowel-nails.

The screwdriver should not be set at high speed, so as not to drive the nail more than it is laid into the plane, while bending the profile.

The guide profile is an integral part of the entire metal structure for drywall, so its fixation must be strong and of high quality.

Or fixing the frame, similar in technology.

Fixing suspensions to the ceiling under drywall

What hangers are attached to drywall construction? Many will answer this question "dowel-nails are used." This is wrong, because the suspension takes on the load of the entire plasterboard ceiling. When hanging gravity, over time, the dowel nail does not withstand and comes out of the surface. The result is sagging and deformation of the suspended ceiling. According to experts, the wedge anchor is the best fastener. How to attach suspensions for a profile? For the strength of the erected structure, the metal wedge anchor, size 6/40, is fixed in the side holes of the suspension. Installation is carried out as follows:

1. According to the intended markings, a hole with a diameter of 6 mm is made on the ceiling, the depth of the hole is 40 mm.
2. This hole is free from dust (you can blow it yourself).
3. A suspension is attached to the holes made.
4. The anchor-wedge is inserted into the suspension eye and the hole until it stops.
5. After that, a protruding rod is driven in with an ordinary hammer. With every blow, he gets tighter and tighter. concrete surface. This suggests that the anchor elements are straightened in different directions, thereby fixing the entire fastener.

Installation of one anchor takes 10 seconds. Such fixation of suspensions is the most durable compared to the use of dowel-nails.

Through what distance to fix suspensions for a profile? The strength of a plasterboard suspended ceiling directly depends on the suspensions. Hangers are mounted on a marked line intended for the ceiling profile. On this line, every 40-60 cm, suspensions are attached with anchor wedges. The distance depends on the suspension material. If the metal is thin, then the distance will be 40 cm, respectively.

It is allowed to use dowels when creating a box on the ceiling. This design does not weigh down the dowel-nail due to the low weight of the drywall box.

Video how to properly attach the suspension

Mounting Features

When mounting the dowel-nails of the profile to the walls, certain difficulties may arise. To avoid this, you should familiarize yourself with certain nuances:

1. When installed in brick wall the place of the dowel-nail should be determined. If the fastener gets on the border (in the mortar) between the brick, then there is a high probability that it will pop out. Since the solution may crumble.
2. Before drilling the wall, you should know for sure that wires do not pass there. electrical wiring. Otherwise, a short circuit will occur.
3. If the wall passes metal fittings, this will also negatively affect the hole making.
4. For the correct mounting of the dowel-nail, it is required to make holes with a diameter the same as the dowel (6mm.).
5. You need to drill the wall at a low speed so that the material from the surface does not come out in a single piece, while a large hole is formed.
6. When driving the dowel, the restrictive cuff will prevent the fastener from falling into the hole. Therefore, the dowel should be hammered in carefully.

If the hole turned out to be large and the dowel does not hold, this can be fixed in the following ways:

• screw a self-tapping screw nearby;
• if possible, drill with a large diameter with the choice of the appropriate dowel;
• insert a plastic dowel and drip a little there polyurethane foam. Overnight, it will increase, press the plastic part and harden. Only after that you can screw a nail in there and remove excess foam;
• squeeze liquid nails into the hole;
• insert the plastic part of the dowel-nail into the hole, apply plaster. It will dry overnight, then screw in the nail.

On the ceiling structure for a suspended ceiling, it is better to use an iron wedge anchor, because in case of a fire it does not melt, but holds metal structure. And for reliable fastening of direct ceiling hangers, this the best way structure retention.

But, if the ceiling is leveled with drywall in an old panel house, then a plastic dowel-nail can be used. It is better wedged and holds the metal frame.

In addition, read for fastening directly to the GKL sheet.

The margin of safety is set by numerous points of attachment of parts to each other and their connections with the bearing surfaces of the floors with walls.
An example of attaching a ceiling profile to concrete

Scheme with dimensions for fixing ceiling profiles

Ceiling profiles are fastened during the assembly of the base under the entire length of the part, as well as to previously installed guides.
How is this done, what is needed and what nuances have to be considered?

If it is quite enough to choose only the fastening material corresponding to the material of the walls, then it is more and more difficult with ceiling rails. After all, it is necessary to connect the various parts of the frame to each other. So what fasteners do you need?

This is how vibration suspensions for mounting a ceiling profile look like

An example of attaching a profile to simple suspensions

self-tapping screws

Connecting the majority metal parts frame to each other. Moreover, such hardware is needed quite a large number of and different names.

• press washers and bedbugs (fleas). It's two different types self-tapping screws for metal. The first ones have a wide hat and a larger size, the second small hardware with parameters up to 10 mm. For you can use suitable option.
  However, on planes where fleas will subsequently be preferred, their small caps do not interfere with the installation of the skin. Such fasteners are used for connecting ceiling and guide profiles to each other, as well as for fixing to the base rails;
  Profile connection example
  
  
• . By appearance this is an ordinary self-tapping screw with a plastic dowel, however, with its own mounting technology. They are not screwed in, but hammered with a hammer or an impact drill. For this, the tip of the dowel-nails has a sharpening, and not a gimlet. Such hardware is necessary for attaching direct suspensions to the surface of the building floor. You can also use a wedge anchor as an analogue for fixing suspensions.
  This is what the dowel-nails for the profile look like
  
  
  
  The process of attaching the profile to the dowel

It is important to make sure that dowels - nails provide a secure fixation in the thickness of the ceiling, they are not suitable for ceilings that have a fragile structure, for example, in old houses with clay-wooden ceilings!

Additional elements

Hangers. The type of fastening that will be required in (U-shaped suspensions). They provide the connection of the entire structure with the load-bearing floor.

Hanger dimensions drawing for profiles


Most often in residential buildings, direct suspensions are used - metal plates with perforations. But, this part can only be used with a small distance from the ceiling to the ceiling (usually 125 mm).

If you need to significantly lower the level suspended structure use suspensions with traction, allowing you to fix the ceiling profile at a distance of up to 1000 mm from the plane.

An example of attaching a ceiling profile to suspensions

The process of attaching suspensions by level


And also in some cases it is quite possible to replace the suspensions with homemade products from a guide profile for drywall, cut to size with bends for attaching the rails.
In the process of assembling the false ceiling frame, you may also need such elements as:

• for fixing the ceiling profile and transverse rails in the same plane;
  Crab connector dimension drawing
  
  
• Double layer connectors. Unlike the first option, they provide fastening of intersecting frame rails superimposed on one another;
  This is what a two-level connector looks like
  
  
  
  
• Extensions. They are necessary in the case of end connections of two;
  Scheme with the dimensions of the extension for the profile
  
  
  
  
• T-connector. The part is necessary when joining profiles at a right angle, as well as in fixing ceiling rails with guides.
  
  
  

Within the framework of the article, we will consider the methods of fastening for suspended ceilings of three popular designs: plasterboard; from PVC wall panels and rack. We are interested in both the structures of these types of suspended ceilings and the methods of their reliable fixation to the ceiling.

Drywall

Before us is one of the most common solutions in our time.

There are many reasons for this:

• Both drywall and profiles for it are relatively affordable.
• The material allows you to create ceilings arbitrarily complex shape, including curved surfaces.
• Drywall compares favorably with polymers in that it is not afraid of heating up to quite high temperatures. The same PVC panels, say, it is better not to heat up to more than 80C. Dignity seems far-fetched to you? Think about the popularity of recessed lamps with halogens and incandescent lamps.

Attention: in fairness, the use of strong heat sources with drywall is also undesirable. It can lead to cracks at the seams between sheets due to uneven expansion.

• Finally, the use of drywall forgives oversights with the material pattern: a wide seam or an unevenly cut corner of the sheet is easy to putty.

Mounting diagram

So all the same, what is the design of a suspended plasterboard ceiling?

• To assemble the frame, first of all, two types of profile are needed - the so-called UD and CD - and suspensions. In some cases, the design, however, can do without suspensions.
• A horizontal line is marked along the perimeter of the room at the height of the ceiling, along which the UD profile is mounted. Mounting step - 40-60 centimeters.
• The CD profile can be mounted in two ways. Either a square crate is created over the entire ceiling area with a step of 60 centimeters, or along the length of the sheets with a step of now 40 centimeters, the profile is mounted in one direction.

• A plasterboard sheet is hemmed from below to the profiles fixed in level with self-tapping screws. Then the seams between the sheets are reinforced with a reinforcing mesh tape or bandaged with paper; all irregularities and caps of self-tapping screws are puttied at least twice, and drywall is primed before painting or wallpapering.
• Plasterboard suspended ceiling fixture concrete floor performed with ordinary screws 60x4 mm with plastic dowels. Wooden chopsticks should not be used even in dry rooms. The profile is attached to the tree with ordinary self-tapping screws 50-100 millimeters long.
• If you plan to make the structure multi-tiered - the frame of the ceiling levels located below is hemmed exclusively to the profiles upper tier. In no case not to drywall: in this case, the ceiling will inevitably collapse sooner or later.

Useful little things

The design of suspended ceilings based on gypsum board and galvanized profile is quite simple, and no special skills are required for its installation (see Plasterboard structures on the ceiling - design and installation).

However, some points are better to remember.

• It should take about a hundred self-tapping screws to fasten a whole sheet of drywall. in. On straight sections, the step between adjacent ones is 25 cm, on curved sections - 15.
• The edges of adjacent sheets must ALWAYS be fixed to the same profile.. If this is not possible with the longitudinal arrangement of CD profiles, the exit is simple. The first sheet is hemmed; then a profile is hemmed to its edge so that half of its width protrudes beyond the edge; then the next sheet is sewn.
• It is obligatory to reinforce the seams, otherwise cracks are guaranteed for a maximum of two years.

• To obtain a curved surface of a large radius, it is enough to wet a drywall sheet with water and hold for two to three hours. For small radius bends, the sheet is trimmed from the outside.
• A multi-tiered ceiling can also be obtained without mounting the frames of the second tier, simply by hemming one or two sheets of drywall cut from the bottom to the first level, cut according to the template you need. Of course, it is also sewn strictly to the profile.

PVC panels

The next design is a homemade ceiling based on PVC wall panels. The material provides fewer opportunities compared to drywall, but it is very cheap and easy to install.

What will the suspended ceiling mount look like in this case?

Mounting diagrams

stand apart wooden houses. In their case, the easiest way to file the ceiling is to attach it to a wooden crate made of a bar measuring about 30x30 millimeters. Of course, the method is intended exclusively for dry rooms.

If a ceiling beams located high enough, you can not assemble the crate in the space between them, but hem the panels directly to the beams.

Important: the step between the attachment points should not be more than 50, and even better 40 centimeters. Otherwise, you risk that the panels will sag under their own weight after some time.

Well, what about an ordinary city apartment with its reinforced concrete floor panels?

Here we have two options:

• In dry rooms with constant temperature and humidity, you can again mount a wooden crate. The bar is hemmed to the ceiling with an interval of 40 centimeters perpendicular to the direction of the panels without any hangers.

Minor height differences can be easily compensated by placing any gasket of the appropriate thickness between the bar and the draft ceiling; the horizon of the crate is easy to check with a level.

Before filing, it is still desirable to treat the bar with an antiseptic and proliferate: then the ceiling is guaranteed to not rot and deform for a long time.

• For rooms with unstable temperature or high humidity best mount for a suspended ceiling made of PVC panels - again a galvanized profile. The basic principles of its installation are the same as in the case of drywall, but there is a difference.

The CD profile is mounted - on suspensions or to the ceiling - only perpendicular to the panels. Step - 40-50 centimeters. In small-width rooms, you can do without suspensions, even with a large distance between the suspended and draft ceilings.

The CD profile is attached to the UD profile around the perimeter of the room. Its rigidity, combined with the low weight of the panels, will not allow the ceiling to sag (see also How to make a ceiling from PVC panels: basic operations and possible problems)

Useful little things

• And in this case, an excellent fastener for a false ceiling in case reinforced concrete floor- screws 60x4 in combination with plastic dowels. If for some reason you are forced to large plot ceiling to a small number of suspensions, it is a good idea to replace them with anchors.


• The ceiling is framed from panels with both a special profile and a regular one. ceiling plinth. In the latter case, where less problems with fastening of the last panel: it can be hemmed with self-tapping screws anywhere, the caps will still be hidden by the plinth.
• The use of panels eliminates the need for a UD profile around the perimeter. It is desirable but not required. The remaining gap between the panels and the wall is again easy to hide with a ceiling baguette.

rack ceiling

Aluminum rails are another popular material, however, they provide their own fastening format. rack ceiling. Factory-made traverses cannot be replaced with either a bar or a drywall profile.

Why are rack flows so good?

After all, they are noticeably more expensive than the two options we considered earlier?

• The material of the rails themselves that form the false ceiling is aluminum. A material that is not afraid of corrosion in high humidity conditions and does not change its physical properties with time.

Fasteners rack ceiling is either again aluminum profiles or galvanized steel construction. The choice of material makes such a ceiling almost eternal: it will exist without any repair for as long as the building costs.

• Flooding from above is also not terrible. The ceiling is easy enough to wipe with a sponge with any detergent.

Please note: in fairness, the latter quality can be fully attributed to the ceiling of PVC panels on a galvanized profile.

Mounting diagram

How to fix a rack ceiling?

The main stages of installation are very similar to the assembly of the previous two structures based on a galvanized profile.

• A guide profile is attached along the perimeter of the wall, which will hide the edges of the panels.
• Traverses are hung strictly horizontally on the suspensions, to which, in fact, the rails are to be attached. The type of suspension depends on the material of the traverses and on the distance to the ceiling. The same suspensions that mount the drywall profile can be used; they are used with galvanized combs.

The aluminum profile is hung on special spring hangers; at a distance from draft ceiling over 7-10 centimeters, extension needles are added. By the way, it is better to bend the free ends of the spokes: this simple operation will not allow the ceiling to fall under any circumstances.

• How to fix a suspended ceiling from rails to traverses? Simply by putting in place and snapping each rail. At the same time, at walls parallel to the rails, you will have to cut them not only in length, but also in width.
• The use of perforated rails will allow you not to display ventilation duct below the ceiling: air will escape into the perforations. However, this solution is not suitable for kitchens with gas stoves. Small perforations will quickly overgrow with soot.
• Slatted ceilings fit perfectly in bathrooms, toilets, kitchens, corridors and hallways, but for a bedroom or living room this is not The best decision. Just in terms of looks.

Useful little things

You can read more in the article Aluminum suspended ceilings - types, scope, installation features

Conclusion

We have considered only a few types of structures from the whole variety of suspended ceilings. However, they are the most typical in terms of attachment. It seems that you will not have problems with other types of ceilings. Good luck with the repair!

potolokspec.ru

Features of installing a false ceiling in small rooms.

Nomit on suspensions and fasten the frame only to the walls. In order for the ceiling not to have to be redone, you need to draw up a layout for the profiles. To do this, on a piece of paper.
profiles and suspensions. One of the most common mistakes when installing a ceiling is insufficient preparation of the ceiling surface for installation. Before proceeding.
#1072; plastering and, if necessary, re-plastering the ceiling surface.

We begin the installation of the ceiling by fixing the main profile along the perimeter of the wall. We mark the walls with a colored thread. Further, the markings also need to be applied to the ceiling, be sure to mark the location of the suspensions. Then we take the profile, apply it to the wall at the mark. We insert a 6mm drill into the puncher and make holes through the profile and hammer in the dowel - nails ( quick installation) 60x40. We make holes no more than 500 mm.

If the walls are curved, then the profile needs to be cut a little in several places so that it is tightly pressed against the wall. If the walls are already finished with drywall, then you need to take dowel-nails larger diameter, for example, 80x60, in order to fix the profile directly to the wall.

Photo of fastening the ceiling profile of a false ceiling.

Now we take the ceiling profile and fasten it end-to-end to the guide profile, fixed along the perimeter, in increments of at least 400 mm. In order for the frame to hold firmly, it is attached to the ceiling with suspensions in the form of the letter P.

The scheme of fastening metal profiles to each other and suspensions.

It is worth dwelling in more detail on the choice of suspensions. If there is no beam on the ceiling and the frame can be placed at a height of 120mm from the ceiling, then the use of a direct U-shaped suspension is recommended. If there is a beam or equipment on the ceiling, and the distance between the profile and the ceiling should be more than 120mm, then you need to choose a string suspension or clip-on hanger.

Photo of a string suspension for fastening a false ceiling frame.

If the room is small, for example, a bathroom, then drywall can be mounted directly to the frame without transverse ceiling profiles. But if the room is large, then it is necessary to strengthen the frame with transverse jumpers, which are attached to the profile with special connectors - “crabs”.

Photo connector - "crab".

In order to strengthen the frame, cut out cross bridges and fasten them with the help of connectors in the form of a "crab". It is most convenient to cut a metal profile with metal scissors.

Photo of cutting a profile with scissors for metal.

When the frame is mounted to the ceiling, you can proceed to fixing the drywall sheets. For this, we use 9.6x16mm self-tapping screws. The sheets must be fixed at a distance of at least 150 mm from each other.

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Design features of the system

Understanding what a suspended ceiling device is will allow you to plan an algorithm of work, choose the right materials and components.

Suspended structure can be presented in two versions:

• in a base with a sheet finish that requires finishing;
• on the basis of formed sets that do not need final cladding.

As for the device, it is traditionally:

• frame made of wood or metal profiles;
• heat or sound insulating material;
• finishing.

The latter is implemented in several versions and can be:

• from drywall;
• from PVC panels;
• from finished aluminum cassettes;
• glass, etc.

Regardless of the options for finishing plates, the design allows you to hide defects rough coating, disguise communications and pipes.

Requirements for the room for the installation of the suspension system

The obvious advantages in favor of choosing a false ceiling speak for themselves, but before proceeding with the installation, you need to make sure that the room meets the main requirement for the operation of such systems. It is important that the height of the walls in it is not less than 2.3 meters. Small exceptions are possible, but only if design techniques are used with visual extension space through the use of a glossy surface, correctly placed fixtures.

Average panel ceiling installation hanging type will require about 10 cm of free distance between the panels and the base and up to 5 cm more for mounting panels for lighting.

Drywall construction - how to assemble

A plasterboard suspended ceiling is perhaps the most common option for residential buildings and apartments, regardless of the purpose of the premises. Moisture resistant and mechanical damage, designs are successfully used not only in living rooms and bedrooms, but also in hallways, kitchens and even bathrooms.

It is not difficult to install systems based on GKL, but you need to take into account the laboriousness of the process due to the tangible weight of the material, attaching an assistant to the work.

At the base of the ceiling can be wooden crate, as well as a more practical and durable metal frame based on profiles that are resistant to moisture and temperature changes.

The classic technology for installing a plasterboard ceiling will require minimum set tools. Usually it will be possible to get by with a level, a screwdriver, a spatula, a tape measure, a knife, a planer and a special crown for making large holes. All these tools can be found in the house of every master.

As for the materials, these are several types of profiles necessary for the frame (bearing and transverse), suspensions, corner profile, lintels and plasterboard finishing sheets.

The algorithm for carrying out the work is simple. To begin with, they carry out communications, ventilation, electrical wiring based on the placement electrical appliances, after which, in case of emergency, they restore (clean and prime) the old coating, preventing the destruction of the plaster layer.

After completing the preparation work, they proceed to the main stage - the installation of the frame. Here it is important to follow the basic rules:

1. Frame and communication elements should not contact.
2. Bearing profiles are mounted in increments of 120 cm.
3. The transverse profiles are fixed in increments of 30 cm.

Start the process with markup. To do this, use the level and the usual twine. The indent from the window should be at least 20 cm - such a distance will be needed in the future for the installation of the eaves.

The next step is to assemble the crate. Profiles are attached to the surface of the walls with dowels or screws, if we are talking about natural wood. Loops are screwed in the attachment points for mounting the supporting profiles. On the latter, connecting fasteners for transverse profiles are installed (distance 30 cm).

Further work will depend on the complexity of the design. Will it be single-level or multilevel ceiling. In the second case, the frame of each new level is fixed on the previous one.

The finished frame is trimmed drywall sheets, starting from the central part, using fasteners along the long side of the sheet in increments of 20 cm and along the short side - 30 cm. The extreme plasterboards are mounted with a gap from the wall of no more than 4 mm.

Finishing part - finishing of a surface. This can be painting or wallpapering with the installation of lighting equipment.

In rooms with high level humidity additionally use a waterproof sealant to protect the seams.

Armstrong ceiling systems - installation features

The ease of use of Armstrong systems has led them to new level. Ceilings are in great demand, both for the design of commercial premises and private ones. The structures are durable, not demanding in maintenance, and most importantly, they are simply and quickly mounted on their own.

The installation process begins with a symbolic cleaning of the old coating from peeling layers of paint and whitewash. This must be done so that communications in the inter-ceiling zone can be fixed as reliably as possible.

The next step is to calculate the weight of the structure. It must be understood that it should not exceed 6 kg / m2, otherwise overload on the corner profile cannot be avoided. A precautionary measure in this case may be the indentation of the extreme suspension from the wall in the case of a ceiling mass of up to 4 kg / m2 - by 60 cm, more than 4 kg / m2 - by 45 cm. That is, the heavier the structure, the closer the extreme suspension should be located to Wall.

The frame is constructed according to the same principle as in the case of plasterboard ceiling necessarily with a height of at least 12 cm to maintain the possibility of access to engineering communications in the interceiling space. Ventilation systems, hoods, fixtures are attached to the main ceiling, with the exception of Armstrong fixtures, mounted directly into the ceiling canvas instead of some of the plates.

In case of use additional materials for heat and sound insulation, the number of suspensions is increased.

Plastic suspended ceilings - installation nuances

The main competitor of the plasterboard false ceiling is plastic - no less practical, affordable, presented in different colors and shades. Self-attaching a suspended ceiling based on PVC panels does not require finishing, will take a little time, subject to the algorithm of work.

They begin in the same way as in previous cases with the cleaning and restoration of the main ceiling, where electrical wiring and other communications will be fixed.

At this stage, it must be taken into account that PVC panels not all types of lamps can be combined due to the risk of deformation of the latter.

For the device of the crate, a profile designed for the installation of GKL is suitable. It is most resistant to moisture and temperature fluctuations. They fasten it strictly along the perimeter of the room, along a predetermined line (marking starts in the lowest corner of the room).

To strengthen the ceiling, ceiling profiles on direct suspensions are used (the distance between them is 30 cm). Also fixed around the perimeter decorative corner, or a U-shaped profile for masking the cut edges of PVC panels. For the same purposes, a special plastic cornice, simply fixed with liquid nails.

The first rail is mounted with a comb in the direction of the wall, fastened with metal plates. Holes are additionally prepared for lamps and wiring.

Common errors in the installation of suspended structures

Despite the instructions that indicate how the ceiling is attached, included in the manufacturer's kit, errors that occur during the process are inevitable. Understanding this fact, and most importantly, studying the list of the most frequent mistakes, will improve the quality of work.

One of the main mistakes is carrying out work in ordinary clothes. This is not recommended. A competent approach to business using overalls is necessary for a successful outcome.

Cut ceiling panels near the wall you need to be especially careful using an electric tool.

Another mistake is incorrectly opened boxes with rails. It is important to cut the packaging middle line along the edges, thus preventing damage to the protective film and the edges of the rails.

The installation of a false ceiling is allowed to be carried out at the final stage after the completion of all construction and finishing works. In this case, all communications are laid before the start of work on the frame device.

A common mistake is to install systems with a minimum distance from the main floor to the finishing layer. In fact, it must be at least 10 cm, otherwise the strength of the frame will be in question, not to mention the possibility of hiding communications.

To prevent a decline bearing capacity structures under the influence of the weight of the plates, it is important to install an additional suspension at the junction of the bearing bars. Not less than important point- alignment of the frame with panels. Care must be taken to maintain the squareness of the structure.

It is also considered a mistake to use a grinder to trim the molding. It is correct to do this with metal scissors, unable to damage the paintwork.

And the last nuance is lighting equipment. Installation of massive luminaires on a false ceiling without an appropriate support - gross violation safety technology. It is necessary to remember the norms - the distribution load per m2 of the ceiling is up to 250 g. It is more expedient to mount the luminaires on carrier rails, and air conditioning devices - on additional suspensions.

Unique and varied. Ceilings made with drywall are striking in their originality and originality. The installation of any drywall construction is simple, but it includes details that even a specialist cannot do without. One of these parts is the anchor suspension. It is divided into types.
Existing species hangers for metal profile

Each type has distinctive features, Advantages and disadvantages.

direct suspension

This suspension is applicable in all metal frames for plasterboard lining. It has the following characteristics:

1. Length 30 cm width - 30 mm. Such parameters are made for a profile with dimensions of 60/27 mm.
2. The suspension is made of steel, galvanized. The thickness of the metal is 0.4–1 mm. Basically take the average thickness. They are quite tough and reliable, and also have long term operation.
3. Extended hangers. They are used if it is attached at a distance greater than the standard one. Such suspensions have a length of 52 cm. The item is made to order, and has a high cost.
4. On the suspension, in the center, there is a hole through which it is attached to the base coat.
   Diagram with device dimensions direct suspension

   The suspension is attached to the profiles using small self-tapping screws. Here the main element is the distance from each other. On the ceiling, this distance is 60 cm.

   Direct suspension at a cost does not exceed 10 rubles, which is a big advantage.

   Anchor hanger for ceiling profile

   This type of suspension is used in the installation of plasterboard structures on the ceiling. It is adjustable, which simplifies the work of the master.

   
   

   The video shows how to properly assemble the anchor hanger.
   

   Vibrosuspension for ceiling plasterboard construction

   This is a special anchor hanger:

   

   On the construction market, you can find 4 main types of such a suspension:

   
   

   In a private house, when installing a plasterboard suspended ceiling, the simplest suspensions are used.

   This is enough to absorb sound waves.

   Nonius suspension

   A little-known suspension, but with its help, reliability and strength are given.
   
   It looks like a nonius suspension for a metal profile
   The suspension consists of:

   
   

   Having taken up the installation of the frame of the suspended plasterboard structure on the ceiling, you should carefully study the set of materials and, choosing the optimal components. Let them be expensive, but high-quality and reliable.