Humidity, temperature and ventilation are three interrelated and interdependent characteristics of any bath that determine the comfort and benefits of the soaring procedure. Raising one of them requires changing the others. By varying these values, an optimal microclimate for steamers is achieved.
Normally, the air humidity in a Russian bath is 80-100%, and the temperature is 50-60 degrees Celsius. Such high humidity is perfectly tolerated by the human body.
When does it need to be reduced?
If the stove is incorrectly selected or installed, the temperature regime in the steam room is violated. When the temperature changes more than the specified norm in the Russian bath, the steam becomes “heavy” and intense heat is felt. This happens if the power of the furnace does not correspond to the volume of the steam room. When operating metal stoves with a tank, there are sometimes complaints about an increase in humidity at low temperatures in the steam room (40-45 degrees). Water boils early, when the bath has not yet warmed up.
Therefore, even at the design stage, it is necessary to choose a suitable furnace. An increase in humidity in the bath is possible due to inadequate air exchange.
Ventilation in the log bath was not specially thought out, since the humidity in the street and in the steam room was set approximately the same. The issue was resolved by the building itself. Now there are various modifications to the construction of baths, and ventilation planning should be given special attention. If the bath is already built, sometimes it is necessary to install a forced fan to eliminate this problem.
There is a method to reduce the accumulation of condensate on the ceiling and walls in the bath (and, as a result, increase their service life), as well as to ensure the creation of an adequate steam pocket.
Hot air collects under the ceiling and settles on it. The tree first absorbs moisture, and then stops, and a so-called steam pocket is created. For adequate steam production, the ceiling must be heat-retaining.
To do this, at the construction stage of the bath, the following design should be formed.
When the walls have already been erected, reflective heat-insulating material - penofol - is sewn on them and on the ceiling with a construction stapler. It overlaps in a certain way: one edge overlaps the other to create a continuous layer. Then wide bars are nailed to which eurolining will be attached. As a result, an air gap is created between the inner and outer wall and ceiling cladding.
The blower of the furnace is mounted below the floor level, and the concrete is poured with a slope towards the sewer. Logs are installed in the form of a platform, waterproofing material is laid under them, and floorboards are laid on top. An air gap is also formed under the top layer of the floor.
How does this design work?
Hot steam passes from the room through the eurolining and lingers between it and the penofol layer, creating a steam pocket. When condensation forms due to the temperature difference, it flows down to the floor along the foil. The blower door opens and moist air escapes through the chimney.
So, high humidity in the bath will be comfortable if, at the design stage, you choose the right model and size of the stove and think over ventilation. In order for the bath to last longer and create the right steam pocket, you need to create air gaps in the ceiling, walls and floor.
The increase in humidity in the sauna is due to the water. During heating, the water begins to evaporate, due to which the “Russian bath effect” occurs. Remember going to the bathroom: after you take a shower, the mirror fogs up. The same thing happens in the kitchen if you cook something. A mechanical hood can compensate for this phenomenon, but you get the point. If you turn on only cold water in the shower, the mirror will not fog up. With these simple everyday examples, everyone can see at home that hot water creates humidity. In a sauna, in the absence of water in any form, the heater will only dry the air, because in this case it will work as a heating device that raises the temperature. To create humidity in the steam room, you only need to allow the water to heat up and evaporate. There are many options for this. Let's consider everything.
1. Apply to the stones manually.
Wood and electric heaters have a compartment for loading stones. Splashing a bucket of water on the stones, you can get a short-term increase in humidity. You definitely knew about this method. It is better to splash a small amount of water on well-heated stones. The water must be warm. Cold water will make more noise, but the effect will not increase. Our ultimate goal is to heat the water. And what water is easier and faster to heat? Of course, hot. Cold water will cool the stones more, or even contribute to their destruction. Insufficiently heated stones will not be able to evaporate the water before it reaches the furnace or heating elements. This shortens the life of the heater. For the same reason, do not pour too much water.
Here we explain why you can hit the stones in the electric heater:
There are cases when they give in not only to stones, but also to the body of the furnace, and even to the walls. This should not be done, because. heating efficiency is much less. So you can only spoil the finish and equipment. Consider how much hotter the rocks are than the walls. The wall will never heat the water as much as the stones in the furnace. And the body of the heater, although it heats up much stronger than the walls, is not at all intended to be doused with water.
2. Hit the rocks. Not by hand.
An autodosing device or a simple dispenser will do the job with little or no input from you. Just press a button or pour water.
The device is connected to the water supply and can be mixed with flavors.
Water and fragrance are added to a simple dispenser, which are then dripped onto the stones from a bowl suspended above the stove.
3. Use a bowl or water tank.
Models of heaters with a built-in tank are available for sale. Wood-burning stoves can have a tank located on the side or in front. It has a faucet for draining water.
The water tank can also be installed on the chimney.
Electric heaters can be sold with a water compartment built into the stones.
There is another solution for ready-made saunas: a vaporizer that is inserted into the stones. Such a flask is suitable for any heater. You only have to remove a few stones to build it in.
4. Evaporator, also known as a steam generator. built-in.
When choosing an electric heater, there are models with the words “combi”, “vapor”, “steam”, etc. Such heaters are equipped with an additional compartment for water, in which it is heated from a separate heating element. On the remote control panel from the heater, not only temperature, but also humidity is set. The board has a programmatic dependence of temperature on humidity. Those. at a higher temperature, less humidity will be required to achieve a comfortable sauna microclimate. At a temperature of 90 °C, it will not be possible to withstand 80% humidity, so you will not be able to set these parameters on the remote control.
For special convenience, the heaters can be connected to the water supply for automatic water supply through a flexible hose. Not all models have this feature, so when buying, you need to clarify the availability of such a function.
5. Arrangement of the finished steam room with equipment.
For those cases when the sauna is already installed, you can install a separate device, similar to the one in the heater with a built-in steam generator.
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This solution is also suitable for a sauna with a wood-burning stove. On the remote panel, you can set the humidity. The device also has a temperature sensor, so the system will tell you what humidity can be limited at a given temperature.
It is generally accepted that the sauna is just a hot and dry stove in which a person quickly loses moisture, dries out, overheats, and, as a result, jumps out of the steam room a few minutes after he crossed its threshold. The standard conditions for a sauna are temperatures below 100°C and humidity up to 15%.
The Russian bath is in many ways simpler and softer. The optimum temperature in the steam room of a Russian bath rarely exceeds 65-70°C. If we compare the conditions, we will see that the temperature of the Russian bath and sauna is equally necessary, although it differs by 20-30 ° C, despite the fact that the humidity varies by two to three times. Therefore, the main problem in the Russian bath is not the high degree of air in the steam room, but its excessive waterlogging.
The correct backlog of light steam in a Russian bath, according to experts, is done something like this:
- First of all, the walls of the steam room are heated, what air temperature is needed in the steam room - the owners decide, but most often up to 50 ° C, no more. Thoroughly warm the wooden trim of the steam room, thereby increasing the effectiveness of thermal insulation. Warm walls are the key to light steam in a Russian bath;
- In a warm, but not hot Russian bath, a small container with boiling hot water is installed on the stove in the steam room, which gradually fills the steam room of the bathhouse with light and non-hot steam over the course of an hour;
- After obtaining the necessary humidity, the stove is bred to the maximum and heated on one tab of firewood until it burns out completely. The atmosphere heats up to 65 o C and is stable, coupled with the necessary dryness of the steam for an hour.
This pair will be the easiest and most useful.
Advice! To get a light heat in an ordinary Russian bath, it will be useful to use a steam generator that gives a stream that is not hot, but saturated with small droplets.
The heat in the Russian bath rises slowly and is easily discharged by opening the ventilation valve or an ordinary window.
The best option would be not to let the organization of steam in a Russian bath run by chance, but to competently heat the bathhouse and take a steam bath yourself or with a company, while there is real light steam of a Russian bath in the steam room. Visiting the steam room in several visits is also quite possible, but before each time, the procedure for equalizing humidity and temperature will have to be repeated in a new way. How quickly the steam in the steam room will be “corrected” for a new entry depends on its design and competent management of the heater and the window.
Well ................., I feel not to stir up revelations, then I take the fire upon myself, listen and correct.
The beginning is completely banal, I flooded it and left to do business, the door in the steam room is closed and only it is heated, and I don’t pour any water on the walls, but I turn on the dropper (0.7 liters) as soon as the gun heats up to the desired temperatures, I pour wormwood into the flavor and I leave again. When the temperature in the steam room reaches 45 C, I open the door to the sink and the rest room. My opinion is that volley heating is more effective than gradual. For some time everything stays that way, the stove is heated, all rooms are heated, a dropper with flavoring gives just a crazy wormwood spirit . (For comparison, when pies are baked in the oven and opened for some reason, a hot wave of baked muffin arises, thick and exciting, about the same I experience when I enter the KO from the street and the wave of warm wormwood just intoxicates.). I understand that everything has warmed up and now you can start preparing the steam room. The door is closed and the surface of the walls and ceiling (aspen lining) is sprayed with hot water, the dropper opens a little more. I cover the top row of vents with a bandage. oven holes (Baby) and leave for a short time, then everything repeats, firewood is laid, walls and ceiling are sprayed, a dropper is added and a humidifier is filled (working name) this is a board with inclined blind grooves, it contains a lot of water and very quickly it gives. For reference, I spray with an ordinary flower sprayer for 2 liters, pump it up and water it. It leaves 3 - 4 volumes,
When I understand that the bath is on the way, I go to enjoy it.
After this moment, I transfer the stove to "hungry" combustion, this is when all the air is blocked and the firewood simply smolders.
The temperature is 45 - 47 degrees, the humidity is such that when you lie down on the canopy, sweat appears very quickly, and in the beginning it’s not even sweat, but condensate, which pleasantly tickles the body as it drains. You can lie in this paradise for an infinitely long time and immediately pull you to sleep. I get wet with sleep like a border guard at the post and get awesome pleasure.
Then a shower with soap, a TV chair, tea - kvass. The second entry is almost the same, but first I spray the walls again, a humidifier. The temperature is 47 - 49, everything happens without the participation of a broom, it still hangs dry in KO. and by feeling.
Finally, there is a desire to take a steam bath, the temperature by that time is 55 - 57 degrees, the humidity is sufficient. A broom is in the pipe, a couple of ladles of water on top and it is ready, and the spirit is awesome, like birch, like Oak, though not long. By the way, in a humid steam room, the smell wormwood is felt weaker than in dry and hot.
The broom is ready, the client is warmed up and the ritual begins, sweat is no longer from the condensation of steam, but real, a ladle or steam on the heater, you scoop up fresh steam as much as possible and look after yourself until the body tells you what to do next, and then shower, exit to breathe the street, drink kvass-tea, sit in an armchair by TV.
In short, I spray the walls before, during that and together with the supply. In general, getting humidity at 45 degrees is easier than at 56 - 60. Therefore, I try to re-moisten the steam room from the very beginning, so that later it would keep the norm.
And now about the humidifier, a board, 40 kA with grooves (I already wrote about it), 250 grams of water fits in and evaporates it very quickly. There is a desire to make a humidifier with an area of 1 sq. m and look at the result.
What am I doing wrong?
The most successful combination of temperature and humidity can be considered the option in which you feel the best, as comfortable and relaxed as possible. Much, but not all, depends on physical well-being and the ability to endure hot steam in a Russian bath. Steam quality is largely determined by how humidity and temperature are managed in the steam room.
What is the difference between steam in a Russian bath and a sauna
It is generally accepted that the sauna is just a hot and dry stove, in which a person quickly loses moisture, dries out, overheats, and, as a result, jumps out of the steam room a few minutes after he crossed its threshold. The standard conditions for a sauna are temperatures below 100 ° C and humidity up to 15%. With an increase in humidity, the so-called threshold of tolerance sets in, when a person, even in normal health, begins to suffocate from the burning effect of hot moist air on the mucous membranes and lungs.
The Russian bath is in many ways simpler and softer. The optimum temperature in the steam room of a Russian bath rarely exceeds 65-70 ° C. If we compare the conditions, we will see that the temperature of the Russian bath and sauna is equally necessary, although it differs by 20-30 ° C, despite the fact that the humidity varies by two to three times. Therefore, the main problem in the Russian bath is not the high degree of air in the steam room, but its excessive waterlogging.
The correct backlog of light steam in a Russian bath, according to experts, is done something like this:
- First of all, the walls of the steam room are heated, what air temperature is needed in the steam room - the owners decide, but most often up to 50 ° C, no more. Thoroughly warm the wooden trim of the steam room, thereby increasing the effectiveness of thermal insulation. Warm walls are the key to light steam in a Russian bath;
- In a warm, but not hot Russian bath, a small container with boiling hot water is installed on the stove in the steam room, which gradually fills the steam room of the bathhouse with light and non-hot steam over the course of an hour;
- After obtaining the necessary humidity, the stove is bred to the maximum and heated on one tab of firewood until it burns out completely. The atmosphere heats up to 65 o C and is stable, coupled with the necessary dryness of the steam for an hour.
This pair will be the easiest and most useful.
Advice! To get a light heat in an ordinary Russian bath, it will be useful to use a steam generator that gives a stream that is not hot, but saturated with small droplets.
The heat in the Russian bath rises slowly and is easily discharged by opening the ventilation valve or an ordinary window.
How to take a steam bath in a Russian bath without mistakes
The best option would be not to let the organization of steam in a Russian bath run by chance, but to competently heat the bathhouse and take a steam bath yourself or with a company, while there is real light steam of a Russian bath in the steam room. Visiting the steam room in several visits is also quite possible, but before each time, the procedure for equalizing humidity and temperature will have to be repeated in a new way. How quickly the steam in the steam room will be “corrected” for a new entry depends on its design and competent management of the heater and the window.
After entering the steam room, after 20-30 minutes, the body adapts to the temperature and humidity, and there will be a feeling of cooling the steam room. With good thermal insulation of the walls and a solid stone stove, good steam will last an hour or two. In a bathhouse with a steel potbelly stove, the real steam of a Russian steam room will last no more than half an hour.
Common Mistakes
A characteristic error in steam management is considered to be flooding the heater with excess water. In this case, in a Russian bath, for some short time, something like a Turkish hammam is formed. After another ten minutes, the steam room will begin to cool down quickly, due to the high humidity, dampness and discomfort will appear. Even worse, if you heat the stove to white heat, add water to the stove and fill the steam room with a hot, humid cloud that makes it impossible to breathe.
In the first case, you should leave the steam room, correct the operation of the stove and remove water from the heater. After laying a new portion and warming up the furnace, as the steam room warms up again, it is recommended to open the valve and remove most of the steam with cooled air from the steam room. Having thoroughly succumbed to the heat in the atmosphere of the steam room, they enter the room and in small portions increase the water content in the air of the room.
Sometimes the work of pouring hot water on the stones is replaced by an aluminum flask with a volume of a couple of liters of water, from which water drips onto the hot stones of the furnace through an unscrewed cork.
Advice! It will be especially effective to combine watering the stones with water and fanning the hot stove with a towel or a piece of plywood. Some masters are able to organize a real light steam, characteristic of a Russian bath, in 10-15 minutes.
In the second case, it is better to vent some of the humid and boiling atmosphere from the steam room. The temperature in the Russian bath will drop and the humidity will even out. You can open the doors to the dressing room and wait for the dry air from the bathhouse to expel a hot cloud into the ventilation.
The secret of light steam
As one of the most popular options, we can offer a combination of a sauna and a Russian bath in one steam room. Not everyone likes this way of steaming, but in many cases it is suitable if people in the company like different temperature conditions.
The essence of the method is as follows. First, the steam room warms up to the highest possible temperature and low humidity. In such a sauna, those who love the Finnish “brazier” can take a steam bath. During this time, the bulk of the stone in the stove warms up to the maximum, then you need to open the ventilation of the steam room while adding moisture by pouring small portions of hot water on the heater.
