Can concrete be putty? The choice and features of applying putties for concrete bases. Putty with finishing putty in two layers

At first glance, wallpapering seems simple, but in fact this process requires patience, and most importantly, the right approach. Everything should happen in several stages. First, the old coating is removed, then it is carried out rough finish, and at the end decoration is carried out. But some ignore the second stage of work, which is why the result is not entirely successful. Puttying the walls under the wallpaper is the most crucial moment, not only the final result, but also your self-esteem depends on it.

Choice of materials, tools

Putty has many obvious advantages. For example, it provides a perfectly smooth surface, smoothes out the influx of plaster, eliminates small cracks, indentations. Any material that you would not use as a finish will ideally fall on a properly prepared wall.

Before you start puttying the walls under the wallpaper with your own hands, you will need to decide on the materials. They are presented in a wide range, and differ not only in price, but also in composition. The most affordable are dry mixes, they must be diluted with water before use. Ready-to-use mixtures are considered expensive materials.

In the process of work, you can not do without the following tools for wall plastering:

  • spatula (angular, straight 10-15 cm, 25-30 cm);
  • drill with a plug-in mixer for mixing the putty mixture;
  • sandpaper for grouting;
  • brush / roller for priming;
  • net capacity of 15-25 liters.

Features of working with drywall

Strongly curved walls are usually sheathed with drywall, which allows not only to level the surface, but also to create decorative figures. Sheets dry gypsum plaster have a smooth, even surface, but they are not monolithic, they are produced in certain sizes. Plastering plasterboard walls is mandatory, because after its installation, joints and attachment points appear. If we talk about mixtures suitable for him, then any (cement, polymer, gypsum) will do. The main thing is to consider in which room the repair is being done. For example, the first option is suitable for the bathroom.

The technology of puttying walls for wallpaper implies their initial treatment with a primer. For this you need a roller, and for hard-to-reach places you can use brushes. After complete drying, proceed to leveling the surface with plaster, starting putty. The applied layer must also dry, after which it is covered with a primer.

If you are using a dry mix, then it will need to be prepared according to the instructions. First, water and powder are mixed with a spatula, when the composition becomes thicker, a drill with a mixer is used. Its readiness is determined by consistency. In order for the result to completely satisfy you, it is more expedient to use the best spatulas for puttying the walls, that is, made from quality materials.

The starting mixture is applied with a large spatula, in medium portions and evenly distributed over the entire surface. The tool must be held at an angle of 25-30 degrees, movements are made diagonally. In order to avoid the formation of bumps, transitions, each layer is overlapped to each other. To ensure perfectly even corners, a special angle-type spatula is used, but before that the putty is applied with a small tool. The first layer of the “start” should dry well, after which you can proceed to the “finish”. At this stage of puttying the walls under the wallpaper, a fine-grained mixture is used. It is applied twice in layers of 1-2 mm. After complete drying, the surface is polished.

What about concrete walls?

Preparing walls for puttying in a new building is not much different from working with drywall. AT this case if there are large chips, wide cracks, potholes, they must be repaired using cement mortar. If deviations from vertical plane essential, a layer of leveling plaster must be applied. For this, beacons made of T-shaped metal profiles. plaster mixture must be applied on a pre-primed surface, leveling is carried out using a building rule.

If you moved into an apartment where the walls were painted, you will have to work hard to clean the surface. You should not try to sand the surface or simply prime the paint, because the wallpaper will not last long on such walls. Better to use building hair dryer, grinder, grinder with wire brush or a special wash.

The process of applying putty

After the plaster and primer are completely dry, you can start puttying concrete walls. The first step is the application of coarse-grained putty, the thickness of its layer is at least 5 mm. The mixture is applied with a wide spatula with sweeping hand movements. After it dries, the evenness of the wall is checked by the rule, the existing errors are corrected by finishing puttying. The mixture used for this is characterized by smaller particles. At the end, the walls are sanded and treated with a primer, after which wallpaper can be glued on them.

Buildings often need updating appearance, a additional protection in the form of putty will protect the walls from various phenomena that can harm them.

This design will not only give an attractive appearance to the building, but also significantly extend its service life.

As you know, putty can be intended for internal and external application which affects its performance.

Putty for outdoor work on concrete has a composition that allows it to be resistant to natural phenomena and temperature changes, so when buying, you need to make sure that the products you buy meet the specified requirements.

Synthetic resins, various plasticizers are used to mix the compositions, and the proportion of cement content also increases.

The surface that is formed when the applied composition dries is not afraid of water, strong wind, and often mechanical damage. It also performs its main tasks by leveling the irregularities on the wall, smoothing and improving the surface.

For interior decoration it is also suitable, although it is not recommended.

Requirements

The process of finishing with putty is the same as usual, the surface is primed, a starting layer is applied to it, and then a finishing layer is applied on top.

If necessary, another intermediate layer can be added, this is done if the base is too badly damaged, and the starting layer did not give the desired result.

The starting putty does an excellent job of sealing grooves, cracks and other damage, its thickness, depending on the circumstances, can be in the range of 2-20 mm.

Finishing putty is distinguished by a finer finely dispersed structure. Most types of such putty are sold in the form of mixtures, acrylic is offered in a ready-to-use form.

Basic requirements for finishing putty:

Elasticity;

Resistance to temperature changes;

Moisture resistant;

Vapor resistance.

In addition, the so-called "green building" has become fashionable, in which only environmentally friendly materials are used. clean materials, so it can be called another mandatory requirement to modern finishing works.

Peculiarities

Before starting work on puttying, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the wall well. It should be free of any dirt, oil stains, previous finishes, peeling paint, and so on.


Then you can proceed to priming, treating the wall with a composition that increases the adhesion of the finished solution to the surface. Only after that you can apply the starting layer.

As soon as it is completely dry (drying time is determined by the composition used), you can continue to work. Surface needs to be sanded sandpaper, once again treat with a primer, and start working with the next layer.

The conditions under which work can be carried out also depend on the composition used, but in any case, work cannot be carried out at temperatures below five degrees Celsius, otherwise the putty will not be able to harden normally. Humidity during operation should also not exceed 80%.

It is desirable that the surface to be treated is not under direct sunlight, and was securely closed from precipitation, splashes and rain can significantly impair the result. For this reason, the facades are sometimes covered with a film.

Types of facade putties

Facade putty must have a number of mandatory properties, so a list of all existing types of plaster simply will not work here. The list below shows the types of material that do an excellent job with their tasks.


Acrylic putty, a versatile finishing material, suitable for use both inside and outside the building. A centimeter layer is enough to make the walls perfectly smooth, however, experts recommend applying several layers so that the first one does not crack.

Cement putty, as the name suggests, key element it contains cement. It resists moisture well in any form, is not afraid of low or high temperatures, and is relatively cheap, can be used as a starting or finishing putty. Applied in two coats due to shrinkage.

Polymer putty, its composition includes polyurethane, epoxy resins and other materials. Creates a very durable surface that is not at all afraid of water and temperature changes. Perhaps its only drawback is the increased cost.

Silicone putty, silicone resins play a key role in its composition. Highly durable material resistant to pollution. It does not fade in the sun, is not afraid of moisture, but also costs a lot.

Comparison

There are quite a few on the market different materials, and they all differ significantly from each other, so we will simply present a few examples of building mixtures that are widespread in the domestic market.

Ceresit ST 29. It is based on gypsum, it perfectly copes with the task of leveling lime, brick and other surfaces. It is used at temperatures from 5 to 32 degrees, hardens within 50 minutes, 7.2 kilograms of the mixture is consumed per square meter.

SCANMIX LH STANDARD - complete opposite composition mentioned above. It is based on polymer materials, putty gives high adhesion, does not shrink, and has all the advantages polymer compositions. It takes a day to polymerize, 1.5 kg of the composition is consumed per m2.

Criterias of choice

When making a choice, you need to remember that there can be no universal finishing material in principle, so you must first of all proceed from your own needs.

Putty for outdoor work on concrete, as we saw earlier, can be very different, so you need to take into account the feasibility of processing with one or another material, weather conditions and, of course, your financial capabilities.

Often, when repairing an apartment with your own hands, the question arises whether it is possible to glue wallpaper on concrete or plasterboard walls without putty? To find the answer, you need to figure out in what cases this can be done and how to properly prepare the surface before gluing.

From competent training walls depends on durability finishing coating and aesthetic appearance of the room.

Wallpapering without wall putty requires careful preparation, but allows you to save on other materials (plaster, tools, etc.).

Experienced craftsmen advise beginners to carefully read possible difficulties that arise when working with different types plasters.

What wallpaper can be glued without puttying the walls? Masters recommend giving preference to denser non-woven and vinyl models. Liquid wallpaper, fashionable today, is one of the types of material that perfectly adheres to any surface, including a wall treated with plaster. Before applying them, you need to carry out preparatory work, as for other types finishing materials.

Why and how to prime the walls under the wallpaper?

Priming walls before wallpapering

Priming the surface for gluing the canvas - necessary step under repair. Many mistakenly believe that it can be skipped, because the material is already holding up so well. Experts think otherwise, and here's why:

  1. Applying a primer to plaster increases the adhesion of the surface. The adhesion of the wall and the material will be stronger, which means that the repair will last longer for the owner.
  2. The primer is selected for each room individually. There are moisture resistant and heat resistant primers. The durability of the repair depends on the correct choice of material.
  3. Proper priming of the surface also affects the quality of the repair work.

How to apply a primer on a plastered wall? With a wide brush or roller, the solution is carefully applied to the entire surface. Only after completion of work and complete drying of the soil, you can start wallpapering.

Surface preparation

How to do without wall putty for wallpapering? To ensure that repairs are of high quality and last long years the surface must be prepared for the application of the material. To work, you will need the following tools:

  • bucket for glue;
  • sandpaper;
  • measuring tape;
  • roller and brushes;
  • plumb and level;
  • scissors and knife;
  • spray bottle with water.

When pasting wallpaper to replace the old one, the latter must be removed from the wall. Removing them is pretty easy. old paper sheets moistened with water and carefully removed with a spatula. If it was not possible to remove all the material, then the surface is cleaned of irregularities and paper residues with sandpaper.

Wallpapering tool

After cleaning, the walls are washed with water and dried. Pits, cracks and other serious defects will have to be leveled with putty. To do this, you can use starter mixes. Nails and self-tapping screws must be removed or drowned in the wall and also puttied.

Uneven walls will have to be brought to the ideal starting putty. Especially if the finishing material is very thin. Liquid wallpaper on a concrete wall can be applied without putty.

When the walls are leveled with drywall, the joints are treated with putty. After it dries, they are cleaned with a sandpaper. GKL also needs additional processing. Without a primer, when wallpapering on drywall, all the moisture from the glue will be absorbed into the surface, which will lead to flaking of the canvas and soaking of the base.

Adhesive selection

Not only the preparation of the surface for wallpapering affects the final result. Success also depends on the selected adhesive composition for the material. The type of glue is selected strictly based on the selected type of canvas.

For ordinary paper materials the standard version based on methylcellulose is suitable. For gluing heavier wallpapers, you should choose an adhesive composition with the inclusion of PVA.

Glass fiber is attached using a special type of adhesive that increases adhesion to the surface.

Modern adhesives are supplied as a dry mix, which is diluted with water before use, following the instructions. Manufacturers add certain substances to the glue that reduce the drying rate and provide protection against mold and mildew.

Wallpaper glue

Stages of gluing wallpaper on plaster

Before gluing, you need to make sure that the surface is flat and smooth, without joints or cracks. After preliminary preparation and priming, you can start working with the canvas. In a separate clean bucket, the adhesive is mixed.

To improve the properties, he needs to be allowed to stand for 5-10 minutes. With a thick brush, a thin layer of glue is applied to the wall and wallpaper. After application, the canvas is folded in half, with glue inside and let it “rest” for about 5 minutes.

This trick will increase the hold of the wallpaper on the wall.

Then the canvas is unfolded and glued to the wall, starting from the corner. Flatness is checked with a plumb bob. First, the canvas is pressed in the middle and, with movements from the center to the edges, is smoothed out.

It is necessary to get rid of air bubbles under the wallpaper as much as possible. If this did not work out, then the canvas will have to be re-glued.
Liquid wallpaper is applied to the entire wall at a time. The layer should be as thin as possible.

They dry from 1 to 3 days, depending on the thickness.

Wallpapering on plaster, without puttying, is quite possible. If you strictly adhere to the application technology, then the result will please the novice master for many years. How to glue wallpaper on concrete walls is described step by step in the video below.

Source: http://otdelkasam.ru/raboty/shpaklevka/poklejka-oboev-bez-shpaklevki-sten.html

Putty for concrete

Puttying concrete walls has now established itself as the most common way to level surfaces, in particular: walls, floors and ceilings made of concrete. Concrete is a very specific material.

Its main feature is a low degree of hygroscopicity. Concrete almost does not absorb moisture, which prevents its adhesion with other mortars.

Plaster or putty penetrates into the pores and cracks on the surface to be finished, thereby providing adhesion, but in concrete there are very few such irregularities, so it is quite difficult to achieve adhesion.

Putty properties

The more elastic the putty, the better it penetrates into the pores of the base

For puttying concrete surfaces, it is necessary to use specially designed building mixtures. Putty for concrete should have the following properties:

  1. Elasticity. The material must penetrate into all pores of the concrete surface. The better the elastic performance, the easier it is to work with such a solution.
  2. Thixotropy is the ability of a putty to thin out when applied and increase in viscosity when it dries. It should be noted that when kneading the mixture will seem slightly liquid.
  3. Frost resistance. Since putty is often used on outdoors, it must be frost-resistant.

Concrete fillers must set quickly, form a very durable layer, and not shrink so that the surface does not crack due to the load, and cracks and other defects do not form in the future.

The waterproofing properties of the mixture play an important role when working with concrete and make it possible not to make a separate layer of waterproofing.

Types of putties

Cement mixtures are less elastic than gypsum

As a rule, when working with concrete, use the following types putties:

  1. Cement. This is the most popular view the mixture in question. Its basis is cement, most often brand M-400 or M-500. The positive side is good water resistance. To negative sides can be attributed to the lack of elasticity and, as a result, the appearance of cracks after some time due to shrinkage. This concrete putty is used for finishing walls outside the building, rooms with high humidity and concrete floor work.
  2. Gypsum. The basis of such material is gypsum. Due gypsum mixture going on natural circulation moisture. To positive features can be attributed to good thermal insulation, fire resistance, environmental friendliness. Fragility can be noted as a disadvantage. This mixture is used for interior decoration. It is not recommended to use this type of putty in rooms with high humidity (bathroom, shower room, swimming pool).
  3. Acrylic. Acrylic is the base. This is a universal putty, it is suitable for both outdoor and internal works. Due to the good appearance of the finished surface, the acrylic mixture is often used for finishing ceilings without subsequent painting.

To increase the adhesive properties of the working surface, it is recommended to treat the plane with a primer before applying the putty. In our case, when working with concrete, it is better to use concrete contact. However, when choosing a primer, you should pay attention to what kind of work: internal or external, it is intended.

Technical characteristics of putties

Before the purchase building material it is necessary to study its all technical characteristics.

Water consumption, layer thickness, color, viability, drying time of putty on concrete depends on the grades of the mixture itself.

The most popular to work with concrete floors are brands from the following manufacturers:

Putty application technology

Move the grater with the mixture from the bottom up

It is necessary to putty concrete walls, ceilings and floors in several stages. First of all, you need to prepare work surface, remove the old coating (peeled paint, plaster, putty), carefully clean and degrease oil stains. Cracks in the plane, if necessary, should be expanded.

If it is necessary to repair any defects, we use for this cement mortar and wait for it to dry completely. After that, using a construction vacuum cleaner, we remove dust and dirt.

After processing the concrete surface, carry out priming. It is recommended to apply two coats of primer, each coat must dry. It is convenient to apply the primer with a long-haired roller or a wide brush. To simplify the application of liquid, you can use a spray gun.

Now you can proceed to the process of mixing the solution. How to make putty? We take a container for mixing (bucket, deep basin), pour water. Usually a proportion of 5 liters of water per 25 kg of putty (1: 5) is taken.

The finished solution is applied by spraying

For mixing without lumps, use electric drill with nozzle. We lower the mixer into water and begin to stir, gradually adding the mixture. The resulting solution must be used within 3 hours after mixing.

The finished solution is applied by throwing it on a plane and further distributing it with a spatula. To make the surface more durable, you can use a reinforcing mesh or fiberglass. After the first layer has dried, a second layer should be applied. In this case, the direction of each subsequent layer changes to perpendicular to the previous one.

Finally putty on concrete dries out in about a day. At the final stage, we rub the dried, but not completely dried surface with sandpaper, using a grinder or a special grater. For more information about wall putty, see this video:

Only with the observance of the technologies for working with putties can an ideal surface be achieved.

Also, most importantly, with great responsibility to approach the choice of the material itself, not to miss a single stage in the preparation of the surface and the distribution of the putty itself.

Source: http://MoyaStena.ru/shpatlevka/betonnykh-sten

How to paint concrete walls, and whether finishing is needed for painting: is it possible to paint without plaster and putty

Concrete walls rarely remain in the interior in their original form. External concrete elements require additional coating to avoid premature failure. A simple and cost-effective way is painting.

Coating concrete elements with paint is phased preparation surface using products that allow for a long time to maintain the integrity of both the concrete slab and finish coat. When choosing a paint, it is necessary to take into account a number of nuances related to the purpose of the room and the functionality of the painted surface.

Training

The first stage of preparation concrete structures to coloring - the use of sealant. Special composition, intended for concrete, is applied in one layer and dries within a day. Sealant allows you to create a barrier against the penetration of mold microbes.

The next step in the workflow is priming. Primers for concrete have a light shade, necessary for the subsequent check that the entire surface is covered evenly. If not, the primer is applied again, drying each layer for a day.

There are special impregnations for concrete that perform a dust-removing function (protecting against abrasion and crumbling), which are usually used on concrete floors.

If there are cracks

Any surface imperfections in the form of cracks, chips, drop-shaped grooves are best repaired with a special repair mortar(cement, putty) with a trowel or spatula.

This will allow subsequent coats of primer and paint to lay flat and prolong the life of the coating.

After using the mixture to cover the cracks, it is necessary to pass the surface with sandpaper to remove excessive roughness.

Without finishing

Before applying paint concrete surface should be washed to remove dirt and dust that will shorten the life of any paintwork. Concrete can be cleaned with a soapy solution using a rag or a coarse brush in case of severe contamination.

On concrete, if not protective coating, rust will form over time, which should also be removed before painting.

A solution of copper sulfate copes well with a rusty coating.

If the affected area is too large, it is necessary to treat with rosin varnish.

Finished

Basic removal methods old finish from a concrete surface three:

  1. sandblasting - a hardware method that requires skill and time for subsequent drying;
  2. alkali solution - necessary to remove old paint;
  3. spatula application - mechanical method layer scraping, time-consuming, but giving an easily controllable result.

Indoor and outdoor work: differences

Carrying out staining on internal and external concrete has two differences.

  • surface temperature. Concrete, located indoors, is little affected by temperature changes, and when applying paint with outer side two conditions must be strictly observed: surface temperature - above 5 ° C; concrete should not be overheated by direct sunlight.
  • Work time. If the work inside is carried out according to the general repair schedule, then for painting the outer surfaces it is necessary to choose the time of day when the appearance of morning or evening dew is reduced to zero.

When applying paint to external concrete surfaces, it is necessary to choose the right weather - cloudy, but without rain.

Painting the walls inside: features

Paint on concrete can be applied directly to the primer or to pre-filled walls.

How to paint without putty

Coloring concrete without applying a layer of plaster retains the visible structure of the coating.

In interiors, concrete surfaces are used to emphasize the coldness and masculinity of the overall style of the room, therefore, as a rule, paint shades of gray and sand are chosen.

Is it possible to paint without plaster

Painting without preliminary puttying is possible, it is important to choose the right compositions for impregnation and primer, because they will fix the layers of paint applied to the concrete wall.

Painting in the apartment without preparation

There are modern coloring compositions that do not require the application of a base. They are not so durable, but they allow you to easily change the situation. A feature of using all-in-one paint is the need to refill the sprayer.

What should be the finish for painting on concrete walls

Concrete allows you to create a finishing layer of plaster, which can imitate brickwork, 3D drawings, frescoes, partial finishing necessary for the interior design. In such cases, the paint is applied after the wall texture has completely dried, usually with a thin brush, for the best resemblance to the original.

How to paint without leveling

When painting walls, a problem often pops up - the unevenness of the wall violates the integrity of the coating, which subsequently leads to cracking of the paint. This misunderstanding can be easily corrected. correct selection building materials:

  • paint roller - must be marked as a tool "for uneven walls";
  • paint - you should choose textured, imitating waves, strokes, wood structure, etc.

Choice of interior paint

The range of modern building and finishing materials only increases with each season, therefore best advice consultants of the store will give, taking into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe premises, the purpose and interior requests of the client. Paints selected for concrete coating must not only have the appropriate marking, but also contain detailed instructions by application.

Three types of paints are most commonly used.

  1. Epoxy. Differs in wear resistance. It has saturated color, protects walls from moisture. Painting work must be carried out in rooms with good ventilation. Cracks may appear over time.
  2. Acrylic. It has economical consumption Sometimes one coat is enough. Environmentally friendly. Dries quickly, moisture resistant. The only negative is the short service life.
  3. Glossy. An environmentally friendly product, but at the same time it is sensitive to mechanical damage.
  • Painting work must be carried out in protective glasses. When using strong-smelling paint, wear a respirator.
  • Before applying the paint, you need to prepare the tools: fluff the brushes and check if they lose their bristles; soak the roller under a strong stream of water, then wring out and smooth the pile.
  • To protect the floor and ceiling at the joints with the wall, masking tape is used, which is peeled off after painting. If necessary individual places then worked out with a thin brush.
  • When applying paint, it is important to remember that each layer should be as thin as possible. A wall painted in three thin layers looks better than one overly thick one that forms streaks.
  • As a rule, concrete walls are puttied in two layers: the first is gypsum or cement plaster, then - finishing putty. This method allows you to achieve a perfectly even coating.

Painting concrete surfaces with paint is not difficult for both beginners and experienced finishers.

When painting, it is important to patiently wait until each layer of the coating dries, then the result will be uniform and durable.

Source: https://otdelkasten.com/pokraska-sten/pokraska-betonnyh-sten

How to paint concrete walls: do-it-yourself job description

AT standard apartments walls are made up of concrete slabs. Concrete walls with their rough surface can be emphasized by painting them without leveling. The apartment will acquire design and renovation will look modern. How to paint concrete walls with various compositions, we will tell you in more detail.

Choosing materials

The concrete wall is painted with the appropriate composition. Good adhesion to loose and porous surfaces has an acrylic finish with the addition of latex resins. It does not allow moisture to pass through and lays flat on the surface.

Important! Oil paints they also lie directly on the concrete surface, but not all types. It is necessary to take specific compositions for coloring concrete.

When choosing paint, consider the following features:

  1. The surface will be painted outside or inside the room. For interior work, more than natural compounds on the water based or natural oils. For outdoor facade work, more synthetic ones are suitable, but less prone to direct sunbeams and moisture.
  2. The purpose of the premises. Acrylic interior paint can be used to paint the living room or bedroom, waterproof compositions are taken for the kitchen and bathroom with a humid atmosphere.

Previously, before painting the concrete, the wall was prepared. Preparatory work included plastering, puttying and leveling. If selected modern design, when the concrete surface is emphasized and not hidden, then special preparatory work do not need to be carried out. But it is possible to paint a concrete surface without leveling immediately only if the surface is perfectly flat.

Before applying the paint, the concrete surface is covered with 1-2 layers of primer. The composition is taken under a certain paint. We recommend using a primer, which includes an antiseptic. The coating will protect the walls from fungi and mold. The primer will enhance adhesion and the finish will last longer.

Concrete paint is applied in several ways:

  • With a molar brush or wide roller. The easiest way, but it takes time and effort.
  • With the help of a sponge. Folk way. Thanks to this application, you can get a relief pattern on the walls.
  • With the help of a spray gun. For interior work, the method is not the best, as paint splatter will cover the entire room, including furniture. For exterior finish the easiest and fastest option.

When coloring composition and primer selected, you can start finishing.

Photos increase, click!

Instruction for beginners

Do-it-yourself finishing without pre-treatment with concrete paint is easy. The cost of such services from specialists starts from 350 rubles / m². Therefore, you save a lot.

To work under concrete, you will need the following tools and materials:

  • Airbrush, roller or brushes;
  • Special tray for paint;
  • Primer and coating based on the footage of the room (take + 15% just in case);
  • Molar tape.

Works with a composition for concrete are carried out in the following stages:

  1. Fittings are glued with molar tape doorways, plinth ceiling and floor. Sockets and switches are removed from the walls under the coating. Bare wires are insulated with a special tape.
  2. If the concrete wall has small irregularities, then they can be cleaned with coarse sandpaper.
  3. Walls for finishing with large differences are best leveled with plaster, the strobes are closed with cement-based putty.
  4. A primer is applied to the walls under the paint with a roller or brush. Apply the composition in 2 layers, after allowing the first to dry.
  5. After the primer layer has dried, proceed to painting on concrete. The concrete-like paint lays down in a thick layer, so small irregularities will close.
  6. Apply finishing composition it is possible in 2 layers, but before the second coating, the first is allowed to dry completely.
  7. Hard-to-reach sections of the walls are being painted: behind the batteries, in the corners.

Concrete paint must dry completely. The standard drying time depends on the selected composition. Acrylic - up to 24 hours, oil - up to 47 hours.

If you follow the technology, then there will be no questions about how to paint the walls. The design will serve its owners for at least 5 years, as the coating is not afraid of mechanical damage.

material:

The video provides instructions on how to paint concrete walls.

Source: http://remontgoda.ru/kak-pokrasit-betonnye-steny/

Puttying walls under wallpaper - plasterboard and concrete puttying technology

  • At first glance, wallpapering seems simple, but in fact this process requires patience, and most importantly, the right approach. Everything should happen in several stages.

    First, the old coating is removed, then a rough finish is carried out, and finally, decoration is carried out. But some ignore the second stage of work, which is why the result is not entirely successful.

    Puttying the walls under the wallpaper is the most crucial moment, not only the final result, but also your self-esteem depends on it.

    Choice of materials, tools

    Putty has many obvious advantages. For example, it provides a perfectly smooth surface, smooths out the influx of plaster, eliminates small cracks and depressions. Any material that you would not use as a finish will ideally fall on a properly prepared wall.

    Puttying tools

    Before you start puttying the walls under the wallpaper with your own hands, you will need to decide on the materials. They are presented in a wide range, and differ not only in price, but also in composition. The most affordable are dry mixes, they must be diluted with water before use. Ready-to-use mixtures are considered expensive materials.

    In the process of work, you can not do without the following tools for puttying walls:

    • spatula (angular, straight 10-15 cm, 25-30 cm);
    • drill with a plug-in mixer for mixing the putty mixture;
    • sandpaper for grouting;
    • brush / roller for priming;
    • net capacity of 15-25 liters.

    Features of working with drywall

    Strongly curved walls are usually sheathed with drywall, which allows not only to level the surface, but also to create decorative figures. Sheets of dry gypsum plaster have a smooth, even surface, but they are not monolithic, they are produced in certain sizes.

    Plastering plasterboard walls is mandatory, because after its installation, joints and attachment points appear. If we talk about mixtures suitable for him, then any (cement, polymer, gypsum) will do. The main thing is to consider in which room the repair is being done.

    For example, the first option is suitable for the bathroom.

    Plastering plasterboard walls

    The technology of puttying walls for wallpaper implies their initial treatment with a primer. To do this, you will need a roller, and brushes can be used for hard-to-reach places. After complete drying, proceed to leveling the surface with plaster, starting putty. The applied layer must also dry, after which it is covered with a primer.

    If you are using a dry mix, then it will need to be prepared according to the instructions.

    First, water and powder are mixed with a spatula, when the composition becomes thicker, a drill with a mixer is used. Its readiness is determined by consistency.

    In order for the result to completely satisfy you, it is more expedient to use the best spatulas for puttying the walls, that is, made from quality materials.

    The starting mixture is applied with a large spatula, in medium portions and evenly distributed over the entire surface. The tool must be held at an angle of 25-30 degrees, movements are made diagonally. In order to avoid the formation of bumps, transitions, each layer is overlapped to each other.

    To ensure perfectly even corners, a special angle-type spatula is used, but before that the putty is applied with a small tool. The first layer of the “start” should dry well, after which you can proceed to the “finish”. At this stage of puttying the walls under the wallpaper, a fine-grained mixture is used.

    It is applied twice in layers of 1-2 mm. After complete drying, the surface is polished.

    What about concrete walls?

    Preparing walls for puttying in a new building is not much different from working with drywall. In this case, if there are large chips, wide cracks, potholes, they must be repaired using cement mortar.

    If deviations from the vertical plane are significant, then a layer of leveling plaster must be applied. For this, beacons made of T-shaped metal profiles are exposed.

    The plaster mixture should be applied to a pre-primed surface, leveling is carried out using a building rule.

    Puttying concrete walls

    If you moved into an apartment where the walls were painted, you will have to work hard to clean the surface. You should not try to sand the surface or simply prime the paint, because the wallpaper will not last long on such walls. It is better to use a building hair dryer, a grinder, a grinder with a metal brush or a special wash.

    The process of applying putty

    After the plaster and primer are completely dry, you can begin to putty the concrete walls. The first step is the application of coarse-grained putty, the thickness of its layer is at least 5 mm. The mixture is applied with a wide spatula with sweeping hand movements.

    After it dries, the evenness of the wall is checked by the rule, the existing errors are corrected by finishing puttying. The mixture used for this is characterized by smaller particles. At the end, the walls are sanded and treated with a primer, after which wallpaper can be glued on them.

    Concrete surface - dense building base, but even it cracks and deforms over time. To prevent this from happening, the material is recommended to be protected. You can do this with putty. Professionals advise choosing a composition for a concrete base, depending on the repair budget and the place of work.

    Putty for concrete has the following purpose:
    restoration of the base, on which numerous defects appeared;
    leveling the surface before finishing;
    heat and sound insulation of the room;
    protection of the surface from aggressive manifestations of the climate.

    Characteristics

    Specifications:
    drying time - from 4 hours to 5 days, depending on the type of product;
    surface waterproofing - 98%;
    the time of using the dry composition after dilution is 2 hours;
    defrosting / freezing - 35 cycles.

    Requirements for putty

    The material is subject to the following requirements:
    Thixotropy. The composition liquefies upon use and becomes viscous upon solidification.
    Elasticity. This allows the product to penetrate into the pores of the surface.
    Moisture resistance. This property should be in a product that is used indoors with high humidity or outdoors.
    Resistance to temperature changes, if the product is used for outdoor work.

    Varieties

    There are several options for classifying putty for concrete. Professionals distinguish types, depending on the order of use - starting, finishing and universal. The starting composition is used to close up defects and smooth out sharp transitions. Finishing putties are applied to level the surface before finishing. Universal means used both as a starter and as a finisher.
    In addition, putty is classified according to composition and degree of readiness.

    Composition

    The following types of putty are compatible with concrete:
    cement mixtures. Such compositions are in high demand among users. The tool is used for indoor and outdoor work. Dignity - affordable price, disadvantage - the material shrinks, as a result of which the surface is deformed and flaws appear.
    Gypsum compositions. Active substance- gypsum. The product is used indoors. The product is not suitable for outdoor use and in rooms with high humidity.
    Acrylic medium. It is a universal product that is suitable for all types of substrates, for both indoor and outdoor use.
    Epoxy compound. The material has improved characteristics - increased strength and high drying rate. The disadvantage is the high price.

    By readiness

    Types of putty on readiness:
    Dry mixes. Before use, the product is diluted with water. The proportions are indicated on the packaging. To mix a quality solution, you need a drill with a mixer nozzle or construction mixer. To use the product, a certain skill in construction is required, so the composition is not recommended for beginners.
    Ready compositions. Used immediately after opening the package. The composition is easy to apply, so the product is recommended for use by non-professional craftsmen. The disadvantage is the high cost.

    The choice of putty

    How to putty concrete walls, floor or ceiling - actual question non-professional finishers who make repairs with their own hands. The choice of composition depends on where the work will take place - indoors or outdoors.

    For interior work

    If the repair is carried out indoors, then when choosing a putty, you need to take into account the type of surface.

    for walls

    In the living room, hallway, bedroom and children's room, professionals advise using gypsum putty. This composition is suitable for dry rooms. The tool has an affordable price, is easy to apply and safe for health.
    In the kitchen and bathroom, it is recommended to use cement composition.
    Puttying concrete walls in dry and wet room performed acrylic means. If there are no major defects, then the composition is used without the starting product. Acrylic putty for concrete walls is easy to apply and levels the surface.

    For floor

    Putty on concrete for interior work, if used for the floor, must have increased strength, since the material is subjected to increased daily load. Professionals recommend using a cement composition. Such material is used for rough and finish work.

    For ceiling

    The criteria for choosing putty for the floor are identical to the rules for choosing material for walls.
    For window sill
    If the concrete ceiling needs restoration, then it is recommended to use an acrylic composition to level the surface before painting, provided that there are no serious defects on the base. The material is applied immediately to the window sill after cleaning. In this case, do not use a primer. If serious damage was found on the surface, then the masters advise using facade putty. Before applying the product to the surface, it is recommended to fix the reinforcing mesh. After that, puttying and subsequent finishing is performed.

    For outdoor work

    A suitable putty for outdoor concrete work is a facade cement. The composition has strength, moisture resistance and resistance to temperature extremes. Professionals advise using such material for starting finishing. For finishing, it is better to use an acrylic composition. Such a product is even used for decorative coating.

    Price

    The price of putty depends on the type and manufacturer. The cheapest product is a dry mix based on cement or gypsum domestic production. Most expensive remedy- finished product foreign manufacturer. For example, a dry bag cement mixture, weighing 20 kg from Prospectors costs about 280 rubles. The finished acrylic composition of Sheetrock can be purchased for 450 rubles per 5 kg.

    Fund consumption

    The consumption of putty depends on the type of product and the thickness of the finishing layer. Exact numbers indicated on the product packaging. On average, the consumption is 0.7-1.5 kg per 1 m2 with a layer thickness of 1 mm.

    How to make your own putty for concrete?

    If we talk about how to make putty for concrete yourself, then there are many recipes. For concrete, it is advised to use a gypsum-chalk composition. The product is recommended for use in dry rooms.
    To prepare the product you will need:
    chalk powder - 2-3 kg;
    gypsum - 1 kg;
    5% solution of wood glue - the amount is determined "by eye".
    Material recipe:
    place the glue in the container;
    put gypsum and chalk in a separate container and stir these products;
    Pour the powder mixture into a container with glue and mix thoroughly.
    To mix the solution, use a construction mixer or a drill with a mixer nozzle. The application time of the finished product is 20-25 minutes. After that, the composition dries up.

    Technology of use

    Foundation preparation

    Surface preparation is a mandatory stage of work before finishing. Clean the base from the old coating. After dismantling, degrease the surface. For concrete, professionals advise using acetone, gasoline or white spirit. Treat the oil stains with the product twice. Then sweep the base with a brush and rinse with water. After the concrete has dried, proceed to the next stage of surface preparation.

    Padding

    If the work is performed without reinforcement, then a primer is used to improve the adhesion of the base to the material. The composition is applied with a brush, roller or spray gun (as in the photo below) in two layers with a break to dry.

    Reinforcement

    If walls are puttyed, then instead of priming, it is recommended to make reinforcement. For this, fiberglass is used. Press the material against the wall and apply PVA glue on top. After the composition has dried, proceed to puttying.

    Applying putty

    Material application instructions:
    seal the cracks with the composition;
    with a wide spatula, apply the starting putty to the base;
    wait until the product dries (see the hardening time on the package) and clean the surface with P 80 sandpaper;
    sweep the base and treat with a primer;
    apply finishing putty, and when the composition hardens, clean the material with sandpaper R 120;
    put the primer on the base in two layers with a break to dry;
    do the finishing.
    The video in this article shows how to properly putty concrete.

    If you carefully study the rules for choosing putty for concrete and the technology for applying the composition, then even an unprofessional finisher will cope with the repair.

    Puttying a concrete ceiling is often the cheapest and fastest way to achieve a smooth and visually even ceiling, provided the concrete base is not too uneven, as this may require preliminary plaster or drywall assembly.

    In this case, we are considering a monolithic concrete ceiling filled with modern "Eurowoods".

    Tools used:

    • mounting puncher (to it a cartridge with a stirrer, a spatula);
    • spatula, metal trowel 45 cm;
    • vibrogrinding machine;
    • the brush is wide.

    We clean up the defects of the formwork

    Despite the fact that the so-called "Eurowoods" are considered high-quality forests, the finished slab has a lot of roughness and sagging.

    All protruding irregularities exceeding a height of 2 mm must be cut down using a perforator with a wide blade (the wider the faster). It is better to use the lightest (mounting) puncher, since chopping the ceiling is not a fun activity, but the lighter the tool, the more you will save energy and, accordingly, you will have time to do more.


    Defects of the finished plate


    Lightweight mounting punch and spatula


    Stirrer with a chuck for a perforator

    We prime the ceiling

    After effective stripping, as usual, the surface should be strengthened with a deep penetration primer. Priming can be done with a brush or roller, depending on the working environment. For example, if you need accuracy, then it is better to use a brush - there is less splash from it, although it is slower. It is much more convenient and faster to prime with a roller due to the use of a long sliding handle that allows you to work from the floor.

    Putty with starting putty

    After about an hour, the primer will dry and you can start puttying the first leveling layer. For this, a starting putty is used, which allows, if necessary, to apply a layer of up to 1 cm, since it contains large particles (and some types of putties and fiberglass) that prevent cracks. In terms of density, the putty should resemble homemade sour cream, which will ensure less sagging during drying and a more accurate workflow.

    Putty is applied with a metal trowel 45 cm long, thanks to which the ceiling is well trimmed.


    Putty with a large half trowel

    If large visually noticeable pits come across in the process, then they should be filled with putty and cut off the excess with a truncated rule 1 m long. It should be noted that very large irregularities are rare on slabs made using Euroforests.

    Putty with finishing putty in two layers

    If the room temperature is more than 15 degrees and provided good ventilation, then after three hours you can start finishing otherwise, the next day. For puttying with a finish, we use an average spatula (35 cm), since it is possible for them to get a good surface smoothness, and it is physically easier to work than with half a trowel. At the same time, if the ceiling area is large enough (more than 20 m 2), then it is still advisable to use a trowel, because the speed of puttying with a trowel is about one and a half times higher, albeit with worst quality. How we putty, qualitatively or not, will ultimately affect the duration of cleaning the surface. So here you need to choose - after all, it is easier for someone to sand, and for someone to putty. There is even such a construction saying: if you haven’t learned how to putty well, learn how to sand well.


    Putty with spatula No. 35


    Puttying the second layer

    Our task is to apply two layers in one day, which will make it easier to work and improve the result due to the easier application of the second layer on the still wet first. It should be noted that not all putties make it possible to apply two layers in a row, so we use cement-based facade putty. An additional plus of facade putty is that it is more durable than gypsum putty and almost does not collapse in case of flooding.

    Skinning

    Subject to the same atmospheric conditions in the room, you can sand the next day, otherwise in a day or two. To speed up this dusty work, we will use a vibration grinder with sandpaper No. 80.


    dry ceiling


    Vibration grinder


    Skinning

    It is also desirable to have anti-fog glasses (with ventilation holes) and a respirator. It should be noted that cement-based putties tend to become stronger when wet for a long time. This means that after a week the ceiling is almost impossible to sand. Therefore, even if the ceiling has not dried up after two days, it still needs to be cleaned, just do it a little more carefully.


    Ceiling ready to paint

    After completing this most unpleasant stage of work, it is considered that our ceiling is ready for painting. However, before painting, it is still recommended to prime it with the same deep penetration primer and at the same time take into account that it is better to use a white (transparent) primer. The fact is that many primers after drying leave yellow tint because of which, for the final painting of the ceiling, it is sometimes necessary to apply an extra layer of paint.

    There is also another economical option- we do not primer, but dilute the paint a little thinner, add a little primer to it and apply the first primer coat of paint with this composition. After the first layer has dried, apply the second layer with paint of normal density.

    The optimal height of the goat for putty work should be such that when you work, you almost touch the top of the ceiling with your head. That is, we measure the height to the ceiling, subtract the height plus 5 cm, we get the height of the goat. Good luck with your repair!

    Vladimir Stetsenko, especially for rmnt.ru