What can be put on the ceiling in the bath. Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in the bath: we do the right ceiling insulation by studying the available methods. Mineral wool prices

If you yourself are planning to build or repair a steam room, then most likely you have thought: what is the best way to insulate the ceiling in the bath from the inside and how to properly cover it with your own hands, and also looked for examples from the video.

Why is it necessary

A person in a steam room often encountered such a phenomenon as condensate. It is formed when hot steam rises and drops of water appear in the room. It does not matter whether the steam room is built into the room or it is a separate structure, it is necessary to insulate it. The only question is how and to what extent. If it is built into the room, excess heat can go into the house. Therefore, a thermal chamber is required.

The wooden parts of the structure are most exposed to the aggressive effects of high temperatures and moisture. Therefore, the coating must be of high quality in order to provide a “perfect” microclimate in the steam room.

In order for wood to serve longer, it is impregnated with various compounds (additives - flame retardants). They increase durability. This safety measure is justified, because the temperature in the steam room reaches 100°C. However, anti-mould chemical coatings at high temperatures will release noxious fumes.

The main "ally" of wooden coatings is insulation, which should keep hot steam indoors and prevent the development of rot. It protects the wood from condensation, prevents wood from rotting and prolongs the service life.

Proper insulation of the ceiling in a bath or steam room with your own hands implies compliance with the following points:

1. Steam must be accumulated and stored indoors.
2. The roof from the inside must be protected from high humidity.
3. It is necessary to prevent the occurrence and accumulation of condensate both in the steam room itself and in the ceilings under the lining in the walls and ceiling.

Features of heaters

Not all products are used for insulation. Plastic products will deform from high temperatures. If you use plywood or fiberboard, then from hot air they will begin to expand and change shape, accumulate moisture. These products are definitely not suitable. The best way is to finish with several layers:

1. First you need to use an insulating material that prevents the penetration of water.
2. Put a second layer of insulation (for example, mineral wool).
3. The third level is aluminum foil.

This “layering” holds heat well and does not allow steam to escape for a long time, so heat losses are reduced.

Heaters can be divided into the following types:

• fibers;
• plates;
• blocks;
• wall plates;
• backfill.

And depending on the composition, they distinguish:

• Organic such as ecowool.
• Inorganic - mineral wool.
• Styrofoam.
• Other heaters such as technovent and technoblock.

Functions of thermal insulation of the bath ceiling

Quality insulation material should be:

• heat-resistant so that there is no fire;
• environmentally friendly (should not emit harmful fumes);
• “breathe” so that water does not collect and condensate does not accumulate;
• moisture resistant.

Varieties and design features

First you need to find out what kind of roof you have - with and without an attic. Structurally similar options for buildings made of logs and panels. They have:

• steam insulation;
• insulation;
• filing from boards;
• beams
• sheathing.

A vapor barrier goes to the wall and ceiling, then a beam, then a heater. You can use basalt wool in the form of mats, then again a layer of vapor barrier, then a bar and fixing the lining. As an option, respectively, a beam of 40 mm and a heater of 40 mm. You don't need too much insulation. The overspending of materials in this case is inappropriate.

On the ceiling, the structure must be made with a slope in order to collect condensate. As a result, a space remains under the lining, allowing the bath to dry out. The power of a modern stove is enough to heat a bath well. Ideally, the steam room is dried by ventilation and a fuel-recycling oven.

If there is no attic, then you need to perform additional steps:

• coat the entire lining with clay up to two centimeters in order to reduce heat loss;
• sprinkle the coating with a mixture of cement and wood chips (you can use slag up to 15 cm - this measure helps to eliminate condensate).

If you want to make a properly working steam room, then you first need to take care of the vapor barrier (not waterproofing with vapor permeability) of the ceiling to create a steam pocket up to the level of the top edge of the door to retain steam and create humidity in the region of 60%.

The vapor barrier of the floor beams and the entire ceiling pie is already a consequence, not a cause. Ceiling insulation without foil is completely irrelevant, since the steam room will not perform the functions that are assigned to it. If you need a steam bath, and not a sauna, you will have to open the casing and deal with the vapor barrier of the ceiling. If this is not done on time, then after a season or two you will have to replace the damp insulation and rotten beams.

To protect wall structures, regardless of what they are made of, it is necessary to insulate from the outside to prevent moisture in the form of condensate through the dew point into the material. For the Russian type of bath, wall insulation from the inside is not necessary, since it is possible to create a regime of 60 ° and 60% even with leaky walls, but with a well waterproofed ceiling and a voluminous brick oven with a powerful thermal core inside. Ideally, on top of the aerated concrete walls, put foam glass insulation with 50 mm thick plates, and then plaster and make decorative wood paneling.

Decking ceiling

You don't see him as often as before. The use of hewn round timber is widespread. This method used to be considered the most profitable - people only had to go into the forest and chop everything they needed for construction themselves. Now this is the most expensive option.

There are several installation options.

1. On the crowns of the log house, if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is small (length is not more than 2.5 m). As a floor, boards of small thickness (50 mm) are used, an even more economical way is edged tongue-and-groove options (25 mm).
2. There is an interesting option for overlapping with unedged sanded boards. They are placed on 2 levels. Gaps and irregularities of the first level are covered by the second level.
3. On floor beams. With this option, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room may be larger. The emphasis on the beams will add zest and will look great.
4. On a supporting frame made of rails. Suitable for small areas and is used less often. Make it easier. But if the room has an attic, then it cannot be used. The roof may not be able to handle heavy loads.

The process takes place in several steps.

1. In the attic, a vapor barrier film (PIP) is lined with an overlap of 10-15 cm (foil surface down).
2. Mineral wool is placed on top of it (instead of it, you can fill the surface with expanded clay or cover it with a mixture of sawdust and clay).
3. The work is completed by laying a waterproofing film (HIP) - roofing felt or polyethylene.

False ceilings

They have a load-bearing capacity, they are often used as an attic, and their installation will cost you much less.

To make this coating, you need to install the beams in advance. Then boards or boards made of tongue-and-groove boards are evenly laid on them. This design is insulated with fibrous material. The installation process will take place in stages:

1. The GUI is taken and laid on the beams from the side of the roof. This is done in a flash.
2. Boards or sheets of plywood are placed on the waterproofing.
3. Mineral wool is laid between the beams. Its thickness varies from 150 to 250 mm (depending on the climate of the area). All joints must be closed with another sheet.
4. From the bottom of the beams we fix the vapor barrier.
5. Then we attach the slats of wood.
6. At the last stage, the lining is attached.

After completing all the work, you will get additional storage space - an attic or an attic.

panel ceiling

It's hard to do it yourself. To begin with, a special design is made of panels. Then it must be fixed on top of the transverse beams or on the top of the wall. How is the installation:

1. Boards are placed close to the supports (perpendicularly).
2. Then we fasten narrow boards to the inside of the PCB, they will be the sides.
3. The next step will be the laying of the PIP.
4. In the resulting space of the panels we put ecowool (or any other).
5. Then you need to put a film of polyethylene or roofing material.
6. The final stage will be the installation of boards, they will be the future floor.

Insulation for the ceiling in the bath: which material is best suited

It used to be customary to use natural raw materials such as moss, clay, sawdust, straw or earth.

Now people began to apply the most effective coatings. They make all the work easier, even if you are a non-professional builder. For example, it is widely used:

• basalt wool;
• expanded clay;
• penoizol;
• ecowool and others.

And you can also use foam and glass wool. But when heated, the first exudes harmful gases and can ignite. And for working with fiberglass, a good protective suit is shown.

The question is whether or not to insulate the entire building only inside or on both sides. There are many opinions on this, but the truth is in the middle. There are many additional factors to be aware of:

• this is a Russian bath or sauna;
• What material is the bath made of?
• what oven is worth.

How to insulate outside

In order for the steam to remain inside and not escape to the outside, you need to achieve the effect of a "thermos". Insulation must be both inside and outside the building. To achieve this effect, you will need a heater for the ceiling in the bath. There are different options:

• waterproofing film;
• expanded clay;
• mineral wool or others.

Builders create a “layered cake” from these elements. Blocks are used from the side of the roof. PIP is placed on top. And the last layer is expanded clay, fibrous and other materials.

How to insulate from the inside

Consider some modern types of heaters:

• expanded clay;
• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• foamed polypropylene;
• penoizol;
• growing aerated concrete.

Mineral wool

It has a fibrous structure that looks like ordinary cotton wool. During the production process, a crushed mixture of various rocks (basalt, dolomite, limestone) is added to it. This cotton wool is very popular due to its properties:

• long service time;
• good hygroscopicity (excellently absorbs water);
• resistance to overheating (fireproof).

Cotton wool thickness from 20 to 25 mm. The efficiency is much higher if it is laid on the PIP. To work with it, you need a tight suit and rubber gloves.

Foil insulation

It is perfect for insulating the ceiling in the bath. Metal spraying retains heat and provides good vapor barrier. This is economically advantageous, because little fuel is required to heat the room. This heater is:

• mineral wool with an aluminum film (produced in rolls and plates);
• foil-based polymer sheet (has a small thickness, is available in the form of rolls).

Foil has 2 purposes:

• reflect IR rays;
• protection (waterproofing or vapor barrier) of the ceiling from moisture and decay.

Such insulation holds high temperatures, is easy to cut, and does not emit toxic fumes. But if the whole steam room is packed in foil, then it is absolutely not vapor-permeable. Therefore, the room turns out to be not comfortable (heavy), like in a greenhouse, respectively, in such a bath it is necessary to make competent ventilation.

Expanded clay

In appearance, it resembles small clay stones with pores. It absorbs water abundantly, which is its weak side. It is used in combination with steam and waterproofing materials. Expanded clay has many advantages:

• environmentally friendly product, without extraneous toxic impurities;
• does not ignite;
• has a long service life;
• it does not form bacteria and fungi;
• cheap product;
• it is easy to use.

Penoizol

It is a foam in liquid form, it is referred to as heat-insulating materials. It fills all areas (even hard-to-reach). It has many advantages:

• cheapness;
• excellent quality (does not expand when it dries);
• does not ignite;
• serves for a long time;
• it does not form mold and fungus.

Cement and sawdust

This method of insulation is characterized as "grandfather". To make the finished mixture, you need 10 parts of sawdust, one of lime, and one of cement. Then add 1.5 parts of water to get the finished product.

The solution is evenly distributed over the entire surface. Economically, this is a profitable option, since the cost is very low. In addition, the resulting solution is environmentally friendly. Minuses:

• it is difficult to prepare;
• thermal insulation properties are lower in comparison with other options;
• no mold protection
• when dry, cracks appear that need to be greased.

Ecowool insulation

Pretty effective way to keep warm. Environmentally friendly cellulose pulp. Substances that improve its properties are added to it: boric acid, sodium tetraborate. Thanks to them, ecowool:

• fire resistant;
• resists the development of bacteria;
• prevents the appearance of insects and rodents.

It is also light and spreads over the entire area, filling voids. Its main disadvantage is the absorption of moisture. This reduces thermal insulation.

Product Features for Insulation

Manufacturers offer various membrane films that protect materials from high humidity. Experienced builders recommend purchasing vapor barrier upholstery with a reflective foil layer that does not allow heat to escape. There are the following types with a foil layer listed below:

• polypropylene;
• kraft paper;
• ruberoid;
• membrane;
• foil;
• coating.

This film is mounted with a large overlap (10-15 cm), and the joints are glued with foil tape for construction work.

A wide range of waterproofing products, such as foil-coated kraft paper, building membrane and other products, are available in specialized department stores. Although you can save money and buy a regular plastic film or roofing felt.

How to insulate concrete floors

If you are completely confused in a wide range and do not understand what material to use, then use the advice of experienced builders. For example, with concrete floors it is recommended to use expanded clay.

Special preliminary preparation is not required. For convenience, slats from a bar can be attached to the base of the roof. This will make it easier to check the even distribution of expanded clay. Although this condition is advisory in nature.

So, pour expanded clay on the entire surface (thickness - 30 cm). A regular garden rake will help distribute the granules evenly. If the attic will be used in the future and the floor is provided, then the expanded clay is laid according to the level.

If all the backfill is leveled, you need to put the GUI. Durable polyethylene is quite suitable. It is distributed with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Scotch tape is glued to the joints.

If you want to make a floor, then boards are laid on the beams.

This is a fairly cheap and easy-to-perform method that will help you insulate the ceiling in the bath with your own hands. But because of its cheapness, it does not become less effective.

Installation of thermal insulation

To achieve the main task - the accumulation and "saving" of steam, you need to make 2 layers of PIP and 1 more for thermal insulation. Such a measure will make the room warmer and more comfortable.

Experts advise placing layers perpendicularly. This arrangement will increase the strength of the entire structure and help to avoid severe deformation. If you use mineral wool and clay, then the process will take place in several steps:

1. an unedged board (5 cm) is taken and attached to the bottom of the beams;
2. to support the filing, we fix the flooring along all the bases;
3. tongue-and-groove aspen rails are attached to them (taking into account the gap for ventilation);
4. outside the roof we lay vapor barrier material;
5. on top of the laid mixture we distribute mineral wool 15 cm wide;
6. then we lay a film of polypropylene;
7. on top of the resulting structure we put boards, this is the future floor of the attic.

If everything is done correctly, then the result should be a great steam room. All the steam will stay inside for a long time, and the steam room will not cool down for a long time.

dry method of insulation

Specialists Sosnin Yu.P. and Bukharkin E.N. In their book they suggest the following method:

1. we take grooved boards (25 mm) and fasten them to the beams, then we process them with drying oil twice so that they become moisture resistant;
2. we sheathe them, observing the moisture gap - 3 cm;
3. we spread a film on top (polyethylene, roofing felt, and preferably a foil coating with reinforcement);
4. the next layer can be sand or slag (20 cm thick).

If you properly insulate the ceiling in the bath, following the recommendations and following the technological process, then:

• heat loss will be significantly reduced (up to 35%);
• there will be no fungi and pathogenic bacteria on the surfaces of the steam room;
• less wood is required;
• the steam room will serve you longer.

In addition to these positive points, there are others:

• you can do this work with your own hands without large investments;
• choose all the materials that will suit you in terms of price and quality.

And the best part is that you and your loved ones will be able to spend time pleasantly and comfortably in your renovated sauna.

The Russian bath is a unique place for relaxing and healing water treatments and communication. Strong immunity, beautiful skin and a body cleansed of toxins - these are the results of a constant visit to the bath. However, the effectiveness of bath procedures cannot but depend on the quality insulation of the bath.

Everyone has long been accustomed to the fact that it is necessary to insulate internal surfaces (floors, walls, ceilings) in apartments and houses. However, high-quality insulation of the bath is no less necessary. If it is enough to insulate only the walls in the apartment, then the bathhouse and the private house need careful insulation of the ceiling. The thing is that the heated air becomes lighter and rises. If the ceiling is not well insulated, then the hot air will go straight to the roof and heat the air around the house, and this is a waste of heat.

Insulation of the bath ceiling with mineral wool- an inexpensive and simple option. If everything is done correctly, then such a ceiling can last for many, many years.

Technology

Mineral wool is needed must be isolated from water vapours.. To do this, it must be closed with a vapor barrier, which must be airtight and waterproof. Today, foil is often used for vapor barrier, glued at the joints with aluminum tape. Among the novelties of the construction market is foilizol, a modern material made on a fiberglass basis. In addition, glassine, membrane insulation or ordinary polyethylene film are often used.

Bath ceiling can be:

• hemmed;
• panel;
• flat.

If the ceiling is false, that is, the boards are hemmed to the floor beams, it is necessary to insulate from the side of the attic. 2 layers of vapor barrier (glassine, roofing material, and so on), a layer of mineral wool, and again a layer of vapor barrier are laid on the ceiling.

To make the vapor barrier airtight, the joints can be glued with foil tape. Next, you can lay boards on the floor of the attic.

In case of panel ceiling, each panel is covered with a vapor barrier film, mineral wool is laid on it and closed with a vapor barrier. All this is sewn up with boards.

The easiest way to insulate a flat ceiling. The technology here will be the same as in the case of a false ceiling. To do this, a vapor barrier is rolled out on the boards from the attic side, then a layer of mineral wool 200-250 mm thick is placed on it and completely covered with a vapor barrier. Next, the floor is sewn up with boards.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among the advantages of mineral wool insulation you can call it:

• this material almost does not conduct heat and can well isolate the room, including from extraneous sounds;
• mineral wool is fire resistant and cannot cause a fire;
• fibrous insulation last a long time;
• the material is inexpensive and easy to use;
• mice, insects and other living creatures do not start in mineral wool, mold will not appear on mineral wool and putrefactive processes will not go in it;
• mineral wool is completely environmentally friendly and will not harm health;
• mineral wool is durable and perfectly resists mechanical stress.

Everything has its downside, and mineral wool as a material for insulating the ceiling of a bath, unfortunately, was no exception. It has few disadvantages, if we compare their number with the number of advantages, but These shortcomings are very significant.. Consider them:

• mineral wool cannot be crushed or tamped, because the compacted fibers greatly lose their thermal insulation properties;
• mineral wool must be completely isolated from the slightest evaporation of water, because when wet it will lose all its useful properties for warming.

So, mineral wool insulation technology not so complicated. It can be used independently and without special building skills.

It's cold outside, but it's warm inside. The temperature in the steam room is under 80 °. How to create optimal conditions for maintaining heat, because it is known that hot air tends to rise. Up to 40% of heat escapes through the ceiling, so its insulation is a fundamental moment in the construction of an effective bath. Especially important is the arrangement of the ceiling of the steam room and the sealing of the chimney.

The choice of insulation

What is important to consider when insulating the ceilings of the bath. It is necessary to exclude the presence of cracks and gaps, perform vapor barrier, choose the right material for thermal insulation. All this is necessary to create a reliable barrier to heat loss and prevent the formation of condensate.

Important! The condensate formed in the insulation layer destroys it, significantly reduces its service life, the quality of the interior finish and the service life of the entire structure. Properly selected vapor barrier materials will exclude such phenomena. Insulation is useless without proper ventilation and vapor barrier.

The use of natural insulation is the main condition for safety, environmental safety, not to mention the discomfort that occurs when chemicals evaporate.

Styrofoam, polystyrenes, mineral wool based on phenols are not suitable for warming the bath. But mineral wool made from dolomite fibers is quite suitable for these purposes. We choose from those materials that can withstand heating within 100 °. The best choice:

• glass wool, without any impurities, pure glass wool is not suitable, the one used in heating mains;
• vermiculite, made as a result of high-temperature processing of crystals;
• felt, natural not synthetic without binding threads, its resistance to high temperatures is a record;
• expanded clay, bulk material, its disadvantage is its impressive weight.
• linen material is one of the most environmentally friendly, is a natural antiseptic, has a special strength, is durable;
• ecowool, a material made from recycled cellulose and wood fiber, to which antiseptic materials are added, is absolutely non-flammable.
• basalt wool, it does not burn, goes to the chimney lining.

The list will not be complete without mentioning the good old grandfather methods, including:

• sawdust, clean without debris and rot, medium-sized fractions, in order to exclude rotting, it is useful to mix them with ash;
• clay, ecologically impeccable, not subject to decay mixed with straw, is an ideal option for thermal insulation, one of the drawbacks is that perhaps in a month, one and a half, cracks may form in it, and the coating will have to be restored;
• moss, an ideal option, except that it is difficult to find such material.

It is better to build a bathhouse with an attic room, it is convenient to mount the ceiling cake from below and above, natural ventilation is available, and finally, in the summer there is a net better room for drying brooms, in a bathhouse with a flat roof it is deprived of all this.

It is important when installing a brick bath that special attention should be paid to sealing the beams, no matter how the ceiling pie is mounted, residual condensation will occur, in order to save the beams, good sealing is needed.

Ceiling technology

A large temperature difference requires a certain thickness of the insulation layer. For the middle strip, the thickness of glass wool, vermiculite should be at least 35 cm, expanded clay should be poured 60 cm thick, the optimal felt thickness is 45 cm.

It is necessary to lay out the insulation in a continuous layer, excluding gaps, poorly joined edges. Compliance with the recommendations on the thickness of the insulation layer will lead to the fact that the logs will be completely closed, which is correct.

How to make a ceiling pie.

1. First, a vapor barrier is laid, its layer should hug the logs, it is better to fasten the fabric with a stapler, it is impossible to completely close the logs. Foil or material with a foil layer is attached to the ceiling boards, here it is important to follow the overlap of 10 cm, which is fixed with aluminum tape.
2. A heater is placed on top of the vapor barrier layer, as a rule, the gaps between the logs are closed with layers of material,
3. Next, they put waterproofing, and if walking in the attic is supposed to be, they arrange flooring, a counter-lattice with a ventilation gap.

The ceiling is then sheathed with clapboard, the boards are attached to the logs.

Important! Glass wool is covered with a special membrane to prevent the scattering of fibers, expanded clay is covered with newspapers and sprinkled with sand on top so that cold bridges do not form inside.

The technology of warming guarantees the duration of the operation of the bath, reduces fuel consumption, reduces the time of heating, heating the premises.

ceiling in the steam room

The principle of arranging the ceiling in the steam room is the same.

1. First, aluminum foil is laid; foil materials based on expanded polypropylene should not be used.
2. Then you should carefully seal all the joints, eliminate the existing gaps, tape will help.
3. The next element of insulation is basalt wool, glass wool, which is laid in three layers between the beams.
4. then steam protection is laid, it absorbs moisture, does not let it through the insulation layer
5. The last step will be the installation of boards from the side of the attic and lining with clapboard, which should be sewn onto the rails, which will provide a gap of 5-10 cm for air exchange.

Important! It is good to check how well the ceiling is insulated in winter. Climbing up to the attic, you can see trickles of warm air. Check these places. The absence of such streams indicates high-quality insulation of the ceiling and, accordingly, the operation of the steam room.

When designing a bath, it will be useful to lay the height of the ceilings from 2.1 to 2.3 meters. This is the optimal height, the higher, the more difficult it is to warm up and keep warm.

How to properly isolate the space around the pipe?

Wooden ceilings are flammable, so the pipe should be placed between the beams, preferably in the middle. It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with fire safety standards when starting to equip a chimney. The distance from the pipe to the tree must be at least 380mm.

To prevent the chimney opening from being too large, an element such as a ceiling assembly is used, which creates an air gap between the heat-insulating material and the iron of the pipe.

Next, a heat-reflecting screen is installed, this is a stainless steel sheet, in the inner part of which there is a layer of refractory insulation, stone basalt wool. All this looks like a box around the pipe. They make a box of non-combustible materials, heat-resistant magnesite plates.

After installing the box, the space around the chimney is filled with basalt wool. Then they mount the sandwich pipe, the part of the chimney that goes to the roof.

Important! Use a sandwich tube equipped with a spark arrester. This design is somewhat more expensive, but it guarantees a wooden bath from a fire.

In general, from the pipe to the insulation should be at least 25cm. You can close the gaps with clay or cement, because tightness is the main condition for heat saving.

The heated air tends to rise and, if there is no obstacle in its way, it goes into the atmosphere. This barrier is the ceiling. In case of insufficient insulation, about 2/3 of the thermal energy can go through it. Therefore, in order not to incur unnecessary expenses for heating the street, it is necessary to insulate the ceiling of the bath with your own hands. Everything should be organized in such a way that condensation does not form on the wood, and because of it, microorganisms that can destroy the building material do not appear.

Types of baths in accordance with the characteristics of the roof

Depending on the structural features of the roof, log baths or beam baths are divided into buildings with and without an attic.

Baths with an attic have a significantly more powerful ceiling, which prevents warm air from escaping from the room. In this case, the thermal insulation of the bath ceiling
produced during the construction process. The air mass that fills the space under the roof also helps to reduce losses. The heat will be delayed a little more by the roof insulation.

In a building that does not have an attic, there are much fewer barriers to heat retention and they are too weak, so insulation is especially necessary here. But it is also necessary to do the insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with an attic or attic.

Features of the vapor barrier device

In any case, the vapor barrier material is laid first, and only then the heat-insulating material.

The following materials are used as a vapor barrier in baths without an attic:

• aluminium foil;
• thick cardboard, well impregnated with drying oil;
• wax paper.

Of the materials produced by the industry, the following are used:

• Polyethylene film (0.4 mm with variations). It creates a greenhouse effect and therefore is not popular. When using this material, leave a gap that is required to evaporate the resulting condensate.
• A special vapor barrier polyethylene film with villi that are able to retain condensate.
• Vapor barrier membrane.

The main task of vapor barrier is to retain steam and prevent it from entering the insulation. Due to the accumulated moisture, the service life of the heat-insulating material is reduced, the weight of the ceiling structure increases, and the quality of the insulation decreases.

Functions of bath ceiling insulation

With an increase in the required temperature in the room, the construction of a barrier to prevent heat loss becomes more complicated. This problem can be solved by laying heat-insulating material in a multilayer ceiling structure.

Thermal insulation eliminates the following types of thermal leaks:

• heat loss through ceiling cracks;
• the gradual movement of heat from warm objects to cold ones;
• overcoming homogeneous barriers with warm air.

With the proper organization of insulation, all the functions assigned to it will be implemented. In the case of illiterate thermal insulation, problems such as the formation of condensate, long heating of the room and the waste of more fuel can occur.

Types of insulation materials

Before starting work on thermal insulation, it is necessary to choose how to insulate the attic of the bath.

Mineral wool is a randomly intertwined fibers, air voids are formed between them, which perform the function of retaining heat. This insulation on the ceiling in the bath is used most often. When wet, mineral wool loses its thermal insulation properties. If the roof has insufficient protection against rainwater leakage, then it is recommended to lay a waterproofing material on top of the insulation. There must be a thermal insulation gap between the layers of waterproofing and insulation.

Also, the ceiling in the bath can be insulated with foamed polypropylene. This material is very light and will not weigh down the ceiling structure. Especially for baths and saunas, a material foiled on one side was developed. In addition to the main function of insulation, it reflects the heat flow with the foil side. Acting on the principle of a mirror, this insulating material provides faster heating of the steam room.

Expanded clay can also be used as a heater for the ceiling in the bath. It is used in large baths. It is necessary to fill in expanded clay with a uniform layer equal to 30 cm. The material is relatively light, but, nevertheless, the weight of the ceiling structure will increase. This insulation material, like mineral wool, absorbs moisture well, so a waterproofing layer is also needed.

Another option than to insulate the ceiling in the bath with your own hands is the so-called "folk" heat insulator.

In this case, the insulation is carried out as follows:

• Soft clay is laid with a layer of 2 cm. It can be replaced with a mixture of black soil and peat, wood shavings, which is poured with cement mortar, you can also mix clay with sawdust or sand.
• Sawdust or oak leaves fall asleep (you can replace any others).
• Dry earth is poured with a layer equal to 15 cm.

Also, growing aerated concrete is used to insulate the ceiling in the bath. To fill it, it is necessary to make a simple formwork.

Here are the different types of thermal insulation materials. And what is the best insulation for the ceiling in the bath to use is determined in each case.

ceiling insulation technology

Consider step by step how to properly insulate the ceiling in the bath:

• Boards are attached to the bottom of the beams.
• Roll-up shields are made, that is, low-quality boards are taken and two rows perpendicular to each other are knocked together. It should look like a box. Before knocking down the roll-over shields on the ceiling to the bath with your own hands, it is necessary to make calculations. Beams and shields should not be located close to each other, between them it is necessary to leave gaps equal to at least 5 cm. There must be a distance of at least 25 cm from the chimney to wooden shields. It is necessary to draw a diagram, and in accordance with it, calculate the dimensions and shape of each of the shields . To avoid confusion during installation, all shields must be numbered.
• Finished shields also need to be impregnated with antiseptic agents.
• Inside each shield there is a vapor barrier in the bath. It must be secured with staples.
• The shields go up. You need to start with those that will be installed last.
• Shields are placed in accordance with the numbering. Installation is carried out in such a way that the lower planes of the shield and the beam coincide.
• Then, heat-insulating material is placed in the "boxes". It is also necessary to insulate the joints between the shields and beams. The owners of the bath independently select the better to insulate the ceiling in the bath. The choice depends on a combination of various factors.
• Boards are laid on top. They must be placed across the beams. In this case, it is not necessary to take the board to its full length; short boards can also be used. Boards can be replaced with fiberboard or self-made slabs from a solution of cement mixed with sawdust.
• The finished ceiling should be treated with fire-fighting agents.
• All wooden elements located near the chimney must be covered with asbestos sheets.

The insulated ceiling is ready.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling in the steam room

The ceiling of the steam room should perform two functions: do not let warm air and steam out and ensure the accumulation of steam in the room. The ceiling of the steam room should contain two layers of vapor barrier and additional layers of thermal insulation.

Consider several options for installing the ceiling in the steam room.

Design from Sosnin Yu.P. and Bukharkina E.N.

• Groove boards 25 mm thick are taken and attached to the beams. The boards must be covered with drying oil in two layers, which should give them moisture resistance.
• Boards of poor quality are fastened across the top of the beams. There should be a distance of 3 cm between them. In this way, a moisture gap is created.
• Further, a roofing material or plastic film spreads over the boards. Reinforced foil works best.
• Slag or sand falls asleep. The layer should be equal to 20 cm.

Other ways to insulate the ceiling in the steam room

The technology for performing thermal insulation using clay and mineral wool is as follows:

• For filing from below to the ceiling beams, an unedged board 5 cm thick is used.
• Outside, a narrow board is attached along the beams with the help of capercaillie. It is required to support the binder.
• Grooved aspen boards are screwed to a fixed thin board, a ventilation gap must be left between them.
• From the side of the attic, a vapor barrier material is spread.
• Then a layer of 3 cm is laid mixed with sawdust clay.
• Mineral wool is laid. You should take a heater with a density of 125 units and having a width of 15 cm.
• A polypropylene film is spread to protect against wind.
• At the end, the floor of the attic is made from the boards

If there is a log ceiling in the bath, then the crate is first made, and then the sheathing is attached to it. As a vapor barrier, glassine spreads on top. Then sand is poured with a layer equal to 20 cm. The rest of the actions depend on the desire of the owner of the bath.

For proper insulation of the bath, you need to know which insulation is best for the bath on the ceiling, in what order the layers should be arranged, as well as the features of the ceiling insulation in the steam room. The options for arranging the ceiling described above can be changed depending on climatic conditions and personal preferences.

The only thing worse than not having a bath is a cold bath. Those who do not want to face such a problem in the future think about warming in advance. This will significantly reduce the consumption of firewood. Before you insulate the ceiling in the bath, you need to choose the material suitable for this and carefully study the technology.

When the ceiling of the bath needs insulation

The laws of physics state that warm air is lighter than cold air, which means it tends to rise. The ceiling, on the other hand, restricts this movement, causing it to accumulate in the upper part of the room. Further, much depends on the thermal conductivity of the ceiling itself. If it is not insulated with anything, it causes a loss of 20% of heat. It is quite possible that this is not a problem for a summer sauna with a full firewood. In all other cases, it is worth taking care of reducing heat loss and insulating the ceiling with your own hands.

Insulation will also come in handy for those who do not want to spend the whole day on the firebox, because the ladle is easier to fill if it does not leak. It's the same with heat.

Which method to choose for warming inside and outside the room

The choice of insulation method is influenced by what is above the ceiling - a cold attic, a residential attic or a flat roof with a small slope, which leaves a minimum attic space. In total, there are only three methods for arranging the ceiling:

• grazing;
• hemmed;
• panel.

Flat ceiling with expanded clay insulation, clay and sawdust

For those who have an attic, but do not want to equip it in a warm warehouse or recreation room, the design of the flooring is suitable. It is considered the simplest, since it is not supposed to walk in the attic, which means that there is no need even for floor beams. The draft ceiling is placed on the piping of the building, that is, directly on the walls.

Important! There are limitations associated with this. The boards will withstand a layer of insulation if their length is no more than 2.5 m with a board thickness of 4–5 cm.

Different materials can be used, but the structure of the "pie" is the same in any case. It consists of layers (from top to bottom):

• insulation;
• wax paper;
• boards;
• vapor barrier;
• clean ceiling.

The vapor barrier material must not only be hydrophobic, but also withstand high temperatures, so its choice is limited. Most often, foil is used as a vapor barrier. The last layer is made of expanded clay (slag) or clay with straw.

In the first case, expanded clay is poured on a layer of waxed paper (so that it does not wake up through the cracks) with a layer of 20 to 30 cm. This thickness is enough to show the thermal insulation properties of this material. Fractions of expanded clay should be taken different, so that small ones fill the voids between large ones.

Often, before filling, divider boards are stuffed onto the draft ceiling from the side of the attic.

In the second case, the clay is soaked, and then straw or sawdust is added to it. There is another way. First, a layer of clay of 5 cm is laid, which is allowed to stand for 4 days. Then the cracks are smeared with fresh mortar, and a layer of 10 cm oak leaves is placed on top. Then clay again, but already dry (5 cm).

From the side of the bathhouse, a vapor barrier is attached to the draft ceiling, which is sealed with metal tape. Next, a crate is made, leaving a ventilation gap, on top of which a finished ceiling is mounted, for example, from a lining.

Each of these heaters has one significant drawback: a lot of weight. The draft ceiling will cope with it only if the boards are thick and the span is small. The advantage can be considered the cheapness of the material. If desired, the same flooring can be insulated with mineral wool, and expanded polystyrene in combination with expanded clay, and ecowool, but their cost is much higher.

You will need:

• tools: stapler, saw, hammer;
• materials: boards, foil, waxed paper, metal tape, galvanized nails, expanded clay.

For a bath measuring 225 by 225 cm, with a layer of expanded clay 30 cm thick, the volume of material required is 1.5 m 3.

Video: how to insulate the ceiling with expanded clay with your own hands

The sequence of arranging a false ceiling with a vapor barrier

This is a more complex design, suitable for those who want to build a second floor in the future. If you plan to walk in the attic, put furniture there, then you need to mount floor beams. On them, a hemmed ceiling is made.

You will need:

• tools: construction stapler, hammer, saw, knife, tape measure, mallet;
• materials: beams, foil, metal tape, galvanized nails, lathing slats, grooved board or lining, insulation, edged boards, membrane or film

To calculate the material, you need to know the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling, which is divided by the standard dimensions of the slab or roll of insulation. If it is bulk, then its volume is calculated: the height of the embankment, which depends on the climatic zone, is multiplied by the area. For example:

• room length - 380 cm;
• width - 350 cm;
• the height of the bulk insulation layer is 20 cm.

The volume is 380x350x20 \u003d 2.66 m 3.

The ceiling scheme is as follows (from top to bottom):

However, the work is carried out in a different order. The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. First of all, floor beams are placed on the strapping of the walls.
2. Then they are hemmed with a layer of vapor barrier from below. Usually foil, a construction stapler and metal tape for sealing are used for this.
3. The vapor barrier is additionally nailed to the beams with slats to form a ventilation gap of 2–3 cm.
4. For finishing the ceiling, either a good quality grooved board or lining is taken.
5. After that, the work is moved to the attic, where insulation is laid between the beams on the vapor barrier. Most often, basalt wool is used for this.
6. Waterproofing is placed on top of the insulation. For a bath, the membrane is preferable to polyethylene, because the previous layer must get rid of condensate.
7. Everything is covered with a flooring of edged boards, which will become the basis of the floor. It is better not to use cement.
8. Attic floor finish.

Video: hemming construction technology

How to insulate a panel ceiling

The most complex version of the ceiling device, so it is rarely used in baths. For him, you need to make pallets in which the insulation will fit.

You will need:

• tools: saw, hammer, construction stapler, knife;
• materials: galvanized nails, foil, mineral wool, bars, boards (pair quantity).

A standard mineral wool mat for baths and saunas has dimensions of 60x100 cm with a thickness of 5 or 10 cm. The material is easily cut with a knife, and when laying it, it can be compressed a little so that it lies more tightly in the spacer. The length of the "pallet" corresponds to the length of the room, the width of its inner part is 50 cm.

Knowing the length and width of the ceiling, for example, 360x360 cm, we can conclude that we will have to make 6 pallets 360 cm long. Each of them will fit 3.6 standard mats (60x100 cm). If the density of the mineral wool is high, it will not be possible to compress it strongly, so the trimmings will go into the “pockets”.

To insulate a panel ceiling measuring 360x360 cm, you will need 22 standard mineral wool mats.

Thermal insulation materials deserve special consideration. The fact is that not everyone is suitable for a bath. This is due to the increased temperature and humidity in its premises. The steam room is especially demanding on the material of the insulation. It should be:

• non-flammable, does not emit a lot of smoke during a fire;
• withstand temperatures over 100 degrees;
• absorbing little water;
• does not emit toxic substances into the air in any condition.

There is no ideal material, each has its advantages and disadvantages.

All work takes place in several stages:

1. First, on any flat surface (for example, on plywood), a structure is made from new bars and boards 60 cm long.
2. The bars are located at a distance of 50 cm from each other, the boards are nailed with 4 nails perpendicularly. In this case, you need to indent 5 cm from the edge.
3. As a result of the work, a shield is obtained in which the vapor barrier is laid. It, in turn, needs to be fixed with a stapler. It remains only to strengthen the shield with temporary braces that make it easier to carry, and raise it up.
4. At the top, the shields are placed end-to-end with protruding boards. Due to this, additional voids for insulation are formed.
5. The walls of the bath are the supports for the shields, so they should be the same in length. Insulation (mineral wool or glass wool) is placed inside the shields with vapor barrier. "Pockets" are also insulated. After that, flooring boards are nailed across the shields, on top of which a finishing floor is made.

A panel ceiling is an alternative to a hemmed one, since both are used in two-story baths. The owner is free to choose between the laboriousness of the panel and the financial cost of the hemmed one.

For the installation of a panel ceiling in the bath, it is undesirable to use plastic lining, polystyrene foam and plastic film.

It is difficult to name the best heater. Most often, basalt wool is used for arranging a bath.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of various heaters

Insulation of the ceiling must be carried out even during the construction of the bath. And you can do it yourself, if you carefully study the installation technology of various heat-insulating materials.