We go to the finishing: how to properly putty the walls. How to apply the finishing putty with your own hands: is it possible immediately after the start, how to properly align and when the finishing mixture is not needed Composition for applying putty to the paint

Almost any repair begins with the alignment of the walls before their subsequent finishing. However, what if the surface has been painted? Is it possible to apply putty on the paint or is it still worth cleaning the wall?

Study of surface properties

In order to find out if putty can be applied to old paint, its type should be determined. There are several main varieties:

If, upon contact, the painted surface bubbles and is washed off from the beginning, this means that the walls were covered with water-based paint. Can putty be applied over water-based paint? Under the influence of moisture, the paint layer is destroyed and washed off, so the applied putty, which also contains water, simply will not hold.
If the surface is smooth and shiny, and also does not react to contact with water, then this means that the paint is based on drying oil or solvents. Can putty be applied over oil paint? There is no single answer to this question. The fact is that putty can be applied to the old paint that is still holding on, however, if chips, cracks and swelling are noticeable on the coating, then the wall surface will have to be cleaned.

The difficulty lies in the fact that even if at first glance the wall covered with oil paint looks complete, it still requires a thorough check for chips. To do this, the surface is carefully tapped and probed with a special spatula to detect air bubbles under the paint.

Putty on acrylic paint

Acrylic is not as popular as the types of paints described above. However, it is also used for wall decoration. Can putty be applied over acrylic paint? Acrylic-based coloring pigment is as durable as its oil counterparts.

To ensure good adhesion to the smooth surface of the painted wall, a layer of primer with fine abrasive particles should be applied. They will penetrate into the pores and irregularities on the paint, which will create an optimal rough surface for good adhesion with subsequent puttying.

How to remove old paint

In most cases, the old coating must be removed. You can do this in several ways:

Water-based paint is thoroughly washed off with water, after which the wall surface must be well dried before applying putty or other finishing materials.
Oil paint is removed mechanically. It is a scraping of the surface using special tools. This method takes a lot of time, leaves a lot of dust and dirt. It is recommended to use personal protective equipment - goggles and a respirator.
The chemical method is the use of special reagents that destroy the paint layer. Substances that can harm a person are often used, so it is recommended that all manipulations be carried out with gloves, goggles and a respirator.
The thermal method involves heating the surface of the paint with a building hair dryer. As a result, the coating will begin to separate from the walls, and it will be quite easy to clean it off with a spatula and other tools.

Experienced builders recommend cleaning the old coating from the walls as carefully as possible. If islands of paint remain in some places, you need to make sure that they do not have swelling, because in this place the putty will definitely peel off. In addition, such areas are subject to careful sanding to create a rough surface.

Materials and tools

Can putty be applied over paint? You can, but it is important to choose the right building materials and tools:

Finishing work on paint is carried out which has a fine fraction and is applied in a thin layer. This is necessary in order to get a perfectly flat and smooth wall surface at the exit.
It is recommended to use gypsum or acrylic putty. It meets all the necessary requirements.
To mix the composition, you may need a plastic bucket and a drill with a mixer attachment.
Coarse sandpaper is used to sand the surface of the wall.
A small spatula is needed to scrape off paint that is unstable on the wall surface.
A large spatula will be needed to apply layers of putty.

When choosing a spatula, you need to pay attention to the fact that its blade should be perfectly even, and also slightly elastic for ease of application of the composition.

Surface preparation

The surface, cleaned of old paint, must be prepared for applying putty. To do this, it is worth inspecting the wall for dirty spots that need to be washed off. Then the surface is to be primed to ensure good adhesion of the putty to the wall.

If it was not possible to get rid of the paint, you should use the following methods:

A smooth painted surface does not adhere well to putty, so notches should be made on the wall with a knife or other sharp tool.
In some cases, builders recommend cleaning the surface with an iron brush or sandpaper to create a roughness.

Any of the chosen methods guarantees a good result.

Ground application

The use of a primer to obtain a high-quality result is simply necessary. It must be applied to the surface of the wall before puttying. It can also fix a layer of putty.

Experienced builders recommend using which has large fractions of mineral inclusions in order to create an ideal surface for fixing putty on the wall. The finishing primer, which is applied to the putty before subsequent finishing, is used with smaller fractions in order not to stand out too much against the background of a smooth wall.

Puttying on paint

Is it possible to apply finishing putty on the paint? This option of finishing work is acceptable, but you should adhere to these recommendations:

When preparing the surface for puttying, it is necessary to clean the wall of dirt and dust, as well as sand the surface that could not be cleaned of paint.
The thickness of the applied putty layers should be minimal. This is also indicated by the manufacturer on the label.
It is recommended to apply a layer of primer before puttying.
If in some place it began to lag behind the paint, this means either a poorly prepared surface or a too thick layer of the applied material.
It is important to pay sufficient attention to the drying of the mixture before proceeding with the finishing work.
At the end of puttying, it is necessary to cover the surface with a primer again.

Concrete contact is often used for these purposes. This is the name of the building material. which contains large particles, as well as substances that bind them. This type of putty adheres firmly to the wall for many years, and also does not absorb moisture. Many people who decide to carry out repairs on their own are interested in the question: is it possible to apply putty on paint? Answer: You can, if you follow the recommendations above.

Car putty

Putty is also used in car repairs. Of course, this is far from the material that walls are putty on, but the same question arises: is it possible to apply putty on car paint? It is absolutely not worth doing this, such a design will not hold and will disappear immediately after drying. It is important to remove a layer of paint from the car and clean the area to bare metal. Only after that the car is ready for applying putty.

Conclusion

Can putty be applied over paint? Coloring pigments are a fairly common finishing material, however, with subsequent repairs, they can bring some inconvenience. Of course, it is possible to putty painted walls, but before that you should examine the condition of the paint, and also try to at least partially remove it. This is especially true for those places where, from time to time, the coating began to separate from the surface of the wall.

The difficulty may be that the putty does not want to lie flat on the paint, even if it is pre-prepared in accordance with all the rules. In this case, a building mesh with small divisions is used, which is attached to the wall. On such a grid, putty is well retained even when applying a fairly thick layer of material.

Repairs are always complex and therefore, when puttying painted surfaces, you should prepare for additional costs if something does not go according to plan.

During repairs, you often have to choose not only furniture or wallpaper, but also finishing materials, thanks to which the walls will look harmonious. Putty is an indispensable element when leveling the side surfaces of a room for the purpose of subsequent wallpapering or applying other decorative compositions.

Putty is designed to eliminate roughness and cracks in the wall, as well as to seal them.

If you choose a special putty with hydrophobic or antifungal polymer components, you can also protect the walls from destruction and swelling.

Peculiarities

Most often, putty consists of one main element such as cement, gypsum or acrylic with the addition of fine particles for better penetration into the surface with any texture. A more expensive option is polymer-based composite compositions, which have a number of advantages, due to which puttying is much faster and more efficient. They are more expensive, but will last 5 years longer.

There are separate compositions for interior work in residential and commercial premises, as well as for repairs in the fresh air. In order to choose the right material, it is necessary to clearly understand which elements of the building require a mixture. If you want to putty with the same high quality both inside and outside, both the facade of the house and the window opening, you can purchase a universal putty, which is the most expensive in its line.

Putty is sold in different states of aggregation - both in the form dry mix, which must be bred independently, and in in the form of a ready-to-use creamy suspension. The dry version is stored longer, and only it can be brought to exactly the consistency that is required to seal a particular wall. There is less hassle with the finished mixture, and there is also no risk of adding excess water and turning the putty into a liquid slurry. There are also no clouds of white dust, leaving traces everywhere when pouring the dry mixture into another container.

The minus of the already divorced option is twice the price and less long-term storage. Another last option gives serious shrinkage when applied in a thick layer of more than 5 mm.

There are several stages in the puttying process, and each application stage requires different materials. Allocate starting putty and finishing. The last layer should be denser, so the texture of the coating here needs to be viscous and plastic. In any case, even if you didn’t like the result after the puttying process was completed, you can always redo it by re-applying another layer.

Despite this clear advantage over other finishing materials, it is still not worth overdoing it with the addition of putty growths - with a layer of more than 30 mm, lagging behind the surface or swelling even under the wallpaper may begin. So that after a long work the shrinkage of the putty layer does not begin, it is better to apply it to the wall in several stages. First apply a rough coat and let it dry for at least half a day. After that, you can leave a few more finishing layers alternately on the wall.

This technology will ensure the durability of the finish, even in rooms with complex wall relief.

If you do not save on putty and purchase quality products from Western manufacturers, then it will be easy and convenient to work with it. Polymer-based formulations usually lie flat, dry fairly quickly and do not have a strong odor. The latter characteristic is important when decorating interior living spaces, especially a bedroom or a nursery. For rooms for special or technical purposes, putties with such qualities as the ability to withstand sudden temperature changes, as well as high humidity or steam formation, are suitable.

Possessing high plasticity, putty allows you to apply several thin layers one after another in order to achieve a perfectly smooth surface. Also after drying on putty you can walk with varnish, oil paint or acrylic composition on the water, and not be afraid that water will dissolve the top layer. Even under adverse climatic conditions, a good putty should not shrink or crack, then the wallpaper will not leave ahead of time.

A slight discomfort can be caused by the fact that, when sanding the wall after the putty has dried with a special grinder or other equipment, you can inhale poisonous dust. Experts recommend working at the final stage of alignment in a protective mask so as not to damage the respiratory tract or burn the cornea of the eye.

Fine dust, which effectively creates a perfectly even wall, spoils sandpaper, quickly eating its particles into the structure of the skin. Given this fact, it is necessary to stock up on a sufficient amount of sandpaper, and the puttying process will be productive.

Types of putty

The classification of putty mixtures is made according to the main active ingredient in their composite composition:

Oil and adhesive putty considered the most economical option. At the same time, it resists high humidity and vaporization very well. It can also be subsequently coated with paint, but only on a similar oil base. Such a mixture is more suitable for technical premises such as basements, warehouses or boiler rooms, where the aesthetic appearance is not important, but the hydrophobic functions of the putty are necessary.

The wooden surface after applying the plaster is also perfect for filling with an oil composition.

This material is not suitable for subsequent wallpapering or painting with enamels, varnishes and acrylics - it will begin to swell and quickly be absorbed into the base primer.

Cement-based putty it is mainly used for technical rooms where there is no permanent heating, as it withstands temperature extremes and high humidity well. These qualities are also indispensable when finishing a kitchen or bathroom, where fine water suspensions often settle on a putty surface.

The main disadvantage of cement putty is poor elasticity, due to which, with repeated application of layers, the material shrinks. With the wrong technology, after shrinkage, cracks may appear on the walls or at the joints.

Gypsum-based putty- a very capricious material, since it is weakly resistant to a humid environment and temperature changes, it swells and exfoliates from the base in such conditions. But gypsum perfectly levels even the most textured wall, creating a soft porous film on the surface. Such a putty can be applied as the last decorative layer, because it is absolutely harmless after drying and gives a noble matte white shade.

The undoubted advantage of this putty is its low price, so the gypsum base is most often used in the repair of residential and office premises. For an environment with constant heating and moisture content within the normal range, gypsum putty will be an ideal option.

Acrylic or water-based putty- the safest for use in residential areas, because water does not harm human health. It has good plasticity and viscosity, therefore it ideally fills small cracks and chips in the walls, leaving an even layer that is pleasant to the touch.

You can stick wallpaper on acrylic or paint putty with acrylic paint of similar composition. It dries quickly and does not emit a pungent odor. Minus acrylic putty - reduced moisture resistance. Therefore, it is better to use it in rooms with a constant temperature and the absence of water vapor.

Polymer based putty- the most high-tech and at the same time the most expensive of all the above products. Thanks to the composite base, such a composition has collected the whole set of advantages for leveling walls. The polymer base has a high elasticity, so it is often used as a top coat to hide the bumps and small cracks left after the initial application.

It dries quickly, is easy to apply and economical to use, which slightly offsets its rather high cost.

The quality of the treated surface after polymer putty is much higher than after cement or oil putty, and it will last longer. This putty is used not only for wallpaper, but simply left without additional layers as a textured raw surface with the effect of antiquity and scuffs. It is also used when, after a putty layer, it is necessary to apply a thin material, for example, decorative plaster or silk-screened wallpaper.

Another no less popular classification is the division of putties according to the sequence of applying layers:

Starting putty or a surface leveling primary layer. The structure of such a putty is very rough, it itself is dense and high-strength. The first layer is in contact with the untreated wall, on which, in addition to moisture, grease and dirt, particles of previous paint and varnish and paper layers, as well as construction debris, may remain. Even when applying putty on top of the plaster layer, it is impossible to be sure that all of the above flaws were hidden by the plaster layer. The main task of the starting putty is to fill deep cracks and chips in the wall, so it is applied in a fairly thick layer - about 15-20 mm.

Due to the granular structure, this material has good adhesion or ability to adhere to the surface. The starting putty is relatively inexpensive, so many people decide to save money and leave the surface in this form, without applying extra finishing layers. This is wrong, since the very structure of the starting putty does not allow the wall to be perfectly smooth, but only prepares it for the next layer with leveling functions. The longer each individual layer is allowed to dry before applying the next, the better the surface preparation for wallpapering will be.

Lighthouse putty- unfamiliar material for the Russian consumer, as he simply does not understand its difference from the starting one. In terms of composition and final result, lighthouse and starting putties do not differ much from each other, but the first option can be used as an intermediate layer between the start and finish.

Wooden or metal slats serve as beacons, placed on the sides of the puttying zone in order to guide the evenness of the walls.

They are glued to the gypsum mixture. After hardening, it hardens well, and then just as well departs from the surface, leaving no traces. Such a material is less granular than the starting putty, therefore it primes the surface better. The price of lighthouse putty is significantly higher than the starting one, so with a limited budget, you can do without this technology.

Universal putty- an option for the lazy, because it combines the properties of both starting and decorative mixtures. It is suitable for those who want to quickly complete the repair, and I am sure that they will not understand the intricacies of applying different types of putty to each other. Despite the noticeably higher cost than the above options, in terms of properties it is inferior to both starting and finishing putties. The universal mixture is not so granular in structure, therefore its adhesion is not so great, and less plastic, due to which it can only be used for walls without obvious irregularities.

Finishing layer

To learn how to properly putty the walls in the apartment, you need to understand that the finishing layer is one of the most important stages of this process. For these purposes, it is better to buy a can of finishing putty. It is not intended for leveling deep cracks and chips, because layers of starting and lighthouse putties have already been applied before.

If the first few applications were performed poorly, then the finishing putty is unlikely to correct the situation. Its main purpose is to create a smooth surface, on which it is then convenient to glue wallpaper or attach other decorative elements. It is necessary to apply such a composition as thinly as possible - no more than 5 mm. The strength of the finishing putty is much lower than the starting one, so it must be applied very carefully, filling it with only small recesses and chips in the wall.

The second name of the finishing putty is decorative, which means that it can be used as the final element of surface finishing. It gives texture to a perfectly smooth wall, especially if gypsum or polymer fillers are used. In modern loft interiors and art spaces, this technique is not rare.

The walls there are often left in a layer of uncleaned and unleveled putty, sometimes even specially gouging chips in it.

Criterias of choice

In order to choose the right putty and not redo the repair then, you need to clearly understand for what purposes and types of work it is intended:

Buy better products from trusted putty manufacturers, for example German. It is in Germany that all building materials undergo an increased degree of testing for safety in domestic use and compliance with environmental standards. Recently, more and more worthy domestic representatives have begun to appear in stores - they are several times cheaper than their foreign counterparts. And the instruction in Russian is easier to understand.
Buying at the same time putty and related materials that will come into contact with it, for example, a primer, check that the composition and manufacturers are similar or identical. If it is wrong to choose primer, putty and plaster in tandem, then their incompatibility in composition can ruin the entire repair.

Read the instructions carefully, because it should indicate for which area and for what purposes this or that modification of the putty is intended. It should be clearly distinguished by the composition of the starting, lighthouse and finishing putties and choose at least two different options for layer-by-layer application. A mixture for interiors, such as a bedroom or office, is not suitable for processing the facade of a house or sauna.
think ahead, what will need to be done with the wall after puttying, because the choice of material depends on it. For putty under wallpaper, it is better to buy a dry mix and dilute it yourself with water in proportions corresponding to the texture and thickness of the wallpaper. If you strongly dilute the putty with water, it may not dry completely, and then just wet the wallpaper. When there is an intention to paint the wall after putty, it is better to use a ready-made formula, because it is better compatible with paint and varnish products.

If possible, you can gently open the container with the finished putty mixture and check the composition for the absence of bubbles or extraneous large particles and suspensions. Sniffing putty will also not be superfluous, because it tends to deteriorate, and with it the smell worsens.
For applying putty in extreme conditions of temperature difference or high humidity, you need to make sure that in instructions spelled out all the necessary conditions.

It is necessary to understand what kind of temperature jump the putty will withstand, as well as for what class of work it can be used.

Instead of several finish options, you can buy one container of universal putty. This will be more economical in the case when a finishing layer is needed both inside the building and on the outer surface.

Required Tools

For puttying the walls you do not need a huge amount of expensive professional tools, so this type of repair can be easily done on your own. Most of the elements are in every hardware store, and their total cost should not exceed 3,000 rubles.

Directly for applying putty is necessary set of spatulas- three pieces will suffice. The average size - about 20 cm in length - is suitable for small areas around door slopes and window openings. It is convenient to use a large fifty-centimeter tool when puttying the main surfaces of the walls. The smallest spatula in the set is simply indispensable for hard-to-reach areas and corners.
Soil mixture, as well as rollers and brushes for priming walls, after all, for high-quality surface preparation for puttying, one cannot do without the above tools. The principle of the ratio of the primer zone and the size of the roller is the same as for spatulas.

rule- a special tool like a large metal rail with a corrugated structure, so that you can hold on to the ledge and lead the tool along the wall. The rule is used to level the surface when applying a very large layer of putty.
Sandpaper or sandpaper. It is also better to take a set of two or three different sizes, because here the skins will differ in the degree of corrugation of the surface. Each layer of putty needs its own sandpaper to achieve the smoothest possible wall.

For convenience, you can buy skinner- a device with a handle where a piece of sandpaper is inserted. This tool is inexpensive, but it is much more convenient for them to sand large wall surfaces.
If you purchase a dry mix for puttying, then it is better to take care of large capacity in which you can dilute the putty with water. It is not necessary to specially buy containers in the store - any old unnecessary jar will do.

It is better to choose a plastic container, because it will be disposable.

Drill with a special mixing attachment for stirring the dry putty mixture is not included in the minimum set of necessary tools, and it is not cheap. If the house does not have such a device, you can rent it. Of course, you can try to knead the putty manually with a stick, but it will take a long time to interfere, and the result will leave much to be desired. For high-quality application of putty, it must be diluted to a state of a homogeneous creamy mass without lumps.
Laser level- also an additional convenience that is not included in the inexpensive minimum set. You can either borrow it from your neighbors or buy it for future use, as it will come in handy in future repairs. The device is installed in a corner like a beacon, and then the beam shows even minimal irregularities on the surface due to applying too thick a putty layer.

Surface preparation

The wall does not need to be specially prepared for puttying, the main thing is that it be clean and as smooth as possible. First, it is necessary to mechanically clean it from previous layers of wallpaper, newspapers, paintwork or plaster. If you can't remove everything by hand, use sandpaper. Separately, you should pay attention to stains of grease or soot and wipe them with white spirit.

To apply putty, the wall surface must be at room temperature. If an unheated temporary hut or other technical room is being repaired, then it is better to either wait until the summer, or heat or heat the walls with a burner.

You can apply putty directly on the cleaned wall, but for better adhesion of materials, it is advised to lay a primer with an intermediate layer. You can dilute the soil in the same container, which will then go for the putty solution. With a roller, the wall is covered with primer, applying it in one dense layer of about 5 mm. You can let it dry for 6-8 hours and repeat the procedure, or you can limit yourself to one application. Multi-layer soil is good only for finishing outdoor spaces with unstable climatic conditions.

How to level the walls with putty?

You need to prepare for puttying. Before starting work, prepare all the tools necessary for this process, because the mixture tends to harden and deteriorate, so you need to work extremely quickly:

To start you need to make a ready-to-use putty from the dry mixture. The technique here is simple, but if you do everything carelessly, the wallpaper will begin to move away from the walls in a month. It is better to dilute the putty composition in small portions for each section of the wall or ceiling separately.

Otherwise, the mixture may dry out in places, and solid particles will lie unevenly on the surface.

First, a little water is added to the container with putty and mixed with a simple spatula. The next step is to bring everything to a homogeneous consistency with a drill with a nozzle in the form of a mixer. Her blades are made of special steel, and they spin with a certain force, which helps them not to get stuck in the viscous putty composition.

The ideal consistency of the putty mixture is an elastic mass that sticks slightly to the spatula. If the composition is liquid and flows down, and does not stick, then gradually mix the dry mixture there. When the surface is covered with lumps or bubbles, it is too thick, and you need to slowly pour water into the composition in small portions.

The first layer of putty is the starting one, is a separate species, so carefully read the names on the cans of the mixture and do not confuse it with the finish. At this stage, you can safely use the largest spatula from the set, without fear of leaving uneven stripes or joints, because the finishing layer will easily cover all the flaws.

It is better to apply the mixture in small portions and evenly distribute it over the area., and not dump a big lump on the wall, and then smear it at different ends. The spatula should be held at a slight angle - no more than 30 ° C, then the material lies more evenly. The strip of mixture itself is usually applied diagonally in one sharp motion. Individual strips are overlapped on top of each other to avoid bumps and uneven joints between layers.

Slopes and joints are processed with a special spatula or corner. The main thing here is not to make unnecessary movements. Remember that the less putty you apply in the corners, the smoother the surface will be. First, the mixture is applied with a small spatula along the entire slope or corner on each side, and then the wall is simply leveled with an angled spatula. Corners are usually processed last, after which it is necessary to allow the wall to dry for at least a day before applying the next layer of putty.

For perfect adhesion and reliability of the entire repair, some craftsmen between each layer of putty lay a layer of soil. This method is more laborious, it takes from 2 to 4 days, since each layer of putty and primer dries for about 12 hours.

But the wallpaper on such a wall should last longer, and the fungus should form less.

The layer of finishing putty is the most important, because he is already responsible not only for evenness, but also for the smoothness and even glossy properties of the surface. It is applied in several thin layers of no more than 2 mm each, allowing each layer to evenly soak into the soil and dry. When working, large and small spatulas are constantly used in pairs. The finishing putty is denser and more viscous than the starting putty, so it is applied first with a small spatula to a large one, and then to the wall.
The final stage is grinding dry surface with sandpaper. It will eliminate even the smallest irregularities.

How to apply?

Puttying walls and ceilings with your own hands is not a very difficult task that a person who does not have professional skills in the field of construction and finishing works can handle. The main difference between this kind of finish is the number of layers applied. For puttying for subsequent wallpapering, one starting and one finishing layer of the composition is enough. If the wallpaper is very thin, then it is better to play it safe and lay the third layer of putty or primer.

When preparing the wall for subsequent painting, one must be more careful and leave the surface perfectly smooth, because the painted wall will not be able to hide even the smallest irregularities. In this case, after each layer of putty, it is necessary to walk with a primer roller to avoid wrinkles and air bubbles.

The most effective method of application is recognized as a mechanized method, when putty is applied using a special apparatus. This technology can significantly save both time and effort of the worker. The mechanically processed surface is smoother and of higher quality. Yes, and the solution inside the apparatus is constantly mixed during operation, so it does not freeze until dry lumps form and, with such a fine-grained structure, adheres better to the surface.

The application itself in a continuous stream under strong pressure allows the putty to be distributed evenly over the entire wall, due to which the surface is smooth. A special dispenser distributes the putty mixture in a very thin layer, which is almost impossible to achieve manually. Yes, and the joints between the individual strips when working with a conventional spatula are visible even to the naked eye, while the hardware method creates a solid surface.

Putty material is also saved due to the strict dosage.

The machine itself for mechanized puttying is quite bulky, so in a small fifteen-meter room you simply can’t turn around with it. It is more often used either for large industrial and office premises, or for rooms in a house with an area of at least 30 square meters. Its main convenience is the presence of an automatic mixer for mixing putty and a compartment for water supply.

You don’t have to worry that the mixture will be too liquid or dry, because the automation will bring everything to the desired consistency. Some models are equipped with a powerful compressor, with the help of which air is supplied to the mixing compartment so that the composition is saturated with oxygen and has better adhesion.

The control panel sets the speed and intensity of the jet with putty mixture, as well as the speed of the process of mixing the composition. However, even a mechanized system requires compliance with elementary rules:

The jet must be sprayed from a distance of at least 30 cm from the surface, otherwise with such force it will simply splash in different directions when it hits the wall.
A layer of putty begins to be applied from the corner of the room to create a uniform smooth surface without joints and gaps.
The resulting solution is distributed at right angles to the wall, otherwise the jet will not cover the surface to be treated, but the worker.

Puttying is necessary in protective clothing and a mask or respirator, because from any careless movement, a jet with a rather caustic composition, pushing off the wall, can get into the eyes or respiratory tract.
A mechanized puttying machine is a fairly powerful equipment that requires a lot of energy. It is better to connect it to a socket with wiring securely fixed in the wall without sudden drops in electricity.
The sleeve for water supply assumes connection of the device to a stationary water supply system. Such an opportunity is not always available, for example, it is not available in a summer cottage, where water can only be in a barrel. In such cases, they try to simply use a large tank of water, but this is not the most convenient way.

The device requires a sufficiently large amount of water, so it is often necessary to interrupt the puttying process for the next replenishment of the container.

Also, a vat of water is not so mobile that a person moves with the apparatus around the entire perimeter of a large room.

Even when using an automated system and obtaining the smoothest putty surface, you should not neglect fine sandpaper when finishing sanding after the main putty layer has dried. If the room is large enough, get a grinder to minimize manual labor. However, manually the sanding process should turn out to be no worse in quality than with a machine.

The main and only drawback of mechanized equipment is its high price. Usually such a machine is in the arsenal of teams constantly engaged in repair work. One-time use is not worth such expenses, and then you will have to allocate an entire pantry to store such a large machine. The best solution is to hire a third-party team of craftsmen or take the device for daily rent.

Another alternative to expensive equipment can be a conventional spray gun. Of course, the speed and pressure of its jet is not as strong as that of a mechanized apparatus with a powerful motor, and the surface will not be as smooth. In any case, even a spray gun will apply putty much better than a conventional spatula.

Unfortunately, the spray gun does not mix the putty composition itself, so you have to take a drill with a mixer nozzle. This option does not differ in mobility, because the putty is fed through a hose from a heavy container standing on the floor for mixing the composition. But the spray gun is not so expensive, it can then be used for many other types of repairs.

Application area

Completely different materials lend themselves to puttying, and not just standard concrete or gypsum slabs. If you choose the right mixture, then such a rough surface as foam blocks, foam plastic or OSB board will become completely smooth. In fact, OSB is a composite material made of pressed multilayer wood shavings glued inside with artificial polymer resin. OSB board is made on the basis of wood, so it has the properties of wood. After getting enough moisture, it swells and rots.

Although the multi-layer OSB material gives it increased strength and resistance to deformation, it is better to choose a ready-made mixture that does not contain water for its putty. This fact frightens many and makes you think about the need to putty the walls. You just have to take a closer look at the range of putty mixtures and find a special variety for woodworking.

It is made not on a water basis, but on an adhesive basis with the addition of drying oil.

The larger the layer of preliminary soil on the OSB plate, the better the putty will lie. The soil should also be chosen without water in the composition, but with the addition of varnishes, for example, glyptal. There is a separate type of special acrylic putty for OSB boards and other chipboard surfaces. To achieve the desired viscosity, they are simply diluted not with water, but with solvents. As for the oil-adhesive putty, it is also well suited, only it is better to dilute the mixture with drying oil.

The process of puttying such material is not much different from the usual one. It includes priming and cleaning the wall, and then the starting and finishing layers. The main action is to reinforce the surface with non-woven fabric at the last step, which is glued with an overlap, preferably without joints between the strips.

If roughness cannot be avoided, then holes can be cut at the joints of the sheets and filled with sealant or an additional layer of finishing putty. A prerequisite for carrying out all stages of puttying is room temperature of at least 20C and low humidity within 60%.

Fiberglass is a thin fiberglass material that breaks quickly on its own, but when glued to the wall creates a reinforcement effect that prevents the surface from succumbing to deformation. Putty fiberglass according to the same algorithm as GVL or gypsum fiber. This means that the wall is first primed, it is only necessary to choose a mixture suitable for the desired material. So, the primer for penoplex is completely unsuitable for finishing GVL.

The starting layer of putty is necessary for any part of the room, whether it be a slope or a window opening. If it is supposed to cover the wall with plaster, then the finishing layer of putty can be avoided. When the surface consists of foam blocks, then there should be as many layers of putty as possible, because the main component - foam plastic - strongly absorbs any water-based finishing material.

In the process of puttying walls and ceilings, there are many nuances, and if you know them, you can get a much better and more durable result. This is a list of basic useful recommendations:

When there are very noticeable cracks and chips on the wall for puttying, it is better to use gypsum-based mixtures for puttying, especially the santegypsum modification, which is characterized by increased elasticity and viscosity even at low room temperatures.

This property is also expressed in a disadvantage, because the santegypsum hardens rather slowly, but it puts a quality plaster on the wall.

To completely remove cracks from the surface, it is better to first expand them and even open them with a knife both in length and in depth. The resulting recesses and all adjacent surfaces must be carefully treated with a primer, and after it has dried, a starting layer of the aforementioned putty should be applied.

For high-quality application of several layers of putty, a paint grid is often used. It is inexpensive and available at any hardware store. With the help of self-tapping screws, it is fixed on the surface of the wall and covered with a continuous layer of overlap with a putty mixture, because this way it adheres better to the surface. Surprisingly, the coarser and more unprocessed the mesh is, the better and smoother the layer of putty lies. This technique only works for walls, and on the ceiling, the grid will always sag slightly and lag behind the surface.

The choice of sandpaper for the final sanding of the putty layer is very important, especially before wallpapering or applying paint. For example, a universal sandpaper under number 240 at any stage will make the surface much smoother. According to the general rules, grouting with coarse sandpaper with a large pile is used for the starting layer of putty. Fine skin is suitable only for the finishing layer. The work is more painstaking, but the result is obvious, because this sandpaper is the last tool, after which the wall is decorated.

See the next video for the secrets of puttying walls with your own hands.

January 15, 2018

The walls and ceilings of many apartments require additional alignment, and this problem can be easily solved by applying a special leveling compound. But is it possible to putty on the paint? Is it worth getting rid of the applied coating or can it serve as a base? To find out the answers to these questions, you need to determine the type of foundation.

How to find out the type of paint?

To find out if putty can be applied to paint, you should determine its type. This is the first thing to do before using a leveling compound. First you need to moisten the sponge in warm water and wash part of the wall. If the paint begins to wear off, forming foam, then this is a water-based emulsion. This type of coating must be removed before puttying, as it absorbs moisture.

Oil paint putty

If this is not done, then after applying the leveling compound, the paint will absorb water, which can cause cracking of the surface.

To get rid of this type of paint, it is enough to moisten the wall and leave it in this state for about a quarter of an hour. After that, you need to remove all excess with a spatula. The surface is then wiped with a damp cloth. Preparation for applying putty ends with a thorough drying of the wall.

If the paint did not react to water in any way, then it can be judged that this composition is based on a non-aqueous solvent. This suggests that it is possible to putty the surface without prior preparation of the wall. But in order to accurately verify the reliability of the coating, it should be scratched with an iron sponge or other tool. If the paint remains intact, it can be left, but the places where it is peeling must be thoroughly cleaned. Thus, the answer to the question "is it possible to putty on the paint?" may be different and depends on what type of coating the wall has.

Oil paint removal process

Before puttingty on the paint, it is necessary to remove its exfoliating parts. This is done in several ways: chemical, thermal and physical. To understand the principle of work, it is necessary to consider each of them separately:

Surface primer

To putty on the paint, the wall should be treated with a special compound that contains small particles and promotes better adhesion. Many primers are designed to be applied to a smooth surface, so they can be used in almost any situation.

There are other ways to create roughness on the wall. An example is the use of coarse sandpaper. If you clean it with her, then as a result, even a smooth wall will be cleaned of the coating and at the same time it will become rough enough for applying putty. This method is more time consuming, but saves money, since you do not need to purchase a primer.

putty process

Applying putty to the paint can be divided into 2 stages:

It is important to remember that when kneading the putty mortar, lumps should be avoided in it, which can spoil not only the appearance of the wall, but also cause the material to peel off. It is worth paying attention to the cleanliness of the devices used. If the mixer to create the mixture is dirty, then it will not be easy to get a homogeneous mass.

In order for the wall leveling mixture to be homogeneous, it must be kneaded in several stages, which involve keeping the mixed composition every 5 minutes after using the mixer. By doing this operation several times, you can achieve the perfect result.

If the described rules are followed, then puttying will happen quickly and without any problems.

Advantages of oil putty:

durability, subject to proper application;
plastic;
relatively fast drying after surface treatment;
not too high cost.

This type of putty is made from a mixture of drying oil, limestone, water and casein glue by boiling. It is flammable and explosive. Some experts call this material environmentally friendly, but it contains drying oil, the quality of which is problematic to check.

Among the disadvantages of oil putty are the following:

It does not combine well with coatings that do not contain drying oil or oil paint;
Oil putty is unstable to mechanical stress, so it is not recommended to use it for facade work.

It is best to use this type of putty for processing ceilings and interior walls. It perfectly closes up minor damage to the surface: chips, cracks, small depressions. This material makes sense to use to eliminate minor external defects. And thanks to the fast technology of mechanized application, oil putty is in high demand.

It is used to prepare wooden, concrete or stone surfaces for painting.

Secrets of applying oil putty

Before applying oil putty, the surface should be thoroughly cleaned and, if necessary, plastered. If the surface is fairly even, it should still be sanded and then primed to improve adhesion of the material to the wall or ceiling.

It is not necessary to dilute the oil putty: this is a finished material. Stir thoroughly before use.

Putty is applied with a spatula in a thin layer (up to 2 mm). If you need to apply a second layer of putty, you must wait a day until the first one dries.

After the putty dries, it is sanded with sandpaper, achieving maximum smoothness of the surface.

The right primer for walls for painting and putty

Sanding can usually be done 8 hours after the surface has been puttied.

Subject to all application conditions, after drying, the oil putty forms a fairly strong, resistant layer, on top of which oil paint can be applied. And if mechanized plaster was used before, then the result will be excellent.

Why do you need a floor screed in a new house

Strange as it may seem, it is best to start repair work when buying an apartment in new buildings with a floor screed device. About why this stage of improvement of your new home will not be superfluous at all, and will be discussed in the article.

Puttying drywall joints

There are many options for finishing the surface of drywall. You can stick wallpaper on it, paint it or apply decorative plaster.

The process of removing the old coating scares off quite a few, therefore, is it possible to apply putty on the paint - an exciting question and is quite natural for people who do repairs on their own, with their own hands. In particular, if these people are not quite experienced repairmen.

The price of the issue, as a rule, saved time and nerves, since the dismantling of previous coatings is one of the most time-consuming actions associated with the interior decoration of walls or ceilings. And with regards to the external one, there is not always the opportunity and the desire to clad the room with materials that do not require the removal of old coatings. So the issue of dismantling the paint also becomes very relevant in this case.

Can putty be applied to paint?, it is necessary to decide, as a rule, only after a clear clarification of what exactly the repaired surface was painted with. The second point that affects the decision is what condition the painted wall is in, what is the degree of wear of the previous coating.

We will try to tell you what criteria exist for determining the possibility of puttying on paint, what nuances may arise in connection with certain chosen methods. We hope that these tips will help you make the right decision so that the new coating you choose will last as long as possible later.

We study the type of paint

Under a categorical ban for putty - only a water-based emulsion. This is due to its hygroscopicity: old paint will draw water out of the putty composition, thus violating the integrity of the composition and gradually destroying it.

As a result the plaster will either not stick at all (which can be detected immediately and take appropriate measures), or will fall off the wall in the very near future (which is the worst possible option: you made a lot of effort finishing the surfaces, and after a short time they again require repair and additional investments).

It is clear that not always a person remembers or knows what the walls are painted with. Firstly, they could be painted by the previous owners of the apartment, who no longer ask about the type of paint. Secondly, no one keeps empty cans as a keepsake, and 5 years after the previous repair, its details fly out of the head. Therefore, a simple check is first made to determine the type of paint.
A small area of the painted wall is wetted with warm water. You can just spray, you can wipe with a sponge.
5 minutes are allotted for waiting, and the wet surface is inspected.

If foam appears from the water, you have a water emulsion in front of you, and you will have to remove it. This should not be so scary: it is washed off quite easily. After wetting the wall, the softened coating is simply removed with a spatula. But remember one thing: if such a coating is found, it must be dismantled. Then it remains to wait until the surface dries, and you can proceed to the putty itself.

Studying the wall

If, during the test, the paint did not begin to bubble, it means that it is based on drying oil or other water-insoluble compounds. In this case, the condition of the paint is carefully examined. It will have to be removed in such cases:

exfoliation. If the coating begins to peel off, the putty will not stick to it. You may not have to scrape off the paint from the entire wall: if the tatters are fragmentary, it is enough to clean only these areas;
swelling. Places where the paint has risen in a bubble are broken with a hammer and chisel and cleaned from the coating. If there are too many such deformations, it is worth considering the complete removal of paint;
high humidity. Here, the paint will have to be dismantled over the entire surface in any case. A damp wall will not hold an additional layer of putty either: it will fall off in pieces along with the old coating. Moreover, mold can begin to develop under the putty. In such a situation, it will be necessary not only to dismantle the coating to the very base, but also to treat the plate with antiseptic compounds.

With such global problems, you will have to look for a way to completely remove the paint. If outwardly serious defects are not found, you need to check how firmly the paint adheres to the wall. To do this, it is enough to draw the corner of the spatula along the surface to make a scratch, and try to pick up the coating with the flat side. If it does not begin to crumble, you can safely putty on top of the paint.

Getting ready for spatula

Immediately take on a spatula - in vain to translate building materials. Some preparations should still precede puttying work.

Minor delaminations and defects are sanded and cleaned. If cracks are found, they are expanded and cleaned to a concrete base, after which they are sealed. Further manipulations are postponed until the puttied defects are dried. If the recesses are significant in area, a plaster mesh is used for puttying.
The wall is washed with any dishwashing detergent. During operation, dust and dirt settled on it. This stage is especially important for the kitchen, where fat from cooking food settles on the surfaces.
To increase the degree of adhesion, the roughness of the wall increases. You can achieve results in different ways. First, treat the paint with coarse sandpaper. Secondly, making cross-shaped notches over the entire surface is the favorite and most reliable method used by professional plasterers.
Next, the surface is primed.
After puttying, is it necessary to prime the walls, and why do it before it?

You need to choose compositions specially designed for putty on paint. Particularly good results are obtained with a quartz primer containing fine particles and having deep penetration. However, it is expensive, so you may have to look for more democratic options.
The primer is repeated twice. The second layer is applied only after the first has completely dried.

Some doubt is caused by oil paint. It has very poor adhesion to all materials and is the most difficult to remove from surfaces. To enhance its adhesion to the putty, the notches are made deeper and more frequent, and before priming, the wall is treated with Concrete-contact.

Eventually, in a certain number of cases, the question of whether putty can be applied to paint can receive a positive answer. After a thorough examination and with some preparation, this is quite acceptable. But professional repairmen still insist on complete dismantling: all finishing work gives a better result on cleaned surfaces.

When repairing old buildings, sometimes a situation arises when walls or ceilings painted with paint have to be leveled. This raises a logical question: is it possible to putty on the paint, or is it better to spend energy on its complete removal? Will the putty hold, or will it eventually fall off along with the old layer of paint?

Examination of the painted surface

First of all, you need to figure out what kind of paint the surface is painted with. To do this, wet it with warm water using a sponge. If the paint starts to foam, wash off - this is a water-based emulsion, if moisture gets in from the putty, it will certainly begin to peel off. It is impossible to putty on such paint. It must be completely removed from the walls and ceiling. To do this, moisten the surface with a spray bottle or sponge with warm water and leave for 10-15 minutes. The paint can be easily removed with a spatula, after which the surface will need to be wiped with a damp cloth and dried.

If the paint does not come off from exposure to water, then you have enamel based on drying oil or another non-aqueous solvent. It is possible to putty on such a surface after preliminary preparation, provided that the paint adheres firmly to the walls. Checking this is quite simple: take a metal spatula and scratch the paint in several places, then draw the flat of the spatula along the wall. If the paint flakes and falls off, it will have to be removed.

Surface preparation and leveling

Remove paint thermally, chemically or mechanically. The chemical method involves the use of special compounds that soften the enamel layer to the point where it can be easily removed with a spatula. Such formulations contain toxic solvents and should only be used in a well-ventilated area.

The thermal method is based on the property of the old paintwork to soften when heated. The paint is heated with a building hair dryer and removed with a spatula. The mechanical method consists in peeling off the coating layer with a spatula or grinder. This is a rather laborious and dusty job, therefore, if the paint leaves only in some places, it is enough to clean them up and treat the rest of the surface with a primer.

A primer for paint should be used special, containing small particles that improve the adhesion of putty to the base. Usually, quartz sand acts as these particles, and the liquid base of the primer is distinguished by its ability to penetrate deeply into the paint layer, adhering to it. Such a primer is called "Concrete-contact" and is used to treat smooth surfaces, for example,. After treatment with a primer, the smooth surface of the paint becomes rough, which ensures good adhesion of the putty to the wall.

Roughness can be given to the wall in other ways. For example, you can apply grid-like notches to the surface of the paint using any sharp object, or clean the paint with coarse sandpaper, manually or using a drill and a special nozzle. These methods are more time consuming, but will help save money on the primer.

If there are cracks in the painted wall, they must be embroidered with a spatula, that is, remove peeling paint and plaster to a solid base. Sometimes, as a result, rather large irregularities are obtained, which are leveled with putty in several layers, and only after that they begin to level the wall.

Putty is usually applied in several layers with a wide spatula. The thickness of each layer should not exceed a few millimeters. Putty for various purposes differs in particle size, and sometimes in color - this allows you to avoid missing sections of the wall. Leveling compounds create a rougher surface, the finishing putty after drying should be smooth and even.

Each layer is applied after the previous one has dried. If unevenness has formed on the leveling layer, it must be cleaned with sandpaper before applying the finish layer. If you follow all these recommendations, you will soon not even remember that there is an old painted wall under the new even layer of putty.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 5 minutes

Many construction works are inextricably linked with such a type of finish as putty coating. And when it comes to a non-new building or premises, then often there is already a layer of paint on its walls. Then a logical question arises: is it possible to apply putty on the paint? The answer to it depends on what type of paint you are dealing with.

How to determine the type of paint on the walls

To determine the type of paint applied to the surface, a simple test is carried out - it is soaked with a sponge soaked in warm water. If it is covered with foam and begins to wash off, then this is a water-based paint; when putty is applied under the influence of moisture, it will definitely come off in layers.

If, after moistening, the color coating does not come off, then it is an enamel based on drying oil or other non-aqueous solvents. Puttying on oil paint is possible after appropriate preparation, if, of course, the painted layer is well-kept. To check this, scratch the surface with a metal spatula in several places. If the paint comes off in layers and falls off, it should be scraped off.

Ways to remove paint from a wall

Distinguish between the removal of the colored layer by chemical, thermal and mechanical methods. The first method is associated with the use of special compounds that soften the enamel to such an extent that it can be easily removed with a spatula. This method is inconvenient only because the product consists of toxic solvents, that is, they can only be used in a room with good ventilation. By the way, a household replacement for such a tool can be, in extreme cases, a solvent.

The effectiveness of the thermal method is due to the property of the old layer of paint to soften when heated. The paintwork is heated with a building hair dryer or a soldering iron, after which the paint begins to bubble and melt, and then removed with a spatula.

Tip: in the absence of a building hair dryer, you can use a blowtorch, but this is much more dangerous and requires strict adherence to safety measures.

Mechanical methods can be varied and quite unusual. You need to start with an ordinary peeling off a layer of paint with a spatula. Of course, this work is labor-intensive and highly dusty in the air, therefore, if the coating does not come off over the entire area, but only in certain places, it is better to clean just them. The rest.

If the layer is too firmly attached to the surface, use a metal brush to scratch the coating with it - this will help increase adhesion before filling. Another option is if there are no voids under the paintwork, make notches with a sharp object (for example, an ax) (the main thing is that their depth reaches the surface under the paint).

This contributes to a better adhesion of the solution to the surface when puttying is done on the paint. For the same purpose, paint stripping with coarse-grained emery is used manually or with the help of.

Tip: after such processing, be sure to brush off the resulting dust layer from the surface.

What to do if the paint cannot be removed

If it is not possible to remove the paint, a special primer is used, which contains microscopic particles, it is they who improve the adhesion of the base to the putty. Quartz sand is often used as such particles, the liquid component of the agent has the property of penetrating deeply into the paint layer, while simultaneously connecting with it. A similar primer designed to cover smooth surfaces is called Concrete-Contact. Its main purpose is to provide a smooth plane with roughness that will facilitate the application of putty.

If there are cracks in the coating, they are “embroidered” with a spatula, that is, the peeling paint, as well as the plaster under it, is removed to a durable coating. In the process, large indentations may form, they need to be leveled with putty over the paint layer, and then, after preliminary priming, begin leveling the entire surface., Which will greatly facilitate the work. It is especially necessary if the future plaster layer on the walls exceeds 10 mm.

With a significant deviation of the wall from the level or the presence of serious defects, the surface is first leveled with a starting putty, which has a coarse-grained structure;
The putty on the treated paint will hold on stronger if it is applied in several layers, the thickness of which is up to 2 mm. Each subsequent layer can be applied after the previous one has completely dried;
After the final drying of all layers, the surface is cleaned with a sandpaper or a special mesh so that the sags and traces of the spatula can be removed.

After that, it is applied according to the same principle. After the last layer has dried, it is also sanded to a perfectly smooth surface. This operation is especially relevant if painting is to be done.

As for the plastering technology, first a small part of the mortar is sprayed on to form a reliable base. When this base dries, proceed to the main leveling procedure with a plaster rule or trowels.

At the final stage, a primer is applied to the walls. After that, you can paint them or.