Electric drills are the most common fixtures used for drilling holes in locksmith work. They are heavy for drilling holes up to 20 mm in diameter; medium - up to 15 mm and light - up to 8 mm. Electric drills can operate on both DC and AC voltages of 127, 220 and 36 V.
Electric drill(Fig. 125, a) consists of a small electric motor placed in an aluminum housing 5. At the end of the motor shaft there is a cone 1 into which a drill 6 or a cartridge is inserted. Hold the drill during operation with both hands by the handles 3, rigidly connected to the body, and install it so that the center of the drill exactly matches the intended center of the future hole; then press the special stop 4 located in the upper part of the body, and the button 2, placed in the handle 3, turn on the electric motor.
Electric drills are used in cases where the product cannot be placed on a drilling machine or it is necessary to drill a hole without removing the part from the machine.
An electric drill can be used as a drilling machine (Fig. 125, b). In this case, the electric drill 2 is fixed on a special device (tripod) 4, equipped with a rotary table 1 that rises up and down to install the part. The pressure on the drill is done by hand using lever 3.
The efficiency of using electric drills largely depends on how they are installed at the locksmith's workplace. For convenience and ease of use, electric drills are mounted on suspensions, which are light two- or four-wheeled carts mounted on a monorail. The monorail is located above the workplace.
The tool is suspended above the workplace on a spiral spring (Fig. 125, c), on a cable with a counterweight, which is taken equal to the weight of the tool so that in any position the tool remains in balance on the spring block. The spiral groove suspension unit 1 has a band spring inside. When lowering the tool 6, suspended on the cable 2, the spring is twisted, when released, it unwinds and raises the tool. The current is turned on when the tool is lowered automatically by lever 3, which is lowered under the action of a spring in the switch box 5. When the tool is released, the current is automatically turned off, since lever 3 is deflected upward by stop 4 rising on the cable.
Rice. 125. Drilling with electric drills:
a - electric drill: 1 - cone, 2 - button, 3 - handles, 4 - stop, 5 - body, 6 - drill; b - electric drill on the installation: 1 - table, 2 - electric drill, 3 - lever, 4 - tripod; c - suspension: 1 - block, 2 - cable, 3 - lever, 4 - stop, 5 - switch, 6 - tool; d - fastening drills in special devices.
A significant disadvantage of these methods of fastening a power tool is that the body of the power tool during operation tends to turn in the direction opposite to the rotation of the cartridge, which tires the worker.
In this regard, it is much more convenient to fix electric drills in special devices (Fig. 125, d).
Recently, installations with reconfigurable pneumohydraulic heads have been widely used in industry, designed for simultaneous drilling of several holes located in several directions at different angles. Drilling of parts of various sizes and configurations is carried out with drilling heads in appropriate places and at given angles on the columns (Fig. 126, a) of the traverse. Drilling heads have adjustable hydraulic feed with fast reverse. The spindle is rotated by compressed air.
Rice. 126. Installing drills on special columns(a); device for simultaneous drilling of several holes (b)
Along with drilling heads, electric drills are used with a device for simultaneous drilling of two (Fig. 126, b) or more holes.
When working with electric drills, the following rules must be observed:
1) work only in rubber gloves and galoshes; in the absence of galoshes, a rubber mat must be placed under the feet. The body of the electric drill must be grounded;
2) before turning on the electric drill, you must first make sure that the wiring is in good condition and that the voltage in the network corresponds to the voltage for which this electric drill is designed;
3) turning off the electric drill can only be done when the drill is removed from the drilled hole, just as it is possible to remove the drill from the chuck only after turning off the electric drill.
High-frequency drills I-53, I-74 (Fig. 127) with a voltage of 36 or 220 V and I-59 with a voltage of 36 and 220 V ensure the safety of work. When working with such drills, gloves, galoshes, and rubber mats are required.
High-frequency drills have up to 1300 rpm and are used for drilling holes with a diameter of 5-8 mm.
The electric drill is designed for drilling holes in solid wood. This tool consists of an electric motor, which is connected to the drill chuck spindle through a series of fasteners.
Most often, twist drills are used for this operation. In addition to its direct purpose, an electric drill is used for polishing, grinding, stirring paints, etc. (Fig. 44).
Rice. 44. Electric drill.
In the course of work, the drill should penetrate into the array gradually, without jerks and shocks. If it is necessary to make a through hole, then the pressure on the wood as the drill moves forward must be reduced.
When working with a drill, the following drills are used:
- spoon;
- center;
- spiral.
At spoon drill in the lower part there is a longitudinal groove with a sharp edge and a screw sting, which pulls the drill along with it and gives it a center direction. During drilling, the chips are not removed, so the drill must be periodically removed from the hole. It is quite difficult to make an exact hole with such a drill. While drilling with an electric drill, do not press hard on the drill, as the wood may split and all work will go down the drain. Therefore, the use of a spoon drill is limited only to work that does not require great accuracy, such as drilling holes for screws.
Center the drill has better characteristics than the spoon drill.
Its cutting part is made in the form of a blade with a sharp end (center), a side cutter (roader) and a flat knife located along the radius. The drill is centered with a point and acts as follows: the wood cut with a side cutter is removed with a flat knife in the form of a spiral tape.
If you need to drill a hardwood, then quite a lot of physical effort will be required.
Spiral, screw, cylindrical drills are the most convenient. The helical, conical shape of the plunger helps the drill to easily enter the tree. Side screw ribbons end with sharp incisors (roaders), with the help of which the wood is cut in a circle.
The cut wood is removed with a flat knife and spiraled upwards. Road workers determine the diameter of the drilled hole. For finishing, it is better to use drills with a fine notch of the sting. To work with soft wood, drills with a large notch are needed. A twist drill is much easier to work with than all others.
Sometimes when drilling at the exit point of the drill, the tree breaks off, and the hole itself turns out to be beveled. In order to avoid these troubles, you should adhere to the following rules:
- the workpiece to be drilled must be securely fastened;
- the centers of future holes should be marked with an awl or drawn with an ordinary pencil;
- you need to check the accuracy of the direction of the drill twice: before drilling and after the drill enters a shallow depth;
- the direction of the drill when drilling deep holes can be checked by eye, along a line previously marked with a pencil.
To drill non-through holes, a limiter is used - a wooden block, which is placed on the side of the drill and drilled until the limiter comes into contact with the chuck.
Before starting work, a bar is drilled with a large-diameter drill and a device is obtained to monitor the drilling angle.
You can make several holes at different angles, which will later serve as a standard. Near each of them make the necessary mark to get a universal template.
Very often, wood chips occur in the place where the drill exits, and in order to avoid this, it is necessary to carefully monitor the exit of the sting outward: as soon as it appears, you should turn the part over and stop drilling. In principle, drilling in one direction is possible, but then a small block of wood should be placed under the bottom of the workpiece.
Very often there is a need to expand an already drilled hole. To do this, a wooden cork is inserted into the existing hole, and a drill is screwed into the middle. In this situation, the plug serves as a centering link and guides the drill along the axis of the smaller hole. The drill can also be used as an auxiliary tool for gouging nests. But this will require a drill, the diameter of which is equal to the width of the future hole. A row of nests is drilled to the desired depth, and then the remaining jumpers are removed with a chisel. Additional nozzles can be purchased for an electric drill, which can significantly expand the range of work with wood (Fig. 45).
Rice. 45. Additional nozzles for an electric drill: a - circular saw; b - planer knife; c, d - shaped and end mills; e, f - drills; g - countersink; h - perk.
During storage, to protect the drill head from damage, you need to screw a wooden or regular cork of a suitable size onto the sting.
From the book: Korshever N. G. Works on wood and glass
December 04, 2016 No comments
The drill is one of the most used tools in the household. Without it, it is impossible to perform most of even the most elementary work.
A modern electric drill is designed primarily for drilling - the most common type of carpentry work. "Smart" electronics, several modes of operation, improved ergonomics make it a high-performance tool, and work with it - convenient and fatigue-free. The use of additional equipment turns the drill into a versatile tool with which you can perform a variety of jobs.
1 - switch with speed control; 2 - reverse; 3 - electric motor; 4 - impeller for cooling; 5 - mode switch; 6 - gearbox; 7 - cartridge.
Drills are divided into household and professional. For continuous operation, a powerful tool is chosen that can withstand heavy loads and work without interruption for a long time - about 6-8 hours daily.
Household options usually have a power in the range of 350-800 W and are designed to work no more than 3-4 hours a day on a one-to-one basis: after 15-20 minutes of use, you need to take a break for the same time.
As practice shows, at home, a drill rarely works more than 30 minutes a year, the most suitable power for such a device is 500-800 watts. Buying a more expensive tool is justified with a large amount of work.
The kit of most modern household models includes an additional removable handle that allows you to securely hold the drill with two hands when performing heavy work - for example, drilling holes in a concrete wall. A stop is often installed on it, limiting the depth of drilling holes to the required one. To improve visibility of the work area, many drills are equipped with bright LED lights. The speed controller is important when drilling holes in different materials, but it is also useful when using a drill as a screwdriver. Thanks to the reverse function, you can both twist and unscrew the fasteners.
There are two types of cartridges: key and quick-clamping. In the key version, the drill is fixed with a special key - such a mount is more reliable and it is not by chance that it is usually used on powerful impact drills. Keyless chucks are divided into one- and two-sleeve. In the first, it is easy to fix the drill even with one hand. Secondly, you need to tighten the cartridge with both hands, which is less convenient.
Each type of drill is designed to process a specific material. There are drills for wood, metal, stone, plastic. Some drills are suitable for drilling different materials. So, high-speed steel drills are successfully used for drilling holes in wood, metal and plastic.
However, to drill, for example, holes for dowels in a stone or concrete wall, more resistant carbide drills are required. Large holes in wooden parts are drilled with hole saws (crown) saws with a replaceable annular working part. For precise drilling of holes in wood, drills with a guiding center are used.
If twist or screw drills for wood do not fit in diameter, use simple center and universal (sliding) drills or Forstner drills. Screw drills are used for deep drilling.
Approximate set of drills for a home workshop.
- Three-blade ballerina (circular adjustable drill) for drilling large holes in tiles.
- Ring saw.
- A set of drills for metal.
- A set of twist drills for wood.
- A set of universal drills made of high-speed steel.
- Surface milling bits for wood, drywall and plastic.
- A set of flat drills (perok) for wood.
Additional equipment
Many additional devices make it easier to work with a drill, contribute to better drilling.
Others - allow you to perform various types of work.
Twist drills are mainly used for drilling metal workpieces. When drilling holes, it is better to install an electric drill in a drilling stand. To prevent the drill from moving to the side during insertion, the drilling point must be punched. When drilling holes in metal blanks, the drill gets very hot and may even lose its cutting properties due to a decrease in hardness.
The drill is protected from overheating by coolants.
For simultaneous lubrication and cooling of drills, combined cutting fluids (coolants) are used. Pasty coolants (there are some) are applied to the drill before drilling. Liquid lubricant can be injected into the hole to be drilled from a syringe or hand oiler during the drilling process, or applied with a brush to the drill, removing it from time to time from the hole. When drilling steel, aluminium, copper and bronze, a special emulsion is used to lubricate and cool the drills. For the same purpose, when drilling brass and aluminum alloys, kerosene is suitable. in gray
dry-drill holes in cast iron.
At home, in the absence of special lubricants and coolants, machine oil can be used.
Hammer drill
Conventional drills are effective when working on fairly soft materials, such as wood. On concrete, they give in - impact drills are needed here. A chuck with a clamped drill of such a tool, in addition to rotational movements, also performs translational ones.
As a result, productivity increases - and holes in stronger materials are drilled without problems. Of course, if necessary, the shock function can be turned off. It is important to consider that an impact drill is still not designed for large volumes of work with hard materials. In such cases, a hammer drill should be used.
Lightweight and compact devices designed to work in hard-to-reach places are usually purchased by professionals. The tool is equipped with an angle gearbox. Angle drills are not impact, and their power is low. However, to work in difficult conditions, it is possible to use an angle nozzle with a conventional drill.
Drilling metal with a drill is somewhat more difficult than wood, brick or concrete. There are also some features.
For convenience, we have combined practical advice on this type of work into step-by-step instructions.
- You will need the following tools: a drill, a drill, coolant (oil is better, but water is also possible), a center punch, a hammer, goggles.
- When drilling metal on a horizontal surface, we put a wooden block under the product and fix it as best as possible. When working in a vertical position, rigid fixation is extremely important, since drilling must be strictly perpendicular.
- We make markings, after that, using a center punch and a hammer, we outline the center of the future hole.
- Pour coolant into a small container.
- We put on protective goggles.
- We start drilling. Do not exert strong pressure on the drill, because it is better to work at low speeds. If the drill is powerful, then the method of short-term inclusions is suitable, until the tool has had time to gain maximum speed.
- Do not forget to cool the drill as often as possible .
- When drilling is not strictly perpendicular, but at an angle, it is likely that the drill will jam. If this happens, put the switch in the reverse position. So you avoid injury and do not break the drill.
- If everything was done correctly, then even at home, using a low-power drill, you can drill a hole in metal up to 5 mm thick inclusive and up to 10-12 mm in diameter. More complex tasks will be discussed below.
Metal drilling work
It is possible, but this is in case of emergency for shallow holes with a small diameter. Unprofitable.
It is better to use either standard metal drills with steel grade R6M5 or improved - R6M5K5.
The letter K in the marking indicates that this is an alloy with the addition of cobalt. On the market you can find a drill, which is called "Cobalt". We will not vouch for all manufacturers, we only note that the reviews on practical application in the vast majority of cases are positive.
How to drill with a step drill for metal?
Step drills are universal - just one can make holes of different diameters (from 2 to 40 mm). They are most effective when working with thin metal, when you need to get a neat edge. They are better fixed in the cartridge, they are easier to sharpen, and therefore, with proper operation, they last longer, but they are also more expensive than usual ones. They work with the same principles, but it is easier to drill large diameter holes than with conventional twist drills.
Is it possible to drill metal with a Pobedite drill?
The principle of operation of metal drills is to cut, and crush materials with victorious soldering. Brick, concrete, stone are better suited for this. Therefore, as mentioned above, it is, of course, possible to drill metal with a concrete drill, but it will quickly become unusable and the victorious soldering will collapse.
Turnovers
What is the larger hole diameter? the lower the turnover should be. The more depth? the gradually you need to reduce the pressure on the drill. With a drill diameter of up to 5 mm, the torque should not be higher than 1200-1500 rpm. Accordingly, 10 mm in diameter - no more than 700 rpm, 15 mm - 400 rpm.
How to drill holes in large diameter metal?
As a rule, most drills for domestic use have a power of 500 to 800W, which allows drilling holes up to 10-12 mm in diameter.
How to drill metal with a thickness of more than 10 mm with an electric drill?
In metal up to 2 mm thick, using step drills, holes up to 40 mm can be made. With a thickness of 3 mm, bimetallic crowns are better suited.
Bimetal crown
When drilling deep holes with any tool, you may sometimes need a magnet to extract the chips.
metal drilling process
Particular attention should be paid to safety, be sure to take care of your eyes from chips, and if there is a skew and jamming, immediately turn off the drill and rearrange the torque to reverse.
In a power outage or where the noise of an operating tool may disturb others ( read: when can I make repairs so as not to quarrel with neighbors?) - the ideal solution for drilling metal would be a manual mechanical drill, the so-called brace. Low speed and pressure, no overheating, just what you need. Of course, there are also disadvantages - the cost of time and fatigue. In such a simple "old-fashioned" way, you can drill holes with a diameter of up to 10 mm.
We hope our advice will be useful to you.
More information in this video.
Coolant for metal cutting
Rolled metal drilling: types and technology
The drilling procedure can be safely called one of the most important technologies for processing metal products.
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The main purpose of drilling is to obtain mounting and technical holes of various diameters, depths and shapes, threading, countersinking and countersinking. This procedure is carried out on drilling machines of various sizes and configurations. Also, the Center MTS company is engaged in the production of stuffed glands.
With the help of the drilling method carried out on modern equipment and the use of a special tool, various operations are performed, among which the following can be distinguished:
Drilling cylindrical holes
Drilling holes with oval or polyhedral configuration;
Reaming, countersinking and even grinding of existing holes.
The drilling technology implies the possibility of obtaining both blind and through holes in metal structures of various sizes and shapes. At the same time, using special equipment equipped with CNC, it is possible to ensure high hole accuracy, prepare the product, for example, sliding supports for subsequent assembly or further operations prescribed in the technological process.
This method is used to process products or workpieces made of various types of steels and cast iron. Naturally, for each material, a cutting tool (drill, countersink, reamer) is individually selected, as well as processing modes, lubrication and other parameters.
This type of metalworking as drilling is indispensable in various industries, ranging from small enterprises engaged in small-scale production of components for equipment, and large factories that have a full cycle of production of a certain range of products. The accuracy of processing, as well as the characteristics of the holes obtained by drilling, directly depend on the machines, tools and technologies used.
. Using an electric drill
Its purpose is to drill holes in wood and metal. An electric drill consists of an electric motor connected to the drill chuck spindle through a series chain of fasteners. Look right. In most cases, twist drills are used for drilling. The drill should penetrate deeper into the material gradually, without jerks and shocks. If it is necessary to make a through hole, the pressure must be reduced as the drill advances.
In the lower part of the spoon drill there is a longitudinal groove with a sharp cutting edge and a screw sting that pulls the drill along with it, giving it a center direction. During operation, the chips are not removed, as a result of which it is necessary to periodically remove the drill from the hole. It is quite difficult to make an exact hole with this drill. When drilling, do not press the drill very hard, as the wood may split. For this reason, spoon drills are only suitable for jobs that do not require great precision, such as drilling holes for screws.
How to work with an electric drill
The center drill, in comparison with the spoon drill, has better characteristics. Its cutting part is a blade with a sharp end (center), a side cutter (roader) and a flat knife located along the radius. The drill is centered with a tip. It works as follows: the wood cut with a side cutter is removed in the form of a spiral tape with a flat knife. If necessary, drilling hard wood will require considerable physical effort.
The most convenient are spiral, screw, cylindrical drills. The screw plunger, which has a conical shape, contributes to the easy entry of the drill into the tree. Sharp incisors (roaders), cutting wood around the circumference, are the end of the side screw ribbons. The cut wood is removed with a flat knife and spiraled upwards. The diameter of the drilled hole is determined by the road builders. Fine-cut drill bits are best suited for finishing.
Coarse knurled drill bits are essential for working with soft wood. It is much easier to work with a twist drill than with all others. In some cases, when drilling, the tree breaks off at the exit point of the drill, and the hole itself turns out to be beveled. To avoid such troubles, you must follow the following rules:
- The workpiece to be drilled must be securely fastened.
- The centers of future holes must be marked with a pencil or an awl.
- The accuracy of the direction of the drill must be checked twice: before drilling and when the drill enters a shallow depth.
- When drilling deep holes, the direction of the drill can be checked by eye, guided by a line previously drawn with a pencil.
To drill non-through holes, use a limiter, which is a wooden block. It is placed on the side of the drill and drilled until the stop comes into contact with the chuck. Before starting work, a bar is drilled with a larger diameter drill, receiving a device for monitoring the drilling angle. It is allowed to make several holes at different angles, which will later be the standard. Next to each of them make the necessary mark to obtain a universal template.
Often, tree spalls are observed at the exit point of the drill. To prevent this, you should closely monitor the exit of the sting out. As soon as it appears, you need to turn the part over and finish drilling. In general, drilling in one direction is possible, but in this case a small block of wood should be placed under the bottom of the workpiece.
Sometimes it becomes necessary to expand an already drilled hole. For this purpose, a wooden cork is placed in the existing hole and a drill is screwed into its middle. In this case, the plug acts as a centering link, guiding the drill along the axis of the smaller hole. You can also use the drill as an auxiliary tool for gouging nests. To do this, you need a drill with a diameter equal to the width of the future hole. A number of nests are drilled to the desired depth, and then the remaining jumpers are removed with a chisel.
During storage, in order to avoid damage to the drill head, a wine or wooden cork of a suitable size should be screwed onto the sting. Don't forget - first of all!
