How to insulate a wooden ceiling. What insulation is better for the ceiling in a wooden house. A simple and effective method - roll insulation

Whatever efforts we make to insulate the walls and floor of the dwelling, a huge part of the heat energy loss falls on the upper part of the room. Therefore, it's time to talk about how to insulate the ceiling in a private house.

Today I will tell you the best way to insulate the attic beam ceiling in a wooden house, and also describe in detail the technology for laying heat-insulating material inside the house in the country. The article shows the most effective, in my opinion, scheme, when a vapor barrier membrane is installed from the inside, and the main insulation from the outside. But about everything in due time.

The choice of material for work

To begin with, I want to figure out with you how you can insulate a ceiling constructed from floor beams. If you study the advice of heating professionals, you can see that each of them offers different materials: expanded clay, polystyrene, perlite, polyurethane foam, and so on.

But from the whole variety of heat-insulating materials for warming a wooden ceiling, I suggest using basalt wool. In my opinion, this is the best choice if you decide how to insulate the ceiling from the outside along the logs. In support of what has been said, I cite the most important technical characteristics of this material.

A small fly in the ointment in this barrel of honey is the high price of insulation. However, taking into account all the performance characteristics listed above, I believe that this is the best material for thermal insulation of the ceiling in a frame or log house from the outside.

For work, I will use basalt wool slabs manufactured by Knauf Insulation TeploKrovlya Expert. They are cut into pieces 1200 by 610 mm in size, that is, with a distance between the beams of 600 mm, the insulation will fit back to back without forming gaps. The thickness of the material is 50 mm, since I will put it in two layers with alternating joints. One package is enough for 18.3 m2 of surface (but keep in mind that you will have to put in two layers).

Now you know how to insulate the ceiling. However, in addition to mineral mats, other materials with tools will also be needed. I will list them in the next section.

Necessary tools and materials

In addition to the insulation itself, you will need to stock up on other materials:

1. Vapor barrier membrane. This polymer film does not allow water vapor formed in the room as a result of human activity to penetrate into the insulation, causing the latter to become wet. It is better not to use impervious films, as all the benefits of breathable mineral wool are lost. An excellent manufacturer of vapor barrier membranes is Juta.

1. waterproofing film. A waterproof membrane that protects the insulation layer from moisture as a result of water getting inside the insulation cake due to a leaky roof or for other subjective reasons.

1. Plywood. With it, I will hem the floor beams from below, that is, glued veneer sheets will support the mineral mats between the rafters. Instead of plywood, you can use a board, GKL, GVL, lining and other similar materials. The thickness of the sheets is 10 mm, the brand is ordinary FK (you can use moisture-resistant PSF, but it has a higher level of formaldehyde emission).
2. Polyurethane adhesive for insulation. Sold in bottles, applied with a mounting gun. It is needed only in order to, if necessary, seal the joints of thermal insulation sheets. Since I have everything calculated exactly, and the mineral wool is laid in two layers, it is practically not necessary to use foam.
3. Wooden bars with a section of 5 by 5 cm. They are useful for mounting a counter-lattice from the outside of the ceiling, since a ventilation gap must be left between the insulation and the decorative material on top to remove moisture. Choose high-quality lumber, the dimensions of which are the same along the entire length, otherwise you will not be able to make a flat floor.
4. Grooved board. The attic above the ceiling in my case will be used as a residential attic. Therefore, I will make the floor (that is, the ceiling on the reverse side) strong and reliable from a grooved board. If you have just an attic there, you can limit yourself to plywood.
5. Fire and bioprotective impregnation for wood. This substance will need to process the floor beams and bars used for mounting the crate. The liquid will increase the fire safety of a wooden structure, destroy microorganisms and protect the enclosing structures from biocorrosion. You can use, for example, Bastion liquid, which, among other things, has hydrophobic properties.

As for the tools, the main ones are a screwdriver for tightening self-tapping screws, a stapler for fixing films and a saw for cutting plywood and foam. Everything else is the usual set of plumbing fixtures, available in the arsenal of even a novice specialist.

Well, now it's time to move on to the story of how to properly insulate the ceiling in a wooden dwelling.

Warming technology

Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in a private house is carried out in several steps. All of them are shown in the diagram below.

I will try to describe each of them in as much detail as possible.

Floor preparation

Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house begins with the preparation of the ceiling, which in my case is a set of load-bearing beams (from bars with a section of 50 by 100 mm) installed at a distance of 60 cm from each other.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. I carry out the processing of load-bearing beams. Several important tasks need to be solved at once:
   • Check the integrity of structural elements, remove damaged areas and replace defective fragments. If the beams are not new, they must be cleaned of mold and mildew with sandpaper and a grinder. Damaged sections are cut out and replaced with new fragments, and I advise you to completely change the heavily worn beams for new ones. Otherwise, the life of the insulated ceiling will not be very long.

• Treat the beams with fire protection. To do this, the primer antiseptic composition of your choice is diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the package, after which the ceiling beams are covered with it. It is best to work with a brush-brush, carefully rubbing the fire protection into the wooden surface (it should be well saturated).

1. I carry out the installation of engineering communications in the ceiling. Most often (as in my case) these are three separate systems - ventilation, electricity and a chimney passage. Each has some minor features:
   • I recommend insulating ventilation pipes (made of thin-walled metal or plastic) with polyethylene foam cylinders or mineral mats. This will improve the efficiency of the system and reduce the noise generated by the airflow.

• Electric wires in the ceiling of a wooden house (if you prefer hidden wiring) must be carried out in special metal or plastic fireproof channels. The latter prevent the ignition of the ceiling and the further spread of fire in the event of a short circuit.

• The intersection of the chimney pipe and the ceiling of a wooden house must be carefully protected with non-combustible fireproof material. I made a square box out of tin, which I mounted in the ceiling. Then the inside of the box was covered with expanded clay, which excluded the contact of the hot pipe with the boards and plywood of the ceiling.

Having completed the preparation of the wooden ceiling supports, you can go down to the living rooms, as further work will be carried out from inside the house.

Works indoors

From the bottom of the ceiling, we need to solve two problems - to exclude the moistening of mineral mats by water vapor dissolved in the air and to provide a reliable support for basalt fiber slabs (their installation procedure is described in the next section).

Therefore, the workflow will be as follows:

1. I fix a vapor barrier membrane on the floor beams. For this, as you already know, Juta vapor barrier film is used. The sequence of actions is as follows:
   • I roll out the first roll of insulating membrane, after which I fix it to the bottom of the beams using a construction stapler and staples. It is not necessary to pull it strongly, especially if the work is carried out in the warm season. The film should sag 1 cm every meter. In this case, after cooling (in winter), it will not tear.

• The second and subsequent rolls of the vapor barrier layer must be fixed in such a way that their edges form an overlap of 10 cm wide. This is necessary to ensure the tightness of the joints.
• After processing the entire ceiling, the joints of the individual sheets must be glued with adhesive tape. The result should be a picture similar to the one shown in this photo.

1. I install the bars of the counter-lattice. With their help, a ventilation gap is formed between the film and the decorative material (in my case -), which will help to remove the moisture concentrated there.
   • The lumber that I will use for work is pre-treated with a fire retardant and an antiseptic (in one bottle). It is better to do this outdoors and bring it inside after the protective composition is completely absorbed into the surface and dries.

• Directly through the vapor barrier membrane, using self-tapping screws, I fasten the bars to the supporting joists of the ceiling so that the parts are perpendicular to each other. The distance between adjacent elements is about 40 cm. Thus, the bars will form a gap and serve as a support for the mineral wool insulation boards laid in the sphere.

• Between individual bars, as well as at the walls, gaps of 3-5 mm should be made, which are necessary to compensate for the possible thermal expansion of the bars.

1. I hem the ceiling from below with sheets of birch plywood. I use this material because of the characteristics of the subsequent decorative finish. However, you can replace it with other suitable sheet or rack products. The scheme for mounting plywood is as follows:
   • I cut the sheets of material into parts of the required dimensions in such a way that after fixing the counter-lattice on the bars, there is a gap between the wall and the plywood. Through it, the condensed moisture will be removed from the air gap.

• I fix the plywood on the bars of the crate. For this, black self-tapping screws are perfect, which are protected from corrosion. The distance between the screws is 20 cm. They need to be screwed along the edge of the plywood sheets and in the middle, attracting the material to the supporting elements. There should be a distance of a few millimeters between plywood sheets to compensate for thermal expansion.

After that, you can finish work inside the living space and move to the attic, where the insulation will be laid.

Works in the attic

It is much easier to work from the outside of the attic floor than from the inside. The fact is that in this case you do not have to come up with various tricks to fix the mineral mats. They are easy and simple to lay on a horizontal surface and do not sag.

The detailed workflow looks like this:

1. I lay mineral mats between the floor joists. It is done like this:
   • Basalt fiber slabs are cut to the desired dimensions. I have the distance between the lags exactly equal to the width of the slab minus 1 cm (the slab is 61 cm, the beams are located at a distance of 60 cm from each other). That is, the thermal insulation will become a surprise without the formation of cold bridges. If you need to customize the dimensions, then for this I recommend using a file with fine teeth or a sharp stationery knife with interchangeable blades.

• The first layer of insulation is laid on a vapor barrier film and bars of a counter-lattice fixed on the lower plane of the ceiling. It is necessary to fit the heat-insulating mats to each other as tightly as possible so that cold bridges do not form along the seams. Then the second layer is placed on top so that the gaps are interspersed with an offset of 15-20 cm relative to each other.

• Joints between mineral wool boards can be filled with polyurethane adhesive-foam. It glues the insulation fibers together and forms a homogeneous heat-insulating layer, which excludes unproductive losses of thermal energy.

1. Installing a waterproofing membrane. It is necessary to use a special polymer film, and not ordinary polyethylene. The latter stops air infiltration through the ceiling, which negates all the advantages of using wood, mineral wool and other "breathable" materials. The scheme is as follows:
   • The membrane is rolled out over the insulation in such a way that the edges of one roll are located on the edges of the other, forming an overlap of 10 cm wide.

• After that, the film is fixed on wooden parts using staples and a construction stapler. It is not necessary to stretch the material too much so that it does not tear in winter. But there is no need to leave a lot of slack, otherwise the polymer film will rustle during operation.
• The joints of adjacent elements of the waterproof layer are sealed with adhesive tape. The film must form an impermeable layer to prevent water from entering the surface of the basalt mats.
• The film should lie on the surface of the basalt insulation. If its thickness is not enough to fill the vertical space between the beams, then the membrane must be lowered down and fixed on the side surfaces of the supporting elements using wooden blocks.

1. I fasten the bars of the counter-lattice to the beams. It is necessary when you are going to lay decorative material on top (in my case, a tongue-and-groove board for the floor in the attic). It is done like this:
   • Wooden beams with a section of 5 by 5 cm are screwed onto the beams over the waterproofing. They must be placed perpendicular to the direction in which the boards will be laid. You can fix the crate with self-tapping screws.
   • To avoid warping of the coating, I recommend not to install the bars close to the walls of the attic and to each other. Small seams a few millimeters wide will help compensate for the thermal expansion of the material.
2. I lay a tongue-and-groove board on top. I took this material

On this, the process of insulating the ceiling can be considered complete.

Summary

Now you know how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with mineral wool. But there are other, cheaper ways to insulate. Instructions on how to use expanded clay for this purpose are set out in the video in this article. And you can read about how to insulate a wooden ceiling from the inside (if there is no access to it from the attic), you can read in my other articles on this site.

You can leave your opinion about the information contained in the material in the comments below.

Although a wooden house is warm in itself, the upper building envelope in it is a weak link, except that the attic is heated, but this is extremely rare. Therefore, it is important to carry out the insulation of the ceiling in a private house in a timely manner, which will help reduce heat costs and save on heating the home.

There are several options for thermal insulation of the ceiling. To determine the optimal insulation and the way it is laid, it is necessary to evaluate the pros and cons of each method, do you agree? We propose to deal with this issue in order.

In the article, we examined in detail the technologies for carrying out thermal insulation work using different types of heaters, outlined the characteristics and operational features of materials. In addition, they told me when it is better to use external and when internal insulation of the ceiling, and gave advice on choosing a heat-insulating layer.

According to the place where the insulation is laid, all existing thermal insulation technologies are divided into two categories: internal and external.

There are pros and cons to each of them. The first method is more economical, but you will have to sacrifice the useful volume of rooms. And in the case of external insulation, they usually reinforce the floor, and then arrange the floor covering of the attic.

The procedure for insulating the ceiling, both in a wooden and in any other house, will not only retain heat, but also enhance sound insulation. Therefore, the sound of raindrops and the howling of the wind will not annoy the residents of the house. It will not allow insulation and the penetration of heated air inside when it is hot outside

Insulation from the outside is the risk of damage from any mechanical influences, so additional protection is needed. In this case, one cannot do without vapor and waterproofing, which will also entail an increase in the cost of the insulation layer.

The best materials for outdoor insulation

The industry produces a wide range of heaters. Each of them has its own properties, positive and not quite qualities. First of all, environmental friendliness is important - they should not harm health.

In addition to using traditional insulation technology, you can use a more progressive and practical solution -. Such a system can completely replace standard heating or become its effective addition.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Interesting ideas for ceiling insulation:

Nuances of ceiling insulation from timber:

If there is no residential or insulated attic in a wooden house, you cannot do without ceiling insulation. The ideal case is the insulation of the ceiling while still in the process of construction.

Installation of an insulating layer in an already built house is somewhat more difficult, but still possible. It is important to follow the technology and take into account the features of the selected heat insulator.

One of the problems in a private house is heat leakage through the ceiling. If in an apartment building there is a warm apartment on top, then in our case there is only a cold attic above our heads, or even just a street. How to insulate the ceiling from the inside in a private house, if for some reason it is not possible to do this from the attic?

Material selection

Let's start with the structure of the insulation. It will be multi-layered; we have to follow in sequence:

• External vapor barrier insulation;
• Crate for filling with heat-insulating material;
• actual thermal insulation;
• Internal vapor barrier;
• Finally, the ceiling must be hemmed with any finishing material.

vapor barrier

As a vapor barrier, glassine is most often used - an inexpensive material with quite acceptable consumer properties. However, if you need extra insurance against leaks, good old-fashioned plastic wrap is your best bet. It is absolutely impervious to water and has a service life of at least fifty years.

Vapor barrier sheets are laid with an overlap. If the ceiling is sloping (for example, in the attic), the film is laid in rows from the bottom up so that condensate cannot flow under the lower sheets. It is better to additionally glue the inner layer of the vapor barrier with adhesive tape. This will ensure absolute tightness.

Why are all these measures necessary? The worst enemy of mineral and ecowool insulation is condensate. Wet mineral wool greatly reduces the thermal insulation qualities. And indoor humidity in winter is always much higher than outdoors (see).

Please note: if we insulate the reinforced concrete floor from below, the top layer of vapor barrier is not needed. Between moisture-impermeable concrete and thermal insulation, there is simply nowhere for water to come from.

heat insulating material

Most often, two materials are used as insulation.:

1. Styrofoam. It's styrofoam. The slabs it is sold with are large enough; the recommended thickness for a temperate climate is 5 centimeters, for Siberia and the Far East - 10.

The main advantage is that this insulation is non-hygroscopic, it does not dampen. If so, with any fluctuations in humidity, the quality of the thermal insulation of the ceiling will not change (see).

1. Mineral wool (glass wool, ecowool, basalt wool and other variations on the same theme). The material is noticeably cheaper than polystyrene with the same degree of thermal insulation provided.

In addition, it is considered more environmentally friendly: mineral fiber does not emit anything into the atmosphere, and heated debates about possible harm to health do not subside about the properties of expanded polystyrene.

The debate about which material is better can also be endless. On any construction portal you can meet convinced adherents of both methods of insulation; Therefore, we will not impose a certain position on the reader.

Let's just say that the foam plastic changes properties over time to a lesser extent, not only in a humid environment: mineral wool caking over time. Even if perfect vapor barrier is provided.

If you choose expanded polystyrene plates as thermal insulation, the inner layer of vapor barrier is also useless. It is enough just to glue the seams between the plates with a wide adhesive tape (see).

Sometimes the foam is simply put on glue. From below, it is covered with a layer of decorative plaster - and the ceiling is ready.

crate

Two types of lathing are used: wooden and galvanized profile.

Wooden one is a little cheaper and a little easier to install. But the galvanized profile is not deformed by fluctuations in temperature and humidity, is not affected by the fungus and does not serve as food for insects.

Nuance: if we are talking about insulating the ceiling of a wooden house from the inside, you can safely make a crate from a bar or slats. Indeed, what is the point of making a suspended ceiling stronger and more durable than walls and ceilings? Of course, it is worth treating the material for the crate with an antiseptic.

Binder

Here everything is in your hands. The fastest way to hem a ceiling is with PVC wall panels. In addition, they are easy to wash.

However, drywall will give a smooth surface without seams; it is possible to build both a slatted ceiling and a suspended tiled one ... The choice of material is solely a matter of personal preference and the budget allocated for repairs.

Basic operations

As an example, consider the insulation of the ceiling from the inside in a private house for the case when overhead there are beams with a plank ceiling hemmed to them. The climate is temperate; we will be insulated with mineral wool 50 mm thick.

1. Armed with a stapler, we attach a plastic film to the ceiling. It will completely stop the flow of moisture to the boards from the room and extend the life of our ceiling. An overlap of a dozen centimeters is required.
2. We fill the crate. Hemming the ceiling will become PVC panels; a thin mounting rail is sufficient for them. But let's not forget about the thickness of the thermal insulation and take a bar 50x50.

We will fill it across the future panels with a step of 60 centimeters: in this case, the panels will not sag, and the mineral wool will not have to be cut in width. Most rolls are this size.

1. We fill the gaps between the bars with mineral wool. It is better to wear textile gloves and protect your eyes and nose: cotton wool fibers are volatile.

1. Again armed with a stapler, we hem the crate from below with a second layer of polyethylene. Additionally, we glue the joints of the canvases with adhesive tape: the greater the tightness we provide, the longer the insulation will retain its properties.
2. Finally, the last stage: we hem the wall panels from below. We will not focus on how this is done: installation methods have already been described hundreds of times.

Hemming the panels to the wooden crate is a more than simple task.

Conclusion

Our goal is achieved: the room is insulated from the inside. Winter is not to be feared. The downside was that we lost about six centimeters of ceiling height. Unfortunately, the victim was inevitable... Good luck with the repair!

Insulating the ceiling in a wooden house is not an easy task. The fact is that it is quite difficult to choose the best option. Each material has a number of advantages. Most often, the ceiling is insulated with sawdust. This material is cheap and easy to install yourself. However, experts say that sawdust is a very unreliable material, so it is better to use rolled materials.

Undoubtedly, the best option for internal insulation are rolled materials. They have a low specific weight, are very practical and durable. As a roll material, it is best to use or glass wool.

The process of warming a wooden ceiling using rolled material:

1. First you need to nail the nails to the ceiling. At the same time, they should stick out a little.
2. Pull string or string over the nails.
3. Next, you need to lay the heater. It is desirable to install with a partner, since it is very difficult for one to cope with laying the insulation layer and pulling the thread.
4. Then attach a specialized film to the ceiling, which will serve as an anti-condensation material.
5. Drive nails deeper.
6. Attach drywall or other finishing material to the ceiling.

During installation work, try to avoid the appearance of cracks. Even small gaps can become a place for heat leakage. In addition, harmful condensation can form in large gaps.

Do-it-yourself insulation of wooden ceilings from the outside

If you do not want to insulate the ceiling from the inside, it can be insulated from the outside. Do-it-yourself installation is easy. It is desirable to insulate the ceiling from the outside with foam. This material is durable and easy to install. Mineral wool can be used instead of polystyrene.

Before starting work, you need to clear the attic of various items. After cleaning, you need to take measurements. It is worth noting that for insulation you need to use foam sheets, the thickness of which exceeds 5 centimeters.

Insulation with foam is carried out in the following order:

1. Cover the entire attic space with sheets.
2. Fill the joints with mounting foam.
3. Next, you need to finish the floor of the attic. To do this, you can install a cement screed, which should be poured over the reinforced mesh.

The algorithm for insulating the ceiling from the outside with mineral wool:

• First you need to clean the attic and take preliminary measurements.
• Then you need to assemble the frame for the floor. Do not forget to install varnishes on the frame.
• After that, you need to lay a waterproofing layer. Glassine can be used as a waterproofing material.
• Lay sheets of mineral wool. Avoid gaps whenever possible.

Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house with sawdust and penofol: a step-by-step diagram

From sawdust and cement, you can prepare a good insulation mixture. For installation work, you will need glassine. Instead, you can take any other insulating material. In addition to glassine, you will need a couple of bags of sawdust and cement mortar.

In order for the mixture to last for a long time, you need to pay attention to the quality of sawdust. They should be dry and not very small. If the sawdust smells of mold, it is strictly forbidden to use them.

The scheme of insulation of the ceiling in the house with cement-sawdust mortar:

1. First, treat the wooden ceiling with specialized antifungal agents.
2. Lay a waterproofing layer over the entire floor area.
3. Mix sawdust with cement.
4. Lay the resulting mixture evenly over the entire area of ​​​​the ceiling slab.
5. Tamp the solution. To do this, you can just walk around the mixture a little.

Nowadays, penofol has become widespread, since this material is inexpensive and easy to install. In addition, penofol has high rates of heat and sound insulation.

The process of insulating the ceiling in a private house using penofol:

1. First you need to attach penofol to the surface. To do this, you can use staples or screws. Sheets can be fastened end-to-end.
2. Next, glue the joints of the sheets with tape.
3. Then make a wooden frame with slats. This design will help to avoid condensation.
4. Install drywall on the frame.

Insulation of a wooden ceiling with polystyrene foam with his own hands

You can insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with polystyrene foam. This material has the highest thermal insulation performance. The disadvantage of expanded polystyrene is its high cost. In addition, this material is highly flammable.

In order to properly insulate the home with this material, stick to the following algorithm:

• First you need to lay the material between the beams. The gap between adjacent tiles should be minimal.
• Fill the seams with mounting foam. There should be no gaps, since if they are present, the risk of heat leakage increases.
• Cover the ceiling with boards. You need to do this procedure only if you are going to use the attic.

Material on how to insulate the ceiling in the bath may also be useful:

You can also use a crate for insulation, in this case the algorithm will be as follows:

1. First you need to make a preliminary markup.
2. After that, you need to attach a crate made of galvanized profile to the ceiling.
3. Install sheets of expanded polystyrene between the profiles. Fill all seams with polyurethane foam.
4. Hem the panels.
5. If there are gaps on the wall, they must be closed with special ceiling plinths.

Insulation of the attic floor with polystyrene foam (video)

There are multiple options for insulating the ceiling. If you have the opportunity, it is advisable to insulate the home with polystyrene foam. In case your budget is limited, use a mixture of cement and sawdust. Mineral wool is also a good insulating material. It is worth noting that when choosing a method of insulation, you need to pay attention to the evenness of the ceiling. If there are a large number of distortions on it, it is advisable to insulate the dwelling from the outside with the help of rolled materials.

Wooden buildings are warm enough, but in our harsh winters they need mandatory additional insulation. More than a third of all heat loss occurs through the ceilings, warm layers of air accumulate in the space near the ceiling and exit the room through natural pores in wood and cracks. Obviously, the ceiling is one of the most vulnerable structures through which heat leaks occur. Consider how to properly insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands.

Ways to perform insulation

The basis of the overlap of wooden houses are timber or logs, on which boards are sewn. Ceiling insulation is performed in two ways:

• from the attic space;
• from inside the room.

If interior decoration has not yet been carried out in a new house or ceiling repairs are planned in an already operated house, then insulation can be done by any of these methods. And if the ceilings are beautifully lined and do not require repair, then think about the need for insulation from the inside, in which a new lining will require financial costs. In addition, the second method will reduce the height of the room and is more time consuming to perform.

In both cases, the technology for performing work is similar and consists of the following operations:

• vapor barrier;
• heat insulator;
• waterproofing;
• finishing lining.

The choice of insulation

Due to the many insulating materials, the question of which insulation is better to use for the ceiling of a wooden house is ambiguous even for professionals.

When choosing a material, you need to analyze the following indicators:

• environmental safety for human health;
• good characteristics in terms of strength, moisture resistance and durability;
• resistance to fire;
• reliability of heat and sound insulation characteristics.

Heat insulators are divided into the following types:

• bulk (expanded clay, sawdust) are used only for insulation from the outside;
• rolled (basalt or fiberglass mats);
• rigid and semi-rigid boards (foam, mineral wool);
• sprayed (polyurethane foam, ecowool).

Consider a ceiling insulation device in a wooden house with the most popular materials.

Insulation with sawdust

Sawdust is one of the cheapest thermal insulators obtained by sawing wood, which can often be obtained at all for free, some companies simply do not know how to get rid of them.

Depending on the equipment used for sawing, sawdust can be in sizes from 5 to 30 mm. The best are those obtained by sawing oak boards dried in thermal chambers.

Raw materials must meet the following basic requirements:

• particles should be of medium size, for small and dusty particles, thermal insulation characteristics are significantly reduced;
• it is unacceptable to use material with traces of mold and musty smell;
• the use of fresh sawdust and shavings with natural moisture is not recommended; before use, the raw materials must be kept in dry rooms for at least a year;
• mandatory treatment with antiseptic compounds and flame retardants, followed by drying before use.

Stages of work:

1. Dismantling of the existing flooring in the attic, cleaning the surface of debris, dirt and dust. Seal all cracks with tow with blowing foam.
2. Treatment of a wooden base with antiseptic and fire-fighting preparations.
3. A hermetic waterproofing device with an overlap on the ceiling beams, you can use a thick plastic film or glassine with gluing the seams with construction tape.
4. In a large separate container, a heat-insulating mixture is prepared. To do this, a bucket of cement is added to ten buckets of clean water and thoroughly mixed until the resulting milk is homogeneous. Then sawdust is added with constant stirring. The approximate ratio is 10 buckets of sawdust per 1.5 water with cement. The resulting mixture should be of the consistency of a thick dough with a dense enveloping of all sawdust particles. Visually, you should get a rich gray color without showing through white spots. Instead of cement, you can use clay, which is soaked in a container until it swells and mixed with sawdust in a ratio of 1 to 0.75. Ready-made mats from clay-sawdust mixtures are popular.
5. Uniform distribution of the mixture between the joists with smoothing with a trowel with light compaction.
6. If the attic is planned to be used for living or as a workshop, then a vapor barrier is arranged along the logs with fixing with wooden slats, which will create the necessary ventilation gap for the evaporation of condensate, and OSB boards, floorboards or moisture-resistant plywood are laid. If desired, you can arrange a topcoat on top (laminate, linoleum, parquet board).

Good thermal insulation of ceilings is obtained from sawdust granules made from fine fraction raw materials, fastened with carboxymethyl cellulose glue with the addition of antiseptic compounds and flame retardants. Such finished granules are unattractive to rodents, practically do not shrink and have low thermal conductivity.

In its pure form, dry sawdust is rarely used because of their constant self-compacting during operation, which requires periodic backfilling to maintain the required layer thickness. In this case, antiseptic and fire retardant treatment is mandatory, but a high degree of fire hazard remains.

How to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands foam

Penoplex - extruded foamed polystyrene, produced in the form of plates with an L-shaped edge, which ensures a good fit between them.

The advantages of this popular heater include:

• environmental friendliness, without the release of unpleasant fumes and odors during operation;
• compressive and bending strength (unlike foam, which breaks easily);
• almost zero vapor permeability, which makes it possible to do without laying a vapor barrier layer;
• high fire resistance;
• not susceptible to decay;
• low water absorption;
• versatility of use both indoors and outdoors at temperatures from -50 to +75 degrees;
• durability ≥ 50 years;
• does not clump with prolonged use;
• light weight plates;
• ease of cutting with improvised tools;
• low cost.

When laying indoors, the ceiling must have a flat and solid surface. Pre-cleaning is carried out from old paints and varnishes, dirt and dust. Then 2 primer coats are applied. A plate with a special adhesive applied is pressed tightly against the ceiling, the next one is laid close to it. To increase the reliability of fixation, it is additionally recommended to fasten with dowels with large special washers at the rate of 4 pieces per sq. m. If necessary, puttying and sealing of existing seams is performed, and then finishing decorative finishing is performed. You can mount a suspended or stretch ceiling, as well as fix the lining.

With external insulation, the heat insulator fits tightly on the crate between the lags. All seams are foamed with mounting foam. Even if the attic will not be used, it is advisable to lay a waterproofing material over the insulation with covering with plywood sheets.

Warming with mineral wool

Mineral wool is produced in the form of rolls and plates, which can be rigid or semi-rigid. The heat insulator has good thermal performance and low cost, but in its production phenol-formaldehyde resins are used as binders, which emit substances harmful to human health during operation. The material has a brittle structure, therefore, in case of any damage, its small light particles will be contained in the air, which is also dangerous. The insulation absorbs water well with a decrease in thermal insulation properties. Due to the above negative factors, ceiling insulation is carried out only from the side of the attic, the only exception is basalt wool.

1. Cleaning the ceiling from dirt with the removal of mold and fungi. Sealing of mounting foam cracks All wooden products are treated with antiseptics and flame retardants.
2. Vapor barrier device to prevent moisture from entering the thickness of the insulation. The membrane film is laid with a 10 cm overlap. The joints are sealed with tape.
3. Lathing with wooden beams. The step is slightly less than the width of the thermal insulator.
4. Laying plates between the bars. Fit snugly, but without squeezing. If they are laid inside the rooms, then they are put on glue, fastened with dowels with a wide hat or slats.
5. Waterproofing with a small ventilation gap from the insulation. Finishing coating. Indoors, suspension systems, stretch ceilings or clapboard trim can be arranged. In a non-residential attic, there is just a draft floor, and in a residential attic, tiles, laminate or linoleum are laid on the boards.

The use of sprayed heat insulators

Such heaters create one-piece seamless thermal insulation with high thermal and strength performance. The only drawback is the high price of the material and the need to use special equipment for applying.

The decision on how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house largely depends on the price of the material, but cheap materials are mostly short-lived, so saving in such cases is not advisable.