Plain plasterboard ceiling. Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling - all the secrets and nuances that you definitely did not know about. Installation of crabs and fastening of transverse jumpers

We continue our traditional series of articles from Yuri Voedilo (professional builder-repairman). Yuri writes:

In old houses, little attention was paid to beauty during construction, since the main task was to build quickly and reliably. Therefore, ceilings, as a rule, have different irregularities: protruding beams in wooden floors and differences in seams between slabs in reinforced concrete floors, as well as various distortions and recesses. It’s good if the defects on the ceiling are not large and can be eliminated with putty, but what if it’s simply impossible to putty them? And if this is a new building and you need to close the draft ceiling? Here we will be rescued by the sheets of drywall known to us for a long time. Of these, we will make a suspended ceiling of gypsum plasterboard sheets, which will close all defects, and it will also be possible to hide electrical wiring and other communications behind it. In this article, let's take a closer look at what we need to install such a plasterboard ceiling with our own hands and the sequence of its installation from marking the ceiling to puttying. We will also consider the technology and device for mounting the GKL ceiling in step-by-step instructions with a photo.

And in the process of work, we can not do without such a tool as:

1. Impact electric drill or hammer drill
2. Tape measure, pencil and building level
3. Water building level (transparent hose 5-10 meters long)
4. Cordless or electric screwdriver
5. Ladder
6. Thread or fishing line (preferably yellow)
7. Metal shears and a construction knife

Material for work:

1. Ceiling profile for drywall CD-60
2. Drywall guide profile UD-30
3. Suspension plates
4. Wood screws 32 mm
5. Dowels 60 x 40 mm
6. Self-tapping screws for metal 10 mm (fleas)
7. Sheets of ceiling plasterboard (GKL) 9 mm thick
8. Self-tapping screws for metal 25 mm
9. Tape reinforced with fiberglass (serpyanka)

Stage 1. Marking for mounting profiles

How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands? To begin with, we need to make sure that the ceiling comes out without distortions and strictly horizontal. To do this, you need to knock out the zeros of the room. To do this, we use the water level. It is difficult for one person to make such markup, so ask someone for help. In any of the corners of the room with a pencil we put a mark at a height of one meter. We apply a water level to this mark so that the water level coincides with our mark. And your assistant at this time should move from corner to corner of the room with the opposite end of the hose. In each corner, he will have to leave a mark at the water level. At the same time, you need to make sure that your mark does not go astray! All these marks (zeros) in the corners of the room will be the horizontal level of the new ceiling. From the zeros with a tape measure, we measure up the same distance to the height at which we want to make our plasterboard ceiling. In this case, it will be necessary to take into account the thickness of the drywall 9 millimeters and the thickness of the guide profile ud 30 millimeters. Also, do not forget that the minimum that will have to deviate from the draft ceiling is 10 cm, because a standard built-in lamp will take 10 centimeters in height.

Stage 2. Installation of the ceiling frame

Let's start with the fact that along the perimeter of the entire room at the height at which we decided to make a plasterboard ceiling with our own hands, we need to nail the ud guide profile to the wall using a perforator and dowel-nails measuring 60 by 40 millimeters and stepping 450-500 millimeters from each other .

Having fixed the ud guide profile, we will take up the cd ceiling profile. First you need to cut it along the length or width of the room, then choose for yourself, as you prefer. The main thing is that it should be easily inserted into the ud guide profile, if it is too long, it will begin to bend. If too short, it won't hold. Ideally, it should be 5 millimeters shorter than the dimension from one ud profile to the opposite.

After cutting the ceiling profile cd to the required length, it must be inserted perpendicularly into the guide profile ud. Between themselves, they are twisted with special self-tapping screws for metal, popularly called fleas. The cd profile is placed every 60 or 40 centimeters, this is necessary so that the distance is a multiple of 120 centimeters. Since this is the width of the drywall sheet. And the joints will fall in this arrangement strictly on the profile.

So that our ceiling does not sag, but is even, you need to fasten the cd ceiling profiles to the draft or old ceiling using mounting plates-suspensions. Strictly above the profile to the ceiling, we fasten the suspensions with self-tapping screws 30 millimeters long, or if you have reinforced concrete floors, then with dowels 60 by 6 mm. Suspensions are placed on each cd profile every 50-60 centimeters.

After that, through the middle of the room across the cd profiles, you need to pull the thread (preferably the black one is better visible) by attaching it to the extreme opposite ud profiles that are screwed to the wall. Having bent the suspension plate to the bottom, with one hand we hold the cd profile so that it barely touches the stretched thread and fix it to the suspension with a flea already familiar to us on one side and the other. Please note that you need to fasten with a dowel or self-tapping screw closer to the edge of the profile bend in order to prevent sagging under the weight of drywall sheets.

Using this method, you can make the suspensions longer or shorter, and the plasterboard ceiling can be raised or lowered to the desired distance.

Note: During operation, make sure that the other profiles do not touch the thread, as they may distort it.

Very often cd profiles are installed not only along drywall sheets, but also across. Practice has shown that transverse profiles should be installed only when installing multi-level ceilings. In this case, such a profile must be placed only at the joints of drywall sheets. Thus, you can significantly save on material, and in this case you will also have to refuse to buy crabs (special fasteners designed to connect the longitudinal with the transverse profile).

Stage 3. Screwing drywall sheets to the ceiling frame

If the suspension plates are too long, then it does not matter. They need to be wrapped up again so that they do not interfere with screwing the sheets. Before you start hemming drywall sheets to the ceiling frame, you need to think about the future lighting of the room! Consider where the fixtures will be located and in what quantity, since the wiring under them must be carried out before screwing the plasterboard.

Not everyone can and, moreover, not everyone wants to pay a lot of money to the team for mounting the frame, which you can light with your own hands. When ordering plasterboard ceilings in a bedroom, hallway or hall, you will spend much more money on their installation than when buying materials in a store. Is there really no way out? Just learn for yourself! And we assure you - the plasterboard ceiling is not so terrible, as it is described on the Internet!

After spending only 20-25 minutes of your time, you can make false ceilings from drywall without outside help. Therefore, right now we will pull away a "piece of bread" from professional installers and screw this thing with our own hands!

What is a drywall ceiling for?

Many people think that this design is only for beauty. In fact, everything is completely different and the appearance of the room is the last reason to make a false ceiling. Let us consider in more detail why it is necessary to make a plasterboard ceiling.

1. Savings on heating: you you will pay 10-25% less money for heating especially for tall buildings. From a ceiling of 320 centimeters (private house, Stalinka) you can make 240-250 cm, therefore, do not heat too much and warm air will be closer.
2. Ceiling alignment. Some emergency rooms require significant repairs. With the help of drywall, the problem with the ceiling is solved - you will smooth out any irregularities.
3. The problem of laying communications and engineering networks. Sometimes it's easier to hide them under drywall than to cut the entire ceiling and walls with a wall chaser.
4. Sound isolation. The best way to "get rid" of the neighbors and retire to your house or apartment. With high-quality insulation, you can even live at the airport.

There are other minor advantages: plasterboard ceilings allow you to make multi-level structures and dry quickly, which significantly speeds up construction and you can drive into a new house much faster.

Marking the ceiling for drywall - the first stage

Let's start with the purchase of materials and counting money. To know how much material will fly to the drywall ceiling in the bedroom, you need to mark it out and calculate it with a calculator. Let us consider in detail how the marking of the ceiling for drywall is done.

STEP 1: calculate the lowest point of the ceiling. You need to take a tape measure and measure all the angles. Take the smallest distance as a basis, step back 7 centimeters from above and mark with a marker.

STEP 2: Mark other corners. We take a laser level (you can also use a hydraulic level, but it’s more difficult to work) and “punch through” a straight line to the other three corners, make marks.

STEP 3: draw a line on the wall. We hammer in 1 nail at one mark, the other at the other, we stretch a paint cord between them (lubricate it with a little grease), then we take it aside and release it. He hits the wall, leaves an even trace - the line is ready. You can also simply draw a line with a ruler (level, profile) and a pencil.

STEP 4: fastening guides. We will start counting from them. We apply a metal profile 28x27 mm and drill holes through it in the wall every 10 centimeters. We take a sealing tape (sold in the kit), glue it on the profile, apply it to the wall and fix it with dowels on the holes made.

STEP 5: mark the wall under the main profiles. Drywall has a width of 120 centimeters and there are 3 profiles per sheet, that is, every 40 centimeters (at the edges of the sheets). We mark marks on any side of the wall every 40 cm, draw a line. We draw perpendicular jumpers every 250 centimeters (sheet length). The first suspension will be placed at a distance of 25 centimeters from the wall, further every 40-50 centimeters.

Important: do not forget to make marks on the wall where the profiles under the drywall will be. This will greatly simplify the search in the process of screwing drywall, because the sheets are large and you will have to make holes in it for a long time until you find a jumper in the middle of the sheet.

Now you can safely count all the lines on the wall and multiply them by the length or width of the room, respectively. It’s not worth sketching “in reserve”, since it’s impossible to spoil a metal profile and even a bent one can be safely aligned and screwed onto dowels. Additionally, at this stage, we need the following items for the plasterboard ceiling:

1. Metal profiles 28x27 mm (guides) and 60x27 (basic) according to the calculations.
2. "Crabs" for connecting profiles.
3. Sealing tape.
4. Anchor and dowel (for starters, you can take 50 pieces).
5. Level.
6. Drywall sheets (10 mm, moisture resistant)
7. Putty (3-4 bags per medium-sized room).
8. Screwdriver.
9. Self-tapping screws for drywall (25 mm for sheets of 10 mm).
10. Spatula and standard tools (ruler, tape measure, stationery knife, hammer).

After buying all this burda (most of the tools are probably already on the farm), you can get to work.

The second stage is the installation of a metal frame for the ceiling

The materials have been purchased and now the most boring, but important part of the work is ahead - fixing metal profiles and creating a solid frame for the ceiling. In principle, it is not much more difficult than, only in this case, the work is carried out with hands raised. Remember that it depends on the accuracy of the work whether your plasterboard ceiling will sag in 2-3 years or not.

STEP 1: we fix the hangers of the profiles to the ceiling. This should be done with anchors, since the dowel for a vertical surface is much worse.

STEP 2: growing profiles. Since 1 profile is not enough for the entire room, they must be fastened together. To do this, you need to purchase a special connecting fastener and fasten the profiles with it. The joints should be close to the suspension of the profile.

STEP 3: fixing profiles to hangers. It is necessary to evenly raise the profile by 2 edges (an auxiliary worker will not interfere here), screw one, rearrange the stepladder and stick the other edge. Further, according to the mark on the wall (where the profile is located), “grab” the profile over the entire area. We start fastening from the corners.

Important: never leave a profile without support on 1 or two self-tapping screws, as it weighs a lot and can break the attachment point with its weight or simply bend. At least 2 points in different corners of the profile, and preferably 3-4 points.

STEP 4: after screwing the corners, you need to check the profile with a level. Suitable tool length 250 centimeters. If somehow it was possible to screw it in crookedly, we unscrew it and adjust it with hangers in the right place.

STEP 5: in exactly the same way we attach all the profiles in the middle of the room, moving from the corners to the center, we fasten the jumpers (the junctions of 2 sheets of drywall every 250 centimeters). This can be done with a special metal crab. We cut the jumpers from the profile and fasten them together.

STEP 6: sound insulation and insulation. If the installation of a metal frame is implied with the installation of a heater and an insulator, then it's time to take care of it at this stage. We cut mineral wool into large pieces and fasten it over the jumpers.

Important: use goggles, a respirator and gloves when laying mineral wool, it can get into your eyes and cause severe skin irritation.

Mounting the frame for drywall is the most complex and lengthy process, all subsequent work is done several times faster and will seem much easier (however, they are easier).

Fixing drywall to profiles

When the steel is already hanging on your ceiling, another field for creativity opens up ... After installing the frame from the metal profile, you can move on to the drywall itself. After purchasing the material, it must be put in room temperature with a relative humidity of not more than 85%, let it rest for several days. Remember that you can not put the sheets vertically and store in this way- they can deform under their own weight, especially if they were a little wet. Let's move on to the mounting process.

STEP 1: cut off the edges of each drywall with a clerical knife at an angle of 30-40%, so that later it would be easier to seal them with putty. This applies only to cut sheets, since pasted sheets already have such a chamfer initially.

STEP 2: we lift the sheet (an auxiliary worker will not interfere) and attach it in the corners, then we look for a profile along the line marked on the wall and fasten the drywall there. If you ignored such labels in the first section, you will have to look for a profile at random. At least 15 centimeters must be retreated from the edges so that the sheet does not prick, remember this!

STEP 3: we check all the screws so that the caps are flush with the surface of the material, otherwise it will not work normally to putty, and “obliquely crooked, if only alive” will not suit us.

Fastening the GK sheets takes no more than an hour in a small room, since the frame is already smooth and all that remains is to grab them to the profile with a screwdriver. The frequency of tightening screws is 20 centimeters.

Sealing, leveling and counting materials

After the sheets are attached, it is necessary to prepare the putty and apply it with a large spatula, make sure that the corners are even, so that there is no excess of finishing material at the junction of walls and drywall. If you apply more, then you have to level the corners for a long time.

After the putty dries (6-8 hours), you can take a grout tape or paper and eliminate all “stains”, level the surface and prepare it for finishing. The ceiling can be painted in the desired color, make a stretch ceiling, decorative plaster and everything you need.

For a room of 20 square meters, you will have approximately the following amount of materials:

• 19 ceiling profiles in standard size;
• 110 hangers (fixing the profile to the ceiling);
• 8-9 sheets of GK 10 mm;
• 10 guide profiles (I'm molded to the wall);
• 24 crabs;
• 0.5 kg of self-tapping screws for fixing drywall.
• 30 dowels.

Having made simple calculations of the cost of hiring a working team, we can state that we saved 11,500 rubles by making a plasterboard ceiling with our own hands. Whether it makes sense to spend a couple of days and save this amount is up to you.

1. The joints of the connection of 2 metal profiles cannot be placed on the same line, they must be done at random, like laying bricks with a “bunch” in construction.
2. The use of sealing tape significantly reduces the noise level in the apartment, since the sound is not transmitted through the metal.
3. Get moisture-resistant drywall from a reputable manufacturer, its cost is slightly higher, but you will be sure that it will not “lead” and the edges will not break.
4. Use a screwdriver to screw the sheets, working with a screwdriver is simply unrealistic. Immediately buy an extra battery so that you can work continuously.
5. Finishing putty hides only small irregularities, so clean and apply the first layer as evenly as possible - it is actually the last.

If everything is done correctly and according to the instructions, the plasterboard ceiling will be no worse than the one made by the work team and 100 times better than the unfortunate guest workers at "half price" will make it! We also suggest watching a video on how experienced builders make a plasterboard ceiling:

Hello young drywallers! You were looking for a detailed step-by-step instruction for assembling a drywall ceiling, and you found it. Unlike most dull pseudo-construction sites, our authors really work in finishing. Now we will show you clearly the whole process of assembling such a ceiling, what you need for this, we will teach you how to avoid cracks and make everything even and beautiful.

Of course, we'll be talking about a simple one-level option, not some pointless, tasteless crap like this:

Gypsy renovation

First you need to figure out what drywall is, what it is, and what you need.

Gypsum building board, in the common people “gypsum board”, in the professional environment “gypsum board” is a sheet building material consisting of two layers of cardboard and a pressed gypsum core. It is clear that these materials are 100% environmentally friendly. Drywall is smooth, cheap and, importantly for many, “clean” material. This means that during its installation a minimum of dirt appears, unlike the good old plaster. Gypsum comes in different sizes, colors, thicknesses, with different types of edges.

Moisture resistant GKL Gyproc

Most popular sizes

• 2500×1200 mm - standard
• 3000×1200 mm - long
• 1500×600 mm - small format

The most common thickness

• 9.5 mm - for curved structures
• 12.5 mm - standard
• 15 mm - strong

Drywall types

• normal (GKL) - light gray
• moisture resistant (GKLV) - gray-green
• fire-resistant (GKLO) - gray-pinkish color

The main types of edges.

• PLUK – Knauf
• PRO - Gyproc

Comparison of PRO and PLUK edges

We will consider the most common option - the usual drywall 2500x1200x12.5 mm of the Gyproc brand with a PRO edge. Many ignoramuses sew 9.5 mm drywall on the ceiling, like, it is lighter, and even call it ceiling. These are not masters, but dolboyaschers. This is easily proven by opening any technical sheet of any major drywall manufacturer:

Proof

Ceiling, yes. It is exactly 12.5 mm that goes to the ceiling, this is a fact. As for moisture-resistant sheets, they, of course, will be more stable than usual ones, but still they are much more expensive, and therefore it makes sense to use them only for their intended purpose, that is, in wet rooms. Fire-resistant - we don’t need anything at all, but you won’t find them anywhere))

Advantages of drywall in comparison with plaster

• Drywall is able to level any humps and pits, at least half a meter, at least a meter, but as much as you like. The limit of gypsum plasters is 15 mm.
• The ability to hide any communications: ventilation, electrics, plumbing, beams, etc.
• The ability to make any useless bullshit, like curved surfaces, light pockets, niches, etc.
• Lamps can be built into drywall, and not just hung
• The construction is relatively light, but at the same time quite strong.
• You can apply heat and sound insulation. This, by the way, is one of the main advantages of drywall in principle.
• No dirt and high humidity

Disadvantages of drywall in comparison with stretch ceilings

• Significantly higher labor costs and installation time
• The need for puttying and grinding, which produces an overdose of harmful dust
• Inability to perform high-quality painting without experience
• Potential for cracking (due to installation or construction errors)
• If the neighbors flood you, the repair will cost a round sum and a lot of time
• The need to purchase and deliver a large number of various building materials

If, after reading this, you have not yet changed your mind about making a drywall ceiling, we wish you good luck and let's go.

What you need for installation

Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling mounting accessories:

1. Guide profiles KNAUF (or Gyproc) PN 28×27 mm
2. Ceiling profiles KNAUF (or Gyproc) PP 60×27 mm
3. Sealing tape Dichtungsband
4. Separating tape
5. Ceiling anchor wedges 6×40 mm
6. “Dowel-nails” (another name is “Quick installation”) 6 × 40 mm (ordinary dowels and self-tapping screws will not work, since the holes in the profiles are larger than self-tapping screw heads - 8 mm)
7. Cord breaking device
8. Laser level, or bubble, or, at worst, hydro level
9. Rule aluminum 2.5 m
10. Gyproc plasterboard sheets 2500x1200x12.5
11. Seam putty (we work with Danogips Superfinish)
12. Reinforcing tape for seams KNAUF Kurt
13. Roulette
14. A hammer
15. Stationery knife (or special knife for cutting the Civil Code)
16. Perforator + drill
17. screwdriver
18. Self-tapping screws for metal 3.5 × 25-35 mm (black, frequent pitch)
19. Self-tapping screws with press washer 4.2×13mm or shorter
20. Deep penetration primer (Knauf Tiefengrund, Feidal Tiefgrund LF)
21. Direct hangers
22. Single-level connectors CRAB
23. Metal shears or grinder
24. Mineral wool ISOVER or KNAUF Insulation 50 mm thick (if sound insulation is required)
25. KNAUF profile extensions (if required)
26. Narrow and wide spatulas
27. First aid kit, because with a high degree of probability you will cut yourself on the profiles, and this is not a joke

Well, don’t take deshman profiles

Before starting the installation, it is necessary to clarify some points of the previous chapter. For example, we write - KNAUF profile. This means that it is Knauf that is needed, not Economy or some other shit, because you can’t build a good ceiling from shit and sticks. And then at the box office of all sorts of Merua Lerlens, you can often see people with these “wonderful” profiles for 40 rubles each. I just want to shout to them “what are you going to do with this garbage?” No, seriously, you can tie this profile with your bare hands into a knot! Don't you even have a thought about why there is a profile for 110 rubles nearby? Really decided that this is a markup for the brand? No, it's just that the Knauf profile contains metal.

It is easy to distinguish a KNAUF profile - by marking

Now, what is Dichtungband, that is, sealing tape. It is glued to the back of the guide profile for a tighter fit to the wall. This results in better sound insulation. You can, of course, do without it, but you will save a little, and the sound insulation will worsen.

Sealing tape Dichtungsband

Plasterboard ceiling is not attached to the walls

What is the separation tape for? It is glued under the guide profiles around the perimeter of the room, drywall rests against it, the adjoining of which to the wall will be subsequently puttied. So, the putty does not stick to this tape, and our adjoining turns out to be sliding. Otherwise it is called "managed crack". The whole point of creating plasterboard linings is that they must be untied from the enclosing structures, so our ceiling should hang stupidly on suspensions, but in no case should it be attached to the walls. Yes, we attach profiles to the walls, but the drywall itself should not be screwed to these guides! Now this was the most important information that 95 percent of the “masters” do not understand. It seems to them that it will be more reliable to screw in more self-tapping screws wherever they get, but in fact they only make it worse, because then deforming forces begin to act on the drywall, hence the cracks. We'll talk more about this later. By the way, if you can’t find such a tape in hardware stores, you can use ordinary (not masking) transparent tape instead.

Plasterboard ceiling installation instructions

Stage 1. Marking the level of the frame and fixing the guide profiles

So, here we have such a room:

Our premises

The first thing we need to do is find the lowest corner of our concrete ceiling. The most convenient way to do this is with a laser, but you can also use a bubble level. The point is to deviate from this point by 5 cm, if it is not planned to make built-in lamps, or 9 cm, if they are. You can retreat even 4 cm, but then you will have to put the CRABs on the profiles BEFORE they are installed, and if it suddenly turns out that the ceiling sags towards the center of the room, everything will have to be redone. Here we recommend 5.

Next, draw a line around the perimeter using a laser or bubble level. If you only have a hydraulic level, we transfer the marks to all corners and connect them with a cord breaker (in the common people, a “lace”). Here's what we'll get:

Determined the level of the future frame

This will be the level at which the bottom rail shelf will be. They can be mounted through the holes already in them, or through-mounting can also be used. Usually in practice we use combos. The step of fastening the profiles should not exceed 50 cm. At the same time, even for short sections of the profiles, at least 3 fastening points are needed. It's funny, by the way, that this is a requirement of the KNAUF company, and the mounting holes themselves come with a step of 53 cm - a paradox. The load on these profiles will be low, they are only needed so that the edge of the ceiling profiles is fixed in level. We repeat, we do not attach drywall to them!

Installation of PN 27 × 28 mm is carried out through a sealing tape using dowel-nails 6 × 40 mm. They hold well in concrete and solid brick, but rotate in hollow brick and tongue-and-groove. In these situations, they need to be replaced with ordinary good nylon dowels and self-tapping screws with a press washer with a diameter of 4.8 mm. The best results are obtained when using HILTI dowels (HUD-L), but they cost a lot of money. The length is usually 50 mm. It is recommended to attach to such loose walls more often than in increments of 50 cm, here 25 cm is the most. In general, fixed:

Fixed guides

Stage 2. Marking ceiling profiles

In suspended ceilings, only the 60 × 27 mm profile is used, but conditionally it is divided into “main” and “carrier”. The main profiles are those that are attached directly to the concrete ceiling, and the carriers are already attached to the main ones with the help of CRABs:

Their step is 500 mm, and drywall will already be attached to them. The main profiles come with a step of 1200 mm, this is just the width of the drywall sheets. But for ease of subsequent puttying, the first sheets are slightly cut along (the factory edge is removed), so the distance from the wall to the first profile will not be 1200, but slightly less, for example, 1140 mm. But from it to the next - already 1200. Here is our markup:

Marking the main frame profiles

And to better understand the structure of the frame profiles, take a look at this picture:

Ceiling frame diagram

Stage 3. Mounting hangers

It is clear that the suspensions will be located on the lines of the main profiles. But they still need to be properly labeled. Look, the KNAUF diagram tells us that the maximum suspension pitch with a load of up to 15 kg per m2 (and we have just such a case) is 1000 mm. We recommend placing the first suspension at a distance of 25 cm from the wall, and the second - 125 cm, despite the fact that Knauf allows the first suspension to be placed at a distance of 100 cm, so it will be more reliable.

Direct hangers

According to the technology, suspensions are attached to the ceiling ONLY on anchor wedges

Suspensions are attached to the ceiling exclusively with metal driven wedge anchors, no dowels! For each suspension - 2 anchors. Since the quality of our concrete slabs and, moreover, of the anchors is low, each fastening must be checked. Yes, yes, take the pliers, bend the ends of the suspension with them and pull down with all your might. Quite often it happens that the anchor pulls out of the concrete, you have to re-drill. On the other hand, imagine that he will come out after sheathing, this will be a fatality. So do not be lazy and check everything at once. By the way, suspensions, like guide profiles, are attached through a sealing tape. This will enhance the soundproofing properties of the skin.

Stage 4. Fastening the main frame profiles

The main profiles are cut 10 mm shorter than the length of the room. This is very important, because, again, it allows the frame to “walk” relatively freely with temperature fluctuations. If the length of the room is greater than the length of the profile, and this is usually the case, we use special extension cords, but keep in mind that the total length of the profiles should still be less than the size of the room. In this case, the junctions of adjacent profiles should not be located on the same line.

The quality of self-tapping screws when mounting the frame is very important

The most difficult thing in installing a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands is to set the ceiling profiles strictly on the same level. More precisely, it is not difficult to set it, it is difficult to screw a self-tapping screw in weight so that this level does not go astray. With a laser, of course, it will be most convenient here: a magnetic target, a beam and all that. If there is no such device, you will have to go out with a cord or a rule, going from the edges to the middle. Alone, alas, you can’t do this. A lot will depend on the quality of the screws. We unanimously consider self-tapping screws of the same company HILTI (S-DD03Z 4.2X13 mm) as reference in this nomination. They, of course, cost money, about a ruble a piece, but take my word for it, if you come across worthless self-tapping screws, you will curse everything and will be ready to give any money for quality screws. And these critters can easily drill through 3mm thick steel, can you imagine? And this is verified by personal experience!

So, it is advisable to use two screws on each side of the suspension, because. with one he can backlash:

Installation of the main frame profiles

The edges of the suspensions after fastening are either bent up or cut off. Once you have finished screwing all the main profiles, take the rule again and check the plane, it should be almost perfect. If the rule jumps somewhere, or you see a gap, do not be lazy and twist it. Yes, we understand that you are tired, but the price of laziness can be high here.

Stage 5. Installation of CRABs and supporting profiles. mineral wool

It is very easy to stick a CRAB into the ceiling profile, they snap into place stupidly. You don’t need to screw them to the profiles either, they won’t go anywhere as long as gravity is directed downwards. In general, we insert them in increments of 50 cm and additionally at a distance of 10 cm from the walls, perpendicular to the profiles, this was clearly visible on the Knauf diagram:

CRABs on the main profiles

Now we cut segments of the bearing profiles. As in the case of the main ones, they should be slightly shorter than the distance between the latter, that is, they should not burst them. We insert their ends into CRABs and fasten them with self-tapping screws with a press washer, for each supporting profile - 4 self-tapping screws. Here's what happens:

Support profiles

This is what our frame will look like

When our frame is ready, we can lay mineral wool in it. The main thing is to do it tightly and without gaps, the cotton should fill the frame well, but should not hang below it, so as not to interfere with the drywall sheets.

ISOVER in action

Stage 6. Sheathing the frame with drywall

Before sewing the sheets onto the frame, they need to be allowed to lie in the room for at least two days so that it “gets used” to the temperature and humidity of the room. It's like laminate flooring. At the first sheet, we cut off the factory edge on one side and, on the resulting edge, we additionally chamfer with a knife or planer at an angle of 22.5 degrees (approximately, of course) to a depth of 2/3 of the sheet thickness. This is done for the convenience of subsequent puttying. When marking the sheet, it is also important to take into account that the corners in the room do not have to be equal to 90 degrees, which can cause problems - the sheets will start to leave the profiles. Therefore, measure each corner with a square and cut its edges to fit the shape of the room. It is not as difficult as it seems at first glance.

In principle, it is not necessary to chamfer the sheets BEFORE their installation, it is possible after, as it is more convenient for anyone. It is more convenient for us to remove it after.

The pitch of the self-tapping screws should be no more than 17 cm, the heads must be slightly recessed into the cardboard (by 0.5-1 mm), but not break through it. We recommend using a special nozzle-limiter for a screwdriver. Sheets are always installed staggered, at least one step of the supporting profiles:

Installation of drywall sheets

Finished skin

On the factory edges of the sheet, the screws are installed at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the sheet, and at the cut edges - at least 15 mm. Make sure that they penetrate the sheets at a right angle, and not obliquely. If a bad screw came across somewhere, or we screwed it in by mistake - we throw it away and screw in a new one with an indent from the old hole of at least 5 cm. Docking of the end edges of the sheets is only allowed on the supporting profiles, they should in no case hang in the air !

Another important point. If there is an external corner in the room, it is NEVER possible to join sheets on it. It threatens to crack. It is much more competent to cut a sheet in the shape of the letter “L” and “wrap” the corner with it, as here:

Drywall on the corner

As for the consumption of materials, Knauf has carefully provided us with the following list:

Consumption of materials

For even greater clarity, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the official video instruction from Knauf:

Stage 7. Sealing joints GKL

This topic has generated a lot of controversy. Different manufacturers recommend different materials and methods of embedding, craftsmen experiment all the time ... In general, nothing is clear, there is no clear instruction. We can only speak for ourselves. For high-quality sealing of joints, we use only KNAUF Kurt paper reinforcing tape and Danogips Superfinish ready-made putty. Yes, this is far from the only option, because there are products such as weber.vetonit JS or KNAUF Uniflott. We just got used to Superfinish and it didn't let us down. Americans, for example, and Canadians use polymer putties and paper tapes. The Germans, for some reason, tend to gypsum. In general, we will tell you exactly how our drywall workers work.

Don't skimp on primer. Everything that is cheaper than 600 rubles for 10 liters does not suit us

The end edges of the sheets are necessarily treated with a deep penetration primer and left for a day so that the soil has time to completely polymerize. Then we fill them with any gypsum putty, usually KNAUF Fugen, because. it is quite cheap and durable. We do not prime the factory edges, but simply dedust them if necessary, here priming will do more harm than good. In the factory joints, reinforcing tape can be laid immediately (if we are talking about Gyproc drywall). They hammered the joint with Superfinish, laid the tape into it, squeezed out the excess putty from it, then applied it on top. After drying, applied again to close possible pits and pores. The joint is ready for grinding. As for the cut edges, you need to wait until the Fugen is completely dry in them, then apply a thin layer of Danogips Superfinigh, lay the tape in it and then repeat the steps as for the factory edges.

We close up the joints

We grind them

High-quality preparation of such a ceiling for painting consists of several stages. Puttyed seams and holes from self-tapping screws are necessarily polished, thus we get a single even, but so far inhomogeneous plane. Before applying the finishing polymer putty to the entire ceiling, it must be primed with a deep penetration primer (not a film-forming primer!), In order to partially equalize the absorbency of the cardboard and putty at the joints. Before painting, the puttied surface is primed again with GGP (and we even prime it twice) and becomes even more homogeneous.

If, after processing the joints, you start puttying immediately, there is a big risk that after painting, due to the different absorbency, the joints of the sheets will appear. We've already skewed like that, so we know what we're talking about, boys.

It can be seen that the paint at the joints dries more slowly

That's all, the plasterboard ceiling is ready, its puttying and painting is a completely different topic, which we will discuss in the next lessons. If this material was useful to you, like and subscribe to new materials. If you have any questions, feel free to ask them in the comments, we will try to answer everyone. See you soon!

In contact with

The advent of drywall has revolutionized construction. significantly reduced the time for repair and finishing work. It became possible to reliably hide the defects of the old ceiling and hide any communications (ventilation, pipes, wiring).

• Suspension straight U-shaped
• Cross connector for profile or crab
• Straight connector for ceiling profile

To connect profiles with suspensions and connectors, galvanized self-tapping screws with a drill 12 mm long (seeds) are used. Dowels 6 x 40 mm are used to fasten the frame to walls and floor slabs.

For sheathing a metal frame, gypsum boards for the ceiling are used (GKL). They have the following dimensions:

• Length 2500 mm
• Width 1200 mm
• Thickness 8-9.5mm

The color of the ceiling gypsum boards is grey. The ceiling and plasterboard walls cannot be sheathed with the same materials. Plates with a thickness of 12.5 mm are used only for wall decoration.

It's important to know! If your room is located in a climate zone with high humidity, then in this case it is recommended to use moisture-resistant drywall. Its cardboard cover has a greenish color.

How to correctly calculate the materials for a false ceiling made of plasterboard

To calculate the guide profile UD-27, it is necessary to divide the perimeter of the room. Measure the length of each wall with a tape measure, and add the numbers - this will be the required number of guide profile.

Note! Every wall must be measured. The room may have an irregular geometric shape as a result of poor-quality construction or decoration.

Or the supporting profile can be calculated as follows: the first and last at a distance of 300 mm from the wall, the distance between the remaining profiles is 600 mm or less. The rest of the supporting profiles are fixed to the ceiling with an interval of 600 mm. The number of CD-60 profiles is equal to the number of their rows multiplied by the length of the room.

To the ceiling, the carrier profile is mounted using U-shaped straight hangers. They are attached to the ceiling along the axis of the profile in increments of 1 m. To find out their number, it is necessary to divide the total length of the CD-60 profile by 1 m.

To ensure the rigidity of the frame, jumpers from the CD-60 profile are installed between the supporting profiles and the UD-27 guide profiles. Do this in increments of 600 mm.

The number of cross connectors for lintels is equal to the total length of the carrier profile divided by the fastening step or 0.6 m. Straight connectors are used to connect CD-60 and UD-27 profiles along the length. Their number is calculated based on the length of the room.

Example: if the length of the room is 5 m, the rows of the ceiling profile are 6, then there should be 6 connections, respectively.

The number of ceiling gypsum boards is equal to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling. However, a certain margin is needed to compensate for the consumption of material when trimming to size. Drywall is fixed to the frame with black self-tapping screws 25-45 mm long.

It's important to know! When buying drywall, add 3-5% to the ceiling area obtained in the calculations. This compensates for the technological costs of drywall.

What tools to use for installation

The following set of tools is required for the installation of a false ceiling made of gypsum plasterboard and its subsequent finishing:

• Laser or water level
• Chopping dyeing thread
• Rule with a level of 1.5 m
• Electric impact drill or hammer drill
• Drill for concrete with a diameter of 6 mm.
• A set of crowns for wood (if recessed spotlights will be used)
• screwdriver
• Corner construction 90 degrees
• Bulgarian or hacksaw
• Tape measure and pencil
• A hammer
• Metal shears
• Container for mixing putty
• Wide roller for priming the ceiling
• Nozzle for mixing solutions on a drill (whisk)
• Spatula wide and narrow

Marking the future ceiling

The markup is designed to determine the horizontal plane of the future ceiling. It is performed using a laser or water level. Marks are placed along the perimeter on the walls and connected with a chopping paint thread.

The level of the plasterboard ceiling can be lowered arbitrarily. The minimum height is 3 cm (ceiling profile thickness), and if recessed spotlights are used, they are lowered to the height of the lighting device + 1 cm.

Axes of bearing profiles are applied to the ceiling. They put marks for U-shaped suspensions with a step of 1m. A guide profile UD-27 is fastened along the line broken on the walls with dowels. At points on the ceiling, U-shaped suspensions are fastened with dowels. The perforated legs of the suspension are lowered down at an angle of 90 degrees.

A ceiling profile is mounted to the suspensions. Two 12 mm self-tapping screws are screwed onto each leg. Cross-shaped connectors are attached to the CD-60 profiles with an interval of 600 mm. Jumpers are mounted to them from the ceiling profile.

Jumpers are also installed between the guide and carrier profile. Fastening is carried out with 12 mm self-tapping screws. Do this using a drill, hammer and screwdriver.

Installation of lighting wiring

The reasons for lighting are placed in a corrugated plastic pipe with a diameter of 15-25 mm and fastened to the shelf with plastic clamps. Loops 25-30 cm long are left in the right places for lamps. This length is optimal for the subsequent connection of lamps.

After assembling the frame, drywall is mounted. Installation starts from any angle with the installation of a whole sheet on the frame. Drywall is fixed with black self-tapping screws 25-45 mm long. When fastening, you can focus on the "X" marks applied to the GKL sheet by the manufacturer.

The technology of plasterboard ceilings requires the installation of gypsum plasterboard sheets with an offset like brickwork. The sheet offset must be at least one profile.

The first step is to install entire sheets. The remaining windows are sewn up with cut pieces. Holes for spotlights are drilled with a crown on a tree and loops of lighting wires are brought out into them.

All joints are covered with reinforcing mesh. On the one hand, it has an adhesive surface. After that, all joints are puttied with a special putty for joints.

If you use ordinary gypsum putty, then there is a risk of cracks at the junction.

When the putty has dried, putty is applied to the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling. After it dries, it is grouted and polished with an abrasive mesh and sandpaper. After that, paint or wallpaper can be applied to the ceiling. The video below: a plasterboard ceiling will help you more clearly familiarize yourself with the process.

A design such as a plasterboard ceiling is an ideal solution for arranging any type of room. This material is extremely popular in construction and repair work. GKL ceiling has a lot of advantages over other types of finishes. First of all, it is an opportunity to hide the curvature and other defects of the floor slab.

Ceiling drywall is an environmentally friendly material that is completely harmless to humans. The finished surface is perfectly flat, without the slightest hint of sagging or height differences. The gap between the drywall and the carrier board can accommodate electrical wires, telecommunications cables and a ventilation system.

With proper processing, plasterboard ceilings can not only be painted and wallpapered, but also finished with ceramic tiles and mirror panels. Let's look at how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, without involving hired labor?

During construction and repair, any type of plasterboard can be used for the ceiling. However, it is advisable to dwell on the ceiling version. Drywall for the ceiling has a smaller thickness (9 mm), which makes the sheets lighter and easier to work with. The decision on which drywall is best for the ceiling should be made only after assessing the conditions in which the suspended structure will be operated.

Varieties and application of GKL for the ceiling

When finishing various rooms, you can sheathe the ceiling with plasterboard of the following types:

1. ordinary. This material is used for facing office, residential and service premises, where a constant temperature and humidity are maintained. The outer coating of such products has a gray color and blue markings. Such a sheet has a small weight, which saves on material for the frame and reduces the load on the floor slab. Standard ceiling drywall is available in the form of slabs 120 cm wide, 250 and 300 cm high. Ordinary gypsum board bends well when wetted and retains its shape after drying. The figured box and steps made from it look very impressive;
2. moisture resistant. In the manufacture of the filler for this material, silicone and antifungal drugs are used. To resist moisture, the mixture is placed in a special impregnated cardboard. It must be borne in mind that waterproof plates do not absorb moisture at all. Therefore, it will not work to give them a curvilinear shape. Install waterproof plates in rooms with a high level of humidity or in apartments where there is a high risk of flooding from the upper floors. The outer surface of this finishing material has a green color;
3. fire resistant. Fire resistance is achieved by adding special reinforcing additives to the material and impregnating it with antipyrine. A suspended ceiling is made of fire-resistant material in rooms where there should be an increased level of fire safety. These can be cash desks, archives, shield and bank vaults. Manufacturers paint refractory sheets pink or gray with red markings.

Having considered drywall models that can be used in work, it is worth dwelling on how a drywall ceiling is made. This is a fairly simple job that even a beginner can do, it is important to look at the manual for working with the material.

Tools and materials

The manufacture of a suspended structure from drywall sheets is an event that does not require the use of professional equipment.

To install the GKL on the ceiling, you will need the following tools:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• metal scissors;
• building level;
• a hammer;
• roulette;
• plane;
• square;
• marker;
• wide and narrow steel spatula;
• mixer for mixing the solution;
• set of drills and crowns.

In order to protect the respiratory organs and eyes from dust, it is necessary to purchase a respirator and goggles. Since the work will be carried out at a height, stable goats or a stepladder will be needed.

To find out the required amount of material, we advise you to use our

The calculation of building materials is carried out on the basis of the prepared project. It indicates the type of construction (single-level, multi-level), frame schemes, electrical wiring, the location of drywall sheets and insulation, the location and type of lamps, sensors and other devices.

To make plasterboard ceilings with your own hands, you will need the following materials and fixtures:

1. starting and finishing putty;
2. mounting plastic tape;
3. self-tapping screws for metal;
4. breaker cord;
5. sandpaper;
6. abrasive mesh;
7. liquid primer;
8. drywall sheets.

Before making a ceiling of plasterboard plates, they must be allowed to lie down for several days in the room. This is necessary in order for the material to acquire humidity and temperature corresponding to the working conditions.

Preparatory activities

Despite the fact that the GKL completely cover the floor slab, it is necessary to take measures for its preventive repair and conservation. If this is not done, then the appearance of leaks, the development of fungus and mold is quite possible. Underestimating the preparation of the base plate for installation can lead to the most unpleasant consequences, such as settling the space between the ceilings with rodents and insects.

Before you start making plasterboard ceilings, you must perform the following activities:

1. if your house is being repaired, then check the condition of the roof and rafters. If necessary, carry out roof restoration;
2. remove from the room all interior items that may be damaged during the repair process. Cover the rest of the things with a plastic protective film;
3. remove all communications, sensors and lighting devices from the carrier plate. Assess the condition of the wiring. If necessary, replace it;
4. remove the dilapidated finish and fragments of the floor slab that are not firmly attached to it. Clean cracks and holes;
5. repair all existing defects in the carrier plate with cement mortar or synthetic sealant. Treat its surface with an antiseptic and a deep penetration primer.

Immediately after the primer dries, further work can begin. In the course of their implementation, it is necessary to strictly carry out all the stages of activity in a certain sequence. Step-by-step instructions for each phase of work will help to make repairs efficiently and quickly.

Building a frame for drywall

The most practical and reliable option for creating a frame is to use a steel profile. The profile is completed with extension cords and connectors of various configurations and purposes. This allows you to assemble both flat and complex suspended structures on the ceiling.

We make a frame from a galvanized steel profile in the following sequence:

1. the height of the walls is measured in all corners of the room. In the lowest corner, a mark is made 10 cm from the floor slab. From this mark, a horizontal line is drawn along all walls. Lines parallel to the wall are drawn on the carrier plate with an interval of 60 cm;
2. holes are drilled along the drawn line in increments of 30-40 cm. After the plastic dowels are inserted into them, the UD profile guides are screwed to the wall;
3. vertical hangers are fixed on the ceiling plate. The fastening step should be within 60-80 cm;
4. blanks of the supporting CD profile are sawn. Their length should be 35-40 mm shorter than the distance between the edges of the carrier profile;
5. the supporting profile is inserted into the openings of the guide profile. One of its ends is rigidly fixed with a self-tapping screw. The carrier profile is fixed in hangers. After fixing with self-tapping screws, the edges of the suspension are bent up or broken off. A self-tapping screw is screwed on the other end of the carrier profile;
6. sawn and fixed transverse parts. For their fastening, a cross connector (crab) is used. The result of the work is a steel grating with cells 50x60 cm.

After checking the frame for strength, electrical wiring and communication lines are laid. Electrical wires must be laid in a plastic PVC tube, rigidly fixed to the floor slab.

Sheathing the frame with drywall

To fix the plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, you will need an assistant, since the sheets are quite large in size and weight. Work begins with the installation of a whole plate in one of the corners. GKL installation is carried out in rows. Each subsequent row is fastened with an offset of 100 cm or 120 cm, depending on the choice of fastening direction. The last row is cut so that the cut edge is facing the wall.

When carrying out the sheathing of the frame with drywall, it is necessary to adhere to the following rules:

1. joints of drywall sheets should be located only on the frame, otherwise sagging and cracks are inevitable;
2. self-tapping screws must be screwed into the frame through the sheets over its entire area. The fixation interval should be 15 cm. At the same time, it is necessary to control the screwing process so that the screws do not break through the cardboard shell of the plate;
3. a 2 mm gap must be left between the masonry fragments. It is necessary for the thermal expansion of the material;
4. cutting drywall is best with a sharp clerical knife. An incision is made on the front side of the plate. After that, she moves to the edge of the table, where the excess is broken and cut off. Ragged edges are smoothed out with a planer.

After the GKL is attached to the frame, the quality of the work performed is checked. The protruding screws are tightened, next to the self-tapping screws that have broken through the cardboard, new hardware is screwed in.

Putty plasterboard ceiling

By itself, drywall cannot be the basis for finishing. Its surface and structure are too fragile for such a purpose. After fixing the plates, there are many seams and recesses left by the screw heads.

The technology of applying putty between sheets of plasterboard

We putty drywall in the following sequence:

1. the GKL surface is cleaned of dust and small parts of gypsum. The identified defects are eliminated. The seams are treated with a primer;
2. plaster solution is mixed. It is pressed with force into the joints and holes from the screws. A sickle tape is applied over the joints and embedded in the solution. It will prevent the appearance of cracks;
3. the leveled surface is treated twice with a deep penetration primer. This is necessary in order to strengthen not only the outer shell of the GKL, but also its filler;
4. drywall is covered with a solution of starting putty. The solution is drawn from the container with a narrow spatula and applied to a wide tool, with which the putty is applied to the surface with wide sweeping movements. All protrusions are immediately smoothed out;
5. the primer of the frozen starting putty is carried out. After the soil has dried, a finishing putty solution is applied, which removes all irregularities;
6. the surface is processed with an abrasive mesh and sandpaper. The quality of grinding and polishing is determined by the type of finish. Before painting, the surface must be leveled with jewelry accuracy;
7. the ceiling is cleaned of dust and covered with a primer. After that, it is ready for applying the finishing cladding, which can be used as paint, wallpaper or tile;
8. connection and fixing of lighting fixtures, fans and various sensors is carried out. The joints between the drywall and the wall are covered with skirting boards. If a wide plinth is glued to the wall 5 cm from the false ceiling, then it will serve as a good basis for attaching the backlight in the form of an LED strip.

How to make a plasterboard ceiling on your own, it is known that it is important to consistently complete all stages of work.

Photo gallery of finished plasterboard ceilings