How to fix suspensions for a profile: ceiling, wall, siding. Tips for attaching a ceiling profile How to attach a direct suspension to a concrete ceiling

Within the framework of the article, we will consider the methods of fastening for suspended ceilings of three popular designs: plasterboard; from PVC wall panels and rack. We are interested in both the structures of these types of suspended ceilings and the methods of their reliable fixation to the ceiling.

Drywall

Before us is one of the most common solutions in our time.

There are many reasons for this:

• Both drywall and profiles for it are relatively affordable.
• The material allows you to create ceilings arbitrarily complex shape, including curved surfaces.
• Drywall compares favorably with polymers in that it is not afraid of heating up to quite high temperatures. The same PVC panels, say, it is better not to heat up to more than 80C. Dignity seems far-fetched to you? Think about the popularity of recessed lamps with halogens and incandescent lamps.

Attention: in fairness, the use of strong heat sources with drywall is also undesirable. It can lead to cracks at the seams between sheets due to uneven expansion.

• Finally, the use of drywall forgives oversights with the material pattern: a wide seam or an unevenly cut corner of the sheet is easy to putty.

Mounting diagram

So what is the design false ceiling drywall sheet?

• To assemble the frame, first of all, two types of profile are needed - the so-called UD and CD - and suspensions. In some cases, the design, however, can do without suspensions.
• A horizontal line is marked along the perimeter of the room at the height of the ceiling, along which the UD profile is mounted. Mounting step - 40-60 centimeters.
• The CD profile can be mounted in two ways. Either a square crate is created over the entire ceiling area with a step of 60 centimeters, or along the length of the sheets with a step of now 40 centimeters, the profile is mounted in one direction.

• A plasterboard sheet is hemmed from below to the profiles fixed in level with self-tapping screws. Then the seams between the sheets are reinforced with a reinforcing mesh tape or bandaged with paper; all irregularities and caps of self-tapping screws are puttied at least twice, and drywall is primed before painting or wallpapering.
• Plasterboard suspended ceiling fixture concrete floor performed with ordinary screws 60x4 mm with plastic dowels. Wooden chopsticks should not be used even in dry rooms. The profile is attached to the tree with ordinary self-tapping screws 50-100 millimeters long.
• If you plan to make the structure multi-tiered - the frame of the ceiling levels located below is hemmed exclusively to the profiles upper tier. In no case not to drywall: in this case, the ceiling will inevitably collapse sooner or later.

Useful little things

The design of suspended ceilings based on gypsum board and galvanized profile is quite simple, and no special skills are required for its installation (see Plasterboard structures on the ceiling - design and installation).

However, some points are better to remember.

• It should take about a hundred self-tapping screws to fasten a whole sheet of drywall. in. On straight sections, the step between adjacent ones is 25 cm, on curved sections - 15.
• The edges of adjacent sheets must ALWAYS be fixed to the same profile.. If this is not possible with the longitudinal arrangement of CD profiles, the exit is simple. The first sheet is hemmed; then a profile is hemmed to its edge so that half of its width protrudes beyond the edge; then the next sheet is sewn.
• It is obligatory to reinforce the seams, otherwise cracks are guaranteed for a maximum of two years.

• To obtain a curved surface of a large radius, it is enough to wet a drywall sheet with water and hold for two to three hours. For small radius bends, the sheet is trimmed from the outside.
• A multi-tiered ceiling can also be obtained without mounting the frames of the second tier, simply by hemming one or two sheets of drywall cut from the bottom to the first level, cut according to the template you need. Of course, it is also sewn strictly to the profile.

PVC panels

The next design is a homemade ceiling based on PVC wall panels. The material provides fewer opportunities compared to drywall, but it is very cheap and easy to install.

What will the suspended ceiling mount look like in this case?

Mounting diagrams

stand apart wooden houses. In their case, the easiest way to file the ceiling is to attach it to a wooden crate made of a bar measuring about 30x30 millimeters. Of course, the method is intended exclusively for dry rooms.

If a ceiling beams located high enough, you can not assemble the crate in the space between them, but hem the panels directly to the beams.

Important: the step between the attachment points should not be more than 50, and even 40 centimeters is better. Otherwise, you risk that the panels will sag under their own weight after some time.

Well, what about an ordinary city apartment with its reinforced concrete panels overlap?

Here we have two options:

• In dry rooms with constant temperature and humidity, you can again mount a wooden crate. The bar is hemmed to the ceiling with an interval of 40 centimeters perpendicular to the direction of the panels without any hangers.

Minor height differences can be easily compensated by placing any gasket of the appropriate thickness between the bar and the draft ceiling; the horizon of the crate is easy to check with a level.

Before filing, it is still desirable to treat the bar with an antiseptic and proliferate: then the ceiling is guaranteed not to rot and deform for a long time.

• For rooms with unstable temperature or high humidity best mount for a suspended ceiling made of PVC panels - again a galvanized profile. The basic principles of its installation are the same as in the case of drywall, but there is a difference.

The CD profile is mounted - on suspensions or to the ceiling - only perpendicular to the panels. Step - 40-50 centimeters. In small-width rooms, you can do without suspensions, even with a large distance between the suspended and draft ceilings.

The CD profile is attached to the UD profile around the perimeter of the room. Its rigidity, combined with the low weight of the panels, will not allow the ceiling to sag (see also How to make a ceiling from PVC panels: basic operations and possible problems)

Useful little things

• And in this case, an excellent fastener for a false ceiling in case reinforced concrete floor- screws 60x4 in combination with plastic dowels. If for some reason you are forced to large plot ceiling to a small number of suspensions, it is a good idea to replace them with anchors.


• The ceiling is framed from panels with both a special profile and a regular one. ceiling plinth. In the latter case, where less problems with fastening of the last panel: it can be hemmed with self-tapping screws anywhere, the caps will still be hidden by the plinth.
• The use of panels eliminates the need for a UD profile around the perimeter. It is desirable but not required. The remaining gap between the panels and the wall is again easy to hide with a ceiling baguette.

rack ceiling

Aluminum rails are another popular material, however, they provide their own fastening format. rack ceiling. Factory-made traverses cannot be replaced with either a bar or a drywall profile.

Why are rack flows so good?

After all, they are noticeably more expensive than the two options we considered earlier?

• The material of the rails themselves that form the false ceiling is aluminum. A material that is not afraid of corrosion in high humidity conditions and does not change its physical properties with time.

Fasteners rack ceiling is either again aluminum profiles or galvanized steel construction. The choice of material makes such a ceiling almost eternal: it will exist without any repair for as long as the building costs.

• Flooding from above is also not terrible. The ceiling is easy enough to wipe with a sponge with any detergent.

Please note: in fairness, the latter quality can be fully attributed to the ceiling of PVC panels on a galvanized profile.

Mounting diagram

How to fix a rack ceiling?

The main stages of installation are very similar to the assembly of the previous two structures based on a galvanized profile.

• A guide profile is attached along the perimeter of the wall, which will hide the edges of the panels.
• Traverses are hung strictly horizontally on the suspensions, to which, in fact, the rails are to be attached. The type of suspension depends on the material of the traverses and on the distance to the ceiling. The same suspensions that mount the drywall profile can be used; they are used with galvanized combs.

The aluminum profile is hung on special spring hangers; at a distance from the draft ceiling of more than 7-10 centimeters, extension needles are added. By the way, it is better to bend the free ends of the spokes: this simple operation will not allow the ceiling to fall under any circumstances.

• How to fix a suspended ceiling from rails to traverses? Simply by putting in place and snapping each rail. At the same time, at walls parallel to the rails, you will have to cut them not only in length, but also in width.
• The use of perforated rails will allow you not to display ventilation duct below the ceiling: air will escape into the perforations. However, this solution is not suitable for kitchens with gas stoves. Small perforations will quickly overgrow with soot.
• Slatted ceilings fit perfectly in bathrooms, toilets, kitchens, corridors and hallways, but for a bedroom or living room this is not the best solution. Just in terms of looks.

Useful little things

You can read more in the article Aluminum suspended ceilings - types, scope, installation features

Conclusion

We have considered only a few types of structures from the whole variety of suspended ceilings. However, they are the most typical in terms of attachment. It seems that you will not have problems with other types of ceilings. Good luck with the repair!

potolokspec.ru

Features of installing a false ceiling in small rooms.

Nomit on suspensions and fasten the frame only to the walls. In order for the ceiling not to have to be redone, you need to draw up a layout for the profiles. To do this, on a piece of paper.
profiles and suspensions. One of the most common mistakes when installing a ceiling is insufficient preparation of the ceiling surface for installation. Before proceeding.
#1072; plastering and, if necessary, re-plastering the ceiling surface.

We begin the installation of the ceiling by fixing the main profile along the perimeter of the wall. We mark the walls with a colored thread. Further, the markings also need to be applied to the ceiling, be sure to mark the location of the suspensions. Then we take the profile, apply it to the wall at the mark. We insert a 6mm drill into the puncher and make holes through the profile and hammer in the dowel - nails ( quick installation) 60x40. We make holes no more than 500 mm.

If the walls are curved, then the profile needs to be cut a little in several places so that it is tightly pressed against the wall. If the walls are already finished with drywall, then you need to take dowel-nails of a larger diameter, for example, 80x60, in order to fix the profile directly to the wall.

Photo of fastening the ceiling profile of a false ceiling.

Now we take the ceiling profile and fasten it end-to-end to the guide profile, fixed along the perimeter, in increments of at least 400 mm. In order for the frame to hold firmly, it is attached to the ceiling with suspensions in the form of the letter P.

The scheme of fastening metal profiles to each other and suspensions.

It is worth dwelling in more detail on the choice of suspensions. If there is no beam on the ceiling and the frame can be placed at a height of 120mm from the ceiling, then the use of a direct U-shaped suspension is recommended. If there is a beam or equipment on the ceiling, and the distance between the profile and the ceiling should be more than 120mm, then you need to choose a string suspension or clip-on hanger.

Photo of a string suspension for fastening a false ceiling frame.

If the room is small, for example, a bathroom, then drywall can be mounted directly to the frame without transverse ceiling profiles. But if the room is large, then it is necessary to strengthen the frame with transverse jumpers, which are attached to the profile with special connectors - “crabs”.

Photo connector - "crab".

In order to strengthen the frame, we cut out the transverse jumpers and fasten them with the help of connectors in the form of a “crab”. Cut metallic profile It is most convenient with the help of scissors for metal.

Photo of cutting a profile with scissors for metal.

When the frame is mounted to the ceiling, you can proceed to fixing the drywall sheets. For this, we use 9.6x16mm self-tapping screws. The sheets must be fixed at a distance of at least 150 mm from each other.

www.do-it-yourself-ceiling.rf

Design features of the system

Understanding what a suspended ceiling device is will allow you to plan an algorithm of work, choose the right materials and components.

Suspended structure can be presented in two versions:

• in a base with a sheet finish that requires finishing;
• on the basis of formed sets that do not need final cladding.

As for the device, it is traditionally:

• frame made of wood or metal profiles;
• heat or sound insulating material;
• finishing.

The latter is implemented in several versions and can be:

• from drywall;
• from PVC panels;
• from finished aluminum cassettes;
• glass, etc.

Regardless of the options for finishing plates, the design allows you to hide defects rough coating, disguise communications and pipes.

Requirements for the room for the installation of the suspension system

The obvious advantages in favor of choosing a false ceiling speak for themselves, but before proceeding with the installation, you need to make sure that the room meets the main requirement for the operation of such systems. It is important that the height of the walls in it is not less than 2.3 meters. Small exceptions are possible, but only if design techniques are used with visual extension space through the use of a glossy surface, correctly placed fixtures.

Average panel ceiling installation hanging type will require about 10 cm of free distance between the panels and the base and up to 5 cm more for mounting panels for lighting.

Drywall construction - how to assemble

A plasterboard suspended ceiling is perhaps the most common option for residential buildings and apartments, regardless of the purpose of the premises. Moisture resistant and mechanical damage, designs are successfully used not only in living rooms and bedrooms, but also in hallways, kitchens and even bathrooms.

Installing GKL-based systems is not difficult, but you need to take into account the laboriousness of the process due to the tangible weight of the material, attaching an assistant to the work.

At the base of the ceiling can be wooden crate, as well as a more practical and durable metal frame based on profiles that are resistant to moisture and temperature changes.

Classic mounting technology plasterboard ceiling will require minimum set tools. Usually it will be possible to get by with a level, a screwdriver, a spatula, a tape measure, a knife, a planer and a special crown for making large holes. All these tools can be found in the house of every master.

As for the materials, these are several types of profiles necessary for the device of the frame (bearing and transverse), suspensions, corner profile, lintels and plasterboard finishing sheets.

The algorithm for carrying out the work is simple. To begin with, they carry out communications, ventilation, electrical wiring based on the placement electrical appliances, after which, in case of emergency, they restore (clean and prime) the old coating, preventing the destruction of the plaster layer.

After completing the preparation work, they proceed to the main stage - the installation of the frame. Here it is important to follow the basic rules:

1. Frame and communication elements should not contact.
2. Bearing profiles are mounted in increments of 120 cm.
3. The transverse profiles are fixed in increments of 30 cm.

Start the process with markup. To do this, use the level and the usual twine. The indent from the window should be at least 20 cm - such a distance will be needed in the future for the installation of the eaves.

The next step is to assemble the crate. Profiles are attached to the surface of the walls with dowels or screws, if we are talking about natural wood. Loops are screwed in the attachment points for mounting the supporting profiles. On the latter, connecting fasteners for transverse profiles are installed (distance 30 cm).

Further work will depend on the complexity of the design. Will it be single-level or multilevel ceiling. In the second case, the frame of each new level is fixed on the previous one.

The finished frame is trimmed drywall sheets, starting from the central part, using fasteners along the long side of the sheet in increments of 20 cm and along the short side - 30 cm. The extreme plasterboards are mounted with a gap from the wall of no more than 4 mm.

Finishing part - finishing of a surface. This can be painting or wallpapering with the installation of lighting equipment.

In rooms with high level humidity additionally use a waterproof sealant to protect the seams.

Armstrong ceiling systems - installation features

The ease of use of Armstrong systems has taken them to a new level. Ceilings are in great demand, both for the design of commercial premises and private ones. The structures are durable, not demanding in maintenance, and most importantly, they are simply and quickly mounted on their own.

The installation process begins with a symbolic cleaning of the old coating from peeling layers of paint and whitewash. This must be done so that communications in the inter-ceiling zone can be fixed as reliably as possible.

The next step is to calculate the weight of the structure. It must be understood that it should not exceed 6 kg / m2, otherwise overload on the corner profile cannot be avoided. A precautionary measure in this case may be the indentation of the extreme suspension from the wall in the case of a ceiling mass of up to 4 kg / m2 - by 60 cm, more than 4 kg / m2 - by 45 cm. That is, the heavier the structure, the closer the extreme suspension should be located to Wall.

The frame is constructed according to the same principle as in the case of a plasterboard ceiling, always with a height of at least 12 cm to maintain the possibility of access to engineering communications in the interceiling space. Ventilation systems, hoods, fixtures are attached to the main ceiling, with the exception of Armstrong fixtures, mounted directly into the ceiling canvas instead of some of the plates.

In case of use additional materials for heat and sound insulation, the number of suspensions is increased.

Plastic suspended ceilings - installation nuances

The main competitor of the plasterboard false ceiling is plastic - no less practical, affordable, presented in different colors and shades. Self mount suspended ceiling based on PVC panels will not require finishing, will take a little time, subject to the algorithm of work.

They begin in the same way as in previous cases with the cleaning and restoration of the main ceiling, where electrical wiring and other communications will be fixed.

At this stage, it must be taken into account that PVC panels not all types of lamps can be combined due to the risk of deformation of the latter.

For the device of the crate, a profile designed for the installation of GKL is suitable. It is most resistant to moisture and temperature fluctuations. They fasten it strictly along the perimeter of the room, along a predetermined line (marking starts in the lowest corner of the room).

To strengthen the ceiling, ceiling profiles are used on direct suspensions (the distance between them is 30 cm). Also, a decorative corner is fixed along the perimeter, or a U-shaped profile to mask the cut edges of PVC panels. For the same purposes, a special plastic cornice, simply fixed with liquid nails.

The first rail is mounted with a comb in the direction of the wall, fastened with metal plates. Holes are additionally prepared for lamps and wiring.

Common errors in the installation of suspended structures

Despite the instructions that indicate how the ceiling is attached, included in the manufacturer's kit, errors that occur during the process are inevitable. Understanding this fact, and most importantly, studying the list of the most frequent mistakes, will improve the quality of work.

One of the main mistakes is carrying out work in ordinary clothes. This is not recommended. A competent approach to business using overalls is necessary for a successful outcome.

Cut ceiling panels near the wall you need to be especially careful using an electric tool.

Another mistake is incorrectly opened boxes with rails. It is important to cut the packaging middle line along the edges, thus preventing damage to the protective film and the edges of the rails.

The installation of a false ceiling is allowed to be carried out at the final stage after the completion of all construction and finishing works. In this case, all communications are laid before the start of work on the frame device.

A common mistake is to install systems with a minimum distance from the main floor to the finishing layer. In fact, it must be at least 10 cm, otherwise the strength of the frame will be in question, not to mention the possibility of hiding communications.

To prevent a decline bearing capacity structures under the influence of the weight of the plates, it is important to install an additional suspension at the junction of the bearing bars. Not less than important point- alignment of the frame with panels. Care must be taken to maintain the squareness of the structure.

It is also considered a mistake to use a grinder to trim the molding. It is correct to do this with metal scissors, unable to damage the paintwork.

And the last nuance is lighting equipment. Mounting massive fixtures on a false ceiling without an appropriate support is a gross violation of safety regulations. It is necessary to remember the norms - the distribution load per m2 of the ceiling is up to 250 g. It is more expedient to mount the luminaires on carrier rails, and air conditioning devices - on additional suspensions.

When installing lightweight suspended structures use dowel-nails - ready-made fasteners. They are easily and quickly attached to the wall, and shelves, paintings, mirrors, lamps, etc. are hung on them. They are widely used in repair and finishing work, for example, when installing the GKL frame.

A dowel-nail consists of two elements: a dowel that is inserted into a hole in the wall, and a nail that is driven or screwed into the dowel when there is a thread on the rod. The cap has a slot, usually for a Phillips screwdriver. Polypropylene dowels are suitable for installation in heated rooms, nylon dowels are able to withstand sub-zero temperatures so they can even be used outdoors.

You can use a dowel-nail for concrete, brick and foam concrete, it all depends on the design of the dowel. According to this principle, the following types are distinguished.

• Spacers- are fixed due to the expansion of the sleeve in the hole, its relief surface limits the movement of the dowel.
• Universal- fastened in the hole due to the knot that is formed during twisting.

When buying dowel-nails, pay attention to their the size. The diameter can be from 5 to 8 mm - the larger it is, the heavier objects the fasteners can withstand. The most common dowel nails for fastening profile frame plasterboard in concrete size 6x40.

The length of the nail can be from 40 to 120 mm - the longer it is, the more securely it will hold the suspended structure. Also consider number of fasteners in the package and make a choice based on the upcoming scope of work. If you need to put one shelf and several paintings, a package of 6 to 10 pieces will suffice. When you need to fasten a lot of items, it is better to take products with a margin, for example, 100 - 150 pieces.

Dowel-nail for plasterboard

When using drywall, you should choose the right fasteners. Not only the strength of the created structure depends on this factor, but also the appearance, the service life of the structure, its specifications- Is it possible to weight this design with various objects. For mounting the GKL frame. The type and number of selected dowels-nails depends on the type of frame, the selected profiles, they differ in the thickness of the material from which they are made, the material of the walls and ceiling. (Foam concrete, shell rock, concrete, brick, etc.)

For mounting metal frame not only self-tapping screws are purchased, but also dowel-nails. These fasteners create the strength of the entire frame for drywall. To use these fasteners, you should familiarize yourself with their characteristics. Improper use may adversely affect the metal frame.

Dowel-nail classification

In order to purchase a dowel-nails, factors should be considered:

1. Estimated load on fastener, to the surface itself.
2. The base into which the dowel-nail will be attached is concrete, brick.
3. Surface - ceiling, wall.

The fastener is heterogeneous and is available in various sizes and structures.

Mounting differences

Depending on the structural structure, the dowel with nails should be worked with various tools.

Manual fixation of the dowel-nail - in this case, 2 types of dowel-nails with different structures are used. Nails without thread are driven in with an ordinary hammer. Threaded - you will need a screwdriver to screw in or a screwdriver.

Fixing the building- . For this type of installation, dowel-nails with a metal sleeve are applicable. They are made for more weight.

Dowel-nail sizes

The fastener is made various sizes. Depending on the purpose, you should purchase a dowel-nail of the required size. Fasteners are marked with two numbers: the first shows the diameter, the second - the length of the fastener.

Technical indicators of the dowel-nail

According to the indicators of GOST 28457-90, dowel-nails are produced. They are processed - hardness 53-56HRC. But they may have a deviation of 51/5HRC.

1. The rod can be bent according to the factory settings: at a length of 50mm. – 0.1mm curvature; length over 50mm. – 0.15mm.
2. The nail should not have rolls or cracks. The nail must be sharp if the dullness is 0.8 mm. - it is considered unsuitable.
3. On the tip of a nail, versatility is possible.
4. There may be a washer on the nail. Its shift requires a force of 0.3kN.

Dowel nails are produced with an anti-corrosion zinc layer. It should be no less than 6 microns.

What is a dowel-wedge metal

This fastener is called the metal wedge anchor. It is made from metal. The word "anchor" is translated as "anchor".

The metal dowel for drywall has a different mounting technology. The movable part of the fastener is driven in with a hammer, due to which the dowel is wedged in the surface.

According to GOST, 2 types of metal dowels for drywall are produced: 6/40 and 6/60, where 6 is the diameter in mm., 40 (60) is the length in mm. Anchor-wedge comes on sale in packs - 100, 200 pcs.

How to hammer a metal dowel wedge quickly with a puncher, watch the video.

Features of the wedge anchor

The wedge anchor is made of galvanized steel or stainless steel. Carbon steel is used, coated with white zinc or yellow color. The head of the anchor has a manufacturer's mark indicating the density of the metal used.

Basically, these metal wedge fasteners are made for fastening profiles or suspensions to the base and are the recommended fastening.

The wedge anchor is made in the form of a metal rod. There is a locking cap on one end, and a wedge-shaped spacer end cap on the other. When mounting, an anchor is placed in the hole made and its moving part is hammered with a hammer. In this case, the wedges diverge into different sides, thereby fixing the fastener in the ceiling. Anchor-wedge differs in special reliability of fastening to the basis.

Factors affecting the strength of the structure

In order for the anchor wedge to have a long shelf life and also retain strength, there are some factors that affect these indicators:

1. Anchor wedge is driven into the base, which does not have voids. Thus, the fastening strength appears.
2. At high humidity concrete base will constantly absorb moisture, which may cause premature corrosion of the metal.
3. If there is constant pressure (movement, vibration) on the base in which the anchor wedge is mounted, the wedge will soon break out.
4. If the movable part, the rod, remains above the surface, this means that the anchor has not fully opened. At the same time, the service life is limited.
5. Fasteners not allowed chemical solutions. They will destroy the fastener.

Comparative table with which you can determine the fastening strength of the anchor wedge:

Separately, it should be noted that fire safety all suspended structures are supposed to be fixed with metal wedge anchors.

Base for dowel nails and anchor wedge

In order for the fastener to have a long service life, you should know what the base should be:

1. Reinforced concrete ceiling - slabs in apartment buildings.
2. Concrete - floor in an apartment or poured concrete in a private house.
3. Solid brick. There are several types of this material: ceramic, silicate, clinker brick. Each material has its own density, the service life of fasteners depends on this. Such material can be encountered in private buildings.
4. Foam concrete blocks. In the absence of a cavity in them, it is required to know the density of the foam block.

Dowel-nails, anchor wedges are not mounted in wooden base, as well as in walls made of foam blocks and other hollow materials. Since the spacer elements will not be fixed in the base, but mainly in the void, which will not give the required strength.

How to properly attach a profile to the wall

Before attaching a metal profile to the wall, you should have a set of tools and materials:

Profile - the guide profile is mostly galvanized. This gives reliability in the created design. The calculation is made using or on their own. The material must be taken with a margin.

Dowel nails for attaching the profile - for solid wall size 6/40. If the basis is wood, then 25mm self-tapping screws are applicable.

Drill with 6mm drill. and a screwdriver. Before use electric tools, it is required to calculate the load on the wiring.

Scissors for cutting metal. In the process of mounting the guide profile, it is sometimes necessary to make an incision on metal product or cutting it off.

Installation of the guide profile

To carry out the installation of the guide profile, a prepared surface with ready markings is required. How to fix the profile to the wall? Installation is carried out in the following algorithm of actions:

1. First of all, the guide profile is applied to the markup (the line can pass as inside, and from the outside - depending on the emerging nuances)
2. Next, on the profile, you need to mark the places for future fasteners. Basically, it is required to retreat from the edge of the profile up to 15 cm. Maximum, the second fastener is located 25 cm. from the first and so on - every 25cm.
3. If there are no holes in the profile, they are made independently. Even if there are data marked places by the factory, according to the masters, one should be made exactly in the middle between the holes for structural strength.
4. The drill diameter should be 6 mm and its length 50 mm. if the drill is longer, you should mark a border on it, this is easy to do with electrical tape or tape.
5. A plastic dowel is inserted into the hole made both in the base and in the profile. It is hammered into place with a hammer. This should be done carefully, as deformation may occur during its installation. Then the plastic part will become unusable.
6. After mounting the first plastic part of the dowel, a threaded nail is mounted with a screwdriver. The deeper the nail goes into constituent part, the more it opens, fixing all fasteners with special antennae.
7. If the profile is longer than required, it is cut with scissors for metal.
8. If you need to finish the profile, then you can use special extensions.
9. On the border of the profiles, retreat 15 cm from each end and fix the guide dowel-nails.

The screwdriver should not be set at high speed, so as not to drive the nail more than it is laid into the plane, while bending the profile.

The guide profile is an integral part of the entire metal structure for drywall, so its fixation must be strong and of high quality.

Or fixing the frame, similar in technology.

Fixing suspensions to the ceiling under drywall

What hangers are attached to drywall construction? Many will answer this question "dowel-nails are used." This is wrong, because the suspension takes on the load of the entire plasterboard ceiling. When hanging gravity, over time, the dowel nail does not withstand and comes out of the surface. The result is sagging and deformation of the suspended ceiling. According to experts, the wedge anchor is the best fastener. How to attach suspensions for a profile? For the strength of the erected structure, the metal wedge anchor, size 6/40, is fixed in the side holes of the suspension. Installation is carried out as follows:

1. According to the intended markings, a hole with a diameter of 6 mm is made on the ceiling, the depth of the hole is 40 mm.
2. This hole is free from dust (you can blow it yourself).
3. A suspension is attached to the holes made.
4. The anchor-wedge is inserted into the suspension eye and the hole until it stops.
5. After that, a protruding rod is driven in with an ordinary hammer. With every blow, he gets tighter and tighter. concrete surface. This suggests that the anchor elements are straightened in different directions, thereby fixing the entire fastener.

Installation of one anchor takes 10 seconds. Such fixation of suspensions is the most durable compared to the use of dowel-nails.

Through what distance to fix suspensions for a profile? The strength of a plasterboard suspended ceiling directly depends on the suspensions. Hangers are mounted on a marked line intended for the ceiling profile. On this line, every 40-60 cm, suspensions are attached with anchor wedges. The distance depends on the suspension material. If the metal is thin, then the distance will be 40 cm, respectively.

It is allowed to use dowels when creating a box on the ceiling. This design does not weigh down the dowel-nail due to the low weight of the drywall box.

Video how to properly attach the suspension

Mounting Features

When mounting the dowel-nails of the profile to the walls, certain difficulties may arise. To avoid this, you should familiarize yourself with certain nuances:

1. When installed in brick wall the place of the dowel-nail should be determined. If the fastener gets on the border (in the mortar) between the brick, then there is a high probability that it will pop out. Since the solution may crumble.
2. Before drilling the wall, you should know for sure that wires do not pass there. electrical wiring. Otherwise, a short circuit will occur.
3. If the wall passes metal fittings, this will also negatively affect the hole making.
4. For the correct mounting of the dowel-nail, it is required to make holes with a diameter the same as the dowel (6mm.).
5. You need to drill the wall at low speed so that the material from the surface does not come out in a single piece, while a large hole is formed.
6. When driving the dowel, the restrictive cuff will prevent the fastener from falling into the hole. Therefore, the dowel should be hammered in carefully.

If the hole turned out to be large and the dowel does not hold, this can be fixed in the following ways:

• screw a self-tapping screw nearby;
• drill if possible large diameter with the choice of the appropriate dowel;
• insert a plastic dowel and drip a little there polyurethane foam. Overnight, it will increase, press the plastic part and harden. Only after that you can screw a nail in there and remove excess foam;
• squeeze liquid nails into the hole;
• insert the plastic part of the dowel-nail into the hole, apply plaster. It will dry overnight, then screw in the nail.

On the ceiling structure for a suspended ceiling, it is better to use an iron wedge anchor, because in case of a fire it does not melt, but holds metal structure. And for reliable fastening of direct ceiling hangers, this the best option structure retention.

But, if the ceiling is leveled with drywall in the old panel house, then you can use a plastic dowel-nail. It is better wedged and holds the metal frame.

In addition, read for fastening directly to the GKL sheet.

Show something different from the tables on the blog, otherwise I haven’t been for a long time.

Children's theme in recent times I was captured not like a child. Various items were asked to make in the kindergarten.

The first subject, educational, necessary and useful. This is a traffic light, by which children will learn the rules traffic, an archival thing.

I’ll make a reservation right away, they also made a version of the pedestrian with little men, but simpler from cardboard.

In principle, this three eyes were also asked to make a cardboard-simple one, but how can I do it without problems)) I thought, why not make a reliable academic subject right away, and I did. How much is enough.

The concept of the figure is as follows, large enough for everyone to see, stable, durable and with swivel mechanism, the meaning is that there are 4 sides, one side shows all the signals for a general understanding of the device.

The other three sides on one signal, the teacher can turn and show any color from 3 and ask the kids about its purpose.

In general, I thought it would be right

The initial thoughts about color circles on magnets and other light bulbs had to be canceled, we need a simple, understandable solution that is difficult to break, magnet circles can be lost, battery bulbs fail.

I don't know if it worked out, but time will tell.

The whole base is MDF, which glued the pva, for a temporary tack, also fastened it with a micro-pin.

Separately, I note that it is possible to make circles of various diameters on the circular, and most importantly the same size, with the help of a non-tricky device, first we cut square blanks, and then on the device by rotating the part we cut off the corners to the polyhedron, and then by rotating the part we finish it to a circle.

I glued the box, the visors are halves of the eyes of the circles, I made a groove under them with a milling cutter, so such things cannot be reliably glued into the end.

The whole thing revolves on a pipe from the Joker system, in my opinion, for shelving, so that the stops do not fall out and fail, which I fixed with bedbugs.

I made the base massive and wide from thick layers of MDF, with such a base it is not so easy to tilt the traffic light on its side.

I played the fool and drilled through the pipe, I had to slap a plate from the return line.

I painted everything from a spray can, then varnished it, the thing is ready.

I did not paint the signal mugs, they are cut out of self-adhesive paper, so it is easier to update the demonstration item.

Who has read, look at the slides

hallway o. small - 1.2 in length and 2.4 meters in width. wardrobe is required. Planned along the wall. The classic cabinet depth of 60 cm will gobble up the floor of the hallway, so it was decided to make the depth 40 cm ("shoulders" along, and not across, will have to be placed in the cabinet). I looked at the closet from the gallery "photo from Gregory", photo #19, as a suitable option. But there are no frame-by-frame recommendations for its manufacture ((((((I realized that first the frame is made (the left wall of the cabinet in the photo), the plasterboard is sheathed, and then the "filling" is sized inward. So? And what kind of light strip is at the top and bottom closet? Is this also a sheathed GKL profile?

• 110 responses

Continuation of the "balcony is not like everyone else" .

It came to some furniture on the balcony, they didn’t really turn around, so we decided to get by with a couple of pedestals. The furniture makers did their job in principle normally, but there was a nuance that apparently was beyond their power, or there were other arguments. The hostess was satisfied with everything, except for the design of the adjoining countertops to the windowsill. On the one hand, it seems that you can’t do it differently, all the more so the window sill turned out to be bent, on the other hand

Hello brothers in repair! For a long time I didn’t write anything here, and in general I rarely began to come in, everything somehow lacked time: now drinking, now partying, and now a new “attack” has attacked me. But knowing that you, in spite of everything, stubbornly do not forget me, I decided not to be a piglet, and to tell you about my new hobby. I'll start from afar: almost all my conscious life I worked as an electronics engineer, moreover, an engineer-developer of electronic and electrical devices of the widest class and purpose, and at the same time purely in the "defense industry". It is clear that the scope of my amateur radio interests was limited only by my laziness, there were simply no restrictions in radio components for me, I had EVERYTHING! Well, following the trends of the then amateur radio fashion, I mainly focus on radios and amplifiers, essno, on transistors and microcircuits. I haven’t been working in this area for a long time, and I threw everything into a landfill for a long time, but in my soul all this time a dream was glimmering - to make a tube power amplifier, and not simple, but such that everyone gasped. And I must say, at work, for most of my time, I dealt with electric vacuum devices, radio tubes, if in a simple way, so this topic was well known to me. And then there is this fashion for a "warm tube sound", for which people literally go crazy. In short, a year ago I decided to make my dream come true. I immediately decided: the mainstream, conventional tube amplifiers with an output transformer, are not interesting to me, this is not a royal business! Why not invent a TRANSFORMERless tube amplifier for me. Well, I had a good idea of ​​the difficulties along the way, and I had some of my own thoughts on this matter, but still I decided to consult with the radio amateurs. I found a suitable group on Facebook, began to publish in it myself, and somehow asked a question on the topic: would anyone tell me the circuit of such an amplifier. And they immediately give me a link: http://hifisound.com.ua...a-6s33s-otl/ (I hope I did not violate any Forum rules by providing a direct link here, especially since it is from a completely different area? ). I won’t talk about this scheme, if anyone is interested, I can later explain what’s what, I’ll just say that this scheme immediately interested me, both in its unusualness and in the potential opportunities that I saw in it. Decided to start. And where to start: parts - 0, there is a soldering iron, still Soviet, and a Chinese tester. But, the hardest thing is the beginning: I got used to Avito, Ali Express, went a couple of times to the Mitinsky radio market, began to grow into amateur radio junk ...

Now I’m going, I’ll walk Tinka, and I’ll continue, if you’re interested, already with pictures ...)))

The margin of safety is set by numerous points of attachment of parts to each other and their connections with the bearing surfaces of the floors with walls.
An example of attaching a ceiling profile to concrete

Scheme with dimensions for fixing ceiling profiles

Ceiling profiles are fastened during the assembly of the base under the entire length of the part, as well as to previously installed guides.
How is this done, what is needed and what nuances have to be considered?

If it is quite enough to choose only the fastening material corresponding to the material of the walls, then it is more and more difficult with ceiling rails. After all, it is necessary to connect the various parts of the frame to each other. So what fasteners do you need?

This is how vibration suspensions for mounting a ceiling profile look like

An example of attaching a profile to simple suspensions

self-tapping screws

Connecting the majority metal parts frame to each other. Moreover, such hardware is needed quite a large number of and different names.

• press washers and bedbugs (fleas). These are two different types of metal screws. The first ones have a wide hat and a larger size, the second small hardware with parameters up to 10 mm. For you can use the appropriate option.
  However, on planes where fleas will subsequently be preferred, their small caps do not interfere with the installation of the skin. Such fasteners are used for connecting ceiling and guide profiles to each other, as well as for fixing to the base rails;
  Profile connection example
  
  
• . By appearance this is an ordinary self-tapping screw with a plastic dowel, however, with its own mounting technology. They are not screwed in, but hammered with a hammer or an impact drill. For this, the tip of the dowel-nails has a sharpening, and not a gimlet. Such hardware is necessary for attaching direct suspensions to the surface of the building floor. You can also use a wedge anchor as an analogue for fixing suspensions.
  This is what the dowel-nails for the profile look like
  
  
  
  The process of attaching the profile to the dowel

It is important to make sure that dowels - nails provide a secure fixation in the thickness of the ceiling, they are not suitable for ceilings that have a fragile structure, for example, in old houses with clay-wooden ceilings!

Additional elements

Hangers. The type of fastening that will be required in (U-shaped suspensions). They provide the connection of the entire structure with the load-bearing floor.

Hanger dimensions drawing for profiles


Most often in residential buildings, direct suspensions are used - metal plates with perforations. But, this part can only be used with a small distance from the ceiling to the ceiling (usually 125 mm).

If it is necessary to significantly lower the level of the suspended structure, suspensions with traction are used, which make it possible to fix the ceiling profile at a distance of up to 1000 mm from the plane.

An example of attaching a ceiling profile to suspensions

The process of attaching suspensions by level


And also in some cases it is quite possible to replace the suspensions with homemade products from a guide profile for drywall, cut to size with bends for attaching the rails.
In the process of assembling the false ceiling frame, you may also need such elements as:

• for fixing the ceiling profile and transverse rails in the same plane;
  Crab connector dimension drawing
  
  
• Double layer connectors. Unlike the first option, they provide fastening of intersecting frame rails superimposed on one another;
  This is what a two-level connector looks like
  
  
  
  
• Extensions. They are necessary in the case of end connections of two;
  Scheme with the dimensions of the extension for the profile
  
  
  
  
• T-connector. The part is necessary when joining profiles at a right angle, as well as in fixing ceiling rails with guides.
  
  
  

When performing finishing work on a dwelling or installing any devices for a comfortable stay, you need to know in what ways it is possible to mount certain elements to the ceiling. Consider the most popular fasteners, the rules for choosing fasteners and how to install them in more detail.

Selection of fasteners

The ceiling mount is selected depending on the following parameters:

• type of fastener;
• type of ceiling covering;
• weight of the fixed structure.

We will analyze the various types of fasteners and the possibility of their installation in certain conditions. The main types of ceiling fasteners are:

• self-tapping screws;
• anchor bolts;
• suspensions;
• brackets.

Rules for choosing self-tapping screws

The easiest way to fasten structures is to use self-tapping screws.

Self-tapping screws are divided into two types:

• wood screws;
• metal screws.

Self-tapping screws designed for wood are used exclusively when fixing light weight elements to wooden ceilings(for example, in country houses). Fasteners are of three types:

1. standard with different thread pitch. If the self-tapping screws are black, then the metal from which they are made is hardened (more durable). Self-tapping screws yellow and gray colors less durable, since the material has not been hardened;

1. equipped with a press washer. Such self-tapping screws are smaller, but due to the increase in the fixation area, they are able to withstand a stronger load;

1. equipped with a hexagonal head. Self-tapping screws with a head are twisted wrench. They are more durable but require drilling before installation.

If you want to mount to the metal surface of the ceiling, then metal screws are used. Fasteners for metal surfaces there are:

• standard with a frequent pitch of the threaded tip. Used for fixing to metal, the thickness of which does not exceed 0.7 mm;

• equipped with a special tip that allows you to fix the product without prior drilling. Products can be used for any surfaces.

When choosing the size of self-tapping screws, the weight of the structure to be fixed should be taken into account. The greater the weight, the longer the fasteners should be.

If the ceiling to which you want to fix any device is made of, then self-tapping screws supplemented with dowels are used, since it will not work to screw a fastener into a brick (concrete) without a dowel.

Use of anchor bolts

If it is required to fix structures that are heavy, then special anchor bolts are used, which can be of the following types:

• with hexagon head. Fastening devices are easy to install and can be used to fix various designs, for example, drywall;

• wedge anchors. Used to fix suspended structures (for example, cornices). Easy to use, low cost and durable;

• hook anchors. They are used when it is necessary to hang various objects from the ceiling. For example, for a punching bag. The cost of such products is higher, but the absence of the need to equip the fastener with additional structures completely covers this negative factor;

• collet anchor. The fastener is used when it is necessary to hang heavy structures to the base of the ceiling through its trim. For example, using such a device, you can attach to the base of the ceiling through stretch fabric television.

Threaded anchor bolts can be unscrewed and then reinstalled, while anchors that are driven into the ceiling are disposable.

Varieties of suspensions and selection criteria

To finish the ceiling with any materials (gypsum board, and so on), special devices are used - suspensions that allow you to fix the structure at a certain distance from the base. Hangers can be:

• simple. Made from metal plates different thickness. The greater the thickness of the metal, the more weight the fastening device can withstand;

• adjustable. They are mainly used for ceilings that need to be lowered over a relatively large distance.

Hanging brackets are mainly used to mount a projector, TV, chandelier and other devices.

Brackets consist of:

• one or more fixing bolts;
• a special plate to which the necessary device is fixed.

The choice of brackets should be based on the convenience of mounting any device and the reliability of the design.

Mounting installation

If such mounting methods as self-tapping screws, suspensions or brackets are chosen, then their installation is carried out as follows:

1. the fastener fixation area is marked;
2. holes are drilled;
3. fixing screws (bolts) are screwed (driven in).

Do-it-yourself installation of anchor bolts is done as follows:

1. a hole is drilled in the marked place, the dimensions of which completely coincide with the dimensions of the bolt;
2. inserted into the hole anchor bolt. If it does not enter completely, then the hole needs to be further deepened;
3. the bolt is fixed in the prescribed way (by turning the bolt or hook, by additionally driving in to expand the wedge).

How to fix the chandelier on the ceiling, look at the video.