What are the screws for fixing the door frame. Do-it-yourself fastening of the door frame to the wall and quality analysis. Description of the mounting kit for quick installation of doors

- the procedure is troublesome and time-consuming. But with minimal woodworking skills and the necessary tools, you can still cope with the installation.

Not only aesthetics, but also the strength of the structure depend on whether the door frame was installed correctly. But before starting work, you should familiarize yourself with the main parameters that you need to pay attention to during installation.


Construction schemes

There are two schemes for fastening the door frame, which differ in the execution of cuts:

  • sawing at an angle of 90ᵒ requires a saw with fine teeth, accuracy and minimal knowledge of woodworking technology;
  • for an angle of 45ᵒ you will need a miter box or a miter saw.

The second mounting scheme is described below, since it is simpler in execution. Now - directly to the installation.

Stage 1. Elements of the door frame

First you need to purchase the necessary construction details. Here is a list of all accessories:

  • door leaf;
  • self-tapping screws with dowels;
  • a pair of vertical bars 2 m long;
  • one horizontal bar;
  • wooden platbands;
  • anchor bolts of the appropriate size;
  • iron hanging bars;
  • platbands;
  • wedges with a size corresponding to the width of the opening between the bar and the wall surface;
  • mounting foam;
  • foam gun.

Stage 2. Equipment

Installation requires a lot of tools and materials. Every owner should have some of them, the rest need to be bought or rented. So, for work you need to prepare:

Stage 3. Dismantling the old box

Preparation for installation often begins with the dismantling of the old door. This must be done in this order.

Step 1. First of all, the platbands are removed and the design of the door frame is disassembled. All this must be done very carefully so as not to damage the wall.

Step 2. Anchor bolts and other fasteners are unscrewed or, in extreme cases, cut off.

Step 3. The wall is checked for strength and, if required, further strengthened.

Note! Do not neglect the strength of the wall, because the reliability and durability of the box directly depends on this. If it is necessary to strengthen, it is better to make reinforcement and finish the “problem” areas with cement mortar.

Stage 3. Installing the door frame

Before starting, it is advisable to lay out all the components on the floor at a single level, after placing cardboard or other soft material. Also, the design can be placed on two tables or four stools.

Step 1. Upon completion of dismantling, measurements of the formed doorway are carried out. It is important that the width and height of the structure be at least 5 cm less than the opening - this will allow the installation of spacer wedges.

Note! The wedges should be 0.5 cm larger than the gaps, otherwise the mount will not be strong enough.

Step 2. The ends of the bars are sawn off with a miter box at an angle of 45ᵒ.

Step 3 Holes are made at the joints of the bars. The bars are tightened with self-tapping screws. When tightening, you need to be extremely careful, because if you overdo it, the tree can crack.

The lower bars in modern designs are not provided.

Step 4. It is determined on which side the door hinges will be attached, after which their outlines are outlined. The door leaf is tried on, the presence of a small gap between the floor and the frame is checked. With the help of a chisel, places for fixing door hinges are prepared. The hinges are screwed with self-tapping screws to the canvas and bar.

Step 5. Where the box will be adjacent to the wall, hanging strips are attached with self-tapping screws. The plank of each of the frames is equal to the width of the wall, and the tendrils extend 5-7 cm to the inner and outer sides. Horizontally there should be two such strips, vertically - three.

Next, the door frame (only without a canvas) is installed in the opening. Using a level and a plumb line, the horizontal / vertical structure of the structure is checked. From below, a spacer frame of the same size is installed with a bar located on top.

The frame for the doorway is almost ready.

Step 6

Step 7. It remains only to fix the box with anchors. Through the entire perimeter of the beam, through holes are made with equal pitch, points for drilling the wall are marked in parallel. Then the wall is drilled with a puncher, anchor bolts recessed into the bar are inserted into the holes obtained. Fasteners are tightened with a wrench.

Step 8. At the end, the door leaf is hung, after which the axes are checked. If everything is done correctly, the door will open and close easily. All cracks are filled with mounting foam.

Note! The amount of foam must be controlled, because an insufficient amount will reduce the strength of the structure, and an excess can cause the box to deform.

After that, platbands with pre-sawn corners are installed. For fixing, small nails without hats are taken, all joints are smeared with wax-based mastic.

Video - Assembling the door frame

Box fixing methods

If the width of the opening is greater than the width of the box, then instead of wood, you can use jambs made of MDF - a building material that has been very popular in recent years. In this case, the mounting technology is almost the same as described above.

Various additional elements are used to increase the distance from the bar. Such elements can be bought ready-made in the store or pre-cut at the preparation stage. In most cases, MDF is used with a special slat located in the center. This bar is removed, and in the groove below it, the required number of holes for the anchors is made. Then the groove is closed with a bar and a reliable and aesthetic design is obtained.

Door frame in a wooden house

Wood is an excellent building material, the main disadvantage of which is subsidence after construction. For this reason, you need to know how to make a door frame in this case.

In this case, there are only two options.

  1. If the width of the opening corresponds to the size specified in the project, then grooves are made at the ends and a beam is hammered into them. A box is nailed to the beam (it is better not to nail it directly to the walls, because the notorious subsidence will continue).
  2. With an unformed opening, the hole must be made slightly smaller than that specified in the project. The beam in this case is made with a groove.

The sequence of actions should be as follows.

Step 1. First, the outline of the future opening is marked, using the building level and plumb line.

Step 2. Then the opening is sawn out, the upper and lower parts are cut off.

Step 3. The diameter of the log house is measured and the dimensions of the jambs of the door frame are determined from the resulting figure. Jambs are made from decks.

Step 4. The decks are split into blocks and hewn.

Note! It is not at all necessary that the profile of the jambs be rectangular - it can be, for example, trapezoidal.

Video - Door frame made of wood and MDF

And the last. During repair work, the humidity in the room usually rises, which is very important, especially when assembling the door frame. After some time, the door, previously sitting tightly, begins to loosen. At the same time, many masters also prefer to save on fittings. This is not necessary, because a weak fastening usually causes the fragility of the door.

To quickly and conveniently install interior doors, you can use a special mounting kit that will greatly facilitate the installation process. Both experienced craftsmen, and, especially, beginners, argue that it is much more convenient and easier to mount doors using a kit. In the article, we will consider the features of the mounting kit, find out what is included in its composition. And also find out at what price you can buy this useful accessory from different manufacturers.

Description of the mounting kit for quick installation of doors

Mounting kit consists of two parts: the first is attached to the door frame from its inside, and the second part is attached to the wall of the doorway. By connecting the parts of the hardware system with each other, it becomes possible. And, besides this, you can adjust the evenness of the box with the canvas already installed.

You can make adjustments and check the evenness of the installation at any stage of work: and at any stage it will be possible to correct the “jamb”, if any. At the same time, the savings in time and effort are significant.

You will learn how to install a convenient handle with a lock for an interior door.

pros

Find out what are the advantages of the installation kit for installing doors.

Although outwardly the kit looks like just a set of fasteners, in fact it is a well-thought-out “from and to” door installation technology. And the detailed instructions attached to the kit will allow you to install the doors even to a person who is far from such activities.

Using the kit allows you to significantly save on the purchase of fasteners, as well as save nerve cells and time. The kit already includes all the accessories and necessary elements for mounting the door frame.

What to do if the key is stuck in the door lock will tell you.

All mounting kits are concealed fasteners. They do not require through drilling of the box. Does not suffer from their presence and door decor. At the same time, the kit allows you to fix the box in six places, which makes the finished product securely and firmly fixed.

Thanks to this device, standard training, which usually takes a lot of time and effort, can be excluded from the work process. This greatly simplifies installation and saves time.

Among the work that will not be needed when using the mounting kit are the following:

  • adjustment (more often - reduction) of the opening area;
  • strengthening the walls of the opening;
  • floor level adjustment and other types of work.

This reduction in work steps reduces installation costs, resulting in significant time savings.

One of the indisputable advantages of using the installation kit is the ability to quickly and easily dismantle the old door, and just as quickly fix the new one in its place. In this case, it will not be necessary to destroy the opening, since the new door is hung on the remaining fasteners from the old one.

The versatility of the fasteners included in the mounting kits allows you to use it to install doors of various sizes and modifications. In addition, the mounting kit will cope even if the door frame is noticeably skewed.

Read how to open the front door lock without a key.

Using the mounting kit, it is easy to install doors into wall openings from a variety of materials:

  • tree;
  • bricks;
  • concrete;
  • drywall;
  • foam concrete, etc.

When using such a set, the need for spacers, wedges, and other types of temporary fixation of the box disappears. Adjustment is carried out using open-end wrenches, available in literally every home. If, nevertheless, an open-end wrench was not found, you can also use pliers to tighten the adjusting screw.

Well, if the gap between the door frame and the opening is insignificant, then one nut can be excluded, leaving 5 attachment points. This method allows you to reduce the clearance to 10 mm. Due to reliable fixation, the service life of the door block is significantly extended.

Due to the fact that when using mounting kits for installing doors there is no need to “foam” the gaps in the box, the reliability of the fasteners increases. In addition, the specified parameters of metal brackets do not lose their relevance even after a few years, which will ensure the evenness of the box. The foam used in normal installation may begin to crumble, lose rigidity, so the benefits of using metal fasteners are obvious.

It is possible that information about overhead locks for an entrance metal door will be useful to you, which will help you understand.

Metal fasteners securely hold the box in the opening, so even after the voids are filled with foam, the box does not “mangle”.

When the door is installed in the usual way, it can only be used after the foam has completely cured. And when using the metal fasteners of the mounting kit, this opportunity appears immediately after completion of work. For some rooms (bathroom, toilet, kitchen) this advantage is very important.

What is included in the set of accessories for the interior door frame

Find out what components are included in the installation kit for installing doors.

  • The kit includes detailed instructions, following which you can competently and quickly cope with the door installation.
  • A special universal key that allows you to quickly deal with the fixation of all fasteners. They can tighten all the nuts included in the kit, which is also “at hand” to the one who is engaged in the installation. You may also be interested in information about .
  • Nut with collar. This fastening element makes it possible to firmly fix the door in six different places, which ensures much greater reliability of fastening. Some manufacturers also offer special nuts without washers, which make the installation process even easier.
  • A screw with a press washer - also in the amount of six pieces.
  • Plastic dowels - 6 pcs.
  • Low nut - 6 pcs.
  • Self-tapping screws of a certain size (usually - 16 mm) - in the amount of 12 pcs.
  • Hexagon head bolts allow for a secure and durable fixation of the door frame.
  • Mounting bracket - 6 pcs. This element allows you to adjust the evenness of the installation of the door frame with a minimum error. In this case, the adjustment can be carried out with the door leaf already installed.

Features of mortise locks for wooden entrance doors are described.

Manufacturers and prices

We will find out at what cost mounting kits for installing doors from different manufacturers are offered today.

Creepdver Company offers high-quality mounting kits from economy class to the "Special" level. So, the economy option for 400 rubles is perfect if the weight of the door leaf does not exceed 50 kg.

But the “universal” set is more popular, which is also suitable for doors of the same “weight category”, however, it includes a special curved key. The last tool allows you to quickly cope with adjusting the gaps and fixing the brackets. The cost of the "universal" kit is 420 rubles.

For massive heavy interior doors (for example, oak), the company offers a variant with reinforced brackets. The cost of the "special" set is 495 rubles.

Domestic manufacturer "Ocean» offers mounting devices for installing doors at a price of 400 rubles. Minus - a curved wrench is not included in the package. But if you do not take this drawback into account, in general, the quality of fasteners is decent and quite competitive.

You can also read the material on how to change the lock on the front metal door,.

By the way, if you search well, you can find offers and even at a price of 100 rubles per set. But in this case, a minimum order amount of 500 rubles is required. The quality of such kits causes logical caution, so it's better to pay more, but get a guaranteed quality product than to become the owner of five faulty kits.

Video

Mounting kit for installing doors:

We examined the features of using the installation kit for installing interior doors. As you can see, this device is, without a doubt, a very useful thing, saving time, effort and money. In addition, the mounting kit makes it possible to cope with the work even for a beginner. Therefore, if you are going to change the doors inside the apartment, do not forget to purchase this useful set of fasteners, with which you can get the job done in a short time.

How to check the quality of installation of interior doors

The main difference between DverKrep fasteners and other methods of fastening the door frame to the wall is the fastening sequence. It is this feature of fasteners that always allows you to accurately and securely fix the door frame.

Anyone who often has to drill holes in walls knows that it is not always possible to accurately drill a hole in a chosen place. The drill (drill) can lead to the side due to the inhomogeneous material of the wall at the drilling site.

It may also turn out that in the place chosen for the hole, the self-tapping screw will not hold in the wall due to the fact that the wall material in this place is loose.

It turns out, as a rule, only when you start drilling a hole.

When using DverKrep fasteners, holes are first drilled in the wall, self-tapping screws are screwed into the wall. No precision is required when drilling holes in the wall. If, when drilling a hole, it turned out that the wall is loose in this place, another place is chosen to screw in the self-tapping screw, where it will be securely held in the wall.

When all the screws on which the door frame will be attached are screwed into the wall, the mounting plates are marked and screwed to the door frame according to the location of these screws.

The fastener provides for the possibility of fine adjustment of the door fixed in the opening, therefore, precise marking of the places where the mounting plates are screwed to the door frame is also not required.

The door frame with mounting plates screwed to it is fixed in the doorway on self-tapping screws screwed into the wall. As a result, the door frame is securely fixed in the doorway.

Adjusting the door fixed in the opening allows you to move the door frame to set the interior door to the desired position, as well as finely adjust the verticality of the door leaf and the door porch, set the same gaps between the door leaf and the door frame.

Box assembly.

Fastening trim strips to the door frame.

Installation with an addition to the opening. Hanging door leaf.

Insertion of the lock mechanism, fastening of handles and counterpart.

Marking, trimming and fastening of cashers.

The procedure is as follows:

We measure 90-100 centimeters from the floor and apply the lock body to the door in this place. We plan places for pens.

With a drill with a feather drill, we make a through hole for the handles. We select the diameter of the drill so that it is less than the diameter of the handle from the outside by 3-4 mm.

We mark at the end of the door the borders under the niche of the lock mechanism. Next, with a milling cutter or a feather drill 18-20 mm, we drill a recess under it. If this is done with a drill, then the final processing will have to be done with a chisel.

We check the depth by inserting the lock into the recess. After that, with a chisel or a milling cutter, we make a small niche for the mounting plate of the lock. The depth should be such that the body is completely drowned.

In the photo, a direct suspension is screwed to the slope of the doorway and to the door frame.

Then I decided to use direct suspensions. used when working with drywall profiles. After assembling the door frame, I took the suspension, divided it in half, attached the resulting parts with wood screws to the outside of the door frame. Thus, the screws went through several layers of MDF, and at the same time, an additional mount appeared at the door frame. Hangers attached three on each side of the door.

In the photo, for more reliable fastening, hangers are attached in 3 pieces on each side.

When installing the box in the opening, first put marks under the holes, then bending the suspension (fortunately it bends well), drilled holes for the dowel, fastened it with a dowel - a nail.

In the photo, the door frame with the door is not yet blown in with foam, but it is already securely fixed.

During the installation process, I appreciated the advantages of using a suspension:

You only need to set the doors vertically once, and after that the vertical does not go astray, and when using foam, you would have to constantly monitor the vertical of the box;

Due to the flexibility of the hangers, it remains possible to adjust the door frame horizontally, with the possibility of installing wedges;

After filling the gap between the wall and the box, the likelihood of the box moving due to foam pressure is reduced.

In a word, the door frame is firmly fixed, I am glad that I found a use for direct suspension outside of drywall systems. Even after a year of operation of the doors, the box did not loosen at all.

In the photo the door is installed, only the door handles remain.

Fasteners for the frame of interior doors

Interior door frame size

Actually the door frame is two vertical posts and a crossbar. The material for its manufacture may be different. It can be oak, walnut, birch, cherry, or maybe MDF, which is covered with veneer. As for the material - there are pros and cons everywhere - it is up to the end consumer to decide, since natural wood, although it has always been prestigious, requires more care due to some hygroscopic properties of tree species.

MDF today is made of excellent quality, so this material is often used for the construction of a door frame.

The size of the interior door frame is determined by the width of its elements. This is also called the thickness of the door frame. It can actually be different and depends on the thickness of the walls of the doorway themselves.

For a brick wall, with a thickness of 75 mm, a door frame with a width of 108 mm is suitable. There are options with thicker walls. For example, with a thickness of 100 mm. For such walls, a 120 mm thick door frame is suitable.

Despite the fact that the dimensions are standardized, the size of the interior door frame is something that needs to be given a lot of attention. This is due to the fact that these dimensions may not match the standards of some foreign manufacturers. The fact is that each country can have its own standards.

How difficult do you think it is to install interior doors with your own hands? For many, even the thought of such work inspires horror. In fact, doing this is not at all as difficult as it might seem. We will try to convince you of this in one article. If you want to save some money on repairs without sacrificing quality, go for it! And we will help you with some valuable tips. But first, let's talk a little about what material it is better to buy doors from and why.

Interior door material

The quality of the material from which the door is made depends not only on the appearance, but also on the durability, performance properties, as well as how fast and easy the installation of interior doors will be. The most common are doors made of fiberboard, MDF, and solid wood.

MDF doors They are a frame made of wood, sheathed with sheets of fiberboard. Such doors are popular among buyers for only one reason: low price (about 800 rubles). Lightness is also a plus. The light weight allows you to transport and install the product alone. Otherwise, fiberboard doors are of the same quality as their price category - low strength, poor sound insulation. And one more thing: the installation of interior doors made of fiberboard is contraindicated where the level of humidity is high.

They cost an order of magnitude more expensive, but by purchasing them, you will be sure that you will not have to change the doors soon. The MDF material appeared with the improvement of fiberboard production technology, so it is obvious that its strength, sound insulation and moisture resistance indicators are much higher. In addition, harmful epoxy resins and phenol are not used in the production of MDF. The price of MDF doors is about 3 thousand rubles.

Solid wood doors- the most expensive option. There is no need to list all the advantages of natural wood over other materials. Let's just say that the price of solid wood doors depends on the type of wood. Pine is one of the inexpensive materials, since a door made of it is inferior in performance to doors made of ash, oak, etc. The average price of a door made of natural wood is about 12 thousand rubles.

solid wood doors

We have described only the most popular types of doors, but there are many more options that may be more suitable for your interior: steel, glass, plastic. However, their review simply does not fit into the scope of this article.

Choosing a door frame

The purchase of a door frame must be treated as carefully as the choice of doors. This element must support the weight of the door.

So, the three most common types of materials for door frames are:

  1. Fiberboard. We have already mentioned the features of this material above. A product made of fiberboard is easy to damage even when interior doors are installed, it will not withstand increased loads and high humidity. The price of the box corresponds to the quality - low (about 400 rubles)
  2. Wood without processing. The cost of a product made of profiled timber is not much different from the cost of fiberboard. This can be explained by the fact that the beam requires finishing, and the fiberboard product is completely ready for installation and operation. But in terms of performance, fiberboard is much inferior to natural wood.
  3. Laminated wood. It differs from the second option by the presence of finishing in the form of a laminated coating. The question is how good is the coverage. It depends on how your door frame will look in a few years. The best coating is made of plastic.

For comparison, below are illustrations of door frames made of raw (a) and laminated (b) wood.

What else will you need to purchase? Perhaps, in order to complete the design of the opening, platbands and an additional plank will be needed. We recommend that you do not buy them in advance - you may not need them.

Required Tools

Saw;
Drill;
Drill ø4 mm (for wood);
Drill ø6 and 4 mm (for concrete);
Nozzle on a drill for screws;
Roulette;
Level;
Screws 60 × 3.5 mm, dowels 75 mm long;
Mounting foam.

Step by step installation of interior doors

Below is a diagram of fastening the door frame to the wall. From it you can see that the box is fixed with self-tapping screws, then the gap between the beams and the wall is filled with foam.

1 - door frame;
2- door;
3 - self-tapping screws;
4 - polyurethane foam.

Let's see how interior doors with a fiberboard frame are installed.

Stage 1. Assembly of the box

As a rule, the length of the door frame beams is made 5 - 6 cm longer, so your task is to make sure that the dimensions of the frame and the door opening match. It will be better if you assemble on the floor. Consider which way the door will open.

a) We fix the beams on the screws. Due to the low strength of the material, it would be better to drill holes first, and only then screw in the screws. We measure the height of the doorway.

b) With a hacksaw, cut off the excess along the length of the box. Since there is a high probability of damage to the product, this should be done carefully. When measuring the required size of the box, be careful: the gap between it and the wall (for sealing with foam) should be 1-2 cm.

Stage 2. Preparing for installation

a) Insert the door frame into the opening and fasten the door. If the box is installed correctly, according to the level, then the door will open and close easily.

b) Remove the trim strip from the end and drill 7 holes on all sides (approximately every 30 cm). Once again, check the vertical position of the box with a level.

c) We mark the necessary places on the wall with a drill ø4 mm and drill the wall with a drill ø6 mm. If there is a brick in the opening, try to drill the body of the brick, not the seam - there the dowels will be fixed much better.

d) Install the dowels.

Wood drill 4mm. Drilling the box

We drill a brick wall, a drill for concrete

Self-tapping screws for door installation. Self-tapping screws for quick installation in a bag, self-tapping screws for wood on the right

Stage 3. Fixing the box to the wall

It is better to use wood screws and a screwdriver. Do not tighten the screws all the way, because the box is fragile and it will be easy to bend it. Make sure that the surface is strictly vertical. After screwing the box, you can put the door on the hinges.

We put wedges so that the box does not bend

Check gaps before foaming

After fixing the box with screws, the door should close and open freely

Stage 4. Fill the seam with foam

In the gap formed between the beams of the box and the wall, we place some material (for example, cardboard), then fill it with mounting foam. It is important that the door is already in place. Otherwise, the box will simply arch, because the foam, when hardened, increases in volume and can tear the screws out of the dowels.

Seam sealing

Fill the seams from the bottom up. Remember that the foam increases in volume when it hardens, so avoid overspending - fill the gap only a third.
It remains to wait a day for the foam to completely harden. In this case, the door must be stationary.

We close the gaps with dense material

We fill the foam for the third part

Finishing doorways

When the installation of interior doors is completed, it remains to hide the seam of the mounting foam with platbands (in diagram 1 - item 1).

If the platbands are unfinished, fasten with self-tapping screws. For laminated products, it is better to use self-tapping screws with decorative plugs.

If the box is narrower than your doorway, you can attach an additional plank to the wall or make slopes.

The latter option is only suitable for a wooden door frame, because fiberboard can warp from a wet solution.

As you can see, installing interior doors is not as difficult as it might seem. Try it and you will definitely succeed. The main thing is to follow our recommendations and act according to the principle “measure seven times, cut once”.

The most important step in installing the door is fixing the door frame to the wall - the video below will confirm this. Weak fasteners, non-compliance with the level and other installation errors can lead to the canvas not entering the box or the door opening randomly. In the worst case, the whole structure will simply fall.

We suggest you explore several installation methods, and choose for yourself the one that seems to you the most optimal in your situation.

If you are replacing an old door with a new one, you need to carefully dismantle it by removing the trim with a nail puller, after sawing the box and pressing it out of the opening. Firmly seated old fasteners for the door frame can be cut down with a grinder.

Then it is necessary to examine the slopes for their strength, and the walls adjacent to them - for verticality and evenness. Inconsistency with the level and curvature of the walls will lead to the fact that visually the door will seem to be placed crookedly, and the platbands will not adhere to the plane of the walls.

Therefore, all the shortcomings should be tried to be corrected at this stage with the help of plaster or cladding along the frame.

In addition, even before the start of installation, you should make sure that the door leaf will enter the opening not only in width, but also in length. The instruction says that there should be a gap of about 1 cm between it and the floor. Keep this in mind if the floors have not yet been leveled or the flooring has not been laid.

Note. The opening should be slightly wider than the outer dimensions of the box. If this is not the case in your case, you will have to expand it or choose a different door model.

If the opening is too wide for the selected door, it will have to be reduced by bricking it or by embedding a drywall box in it. It is not recommended to leave a large gap and fill it with mounting foam. This will weaken the fixation and make it problematic to fix the skirting board at the door frame.


Mounting methods

There are several ways to fix the door frame in the wall opening. Each of them uses its own type of fastener. And each of the options provides a certain level of strength and reliability of the structure.

The choice of method depends both on the material of the walls and on the weight.

Foam mounting

The algorithm for performing work is simple:

  • The assembled box with a hinged door leaf is inserted into the opening and fixed in it with wooden wedges;

  • The building level determines its correct position relative to the vertical. Moreover, the level must be applied to two adjacent faces: inner and side;

  • Spacers 3 mm thick are inserted between the frame and the closed door on top and on the sides;

Advice. In order not to stain the canvas with foam and not damage it, you can use spacers made of wooden slats or special adjustable fixtures instead.

  • Mounting foam foams small areas between the wall and the box;
  • When they dry, the entire perimeter is filled with it. You can’t do this right away, because, expanding, the foam will put pressure on the box. Foaming the perimeter, you should not fill it completely, initially half the volume is enough to leave room for expansion.