Each master is faced with the problem of how and what to mount assembled doors. To install ready door block application possible various ways installation. Knowing these installation options, you can easily choose the right one for yourself. You will need a small set of tools such as a drill, hammer, level, screwdriver and hammer. Also, to directly fix the box in the opening, you need fasteners and mounting foam. Depending on where you need to fix the door block, you may need self-tapping screws, dowels, anchors.
The main stages of installing a door block
At the very beginning, the old door frame is dismantled. It can be carried out using a nail puller (crowbar), having previously made cuts on both sides of each vertical bar, in order to then press this structure away from the opening. If during installation old box were used anchor bolts, nails that are not possible to unscrew, they can be cut off with the help of a grinder.
Before installing the interior door frame, it is necessary to check the verticals of the walls and take into account the differences in the level of the walls and floor. The door frame must be positioned so that if there are irregularities, the wall box does not deepen in the opening. This is necessary to fit the door trim. In order to correctly position the door frame, you should use the building level and take into account all the opening errors.
First, the installations are rigidly fixed in the opening, in order to achieve the initial level of rigidity, wedges are used. After completing the fixing work, it is worth re-checking the correct location of the level so that the box is level with the door.
Working with mounting foam
It is important to know that the foam that is designed for the gun is much better and more convenient to use due to the fact that it is more dosed and has a small expansion coefficient, it hardens much faster. Foam served with a straw large quantity, it will expand longer. Before starting work, it is better to cover the door leaf with masking tape and film, because the foam is difficult to wash. It is important to know that you need to start foaming with the fixation of individual small sections. After 30 minutes, you can already go through the entire perimeter. All cracks are filled with foam (50% of the total volume). Do not fill with a large amount of foam, because during expansion the foam will squeeze the box inside. We recommend using professional foams.
Since the tree shrinks and expands precisely because of high humidity a consequence of the expansion is the deformation of the door block. The door simply stops closing for this reason.
Video on possible door mounting methods
There are several ways to fasten the door frame in the opening, each of which involves the use special kind mounts. Various options fasteners provide a certain level of reliability and strength of the fixed structure. We hope the video stories on the options for installing boxes wooden doors will help you.
Hidden way to install doors on foam
The door frame is fixed in the opening, wooden wedges are used for fixing, and correct location checked by building level. Foaming with mounting foam should be done little by little, in sections and intermittently to avoid deformation. The door frame is kept almost thanks to the foam alone.
To maintain a gap between the frame and the door itself, small spacers of 3 mm are used, which are inserted between the door and the frame. They can be removed only when the foam dries. Usually the door is left overnight.
This method is convenient if you do not need to go into the room, it is fast and does not require much effort. It is important not to overdo it with foam so that you can open the door.
Installing doors with clamps or spacers
The principle of installation lies in the fact that we use inside for temporary fastening of the door block in the opening of the spacer. It can be both ordinary wooden rivers and special adjustable devices.
Both of these methods are very good for light and small doors.
Fastening doors with Knauf hangers
For these purposes, Knauf's direct suspensions, which are used in suspended ceilings, are the best fit.
- First you need to screw the plates to the box.
- Insert the door into the opening.
- Adjust the level.
- We mark the places under the recess in the wall.
- We make a sample under the plate.
After that, we set according to the level and fix the plates. For adjustment, we use wedging with wooden blocks.
It is also necessary to take into account that with this method of mounting the box on the outer part of the wall, the place of the recess will definitely need to be hidden under a layer of plaster. That is why this method is good only when there is no fine finish.
New mounting options
This video will let you know how to fix the door frame in the opening. This type of fastening is the installation of an interior door frame by putting the box on the screwed-in heads of self-tapping screws that are located at the ends of the opening. This happens with the help of metal plates with a hole, which are screwed on the outside of the box.
To achieve the final fixation of the box in doorway using the usual means of adjustment.
With this method, the racks of the door block move freely in the opening.
A clear advantage of this method is the full possibility of adjustment and, at the same time, rigid fixation while maintaining original form boxes and exterior finish walls. 
Concealed installation, fastening under hinges
As a rule, for the rigidity of the structure, screws or anchors are used, which are hidden under the hinges. To do this, a hole is made between the screws in the loop and fastened through it to the wall. From the side of the lock, another mount is attached under the decorative plate. As a result, we get 3 fixation points.
After fixing directly, we put a spacer at the bottom of the doors, since the bottom is not fixed and fill all the gaps with foam.
A significant advantage of this method is the relative rigidity, the preservation of appearance.
Through-hole fastening on anchors or screws
This is the most common standard version installation of interior doors. For this mounting option, first, holes for anchors are drilled in the right places of the racks, then the door is fixed in the opening.
Training
- Marking 4 anchors on each side.
- Drilling with a pen 14 mm to a depth of 10 mm (space for a plug).
- Drilling through hole 10 mm pen (place for fixing with an anchor).
After that, the box is exposed and the concrete under the anchor is drilled with a 10 mm drill. When the box rests on its anchors, it holds securely and does not require any spacers. Mounting points can be hidden by installing decorative caps desired color, size (14 mm). Screws can be used instead of anchors, this will reduce the diameter of the plug. The use of this option is the most reliable for heavy doors. With it, you can align (stretch) a curved rail. Doors can be used almost immediately. It is possible to adjust the gap. The downside is the presence of stubs. 
Tricks when installing door extensions
Conclusion
There are many options for installing an interior door frame, but you should choose the one that is the easiest, most convenient and reliable, or the fastest. The choice can be made according to any method of door installation, but these methods can be affected by which opening the installation takes place, take into account the intensity and other factors.
1. Mounting foam
Foam can be both well-known construction brands and noname, in principle it does not matter, the main thing is that it be polyurethane foam. I have been using various brands of foam for many years and the only difference I have found is the price. If you do not have a professional pistol (and when installing 3-5 doors, there is no need for such a pistol), then you need to buy foam with disposable nozzles inserted into the cap. Required amount foam depends on the gap between door frame and a wall or partition and from the width of the door frame. As a rule, one cylinder with a capacity of 750 ml is enough to install one door.
2. Plumb or good level
3. Wedges
Usually wedges are made from improvised material: scraps wooden beam, old door frames, skirting boards, platbands, etc. But in some cases, if the doorway is quite vertical and the gaps between the door frame (chute, jamb) do not exceed 1.5-2 cm, then ready-made wedges can also be used:
These wedges are sold in sets of 20-100 pieces. in the departments of shops and supermarkets dedicated to laminate flooring. To install 1 door, you must have (or make) from 8 to 32 wedges.
4. Struts
Usually spacers are made from old skirting boards or platbands. For this purpose, you can also buy a beam with a section of 2.5-3x4-5 cm. I have never seen ready-made spacers for installing doors on sale, but I do not exclude this possibility. The number of spacers depends on the design and thickness of the door frame, as well as the thickness of the foam layer. If the door frame has a threshold and the thickness of the frame is 3 cm or more, then 1 spacer in the middle is sufficient. For boxes with a thickness of about 2 cm, it is advisable to put 3 spacers. For boxes with a thickness of 1.5 cm or less (and there are such), it is better to use wall or partition mounts.
5. Hammer or rubber mallet
6. Hacksaw, ax or chisel
For making wedges
Work performance technology:
Before installing the door, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with basic installation rules , but if this is not a secret for you, then let's go:
1. After setting the bottom of the door frame (on the side where the awnings are) on desired height a wedge (1) is inserted between the door frame and the wall where the spacer will subsequently be installed.
2. Wedges (2) are driven in from above between the upper crossbar of the door frame and the doorway. Thus, the door frame is fixed in height:
The vertical position of the door frame in the plane, perpendicular to the plane walls or partitions, checked with a plumb or level. If necessary, the door frame can be carefully knocked out with a hammer in the right direction, using a piece of plywood or wooden block. If there rubber mallet, then you can do without plywood or bar.
3. To expose the door frame in a plane parallel to the plane of the wall or partition, a wedge (3) is selected. Verticality is controlled by a plumb or level.
4. After the vertical bar of the box with canopies is set to the design position, it must be fixed with a wedge (4).
5. After that, the door is put on the canopies. At this stage, the accuracy of setting the door frame is checked: the door opens at 30, 60 and 90 degrees. In all positions, after stopping by hand, the door must not continue to move. If the door starts to open or close by itself in one or more positions, check again the verticality of the box in both planes and, if necessary, knock out the wedges. Very often, the use of a low-quality level leads to this result, change the level to a plumb line or try to set the level as accurately as possible.
6. In order to determine the height of the second vertical (lock) bar of the box, you need to close the door and check the gap from above between the door leaf and the frame. To set the frame to the desired height from below, between the door frame and the floor ( flooring) a wedge (5) is driven in, and in order for the box to be securely fixed, a wedge (6) is driven in from above:
7. At closed door the position of the locking bar is checked. The door should adjoin the door frame around the entire perimeter, distortions are eliminated with a hammer or rubber mallet.
8. If the door frame is without a threshold, then a spacer (7) is installed between the door frame slats from below and a wedge (8) is driven in. It is better to install the spacer not in a quarter of the door frame, but nearby, so that the door with the spacers installed can be closed and the position of the door frame can be controlled. It is better to make spacers not exactly the width of the door frame opening, but a little less, and when setting the spacers, use wedges or "covens" - strips of thin plywood (9). The spacer is not installed horizontally, but at a slight angle so that there is room for maneuver. If you need to increase the width of the opening, then the wedge is pulled out a little, and the spacer falls lower (closer to the horizontal position). If you need to reduce the width of the opening, then first the spacer is raised, and then the wedge is knocked out. The position of the lock plate of the door frame is controlled when the door is closed, here a plumb or level is not needed, since the door leaf can be slightly skewed and the junction is visually more important door leaf to the lock bar along the entire length, and not the vertical position of the lock bar.
9. Further, depending on the thickness of the door frame and the gap between the door frame and the doorway, another 1, 2 or 3 spacers are installed. The principle of installing the spacers is the same, the main thing is that the wedges between the box and the opening are as close as possible to the spacers. The farther the wedges are from the spacers, the more the box can bend, especially if the box is less than 2 cm thick. The spacer is inserted first, and then it is supported by wedges.
10. After all the spacers are set, the correct setting of the door frame is checked again, the immobility of the door in 3 positions. The floor is covered with newspapers or plastic wrap and within 3-5 minutes the gap between the door frame and the opening in the wall or partition is blown with foam. The rules for working with mounting foam are usually quite clearly stated on the packaging.
Usually the installation of the door takes 1-3 hours, only the dried foam will need to be cut off in a day, but if the thickness of the foam layer is less than 1.5 cm, then it can be cut off after 3-5 hours. If the wedges protrude beyond the surface of the box, they can either be pulled out with pliers or cut down with a chisel. It is advisable not to pull out the lower wedges on which the box stands, but, if necessary, cut it down.
That's basically it, good luck.
The composition of the foam can be one- and two-component. Single component foam ready for use, it is produced in small containers. When sprayed, the foam expands in volume, reacting with the water contained in the air. Such foam can increase in size up to 250%.
Two component foam consists of a base and an activator. Before using the product, you need to remove the cylinder shutter and mix the components. This type foam quickly hardens, does not shrink, has good adhesion, provides good performance heat and sound insulation. Due to its characteristics, such foam is usually used for thermal insulation of walls and ceilings, but not for mounting doors.
How to foam the entrance metal doors?
- To close the slopes after installing a metal door using household foam, you need to insert spacers between the frame of the structure and the wall (application professional foam does not require it).
- Shake the foam bottle and wet the opening with water. Moisturizing will improve the grip of the foam and allow it to dry quickly. You need to wet the opening slightly, without flooding it with plenty of water.
- The balloon itself must be kept upside down. If the space between the box and the opening is 8-9 cm, lay the excess space with some material.
- The consumption of mounting foam should be such as to fill a third of the gap volume. The foam will then increase in size.
- Vertical slots are filled from the bottom up so that the foam does not fall down. It takes days to dry completely.
- You can remove the spacers after a few hours. After the foam has hardened, its excess is cut off, and the foam itself is covered with paint or putty.
Installation of door blocks from the company "STROYSTALINVEST"
To order iron doors it is possible in the company "STROYSTALINVEST". Installation of metal doors in Moscow and the region is carried out by qualified specialists. In their work, they use quality materials, including professional polyurethane foam. A properly installed entrance structure will serve its intended purpose for a long time, providing the room with reliable protection.
This type of installation uses the adhesive properties of polyurethane foam, commonly known as one of the trademarks"macroflex", and its ability to expand upon drying (more precisely, vulcanization), to fill all the cracks and voids. After inserting the fittings, the box is assembled on the floor and, together with the door leaf on wedges, is installed in the opening. To prevent deformation of the box, gaskets are inserted into the gaps between the door leaf and the frame. Next, the resulting cracks are filled with foam, and after it dries, the wedges are removed, and the excess foam is cut off with a knife.
The advantages of this method include the fact that, working with the assembled block, the installer can easily evaluate its optimal location in the opening before its final fixation. As well as the lack of holes for mounting screws in the box and the accuracy of its assembly.
The disadvantages of this method are the high risk of damage, because. the master often has to pull out the block and insert it again, for example, in order to remove unnecessary irregularities in the opening. This, of course, is not very convenient, given its size, and sometimes weight. In addition, it is difficult, and sometimes impossible, exactly, down to a millimeter, to "set the gaps" between the frame and the door leaf. The gaskets inserted into these places “tighten” the hinges, removing the existing backlash. After their removal, the canvas returns to its natural position, as a result, the gap between the end of the canvas and the box in the upper part decreases, and increases from below. During installation, it is difficult to check how freely the door opens and closes.
The expansion properties of the foam can be another disadvantage of this method. In order not to lock yourself in the room, the gaskets that limit the deformation of the box are removed after the surface drying of the foam after two to three hours. But polyurethane foam often continues to expand, and this process can continue, albeit less intensively, for quite a long time (a day or more). This often leads to deformation of boxes with insufficient rigidity, for example, in Spanish doors. And as already noted, it is enough just to move each rack by 1-2 mm so that the door leaf begins to touch the surface of the frame or the door stops closing altogether. foam on the canvas, and most importantly, you can leave the spacers until the foam is completely dry. But it is not always possible to install them with the required accuracy, again it depends on the amount of play at the hinges and the squareness of the door leaf.
In case of unsuccessful installation after the foam has dried and the end painting works the door is difficult to repair. There are some ways, but in most cases you have to run to the "through mount", i.e. you need to drill holes in the wall through the door frame - in fact, the method loses one of its advantages.
Problematic only "on the foam" in the standard. Because due to the thin walls of the bathroom (4-5 cm), the contact surface is too small and you cannot do without fixing screws.
Date: 2012-02-07 22:54:25
In the old days, filling the building planes was a whole affair: it was necessary to prepare building mixture or get tapes somewhere mineral wool. Today, these materials have already ceased to be used, since polyurethane foam has firmly entered our lives.
This material is easy to use and practical. Applying mounting foam is not difficult, besides, with its help you can always easily fill everything small cracks and cracks. It does not need to be somehow prepared for work, but sound and thermal insulation characteristics deserve the warmest words. Astringent characteristics allow the use of foam for gluing various insulating materials.
Starting to install doors
When the door frame is installed in the opening, it is necessary to adjust it horizontally and vertically. Immediately after that, you can proceed to fixing with foam. Since the foam that has fallen on the surface is removed very poorly, before using it, you need to protect the door frame. You can try to remove freshly applied foam with a solvent, but if it hardens, you only have to cut it, and its traces will remain on the surface. To avoid this, just cover the door and the box with a film or masking tape, you should work with gloves. Now you can get started.
Foam has an amazing ability to increase in volume several times, therefore opposite side the door frame should be reinforced with spacers. If this requirement is ignored, then the pressure that the foam creates will lead to deformation of the product.
Shake the can before using the foam and the opening and outside moisten the door frame with water. Moisture will increase the adhesion of the material and contribute to the rapid hardening of the foam. If there is an excess of water, the result will be just the opposite. Another parting word - the cylinder should always be turned upside down when using.
Mounting foam perfectly adheres to various building materials from glass to concrete. The only exceptions are chemical materials such as polyethylene, polypropylene, Teflon and silicone. Work with foam should be at a temperature environment+5..+30 degrees. However, there are varieties that work up to -10 degrees.
How to apply mounting foam
When the foam hardens, distortions of the door frame are possible. To insure against this, the foam can be applied in two stages. Initially, it is applied in dots, and after an hour or two, the remaining cavities are filled. In cases where the distance between the wall and the door frame is very small, the spray wand can be slightly flattened. When the distance is significant (8 cm and above), you can lay in space suitable material, and then fill it with foam from both edges.
As the foam expands, gaps and voids should only be filled by a third. Vertical cavities are preferably filled from the bottom up. In this case, the foam will act as a support. It may take 3-24 hours for complete curing, depending on the type of foam and environmental conditions. When the material has completely hardened, its excess can be removed and proceed to the next stage of installation work: installation of platbands, extensions, seals, etc.
Mounting foam is resistant to mechanical influences and has a lot of advantages. However, this material is not without drawbacks. It absorbs moisture and is destroyed by ultraviolet (direct sunlight). Given these shortcomings, in order to increase the operational life of the material, it is necessary to take care of its waterproofing protection and hide it from direct sunlight. To do this, use putty, paint or sealant.
Many work on installation of doors on mounting foam gives real pleasure. Observing simple rules working with this material, you will avoid annoying disappointments in the form of remaining foam on the surface of doors, walls or parts of your body.
