It has become commonplace for gardeners to grow watermelon. The process is simple, but it has certain difficulties that must be taken into account when growing (the plant may die before flowering, the fruits do not always grow tasty, and so on). Read more about how to grow a watermelon with your own hands, and will be discussed in this article.

The issue of choosing a variety should be approached with special responsibility. For the central zone of the Russian Federation, it is advisable to choose only early-ripening varieties, and there is no need to chase huge fruits in this matter - such watermelons realize their potential by 100% only when grown in the south of the country. Be sure to read the description of the variety on the package - it contains information about the duration of ripening (plant ovaries should ripen as quickly as possible).

On a note! You can neglect some qualities when choosing a variety. First of all, it is large-fruitedness and transportability. Do not pay attention also to the color and shape of the fruit - this is only necessary in cases where you grow watermelons not for yourself, but for sale.

The most common varieties of watermelon:

• "Kai";
• "Sugar Baby";
• "Ataman F1";
• "Ultraearly";
• "Stokes";
• "Spark";
• "Moscow Region Charleston F1";
• "Yarilo";
• Crimstar F1;
• "Leader";
• "Pink Champagne F1";
• "Gift to the North F1".

This is only a small part of the varieties that can be grown not only in the south of the country, but most often people choose them. Having decided on the variety of watermelon, you can start growing.

How to grow watermelon outdoors

Not everyone knows, but watermelons can be grown without seedlings, and seeds, already on permanent place. Often, seedlings are used only for further transplanting into greenhouses so that the watermelon ripens. But if you are growing watermelon in a garden plot, then you can safely skip the stage with seedlings and sow seeds.

The landing process is divided into several preparatory stages to get a good harvest. Let's consider each of them separately.

Seed preparation

By choosing suitable variety, wrap the seeds in a cloth bandage and put on a shallow plate, pouring a pre-prepared solution of potassium permanganate. The solution should be light pink and warm. After that, the saucer with the seeds should be placed in a plastic bag and tied with a little air. Transfer the seed plate to warm room(not less than +20°C). Change the solution daily and ventilate the bag. After 2-3 days, the seeds should hatch, after which they will be ready for planting in the ground.

Soil preparation

It is very important to prepare the land before planting watermelon. This is an integral part of growing, without which you can hardly get a good harvest. The prepared soil must provide the plants with nutrients throughout the entire growth period, it must be protected from strong winds and well lit.

For watermelon, as well as for other gourds, you need a loose, fertile and light soil. It’s great if your suburban area has sandy or sandy soil, which you enriched with rotted humus back in the autumn. If we talk about suitable predecessors of watermelons, then these are, of course, cruciferous vegetables, as well as legumes.

For best results, it is advisable to prepare the beds in advance and fertilize the soil. For this, 1 sq. m plot you need to make 20 g of potash fertilizers, 40 g and 30 g of ammonium sulfate. This combination of mineral fertilizers will significantly accelerate the growth of watermelon, as a result of which you can enjoy juicy and sweet fruits a little earlier.

Sowing watermelon seeds

The process of planting watermelon seeds is simple and practically does not differ from planting any other crop.

Table. Step by step instructions for sowing watermelon seeds.

Steps, photo	Description of actions
	Start sowing watermelon seeds in early May as it is a very thermophilic plant. Otherwise, if you do this earlier, the plant will greatly slow down in development. Take out the pre-prepared seed material that has already germinated.
	You should also have a planting mix ready, consisting of rotted humus, ash, mineral fertilizers and peat (the composition may vary, since there are many various recipes mixture preparation).
	Dig a large watermelon hole and fill it with some water.
	Pour the prepared mixture of fertilizers and humus into the hole. Carefully level with a hoe and water.
	Place at least 5 seeds in the hole (to a depth of 5 cm) and sprinkle it all with earth. The soil layer should be about 4 cm thick. Gently tamp the ground so that the seeds are not blown away by the wind or they are not injured. Repeat the procedure for each well.

Important! At first, 5-6 seeds should be sown in each hole, but over time, when they begin to develop, leave one plant in the hole.

Aftercare

Without providing full-fledged care, including top dressing and watering, it is impossible to grow a watermelon in the garden. The juiciness of the fruit directly depends on the level of humidity, but you should not overdo it with this matter, because you will not be able to enjoy the sugary pulp of sweet berries that everyone loves so much later. Conventionally, subsequent care can be divided into 4 stages: watering, top dressing, trimming lashes and destroying pests. Let's consider each of them separately.

Watering

When growing watermelons in a summer cottage, it is advisable to use. This will allow for regular feeding of crops.

The best option is drip irrigation

Watermelons need abundant but rare watering, especially during the hot period with a lack of natural moisture - remember this! For comfortable growth of watermelons, the soil moisture level should be at least 80%. If the site is located on sandy soil, then the beds need to be watered more often due to poor moisture retention. Clay soil and water the black soil less often. After the berries begin to ripen and they become poured, reduce the amount of watering, and after a few weeks stop them altogether.

top dressing

Feeding watermelons grown in a summer cottage consists of three procedures, each of which must be performed subject to certain conditions: at least 2 liters of liquid fertilizer should fall on one plant. After 7 days from the moment of planting the seeds, it is necessary to regularly water the plants with a special solution prepared by oneself (all ingredients and their proportions were described above).

After the lashes on the plants begin to grow actively, you need to make a second feeding of watermelons, but this time the amount of potash and phosphorus fertilizers should be half as much. When the formation of the ovaries begins, you need to carry out another top dressing, only with a different composition. Mix 10 liters of water, 35 g of potassium salts, 10 g of superphosphate and 20 g of ammonium sulfate.

Introduce the prepared nutrient mixture into the previously prepared furrows, which should be at a distance of 15 cm from the plant bushes. The amount of nitrogen fertilizers should be reduced due to the likelihood of their accumulation in the pulp of watermelons. Besides such measures can provoke the maturation of the plant, and not a set of green mass.

Whip trimming

During a short and insufficiently warm summer, some watermelon fruits do not have time to ripen, although the bush still spends energy on them, which could be distributed to other berries that really ripen. Therefore, each plant should have no more than 5 watermelons. Delete everything superfluous.

Important! When growing watermelons, you need to remember that female flowers form on the main lash of the plant - you can’t touch them, but side lashes delete. Compliance with all recommendations will allow you to get a harvest in the second half of August.

Pest control

The melon aphid that appears in June can create many problems for watermelons. Dwelling on the underside of the leaves, it sucks all the vital juices from the plant, causing the leaves to shrivel and dry. During the summer, aphids can give 2-3 generations. At first, pests live only on weeds, but with the onset of June, the females move to watermelons, remaining there until the beginning of autumn. The melon aphid lays its eggs on the weeds, which overwinter there.

To protect watermelons from aphids, it is advisable to regularly weed the beds from various weeds, as well as mow the areas located next to the grown watermelons. If you notice pests, immediately treat the plants with a special decoction or infusion prepared from celandine, garlic or onion peel. If these remedies do not help and the deciduous system of plants is badly damaged, then strong chemicals- for example, INTA-VIR, Karbofos, Iskra.

In addition to aphids, watermelons can be subject to various diseases, such as sclerotinia, bacteriosis, verdigris, various types of rot, and so on. For treatment, you need to prepare a decoction of horsetail. To do this, pour 1 liter of water 1 tbsp. l. plants and cook over low heat for 15 minutes. Alternatively, you can use another remedy - milk mixed with iodine. If the plants were severely affected, use Kuprosat or Oxychloride. The development of Fusarium wilt can cause the plant to die within a few days. The spread of the infection occurs through the remains of plants, seeds or soil.

As a prevention of watermelon from the occurrence of diseases, it is advisable to treat the seeds with a solution of "Bactofit" for 3 hours before planting. If some plants were nevertheless damaged by the disease, then they must be destroyed in order to protect healthy ones from infection, which, in turn, must be fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

Harvesting

Fruit picking is the final stage in the process of growing watermelons. It is not recommended to rush with this matter, because many fruits that have reached large sizes are still immature. ripe tomatoes can be determined by a change in the color of the fruit; when growing zucchini and cucumbers, it is important not to be late with the collection, otherwise the vegetables may lose their beneficial properties. But when should watermelons be harvested? Landing early maturing varieties You can get a harvest no earlier than mid-August. Mass collection during this period is not carried out, it is necessary to determine the ripeness of the berry by external signs. First of all, look at the bract and tendrils - if they are dry, then the watermelon can be harvested. Also, with a light tapping of the fingers on the berry, dull sounds should be heard. The combination of these signs indicates the ripeness of the fruit.

If you are growing watermelons for further transportation and storage, then it is better to pick the berries a couple of days before ripening. They will then ripen, being in a warm and dry room. At the same time, watermelons will not lose their qualities.

Video - Growing watermelon seedlings

Many believe that watermelons require very painstaking care and special conditions for cultivation. This is not entirely correct. Let us consider in detail how to grow a watermelon in your summer cottage.

How to plant watermelons: choose a place and prepare the soil

The place for planting watermelon should be on the south side, away from shrubs, trees and fences - this crop will not bear fruit growing in the shade.

Sandy soil is the most suitable option. It is very good if in the previous year tomatoes, cereals, corn or potatoes grew in this place.

As for the soil, it should be remembered here that the root system of a watermelon goes quite deep into the ground, so you need to make a large number of fertilizer organic origin into the soil before planting watermelon, namely:

• Humus (about 2-3 kg per plant),
• Neutral peat (about 7 kg per 1 sq.m).

Mineral fertilizers can also be used, the most commonly used are the following:

• Urea (30-40 gr per 1m2);
• Superphosphate (30 g per 1 m2);
• Potash fertilizers (20 gr per 1m2).

Exceeding the dosage of these substances will provoke an abundant growth of greenery to the detriment of the growth of the fetus, so the recommended amount should be strictly adhered to.

Choosing watermelon seeds

Watermelons are sorted into three types depending on the time of their ripening.

• Early ripe varieties, like Atlant, Au - producer, Borchansky, Borisfen, Gloria F1, Darunok, Crimson, Knyazhich, Ogonyok, Sugar baby, Royal, Tulip, Orbiy f1 (usually in the form of seedlings).
• Mid-season varieties: Astrakhan, Melitopol 60, New Year's, Ryasny, Snezhok, Sichelav, Tavriysky, Whole-leaved.
• Mid-late variety - Chill.

Before planting, the seeds are strongly recommended to warm up well. This can be done under artificial conditions: watermelon seeds are poured onto dry gauze and placed on a warm heating battery, for 4 hours the temperature should gradually rise from plus 15 to 50 degrees. Celsius. It is very important to constantly stir the seeds so that they warm up evenly.

Under natural conditions, you can warm up the seeds by laying them out in the open sun for 7-10 days.

Next, soak the watermelon seeds in a slightly warm solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes and rinse 3-4 times running water. Then the seeds are placed in gauze and left in a warm place where the temperature reaches plus 20-30 degrees. Celsius. We are waiting for the first seeds to hatch.

How to plant a watermelon

Growing watermelon in open field.

It is worth sowing watermelon seeds in open ground when 10% of total number seeds will hatch.

Do not rush too much, it is very important that the soil on the site also warms up to plus 12-14 degrees. Celsius at a depth of 10 cm (usually, this is mid-April - May).

If the seeds still fall into the soil, which has not yet been warmed up properly, they easily lose their germination.

Growing, watermelons form whip-stems from one to 2 meters long, so they should be planted at an appropriate distance from each other. And in the rows, indent 60-80 cm, respectively.

If the soil is very dry, before planting, pour 2 liters of water into each hole (10-12 cm), then lightly sprinkle the hole with earth so that its depth reaches only 4 cm.

So we planted watermelons. It is very important to put "beacons" in the form of sticks that mark the rows, so that long before the first shoots appear, you can cultivate the land and engage in weeding.

During the period of abundant foliage growth, it is necessary to feed the watermelons. For 10 sq m you will need the following solution:

• 10 liters of water
• Ammonium nitrate or carbamide - 150 gr,
• Superphosphate granulated - 60 gr,
• Potassium salt - 50 gr.

Top dressing should be done immediately after the rains.

• Refuse fertilizers during the ripening period of fruits to protect them from cracking and deterioration in transportability.
• If you want to speed up the ripening process and increase the yield, try covering the planted watermelons with agrofibre, and then make holes for the germinated seeds. The agrofibre is left on the surface of the earth until the end of the growing season of the plant, then it is carefully removed.
• Watermelons should be watered strictly 1 time in 7 days, so as not to provoke the formation of rot.
• Yellowed parts of the plant should be removed in a timely manner.

An alternative way to grow watermelons

It also happens that the climatic conditions and the area of ​​​​dacha beds do not give us the opportunity to grow watermelon without pre-training.

When to plant watermelon seedlings?

You can plant watermelons for seedlings, and after 20 days plant them in a greenhouse or open ground.

It is worth remembering that all pumpkin plants do not tolerate transplanting, so they should be planted in fairly large containers so that they can be transplanted along with a lot of land.

So, pots of 8 * 8 * 8 cm in size and other containers at hand are quite suitable for seedlings.

We are preparing a universal mixture for planting. We mix humus, peat and sod land. Further, in the resulting mixture, based on 10 kg of the mixture, add 300 g of superphosphate and 100 g wood ash. We divide the mixture into pots and water it 3 days before planting the seeds.

Watermelons should be planted for seedlings at the end of April, in which case after 20-25 days they will be ready for transplanting into a greenhouse or open ground.

We try to keep the soil temperature in pots at least 15 degrees, it also requires good lighting, about 15 hours a day.

Watering is done at the request of the plant - when the soil is almost dry, otherwise there is a possibility that the seedlings will deteriorate due to high humidity and the development of a black leg.

Feeding seedlings in pots

For 10 liters of water you will need:

• Ammonium nitrate - 20 gr,
• Superphosphate - 35 gr,
• Sulfate or potassium chloride - 30 gr.

Top dressing is done 3-4 days before planting watermelons in the ground, we spend 1 glass of fertilizer (250 ml) for each pot.

When the average daily air temperature has reached 11-12 degrees, we transplant watermelons into a greenhouse or open ground.

• Carefully loosen the soil before planting.
• Distance between seedlings in rows - 30-40cm, between rows - 60-70cm.
• It is advisable to plant watermelons in the evening so that they do not dry out.
• The wells are pre-watered.
• After planting, it is recommended to tightly close the greenhouse, thereby increasing the chance of a good survival of seedlings.
• If you planted watermelons in open ground, you can create a greenhouse effect using improvised means - cut a plastic bottle in half and cover 1 seedling with each of the parts.
• During the first week, you have to water the seedlings every other day, pouring 0.5 liters of water under each plant. If it is very hot outside, try to water the watermelons daily.
• After 7-10 days, watermelons begin to grow rapidly, it's time to feed and reduce the amount of watering - 1-2 times a week is enough.
• Try to get rid of the yellowed parts of the plant in a timely manner.

Care of the ripe crop

Harvest begins to ripen in August. It is very important to turn watermelons once a week. bottom side towards the sun - so they will ripen evenly.

If the weather is wet, try to put small boards under the watermelons so that the crop does not start to rot.

Stop watering the plants only 3-4 days before the expected harvest. The opinion that watermelons will be tasteless from excess moisture is a fiction. For a watermelon to be truly tasty and ripe, it needs a lot of sun and water!

Outcome

Perhaps we have considered all the main points that you should be aware of when growing watermelons in your country house. Your work will certainly be rewarded, and you will certainly receive good harvest watermelons!

11.04.2017 19 855

How to grow a watermelon and not be left without a crop - we share tricks!

When planning to cultivate melon, many summer residents are wondering how to grow watermelon so that it is sweet and tasty. There are many questions, so you definitely need to understand all the points: find out which variety is better to plant, what time to plant, how to care for, water, what to fertilize, when and how to pinch watermelons, and most importantly - when to collect from the garden? In order not to miss anything, read the article in full ...

Sweet watermelon - choosing the best varieties

Summer gives us a lot of positive emotions and memories, it is during this period that the largest crop flow of the year falls. An integral attribute of the summer period is a large ripe watermelon. The only question is how to break this “watermelon tradition” and harvest a generous harvest according to the season.

In order for a watermelon to grow tasty, large and healthy, you need to strictly follow the rules for its cultivation and provide conditions conducive to this. Each region has its own unique climatic features, on which the cultivation of watermelon directly depends. So, before planting a watermelon, it is important to choose the right variety:

Watermelon Spark- This is a kind of sweet watermelon that can be found in almost every garden. The reason for this popularity is its relative resistance to cold. On average, the weight of the fruit balances at the level of 2.5 kg, the pulp at proper care, soft and sweet, bright red color (depends on watering and fertilizers). Under film shelters and in a greenhouse, it can be grown in the Non-Black Earth Region, on the territory of Siberia, the Urals, and Far East;

watermelon varieties of light in the context - in the photo
watermelon variety spark - in the photo

Crimson Suite- a variety that is famous for its taste, color saturation. Such a watermelon endures transportation and viruses, keeping the fruit sweet and healthy. Early ripe variety (73-85 days), good fruits can be obtained in hot summer conditions;

watermelon variety Crimson Sweet - on the photo

Charleston gray- watermelons of this variety obviously did not originate from our region, however, they took root perfectly. The oval fruit and yellow-green color of the peel hide in themselves great taste and aroma. How long the Charleston Gray watermelon ripens depends on the growing environment, but the average is up to 100 days. The color of the fruit is red, of medium saturation, and the pulp itself is soft and juicy. The variety was discovered by French specialists and is successfully grown all over the world;

watermelon variety Charleston gray - on the photo

Chill- is familiar to us as a small dark green fruit with pinkish-red flesh. The mass of watermelon is up to 5 kg, it is distinguished by transportability and cold resistance. The number of seeds is small, brown in color, the taste is delicately sweet. Refers to a subspecies of medium ripeness;

watermelon variety Kholodok - on the photo

sugar baby- it is not uncommon to find such watermelons in the areas of summer residents. The round fruit reaches up to 4 kg by weight, has a dark green skin color without a pattern. The pulp is very tasty and rich, has a bright red color. Seeds are large enough great option for seedlings. The fruit of the sugar baby is great for salting, if you suddenly want to cook canned watermelons;

watermelon variety Sugar baby in the context - on the photo
watermelon varieties Sugar baby - in the photo

The gift of the sun- just the variety that, by its name, already has sympathy for itself. The round fruit has the best taste and attractive appearance. The color of the peel is yellow, the thickness is medium. This type matures already on the 65th day of its vegetation and reaches 4 kg;

watermelon variety Gift of the sun - on the photo
watermelon varieties Gift of the sun in the context - in the photo

Watermelon "Gift of the Sun" - on the photo

Watermelon Astrakhan- another representative of the striped melon on summer cottages. Oval-round shape, very sweet and tasty, with red flesh inside. The weight of one fruit, subject to the cultivation techniques, can reach 8-10 kg;

watermelon variety Astrakhan - on the photo
watermelon Astrakhan - on the photo

Lunar- for a snack, we offer a variety of watermelon known recently, which is distinguished by its excellent presentation and excellent taste. The outer color is pronounced in the form of black and green stripes. The shape of the fetus is standard, but the most interesting thing is inside. The color of the pulp is saturated yellow color, which is a huge rarity among subspecies. Yellow watermelon is not to everyone's taste, but you might like its taste. The number of seeds is minimal, and the total weight of the fruit reaches an average of 3.5 kg.

watermelon Lunar - on the photo
watermelon variety Lunny - on the photo

watermelon variety Lunny in the context - on the photo

Technology of growing watermelons

In order for a watermelon bush to provide a good harvest, you need to know the basic rules and procedures for cultivation. First of all, one should take into account the climatic features of the region and the condition of the soil.

In April or May, you can start planting watermelons for seedlings, taking into account the varietal characteristics, namely the growing season. If the period is short, plant later, a long growing period - we plant watermelon seedlings early. Now you need to soak the watermelon seeds in a damp cloth, put them in a warm place, and wait until they peck.

Very often summer residents and gardeners complain that watermelon seeds do not germinate, do not hatch, what should I do? This problem can be solved if any stimulant (Energen, Heteroauxin, etc.) is added to the water according to the instructions to help the seeds hatch.

germination of watermelon seeds - in the photo

Some summer residents use plastic cups, put cotton pads (a couple of pieces) on the bottom, soak them well with water and a stimulant, and lay seeds on top. Close with a plastic bag and put on the battery. In such conditions, according to experienced gardeners, watermelon seeds germinate in just two days. In the same way, it is better to germinate seedless watermelons, after washing off the protective shell from the seeds (rub a little with a sponge).

The hatched seeds should be planted in pots, planting to a depth of 3-4 cm. Do not forget to moisten the substrate, after which cover the plantings plastic wrap and clean in a warm place with a temperature of +20 ° С ... + 23 ° С. It is very important to maintain the temperature within the permitted range so that the seedlings sprout together and quickly. The film is removed when the cotyledons of the sprouts are fully opened and then the temperature is reduced to +18 ° C.

Care in detail - pinching watermelons, watering, feeding

Transplanting watermelon seedlings into open ground or a greenhouse is carried out when the plants are 25-30 days old, and cultivation conditions in open ground are suitable for good growth melons. It means that:

• the soil warms up to at least +15 ° С;
• there is no threat of frost.

In open ground, it is advisable to cover the melon with covering material at night, if you grow watermelons in the Moscow region, Leningrad region, in the Urals and in Siberia, since frosts can be even before June 10. When placing plants in the garden, remember that the density is no more than 3 plantings per 1 square meter. m.

Fresh manure is not brought into the beds, but rotted manure is possible, you just need to dig a hole deeper, lay it on the very bottom, sprinkle it with earth on top, and then plant the seedlings. Instead of rotted manure, you can use straw and dry leaves spilled by Baikal - you will get a good hole for a watermelon, the straw will start to rot, and the melon will grow.

caring for watermelons - in the photo

Watermelon cultivation technology provides frequent watering in the early stages of development. When the watermelon bush begins to bloom, the intensity of watering should be significantly reduced. Watering at any stage of growth should be moderate, and the earth should be kept loose.

During the period of flowering and fertilization, plantings can be fertilized. Top dressing is carried out after watering. To feed watermelons, you can use mineral complexes or self-prepared organic fertilizers. Also summer residents use Baikal, potassium humate and other drugs. It is worth noting, do not overdo it with fertilizers, otherwise the lashes will grow, not the fruits. Focus on the condition of the plants: pale and skinny - feed, healthy and green - do not touch. When the fruits are tied, stop feeding! (you don't want to get a bunch of haulm, do you?)

Experienced summer residents who have been growing melons for more than a year give a lot of recommendations to get good fruits, not small balls. The formation of watermelons can be done different ways, but, most importantly, choose the one that suits your region and is easy to care for.

pinching a watermelon - in the photo

If you live in the northern regions, it is advisable to leave 5-8 fruits on the plant and pinch the lashes so that the watermelons ripen in a short and not always hot summer. In southern latitudes, more fruits can be left due to climatic conditions. When pinching, leave 10-15 cm of the whip above the fruit. Pinching is carried out when the watermelons reach the size of an average apple.

Water melons grow when watered often and plentifully, sweet ones turn out - if there is a lot of sun and heat. In general, watermelon loves a temperature of at least +20 ° C. To create more warmth for melons, lay out plastic bottles with water next to the fruits. The bottles will heat up and give off heat to the watermelons.

Watermelon ripening time - when to harvest from the garden?

The time it takes to reach maturity is determined solely by the characteristics of the variety itself. Basically, the duration of the growing season lasts at least 65 days. Accuracy is absolutely not characteristic of nature, therefore, guided by standards, you should independently conduct analytics. The main signs of fruit ripeness:

• The tendrils near the fruits withered;
• With a slight squeezing of the fruit, the peel gives a signal of ripeness as a crackle;
• When tapped on the peel, the fruit makes a dull and deep sound;
• The fetus springs with pressing movements.

The fruits should be harvested as they ripen, carefully plucking along with the footboard. To do this, it is desirable to choose a dry warm day. As a rule, September is considered to be the period of mass harvesting, until the rains and colds begin. Storage of fruits involves the preservation of watermelon in rooms with a temperature of 6-8 ° C. It is advisable to place the crop in special vegetable stores with a dry floor.

Now you know, dear readers how to grow a watermelon and always be with a crop, regardless of climatic conditions. Have a good harvest!

Growing watermelon - video

If you have long dreamed of growing watermelons on your own in a country house or garden in the open field, but did not know where to start, then this article should definitely help you! A minimum of rules and a little patience - and the work will be rewarded!

The content of the article:

A lot has been said about: sweet juicy fruits are indicated for diseases of the heart and blood vessels, kidneys, liver, salt metabolism disorders, obesity and many other ailments. It is the richest source of potassium, magnesium, iron, folic acid, vitamins, acids and pectins. However, many are simply afraid to buy watermelons for fear of being poisoned by them. It's no secret to anyone that unscrupulous entrepreneurs growers increase the dose of pesticides and fertilizers in order to get a higher yield. Naturally, natural is much healthier and safer for our health.

Watermelons are very demanding on heat and light; it is not for nothing that they are considered one of the most heat-loving crops. Seeds will germinate at a temperature of at least 15 degrees, and temperature norm for flowering, a value from plus 18 to 20 ° C (in the morning) and up to 25 degrees - in the daytime will be considered. As soon as the daytime temperature drops below 20 ° C, plant growth will slow down. Choose seeds that are not early maturing, but also not characterized by long maturation. Many summer residents praise the varieties of watermelons Ogonyok and Sugar Baby. They differ from other varieties of watermelons with an average size of 4–6 kg and a dark green color without clearly defined lines, the flesh is dark red, and the stones are black.

Watermelon is drought-resistant due to its well-developed, powerful root system, but at the same time it does not tolerate shading.

Growing watermelons: what soils are suitable

For growing watermelon, sandy loamy soils are suitable, warming up in the sun and protected from strong winds. Absolutely unsuitable is too moist land, with a heavy mechanical composition and characterized by being near groundwater. The best option is neutral or alkaline soil, but not sour, where very small fruits will grow, which will have time to crack while still green. Change planting sites every year - this is good for the soil: on next year instead of watermelons, it is better to plant corn or wheat.

Before planting, the seeds should be soaked in water at a temperature of 50 ° C until they peck. After that, they are sown in open ground at a soil temperature of 12 to 14 ° C (end of the first decade of May). By the time of germination, it will already warm up to 18 ° C.
The first shoots will appear after 8-10 days, which will be considered the norm. If the ground is still cold, then the germination time increases, and the seedlings may simply die. This can also lead to the development of pathogenic flora in seedlings, which will further adversely affect their development during the growing season.

Hence the conclusion: with unsuitable natural conditions the sowing date of seeds is transferred to the third decade of May.

Each hole should be filled with ash (1 tablespoon) mixed with earth, humus and nitroammophos (1 teaspoon). In the future, this will increase yields by about 20%. The seeding depth is 5-8 cm. After sowing, mulch the soil surface with humus so that a crust does not appear, which can harm the seedlings when they emerge to the surface.

To accelerate the growth of watermelon, various shelters are used: from simple individual ones to group film ones. At the same time, even simple shelters film increase the temperature, thereby accelerating ripening by two to three weeks. In addition, with the help of such devices, you will protect plants from pests such as bugs.

You can arrange tunnel shelters with frames made of vines or wire rod. They are removed, as a rule, in early June, on a cloudy day, so that the plants cannot “burn out” under the scorching sun. Otherwise, they will weaken or become a source of infection for mass melons.

As for pollination, when grown under a film, it is carried out manually. To attract bees next to watermelons, you can plant honey plants or spray melons with a weak solution of honey or sugar.

During the cultivation of watermelons under the film, they are watered as they dry. After removing the shelters, watering should be stopped. In open ground, watering stops with the beginning of fruit set.

AT further care comes down to breaking through seedlings, loosening, weeding the soil, destroying weeds and top dressing. Don't let it thicken! Melons are very light-loving, so if you want to grow a large and sweet watermelon in the open field - remember that only one plant should remain in the hole - try to keep 1 sq. meter had no more than three landings.

Very often, watermelons in stores and markets have dubious taste, giving customers a lot of disappointment from the dissonance of expectations and reality. And melons do not always meet the requirements of environmental safety, especially if they were purchased at the ruins along the highways, from cars in the yards or in other unauthorized places of trade. Your favorite berry can turn out to be either simply tasteless - watery and fresh, or with a rotten middle or stuffed with nitrates with a characteristic “chemical” tinge in taste and a suspiciously smooth cut. Therefore, many summer residents and gardeners are trying to grow this crop on their site.

In modern melon growing, a variety of methods for breeding watermelons are used. They are cultivated in greenhouses, bioheated deep greenhouses, film tunnels and open way without the use of protective structures. But it is the berries that have grown "in the wild", and not in shelters, and properly saturated with the energy of the sun, that turn out to be the most delicious, have a sweet, fragrant, melting pulp in your mouth. Let's find out what you need to know about growing watermelon in the open field in order to avoid mistakes and vain work, and which varieties are guaranteed to please with a stable harvest of delicious berries.

Features of the process in different regions

For a long time, the cultivation of watermelons remained the privilege of the southern regions with a hot climate, but thanks to the efforts of breeders, the situation has changed. Scientists have improved many valuable forms of table watermelon, brought out early and hybrid varieties adapted to various climatic conditions, among which there are hybrids available for cultivation in any area.

Therefore, the Russian south has ceased to be the only place where it is possible to cultivate watermelons. The geography of growing the largest berry has expanded to the Urals, the northwestern regions - Siberia and Altai, the Moscow region and the regions of the Central Federal District, Central Black Earth and Volga-Vyatka regions.

If you are going to engage in melon growing in the conditions of a short and sometimes changeable summer with a predominance of cloudy days, as in the north of Russia, you should not count on a crop of large watermelons weighing 10-20 kg. The fruits simply do not have enough time for full ripening in a short summer season.

Having managed to form thick, strong lashes with flowering shoots, gourds will stop growing and developing during the autumn decline temperature indicators. After the transition of the average daily temperature through the mark of 13-15°C and reduction daylight hours before 12-14 hours they die.

The success of growing watermelons in conditions very different from those at home, in which heat-loving plants feel comfortable, depends on several factors.

• Knowledge and adherence to the nuances of agricultural technology. Watermelon, like melon, loves warmth. But for seeds to sprout, t 14-16 ° C is enough, while this is not enough for the roots. To activate the growth of the root system, a temperature of at least 23 ° C is needed. And in the phase of bud formation and during flowering, the thermometer should stay at 18-20 ° C even at night.

• The right choice of landing method. Cultivation of gourds in an open way in areas with unstable weather and short summers implies the preparation of warm high beds. Under the protection of greenhouses and tunnels, plants also have time to fully mature, without experiencing stress from exposure to negative temperatures. When using mid-early varieties, it is advisable to resort to the seedling method of growing gourds.
• Competent selection of varieties of watermelon taking into account the climatic features of a particular area and the experience of the farmer.

Choice of variety and location

Today's varietal diversity of popular gourds includes over 200 items. When choosing a variety are guided by several criteria.

Origin

To make it easier to navigate in such a variety of forms, they were systematized into 10 groups in accordance with a geographical feature, highlighting:

• Russian;
• Western European;
• small, medium and East Asian;
• Transcaucasian;
• Far East;
• American;
• Indian;
• afghan group.

In our latitudes, amateur growers are usually engaged in the cultivation of varieties united in the Russian, sometimes in the Central Asian or Transcaucasian group. The advantage of these forms of watermelon is high environmental sustainability, characterized by the ability to withstand the influence of stress factors. environment while maintaining productivity.

Many experienced melon growers prefer to deal with imported hybrids, which is quite understandable. Indeed, for many foreign breeders, the priority is to improve the external features and taste of fruits. The main advantages of foreign hybrid varieties are high marketability and resistance to infections. Their minus is the increased requirements for the diet, so you have to take care of them much more carefully than domestic ones.

Therefore, for those who have just begun to master the wisdom of melon growing, it is better to abandon such options in favor of our F1 varieties.

Vegetation time

In areas of the non-chernozem zone with a temperate cool climate, the best productivity is shown by the cultivation of early and ultra-ripening varieties with an early ripening period (up to 80 days).

It is important to remember that there is no point in acquiring large-fruited varieties, because in such conditions they do not have time to ripen.

In regions where summer pleases with a large number of warm sunny days, it is already possible to safely deal with medium or late-ripening varieties or hybrids with a ripening period of 80-95 days.

Cold and drought tolerance

For cultivation in Siberia or the middle lane, it is required that the variety be resistant to negative temperatures and withstand return frosts. Accordingly, when watermelons are cultivated in the Central Chernozem region, especially in its southeastern part, where the climate is drier than in the western one, the ability of the variety to tolerate drought becomes of fundamental importance.

Sugar content

Representatives of early ripening varieties have a higher sugar content compared to varieties of medium and late deadline vegetation.

Popular varieties

The following selection presents the most popular varieties of table watermelon for outdoor cultivation.

Among them there are both classic varieties that have repeatedly proven their viability in practice, as well as several new ones that have already managed to earn the trust of melon growers.

• "Siberian". The interest of summer residents in this ultra-early variety is due to resistance to weather disasters, unpretentiousness, excellent immunity and very high taste. Fruits with intense red tender flesh under a thin peel have an unusually sweet taste and can compete with Astrakhan watermelons.

• "Delicacy F1". One of the new high-yielding hybrids of wide elliptical form with medium greenish, dissected leaf blades, thin skin and pulp of rich scarlet color, medium-dense consistency. Pumpkins with narrow stripes, colored much darker than the light green background. Fruits on average weigh 3.5-4 kg. Productivity - up to 5 kg / m2. With poor transportability, the variety has high drought resistance.

• "Sugar Lightning F1". Ultra-early cold-resistant form, recommended for cultivation in the middle zone. Taste qualities are beyond praise and fully correspond to the name of the variety. Fruits with fragrant scarlet pulp will delight you with a sugary-sweet honey taste. The color is uniform, dense green without a characteristic striped pattern. Leaf blades are miniature, strongly dissected. The ripening period is 65 days from germination to the first harvest of fruits.

• Charleston Grey. One of original varieties with oblong elongated cylindrical fruits of light green uniform color without a striped pattern. Ukrainian breeders were engaged in its breeding. Berries are famous for their wonderful taste of sugary red or pink pulp, very delicate in texture. Due to the light color of the smooth crust, they do not heat up in the heat, so they not only relieve thirst, but also have an excellent tonic effect. The presence of a hard peel allows the fruits to easily endure long-distance transportation. Watermelons of this variety can increase their mass in the range of 13-18 kg. Technical ripeness occurs after 70-95 days from the moment of germination.

• "Delight". Vegetation terms - 85-95 days. Plants of this variety are characterized by the formation of long lashes with strongly dissected leaves and large spherical fruits. Commodity pumpkins weigh an average of 7-9 kg. They are painted in dense green color and covered with a pattern of prickly stripes even more dark shade than background. The red fine-grained juicy pulp contains a large amount of solids (11-13%) and natural sugar (9-10.5%). "Vostorg" attracts buyers with high taste qualities, beautiful shade peel and versatility of application. The fruits are consumed fresh, salted, canned, squeezed out of them juice and prepare a delicious nardek. The variety is distinguished by high transportability and complex disease resistance.

• "Striped torpedo F1". in demand hybrid variety with a "talking" name. The duration of the growing season is 84-92 days. When grown in open ground, the fruits on average increase their weight by 6 kg, the record figures are 11 kg. Plants form many branched shoots with a long main stem. Berries have a high sugar content - about 7-9%. The variety is characterized by a long return of the crop, the resistance of the bushes to the defeat of Fusarium wilt and anthracnose. The root system of the hybrid withstands high temperatures and low humidity. On rainfed crops, the yield is 17-22 kg/10 m2.

• Melania F1. Dutch hybrid variety with high commercial qualities, excellent taste, resistant to heat and cold. Suitable for growing in areas with any climatic conditions. The fruits are elliptical in shape, with a smooth surface and a pattern of dark green blurred wide stripes. The crust has an average thickness, the pulp of a medium-dense consistency is colored in rich red. Technical ripeness occurs in 80-105 days. The berries tolerate transportation over long distances well and have good keeping quality.

• Bykovsky 22. The variety is characterized by good transportability, drought resistance, high marketability of fruits with excellent taste. Watermelons are intended for fresh consumption. Spherical fruits with a smooth surface have a whitish or greenish color and a pattern of green narrow spiny stripes. pulp color pink, with a grainy texture and juicy taste. Ripening terms - 91-104 days. Average weight marketable fruit 4.5 kg.

• "Bush 334". A distinctive feature of representatives of a common large-fruited variety is the limited growth of lashes. Compared to watermelons that produce long shoots, bush plants tend to form 4-5 lashes, reaching a length of only 70-80 cm. Such a compact melon plantation saves space in the beds, which is especially appreciated by owners of modest plots. On each lash, only one berry is formed with a strong crust and pink granular flesh of a dense consistency. Commercial fruits weigh 6-8 kg, tolerate long-term transportation well, have high keeping quality (up to 3 months) and resistance to most diseases.

How to choose a place for melon?

The cultivated watermelon inherited from its small wild relatives and the common ancestor of the African melon a love for the bright sun during the daytime and warmth at night. Therefore, it is necessary that the place where it is planned to break the beds is well lit by the sun and protected from strong winds.

It is optimal when the landing site is oriented to the south or southeast.

Scattered shrubs or trees with a lush crown should not grow nearby, limiting the access of the sun to plantings. In cloudy weather and lack of sun, the rate of photosynthesis slows down, the fruits accumulate less natural sugar and dry matter.

This melon culture tends to form a powerful root system, consisting of the main root and lateral roots, which, in turn, form numerous roots of higher orders. Ideally, the location of groundwater in the planting area should be as far as possible from the soil surface, which avoids waterlogging of the beds and rotting of the roots.

It is equally important to observe the rules of crop rotation when cultivating watermelon. The best predecessors for it include representatives of the legume, umbrella and cabbage (cruciferous) families. The worst former "owner" of the beds is the closest relative of the pumpkin, which has common pests with watermelon.

It is desirable to allocate a large landing area for melons, so as not to limit the freedom of growth of thin creeping lashes.

Training

Although watermelon is a crop that is insensitive to the level of soil acidity, however, the best productivity is shown by its cultivation in fertile soils with a high content of easily digestible nutrients. Values pH should vary within 6.5-7 units. It grows well in light, loose sandy soil with high air permeability and rapid warming up or sandy loamy soil containing up to 90% sand.

How to prepare the soil?

The earth needs to be enriched with organic matter. For this purpose, it will be necessary to carry out autumn tillage by digging, followed by leveling the earth with a rake, after removing the remains of the green mass of the predecessor plant. With the advent of spring, beds are broken up and semi-rotted manure or compost is applied as an organic fertilizer.

Mineral fertilizers are applied on the basis of:

• ammonium sulfate 20-30 g/m2;
• superphosphate - 34-40 g / m2;
• potassium salt - 10-20 g / m2.

When grown under film coated prepared beds are covered with polyethylene or non-woven material.

seed

Compared to other melon crops, watermelon seeds are the most difficult to germinate. Pre-sowing preparation increases the chances of getting friendly and strong seedlings.

It is carried out through several techniques.

• Mechanical calibration of seed according to size. The separation of large seeds from smaller ones and their sowing in separate containers according to the caliber ensures the production of friendly seedlings with equally developed seedlings.

• Sorting seeds according to density. Immersion of seed material in water brine contributes to the identification of light specimens unsuitable for sowing. Floating seeds are discarded, and seedlings are grown from heavier, sunken seeds.
• Disinfection. For disinfection, the seeds are kept in a weak 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate for 15-20 minutes, and then dried naturally. For the same purpose, the seed is heated in the sun for a week or using thermostats or dryers for 3-4 hours, at t up to 60 ° C.
• Soaking and germination. The presence of a thick leathery protective shell in seeds significantly slows down the emergence of sprouts. Therefore, they are wrapped in a piece of dense matter and soaked in a container of water at t 22-25 ° C for 24 hours. After that, the seeds are laid out on a damp cloth, leaving to swell until the roots appear.

• Heat treatment. The seed is heated in a vessel with water t 45-50°C for half an hour. Exposure to elevated temperature accelerates all biochemical processes in the seeds, as a result of which they will germinate much more actively.
• Scarification. This procedure is advisable to carry out when growing melons in the areas of the middle zone. Its essence boils down to damage to the protective shells of seeds on sandpaper for accelerated germination.

How to prepare seedlings?

In the open field, watermelons are cultivated through seedlings or seedless method. At dachas in the Central Black Earth region, Krasnodar Territory, the lower reaches of the Volga, seeds can be sown directly into the soil. Suitable for non-chernozem regions only seedling method cultivation of gourds.

• A favorable time for sowing seeds is April-May. It is advisable to prepare potted seedlings 3-4 weeks before planting.
• To prepare a nutritious soil mixture, soddy soil, peat and humus are taken in a ratio of 1: 1: 1. Sandy soil is mixed with 10% mullein.
• The optimal size of seedling pots is 10-12 cm in diameter, which allows the roots to develop freely. Watermelon is contraindicated in damage to the root system. The containers are filled with soil mixture and the seeds are deepened by 3-4 cm.
• Until the sprouts appear, it is important to maintain in the place where the seedlings stand, t 22-25 ° C during the daytime, and make sure that at night the thermometer does not fall below 17 ° C. Otherwise, the seeds may stretch out the hypocotyl knee.

• As soon as sprouts appear, t should be reduced by 4-6 ° C and the seedlings should be left for a couple of days to get used to such conditions. After a week and a half, they must be fed with a solution of mullein or chicken manure in a ratio of 1: 10, mixed with superphosphate diluted in water at the rate of 2-3 g of fat per liter.
• When watering seedlings, avoid getting water on the leaves. It is not necessary to pinch the seedlings. Watering is carried out as needed, avoiding excessive waterlogging of the earth.
• Before planting in the soil, seedlings are accustomed to staying on outdoors. To harden young plants, seedling containers are placed in a sufficiently lit, warmed up and reliably protected from the wind place on the site.

The readiness of sprouts for planting in open ground is evidenced by the formation of at least three true leaves.

How to plant?

Seedlings are transplanted into open ground, starting from the last days of May and until the end of the first decade of June. In the holes, it is permissible to plant both one by one and a pair of seedlings. When planting in pairs, the processes unfold in different sides to prevent chaotic weaving of side shoots in the future. This culture is characterized by the continuous growth of lashes that can stretch 5-7 meters.

The order of transplant work

• Dig two rows of holes, adhering to a checkerboard pattern. The minimum distance between rows is 50 cm, between seats- 1-1.4 m.
• Compost is poured into the pits of 1.5-2 kg each and spilled with water. Consumption rate - 2 liters per seat.
• The sprouts are removed from the seedling container while preserving the earthen clod and placed in holes, deepening them to the cotyledons.
• It remains to sprinkle the ground around the plants with a thin layer of sand in order to prevent the development of the black leg, a dangerous fungal disease that causes rotting of the plantings.

With a seedless method of growing gourds, seeds are sown in the ground warmed up to t 13-14 ° C. Sowing material of large-fruited varieties is deepened by 7-9 cm, and small-fruited varieties - by 5-6 cm.

There are several ways of sowing - in rows, squares, rectangular and square-nested, tape, which explains the variety of planting patterns. Most often, gourds in the garden are sown in rows. In this case, the width between the rows can vary between 1.5-2.7 m, and the distance between the holes in the rows can be from 50 cm to 2 meters, depending on the size of the fruit of a particular variety.

Work order

• Dig the required number of holes and moisten with water.
• The holes are filled with soil mixture: ash + humus + earth in equal parts + nitroammofoska 5 g. The consumption rate of the soil mixture is 15 g for each seat. They level it with a hoe and water it.
• Seeds are laid, deepening them by 5-8 cm. At least five seeds are placed in one hole, and after a while, when they sprout, one largest seedling is left.
• Crops are sprinkled with a thin layer of humus to avoid the formation of a crust that can damage the delicate sprouts that make their way out of the ground.
• Lightly tamp the soil to protect the seeds from wind and bird dispersal.

How to properly care?

In order to grow strong and healthy watermelons outdoors, you need to provide them with appropriate care at all stages of development from germination to fruit formation.

Unforeseen spring frosts- a fairly common phenomenon in areas with a temperate climate, giving summer residents a lot of problems. Therefore, it is better not to take risks and for the first time to build a shelter made of arcs and polyethylene in the garden with young seedlings or nonwoven fabric. When the first peduncles appear, the protection is removed to avoid damage to the plants in the phase of active formation of lashes.

Another option for effective double protection of crops in open ground during frosts in cold climatic zones is the use of multilayer plastic caps. To do this, cut off the lower part of liter PET bottles, and then cover each sprout with them. After that, the caps are closed with PET canisters with a volume of 5-6 liters, having previously cut off their bottom. Under the protection of plastic "matryoshkas", delicate stems are not afraid of cold, wind and aggressive sun, while inside it is light, warm and air circulates freely.

Watermelons are picky about soil moisture. They, like other melons, require watering throughout the entire period of growth and development. The lower threshold of soil moisture for them is 75-80%. To obtain fruits with high palatability at the ripening stage, the frequency of irrigation is reduced to reduce soil moisture by 5-10%.

In areas with sandy or sandy loam soils that have poor water holding capacity, the frequency of watering should be higher at lower water rates. In dachas and gardens with clay or loamy soils, plantings should be watered, on the contrary, less often, but plentifully.

Transplanted sprouts will need to be shaded and used for irrigation with warm water t 21-25 ° C for several days. If the weather is dry and hot, then seedling irrigation should be rare and plentiful. Daily rate water consumption for young seedlings is 0.2 liters.

The optimal mode of watering adult plants is one or two approaches every week, depending on weather conditions. Until flowering begins, watering should be moderate, while at the fruiting stage, irrigation is carried out with already increased rates. To increase the sugar content of fruits, plantings stop watering at the end of the growing season.

The water temperature must be at least 19-20°C. Usage cold water unacceptable, because it inhibits the development of plants and makes them vulnerable to the black leg. Irrigation is desirable to do in the morning. So the soil has time to warm up before night. AT hot weather plantings are watered in the evening.

For the first time, the beds are loosened at the end of the transplantation of plants into open ground. At the same time, the depth of loosening should not exceed 4-6 cm. Then the ground is loosened after rains and each irrigation until the plants begin to close with each other. As necessary, loosening is combined with weeding the ridges. Weeds are immediately disposed of as they are one of the main sources of infection.

During the season, watermelons will need to be fed three times. A week after planting the seedlings, a nutrient solution is used to fertilize the plants.

To prepare it, dilute in 20 liters of water:

• ammonium sulphate 64-70 g;
• double superphosphate 80-100 g;
• potassium salt 30-36 g.

When lashes begin to actively form on the melon, a second top dressing is performed. During this period, it is good to fertilize the plants with organic matter in combination with mineral fertilizers. For this purpose, infusion is used cow dung, for which the rotted mullein is diluted with water in proportions of 1: 10. Superphosphate and potassium salt are added to it at the rate of 2 g and 1 g of fertilizer per liter of infusion. Plants are watered between rows.

The appearance of the first ovaries is a signal for the third feeding.

This time, the dosage of fertilizer per 20 liters of water should be as follows:

• ammonium sulphate 48 g;
• superphosphate 20 g;
• potassium salt 70 g.

Application rate - 2 liters per bush. Instead of watering the holes, you can shed the furrows with a solution, which are carried out in advance, stepping back from the bushes 20-25 cm.

Growing side shoots should be periodically distributed over the garden. To avoid damage to too long branched lashes by the wind, they are tied to supports or sprinkled with moist soil.

When three or four apricot-sized pumpkins are formed on the central lashes, all other ovaries are disposed of by cutting them out with a sharp knife. For processing sections, powder from charcoal. After that, the tops of the lashes are pinched, followed by the removal of female flowers.

The latter method is the most popular, as it guarantees almost 100% survival, so it is the best suited for beginner melon growers.

To do this, choose a stock and a scion that have a couple of real leaves. On the axial part of the shoots of pumpkin and watermelon, oblique cuts are made ¾ deep from the thickness of the stems and 0.5-0.6 cm long. The stems are cut so that the watermelon axial part enters from above into the axial part of the pumpkin. To increase the contact area, the stems are notched at an angle of 30°.

Carefully connect the plants with incisions like a "castle". To fix the grafting site, a grafting clip or food foil is used. Seedlings connected to each other are planted in one large container of 0.5-0.7 liters and placed in a well-lit place.

After 4-5 days, the watermelon stem is pinched below the place where the vaccination was made, so that the watermelon begins to receive nutrients from the roots of lagenaria. After another 4-5 days, the watermelon stem and the top of the pumpkin are removed.

You can transplant seedlings into open ground after a week, subject to good weather. When there is no film shelter on the beds, they are transplanted in May.

When do they ripen?

If you grow watermelons in open ground using a seedless method, then the seeds germinate after sowing for 8-10 days. And if you germinate the seeds and grow potted seedlings from them, then the appearance of sprouts can be expected a couple of days earlier. Rapid germination is facilitated by compliance with the temperature, light and humidity conditions in the room where the seedlings are standing.

How long a gourd culture grows in open ground from the formation of flowers and ovaries to the onset of technical ripeness directly depends on which variety of seed was used. In early forms, the duration of the growing season can vary between 65-70 days, in later forms it takes at least three months to fully mature.

August is the time for harvesting early ripening varieties. But watermelons are not harvested en masse during this period. An exception is cases of forced collection of melons due to early frosts.

During the warm season, only the ripest pumpkins are harvested, identifying them according to the following features:

• shiny (not matte) surface of the bark, dense to the touch;
• a dull sound if you knock on the bark and a characteristic crackle when the fruit is squeezed with hands;
• the presence of a dry stem of a brownish color;
• well distinguishable pattern of clear stripes and the presence yellow spot in the place where the fruit was in contact with the ground.

Since each of these signs is rather conditional, it is necessary to be guided by their combination. Otherwise, there is a high probability of cutting unripe berries.

Diseases and their treatment

When growing watermelons, most often you have to deal with several diseases.

Anthracnose

The first sign of the disease is the formation of brown or yellow spots on the leaves. If at this stage the fight against anthracnose is not started, then “ulcers” will appear on the lashes dark color, after which the plants will begin to die en masse. Bushes are treated with cuprosan or they are surgically treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture as an effective cell poison that destroys harmful fungi. The soil must be weeded. For preventive spraying of bushes, 80% of the wettable powdered contact fungicide "Cineb" is used.

powdery mildew

Infection is indicated by the appearance of whitish spots on the bushes. If measures are not taken in time, then the gradual withering and death of the green parts of plants will begin. Treatment involves the destruction of the affected lashes with fruits and soil treatment with a systemic contact fungicide "Dinocap" ("Karatan LC"). For prevention, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of colloidal sulfur. The frequency of treatments is once a week.

white rot

Predisposing factors for its occurrence are high humidity combined with sudden changes in temperature. Infection by the fungus of the green parts of plants leads to stops in development and a significant deterioration in the taste of the fruit. The onset of the disease can be diagnosed by the presence of a white coating on the lashes and leaf blades. After the destruction of the rotten parts of the plantations, they are treated with copper sulfate. A therapeutic and prophylactic solution for spraying bushes is prepared at the rate of 100-200 g of copper-containing microfertilizer per 20 liters of water.

The formation of watermelons in the open field is shown in the following video.