Raspberries are not considered a capricious plant, but in order to get a good harvest of large, fragrant berries, raspberries need top dressing. Usually gardeners carry out two top dressings of raspberries - in spring and autumn.

Raspberries: spring care, top dressing

Before you start feeding raspberries, you need to destroy the weeds that have grown near it. It is desirable to remove weeds manually, because when digging, the roots of the plant, which are close to the surface, can be damaged in raspberries. In addition, you need to cut the lower shoots.

You can feed raspberries in the spring with both organic and mineral fertilizers. In May, you can feed raspberries with organic matter: for 10 liters of water, 2 tablespoons of sodium humate or 0.5 liters of mushy mullein. As for mineral fertilizers, experts recommend combining 60 g of superphosphate, 30 g of ammonium nitrate and 40 g of potassium salt per 10 liters of water for spring top dressing.

Potash fertilizers can be replaced with a glass of wood ash, which is very useful for raspberries, as it increases their yield. Raspberries are watered with this solution in two doses - in May and early June. You can feed the bushes with a mixture of 3 g of potassium salt, 3 g of superphosphate, 2 g of nitrogen fertilizers and 1.4 kg of manure per 1 sq. m. The soil in the raspberry must be mulched.

Feeding raspberries in summer

If the appearance of raspberries is not so hot, that is, the shoots are thin, the foliage is small and yellow, then the raspberries did not have enough spring feeding. And in order to rectify the situation, raspberries will have to be fed in the summer, using mineral fertilizers. Such top dressing is carried out in early July, with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer: 20-30 g per 10 liters of water.

Feeding raspberries with chicken manure

Chicken manure is considered almost the best option for organic feeding. Diluted in a ratio of 1:30, fermented chicken manure is usually brought in in the fall, evenly watering the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe raspberry with it. Experienced gardeners bring in well-rotted chicken manure in a dry form, and also in the fall, scattering it near raspberry bushes.

Feeding raspberries during flowering

To increase yields, some experts recommend feeding raspberries during flowering. A mixture consisting of 1 cup of superphosphate, 1 cup of ash and 3-4 tablespoons of urea is diluted in 10 liters of water and the solution is added along the grooves.

Feeding raspberries with yeast

Yeast contains many useful substances for plants, so they are also used as top dressing. The solution for dressing can be prepared from fresh and dry yeast. If dry yeast is used, then 10 g of dry yeast and 5 tablespoons of sugar are taken per 10 liters of warm water. All this is infused for at least 2 hours, after which the resulting infusion is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:5. Fresh yeast is taken 0.5 kg per bucket of warm water, which are also diluted in a ratio of 1:5. Yeast infusion is used immediately, preferably in a still warm form, otherwise the microorganisms that are present in the yeast will die or their use will not give the desired effect. During the raspberry growing season, two top dressings are done - in May and in summer for the formation of ovaries.

In general, experts advise the need to use raspberry dressings to focus on the appearance of the plant. If during the growing season raspberries have grown shoots of sufficient thickness and about 2 m long, and the yield of berries from one bush was at least 1 kg, then the fertilizers were selected correctly and applied in sufficient volume. If the harvest was low, and the condition of the shoots is poor, it is necessary to increase the amount of fertilizer applied in the fall or feed the raspberries more often.

Gardeners always have a lot of questions about how to grow raspberries, how to grow them so that they are tasty, sweet. Raspberries are a very useful plant that can be seen in almost every garden plot. This is one of the tastiest berries in our gardens. But who among us did not notice on the bushes, now worms, then some kind of clumsy, hardened raspberries? Why did the twigs suddenly dry up with fruits that did not have time to ripen? We have selected the most frequently asked questions and tried to answer briefly.

How to choose the best place for raspberries?

Those gardeners who set aside a corner of the garden for her or plant her along the hedge are doing the right thing. This makes it easier to take care of her. But still, the corner of the garden is preferable, since it is there that a large amount of snow accumulates during the winter.

What is the best soil for raspberries?

Fertile, moist soils are most suitable for growing. The best for her are sandy-clay, alluvial-meadow, which are more saturated with nutrients than others. Heavy clay soils and soils oversaturated with limestone are unacceptable for her.

How to prepare the soil for raspberries?

5-8 kg of manure, 70-80 g of superphosphate, 20-25 g of potassium sulfate are applied to the area intended for planting - this is per 1 sq. m. Scatter fertilizers evenly over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site, dig it deep.

Do I need to plant several varieties of raspberries side by side for better pollination?

Most raspberry varieties are self-fertile, so there is no particular need to plant pollinating varieties nearby. Of course, you can plant several varieties side by side, but this will not interfere with pollination.

When to plant raspberries?

The best time of the year for planting or transplanting seedlings is autumn - late August - September. In the spring, you can plant only as an exception.

How to plant raspberry seedlings?

Pits for planting raspberries usually have dimensions of 30 × 30 × 30 cm. The seedlings are positioned so that after filling with soil they are below the ground (6-7 cm). The roots must be carefully straightened and covered. The soil around the seedling is compacted. For better conditions during irrigation, the soil is raked from the trunk - a small depression is made so that the water does not spread. After watering, the soil around the seedlings is mulched with peat, hay, straw, fallen leaves, and other mulch.

Do I need to prune raspberries after planting?

Need. If not cut, then, firstly, it will give a small crop, secondly, new young shoots will not form, which will give a new crop, and thirdly, cut plants take root better. Therefore, immediately after planting, the stems are cut with secateurs, leaving stumps no more than 20-25 cm tall.

How far apart should raspberry seedlings be planted?

Between rows, a distance of 1-1.2 m should be left, and between seedlings - 50-60 cm.

How to propagate raspberries?

The main methods of reproduction are propagation by seeds, vegetatively. Reproduction by seeds amateur gardeners practically do not use. Usually, plants grown in this way rarely take valuable qualities from the original parent varieties. The vegetative method involves the use of young shoots from the roots (root offspring) or dividing the bush for propagation. This is the cheapest, fastest way.

How, when and why to care for raspberries?

If you do not take care of planting raspberries, then it will overgrow with weeds, which greatly deplete the bushes. There are few young shoots, they are weak. The berries become small, their taste deteriorates, the yield decreases.

Autumn digging between rows is required. First, excess young shoots are removed, and then they dig up the soil between the rows.

In the spring, before bud break (end of March-April), the soil between the bushes must be loosened. Deeper between rows - 10-15 cm, and next to plants - shallow - 5-7 cm, so as not to damage the root system.

From the beginning of the appearance of leaves and until the collection of berries, they are loosened two more times.

After harvesting, they loosen again, and then do not touch the aisles until autumn - annual shoots should ripen well.

How, when to water and how much water do raspberries need when watering?

Raspberries love watering. Most moisture is required when it blooms, when it is tied, the berries ripen - from May to August. The first time (of course, if there is no rain) they are watered before flowering (end of April), the second time - the end of May. Be sure to water 1-2 times when the berries are poured. Water for the last time after harvest.

Irrigation rate - 1-2 buckets of water for one plant. It is most convenient to water through the furrows, which are made on both sides of the row - a distance of 20-25 cm from the bushes.

How to cut raspberries?

Immediately after planting, the raspberry stalks are cut off, leaving stumps 20-25 cm high. In the second year, 2-3 young shoots are left - the rest are cut with secateurs to the ground, leaving no stumps.

As soon as the entire crop is harvested, all two-year-old shoots that have already fructified are cut out.

It is also recommended to prune in the spring, since after winter it is usually clear which shoots are weak, which ones were sick. Young shoots are cut out if there are a lot of them or they grow too often. No more than 10-12 young shoots are left per bush.

How to rejuvenate raspberry bushes?

In older bushes, the number of young shoots usually decreases. Sooner or later, the yield of such bushes decreases. Experienced gardeners know that yields can be restored by removing the old rhizome. In this case, there is an increase in the growth of young shoots. In parallel with the removal of the old rhizome, increased doses of organic and mineral fertilizers are applied under raspberries. Such rejuvenation should be carried out every 5-6 years.

How and what fertilize raspberries?

It is best for raspberries to alternate the application of organic and mineral fertilizers. The dosage is as follows - 1.5-3 kg of manure + 1 tablespoon (30 g) of superphosphate + 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate (30 g) per 1 sq. m. Organic matter (manure) is applied in autumn during deep digging of row spacing. Superphosphate is applied in the spring before bud break during the first loosening. Potassium sulphate - at the end of flowering. Fertilizers are evenly distributed over the surface of the soil, dug up or loosen it.

How long, how many years can raspberries grow in one place?

With good care, you can grow it for 12-15 years without changing the landing site.

What are the fungal diseases of raspberries, how to deal with them?

Blue-purple spotting (didimela)

Signs: blue-violet spots appear on the stems at the point of attachment to the cutting - the leaves fall off, and the cuttings remain and droop. The culprit of the disease is the spores of the fungus overwinter on young raspberry shoots.

Control measures: remove, burn diseased shoots; spray with copper-containing preparations (chorus, Bordeaux liquid, HOM, others).

Drying of shoots (koniotirium)

This fungal disease manifests itself in the drying of shoots, sometimes along with berries.

Control measures: cut, burn the affected shoots; spraying with copper-containing preparations.

Anthracnose

Spores of the fungus infect shoots, berries, leaves, spots with a purple border appear on them.

Control measures: removal, burning of affected shoots along with leaves, berries; Spraying in late autumn, summer (2-3 times in 2 weeks) with copper-containing preparations that prevent the reproduction and development of the fungus.

Raspberry leaf rust

With this disease, light yellow spots appear on the upper part of the leaves, a little later in the same places, but orange-yellow pimples are visible from the bottom of the leaf, which eventually acquire a dark rusty color - these are spores of the fungus. The fungus that causes the disease overwinters on fallen leaves.

Control measures: spraying fallen leaves with copper-containing preparations. In the spring, the obligatory first spraying after the leaves bloom, repeated - after two weeks.

Raspberry leaf spot

Signs of the disease: white-dirty spots appear on the leaves. Fungus spores overwinter on fallen leaves.

Control measures: as soon as the first manifestations of the disease are noticed, spray with copper-containing preparations; fallen leaves are recommended to be burned.

What are the viral diseases of raspberries, how to deal with them?

Of the viral diseases, the most famous are: yellow mosaic, witch's broom, yellow leaf venation, viral (infectious) chlorosis.

Witch's broom (growth, bushiness)

With a witch's broom disease, numerous thin shortened shoots form on the raspberry shoots - they become like a broom. Berries are tied much less.

yellow mosaic

With yellow mosaic disease, pale green spots first appear on raspberry leaves, which then turn yellow.

yellow veining of leaves

With yellow venation of the leaves, yellow stripes appear along the veins.

Infectious (viral chlorosis)

With infectious (viral) chlorosis, by mid-summer the leaves turn yellow, first along the veins, and then the entire leaf turns yellow, as in autumn.

All these diseases are viral in nature.

Control measures: root removal of diseased bushes; treatment with drugs that destroy pests - aphids, cicadas, others that are carriers of pathogenic viruses, for example, Actellik, Iskra, Karbofos, Kemifos, and others.

How to prevent the appearance of worms in raspberry berries?

The culprit for the appearance of wormy berries is the raspberry beetle. It hibernates as an adult in the ground, appears in the spring, eats buds, flowers. Raspberry beetle females lay their eggs inside the buds, flower buds, green raspberries. Beetle larvae (worms) live in berries, feed on them, and pupate in the soil. This cycle is repeated once a year.

Control measures: in the fall, dig up the soil, that is, disturb the wintering place of the raspberry beetle. And in the spring, spray the bushes until the leaves appear with one of the following preparations: Fufanon, Kemifos, Karbofos.

How to deal with raspberry agrilus?

Raspberry Agrilus is a beetle of a light gray-greenish color. Female beetles lay their eggs under the skin of raspberry stems. The emerging larvae make spiral passages inside the stems - the shoots die off.

Control measures - cutting, destruction (burning) of the affected shoots - this is the only way.

How to deal with stem raspberry gall midge?

Raspberry stem gall midge is a small mosquito that usually appears in May-June. Female mosquitoes lay their eggs under the skin of raspberry stalks. Larvae (worms) live inside the stem, feed on its pulp. At the site of introduction of the larvae, cones and outgrowths appear on the stem, inside which there is usually one larva, rarely 2-3. The stem at the site of the growth is easily broken. Sooner or later, nutrition stops coming to the top of the stem, the leaves wither, the shoots die off ahead of time, the crop dies.

Control measures: cutting off the affected branches, burning them; treatment of raspberries with mosquito repellents - infusions of tobacco, mullein, walnut leaves, bird cherry, nettle, wormwood, etc. Spray in the evening, as mosquitoes begin their actions at nightfall, all night.

How to deal with raspberry kidney moth?

Butterfly raspberry bud moth begins its vigorous activity during the flowering of raspberries - it lays eggs inside the flower. The caterpillar feeds on the juices of the flower, and then hides under the bark of the stem. In spring, the caterpillars penetrate into the kidneys, eat everything inside, and pupate there.

Control measures: spray during swelling of the kidneys with a 30% solution of karbofos.

How to deal with leafworms, aphids and mites - raspberry pests?

leaf rollers

There are many varieties of leaflets. The common behavior for them is great mobility, when they are discovered, they begin to squirm violently and try to "escape" by descending on cobwebs. Leafworm caterpillars feed on leaves by buds. At the same time, the leaves are wrapped along the length or width of the sheet, which is why they are called leaflets.

Control measures: effective late-autumn and summer spraying with Actellik. In early spring, before bud break or in late autumn, spraying with preparation No. 30 is effective.

Aphid

Aphids suck juices from raspberry leaves, from shoots, berries. In this case, the affected leaves curl, the shoots stop growing. Aphids are dangerous because they are carriers of viral diseases.

Control measures. The drug Bi-58 is effective against aphids.

Ticks

A variety of mites cause great harm to raspberries - the leaves turn pale, fall off, the berries remain small, tasteless. In late autumn, early spring, before the leaves bloom, I advise you to treat the bushes with preparation No. 30, before the appearance of fruits - Bi-58.

How to deal with bacterial raspberry cancer?

It should be noted that almost all types of raspberries are unstable to bacterial cancer. It is impossible to save diseased plants, they must be destroyed. Measures for the prevention of seedlings before planting are relatively effective. Carefully select seedlings before buying, inspecting the roots - there should be no growths, thickenings. There are no drugs against bacterial raspberry cancer yet. Do not plant it in place of plants removed due to disease for 2-3 years. The soil can be improved by planting legumes in this place for several years.

Any agrotechnical measures are carried out taking into account the life cycle of the plant. Watering raspberries - a crop with a superficial root system - is necessary depending on the variety, nature of the soil, terrain and climatic conditions.

seasonality

The technique of watering raspberries is easy to master, given what part of the plant needs to be watered during the season.

• After planting raspberry cuttings, watering is necessary so that the weak root system, absorbing nutrients from the soil, quickly gives new shoots.
• In the spring, watering is needed to force out young shoots, build up green mass and form an ovary.
• During fruiting, raspberries are watered so that the berries are poured large and have excellent taste.
• After harvesting, it is necessary to moisten the soil in the raspberry bush in order to avoid depletion of the shrub.
• In autumn, raspberries should be watered in moderation so as not to stimulate the growth of new shoots: they will not have time to get stronger before the cold weather and die in winter.

Watering repair raspberries

Remontant raspberry varieties produce two crops per season if grown in a two-year culture. In an annual crop, it produces one, but later harvest.

• In the first case, when young shoots are left in the winter, in the next season they will begin to bear fruit in mid-July. In spring, such bushes need to be watered at the end of May - for the growth of new shoots and ovaries on old branches. In summer, it is necessary to water at the beginning of the ripening of the first crop. At the time of mass ripening of berries, watering must be controlled so that waterlogging of the soil does not cause gray rot on the berries. In early August, the berries of the second crop begin to pour on new shoots - which means that the plant needs abundant watering.
• In the second case, when the ground part of the bush is completely cut out for the winter, next year the berries on new shoots will begin to set a month later, respectively, the intensity of summer watering should be transferred to the middle and end of August.

Early ripe varieties- Hercules, Eurasia or the Bryansk miracle - need intensive watering from the end of May to mid-July.

Mid-season varieties- Atlas or Orange miracle - you need to water abundantly in late spring, and then from the end of July.

Late-ripening varieties- Kirzhach or Morning dew - need uniform watering throughout the season, autumn watering needs to be adjusted depending on the weather and climate zone.

Raspberries are watered infrequently, but plentifully, especially in the hot summer months, since in the heat the plant compensates for the lack of air humidity by increased evaporation of moisture through the leaves.

The average volume of water for irrigating raspberries is two buckets per square meter of soil.

How to determine by the appearance of the shrub that raspberries need to be watered?

If at the end of May, young shoots and side branches on last year's branches have grown to 30 - 35 cm in length, they are powerful, fleshy and thick, which means that the bush receives enough moisture, and if the shoots are thin and short, they bend easily, then watering is necessary .

Watering in northern latitudes

The short summer in the northern regions makes it possible to grow only ordinary raspberry varieties with early and mid-ripening ripening periods. Snowy winters give a lot of meltwater in spring, so spring watering of raspberries can be moderate, and in early spring, on the contrary, you need to dig shallow drainage grooves between rows so that the surface roots do not get wet and the bush is not affected by a fungal infection. In summer, raspberries should be watered once every two weeks so that moisture soaks the soil 30–40 cm deep.

Autumn watering is needed only in case of a warm autumn and a plentiful harvest in order to support the plant.

Watering in the middle lane

Spring watering can be started from late May or early July.

In summer, adult raspberries are watered abundantly once every two weeks. Young cuttings planted in spring are watered two to three times a week.

Watering can be combined with top dressing, since fertilizers are applied only to moist soil.

The soil after watering must be loosened and mulched to provide good aeration to the roots. Considering that hot weather in the middle lane most often ends by the end of August, the last watering should be carried out no later than the beginning of September.

It is important to know that the superficial root system of raspberries does not tolerate icy tap water. For irrigation, it is better to collect rainwater or fill containers with tap water, but wait until it warms up with the sun.

Watering raspberries in the southern regions

Considering winters with little snow, hot dry winds in summer and a long, sometimes hot autumn, raspberry cultivation in the south takes place from early May to late October. Watering should be regular and plentiful throughout the season. In hot steppe regions, it is advisable to use drip or trench irrigation. Gardeners also practice burying bottomless plastic bottles between rows - water is poured into these containers from a hose. This method of irrigation provides constant soil moisture, while its upper layer remains loose and dry.

It is necessary to water the raspberries by sprinkling in the evening or morning hours, when there is no direct sunlight. Water droplets on the leaves will serve as optical lenses, and through them the plant in the sun can get significant burns.

Simple, but timely agrotechnical measures, dedication and sincere approach to business allow gardeners to get good yields of tasty and healthy berries.

How to care for raspberries? Why do young shoots wither?

Many gardeners grow raspberries in their summer cottages, as in a forest: they don’t cut out old shoots, they don’t follow the young ones, they just pick berries. If you are interested in increasing the yield, some raspberry care will still be required: mainly watering, pest control and top dressing of raspberries.

Raspberries grow well in sunny and humid places almost throughout Russia. She follows the person literally on the heels. Pay attention to the side of a newly laid road, a forest clearing, a fire, and you will immediately notice young raspberry bushes.

Raspberry Care

Raspberries do not tolerate drought at all and even just drying out of the topsoil. Therefore, in spring and early summer, she needs regular watering, especially in dry weather (at least 2-3 buckets of water under a bush per week). Watering should always be done in the evening so that moisture seeps into the root zone during the night, and does not evaporate from the soil surface, as happens with daytime or morning watering.

When growing raspberries, mulching the soil under plantings is very important. Firstly, the mulch retains moisture in the root zone, secondly, it prevents the growth of weeds, and thirdly, it retains heat in the soil, and in winter it covers the raspberry roots from frost. It is best to cover the soil under raspberries with a layer of rotted sawdust, peat, foliage, hay, straw, weeded weeds at least 8-10 cm high.

Instead of mulch, it is permissible to cover the soil between rows, as well as on the edges of raspberry plantings, with any light-tight material that will retain moisture and heat in the soil and will not allow weeds to germinate. Since raspberries have a superficial root system located in a soil layer 15-20 cm deep, weeds greatly inhibit it, depriving it of nutrition and moisture.

How to form a raspberry?

At the beginning of summer, when young shoots come out of the ground, the 4 strongest should be left, the rest should be pulled out. In addition, it is necessary to remove and burn all the shoots, in which the tops droop and tie - this means that the raspberry fly larva has settled in them. It is no longer possible to save these shoots, and if they are left under the bushes, new generations of pests will emerge from them.

3:9

When young raspberry shoots reach a height of 1 m, they should be plucked from the top growth bud (you can simply cut off the top of the shoot) to stop further growth and cause side shoots to appear. Lateral shoots usually have time to grow to a length of 40 cm by the end of summer.

Next spring, as soon as the raspberries begin to grow, cut the dried ends of the branches to the green part. If the ends of the branches are green, then pinch the side branches. Pinching will cause additional branches to grow, resulting in a whole tree with four side branches instead of one stem. What does it give? The increase in yield is almost doubled, the fruiting period of raspberries stretched over the whole summer.

After the end of fruiting, fruiting stems should be cut immediately. If there are no swellings on them - gall, then the stems can be left directly under the raspberries; if there are such growths on the stems, then it is better to burn them. However, old stems that do not have galls can be left until spring, especially if you are tying raspberries for overwintering in bunches. Old stems will serve as a support and protect young shoots from wind and cold, as they will help retain snow.

Raspberries are not hardy, but many varieties can overwinter without any shelter. For overwintering, the bushes are pulled together in a bundle, tied not too tightly and left to winter. Sometimes it is advised to cover the raspberry with spruce branches and pile snow on it. Personally, I never do this.

Do not rush to untie or unbend raspberries in the spring if you tied them up or laid them on the ground in the fall. Raspberries have fragile stems, and they break easily almost at the very ground, especially at air temperatures below 6 degrees Celsius. Raspberries wake up late, so untie the bushes only after the temperature is about 10 degrees. The stems will straighten themselves. Only after that they should be tied to trellises or stakes.

Raspberry dressing

Raspberries love nitrogen fertilization, but nitrogen reduces frost resistance, so the first nitrogen fertilization should be given only after the end of spring frosts (for the North-West - in early June). For nitrogen supplements, fresh manure diluted with water (1:10), rabbit and goat droppings (1:10) or bird droppings diluted with water (1:20) are best suited. Instead of manure and litter, you can use weed infusion, but it should also be diluted with water (1: 2). Before fertilizing, plants should always be watered to avoid burning the root system.

If there is no organic top dressing, then use a mineral containing nitrogen: urea, ammonium nitrate. However, it is better to always fertilize with mineral nitrogen along with potassium, that is, add potassium that does not contain chlorine (potassium sulfate or potassium carbonate). It is most convenient to use potassium nitrate for dressing, containing both nitrogen and potassium. In total, mineral fertilizers should be taken 3 tbsp. spoons and dilute them in 10 liters of water. Approximately 1 liter of top dressing should be poured under each bush.

4:9

Potassium nitrate is preferable as a spring top dressing also because it does not acidify the soil, unlike all other nitrogen top dressings, and raspberries do not like acidic soil. In this regard, a deoxidizer must be constantly applied to the raspberry plantation. You can water 2-3 times per season with lime milk (1 cup of lime or dolomite per 10 liters of water, which is used for 10 m plantings) or pour 1-2 cups of ash under each bush on moist soil.

During the fruiting period in mid-summer, raspberries are fed with phosphorus and potassium. In addition, trace elements are added. To do this, you can take 1 tbsp. a spoonful of double granular superphosphate and potassium fertilizer without chlorine, add 2 teaspoons of Uniflor-micro, dilute everything in 10 liters of water and after watering add a fertilizer solution - a liter jar for each bush. Watering during fruiting can be reduced to 1 bucket per bush per week in dry weather, or stopped altogether if the weather is wet.

In October, organic fertilizers are applied under raspberries (a bucket for each bush) in the form of rotted manure or compost. If autumn is dry, then you should pour plenty of water on raspberries (at least 3 buckets of water under a bush).

Raspberries are a healthy and tasty berry. This unpretentious berry shrub grows well in the most forgotten corners of the country house and constantly thanks us with a good harvest. And if you pay a little attention to raspberries, cut them in time, find out when it’s right and, most importantly, how to feed the raspberries, the crop will immediately increase significantly.

Raspberry is a berry bush with prickly shoots. However, recently breeders have been trying to breed varieties with bare shoots to make it easier to pick berries. Because of the delicious berries, everyone tries to plant raspberries on the site, but due to the fact that the raspberry is very sprawling and does not look very decorative, they usually plant deep into the site, in the farthest corner and forget about it. There, in the shade of garden trees, raspberries bloom poorly and bear fruit, which inexpressibly surprises the owners. What else do raspberries need? Here are some tips to help you get serious raspberry harvests from a small area all season long.

Landing

The best time to plant raspberries is spring. Some varieties can

Planting raspberries must be carried out in a sunny place. The more light, the better. Raspberries, growing by themselves, shade themselves; they do not need companions in the form of garden trees.

Seedlings are planted in trenches or holes, into which humus is first poured. The seedlings are buried a few centimeters deeper than they grew in the old place. On average, they are deepened by 4-6 centimeters. The distance between the holes is about 60 centimeters, and between the rows of raspberries - about a meter.

The planted plant is well shed with a bucket of water, having previously formed a hole for irrigation.

Watering

Raspberry is a moisture-loving plant. Therefore, in the season it must be watered abundantly in order to get a good harvest of delicious berries. Moisture is especially necessary for the plant during flowering, development and ripening of fruits. Therefore, the first abundant watering is done before flowering, the second after 2-3 weeks. The next watering is done at the time of harvest. The last time the raspberries are watered after pruning.

Raspberry pruning

Raspberries give a harvest on the shoots of the second year. This rule does not apply to repair raspberries. You need to know this in order to successfully form a raspberry bush.

The next year after planting, at the moment when the buds begin to bloom, raspberries are formed by pruning, leaving several strong and healthy shoots. The tops of the shoots are slightly shortened, but not much, since the main fruit buds are at the top. The shoots are attached to the support.

Autumn pruning is the removal of dried shoots.

Raspberry fertilizer

Raspberries are fed several times a season:

• during flowering and the appearance of the ovary;
• during fruiting;
• after the end of fruiting.

The most important trace elements for raspberries are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen fertilizers reduce the resistance of raspberries to frost, so fertilizers are applied in the following sequence: nitrogen fertilizer in spring and summer, potassium-phosphorus in autumn. Raspberry fertilizer in summer is recommended with organic-based formulations, as raspberries respond well to organic matter. In addition, organic fertilizers have a positive effect on the quality of the crop.

Feeding raspberries in spring

In May, i.e. in spring, raspberries are fertilized mainly with nitrogen-containing compounds in order to enhance vegetation, shoot growth and thereby increase its yield. Mineral fertilizers should not be applied, because harvesting an environmentally friendly crop is the goal of every gardener.

Feeding raspberries during flowering

Here are some recipes for feeding raspberries when they bloom:

1. Feeding with mullein is carried out in the proportion of 1 part of mullein to 10 parts of water. Let it brew for about a week;
2. A solution of chicken manure in the proportion of 1 part manure to 10 parts water, let it brew for about 10 days, and then use it as a fertilizer, diluting a liter jar of infusion into 10 liters of water;
3. In the infusion of chicken manure or mullein, prepared according to the rules, wood ash is added in the proportion of 1 glass per 10 liters of water, as well as bone meal, which is applied directly under the roots, mixed with humus;
4. Yeast in an amount of 100 grams is dissolved in a 10-liter bucket of water; you can fertilize raspberries with a similar composition in spring and summer. It perfectly stimulates the growth of green mass, activates flowering and increases productivity.

Feeding raspberries in summer

The second feeding is carried out when the berries begin to actively sing. You can feed raspberries in July with organic or biohumus compounds. Do not use mineral compounds so that they do not affect the quality of the crop.

1. Apply compositions based on biohumus, diluting according to the instructions for the drug;
2. You can feed the raspberries again with infusion of mullein or chicken manure;
3. Stimulate productivity by feeding with yeast infusion.

Feeding raspberries during fruiting is necessary for the plant to increase productivity, improve the quality and taste of berries.

Autumn top dressing

During the autumn feeding period, it is recommended to introduce herbaceous plants into the soil, for example, vetch, clover, mustard. Overheating, the grass loosens the soil and gives additional fertilizer to the raspberry roots. In addition, a mixture of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers is applied under the plant, which will enable the plant to lay flower buds for the next season.

1. 30 grams of phosphorus and 20 grams of potash fertilizer are mixed, the dry mixture is embedded in the soil around the bush;
2. They pour it under a bush and close up up to 1 kg of wood ash per square meter of raspberries; raspberry ash fertilizer is recommended to maintain the optimal amount of potassium in the soil

Feeding raspberries with yeast

Feeding raspberries with yeast greatly stimulates the vegetative process, flowering and fruiting of the bush. Therefore, you can feed the raspberries during the ripening of the berries with yeast. In addition to the fact that such top dressing will become a stimulant, it will also strengthen the immunity of the plant, increase productivity and positively affect the quality of the crop.