Extension to a wooden house: projects, building technologies, choosing the best option. How to make an extension to the house - expert advice Project extension to a brick house with an attic

Sometimes it happens that after the construction of a country house, it turns out that it has a small square, or there is a need for a separate kitchen, hozblok, workshop or barn. In this case, you have to make an extension to the house. To reduce material costs to a minimum, you should immediately think about what to build it from.

How to build an extension to the house with minimal costs, with photos and examples, how to prepare the foundation for it, what material to choose for the walls and roof - later in the article.

general information

In the event that water supply and sewerage are planned in the extension, as in the case of the construction of a kitchen or bathrooms, this issue should be puzzled before pouring the foundation.

If you plan to use the extension not only in the summer, then you should provide for floor insulation, for example, using expanded clay bedding. It is also useful to think over in the case of living in winter how to heat the room.

As an easy extension option, you can equip a veranda - it provides protection from wind and bad weather. In winter, it will not be possible to live on the veranda, since, as a rule, it is not heated.

The extension must be in harmony with the main structure. An economical, warm and prefabricated version of the building is a frame made of wood, after erection it is easy to finish it under the main building. It has many advantages:

simplicity and speed of construction;
relative cheapness;
environmental cleanliness of the extension;
there is no need to build a capital foundation.

Foundation construction

For a veranda or a frame-type residential extension, a columnar foundation is suitable, since the weight of the structure is small. If there is a need to bring communications, as is the case with a bathroom or kitchen, it is necessary to ensure thermal insulation of the water supply and sewerage sections located on the street. This will cost a pretty penny, but the costs are much less than if it were necessary to equip a strip foundation. The floors in such an extension are made of boards so as not to burden the structure.

The concrete pillars on which the structure will stand are poured 50x50 cm in size at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other. The bottom of the pits under the pillars is covered with a layer of sand, then with rubble, and all this is carefully rammed.

Pillars must be reinforced to give strength to the foundation. The formwork is removed about a week after pouring, when the concrete has gained strength. As a waterproofing, bitumen or roofing material is glued to the poles.

Bottom trim and floors

In order for the frame extension to serve for a long time, it is necessary to provide waterproofing and impregnate all wooden elements with an antiseptic and fungicidal composition. High-quality waterproofing gives bituminous mastic.

A 150x150 mm timber is used as the lower trim, preferably from larch. Under it, a roofing material is necessarily planted to isolate it from the foundation. The first row is laid strictly horizontally in level, without connecting the timber at the joints.

The second row is laid with overlapping joints on the first. Then, with the help of studs, the first and second rows are connected. You can use 50x150 mm boards instead of timber, and in order to achieve structural integrity, they are connected to self-tapping screws.

The lower harness is attached to the beds, on which the logs are laid. Insulation is placed between the lags, for example, polystyrene, and subfloors are laid. Finishing floors are laid from moisture-resistant plywood.

Walls

The walls are made in two ways - either they assemble the structure on the ground, and then erect it, or gradually build the frame in place. For the first option, several people are needed, since the structure cannot be lifted alone.

The erection process begins with corner posts, it is very important to maintain right angles in all planes. For racks, a bar with a section of at least 100x100 mm is used. The pillars are placed at a distance slightly narrower than the width of the insulation sheet.

Openings for windows and doors are equipped with additional pillars and crossbars. The top of the frame is fastened with an upper strapping of the same design as the lower one. Sheathing is carried out with OSB, siding, plywood, clapboard.

Roof and insulation of the extension

The roof is easiest to equip with an ordinary shed. It should be done as a continuation of the roof of the main building. This is possible if the extension to the house is side. The roof of the extension must go under the main roof.

All elements - rafters, beams, crate must pass with an antiseptic. The roof is overlapped and, depending on its type, is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws or slate nails.

Styrofoam or mineral wool is used as insulation. First, the frame is sheathed with a hydrobarrier, then an insulating material is placed between the racks of the frame, and a vapor barrier is attached between it and the lining. Then they attach OSB or drywall to the racks, and proceed to the fine finish.

Photos of extensions to the house

Arrange a technical room or an additional living room. Then the question arises for the owner of the house. What to do? A common option for expanding the area is an extension to the house with your own hands. It's cheaper than building a whole house. Allows you to avoid credit loans for years that not everyone can afford. All in all, it might not be very expensive. This refers only to the construction itself. A house that is overgrown with properly made outbuildings becomes more comfortable and beautiful.

Organizational moments

Terrace attached to the house

Even at the stage of considering the construction, you already need to be prepared for the fact that when the time comes to legalize a new structure, you will face difficulties. From the organizational and technical sides, this is all more difficult to consider. If the main building has already been designed and put into operation, then independent construction can lead to its accident rate.

The set up is not cheap. The type and design of the extension will be taken into account. New results for the operation of all housing will be required. But difficult does not mean impossible.

For registration you will need:

Ground investigations at the construction site. Pleasure is not cheap. This is necessary to guarantee the reliability of the new structure, which in turn is important for the integrity of the old house.
Checking existing housing
Obtain building permits from neighbors
extension project, designed by yourself or custom-made by specialists
Approve the project from a licensed construction company, firefighters, SES, electricians, public utilities. Columns 1, 2, 4 by order in a construction company are solved faster, and at a lower price
Obtain a building permit from the architects. Here you can also combine columns 1, 2, 4, 5 by ordering a “project by key” or “project with binding”
Upon completion of construction acceptance of the building by the authorities that issued the permit
Renew all contracts with public utilities for a new area
Re-register a new area in the tax service, cadastre

If everything is done correctly, then the specialists of licensed firms often do not harm and quickly draw up all the documents.

Basic requirements for construction

The project of the future extension should be well planned from the beginning, so as not to lead to additional alterations later. It is necessary to think over all the points in advance. Each structure has its own conditions for construction.

For a living room, all structures must have good insulation. Otherwise, the heating will not make sense. It is also very important to prevent dampness in the room. Reliable waterproofing is a guarantee of normal operation of the premises, will make it reliable, durable. Natural light is also important.

Glazed veranda

For the kitchen and bathroom engineering communications are brought in advance. This is best done before pouring the foundation. Particular attention should be paid to the insulation of the building and good waterproofing of the floor.

The main function of the veranda is to protect the entrance to the main building from bad weather. They rest here in summer. You don't need to warm up. Foundation waterproofing is very important. The structure can be in the form of a conventional flooring, with low walls and a roof raised on pillars. Walled verandas are also built, with a door and one or more windows.

Where to start?

With any construction, they begin with preparatory work. The site is thoroughly cleaned of debris and everything necessary for construction is prepared.

A drainage system is required under the building. To do this, the earth is compacted, and a slope is made at this place for water flow.

Foundation

The base for the construction of the structure is tape and columnar. Each has its own qualities. To select the most suitable, you must first study each.

Strip foundation

Strip foundation

This foundation is done in the following order:

The rope is used to mark and trace the site for construction. It is stretched and fixed. According to this outline, a trench is dug to the depth of the base of the main building and 10-15 cm wider than the wall
The bottom of the trench is covered with a 10-12 cm layer of sand. All this is carefully compacted. Next comes the crushed stone, which also needs to be compacted. Broken bricks are allowed
The next step is to lay a waterproofing film along the trench. It goes 40-50 cm above the ground. It closes the foundation from the inside, and the formwork above the ground. Then the reinforcement is fixed. Its design in shape should be a repetition of the foundation to its full height.
The concrete mortar should consist of cement with gravel. They fill 1/3 of the height of the trench. This layer must be completely dry. Next comes another layer of concrete. It will fill half of the remaining height
Having installed the formwork, form the base. The waterproofing remains in the formwork, straightened along its walls and fixed from above. The film must not slide into the concrete. The formwork is completely filled with concrete. The solution must be pierced with a shovel so that there are no air cavities inside. The formwork is also lightly tapped so that the resulting vibration compacts the concrete solution well.
Upon completion of the pour, the concrete is leveled and left to dry completely. Every day it is sprinkled with water. This makes it more durable. When it hardens, the formwork is removed
It is recommended that the foundation be additionally covered with waterproofing compounds or materials in rolls. These are liquid rubber, tar, bituminous mastic and roofing material. Then they start building walls.
The internal space of this foundation is equipped with various options. For example, using a concrete screed or flooring from floor beams and logs, with the installation of a wooden floor in the future

Column Foundation

Column Foundation

This type of foundation is built of brick or concrete. Possibly both materials. This basis is used for the construction of verandas and living rooms, with further planning for the installation of boardwalk.

The foundation is carried out in the following order:

First, the marking of the selected site for construction is also applied.
Pillars should be placed 1.5 m apart. For them, pits are dug 50x50 cm in size and 50-60 cm deep. The dimensions of the pit at the top expand by approximately 10 cm on each side
Further, the bottom of the pits is reinforced with sand and gravel. Waterproofing is being laid
A layer of cement mortar is poured under the brick supports. It must completely freeze. After that, brickwork is done
For concrete pillars, reinforcement and formwork are installed in the pit to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is laid inside the formwork and fixed from above.
The formwork is filled with concrete mortar in layers, each of which is allowed to dry.
The top of the post is leveled and sprinkled every day with water until the concrete is completely dry.
After that, the formwork is removed. With the help of warm bituminous mastic, the poles are pasted over with roofing material
The void around the pillars is covered with earth with gravel. Every 10-15 cm it must be compacted
Roofing material is laid on the pillars in several layers. This will be the waterproofing protection of the wooden bars. They will be mounted on top.

Floor bases

Floors made of wood and concrete are laid on the strip foundation. The tree is also laid for a columnar foundation without lintels.

concrete base

concrete base

For the reliability and warmth of the floor screed on a strip foundation, work is carried out in stages according to a certain technology:

At the beginning, the earth is removed from the foundation. It is loosened and removed. The depth of the pit should be approximately 25-35 cm
The bottom is filled with 10 cm sand. It packs up well. Then crushed stone or expanded clay is laid in 15-20 cm. The second material makes the screed warm
Everything is well leveled and the reinforcing grate is laid. A system of beacons is installed on it at a horizontal level. Some rooms require a sloped surface. For example, in a bathroom or on an outdoor terrace, water from the floor must flow freely to the drainage system.
The next step is pouring cement and leveling. After a day, it is recommended to cover it with plastic wrap. This will make it more uniform, durable
When the structure is ready, a floor covering or a wooden floor can be laid on a concrete base.

Wooden beam base

Wooden beam base

To make the floors durable, choose high-quality crossbars.
Wooden bars, 15x10 cm thick in cross section, are placed on the foundation, on a roofing felt substrate.
They are attached to concrete using through joints or corners.
The beams are also fastened to each other with powerful corners. All this will hold securely.

Wall materials

Any materials for the construction of an additional annex are used. The walls are built of brick, frame, foam blocks. The main thing is that all this has a good combination with the main house.

It will not be difficult to repeat the exterior decoration of the house. Wood, for example, goes well with all materials and looks good without additional processing.

Frame walls

The construction of a frame structure is a good option:

construction is fast, in a matter of months
due to the ease of construction, no capital foundation is required
you can do it yourself
at an inexpensive price

The foundations of the house and self-building are made on the same level. Accession should not be capital, because. the extension will sag after a while. A deformation seam is made. Frame structures do not shrink vertically, which is very attractive.

The frame for the walls is made of timber and attached to pre-assembled coronal rungs. The bars can be attached separately. But it will be easier to assemble all the parts together with special fasteners, and then install them as an assembly.

To attach the frame to the main building, vertical markings are made. Here you need to be precise. After installation, to make the frame stronger, it is immediately upholstered.

The upper beam along the house is attached to the main wall with anchor bolts. Insulate the walls after installing the roof.

brick walls

Brick walls require a perfectly flat foundation surface. Everything is checked. If there are any irregularities, they must be corrected. Otherwise, this will lead to cracking between the bricks during shrinkage of self-building.

For the most part, brick structures are attached to the house from the same material. It is tied with a metal frame, which is placed in the prepared holes. They are made in the main wall at 2/3 of the depth. Repeat every 2-3 rows. The reinforcement should protrude from the wall by at least half a meter and end up in the seams of the masonry. It is important to take the rods are not thick. Otherwise, the seams in this place will be very wide. Or you will have to make a recess in the bricks under the reinforcement.

A brick extension is also attached to the tree with a frame. It is placed in through-drilled holes. Transverse stoppers are made on the reinforcement. They will keep them in the wall.

To follow the rows horizontally, you need to pull the cord along the future wall. A plumb line checks vertically.

The wall thickness will depend on the functionality of the attached structure. For a living room, a brick is laid in 1-2 layers. On a terrace or outbuilding, a layer of half a brick will suffice.

Upon completion, the brick walls are surrounded by concrete from above. To do this, set the form in which the reinforcement is placed. All this is concreted. When the mortar hardens, the form is removed and the roofing begins to be installed.

Laying brick walls is not easy, as it might seem. This requires experience. The best option would be to entrust the work to a professional. Or make walls from other material.

Walls made of foam blocks

Foam concrete has its own distinctive qualities, among building materials:

No special skills are required to work. Construction is possible on difficult ground
Due to the fact that the blocks are large and light, it takes less time and effort to assemble, compared to laying bricks or timber
The material is durable, environmentally friendly, non-flammable and meets all fire safety standards. It also has low thermal conductivity and “breathes” well, which creates an optimal indoor climate.
Inexpensive, easy to assemble and easy to drill
An extension of foam blocks practically does not shrink and has a long service life.

Additional protection is required, as the material soon loses thermal insulation due to its high hygroscopicity
Not a very nice view. Therefore, external finishing is required.

The construction of foam concrete obliges the implementation of a strict sequence of stages:

It is necessary to start laying from the corner points
From below, the blocks are moistened to increase the hitch. The initial row is covered with several layers of protection against capillary moisture
The quality of the assembly is affected by the horizontality and verticality of the first row. Therefore, strict adherence to all rules is required. Horizontal irregularities are corrected with mortar
An adhesive composition is used between masonry. Connections are obtained no more than 1 mm, which minimizes their space, in other words, "cold bridges"
The composition is prepared, strictly following the rules. It is applied on top and on the sides of the blocks. Each brick is aligned horizontally and vertically
Grinding grater levels the horizontalness of each row. The garbage that is formed must be carefully swept away
The corners and every 5 rows are reinforced with rods that will bind the structure and prevent cracking. Why cuts are made with a circular saw 3 cm wide and 5 cm deep. Then recesses are knocked out with a hammer and a chisel. They need to be cleaned up. Welded rods are laid in the middle of the recesses and filled with adhesive.

For window and door openings, lintels with a width of not more than 1.75 m are installed. They are made using formwork - removable or fixed. For large openings, the strength of foam concrete is not designed. It is better then to choose a cinder block or silicate brick. This is a more secure base. The height of the jumper will depend on the thickness of the future floor.

For a removable form, metal structures of the desired size are first welded. On the sides of the opening, bars are nailed for support, a form is set on them. Shields are attached to the sides. Foam blocks are sawn into narrow blocks. They equip the form from the inside. The result will be a semblance of a trough.

The reinforcement frame is placed so that the side with a large number of rods is at the bottom. All this is fastened with struts. Then the blocks are moistened, filled with a solution of concrete along the perimeter of the walls and compacted. The poured concrete is leveled at the level of the blocks in the formwork and smoothed well.

For non-removable form, useU-shaped blocks. Setting the form itself is not required. Less time to work.

For laying such blocks you need:

Install the block with the cut-out support on the sides of the opening. Next, check the horizontalness of the supports on the hose level. All irregularities are corrected with a grinding grater.
The U-block is installed on the glue with the hole up. After that, a reinforcement structure is placed so that there are a large number of rods below. It is fastened with braces
The block is moistened. Concrete layers are laid on top. They are carefully sealed with a trowel.

It is very important to install a reinforced belt on the building. This will make it resistant to various types of deformation, wind loads, and increase the carrying capacity. The reinforced belt is insanely heavy. They do it right on the walls.

When the walls are already erected, they begin to deal with the ceiling. For this, crossbars are used. They are installed on the walls 60-70 cm apart. They are fastened with special corners.

When installing the crossbars on a brick extension, they are embedded in a concrete belt. The sides of the crossbars are wrapped in roofing felt. Then all this is hemmed with boards or thick plywood. Insulation material is laid between the lining and the crossbars.

Roofs look different. Basically choose a single-sided view. It consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. There is nothing complicated in the installation. The main thing is not to make a mistake with the slope angle so that winter precipitation cannot remain on the roof. Otherwise, it will be damaged.

Next, marks are placed in the form of a horizontal straight line on the wall or front side of the roof. A bar is fixed along this line to support the support at the top. The base below will be the crossbars or the edge of the wall. In order to protect the walls from precipitation as much as possible, the rafters are released beyond the edges of the walls by 25-30 cm. They are also strengthened with the help of metal corners.

The problem of tilting the roof is more difficult to solve when it is attached from the side where the slope of the main building is arranged. There is nothing to attach the crossbar to. To do this, they remove a little roof from the roof of the housing, and a truss system is attached to its beams. Then combine the total coverage.

It is desirable to know initially what material will be on top. For a soft roof or flexible tiles, plywood or a lattice structure is placed on the rafters. Roofing iron, metal tiles, slate and other large canvases are placed overlapping each other on the rafters.

Definitely need waterproofing. It is covered with plywood or fixed to the rafters. Next comes the top coat.

To unite the roofs, at the junction, the upper row of the self-built roof is placed under the lower row of the slope of the house. If the roof of the upper part of the roof borders on the wall or front of the roof, the joint seam is necessarily covered with waterproofing. When the roof is ready, they set to work to insulate the structure inside.

For a room in which they are supposed to live, good thermal insulation is needed. The ceiling is sheathed and well insulated. After that, they begin to work on the floors.

On the installed crossbars on a columnar foundation, transverse logs are fixed from smaller bars. A draft floor is arranged on them. To do this, the boards are placed in a continuous flooring. This will keep the heat out of the house. After the draft floor is smeared with a thick solution of clay. It should dry well. Then a vapor barrier film is laid on it.

Insulating material is laid between the lags. It can be mineral wool, expanded clay or slag. Then they cover with another layer of vapor barrier, and plywood is laid. Then any floor material can be laid.

Concrete can be insulated in the following ways:

Mineral wool is laid between the lags, which are fixed on a concrete base. All this is covered with boards or plywood.
Through the "warm floor" system. It is installed on a finishing screed
An infrared film is placed on a special reflective substrate, and then covered with a decorative coating
Using dry screed and gypsum fiber boards

When everything is finished with the floors, the walls begin to be insulated. Mineral wool is the most common material. It is produced in mats, which makes the work easy and takes little time.

On frame walls, cotton wool is placed between the frame bars and covered with a vapor barrier film, which is attached to the bars with brackets. Further, the walls are covered with a variety of options. For example, natural wooden clapboard, plywood, drywall.

Expanded polystyrene is also used for room insulation. But the quality is worse.

Brick walls are usually insulated from the outside. The inside is covered with plaster or drywall. But, if there is a lot of space, you can also insulate with mineral wool, and close it with plasterboard slabs from above. Already then paste wallpaper or some other material.

If you carefully study all the stages of the construction of an additional structure and follow the developed technologies, everything will work out correctly and efficiently. If you are unsure of your abilities and feel a lack of skill and experience in construction, you can entrust the work to professionals.

Video: Construction of an extension to the house from A to Z

Design

Material costs

Solving the housing issue with your own private house is much easier than in a city apartment. The best option is to make an extension that can be used for a variety of purposes:

a full-fledged living quarters - an additional room;
living quarters with an attic (if the extension is two-story);
utility room - its own pantry, which can largely replace the cellar;
a spacious terrace or veranda where you can spend your holidays with the whole family;
car garage.

Below we will consider the basics of technology and step-by-step instructions for creating an extension to a wooden house.

Before choosing a specific building material and technology for building an extension, it is important to clearly define the purpose of the room. It may be worthwhile to immediately plan the creation of an extension in which it will be possible to live all year round - in case of an expansion of the family or the arrival of a large number of guests.

Types of extensions

There are several types of extensions to a wooden house. They differ in material, as well as installation features:

frame extensions;
from a cylindrical bar;
from brick;
from cinder block.

Before erecting a structure, it is important to take into account all the nuances that may affect the choice of materials and a specific type of extension:

To make the right choice of a specific extension project means to correctly correlate the purpose of this structure, the features of the house to which it is attached, with the technology and material of manufacture. To do this, it is important to understand how each type of such structures is built.

Do-it-yourself frame extension: step by step instructions and video

The frame extension has several advantages:

the design is quite simple, and if everything is calculated correctly, it is quite possible to do it yourself;
it is built much faster than brick, cinder block structures;
the design is quite light in weight and does not require much effort during operation;
in terms of thermal insulation, durability and other consumer qualities, the frame extension to the house is not inferior to others types of structures.

NOTE. If you intend to build a two-story extension, you should consider this option - the structure is lightweight and will not create excessive pressure on the ground, so the risks of subsidence are noticeably reduced.

Preparation for construction

At the preparatory stage, it is important to solve the following tasks:

What will be the frame material - wooden beams or metal profiles.
What type of extension will be associated with the main building.
Accurately calculate all dimensions of the structure and develop a detailed drawing.
Collect all necessary materials and tools.

First of all, it is important to decide on what type the structure will be built - as a continuation of the house with an increase in the main roof for the installation of a single roof or as an adjoining building.

It is clear that the second case will be cheaper, easier and faster - the extension will simply adjoin the wall. You can make access from the house directly to it, if you make an appropriate hole and put the door.

The diagram of the adjoining structure to the house is presented below.

Structurally, this solution is a roof placed on supports. The roof is standardly presented from rafters and supporting boards. For a longer service life, it is desirable to insulate it, lay out a layer of waterproofing. The basis, as a rule, is the usual strip foundation.

Pairing with the main part of the house occurs at 2 points:

wall;
roof.

The connection in each of them has its own characteristics, which will be described below. A preliminary sketch of the extension, as well as practical advice that should be considered before starting work:

At the same time, for the roof of the extension, it is better to choose a material that is elastic enough to make the necessary corrections. You can purchase corrugated board (height within 1 cm) or soft tiles.

In this sense, slate or traditional ceramic tiles, metal tiles will not work.

The frame is made of wood or metal. At the same time, all parts should consist of only one type of material - then the extension is more reliable and lasts longer.

NOTE. Even if the house is in good condition, but old enough, the rate of its drawdown will be several times higher than the drawdown of the extension. Accordingly, it is better not to use a rigid type of abutment of the structure to the main wall. In this case, another type of installation is used - "groove-comb".

As for tools, no special equipment is required: it is important to have a screwdriver, a saw, pliers, a building level and other woodworking tools.

Installation work must be carried out by at least two people - some stages will require joint efforts.

Foundation laying

The first stage of work is laying the foundation. Since in the overwhelming majority of cases, during the construction of a house, the construction of a foundation for an extension is not provided, the foundation must not only be laid correctly, but also securely connected to the main foundation.

NOTE. If you are designing the construction of a newly built house, it is better to take into account the extension right away. It can be made after some time, and laying the foundation along with the foundation of the main building is a technically correct option. In this case, the house and the extension will be a single entity, which will ensure their reliability.

The main requirements for the base of the extension are as follows:

reliability - stable maintenance of the weight of the structure without subsidence: especially important for extensions made of heavy materials or two-story structures;
maximum identity with the main foundation in terms of material and depth of laying;
the most complete adhesion to the main foundation.

Most often, strip foundations are chosen for an extension, since they are quite capable of coping with such loads. At the same time, installation features always depend on the type of soil. It is possible to lay monolithic foundations, made of brick or concrete blocks, fill them with drainage materials.

Schematic diagrams of the bases are shown in the figure.

The technology for building a strip foundation for an extension does not differ from the usual one. In short, a trench is dug, reinforced and poured with concrete.

Connecting the foundation to the main

This is the most critical step. which needs special attention. Two types of connections are traditionally used:

"tape-tape";
"slab-slab".

According to the "tape-tape" type, the stages of work will be as follows:

From the installation side of the extension, a trench is dug corresponding to the depth of laying the main foundation.
Further, a hole half a meter in diameter is drilled at the base of the house - for the corners of the foundation of the extension. For all other parts, the hole corresponds to the diameter of the reinforcement at a depth of 2/3.
The reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the house, for this a wood wedge is used.
The foundation of the extension is formed along the driven reinforcement.

Installation according to the "plate-plate" scheme is possible in 2 cases:

the width of the main foundation allows you to carry out the appropriate work (from 450 mm);
the plate protrudes from the base (minimum 300 mm).

Thanks to the extension, it is often possible to solve another important task - to strengthen the old foundation and thereby support the sagging house. Visual video instructions:

Features of laying the foundation in the case of an old house:

Installation of the floor in the annex

Correctly making the floor in the future room is important from the point of view of 2 factors:

thermal insulation;
surface evenness.

It is important to make a quality floor, especially if the extension to the house will be used as an additional room with the possibility of year-round use.

The strip foundation allows you to mount both a concrete floor and make it out of wood. In the case of a columnar base, it is possible to produce only a wooden covering.

Concrete floor

The sequence of technology for laying this floor looks like this:

The concrete surface is quite cold, so this floor needs careful insulation, especially in the northern regions.

Wooden floor

On a columnar or strip foundation, a floor created on the basis of wooden floors is excellent. It needs additional treatment to prevent rotting, but wood flooring is much warmer than concrete.

The sequence of installation of a wooden floor looks like this:

If an extension to the house is being built as a permanent structure, then preparatory work is carried out for laying sand, crushed stone or expanded clay, as is the case with a concrete floor.
A ruberoid substrate is placed on the foundation.
Bearing beams are laid on it. If the foundation is columnar, then they are mounted directly on the poles, the length is cut in accordance with the interval. If the foundation is strip, it is important to install intermediate posts at a certain interval, or use long beams if the extension is small in area.
A wooden covering is mounted on the beams.

All wooden parts must be carefully varnished to prevent decay.

A good example of installing a wooden floor in a cinder block extension is shown in the video.

Frame installation

The next stage is connected with the direct erection of the frame structure. To do this, first of all, you need to install a strapping beam. If it is assumed that the wall thickness is 200 mm, then the dimensions of the end bar will be 25-40 mm, as shown in the detailed diagram.

The end result is a structure that looks like this.

Cutting a groove in the base can be done complete and incomplete. Can be articulated without punching using a steel angle.

The lower strapping is performed in several stages:

The socket is mounted in a frame.
The overlay is nailed into the base.
The support stand is attached with a bracket.

The upper trim is formed for reliable installation of floor beams, as shown in the diagram.

NOTE. The interval between vertical supports must be at least 50-60 cm, since in this case it will be easy to lay insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, ecowool, etc.). In addition, there is no practical need for a more frequent arrangement of racks.

The general design of the frame is shown in the diagram.

The walls are erected according to the following algorithm:

Installation on the foundation of a pre-made lower trim. The binding is screwed with dowels.

Between the strapping and the foundations, a waterproofing layer is necessarily placed - foamed polyethylene, roofing felt or other material.

Vertical bars are nailed to the wall of the house if the two structures are to be rigidly fastened. If you just need to build a nearby building, then corner posts with temporary fastening are first made.
Mounted vertical bars. Their height is selected depending on the number of storeys of the structure, as well as on the method of connection with the main roof of the house.
Next, the top trim is mounted.
The last stage in the installation is the manufacture of holes for windows and doors.

ADVICE. If it is planned to build a large extension with a large number of beams, then it is more convenient to assemble the frame separately by installing all the beams on the lower harness. In this case, there is no need to fasten each element with temporary cuts.

Assembly of the roof and its docking with the main roof

Installation of rafters is carried out in the same way as for a conventional roof, however, the need to connect the roof to the roof of the house gives rise to a number of features of this work.

In general, the finished structure can be schematically depicted as follows.

After the construction of the frame, the material of the roof of the house from the side of the extension must be dismantled so that the rafters appear. It is to them that the connecting rafters of the extension are mounted. Installation is carried out according to the principle of a rigid triangle, while it is important to put an additional beam in front of an acute angle (indicated by arrows in the figure). These elements also serve as an additional measure of protection during snowfalls, so they are also called anti-snow supports.

The sequence of actions for installing the roof can be briefly described as follows:

The rafters from the extension are mounted with the upper trim of the frame.
The upper end of the rafters is connected to the purlin, which is pre-installed on the roof or mounted directly on the roof rafters.

Video editing features

NOTE. It is not necessary to connect the rafters of the extension to the house in a rigid way. This can damage the structure due to uneven shrinkage rates of the main room and extension. The optimal solution to this problem is the use of a sliding structure that provides free movement of the lower support.

Roof finishing and insulation

At this stage, the roof is completely finished with its sealing and insulation, as shown in the diagram.

NOTE. If the roof of the extension will simply adjoin the wall of the house, and not organically connect with its roof, then a sealant is used for insulation, tightly closing the hole between the roof and the wall, as shown in the diagram.

Construction and wall insulation

One of the last stages is the construction of walls and their insulation. The extension is a durable structure, and even if it is used only for household purposes, it is important to create good enough insulation so that temperature changes cannot damage the internal surfaces of the walls and ceiling.

Schematically, the structure of the wall can be represented as follows.

In fact, this is the final stage of the construction itself. Next, the following work should be carried out:

finishing work inside the extension:
exterior cladding of the building;
creating a transition to the house;
production of windows and doors in the building;
all necessary communications.

It is important to treat all wooden structures with special solutions that prevent rotting and the harmful effects of temperature changes.

Timber extension

The principal stages of building an extension (filling the foundation, building walls and installing a roof, followed by insulation and finishing work) do not depend on the choice of a specific construction material. However, depending on it, their own technologies are selected, which differ markedly from each other.

Foundation construction

In the case of an extension from a bar (profiled or round), the differences begin already at the stage of laying the foundation. Since the weight of the future extension will be significantly greater than the weight of the frame counterpart, respectively, the base is required to be more reliable.

A tiled foundation or a pile foundation is often used, less often a tape foundation (for small outbuildings it is quite suitable). In any case, it is necessary that it be settled for at least 1 year.

From the point of view of simplicity and cheaper work, the best option would be to create a pile foundation that can be built independently of the main foundation of the house.

Video - the basics of pile foundation installation technology

Walling

Building walls is quite simple in terms of technology. The only drawback of the beam is that it is quite heavy, and at least two people need to work with it together.

Mounting materials are used as follows:

staples and plates made of metal;

brackets;
steel corners;
screws, screws, nails.

The technology of laying a round beam during the construction of an extension to the house:

Other works

The technology of building walls, insulation and finishing is not fundamentally different from that described earlier.

In the case of building a structure from a bar, two-story structures can be easily made. Of course, in this case, special requirements are placed on the foundation and floors.

Brick outbuilding

Brick extensions to a wooden house are built less frequently. They are great for living, they can also be used as a utility room.

Most often, in such cases, a monolithic foundation is used. At the same time, a brick structure can serve as the basis for the construction of a second floor of the same kind or an attic. Installation of the floor and roof technology does not have fundamental differences from those discussed above.

cinder block extension

And another cheaper and faster option for building an extension to a wooden or other house is from cinder blocks (foam blocks, gas blocks are also used). Such a room can serve as an additional room, but is most often used for household purposes.

The construction of a cinder block structure is very fast due to the large size of the building material. This option is great if the owners want to make a garage for a car or an ordinary canopy, a veranda.

And finally - a brief video review of the main stages of the construction of a frame extension to a wooden house.

How to create a frame extension to the house, the reliability of the construction of the foundation, walls, floor and roof. Stages of work, advice on insulation. Extension types.

Over time, the living area gets used and you want to expand it, for this case you will need a frame extension to the house, which will be a great solution. So that all the pitfalls do not bring problems, below is described in detail what the extension is intended for. How to choose the right foundation, features of creating a strip and column foundation. What to choose for the floor wood or concrete, how the walls and frame are erected. How is a reliable overlap and roofing. What is the literacy of floor and wall insulation.

What is the technological feature of the extension, what are the ways to install a frame extension to a wooden floor. Stages of building a frame house with your own hands. How to create a construction project, how an additional living room, kitchen or bath is being built, especially the installation of a veranda.

How to choose a frame extension to a wooden house, fastening to a wooden structure, the importance of finishing. What materials and tools are used, how the site is planned, how to choose the material for the floor: concrete or wood.

Appointment of the extension

When, for various reasons, it becomes necessary to expand the living space of a private house, the most economical and technologically simplest option is a frame extension. Its advantage is the speed of construction with your own hands with a minimum skill in working with a carpentry tool. Step-by-step instructions for the stages of construction will help to make a useful and beautiful extension that will last for many years.

So that the extension does not subsequently have to be transformed, even at the planning stage, you should consider the nuances of the design.

First, decide on the purpose of the new premises.

Additional room. The construction of an additional room is tantamount to building a house with a small area. All structures of the new building must be thoroughly insulated, otherwise the heating of such a room will be inefficient due to the large heat loss. You should not save on waterproofing and insulation of the foundation, otherwise dampness and mold on the walls will make it impossible to live in such a room.
Kitchen or bathroom. Take care of the engineering communications before you start building the foundation. The places where water or sewer pipes pass through the foundation must be well insulated. This is easier and cheaper to do at the construction stage.
Veranda is a light extension to the house of an open or glazed type. Used for summer holidays. The building is not heated, so the design is extremely simple: flooring, walls and roof on supports. Do not forget about harmony, the veranda should be combined with the house in terms of scale, style and construction materials.

We select the base

The veranda can be attached or built-in. If the second one is planned at the stage of building a house, then for the first one you will need to build a separate foundation. With a gap from the wall of about 40 mm. Otherwise, during shrinkage, the monolithic base will collapse due to the different weights of the veranda and the house. The seismicity of the soil and the weight of the future building are taken into account. A lightweight foundation erected on soil prone to heaving will “lead”, and the extension will move away from the house. Such a base is designed for light walls; shrinkage is inevitable under the weight of brickwork.

Different materials are used for construction: concrete, brick, stone, piles made of wood, metal or concrete.

It is important to choose the right depth and type of foundation for the extension:

tape;
slab;
columnar;
pile;
pile-grillage.

In private construction, when erecting a base for a veranda, a columnar or tape structure is most often used. Let us consider in more detail the step-by-step instructions for arranging the foundations.

Strip foundation

For large and heavy buildings, a tape type of foundation is chosen. It is advisable to perform it from concrete in this sequence.

With the help of twine and pegs, markup is made along which the trench will be dug.
The soil is chosen to the depth of the sole of the foundation of the house. Sand is poured at the bottom, rammed. A layer of crushed stone is laid on top, which is also compacted with a manual rammer.
Formwork is prepared equal to the height of the future foundation. Waterproofing is laid inside along the perimeter and welded reinforcement is installed on a layer of rubble.
A concrete solution is prepared in a ratio of 1:3:6 (cement, sand, crushed stone).
Pour the finished mixture into 1/3 of the formwork. After solidification, fill the remaining height. The solution is compacted with a vibrator to remove air bubbles. Or tapping with a hammer on the walls of the formwork.
The top is level. Cover with foil. While the solution is gaining strength, periodically wet the surface to prevent cracks.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeny

Ask an expert

Important. Before erecting walls on the foundation, it is necessary to apply waterproofing. Use roll materials or mastic.

Column Foundation

For a light frame veranda, it is appropriate to erect a columnar base, which is built of brick, rubble stone or concrete. Or a combination of these materials. Pits under the pillars are dug to a depth below the freezing of the soil. The step between the posts is about 60 cm.

Work sequence:

dig square holes 50 x 50 cm. Sand is poured into the bottom and carefully compacted;
a layer of concrete mortar is laid, and after complete setting, they begin to erect brick supports. Use the level so that the masonry is strictly vertical;
the concrete support is made in the same way as the tape type foundation: the inside of the formwork is wrapped with waterproofing and a reinforced frame is inserted. The form is filled with concrete, and the top is leveled. Wet concrete a couple of times a day to avoid cracking;
after complete drying, the formwork is removed, waterproofing is applied to the pole, covered with several layers of roofing material on top - the material will protect the wooden beam of the floor from getting wet;
the remaining voids are filled with backfill: soil mixed with crushed stone is poured, its ramming is carried out every 15 cm of the layer.

Floor: wood or concrete

A concrete or wooden floor is arranged on a tape type foundation. The base on the pillars is obviously calculated for arranging a wooden floor.

Consider both technologies:

Concrete. Inside the foundation, soil is selected to a depth of 35 cm. They equip a sand cushion, compact it well. Then you can fill it with rubble, but expanded clay is used to insulate the screed. Enough 20 cm layer. A reinforcing grate is laid on top. With the help of the level, beacons are set, along which a cement screed is subsequently poured. Lay tile or wood flooring on top.
The wooden floor is equipped on the floor beams, which are laid on the base on top of the waterproofing. The beam with the foundation is connected with through fasteners, anchors or self-tapping screws. In the corners they are connected with a direct lock and additionally fixed with corners. Next, lags are mounted, insulation is laid and flooring is laid.

Construction of the frame and walls

Wall structures are erected from timber, fastened to previously assembled crown beams of the strapping. Wall elements are assembled on a flat area in a horizontal position, and then the finished wall shield is mounted in a vertical position, or each beam is connected to the beam in series.

Step-by-step instruction:

On the lower strapping bars, every 50 cm, make a cut for vertical racks.
Mount the racks, fixing with corners and screws.
Assemble the top harness.
The veranda is connected to the house by attaching a vertical beam to the wall.
Fix all racks adjacent to the house with anchor bolts.
It is better to immediately sheathe the finished "skeleton" of the veranda from the outside with plywood, boards or OSB. This will give the structure rigidity.
After erecting and insulating the roof, insert windows and doors.

Covering and roofing

Shed type of roof is combined with almost any roof of the house, therefore it is the most common configuration. Let's consider it.

The rafters are installed at one end under the slope of the roof of the house, and at the other they rest on the wall of the veranda. Fixed with metal corners. The main thing is to accurately choose the angle of inclination.
The rafter legs should protrude at least 30 cm beyond the wall boundary. Such a roof overhang will protect the walls of the veranda from precipitation.
The issue of roofing is decided in advance. Usually choose the material with which the house is covered. Under the soft roof, solid material is laid on the rafters: plywood, OSB sheets or frequent lathing. Slate or metal tiles are laid on the rafters if the logs are installed in small increments.
The structure is covered with waterproofing, which is selected individually for the coating material.
Roofing starts from the bottom of the rafters.
For insulation, mineral wool is used, which is laid between the rafters. The ceiling is sewn up with boards or panels and decorated.

Wall and floor insulation

Mineral wool is used as an insulating material for walls. The mats are easily and quickly laid between the frame bars, as can be seen in the photo. When laying insulation in several layers, the mats are shifted relative to each other in order to exclude heat loss through the connecting seams.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeny

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

Ask an expert

The insulation is covered on both sides with a vapor and wind insulating material that will protect the material from the accumulation of moisture, and sheathed with a finishing material on top.

Internal walls can be sheathed with chipboard, drywall and covered with wallpaper or lined with clapboard. For the exterior wall, use wood, siding, or materials that match the finish of the home.

The wall cake towards the outer wall looks like this:

internal lining;
vapor barrier;
insulation material;
wind insulation;
outer lining.

The floor on wooden logs is insulated in the same way as walls: mineral wool is laid on the subfloor between the logs, having previously covered the boards with a waterproofing membrane. A second layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation, and then leveled with plywood. After that, a fine floor covering is mounted.

A concrete floor can be insulated in the same way as a wooden one, apply a dry screed, make a concrete screed and equip water or electric heating.

Home craftsmen often overlook the need to comply with safety regulations. Use personal protective equipment and a well-functioning reliable tool, and then you will have only the warmest memories from the construction of the extension.

Over time, the owners of private country houses and cottages with a year-round residence are faced with the need to increase the usable area of their homes. For example, one of the reasons may be the birth of a child or simply the desire for space, since the available area is too small. The frame extension in this case is seen as one of the best solutions. The features of the construction of such a structure, the procedure for its legalization will be discussed in this short article.

Extension Features

The big advantage of the frame extension is the possibility of its interface with a house built from any material, whether it be logs, bricks, blocks or bars.

The design features are generally presented in the diagram below, however, they are almost completely identical to the nuances.

How to make a frame extension to a brick or wooden house?

To build with your own hands, you will need some set of tools. The figure below shows a typical variant of such a set.

The presence of at least one assistant is also desirable, since a number of works cannot be done alone, and working with someone is always more fun.

Interfacing with the main house

Regardless of, due to the difference in the magnitude of the load that the cottage and the extension exert on the ground, there is still the possibility that over time they will move relative to each other. For this reason, experts strongly do not recommend a rigid type of adjoining an extension to an old house; it is more expedient to use an adjunction similar in principle to a groove-comb connection. To install it on the wall of the capital structure, you need to fix two beams, and install a vertical beam between them, which is an element of the frame wall of the extension. This type of junction will ensure the leveling of mutual movements. Of course, you can use a metal frame instead of wood, then all embedded elements will also be metal. Or you need to use a bolted swivel.

However, the connection of the extension is not limited to walls alone; it is also important to connect two roofs correctly. To do this, the rafters at one end must be docked with the upper trim of the frame, and at the other - fastened with the roof truss system of the old house. The crate under the roof is mounted in such a way that the junction of the old and new roof is between the elements of the crate.

As a roofing material, it is necessary to use only one that has a certain degree of flexibility, for example, soft tiles or corrugated board with a wave height of not more than 10 mm. But slate or ceramic tiles are no longer suitable for these purposes.

Step-by-step instruction

1. Installation of the foundation

The first stage of construction is foundation work. Usually, a separate foundation is arranged for the extension, which must be connected to the base of the old house with the help of special embedded fittings.

Of course, the most preferred option is the common foundation laid back at the stage of construction of the first house, however, few of our compatriots look so far, which, however, is quite understandable and understandable in everyday life. When laying, it is necessary to ensure maximum identity not only in shape, but also in depth of both structures.

If it is impossible to achieve full solidity, then a so-called expansion joint must be left between the two foundations so that when the soil moves in the spring, cracks do not form on the walls of the extension and at the very base.

Strapping - the second stage of the construction of the extension. The thickness of the walls of the skeletons is usually 20 cm. Living rooms are rarely placed in extensions, which makes it possible to reduce the wall thickness to 10 cm. Therefore, the diameter of the strapping beam and the cross section of the vertical racks will also be 10 cm.

The figure below shows a possible installation scheme for the lower trim of the extension:

When assembling the frame, the most attention should be paid to fastening the racks. The figure below explains its features.

The upper strapping is fastened according to the same principle as the lower one. The side view is shown in the figure below.

5. Sheathing and insulation of the ceiling

The ceiling, like the walls inside, is best sheathed with clapboard. This is the most favorable option from the price and aesthetic points of view. Pine lining will last at least 30 years, and even more with proper care. To insulate the ceiling in order to save money, you can use expanded clay, pouring it on top with a layer of 10–12 cm.

A possible installation option for the truss system is shown in the figure below:

The process of fastening the roofing material does not differ in any nuances, except for one: the upper part of the sheets should be under the roofing material of the main building. To do this, you may need to remove some of the fasteners. An approximate diagram of the roofing "pie" is shown in the figure below.

The ultimate goal of any construction work is the creation of a durable structure, in which it will be comfortable and cozy to live. The quality of the wall "cake" has the most direct and decisive influence on the achievement of this goal. When insulating the walls of a frame house or extension, you need to remember that properly installed steam and wind insulation is the key to a long service life without losing the performance of any type of insulation. If you forget about it, then the insulation will very quickly absorb moisture from the environment and become unusable.

If we consider the layers of the wall "pie" from the inside of the frame extension, then they should go in this order:

1. Inner lining,

2. Air gap (10–20 mm),

3. Vapor barrier,

4. Insulation layer,

5. Wind insulation,

6. Exterior finish.

As wind protection, you can use traditional roofing material or glassine.

The second option is more preferable, since it does not deform when exposed to high ambient temperatures. When installing vapor barrier membrane materials, it is necessary to place them with a smooth surface towards the thermal insulation layer, and a fleecy one towards the room. The villi do not allow condensation to form on them, which prevents excessive wetting of the insulation.

Insulation of the annex is one of the most important factors for a comfortable stay in it in the future. In fact, all the nuances regarding fully coincide with the features of the insulation of full-fledged houses built using frame technology. For insulation, you can use a variety of materials, both traditional and more modern: ecowool, sawdust, basalt mineral slabs, extruded polystyrene foam and much more. From the point of view of speed and ease of installation work, mineral plate insulation is still the best.
Such a heater must be tightly laid between the frame racks in several layers, but without kinks and pinches, which over time can lead to the formation of "cold bridges". An important feature in the course of work is the need to shift the joints between the plates relative to each other in adjacent layers. This principle must be observed not only when insulating walls, but also the ceiling and floor.

Possible mistakes

To complete and re-plan an existing structure is always more difficult than building from scratch, so you should once again pay attention to in the process of building a frame extension.

First and foremost, many inexperienced builders rely on factory processing of all lumber. However, this is wrong, all elements of the frame must be well dried and treated with fire-retardant impregnations before assembly. Window frames and doors must be installed strictly according to the level and fixed to the already installed vertical racks, that is, the dimensions of all openings must be calculated at the planning stage.

How to legalize an extension to the house?

When all the construction work on the construction of the frame extension is completed, many of our compatriots begin to think about the need to legitimize the resulting masterpiece of architecture. However, it is better to think about this before starting work, since the process of legalizing an unauthorized structure is a little more complicated, you will have to go to court, moreover, the result may not be in favor of the plaintiff and then you will have to demolish all the resulting beauty, and at your own expense. Of course, you can not go through the circles of bureaucratic hell and leave everything as it is, but this will entail the impossibility of selling, renting, bequeathing or donating the whole house, and not just an extension.

When applying to the courts, you will need a whole set of various documents, among which the most important are the following:

Certificate of ownership of the land;
Certificate of ownership of a residential building (cottage);
Help from BTI;
Permission from the housing and communal services organization;
An extract from the house book on the number of registered citizens in a residential building;
Frame extension plan;
House project;
Control survey of the extension on a scale of 1:500;
The consent of the neighbors, if the extension borders their site;
Act of the epidemiological service.

In some cases, you may need a photo of the site, living quarters and an extension to it.

The preparation of the statement of claim must be taken with all responsibility, since the process can be lost due to errors made in it. Most courts will provide an application form and help you fill it out.

After filing a claim, you need to wait for a response, which should be sent by mail. To make sure that the application is accepted, after 10 working days you can call back and clarify the information. It should be borne in mind that the judges have only 2 legitimate reasons for rejecting the claim: the existence of a court decision regarding the legalization of this building or an incorrectly drawn up document of claim. The second option is to reapply.

The municipality will become the defendant during the court session, and the owner of the house to which the annex is made, respectively, will be the plaintiff. When the court decides in favor of the plaintiff, he will need to obtain a payment receipt from Rosregistration for paying the state duty and make a payment, after which the owner will be issued all the necessary documents legitimizing the unauthorized construction.

As for other monetary expenses, approximately 10,000 rubles will be spent on collecting all the necessary information (consultations with lawyers, etc.), the price of the state duty is currently 500 rubles, 20,000 rubles is an entry in the Urban Planning Cadastre, about 60,000 more rubles will be required by specialists for judicial construction and technical expertise. Thus, in addition to direct construction costs, about 100,000 rubles will be needed for all bureaucratic delays.