Buying a cottage is an important event in everyone's life. I would like not to make mistakes, take into account and calculate all the little things so that in the future there is no need for finishing and reworking. A properly planned plot for suburban housing is the solution to many problematic situations.
In this article we will try to answer the question of how to competently make the layout of a personal plot with your own hands.
Exploring the area
Before you start planning your homestead territory, you need to carefully study its features, positive and negative sides. This information will allow you to most conveniently locate the buildings and zone the site.
It is optimal if the territory for the future dacha is flat, not hilly. But even a site with depressions and hills, in addition to the minuses associated with the difficulties created by the relief, also has its pluses.
A cottage located on a hill looks more advantageous. Below are more facts about the benefits of building a house on a hill:
- The high-standing building is naturally protected from flooding by heavy rains and floods.
- In a cottage built on a hill, the basement will never be damp.
- The construction of the foundation will take less time and will require less cost, since there is no need for an additional waterproofing layer.
In the beginning, you need to study the features of the soil - this is necessary in order to determine which types of plants and shrubs are preferable to grow on the site.
It may turn out that in order to achieve large yields, it will be necessary to perform reclamation or introduce a new fertile layer of soil, or maybe add top dressing.
Information about groundwater is useful in determining the best place to build a house. It will also help answer the question: is it necessary to carry out drainage, and which bushes and trees to choose.
In addition to all of the above, do not forget about the wind rose. Information about the wind load also significantly affects the layout.
Decide on the style of zoning the site
After studying the features of the summer cottage, it is necessary to decide which style to choose for it.
There are the following variations:
regular garden
This option is preferable if you plan to grow crops or fruits. This type of layout is characterized by straight paths and paths, right angles, a checkerboard or linear tree planting order, clear forms of flower beds, strict borders, as well as houses and buildings lined up along one axis.
landscape design
This breakdown is most suitable for a hilly area located on several tiers.
Distinctive features are curly, winding paths, asymmetrically planted plants, the absence of strict forms, smooth and streamlined lines.
Here you can not see strict turns, sharp catches and rectangles.
mixed style
This is a combination of the above layout variations. It is usually used for independent breakdown of the territory.
Divide the area into zones
The cottage has many purposes. Vegetables and fruits are grown on it, flowers are planted, and seaming is done. It is also a place of relaxation from the bustle of the city.
From this it follows that the site must have a play area for children, a gazebo and a barbecue for adults, as well as a place for a cot and a hammock. A strong half of humanity is not against arranging a workshop in the country.
From the photo of the layout of the summer cottage, it can be seen that it is customary to divide the adjacent territory into the following zones:
- Residential building.
- Recreation area.
- Commercial buildings.
- Garden and orchard area.
In some cases, a separate zone is allocated for access roads and paths.
The breakdown of the site into zones is conditional, it is based on the experience of planning country mansions. The size of the zones depends on the preferences of the owners and the planned use of the territory.
Usually, ¾ of the total area is allocated to accommodate a garden and a vegetable garden. Sometimes, on the contrary, most of it is allocated for a recreation area. All this is a matter of taste.
Anyone can plan the territory of their dacha. We hope that this article will help you with this. Good luck!
Photo layout of the suburban area
You have become the proud owner of a piece of land. Congratulations! But do not rush to plant it with your favorite fruit crops, berries, build a fence. The development of the site must be carried out according to the popular saying - hurry slowly.
After the purchase, before the development of the site, you need to perform a large amount of work on documenting the property. After all, the contract of sale is only the initial stage of entry into the property.
Start of property development
It all starts with the registration of ownership. The purchased land must be "staken out", that is, documented. This is necessary so that a small 5 cm in one direction or another does not become a big headache in the future for you or your heirs. Therefore, do not rush to dig, plant, build on the site.
- First, with documents certifying the purchase of the site, you must contact the cadastral chamber for registration. Get a cadastral number for the purchased property.
- Don't save! Conduct a survey of the site, even if it was bought from a previous owner with good neighbors who do not claim 10-20 cm of illegally occupied area. Conducting a survey procedure is necessary. The procedure will legally fix the boundaries and the area of a summer cottage or land plot on the ground.
- Having received these 2 documents, you will independently build the site, that is, limit it contourally on the ground. To do this, you need to properly fence the area. site. From the inside of the site, hammer in the poles (without going beyond the boundary line) and temporarily stretch the wire or mesh netting.
- Inspect the fenced area, calculate the material possibilities of its development and arrangement. Consult with the family on how to conduct work: in parallel with the construction of housing and other household buildings with gardening and gardening, do everything on your own and only in extreme cases resort to outside help or turn to the help of builders, landscape designers, and agricultural workers.
Preliminary site planning
In parallel with the documentation, you begin planning the site. Do not hurry! First read the requirements for observing the boundaries of buildings and landings in relation to neighboring areas. In the construction zone, residential landings are placed at a distance of 4-5 meters from neighbors or so that the maximum time the shadow from the house and other buildings remains on its own site. Trees along the perimeter of the site should be planted at a distance of 3 m, and berries 2 m from the neighboring land plot. Strawberries and garden plants 30-50 cm from the separating fence. When erecting a green hedge, it is necessary to select species that do not form numerous shoots on underground shoots so as not to clog the neighbor's site.
Mandatory zones
If you are new to landscape design, invite a specialist and listen to his advice. When planning independently, highlight the mandatory zones on the general plan, taking into account recommendations for observing the boundaries:
- economic,
- recreation area,
- garden berry,
- garden.
On the same plan, it is necessary to designate the routes of the general passage, water and sewer communications. The central, main entrance should be wide enough (to the garage, house), but not go far deep into the site, since you cannot use this land for other purposes.
On separate sheets of the plan-scheme (on a certain scale), plan the location of the zones, taking into account the occupied area. In the economic zone, mark the location of buildings (a house or a garden house, a garage, additional outbuildings (temporary change house), a workshop, a sanitary zone, including a toilet, a bathhouse, and others). The development of the site begins with the economic zone. The sanitary corner is located no closer than 15-20 m from the housing so (in the absence of permanent sewer communications) that toilet and bath waste does not get to the neighbors (especially to garden plots).
Development of the economic zone
The primary tasks are the installation of a water supply system or an artesian and a sewerage system with the installation of a toilet. Arrange living conditions. You set up a tent or trailer, a temporary warehouse for building materials, tools, and other auxiliary installations. Then, having a construction plan, you begin to import building materials, dig a foundation, etc.
Install a temporary warehouse for building materials, tools, and other auxiliary installations. © Sustainable selfbuild Development of the garden zone
On the next sheet of the plan, highlight the garden area. A garden, a berry garden and a vegetable garden can be located in a joint zone, broken in front of the buildings, on the side or behind, but the location of the plants should always go from north to south for better illumination. If all 3 types of crops are located one after another, then a garden is placed in the first section, whose low plants will not obscure the crops of the second plot (berry bushes), and they, in turn, will not create problems with lighting fruit crops. If the garden, berry garden and vegetable garden are planned to be located in separate parts of the site, then their placement in kind must comply with the following conditions:
- the plot for the garden and the berry garden should be located in an open sunny place with a high standing of groundwater. It is impossible to lay a garden in a lowland Cold air currents and excess water during spring floods will adversely affect crops,
- the garden plot should include a crop rotation with 5-11 crops, so that they get to their former place of cultivation no earlier than 3-5 years. The site should receive a sufficient amount of sunlight, be protected from drafts.
For the successful development of the garden and berry zone, it is necessary to carefully consider which crops will be placed on the allocated site, and place them on a diagram with the designation of species and distance from each other. When placing crops on the diagram, please note that the distance between fruit crops should be at least 3-4 m (3 m for dwarf or columnar varieties), between shrubs 1.5-2.0 m. In the garden diary, write down the names of fruit and berry crops and a brief description, and in the plan-scheme, indicate under the numbers their location on the site area.
Young orchard. © RedSun The layout of the garden and the rules for laying a garden are discussed in detail in the articles, and others posted on the pages of the Botanichka website.
Soil preparation in the garden area
You have already decided on irrigation water and sewerage, the main communication wiring has been completed, the plan has been drawn up, you can proceed to the general layout of the garden plot in kind. The top layer of soil from construction sites is immediately taken out to the "soil islands", that is, to the places of future plantings marked on the plan.
Carry out a horizontal layout, level the brought soil over the field. If the area is virgin, plow or dig it up and give soil samples to the nearest laboratory for physical and chemical analysis. Having the result of the analysis, you can begin to improve the site.
- If the soil is acidic, then deoxidize.
- There are many ways to reduce infestation: with and without chemical herbicides. During the first year, by provocative watering, cultivation, cause increased reproduction of weeds and, by burying them, reduce the overall infestation (mainly by annual weeds).
- If the soil is depleted, increase the general background of fertility by applying manure, bird droppings, humus, humus, mineral fertilizers, sowing green manure in several periods. These works are necessary. Don't rush into planting vegetables. Sowing and planting should be carried out in prepared soil, otherwise (especially with rare visits) you will collect a huge crop of inseminated weeds.
If necessary, improve the condition of the soil in the garden. © Langley middle school garden Making a site fence
Construction and horticultural work is underway in the designated areas. Completed water disposal, water and sewer communications. After the large building material (ceilings, etc.) has been delivered and placed, the construction of the fence can begin. The front part of the fence from the side of the entrance to the yard is better to build last.
Along the perimeter of the site, you can build a capital fence made of stone and other building materials and close it with decorative shrubs. It is possible to plant a hedge around the perimeter from decorative-deciduous and decorative-flowering tall shrubs (barberry, action, sea buckthorn and other crops). Prickly intertwining shoots will not only serve as a decorative decoration of the site, but also protect against the penetration of uninvited guests. The entrance zone to the site is one of the last to be drawn up. It consists of a gate and a concrete platform, decorated on the sides with small architectural forms, lamps, decorative borders, arches.
Arrangement of a recreation area
The arrangement of the recreation area is started last. Its dimensions, decor, list of facilities depend on the purpose of the land:
- a family resting place, where the maximum amount of space is allocated for a green landscape with decorative plantings, flower beds, alpine slides, mixborders, sports and other facilities: sandboxes, a dollhouse, swings, gazebos, gymnastic walls, a swimming pool, a pond with fish and aquatic plants,
- a place of permanent residence of the family with the arrangement of all household amenities, a greenhouse, a winter garden or a greenhouse, receiving guests,
- an ordinary dacha with a domestic area in the form of a country house, a garage and some other buildings. The main area in such a dacha is set aside for a vegetable garden area intended for growing environmentally friendly and anti-allergenic products used fresh and winter preparations. In this case, the recreation area is limited to a place for preparing exotic dishes (kebabs, barbecue) in the open air, a gazebo, a flower garden.
After arranging all the planned zones, regardless of the purpose of the land plot, it is necessary to equip working paths, on the sides of which to place narrow ribbons of flower beds or shrubs that do not lose their decorative effect after shearing. Decorate the site as a whole with ornamental plants located in different parts of the land.
When purchasing a previously developed site, the same zones are laid on the plan-schemes and a thorough inventory of building and living plantings is carried out in kind. A list of works, including the reconstruction of the backyard territory, is attached to each zone. At the same time, old, diseased fruit trees are to be cut down.
In order for the stumps to collapse faster, several holes are drilled in the stump, filled with ammonium nitrate and covered with a water-permeable material. Ammonia fertilizer corrodes the wood in a short time and the remains of the stump are already easy to release from the ground. If the stump remains in the recreation area or on the lawn by the pond, you can cut down the middle (to form a bowl), fill it with soil and plant flowering plants. Inconveniently located berry bushes, instead of cutting down, are transplanted to a new place. When developing the site, the planting of ornamental shrubs, trees, group plantations that give a unique individuality to the landowner is planted last.
Planning your summer cottage is very interesting, because you can come up with a bunch of all sorts of interesting solutions.
In order to beautifully and efficiently ennoble the territory, you need to have some knowledge.
Our article will help you step by step to complete the basic work and decorate your site.
Where to begin?
Before starting work, you need to make a plan. Reflect your site on it, sketch its shape, display all the buildings and be sure to take into account the terrain, streams can flow in such areas.
Consider also the location of your territory, whether your house is located in a lowland or on a hill. If the cottage is built under a mountain and streams enter the site, then its arrangement will take a lot of time and effort.
The layout of the territory implies dividing it into zones, this is a residential area, a recreation area, a garden and outbuildings. For each building, you need to allocate a specific place and set the area.
The residential area, that is, your house, should take up about 25% of the space of the entire territory, the toilet, bathhouse and barn should fit in 15-17% of the area.
The largest place on the site, as always, is reserved for the garden, which means that you can plant and grow berries, fruit trees, your favorite flowers, build an artificial reservoir, build a gazebo, in general, make the territory beautiful and ennobled.
The first thing that is built on the site is, of course, a house. Everyone builds it in a different place, someone in the center, someone likes the house to occupy the first line, right after the gate.
A gazebo or terrace is built close to the house, closer to the garden, so that during the rest you can enjoy the fresh air and the aroma of trees. The playground is also placed closer to the gazebo, it can be at its level or behind it.
The toilet, bathhouse and shed should take place closer to the fence. In this case, they will remain invisible on the site and will not take up space.
There is no single type of landscaping for a summer cottage, since everyone has different territories both in size and shape. The standard lot type is a square or rectangle.
On their territory, summer residents are very fond of creating rockeries from stones, plants and a reservoir.
Site planning is a creative and interesting process, but in order to make the cottage cozy and beautiful, it will not be out of place to look at some of the work of landscape designers.
We draw a diagram
After you have decided on the place of buildings on the territory, mark them on paper and sketch them. So, you will visually facilitate your work, and you will surely imagine what to place where, namely:
- Where the house will stand, from which side of the site the entrance will be.
- Place for outbuildings.
- Where will you put the gazebo and playground.
- Track direction.
- Place for flower beds and a pond.
- Communications.
Strictly observing the sequence of buildings, the main place on the site belongs to the house, then we build a garage, sheds, a bathhouse and a toilet.
Lastly, we choose a place for a gazebo, a barbecue area, a summer shower, etc. The garden and vegetable garden is given enough space, depending on what you plan to plant there.
Layout of the site depending on the size
Depending on how many acres the suburban area occupies, the location of the buildings should be designed.
If the plot is not more than 6 acres, then with proper zoning of the territory, you can build everything you need. A house on such a site will turn out no more than 20-25 square meters. m., parking - about 7 sq. m., garden - no more than 100 sq. m.
If your plot is large, from 12 to 15 acres, then this has a serious project on which you will have to work properly.
According to the standard plan, everything will be possible to build here, and even large objects, for example, the house here will be just huge, with a summer terrace and a spacious parking lot.
When developing a development plan for your site on your own, consider all the nuances regarding the construction and placement of summer cottages. Use a clear work plan and follow the advice of experienced craftsmen.
Photo of a successful layout of a summer cottage
How to make a plan for a suburban area?
First you need to determine the places for planting fruit trees, berry bushes and the construction of greenhouses. For greenhouses, and it is desirable to have two of them 12-15 m 2 in size, you should choose the most illuminated place on the east or south side of the future home. The shadow from the house should not cover the greenhouses either in the morning or in the evening, but it is especially important to have good lighting in the morning.
A large amount of manure is brought into the greenhouses, so it is advisable to place them closer to the entrance to the site. There is also a compost pile here.
What additional considerations should be taken into account when planning a site?
For the rational use of small areas, you should first allocate plots for fruit trees and shrubs, perennial vegetable crops, paths, recreation areas (with small architectural forms), a flower garden, a water tank, playgrounds.
Are there specific types of site planning?
More often used regular and landscape types. With a regular type of planning, straight lines predominate. The tracks are arranged perpendicular and parallel to each other. Fruit trees are planted in one line. Almost the entire area of the site is occupied by beds, garden and outbuildings. Only small areas are left on the site to put benches for rest. Such a layout is done, as a rule, by people who are practical and have little time to work on the site. Part of the site, occupied by concrete paths and passages between ridges, covered with sand or sawdust, does not require time for maintenance.
landscape type provides for winding paths, a scattered, as if random, arrangement of trees, groups of bushes, reminiscent of a natural one in a forest or park. The landscape type involves gardening in small volumes - the so-called kitchen gardens with a set of green and herbs. Irregularities of the site (with regular planning - a negative phenomenon) for the landscape type of the site are of the greatest interest. In a lower place a reservoir is arranged, on a hill - an alpine hill. Interesting solutions in areas with slopes, especially southern ones, the construction of terraces, ladders, retaining walls.
Is it possible to combine different types of site organization?
In the nineties, they began to allocate landfills and fields of agricultural enterprises for summer cottages. The plots were from 800 to 1200 m 2 . The plots are leveled, with a fertile layer with a thickness of 5-6 to 10 cm, heavy loam and clayey soil composition. In such areas, the main task in the nineties was the cultivation of products, primarily vegetables, potatoes, and berries.
The large size of the plot allows you to allocate zones for fruit trees, shrubs, a large garden, a zone with flowers, ornamental plants, you can plant pines, cedars, chestnuts. Horticulture, located near cities, due to the high cost of housing, began to turn into residential villages.
On the site there is a bathhouse, a garage, utility rooms, greenhouses with electric heating. Some houses are built on the east or south side of the greenhouse. They began to dig quite large ponds - up to 30-40 m 2.
Site layout options
Before each owner of a backyard, summer cottage or garden plot, the question arises of the correct placement of the garden on his site. The very word "correct" suggests that there are certain rules, norms or mandatory principles according to which the garden should be equipped. And some general principles, of course, can be identified - but it is precisely some. This is due to the huge variety of conditions in which the sites are located, and besides, the personal preferences of the owners are of no small importance.
At all should not blindly copy someone else's experience, especially if this is experience gained in another soil-climatic zone. But what about? What should beginner gardeners do?
Choosing a place for the garden
Let's start with a question that inevitably arises when planning: where to place a garden on the site, what part of the total area to allocate for it. After the simplest calculation of the need for vegetables (see), it usually turns out that it is enough to allocate a plot for a garden about 3 acres. More or less - will depend on the composition of the family and the desire to experiment with any cultures.
Under the garden allocate the sunniest place, without shading on the south side. Unlike the garden, which is located on the northern slope, it is preferable for the garden southern exposure. This is the case if the garden is only a garden. The garden plot is subject to certain requirements:
- high doses of fertilizers (both organic and mineral) are applied under vegetables;
- provide good air permeability to soils, for which baking powders are introduced in the form of straw cutting, straw manure, coarse-grained river sand;
- create optimal conditions for moistening, remove excess water through drainage or arrange watering with insufficient moisture;
- protect the site from the prevailing winds by planting ornamental or fruit trees on the windward side, but so that there is no shading - all vegetables are photophilous.
Recently it has become fashionable to arrange decorative vegetable garden. Here, vegetable crops also perform design functions, so they are already selected for their decorative qualities. But it's still exotic. If you are interested in the topic of an ornamental garden, read the articles on the principles of its organization from the list of recommended literature for the lesson.
It is undesirable to plant vegetables in the aisles of the garden, where there is shading, competition for water and nutrients, there is a danger of contamination of products with poisons used to protect the garden. Yes, and vegetables work best in open areas.
We place greenhouses and greenhouses
There are a lot of vegetable crops, and they are very diverse in their external characteristics and growing characteristics. The desire of the gardener to provide himself with early vegetables leads to the need to allocate an area for insulated soil. Now there is no problem in acquiring various greenhouses and greenhouses or materials for their independent construction.
In protected ground, heat-loving vegetable crops are grown in small quantities: tomatoes, pepper, eggplant, cucumber, vegetable marrow. To obtain early greenery in insulated soil, they are sown as compactors salad, dill, parsley and other herbs. To meet the need for early vegetables, 4-5 plants of each crop are usually sufficient.
The area under insulated soil is usually no more than 100 sq.m. But in areas with cool summers, growing heat-loving vegetables in the open field is problematic, and they are grown only under shelters. In this case, greenhouses are needed, and their area will already be higher - up to 300 sq.m and even more. Of course, it is better to grow unrelated crops separately, for example: cucumber with zucchini in one building, and tomatoes, peppers and eggplant in another. But if there are few plants, then it is difficult to implement, and not too necessary.
Dedicated to the features of growing vegetables in greenhouses next lesson- . There we will consider in detail all the important nuances.
We build beds
The beds are made in the spring, just marking the paths. The paths between the beds should provide free passage and the ability to get your hand from the path to the middle of the beds. As a rule, for this the track width should be not less than 40-50 cm. The length of the beds themselves can be arbitrary, and the width can be convenient for work: such that the hand can be freely reached a little further than the middle of the bed. This is necessary for manual work - sowing, weeding, harvesting.
Beds for individual crops (like greenhouses) are best placed with a long side from North to South- so the plants will be better lit during the day. The number of rows of plants in the beds is arbitrary.
Usually the beds are made rectangular shape. According to their device, they can be different. So, in the south they try to make them flush with the soil surface or even deepened, and in the center of the country and in the north - raised. The edges of the beds are usually not limited to the frame, but when arranging narrow ridges according to the Mittlider or warm steam beds, a frame is made of boards or flat slate, and other materials.
Various ways of arranging ridges: recessed or raised, in a frame, and so on - it is better to master gradually. For more information about what beds are, how to build them, what are the advantages and disadvantages of various options - read the articles from the reading list for this lesson.
Under large plants (with a large bush) or creepers make wide distances between rows - from 40 to 90 cm, and between small plants, on the contrary, the aisles are reduced to 15 cm or even less. The largest row spacings require pumpkins and climbing squash- more than 1.5-2 m;
- wide aisles are needed for tomatoes, pepper, eggplant, bush squash, beans.
- narrow aisles - for beets, carrots, green crops.
Schemes for placing plants on the beds:
- roots- 6 cm between plants in a row and 10-15 cm between rows; it is also convenient to place most of green and aromatic plants;
- nightshade support will be required for each bush; place them according to the scheme 50 × 50 or 70 × 70 cm;
- early cabbage placed according to the scheme 40 × 40 cm;
- late cabbage- according to the scheme 50 × 70 cm;
- cucumber: when growing on a support, leave 25-30 cm between the bushes; when grown without a garter, 60-70 cm are left between plants, and row spacing is increased to 90-120 cm;
- bush type squash placed after 40 cm;
- climbing squash- after 70-120 cm.
Soil Requirements
The garden area should be fertile. Vegetables were traditionally grown in rural courtyards, where a lot of organic matter was introduced into the soil, but in modern garden plots there is a completely different situation, additional reclamation measures may be required - for example, when groundwater is shallow, drainage is arranged with excess water runoff into arranged reservoirs or wells.
Usually, beginners just need to fertilize in the fall:
- organic(manure, humus, composts from organic waste) at the rate of 60-100 kg per 100 sq.m;
- mineral complex where there is nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (azofoska, nitroammofoska, foskamid, autumn and others) - up to 5 kg per 100 sq.m.
Gives good results sowing perennial grasses(lucerne, clover, sainfoin) for 2-3 years and their plowing. Instead of perennial grasses, you can plow annual herbs as green manure. These can be mixtures based on barley or oats with vetch or peas. Before plowing the grass, it is necessary to grind and apply nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers on top at the rate of 1-2 kg per hundred square meters.
Compost - good organic fertilizer
Fertilization of individual vegetable crops has its own peculiarities. So, organic matter (manure, humus, compost) is added under cucumber, zucchini, late and middle cabbage, and only humus or well-decomposed compost is added under tomato, pepper, eggplant. Only mineral fertilizers are applied under onions and root crops, early cabbage.
Dedicated to fertilizers and top dressings separate lesson: . You can also find more information in the reading list for this lesson.
What is crop rotation, why is it needed and how to organize it
You cannot grow the same crops every year in the same place. Specific pathogens accumulate in the soil, pests overwinter on plant residues, the soil is unilaterally depleted, harmful substances accumulate in it - decay products that are toxic to plants.To avoid these negative consequences, scientists came up with crop rotation- scientifically substantiated alternation of cultures in time and territory. In small areas it is difficult to apply full-fledged crop rotations, here they are more often used fruit cycle- alternation over the years of some crops with others.
During fruit change, one group of crops changes to another in terms of nutritional requirements. It is better if, after the crops under which organics were introduced, there are crops that make good use of decomposed organics, and after them - crops with predominantly mineral nutrition.
For example, like this:
- medium and late cabbage;
- tomato;
- carrot.
Or like this:
- cucumber;
- pepper, eggplant;
- beet.
Required for some crops early harvestable predecessor. For example, only cucumber, zucchini and greens are suitable for winter garlic, since garlic is planted in the fall, and it is also necessary to prepare the soil for it. Perennial vegetable crops are grown in open areas, where they can be more than 3-5 years in one place.
Details about the organization of crop rotation (fruit rotation) in the garden, favorable and negative combinations of crops, their correct alternation and other nuances are discussed. in one of the next lessons: .
Organization of watering in the garden
Vegetables are demanding not only for soil fertility, but also for providing moisture. Even in regions that receive sufficient rainfall, there are times when irrigation is required. Therefore, the site should be water source in the form of a centralized water supply system, a well or a container for several tons of water.
If a ground water are located closer than 60-70 cm from the surface, it is better to arrange their removal outside the site or into a drainage well. In arid regions, it is necessary to take care of artificial irrigation, creating a supply of irrigation water on the site in containers or pools.
You can supply water to the vegetable plot with a hose, a stationary pipeline, or using a drip irrigation system. It is better to choose a reinforced or corrugated hose that is resistant to kinks, lightweight polypropylene pipes that are UV-resistant, free-flow low-pressure drip lines.
But with any method of irrigation, it is necessary to determine water quality. Here it is necessary to find out the degree of mineralization, the presence of toxic salts, the pH value. Analysis can be carried out in zonal scientific institutions for agriculture or laboratories that control the quality of drinking water.
If the water meets the requirements, then it can be safely used for irrigation, but if the water is excessively saline, or contains toxic salts, or is very hard, then it is better to collect and use rainwater, use filters (which is of course expensive) - in any case, use it less.
There is rule: the toxicity of water is the less pronounced, the higher the content of organic matter in the soil.
Determine landing time
Each crop is sown and planted at its own time. If it is possible, then insulated soil is very often used to extend the time for the receipt of the crop: various types of greenhouses, greenhouses. Various films and non-woven materials are used as a translucent coating, and seedlings of heat-loving crops are planted in such facilities: tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, cucumber and zucchini, as well as such cold-resistant crops as early cabbage, cauliflower, Beijing - to obtain earlier products.When using insulated soil, it is important that the seedlings are not only of high quality, but also certain varieties and hybrids, capable of recouping as much as possible the cost of structures and films.
Also, vegetables can be sown directly in open ground or planted seedlings. Green crops are usually sown first in the ground, followed by carrots, onions, beets, and then seedlings of heat-loving crops and cabbage are planted.
Selection of varieties- it's complicated. It is better to focus on the assortment recommended for a particular zone. There are many options and each has its pros and cons. We talked in detail about how to choose varieties of vegetables for your garden.
How to care for a vegetable garden
Garden care is loosening row spacing- usually after rains, waterings or fertilizing. As the plants develop, the loosening depth will first increase and then decrease so as not to damage the growing roots.top dressing carried out to correct nutrition. It is better for them to use special brands of complex water-soluble fertilizers containing 5-7 trace elements. When applying fertilizers, the enclosed instructions are usually followed.
There is also a need for protection against pests, pathogens and weeds. The use of herbicides - means of weed control, in small areas is impractical. Still, they are not safe, and it is difficult not to damage the cultivated plants themselves. Manual weeding remain the most effective means of weed control.
Among plant protection products there are not only chemical, but also biological, and they should be given preference. But in the fight against especially dangerous diseases and pests, chemical protection should not be neglected. At the same time, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the regulations for the use of plant protection products, not to exceed the dose and not to shorten the waiting period - the time during which, after processing, it is impossible to work with plants and use products for food. This will be discussed in detail in one of the following lessons -.
Vegetable crops are divided into single collection and multi-collection. For multi-collection, continuous flowering and crop formation are characteristic. In crops such as tomato, pepper, eggplant, zucchini, cucumber, fruits are harvested as they reach removable maturity. Their yield increases with regular harvesting. Cabbage, root crops and onions are harvested once, when fully ripe. Many cultures practice a combination of periodic collections and one-time cleaning. In dill and lettuce, for example, you can first pick off part of the leaves, and at the end of the removable maturity, the whole plant.
Gardening is a fascinating business: as you master some issues, new, even more complex ones appear. This process is creative and akin to art.
