I think that many gardeners want to know about growing watermelons on their own. land plots as much as possible. Because many try to grow watermelons, in the hope that they will grow a huge, juicy sweet watermelon, but in practice the fruits are small and not sweet.
After such bad experience someone abandons this business, but others do not give up and begin to look for information about how to grow watermelons in their area, for example, in the Moscow region, in Siberia, in the Urals, in the middle lane.
They are also looking on the Internet about growing watermelons in a greenhouse, in open field, seedlings and much more are entered into the search engine, looking for the necessary information. Therefore, I have collected in this article all the basic recommendations about growing watermelons from start to finish and I hope that this information will be very useful to you.
Well, the introduction is over, let's get down to business.
What is the first thing you need to know in the agricultural technology of growing watermelon?
Watermelons are very fond of heat and dry summers. If it rains constantly in the summer, then good watermelon you won't succeed. There's nothing you can do about it, it's such a sunny berry. Of course, you can plant special hybrids that feel good even during the rains, but their taste will still be far from real steppe watermelons.
Why do watermelons soak up so much juicy moisture in their fruit?
The fact is that watermelons form powerful roots that feed the plant itself. So, in order for these roots to develop well and penetrate deep into the depths, lungs are needed, sandy soils. In dense soils, the roots are not able to develop well and the plant does not grow well.
And one more important condition for growing watermelons, regardless of whether you grow them in the Moscow region, in the Urals or in Siberia, watermelons suffer terribly from weeds. Especially when they are just starting to grow. You can lose your crop several times due to these weeds, so you need to weed your garden in the country on time and with high quality.
If you follow these three rules, then you will definitely have a harvest. Maybe it will not be watermelons of 20-25 kg, but they will still be big, juicy and sweet.
What else do you need to know about the technology of growing watermelons in open ground? 
Good watermelons cannot be obtained from bad seeds, so you should purchase watermelon seeds from trusted suppliers. If the soil is not light enough, then you need to loosen it deeply.
When to sow watermelon seeds? It depends on the weather. Perhaps it will be the last week of April or the beginning of May. In general, you can sow some varieties until June 20, then you will get a late harvest, but also good quality.
Watermelons are not grown after watermelons, but rather after alfalfa or winter crops.
So that the crops sprout together, sow them at the same depth - 7-8 cm. Seed consumption is 6-10 pieces per running meter. It is better to sow thickly at first, but then you will not have to sow the seeds in those places where they did not sprout. Many believe that it is necessary to sow old seeds, not fresh ones. But the fact is that old seeds simply give more female flowers, which means that more fruits will be tied on them, but these will not be watermelons, but watermelons. And why do we need this? We want big watermelons!
How to prepare seeds for sowing?
First, we warm the dry seeds in the bag in the sun, so that it reaches 55 degrees. If the seeds are wet, then no more than 30 degrees should be. Then for half an hour they fill it with water and throw everything that comes up. Then pour hot water 50-60 degrees. Cool, drain the water. Then soaked until pecking for manual planting. If it is not possible to warm the seeds in the sun, then store the seeds from February near the battery. Seeds can be treated with a dark solution of potassium permanganate (15-10 minutes and rinsed), and then treated with an ash solution (for the night).
Growing watermelons in a greenhouse
Some are growing watermelons in a greenhouse. Experiments on grafting seedlings of watermelon to pumpkin are interesting, thus, ultra-early watermelons are obtained. Also, the yield increases by 4 times. True, it is problematic to grow such seedlings, but in a greenhouse from a smaller area you can harvest a decent crop.
What varieties to choose for growing watermelons?
If you want to get a harvest already in early July, then sow early hybrids Helen, Trophy, Dolby under the tape. Such varieties as Producer, Crimson give a harvest by mid-July, but this is if sown under a film. Outdoor cultivation of watermelons of these varieties will give you a harvest by the first decade of August. By mid-August, Nice and Extraordinary varieties will ripen. And the variety of watermelon Kholodok will ripen by the end of August. More good varieties for outdoor cultivation, these are Lada, Lesya, Slavia.
The scheme of sowing watermelon seeds
Row spacing 2 meters. In a row, 5-10 seeds per meter are sown. In the future, the strongest seedlings are left 1 meter between plants. So, I repeat, we make a hole 8 cm deep. We pour 1-2 liters of water there. We wait until the water is completely absorbed, put the seeds flat and fill the hole with earth and trample the hole a little. In no case do not water the hole after this, because a crust will form and all moisture will evaporate.
How to water watermelons?
Yes, actually, no way. Watering is needed only at the very beginning for friendly seedlings, and in the future, if you water, then root system will not develop and go deep, which means that in extreme heat it will not sufficiently nourish the bush. On the other hand, you can pour three buckets per square meter every two weeks. Then the yield will be much greater, but the taste of watermelon is worse, and they can crack due to watering.
When the fruits are imposed, they should be protected from crows. They gape, the crows will ruin the harvest in an instant.
How to check watermelon for ripeness?
Usually in the garden, the ripeness of a watermelon is indicated by the drying of the tendril of the offspring and the leaf opposite it, the so-called spatulas. For some varieties, drying out and the next mustache is necessary. But it happens that such an indication of the ripeness of a watermelon is not good. It may be that the mustache is still green, and the watermelon is already ripe. Therefore, for some varieties of watermelon, ripeness is determined by a bright spot on the belly. When buying a watermelon, it is believed that a ripe watermelon is one that has a dry tail, but in fact, watermelons are harvested even with a green stalk, and dry means that the watermelon has been lying and drying for some time. A watermelon will also be sweeter if it is slightly crooked, depressed or square.
Now let's separately highlight how it is necessary to grow watermelons if you are in the Moscow region, in Siberia, in the Urals or in the middle lane, i.e. in the area where there may be a lack of light, heat, it rains and not quite suitable soil:
We select special watermelon hybrids suitable for your area.
We grow watermelon seedlings, preferably grafting it onto a pumpkin.
We loosen the soil very deeply.
We plant under the film, protecting from cold snap.
We destroy all weeds.
We are waiting for the harvest.
That's actually the whole technology of growing watermelons. Great harvests and sweet watermelons to you!
The issue of growing watermelons in the country is becoming more and more relevant. This berry is a storehouse nutrients. It contains vitamins and minerals that are useful in diabetes, diseases of the cardiovascular system, liver and kidneys, not to mention the fact that this is just a very tasty fruit. Like everything else, a watermelon grown on your own plot will be much more useful than a store-bought one.
Did you know? Watermelon is not exactly a berry, more precisely, it is the fruit-berry of a watermelon vegetable. An example of such a berry is a tomato. This fruit is the berry of the tomato vegetable.
How to grow watermelon seedlings
As you know, if you plant watermelon seeds in open ground too early, then you will not be able to harvest - the seeds will simply rot due to insufficient soil temperature, and if it is too late, they will not have time to ripen before the end of the warm period. The way out for our climate will be the selection suitable variety or hybrid, followed by planting seedlings.
Growing in a greenhouse
Since watermelons love light, there should be no trees and bushes near the greenhouse. Seedlings will stay here for about a month before planting watermelons in open ground. During this time, seedlings should not be affected by cold air, so eliminate this possibility in advance. Work should begin in mid-spring. Prepare a suitable substrate. In the first option, take the ground for seedlings and humus (1: 3) and add fertilizers with nitrogen and potassium (one spoon each) and three tablespoons of fertilizers with phosphorus. In the second option, add about a spoonful of potassium sulfate and a glass of wood ash to a bucket of earth.
In order to properly grow watermelon seedlings, first select suitable seeds. To do this, drop them into brine. Sunken seeds are ideal for sprouting. Rinse them with water, then soak for half an hour in a solution of manganese and dip in water again. Now leave the seeds in for 10-30 minutes. hot water(temperature around +50-55°C), and then germinate to the stage of "pecking".
The next step is to plant them in separate, half-filled containers (about 10 cm across) to a depth of 2 to 4 cm. Before germination, maintain the desired temperature:during the day at the level of +23-+25°C, and at night - +18°C. After the sprouts appear, for 4-6 days it is necessary to reduce the temperature to a constant value of + 18 ° C. In the future, keep the temperature at + 20- + 25 ° С during the day and + 16- + 18 ° С at night.
Make sure that there is enough space between the containers and that the plants do not touch the leaves. Provide adequate lighting: use lamps for 12-14 hours daily. Water the seedlings only with warm water, not often, but in large quantities. Try not to hit the leaves.
When 10-12 days remain before planting, start hardening the seedlings and open the greenhouse for 1.5-2 hours, gradually increasing the number of hours. Before planting, you need to leave the greenhouse open for a day.
Important! When planting in soil, lay the seeds on their side. This will make it easier for the sprout to come out of the shell, but you do not need to cut the seeds. Do not pinch seedlings.
Growing at home
Growing seedlings at home is almost no different from growing in a greenhouse. You need the same substrate and the same seed preparation. Only, after planting in pots, they should be covered with a plastic film, and after germination, it is better to put the sprouts on the southern windows, where there is more light. There is also no difference in the required thermal and light conditions.
Before planting in open ground (for 7-10 days), seedlings should also be hardened, for this you need to ventilate the plants and lower the temperature to + 15- + 17 ° C during the day and + 12- + 15 ° C at night.
Choosing a place for planting watermelons
It is very important that the place for planting watermelons is well lit. Light, sandy or sandy soil is more suitable for the plant, neutral or alkaline is better. The south, southwest of the plot will do. Due to the characteristics of the root system, ground water should go pretty deep. Also take care of protection from cold winds.
Important! Well, if in front of watermelons, legumes, winter wheat, cabbage or corn grew on the territory. It is not advisable to plant them after melons, tomatoes or cucumbers.
How to transplant seedlings in open ground
The technology for growing watermelons in open ground provides for fertilizing the soil since autumn, for which humus or other organic fertilizer (well-rotted) is used. In the spring, it remains only to dig the site well (at least 30 cm deep). You can also create beds with a slope to the south, 15 cm high. Place the holes, a meter in diameter, at a distance of about one and a half meters from each other.
When the time comes without night frosts (usually this is the end of spring), and the plants have already formed 3-4 leaves, you can transplant seedlings into open ground. Pre-moisten each hole and only after that place a plant with an earthen clod there, dig in, but the cotyledon leaves should remain on the surface. For some time, before recovery, the seedlings should be shaded.
watermelon care rules
After transplantation, follow simple rules to care for the plant, then it will delight you with a rich harvest.
Temperature and lighting
Watermelon is a thermophilic plant. For active life, fertilization of ovaries, the temperature should not be lower than + 25 ° C. Already at + 15 ° C, development slows down, and with a sharp cold snap, the plant can get sick and even die. In such cases, the previously mentioned melon protection film is also used. Not less than an important factor is lighting - don't shade the plants. Cloudy weather can make pollination more difficult. In this case, just touch some flowers to the stamens of others.
Humidity and watering
To properly care for watermelons, you should not water them often, but watering should be plentiful. During flowering, the introduction of liquid should occur approximately once every 3-4 days, and with the beginning of the ripening of berries, in order to obtain juicy fruits, soil moisture should be reduced to 70-75% and watering should be stopped (except for the absence of precipitation More than a month). Watering is carried out along the grooves, the water should be warm.
soil fertilization
After planting, wait two weeks, and then feed the plants with ammonium nitrate, liquid mullein or chicken droppings. The next time fertilizers are applied during the formation of buds. Take calcium chloride, ammonium nitrate, superphosphate in a ratio of 1:1:1.5.
When to Harvest
Usually, watermelon ripens 30 days after the formation of the ovaries. The drying of the bract, the fall of the hairs of the peduncle, the glossiness of the bark will tell you about its maturity. Also pay attention to the color of the pulp and seeds. It is characteristic for each variety and will help determine the state of the first maturity.
Watermelons are harvested selectively, as they ripen, but they complete the harvest before the onset of frost.
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Site selection and land preparation for watermelon
You need to choose a place for mini-melons in the garden since autumn. The best predecessors of watermelons are perennial grasses, winter wheat, corn for silage, annual legumes, as well as onions, cabbage or potatoes. perennial herbs, as a predecessor, contribute to an increase in the yield of watermelon even more than a natural fallow. Crops of perennial grasses well restore soil fertility, contributing to a greater accumulation of mobile forms of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Perennial herbs also help prevent Fusarium wilt and other plant diseases, which ultimately ensures a high yield of watermelons.
But growing watermelons after nightshade and pumpkin crops is not recommended. And in order to avoid the accumulation of the causative agent of Fusarium and other pathogens in the soil to the maximum, it is necessary to strictly observe crop rotation. You can return a watermelon to its original landing site no earlier than after 7-8 years.
For sowing watermelons, you need to choose areas that are well lit and heated by the sun. Light sandy and sandy soils are most favorable for watermelon, and optimal acidity soil for watermelons should lie in the range of 6.5-7.0. Watermelons are best grown in holes. To get good yields, two buckets of humus from compost or perennial humus (from chicken manure or cow dung) and sand (especially if the ground on the site is heavy). By mixing the components in the hole right on the surface of the soil, you can leave everything without digging until spring. It should be noted that in order to obtain high yield Magnesium is an important nutrient in watermelons. Therefore, since autumn, it is also recommended to apply magnesium fertilizer at the rate of 50 g of active magnesium per 10 m².
In the spring, when it is already getting warm enough, it is necessary to deeply dig or plow the intended areas for the holes with a cultivator, while trying to walk as little as possible along the melon area so as not to compact the soil. Deep digging of the earth to a depth of 30 cm creates Better conditions for root development. At the same time, holes are formed with a diameter of about a meter, and the free space between the edges of adjacent holes should be within 1.5-2 meters.
At the same time for 1 hole or 1 square. meter beds (with a different type of planting) should be made 1 cup wood ash, 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska and 1 tablespoon of superphosphate. And if manure or compost has not been introduced into the soil since autumn, then a few days before planting seedlings, it is imperative to add 2 buckets of rotted manure to each hole. After completing all preparatory work it is desirable to cover the bed plastic wrap to warm the soil with sunlight, which will create the most optimal hydrothermal conditions for the roots of seedlings at the time of planting.
It should be remembered that the doses of mineral fertilizers, as well as organic ones, need to be adjusted depending on the content of the corresponding nutrient element in the soil in your area. This is especially true for nitrogen, since with its excess, the amount of nitrates in the product increases, and as a result, its taste and keeping quality of fruits deteriorate. Note that the most important biological feature watermelon is a genetic propensity to accumulate in its fruits a large number nitrates (with unbalanced and excessive application nitrogen fertilizers). Therefore, in the case of the use of high doses of nitrogen and organic fertilizers, the fruits can also become hazardous to health.
The seeds are planted one at a time to a depth of 2-3 cm, after which we cover them with glass or polyethylene so that a dry crust does not form on the surface, which prevents the appearance of a sprout. With an excess seed material 2 seeds can be planted in one cup: one may not sprout, and if both have sprung up, then the weaker or defective one must be cut off (you can’t pull it out so as not to damage the roots of the remaining plant). Sprouts usually emerge from the ground in 3-4 days. Remove the protective film and put on the pot in a sunny place.
If you follow certain rules, you can get a good harvest of watermelons in your garden or in the country. This crop requires a long and warm summer. You can plant watermelons in open ground in all regions of Russia, with the exception of Siberia.
Care striped berries should include watering, thinning, fertilizing, loosening the soil and pruning. Watermelons are prone to diseases such as powdery mildew, olive blotch, and rot. In case of infection, watermelons are treated with fungicidal preparations.
Features of growing different varieties
The plant is native to Africa. The culture belongs to the Pumpkin family. The stems of the watermelon are thin, strongly branched. They are curly or creeping. They can reach 4 m in length. Young leaves have a thick pile. Then they become rough, hard, have an ovoid-triangular shape. In length from 7 to 23 cm. Inflorescences are female, male and hermaphroditic. They are boat shaped. The fruit is a berry large quantity seeds. The flesh is usually pink or red, and outer shell green (usually with light stripes).
There are many varieties of watermelon, but all of them are conditionally divided into 2 types - woolly watermelon and African melon tsamma (wild species).
All varieties are divided into 3 groups.
Early ones include:
- Skorik.
- Victoria.
- Twinkle.
- Dolby.
- Stabolite.
- Jenny.
Mid-season are:
- Ataman.
- Sluggard.
- Top gun.
- Atey.
- Dumar.
Late ones include:
- Spring.
- Icarus.
Currently, even varieties have been bred in which the fruits have a lemon flavor and the flesh is yellow. Black-skinned hybrids also exist.
In the Moscow region, you can grow the following varieties:
- 1. Skorik. The fruit is in the form of a ball weighing no more than 3 kg.
- 2. Light. The harvest is stable, but small. Usually the weight is up to 2 kg.
- 3. Crimson Sweet. It translates as "raspberry sugar". Among early maturing varieties fruits are the largest - up to 8 kg.
- 4. Couch potato. Fruits up to 4 kg. They have a fairly long shelf life - up to 3 months. Thanks to this, you can even enjoy such a watermelon on New Year's Eve.
In Siberia, watermelons can only be grown in greenhouses. They must be strong. Suitable for polycarbonate or glass. In addition, another feature of growing watermelons in Siberia is that only the seedling method is used here, and seeds cannot be placed in open ground.
The most suitable varieties of watermelon for Siberia are as follows:
- 1. Chill. Good resistance to low temperatures. The variety is early maturing. The growing season takes no more than 100 days. Fruits by weight up to 7 kg. The pulp is juicy and sweet. Another advantage is the long shelf life of the berry - up to 1 year. Rozhai has good transportability.
- 2. Ultra early. This variety is considered quite early. Its growing season lasts up to 2.5 months. The pulp of the berries is sugary. They weigh 4-5 kg.
- 3. Photon. This is mid-early variety. It takes 80-100 days to mature. The plant is not demanding on the soil, is resistant to diseases, the number of seeds in the berry is small, and the pulp is tender. The weight of the fetus is 3-6 kg.
- 4. Charleston Grey. The variety is recognizable elongated shape large fruits. They weigh up to 10 kg. In care, the culture is unpretentious.
- 5. Siberian Lights. This variety is bred specifically for areas with harsh climatic conditions. The plant is resistant to low temperatures, lack of lighting and drought. Culture almost never suffers from Fusarium. The bark of the berry is dark, without stripes. There are few seeds. Fruit weight - up to 4 kg.
- 6. Siberian Giant. This is another variety that is bred for northern latitudes. It is characterized by frost resistance, large size (the fruit weighs up to 7 kg), long shelf life.
- 7. Ultra-early. Fruits are stored for a long time. The plant is resistant to powdery mildew and anthracnose. Culture is unpretentious in care.
Landing Rules
You can breed watermelons through seeds and seedlings. The first option is suitable for regions with warm climatic conditions.
Sowing seeds should be done in the spring as follows:
- 1. Select a site. On it, the soil should have time to warm up to 13 0 C.
- 2. Soak seeds in clean water until sprouts emerge.
- 3. Make a hole in the area. They should be 10 cm deep. The distance between the pits should be 1 m.
- 4. Place fertilizer in the hole. It is recommended to mix humus with 1 tsp. ammofoski and 1 tbsp. l. wood ash.
- 5. Put the seeds there and sprinkle with the substrate.
The first shoots usually appear after 1.5-2 weeks. If you plant watermelon seeds in open ground in regions with a cold climate, then you must wait until the end of May or the beginning of June. You can also carry out landing under the film - a kind of greenhouse. In this case, the harvest is obtained much earlier. Some prefer to cover the space between the wells with black film. It attracts Sun rays prevents rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil.
Another method is seedling. It is suitable for northern regions.
Landing is carried out as follows:
- 1. Properly prepare the substrate. It is recommended to mix peat, fine sand and soddy soil.
- 2. Pick up pots. They should be large and wide. At the bottom you need to make holes to drain excess water.
- 3. Place watermelon seeds in special containers. It is recommended to do this in late spring. Keep containers in a warm place with a temperature of about 30 0 C.
- 4. Take care of the sprouts. Water seedlings periodically. It is necessary to ensure that water does not fall on the seedlings. If necessary, you need to turn on additional lamps to improve lighting.
- 5. Carry out hardening. This should be done 2 weeks before planting sprouts in open ground. It is necessary that they get used to such conditions. To do this, the container with planting material should be taken out for 1-2 hours on the street or on the balcony. Gradually, you need to increase the interval - add an hour every day.
Mandatory is preliminary preparation site before moving seedlings to open ground. The soil should be well warmed, loosened. The place should be chosen with protection from strong wind and draft. Watermelon seedlings feel best in those areas where legumes, alfalfa, and cabbage were previously grown. You should not choose a place where eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes used to grow, bell pepper. The ideal option is sandy or sandy soil. It is necessary to add potassium compounds and superphosphate to it. If the soil is too heavy, then fine river sand is added to it.
Planting watermelon sprouts in open ground is as follows:
- 1. Dig holes. The distance between them should be 1-1.3 m. Between the rows, 1.5-2 m should be left. It is recommended to place the sprouts in a checkerboard pattern.
- 2. Deepen the seedlings into the holes and sprinkle with the substrate. Leaves should remain on top.
- 3. Pour sand near the seedlings. It will prevent diseases such as root rot.
- 4. Water the seedlings.
In the future, it remains only to care for the culture.
Nuances of care
Watermelon care is as follows:
- 1. Thinning sprouts. As soon as they appear, a part must be pulled out - only the weak or sick. If a healthy seedlings sprouted too close to each other, then they can be seated in different places.
- 2. Watering. It should be timely and regular, once a week. For 1 sq. m plot relies on 3 liters of water. It should be poured not only under the root of the plant, but also in places between the rows. It is best to use rainwater or settled water at room temperature. During the heat, it is required to water the culture twice a week. When the fruits begin to appear, watering must be gradually reduced, and 2 weeks before the berries are plucked, it is completely stopped.
- 3. Loosening the soil. This must be done the day after watering. By loosening the soil, the roots gain access to oxygen. At the same time, weeds can be removed. Grass is not dangerous for watermelon, as its root system is quite branched. Weeding should be done carefully so as not to damage it.
- 4. Top dressing. The first time it should be carried out 2 weeks after planting the crop. To do this, use chicken manure, mullein or ammonium nitrate. As for the last substance, you will need 20 g of product per 2 liters of water. This is enough for one shrub. If you use mullein, you will need to prepare a solution in a ratio of 1:10. When using chicken manure, it is required to make a solution in a ratio of 1:10. For each bucket of such solutions, it is supposed to add another 15 g of double superphosphate and the same amount of calcium chloride. The second time feeding should be carried out when the fruits begin to set. In this case, it is recommended to use superphosphate and ammonium nitrate. You can mix 4 g of calcium chloride and ammonium nitrate with 3 g of double superphosphate. This is enough for 1 shrub. Fertilizers are supposed to be applied in the form of a powder, but then you need to water the culture. The mixture can be dissolved in water.
- 5. Cropping. On one bush you need to leave no more than 5-6 fruits. They should be the largest and healthiest looking. The rest will have to be cut off, otherwise all the fruits will not be able to develop fully.
As for diseases, watermelon suffers from the following:
- 1. Powdery mildew. A whitish-gray coating appears on the leaves.
- 2. Peronosporosis. Also called downy mildew. Not only a gray coating appears on the sheets, but also yellow spots.
- 3. Anthracnose. Pink-yellow pads form on the leaves.
- 4. Olive blotch. Spots appear on leaves and stems irregular shape. The latter also become corrugated.
- 5. Bacteriosis. Oily patches appear on leaves and stems.
- 6. Rot. It happens root, black, white and gray. The reason is fungus.
- 7. Cucumber mosaic. The disease is not curable. A peculiar ornament appears on the leaves.
Although watermelon is considered an unpretentious crop, with improper care, such diseases develop quite quickly. Fungicides deal with fungal infections. from bacterial and viral plant cannot be saved. Of the insects for watermelon, scoops, wireworms and melon aphids are dangerous. They are helped by insecticides.
Watermelon is a favorite melon crop of many gardeners, which gives the taste of summer. It is quite capable of growing even a novice gardener. However, for this it is not enough to prepare the site and provide appropriate care for the plants after planting: it is also necessary to correctly select and prepare the seeds for sowing.
Selection and preparation of the site and soil for planting watermelon
For growing watermelon in open ground and obtaining good harvest care must be taken to select a location that must meet the following requirements:
- be well lit;
- protect from the effects of winds;
- provide plants with the necessary nutrition.
Based on these factors, it must be taken into account that the area under the watermelon should receive a sufficient amount of light during the day, warm up and ventilate well. It is best if you start preparing the soil in advance: sow the future bed with green manure, apply the necessary fertilizers.
The plot for the future watermelon bed should be well lit, ventilated, and well fertilized.
Green manure - plants that are grown for the purpose of their subsequent incorporation into the soil, which improves its structure, enriches it with nitrogen and prevents the growth of weeds.
An important point is the previous crops, that is, which were grown on the site before the watermelon. Most preferred are onions, garlic, carrots and early cabbage as well as potatoes and tomatoes. Gourds (watermelon, zucchini, pumpkin, melon) should not be constantly planted in the same place, as pathogens accumulate in the soil.
It should be noted that watermelons and other melons require light, loose and fertile soil. Most suitable option if the plot of land will consist of sandy or sandy soil, and the necessary organic fertilizers (humus, compost) will be applied for digging in the fall. Organics are applied at the rate of 2.5 buckets per 1 m² of land. In addition, attention should be paid to the acidity of the soil: for watermelons, it should be in the range of pH 6-7.
The humus is excellent organic fertilizer to prepare a site for planting watermelon
In the spring, the watermelon bed should also be fertilized. mineral fertilizers under the dig. For 1 m² you will need:
- 24–35 g ammonium sulfate;
- 40–45 g of superphosphate;
- 15–25 g of potash fertilizers.
The combination of mineral and organic matter allows you to increase the productivity of watermelon.
Preparing watermelon seeds for sowing
For experienced gardeners, it is no secret that an important role in obtaining good and friendly seedlings is played by high-quality seed preparation for sowing. This process is quite important and consists of several stages that must be performed in a certain sequence.
Variety selection
Variety of watermelon for growing on your own garden plot must be chosen very carefully. If you do not have sufficient experience in the cultivation of this type of melon, then it is best to give preference hybrid varieties. This is due to the fact that they are characterized by more quality characteristics compared to varietal watermelons. Hybrids are characterized by faster maturation, resistance to a number of diseases and adverse conditions environment.
When planning to grow watermelon on your site, you need to carefully approach the choice of variety.
Seed calibration
At first glance, seed calibration may not seem like such a significant procedure. If you look in more detail, then the germination of seeds and the subsequent development of young plants will directly depend on it. Everything is really simple: stronger and healthier seedlings develop better, thereby oppressing weaker seedlings. When separating (calibrating) seeds by size, seedlings will be more friendly and plentiful.
Seed sizing involves dividing them by size, which allows you to get more friendly and abundant seedlings.
Warming up the seeds
Such a procedure as heating the seeds before planting allows you to activate biochemical processes in the planting material. To do this, the seeds are placed in a container of suitable size and poured with water at a temperature of about + 50 ° C. After half an hour, the water can be drained.
Pre-sowing treatment
Preparation of watermelon seeds involves their disinfection, i.e. disinfection. In most cases, gardeners and gardeners use manganese for these purposes, from which potassium permanganate is prepared (a solution of low concentration). In order to prepare the substance, a small amount of manganese is added to a small container filled with water. After stirring the solution, the seeds are soaked for 15–20 minutes, and then washed with water.
Disinfection minimizes the likelihood of infection of young plants with diseases or damage by pests.
Processing watermelon seeds in potassium permanganate allows you to perform disinfection, thereby protecting planting material from the adverse effects of microorganisms
After all the previous procedures have been completed, you can begin to germinate the seed material. To begin with, it is recommended to keep watermelon seeds for 12 hours in a nutrient solution: this is done to saturate the seeds with microelements, which will provide active growth and speed up germination. Today, many drugs of this kind are offered, for example, Kornevin, Zircon, Heteroauxin.
After the seeds are soaked in a growth stimulator, you should not wash them with water in any case: just dry them in the sun.
Germination of watermelon seeds accelerates the emergence of seedlings, and treatment in growth stimulants saturates the seed with microelements
Before soaking watermelon seeds to soften the dense peel, they are poured with hot water for 10 minutes. Then you need to make a gauze bag by folding the material in several layers, and place the seeds in it at some distance from each other. A bag with planting material is placed in a saucer or a shallow plate, having previously moistened the gauze, while it is not necessary to fill the seeds with water - they must "breathe". After that, the container is placed in a warm place (about +25˚С) and the humidity of the gauze is periodically controlled: it is moistened as needed.
To create more seeds comfortable conditions, the container can be covered with a cut plastic bottle, film or glass, thus, it will be possible to retain moisture for a longer time. It should be noted that watermelon seeds do not germinate very quickly. Therefore, the first sprouts can be seen at least in a week (depending on the seeds of a particular variety, their quality and the conditions created). By providing an optimal microclimate, it will be possible to accelerate the germination of seed material and bring it closer to the moment of planting it in the soil. If the seeds are not soaked before planting, then you can not count on the rapid emergence of seedlings. For Middle lane and northern regions, the soaking and germination procedure is necessary.
Video: sprouting watermelon seeds
Terms of sowing watermelon seeds in open ground
Planting watermelon is quite common in the seed way. The timing of sowing crops depends on the weather and the time when it is planned to get a crop. If spring comes early and is worth warm weather, you can start sowing seeds from the end of April to mid-June. If the approach of heat is delayed, then the sowing dates are shifted to the end of May.
When landing in the southern regions, you can start work from mid-April, while taking into account the weather conditions. For middle latitudes, sowing watermelon with seeds in open ground is carried out only after stable warm weather has been established. To determine the time of planting seeds, attention should be paid to the air temperature. Minimum temperature indicator+ 15˚С is considered for emergence of shoots. In regions with an unpredictable climate, gardeners prefer growing watermelons. seedling way. Seeds in this case are sown in the second half of April, and grown seedlings are planted in open ground in May-early June.
Seed germination - timing and verification
High-quality planting material is the key to a good harvest. An indicator of the quality of watermelon seeds is their germination. In most cases, in preparation for the next season, gardeners revise the seed different cultures while discovering that some of them are more than one year old. What to do in this case, throw it away and buy new ones, or can it still be used for planting? It is enough to know that the germination of watermelon seeds lasts for 6–8 years.
In addition, there is a way to test watermelon seeds for germination, which is also suitable for other melon crops. For this you will need sawdust, which are preliminarily doused several times with boiling water (with a frequency of half an hour). You will need to prepare a container, for example, a tray or a box small size, which is filled with raw sawdust. The seeds are laid out in rows with a distance of 2–3 cm. A gap of 1–1.5 cm is made between the seeds. Then the seed is sprinkled with sawdust and tamped, and the container is placed in a warm place with a temperature of + 23–27 ° C and wait for the appearance of sprouts. To determine the percentage of germination, a simple calculation is performed: if out of 10 seeds sprout 6, then the germination is 60%.
Proper planting of watermelon seeds
When favorable weather has set in, and the watermelon seeds have undergone preparatory procedures, you can start sowing them in open ground.
How far to plant
Since watermelon is a very spreading plant, a sufficient amount of space is needed to grow it. Thus, the bush will feel comfortable and develop normally. Watermelons are planted in open ground in a certain way, namely according to the scheme. AT standard scheme, which is called ordinary, the row spacing is 2 m, and in a row 1 m sown 5–10 seeds per hole. After germination, only the strongest sprouts are left, 1 seedling per meter.
An ordinary watermelon planting scheme involves planting seeds at a distance of 1 m in a row and 2 m between rows
In addition to the ordinary scheme, there is also a square-nested one. In this case, the distance between the holes with planted seeds should be 70–280 cm. The difference in distance depends on the variety of watermelon grown. When planting compact varieties, the gap between the holes is made smaller.
With a square-nested planting of watermelon, a distance of 70–280 cm is made between the holes, depending on the variety
Long distances between plantings of watermelon are necessary to obtain a sufficient amount sunlight. With a close location, the culture will not receive required amount nutrient elements.
Seeding depth
When planting watermelon seeds in open ground, it is important to observe the planting depth. The optimal planting depth for small-seeded varieties is 4-6 cm, for large-seeded varieties - 6-8 cm. If the planting material is deeper, it will be more difficult for it to hatch, which will affect the timing of germination. In addition to the variety, the soil also has an effect on the sowing depth. On sandy soils, the seeds are buried by 7-8 cm, on sandy soils - 5-7 cm, on loamy soils - 4-5 cm. AT northern regions with heavy soils, the seed should not be planted deeper than 4 cm.
The planting depth of watermelon seeds depends on the type of soil and the specific variety.
Landing under the film
It is also possible to grow watermelons under a film. This method allows you to sow as early as March and thus get an earlier harvest. Film shelter makes it possible to maintain high humidity, which eliminates the lack of moisture and contributes to the rapid development of plants. When using film, it creates the greenhouse effect which ensures rapid seed germination.
On the site prepared in the fall, ridges are cut with a distance of 70 cm from each other, for which a hiller is used. The covering film must cover 2 ridges at once, i.e. standard width 1.5 m should be enough. Between the rows recede by 2.5 m, which is necessary for the normal development of plants. Holes are prepared in the formed ridges at a distance of 1 m from each other and seeds are sown.
When growing watermelons under a film, it is recommended to make holes in a checkerboard pattern.
Growing watermelons under a film allows you to plant seeds in March and get an earlier harvest
The number of seeds sown in one hole can be different and depend on the varieties used. Seeds of inexpensive varieties can be laid out 2-3 grains per hole. When shoots appear, pinch out weaker plants, leaving one of the most developed seedlings. If expensive varieties are used, then one seed is placed in each well.
After sowing, the soil is moistened and covered with a film. To do this, the material is deployed along the length of the beds, pressing it with the ground so that it is not blown away by the wind. If the weather is cloudy, then seedlings should appear a week after planting. Since the seedlings will soon begin to rest against the film, it will be necessary to make cross-shaped slots for free growth plants.
A week after germination, the watermelon will adapt to environment. During this period, the holes in the film are covered with earth to prevent the emergence of weeds. To avoid damage to young seedlings, the sprout is carefully pulled out of the film, put on a piece plastic pipe(can be a jar), sprinkled with earth, lightly tamping it, after which they remove the protection. After such a procedure, watermelons are considered ready for further development.
Video: growing watermelons under a film
What to do if watermelon seeds do not germinate
Sometimes gardeners are faced with such an unpleasant situation when watermelon seeds did not germinate. What could be the reason and how to fix the situation? Seeds can be one of the main problems Low quality. If the seed is purchased in a store, be sure to check the expiration date on the package. In addition, you can focus on the price, but it is not always an indicator of quality: both cheap and expensive seeds can have good germination.
When buying watermelon seeds, attention should be paid to the date of manufacture, and when storing your planting material for a long time, check it for germination
If you still have watermelon seeds from previous years without packaging or you yourself collected planting material, you need to identify seeds that are unsuitable for sowing. To do this, seeds are poured into a container with water, and those that are on the surface - it makes no sense to plant.
Seed germination is influenced by many factors:
- degree of maturation;
- collection and drying conditions;
- storage conditions;
- packaging date.
These factors depend, as a rule, on the seed producer. However, the success of the entire event directly depends on the conditions that will be created for their germination. This suggests that if the seeds are obviously of good quality, and the humidity or temperature does not meet the required indicators, then the material may simply not germinate. In addition, when planting germinated seeds in open ground with cold soil, they can slow down in growth or even die.
Further care for watermelon seedlings
When growing watermelon in open ground, periodic loosening of the soil and watering are important conditions. It is recommended to mark the holes when planting seeds, for example, with pegs, so that rows can be seen when loosening. During the period of growth of leaf mass and lashes, top dressing is performed. To do this, you can use urea (150 g) and the same amount of superphosphate, as well as potassium salt (50 g) per 10 m². Fertilization should be accompanied by irrigation or rainfall.
For the normal development of young watermelon seedlings, timely watering and loosening of the soil is necessary.
Irrigation Special attention should be given when building leaves and stems, flowering and the appearance of ovaries. During fruit ripening, on the contrary, watering is highly undesirable, since excessive moisture leads to the appearance of cracks in the fruit and a deterioration in taste. Irrigate watermelon beds warm water Once a week, but at the same time plentifully. Caring for watermelons also involves the formation of a bush, as a result of which it is possible to get larger and sweeter berries. In this case, no more than four fruits are left on one plant. In addition, they pinch the shoots and remove the whiskers.
Video: the formation of a watermelon in the open field
Important is the prevention and control of diseases and pests of watermelon. Common pests include sprout fly, melon aphid, wireworm. If an insect is detected before it damages the plant, they are treated with biological preparations, for example, Fitoverm. When pests invade, they resort to using chemicals, such as Decis, Aktara, Fufanon. Of the most common diseases of melons, anthracnose is distinguished, powdery mildew, downy mildew. As a preventive measure, colloidal sulfur, Ordan, Khom are used.
One of the common pests of watermelons is the sprout fly, the larvae of which damage the roots, seeds and stem of the plant.
High-quality planting material in combination with proper preparation to sowing is the key to a good harvest. It is in this case that it will be possible to avoid wasting time, increase the germination of seeds and ensure the active growth and development of plants.
