How to build a viewing hole. Inspection hole in an unheated garage. What is a viewing hole for? How to make a viewing hole yourself. Survey ditch and groundwater

Do-it-yourself arrangement of a viewing hole in the garage will allow the car enthusiast to get an indispensable attribute that will make it possible to inspect the car on their own, as well as carry out repairs and, often, save a lot on this.

Before starting work, you should familiarize yourself with all milestones, since digging trenches is the smallest part in creating a repair pit.

A repair pit will be an excellent assistant to the owner of the car, and its construction in accordance with all the rules will not create problems in the future. A special recess has many advantages, the main ones being inspection without the need to contact specialists, minor repairs and maintenance such as oil changes and other minor procedures.

Of the shortcomings, it is important to note excess moisture due to the proximity of groundwater. In addition, a high-quality do-it-yourself arrangement of a viewing hole in the garage will ensure the safety of its user.

There are several types of inspection pits in the garage, they are divided according to the type of material and depth. As for materials, concrete or metal is most often used. The structure will be more practical if you choose the first type, since the concrete is not exposed to chemical substances and more resistant to external influences.

A metal garage pit is simpler and cheaper to perform, but the service life can be much shorter. The depth depends on the size of the room - it will be easier to work in a deeper one.

Pit design.

It is important not only to choose the type of pit, but also to know how to make it correctly. It will not be enough to dig a ditch, you also need:

strengthen the walls and floor;
choose the right lighting;
install electric lights;
cover it to protect it from accidental falling;
come up with a way to descend;
take care of waterproofing and thermal insulation;
install ventilation.

Tools and materials that may be needed when creating a pit

Depending on the complexity of the installation, different tools may be needed, the basic set includes:

measurement tools: tape measure, plumb line or building level;
chalk or other marking instruments;
shovel and bayonet shovels;
electric drill;
a hammer;
apparatus for welding;
hacksaw;
a bucket or other devices for removing dug earth and diluting the concrete mixture;
surface treatment tools: sandpaper, grater and more.

In addition to tools, you should also prepare materials that you cannot do without when building a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands. You may need:

materials for concrete mix: cement and sand or cement, sand plus crushed stone;
crushed stone and gravel - used in the arrangement of the pillow at the bottom;
slurry;
wooden beams and boards;
rods or finished reinforced grating;
metal corner or channel;
nails;
plastic pipes - will be needed in ventilation work;
heat-insulating and waterproofing materials;
brick or foam block, if walls are built with their help.

In addition, other Additional materials such as wall tiles or other decorative finishes. You should also prepare a ladder if the entrance to the pit will be provided with it.

We start construction work

The dimensions of the viewing hole.

When equipping a viewing hole with your own hands, first of all, you will need to choose a place for it in the garage and determine the size. Typically, a recess is made in the middle of the room, but this item depends on the size of the room.

It is much more convenient to dig a hole a little closer to the wall, which is only possible with a large garage. This solution will prevent the influence of condensate on the bottom of the machine.

The calculation of the parameters of the pit depends on the dimensions of the machine, plus it is recommended to make a small margin, in case new car bigger size. In addition, it will be much more convenient for the car owner to work when they do not have to crowd into too narrow a space.

Optimal Width inspection pit - 70 cm, the length should be based on the length of a standard car plus 1 meter. Thus, if the length of the vehicle is 4.5 m, then it is better to make the length of the pit 5.5 m. However, it is not always possible to make a structure of this size, but less than 2 meters does not make sense.

Determining the depth of the pit, one should build on the growth of the motorist with the addition of 15-20 cm.

When choosing sizes, it is important to consider several factors:

place for descent;
wall and floor thickness after all finishing works concrete, brick or other materials.

The entrance to the SA can be carried out using a portable stepladder, but in big garage it will be convenient to make a side entrance by making steps. The above parameters apply to passenger cars, being the owner of a truck, you need to build on its dimensions.

If the pit in the garage is intended for the purpose of inspecting both cars and trucks, stick to the average parameters.

How to make a floor in a hole?

After determining the location, you can start digging a hole in the garage. If a concrete floor has already been laid in the room, then you will need to cut out part of it in the place where the future recess will be.

For this purpose, they are used Circular Saw, a jackhammer or a puncher with a chisel, but it is better to use the latter as a last resort.

Marking is carried out with chalk or other marking tool using a corner, it will help in creating clear lines. In the process of digging a niche right size a plumb line should be used, as it is important to obtain smooth walls. When the recess is ready, proceed to the floor.

At the bottom, you need to create a pillow support, for this:

crushed stone is laid out in an even layer;
after tamping, a layer of sand is poured;
the third layer is clay;
waterproofing material is laid, for example roofing material;
fittings are placed;
concrete mortar is poured.

The scheme of the inspection hole in the garage.

After the structure has been concreted, it is necessary to wait for complete drying. Then a waterproofing layer is applied on top of it, thermal insulation work is carried out and then everything is poured with concrete again.

Laying out the walls

The formation of walls in the inspection pit will be performed in several stages. First, clay is applied, then you need to fix the plastic film and spread the roofing material. At the next stage, it is important to take care of waterproofing and thermal insulation, carefully processing each section.

Only after that should you start laying out the walls. Most often, the side surfaces are finished with brick or concrete.

Brick walls

Having chosen the option of brick, the material is placed in a checkerboard pattern in one layer along the width of the brick. In this case, it is necessary to carefully overwrite the seams, and securely tie the corners. The topmost row should protrude slightly above the floor screed, at least 5 cm.

This is done in order to prevent accidental arrival of the wheel of the car on the structure, and also so that foreign objects do not accidentally get inside.

concrete walls

To lay out the walls of concrete, you will need to build a formwork from wooden blocks or boards. Then it is recommended to reinforce the walls with steel wire or reinforcement.

At the same stage, electrical wiring is laid, for safety reasons it is made hidden and hidden under the corrugation, stretching along the walls and leading to the installation points of the lamps. After that, it is fixed on a reinforcing mesh using plastic ties.

The next step will be directly pouring concrete. The process should be gradual, it is not poured all at once, but in layers of 30-40 cm, while careful tamping with crowbar is required or bayonet shovel to remove air from concrete. Then you need to wait for each layer to dry, which will take 2-3 days.

Regardless of the chosen type of walls, it is important not to forget about niches. If you finish with bricks, it will be more convenient to make formwork inserts of the right size from the boards and lay the material around the niches. In the case of a concrete surface, liners are required.

After laying out the walls, a metal corner should be laid, turned down at an angle, if it is planned to manufacture a cover in the future. In addition, it will protect the car from accidentally falling into a pit.

Pit arrangement

Lighting in the viewing hole.

In addition to carrying out the main work, including digging a pit, strengthening the bottom and walls of the pit, other equally important work will be required.

These include:

carrying out waterproofing;
laying thermal insulation;
providing ventilation inside the trench;
lighting installation;
production of a cover for closing a repair pit.

How is the waterproofing of the pit done?

Since the main drawback of the inspection pit is high humidity, it is important to take care of waterproofing. You can protect the repair pit with the help of an external or internal waterproofing, the best option would be to combine the two methods.

In the first case, actions are carried out even at the stage of building a garage. Theoretically, if the groundwater is deep enough, below 2.5 meters, even during the rainy season, then it is possible not to carry out internal waterproofing work. However, there is a small risk here, so, if possible, this fact is best not to be ignored.

To prevent moisture inside the pit, special films or membranes are used. They are overlapped in whole pieces, covering the pit from one end to the other, with a release of 10-15 cm on the garage floor from all sides of the pit. To ensure a tight joint, they should be glued double sided tape in all places.

The film should fit snugly against the pit, for this purpose it is straightened and in the future you should try to avoid damage to it.

If the pit is built, it will no longer be possible to make external waterproofing, it remains only to apply deep penetration impregnations in order to reduce the hydroscopicity of the walls. The impregnation of the walls is carried out with coating waterproofing; you can also use a composition for pools that resembles rubber.

It will provide a dense film that reliably protects against water. It is recommended to carry out the treatment with the composition at least twice, after which it will dry and it can be washed without problems.

Alternatively, a cement-based deep penetration primer is used. It contains polymer particles that protect against capillary moisture. As in the previous method, processing should be carried out at least twice, and preferably more.

How to insulate a hole?

Thermal insulation of the pit in the garage will reduce heating costs and keep comfortable temperature, which is important when carrying out repair work. Polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam or expanded clay pillow are suitable as a heat insulator.

The first option is considered great option, because it can withstand heavy loads, it is resistant to precipitation, fungi and bacteria.

Garage drawing with viewing hole.

The material is laid between the soil and the wall, it can also be laid under the screed on the floor of the pit. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top and concrete is poured. Styrofoam is also laid, and expanded clay is most often laid on the bottom of the repair pit, where it also acts as a floor stabilizer for the structure, and not just a heater.

Ensuring ventilation

Ventilation must be provided in the repair trench. Even in a well-heated garage, high humidity can occur and, as a result, condensation can form, which will negatively affect the bottom of the car.

The type of ventilation will depend on the size of the room, it is quite possible to get by in a large one. natural ventilation, but in a small one you will need to create additional ventilation.

The easiest way is to lead an exhaust duct from a plastic sewer pipe from one side of the trench to about 30 cm above ground level. At the same time, the supply pipe must be embedded in the ground, and its lower edge is drawn with a branch pipe through the wall of the lower part.

The removed end of the ventilation must be covered with a special cover, mesh or grate, which will provide protection from the ingress of various objects or debris.

The ventilation system can be both general and separate. The option of separate ventilation is described above, common pipe two holes would be the most efficient option. In some cases, pipes are not led out through the roof of the room, but under the garage wall, through the foundation.

holding lighting

For the purpose of comfort and safe work can not do without lighting inside the pit. In principle, it is possible to use portable lighting devices or a headlamp, but they will not replace full-fledged general lighting.

For this purpose, electricity is provided in the SA. Wiring is carried out by a specialist, so if you do not have the skills, you should not do the work related to electricity yourself.

For lighting, low-voltage lamps of 12 and 35 volts are used; it will be possible to provide a reduced voltage after installing the appropriate transformer in the shield or next to it. Perfect for lamps daylight, made in a sealed case, ensuring safety during operation.

It is recommended to install devices in niches so that they do not interfere with the work process. If niches were not provided, it is better to choose fixtures with the most flat and impact-resistant body. Provide quality lighting will succeed after the uniform installation of the bulbs.

How to close the hole?

To ensure safety in the garage, it is advisable to close the repair pit. Then the car will not accidentally fall inside, no one will fall down, moreover, the cover will additionally protect against the negative effects of moisture. Various materials are used, most often these are:

wood;
sheets of metal;
metal frames;
plastic.

The most important thing is that the structure must withstand the weight of a person. Of these materials, relatively cheap and simple option there will be a cover made of wood, it is recommended to select hardwoods. The bars are cut according to the distance between end walls SYA. The recommended thickness is at least 40 mm.

Before use, the wood should be impregnated with antiseptic and antifungal agents, as well as varnished, which will significantly increase its service life.

Metal also needs to be sanded and painted. The material has fewer advantages, the metal cover has more weight, is not resistant to corrosion and will not be the cheapest option. If desired, the owner of the garage can make any convenient type of cover for the viewing hole, make it sectional, folding or in the form of a shield.

Outcome

The inspection hole will become an indispensable tool for the owner of the car. With its help, it will be possible to inspect the bottom of the car or perform minor repairs, which will eliminate the need to contact specialists and sometimes help save a lot.

It is not enough to dig a pit and take care of the descent into the trench. The arrangement of the pit should be carried out in accordance with all the rules, which will ensure comfortable use of the repair pit and safety.

And what finish did you use when arranging the pit?

An important element of any car garage- observation pit made of bricks. It allows you to inspect the main components and assemblies located below the vehicle. Such a simple building can be laid out with your own hands, having previously prepared a plan-scheme of the structure and bought the necessary building materials and tools. The functionality of the inspection pit in the garage is often increased by built-in niches that are used to store automotive oils and fluids, a set of tools and a supply of fuel.

Preparing to build a pit in a brick garage

Usually a pit for a viewing hole is made before the walls are erected. This will eliminate restrictions and allow you to take out the removed soil along with the soil from the excavated trench under the garage foundation. The pit can be made after the completion of the construction of the garage and its overlap, but always before the floor is concreted. When choosing the location of the pit, you must:

Have data on the occurrence of groundwater, so that the structure is not flooded and does not become useless.
Retreat from entrance gate 1-1.5 m for passage with the car parked.
Calculate the distance to the side walls or stationary workbenches and racks with the possibility of free opening of the machine doors.

Dimensions and material calculation

Properly prepared working drawings will allow you to avoid miscalculations in the manufacture of metal structures, calculate the amount of building materials and ensure the convenience of arranging niches for storage. Work begins with the establishment of the parameters of the viewing hole, which are influenced by the following factors:

overall dimensions of the garage;
the width of the wheel base of the car;
machine length;
the height of the owner who will use it.

Properly selected dimensions will ensure safety, convenience when repairing and parking a car in a garage.

The dimensions of the future building depend on several important factors.

The dimensions of length, width and depth are entered into future project. These data are necessary to calculate the volume of excess soil, the dimensions of the reinforcement, the corner, the number of bricks and others. building materials. The optimal width is 800-860 mm. The dimensions of the length of the pit can be any, but not less than the length of the car plus 1 m. As a rule, this indicator is in the range from 4 to 6 m. The depth is chosen according to the height of the customer plus 10-20 cm. Usually it is within 1.8 -2 m. You can get to a comfortable depth by raising the floor after laying.

Stages of work

Pit preparation

The dimensions of the pit are 20-25 cm more sizes pits. For laying drainage, a trench is made along the perimeter below the level of the floor screed. If niches are provided, they take out the soil at their location. The trench for the ventilation pipe should be laid under the foundation of the garage and brought out. It is preferable to dig by hand, but if a foundation pit is being prepared before the walls are erected, then it is possible - with a tractor. At the same time, it is necessary to mark and drive in pegs so that additional soil is not required for backfilling.

Arrangement of the floor and walls

Crushed stone is laid at the bottom of the pit in one of the layers.

After the pit is ready, they clean and level the floor, walls and niches from excess soil. Then, at the bottom, an additional substrate for the screed is made, layer-by-layer filling clay, crushed stone of the middle fraction, sand and fine gravel. The first 2 layers are laid with a thickness of 10 cm, and the next - 5 cm each. The layers are gradually carefully leveled and compacted.

Waterproofing and water runoff

This stage is necessary and mandatory if groundwater occurs at a distance of less than 2 m. For this purpose, roofing material or isolon is used, which covers the bottom and walls with a margin of 30 cm on each side. The ends are bent and fixed. The waterproofing material is laid with an overlap of 8-10 cm. When laying roofing material, it is important to coat the seams bituminous mastic to create tightness. In the same way, the places of future niches are waterproofed. Before laying the waterproofing, asbestos pipes with a diameter of 5-8 cm are laid along the outer side of the walls, which will act as drainage.

Floor concreting

For concreting, a lattice of reinforcement 5-8 mm thick with a cell of 10 × 10 cm is welded or tied with steel wire. We install the prepared structure above the floor at a height of 6-8 cm. Before pouring concrete, the horizontal laying is checked with a level. To prepare the solution, cement M500, sand and fine gravel of a fraction of 1.5-2 cm are used in proportions of 1:4:2. ready mix the reinforced bottom is poured and a screed is made with a thickness of 10 to 15 cm. The concrete mixture is leveled to a horizontal level.

For the convenience of performing preventive maintenance and repairing a car with a good owner, the garage is usually equipped with a viewing hole. This is not surprising - the mentality of most of our men is such that almost every motorist prefers to control the condition of the car himself, and, if necessary, to repair it. Having invested in such an arrangement of the garage once, in the future you can save a decent amount on after-sales service, since to carry out such simple, but necessary procedures like oil change or bottom coating anti-corrosion composition, as well as a number of other works related to the bottom or suspension of the car, you can do it yourself.

However, it should be immediately noted that the optimal location of the inspection pit is considered to be a place under a canopy next to the garage, or in the garage, but next to the parking lot, since wet vapors that accumulate between the bottom of the car and the bottom of the pit often contribute to activation of corrosion processes. But, as you know, most often the place in the garage is limited, so the viewing hole is arranged in the middle part of the room. Based on this circumstance, it will be further considered how a viewing hole in the garage can be made with your own hands.

In relation to design features inspection hole is:

complex, consisting of a pit and a cellar;
narrow, in this case, in order to descend into it a fairly small staircase;
the recumbent option involves staying in the pit, exclusively in the supine position.

In addition, these options differ in various modifications of the pits. The size of a standard inspection pit in a garage depends, first of all, on the number of people who will be in it, on the size of the garage itself, on the type of car or other equipment that will be in the garage.

If you have several cars, it is better to use the classic version, which involves the following dimensions:

the width of the inspection hole in the garage - from 80 to 100 cm;
the depth of the inspection hole in the garage is about 170-200 cm;
the length of the inspection hole depends on the length of the garage and is at least 160-200 cm.

Before planning a viewing hole, you should consider individual characteristics structures that will affect the size and configuration of the pit. The pit is dug with allowances, which are about forty centimeters in length and width, and about twenty in height. If it is necessary to carry out wall insulation, the size of the pit should be increased by the size of the material from which the insulation will be made.

The position of the ditch can be different: in the center of the gate or with an offset. In this case, the machine stands away from the underground with its damp air. To inspect or perform any work, you will have to maneuver to drive into the ditch. For a more convenient entrance, the inspection pit in the garage can have an L-shaped configuration. You can go up and down the stairs without rolling the car.

At first glance, having a pit in your own garage is a big plus, but there are also nuances that you need to be aware of when arranging it. The advantages of the solution primarily include the ability to inspect the above parts of the car without resorting to the help of specialists. It's simple, free, and even interesting for many car owners.

Further, repair and maintenance without the involvement of a professional car mechanic can save quite a lot of money. If you calculate for a year how much it costs to change the oil and other actions in the workshop, the benefit becomes obvious. And the repair skill itself will be useful more than once.

In addition, if the pit is spacious enough, repair kits and spare parts for the car are often stored in it. This is especially true for a small garage, in which there is a shortage of free space.

What can not please such a useful corner? The most important danger when building a garage with a pit is closely spaced groundwater. In general, excess moisture is the enemy of the car, and if waterproofing is poorly done in the inspection pit, then even in the absence of flooding, water will accumulate on the walls of the structure due to temperature changes during the cold season.

Attention! Any inspection hole can lead to the formation of condensate on the bottom of the machine due to the temperature difference at different levels of the building.

However, it is worth noting that the inspection pit will become a disadvantage only if it is made in violation of construction technologies and without taking into account the engineering and soil features of the site.

All work must be done in a strict sequence of steps:

Before you make a hole in the garage, you need to mark the area. After the pit is dug, its bottom can be covered with a raised floor or convenient stands can be built. If the ground is unstable, then it must be strengthened with boards and struts. Remember that loosened earth is 25-30% larger in volume than the dimensions of the pit. It should not be taken out immediately, since part of the soil will be needed to compact the space between the wall of the pit and the brickwork (concrete, metal sheet, boards). The other part of the land will be required to level the floor throughout the garage.
At the stage of formation of the pit, it is necessary to take care of equipping niches in the walls. They are comfortable to hold lighting, tools, materials. Niches are recommended to be placed at the height of the elbows. You don't have to bend down for the tool.

When the pit is dug, it is necessary to level and compress its bottom. For this, a rammer is used, which can be built using self-tapping screws, thick (with a diameter of 100 to 150 mm) and thin timber (for the handle). To do this, attach a thin one to the end of one side of a thick beam. The design will resemble the letter "T", where shock part will be at its base. Pour medium-sized gravel onto the prepared surface, compress.
Then you need to prepare the concrete mixture for pouring the floor. To make the base more durable, it must be reinforced with a metal mesh or rods. The dimensions of the cells in the metal frame should not exceed 15 cm. The grate should not be allowed to touch the bottom of the pit.

Pour concrete, completely covering metal carcass. It will take from 7 to 21 days for the mixture to solidify. It depends on the air temperature.
When the concrete is completely hardened, you can begin to build walls in the viewing hole.

Features of the installation of partitions depends on the material used.

Observation pit made of concrete

Before pouring the mixture, it is necessary to make a formwork. For this it is best to use OSB boards. This material does not pass the poured mixture and does not deform over time. The plates are fastened together with the help of boards and self-tapping screws so that the distance between them is at least 15 cm.

To keep the shape wooden structure it must be secured with struts. Gaps in the joints of the plates should be absent or minimal. A reinforcing mesh should be installed inside the finished formwork.

There is an option for pouring concrete with one-sided formwork. To do this, it is necessary to cover the walls of the pit with waterproofing material. Further along the inner perimeter of the pit, OSB plates are installed. A metal mesh is placed between them and the waterproofing. Concrete is poured inside this structure.

Observation pit made of bricks

A waterproofing sheet is laid in the finished pit. It should completely cover the floor and walls. The canvas must be laid with an overlap. So that the edges of the material do not bulge, they are pressed with boards. On top of the waterproofing, masonry is made “in half a brick”. When the wall reaches a height of 135 cm, you can make niches, and then continue laying to the top edge of the pit. It is recommended to install a metal frame from the corner on the last row, and it should be welded in such a way that one shelf of each side is parallel to the floor. Thick boards covering the pit will be laid on it. Next, they pour the concrete floor in the garage.

Inspection pit made of metal sheets (caisson)

This design resembles a large box. In its manufacture, the sheets must be connected by continuous welding. The finished structure must be carefully treated with anti-corrosion coatings. The box should be equipped with fasteners. They are welded metal corners that rest on the ground by 100-150 cm. They are attached to the body with four sides. They will hold the box in place. If this is not done, the entire structure will simply float when the groundwater level rises.

Observation pit made of wooden planks

Wood without appropriate treatment quickly rots. Therefore, the material must be impregnated with special antifungal agents and additionally waterproofed. Boards for walls are better to take thick. The material is installed horizontally. Spacers are fixed along the edges of the narrow sides of the inspection hole.

When arranging a garage with your own hands, great attention should be paid to waterproofing, especially if groundwater is located nearby. It is carried out as follows:

the waterproofing film is laid on the entire surface of the floor with an overlap on the walls of about 15 cm, while it is important not to damage its integrity;

only after that you can start concreting the floor;
with a close occurrence of groundwater, well-packed greasy clay can be used instead of a sand cushion;
experienced builders recommend adding water-repellent additives when mixing concrete mortar, which will prevent the destruction of walls and floors under the influence of moisture. Waterproofing must be of high quality, therefore, when choosing materials, special attention should be paid to their characteristics.

Going down the ladder into the pit is inconvenient and dangerous. The ladder should be stationary, at the same time - comfortable and safe. The best option is to make steps simultaneously with the construction of the building envelope. With brick walls and steps, it is advisable to make bricks. When pouring walls made of monolithic reinforced concrete, steps should be cast at the same time. If for some reason they were not made at this stage, then the ladder can be made later with your own hands, when the inspection ditch is being arranged. The ladder is made of wood - with fastening steps on bowstrings or stringers, as well as metal - with corrugated iron treads.

Important details when arranging a viewing hole

The work that is carried out in the pit must be safe for humans, so some recommendations should be followed:

When working on unstable ground, special attention should be paid to strengthening the walls, otherwise in the future they may collapse at the most inopportune moment. Instability will be noticeable even at the stage of digging a hole - the earth will crumble, sag or crack.
The work must be carried out using personal protection- work boots, durable gloves. When using a grinder, welding machine or jackhammer, you should wear safety goggles that prevent damage to your eyes from flying particles of metal, soil, stones or dust.

If you follow the detailed instructions, there is nothing complicated in arranging a pit. For the convenience of performing work, there should be two people. With the correct calculation of the dimensions of the pit and the correct strengthening of its walls, you can not worry that there will be no room for the car to maneuver or the floor will sag under its weight.

The need for an inspection hole in the garage is obvious, since in cases of oil changes, minor repairs to the bottom of the body, or a routine inspection, you have to allocate several hours to travel to a service station and pay for an expensive service.

The pit for technical inspection of the car can also be used as a cellar or vegetable store. For this, niches and shelves are constructed inside it.

The condition for the high-quality use of an inspection pit as a technical structure and a place for storing products is compliance with all construction standards and the availability reliable waterproofing floors and walls.

Even such a simple design requires careful planning. An important point in this case is the determination of the quality of the soil and the level of groundwater. The most suitable basis for such structures is clay soil. Its peculiarity lies in the fact that it does not allow moisture to pass through, which means it can become a kind of waterproofing layer.

With a large accumulation of groundwater and a high level of their location, the inspection pit is additionally equipped with a drainage system to remove excess moisture, as well as submersible pumpsso that the room can be quickly drained.

The ladder will provide a comfortable and safe descent

Step-by-step guide to making a viewing hole

Installation of a viewing hole can be carried out independently. There is nothing complicated about this if you follow.

How to determine size

To make a calculation of the area of \u200b\u200bthe future viewing hole, you need to take into account the thickness of the walls and base. For such calculations, it is necessary to remember the course of geometry and resort to a simple formula that determines the area - S \u003d ah, where a is the length, h is the width of the pit. The finished inspection pit will have dimensions of 75x185x300 cm. The thickness of the concrete walls and floor, as a rule, is about 10 cm. The calculations will be as follows: 0.85x3 \u003d 2.55 m² - this is the area of \u200b\u200bthe pit for the viewing hole.

Comfortable work in the inspection pit is created by a properly calculated space, namely, its parameters should be convenient for the build of the person in it. Usually the width of the pit is built in the range from 70 to 75 cm. This width is enough for you to move freely inside. The same distance between the walls makes the observation structure convenient for check-in passenger car.

The pit can be wider if the inspection hole is intended for large or trucks. The distance between the inner sides of the wheels of such vehicles is much larger (from 80 to 90 cm).

The observation pit is arranged in such a way that the walls narrow slightly to the floor. Schematically, in cross section, its design resembles an inverted trapezoid. This shape provides easy access to tools in niches and free movement.

The length of the inspection hole is selected based on the size of the garage. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room allows, then a staircase can be provided in the pit. To do this, the length of the pit is increased by 100–120 cm.

The depth of the pit "with a margin" for installing the floor

The height of the pit is at least 170–180 cm. These dimensions are relative, since the depth is made in accordance with the height of the car owner. Being in the inspection hole, a person should not touch the bottom of the car with his head.

For additional safety of the car and its owner, the inspection pit is equipped with metal limiters. Usually they are four pillars fixed at the corners of the niche. They rise 10-15 cm above it. Sometimes not four pillars are used for technical inspection, but two metal corners. They are fastened against each other along the edges of the length of the pit.

The depth must be more growth host by 25–30 cm. With such a distance from the base to the body, the hands will not quickly get tired, as this makes it possible for them to be in a bent position.

Materials and tools

Most often, concrete, wood, metal or brick are used for manufacturing.

To calculate the required amount of concrete, you must use the formula that determines the volume. To do this, multiply the values of the length, width and height of the wall. Similar calculations are carried out for the floor.

If a brick is used during the construction of the pit, then, knowing its parameters, it is easy to calculate required amount of this material in pieces. The dimensions of the red brick are 250x120x60 mm.

When building a viewing hole, you can not do without the following tools:

shovel and bayonet shovel;
buckets for excavated earth and concrete mix;
trowels;
welding machine;
hacksaws.

The following materials are also required:

bricks;
cement, sand, gravel;
concrete M200 for the base;
boards with a section of 400x50 mm;
reinforcing bars;
metal corner 50 mm wide;
waterproofing material.

Instructions for making a viewing hole from bricks, boards, concrete and iron

All work must be done in a strict sequence of steps:

Features of the installation of partitions depends on the material used.

Observation pit made of concrete

Before pouring the mixture, it is necessary to make a formwork. For this, it is best to use OSB boards. This material does not pass the poured mixture and does not deform over time. The plates are fastened together with the help of boards and self-tapping screws so that the distance between them is at least 15 cm.

To hold the shape of a wooden structure, it must be fixed with spacers. Gaps in the joints of the plates should be absent or minimal. A reinforcing mesh should be installed inside the finished formwork.

There is an option for pouring concrete with one-sided formwork. To do this, it is necessary to cover the walls of the pit with waterproofing material. Further along the inner perimeter of the pit, OSB plates are installed. A metal mesh is placed between them and the waterproofing. Concrete is poured inside this structure.

After the concrete hardens, a monolithic structure is obtained.

Observation pit made of bricks

Inspection pit made of metal sheets (caisson)

This design resembles a large box. In its manufacture, the sheets must be connected by continuous welding. The finished structure must be carefully treated with anti-corrosion coatings. The box should be equipped with fasteners. They are welded metal corners that rest on the ground by 100-150 cm. They are attached to the body from four sides. They will hold the box in place. If this is not done, the entire structure will simply float when the groundwater level rises.

The ladder is made from the same material.

Observation pit made of wooden planks

Wood without proper treatment quickly rots. Therefore, the material must be impregnated with special antifungal agents and additionally waterproofed. Boards for walls are better to take thick. The material is installed horizontally. Spacers are fixed along the edges of the narrow sides of the inspection hole.

For reliability, the bottom of the pit is made of concrete

Waterproofing device

This process is carried out both before the construction of the structure (external insulation), as well as after its construction (internal insulation).

If the garage is located on a site with a low level of groundwater, then many owners are in no hurry to isolate the viewing hole from moisture. However, the hydrological situation of any area changes every year, so it is recommended to take care of insulation even at the construction stage. For this, special films or membranes are used, for example, butyl rubber, aquaizol. They must be laid in a pit. The edges of the material should be laid with an overlap of 10–15 cm. To obtain a sealed seam at the overlap, use double-sided tape.

When installing a film or membrane, it is important not to damage their integrity. Otherwise, moisture from the soil will get into the pit.

The laid waterproofing layer is melted with a blowtorch. As a result of this, the film straightens out, adhering more closely to the walls and the bottom of the inspection hole.

The overlap of the material will not allow moisture to seep into the pit

Do-it-yourself internal waterproofing of a viewing hole in a garage involves treating the surface of a finished viewing structure with liquid substances, which, when dried, form a dense water-repellent layer. The composition for the treatment of pools has proven itself well. It is applied with a dense wide brush, and when solidified, the substance forms a waterproof material resembling rubber. For greater reliability, more than two layers should be applied.

The insulating material can be applied with a spray gun

There is another way internal insulation from moisture is the use of special primers based on cements, which tend to be deeply absorbed into the applied material. This effect is achieved due to the polymer particles that are in the mixture. They block the capillaries that allow moisture to penetrate through the base material.

How to close the finished viewing hole

A covered inspection pit will not only protect the car from accidental failure, but also serve as an additional waterproofing layer. In the absence of a cover, evaporated moisture settles on the lower parts of the car body, thereby creating favorable conditions for the formation of metal corrosion. To avoid such problems, the viewing hole is covered. To do this, use sheets of metal or boards.

Wood is relatively inexpensive and light material. If necessary, the boards are easy to replace. They are selected from hardwoods, such as oak and larch. Before use, the boards are coated with antifungal impregnations and antiseptic substances. They are laid in the openings of metal corners fixed at the top of the viewing hole. The thickness of each board must be more than 40 mm.

The most suitable option for this purpose are boards

The use of metal is less convenient, since this material is heavy, expensive and resistant to corrosion. During operation, its surface bends.

Video: do-it-yourself viewing hole in the garage

Step-by-step guide to building a vegetable pit with insulation

The construction of a vegetable pit has its own characteristics.

Drawing

For a vegetable pit, both the presence of waterproofing and depth are important.

The place for storing vegetables must be below the freezing point. Otherwise, the meaning of food storage is lost, as they will be spoiled by low temperatures.

The freezing point depends on the region where the garage is located, for example, inin the northern regions the ground freezes up to 150 cm. Given this fact, it is necessary to dig a pit with a depth of at least 190 cm. From 10 to 15 cm must be allocated for the drainage layer under the base, about 10 cm more is required to install the ceiling. 170–175 cm remains for placing shelves, racks and niches for vegetables and lighting. Depth also depends on the height of the host.

Option with optimal dimensions for this structure

The optimal width of the pit for vegetables is 150 cm. This size allows you to optimally place shelves and racks, while the person will not be constrained in movements inside the pit. To select the length, you need to follow the rule - the pit should not reach the walls of the garage closer than 50 cm.

Necessary materials and tools

To make a vegetable pit in the garage, you will need the following materials:

waterproofing sheet;
reinforcing bars;
sand;
gravel;
formwork boards;
metal corners;
wire;
bricks, metal sheets, boards or concrete M 250.

During the construction of this structure, you can not do without such tools:

bayonet and shovel;
concrete mixers;
containers for concrete mix and water;
blowtorch;
double-sided tape;
screwdriver.

Calculations of materials for the construction of a vegetable pit are similar to a viewing pit.

Manufacturing instructions

Having prepared all the necessary tools and materials, you can begin to build a vegetable pit:

Waterproofing device

The issue of isolating the inner surface of the cellar from moisture should be taken especially carefully. This is important, as the smallest hole in the waterproofing will become a source of dampness and cause spoilage of vegetables.

You can proceed to this stage only if the concrete is completely dry. You will need a waterproofing sheet or aquaizol. This material must cover the walls and floor of the vegetable pit. The canvas must be laid with an overlap of at least 15 cm. The joints are fixed with a blowtorch or double-sided tape. All actions with the lamp should be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the canvas, otherwise moisture will get inside the vegetable pit. The same materials cover the outer part of the ceiling of the pit.

Making a viewing or vegetable pit in the garage with your own hands is not difficult at all. It is enough to listen to the recommendations of experts and follow the step-by-step instructions. If desired, these two rooms can be combined.

Hi friends!
As always, climbing on the Internet, I came across a very good topic which may be of interest to many.
I really liked this pit., but the trouble is ... groundwater is very close, and it's scary to make such beauty,))) but if someone helps, I will be very happy)))
mainavi.ru/dom/stroitelst…motrovuyu-yamu-v-garazhe/
STROYPORTAL

The presence of a viewing hole in the garage provides the possibility of self-repair of your own car. You can make it with minimal knowledge in the field of construction and the presence of detailed instructions. Using a step-by-step master class, it will not be difficult to carefully and efficiently prepare and independently build a pit, regardless of the size and layout of the garage.

🔹 Determining the optimal size and shape of the inspection pit

The finished inspection pit should be both safe and convenient to use. Therefore, before starting work, it is recommended to study the geological survey data on the state of the soil and the location of groundwater under the garage. This will determine the optimal depth of the pit. If the groundwater is quite deep, then the recommended height from the floor to the "ceiling" may be about 2 m or less (owner's height + 20-30 cm). Please refer to the drawing for dimensions.

An inspection pit is made in the garage with your own hands after drawing up a project plan for the facility. Its width is determined according to the wheelbase of the car: it should be smaller, ensuring the safe arrival of the car. The length should be at least 1 meter longer than the length of the car: this will allow you to work comfortably in the pit.

Allows the device of a viewing hole the presence of small niches. They can be used to store parts, convenient location of tools. They should not be made too deep. The sizes of niches are recommended to be determined according to the available number of auto tools and spare parts.

🔹 Laying walls and niches in the viewing hole

After digging a foundation pit with predetermined dimensions, you should begin to strengthen the walls, protect them and then lay the bricks. The use of bricks is optimal due to the ease of working with it and ease of purchase. About how to build a viewing hole in the garage from the most available building materials can be found in the following instructions:

1. First you need to make the floor of the inspection hole in the garage: level the bottom of the pit, lay roofing material (with a swim on the walls of about 0.5 m for each of them). Concreting is carried out with the M-200 brand, the floor thickness should be about 10 cm. The size of the length and width of the floor should include the sum of the thickness of the two walls, the length / width of the pit itself and an increase of 10 cm. After pouring, leave the concrete to harden for 4 days.

2. The withdrawal of the walls begins with the laying of 4 rows and the subsequent waterproofing of the inspection pit from the outside using bituminous mastic. This will eliminate the destruction of the walls due to moisture from the ground cover adjacent to the brick. After laying out the walls, you need to fill in the remaining indent from the ground to the brick.

3. The final stage of work will be the installation of a metal frame around the entrance to the pit. It should protrude slightly above the floor level of the garage box.

Niche frames should also be made of a metal corner. This will prevent subsidence of bricks or their destruction.

🔹 Features of the ventilation device and the choice of stairs

High-quality ventilation in the inspection hole of the garage will prevent the appearance of mold and the gradual destruction of the walls. It can be made exclusively exhaust or supply and exhaust. In the first case, when laying out the last rows of bricks, it is necessary to install a pipe that will allow air to be removed from the pit through the garage box upwards (it will go to the garage ventilation pipe or be taken directly to the street). In the second case, an additional pipe is installed, which is diverted to the outside. Its end should be located at a distance of 15 cm from the floor.

Craft comfortable stairs for a viewing hole can be made of wood, metal corners. For a small block, a repositionable ladder will be much more convenient. On the attached photos you can also see examples of pits in which the steps were laid out of brick or concreted.

🔹 Summing up lighting

In the process of laying niches, it is necessary to bring a wire to 36V in an insulating rubber hose. This will allow you to connect the light in the pit and conveniently carry out car lighting during repairs. It is advisable, when performing these stages of work, to invite a qualified electrician who will help to correctly determine the optimal location of the wire and guarantee its protection, and will correctly connect it to the power supply.

A diagnostic pit is always a welcome attribute of a garage. It allows you to comfortably inspect the bottom of the car. A handy motorist with her help will independently replace the oil or a torn cuff. It is from her that the arrangement of the garage should begin. Having spent a certain amount, a pit can be built using hired labor. The article tells how to do this work with your own hands.

What to build a viewing hole from

The inspection pit in the garage is usually built of brick or monolithic reinforced concrete. Both options have their advantages and disadvantages. Brickwork is less labor-intensive, but not as durable and requires additional grouting of external masonry joints before applying waterproofing.

Reinforced concrete walls are stronger and more durable. The disadvantages include the increased complexity of manufacturing. To pour the concrete solution, it is necessary to construct a formwork, inside which reinforcement is knitted. A large amount of solution is required. It is possible to make both brick and concrete walls with your own hands.

Dimensions and position of the inspection hole

It is more rational to tear off the inspection trench at the same time as laying the foundation of the garage. The width of the ditch is usually 70–80 cm. If you take it less than 70 cm, the trench will be tight, wider than 80 cm - there is more risk of falling into a hole, which often happens. Well, if there are a few strong guys nearby. The trench is about 180 cm high, so that there is about 15 cm of clearance from the head to the bottom of the car. The length must be at least two meters, and better - along the length of the car plus 1 meter.

How to make a pit light

Carrying out the arrangement of the garage box, lighting of the viewing hole in the garage should be provided. According to the rules for lighting in repair pits, the use of 220 V incandescent lamps is prohibited. It is allowed to use light sources with lamps of no more than 36 V. A step-down transformer is used to power them. A good option are fluorescent lamps in a sealed housing. If a 24V carrier is used, the safety cable must be at least four meters long.

Underground ventilation

In the repair trench, due to the temperature difference, increased humidity occurs and condensation forms with precipitation on the bottom of the vehicle. To avoid this unpleasant phenomenon, the inspection hole in the garage must have good ventilation. The exhaust channel is made from an asbestos-cement or plastic sewer pipe embedded in the crushed stone floor preparation. This pipe must be connected with a transition elbow to a vertical exhaust riser. Hoods from under the ceiling of the garage box and trenches must be independent. If you combine them into one - ventilation efficiency technical underground will drop sharply.

The contours of the pit

Before marking out a place in the garage for a future trench, it is necessary to draw its cross section. The clear dimension of the trench should be taken as a basis. For example, the width will be 70 cm. Double the wall thickness must be added to this value. If the latter is 20 cm, it will turn out: 70 + (2 × 20) \u003d 110 cm. Add another margin - 5 cm on each side. Ultimately, the width of the trench at the bottom will be: 110 + (2 × 5) = 120 cm. In order to facilitate the subsequent application of coating waterproofing, the walls of the trench should be made inclined. To do this, it is enough to increase the width of the trench on the garage floor by 60 cm (30 cm per side). That is, at the top, the width of the ditch will be 180 cm. By the same principle, they dig trenches for the foundation.

Bucket or shovel

If the inspection hole in the garage is made simultaneously with the pouring of the foundation, it makes sense to resort to the services of an excavator. All work will be completed in half a day. The costs will be the same order as if you hire diggers. Sometimes it happens that in the season you still can’t find them. Well, if the idea came to arrange a technical trench when the garage has already been built? There is only one way out - to dig a pit with your own hands. In order not to do unnecessary work, some excavated soil should be stored near the construction site, since the earth will be needed for backfill sinuses.

The base of the trench from penetrating moisture should be protected by waterproofing. On the compacted bottom of the pit, a 10-centimeter footing is preliminarily poured. For preparation, a solution of grade M 150 is sufficient. In width, the preparatory layer is flush with the outer surface of the future walls of the trench. Any type of rolled insulating material is used to isolate the sole - roofing felt, Bikrost, Aquaizol, polymer membranes. Cloths should be cut with an overlap on the walls.

A concrete floor is poured over the insulating layer. The brand is taken stronger - M 200. A thickness of 7–8 cm is enough, but it is better to reinforce the surface to be poured with a 150 × 150 road mesh with a wire thickness of 4 (3) mm.

Wall construction rules

To paraphrase Henry Ford, we can say - the design of the walls of the trench can be any, provided that it is rigid and durable. So that in the near future the walls do not bulge and crack, you should know how they should not be done:

lay brick walls in one spoon (120 mm thick);
make brickwork without reinforcement;
use silicate products for masonry;
pour the concrete mixture directly into the ground (from the outside of the ditch);
pour concrete without reinforcement;
use concrete.

Combined wall

One of the options structures of the enclosing structure with their own hands. The outer walls of the pit are dug out inclined, with a margin in width, in order to provide further access for waterproofing work. Lay out 4-5 rows of brickwork in half a brick along the entire internal contour of the future structure. This partition will serve as an internal formwork. The outer one is installed, retreating 130 mm from the folded wall immediately to the entire height of the trench, using old boards, plywood sheets, chipboard, OSB and other similar materials. They support it with spacers and jibs, after which a concrete solution is poured with the upper edge of the masonry.

A reinforcing masonry mesh 250 mm wide with a cell of 50 × 50 and a wire thickness of 4 or 5 mm is laid. Lay out the next section and install the reinforcement again. For better adhesion to concrete, the outer surface of the brickwork is made “into the wasteland”. The rigidity of the structure will be given by closed belts of reinforcement bars with a diameter of 10 mm, laid at the bottom and top of the fence. In order to subsequently equip the lighting of the viewing hole in the garage, niches are provided for installing lamps. Waterproofing, if provided for by the project, is carried out after the removal of the outer formwork.

Survey ditch and groundwater

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to make a survey ditch in the garage. When groundwater (GW) is located under the garage at a depth of less than two meters, it is not worth starting construction. Life shows that in this case no waterproofing of the walls will help. When the GW are below 2.5 meters, a trench can be built, provided that high-quality waterproofing of the external walls of the inspection ditch is performed. It can be done with your own hands from several layers of pasting material: roofing felt, TechnoNIKOL, Stekloizol, Hydrostekloizol and others. Glue the surfaces with molten bitumen. There are penetrating materials: Hydrotex, Aquatron-6, Penetron. They are convenient in that they are applied to wet concrete and reduce waiting time. good clay castle oily crumpled clay serves.

global warming

So that the inspection hole in the garage is not covered with frost in winter, it can be insulated. To do this, the outer walls, on which waterproofing is applied, must be pasted over with insulation boards - polystyrene foam 5 cm thick. If such insulation is laid in 2 layers under the blind area around the perimeter of the entire garage, the floor in the garage and the trench will be even warmer.

Trench at full speed

In order not to accidentally fall into the pit, you need to make a fencing deck over it. The simplest design is thick transverse boards laid inside the edging from the corners, installed using embedded elements or fixed anchor bolts. For this purpose, woodworking waste is well suited - slabs laid with a bulge down. The inspection hole in the garage, closed by them, when viewed from below, resembles a front-line dugout.

Finally

The construction of an observation trench resembles the pouring of a foundation and goes through the same steps:

markup;
excavation;
sole manufacturing;
walling;
waterproofing;
warming.

Having completed the construction of a trench made of reinforced concrete or brick, it is arranged. From the inside, the pit can be plastered or tiled. Such an "underground", built with your own hands, will allow you to drive a car with complete confidence in its technical condition. After all, by connecting the lighting of the viewing hole in the garage, you can regularly assess the condition of the chassis of your car.

In contact with

Classmates

To what motorist knows how sometimes you need inspection hole in the garage! It happens, a nonsense breakdown, fix it once to spit, but try, get there! Or change the oil - five minutes of work, but you have to drag yourself to the service station and pay an amount that is completely incommensurable with the work!

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It might be worth shedding a little sweat, working a few days off and getting rid of such difficulties forever! You will learn how to make a viewing hole here.

We start work. Pit marking

As for all, even the simplest structures, we begin the construction of our pit with markings, that is, with determining the shape and size of the future pit. This is necessary, especially since we will be digging a hole in an already built, or even existing one. Which, you see, complicates our task, if only because of the cramped working conditions.

We will mark the excavation based on the fact that the soil forming the walls of the excavation will have a certain slope, while the dimensions of the inspection hole must be kept within the limits that make the work convenient.

This is on the one hand. On the other hand, when parking, the driver should not be covered in cold sweat for fear that the car will fail. For insurance against slipping, we will take certain steps, but more on that later.

Based on all the requirements mentioned, we will determine the width of the pit "clean" (that is, the width of the working space) at 70 cm. This is enough for convenient operation, moreover, even for the crumbs "Daewoo Matiz" (track 128 cm) there will be room for maneuver of about 20 centimeters (between the pit and the wheel). And for the Zhiguli, with their track of 132 cm, the width can be made even larger. Five to ten centimeters, but that's not bad either.

We determine the length based on personal concepts of the convenience of work, as well as the size of the garage, but making it less than two meters is hardly justified.

On the floor of the garage we draw (or mark with pegs) a rectangle of our pit, then we add the thickness of the walls on all four sides and, guided by the qualities of soil stability, we give an approximate margin for the slope of the earthen walls. For dense loams, this value is approximately 20-30 cm.

Depth, we determine from the requirements of ergonomics, and in relation to our beloved one. It is clear that by bending over or standing on tiptoe, you will not gain much. Therefore, we calculate our pit in such a way that there would be a distance of 25-30 cm from the top of the head to the bottom of the car.

With a clearance of about 16 cm (Zhiguli) and a working height of 180 cm, the depth (again, “clean”) will be about 1.70 -1.80 m. It’s better to dig a little than not to dig, if necessary, under your feet you can always substitute a bench, or make a raised floor at the right height. All this is clearly shown in Fig. one.

Do-it-yourself earthwork for a viewing hole

Now we have to imagine ourselves as a mole for a while. After all, it will be necessary to take out about 9 cubic meters of earth, a lot, especially if you dig by hand, and the soil is solid. But let's console ourselves with the fact that this is the most time-consuming part of the work (in extreme cases, excavators can be hired).

Part of the soil must be left, stored next to the garage, or inside it. This land will be useful for backfilling the sinuses, after the walls of our structure are completed. We export the rest of the land. When calculating the equipment necessary for the removal, it must be taken into account that the volume of loosened earth will be approximately 20-25% larger than the volume of the pit.

We level the earthen floor of the pit, and then compact it with crushed stone. To do this, we pour crushed stone in an even layer, with a thickness equal to one and a half times the size of the largest pieces. After that, we “drive” crushed stone into the ground with a rammer.

An inspection pit in the garage will be much more convenient for work if niches are placed in the walls where you can put tools, spare parts, etc. Places for niches must be provided in advance, at the stage of earthworks.

How to make walls and floors of a viewing hole with your own hands

For walls, the most common and proven options are two: block masonry (brick) and in-situ concrete. Both solutions have their advantages and disadvantages. We recommend and will continue to consider monolithic concrete. At the cost of materials (especially if you prepare concrete yourself) it will be cheaper. When installing embedded parts, you can perform their high-quality, durable fastening. And the building as a whole will be more reliable.

We start with the fact that we make a concrete floor on the soil compacted with crushed stone. Six to seven centimeters of thickness will be more than enough for him. We reinforce the floor with a wire mesh with a cell of no more than 150x150 mm and a reinforcement thickness of 4-5 mm.

We will prepare concrete based on the following proportions per 1 cubic meter of concrete: 300 kg (0.28 m 3) of PC cement, grade 400; 680 kg (0.47 m 3) of sand, 1210 kg (0.9 m 3) of crushed stone of a fraction of 5-20 mm and 210 liters of water. When kneading by hand, more water will have to be added to make the mixture more mobile, but when using a concrete mixer, it is better to keep proportions close to those indicated. If you add water noticeably more than the norm, we will also increase the amount of cement by ten to fifteen kilograms.

The concrete obtained in this way will have a compressive strength grade of 200, which is more than enough for us.

We will make the walls 15 centimeters thick, this is quite enough for our pit. The composition of concrete is slightly different than for the floor: cement 360 kg (0.33 m 3), sand 670 kg (0.46 m 3), crushed stone 1168 kg (0.86 m 3), water is still the same 210 liters.

We will concrete the walls in layers, in tiers thirty to forty centimeters high, compacting with a bayonet, for which a narrow shovel is well suited. It is impossible to compress a thicker array manually with high quality, unless you can get a deep vibrator somewhere (say, rent it). But in this case, you should not make a tier more than 50 cm.

As a formwork, we use OSB sheets with a thickness of 10-12 mm. Subsequently, the OSB will come in handy for various garage needs: to make shelves or racks, door trim for insulation, etc.

When constructing the walls of a viewing hole, reinforcement is sometimes neglected, but it is better not to be stingy and still perform this operation. As reinforcement, you can use the same mesh as for the floor. Install it at a distance of 3 cm or a little less from the inner plane of the wall. Installed immediately to the entire height of the pit, the mesh will interfere great, therefore, we will mount it in strips, in the course of concreting.

, immediately execute the device wall niches. We reinforce the “ceiling” of the niches along the entire length with two or three reinforcing bars (A-III reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm will be enough), so that they do not move, we fasten them together with wire.

In the last tier, it would be useful to provide inclined cylindrical “glasses”, where we will subsequently install lamps. The device of such glasses can be provided by obliquely inserting a plastic sewer pipe cut at an angle into the formwork (see Fig. 2).

We frame the perimeter of the pit with an embedded part welded from corners with a shelf width of 60-70 mm. The “whiskers” (anchors) of the embedded part are made from reinforcement identical to the one that we used when reinforcing niches. We take the length of the anchor equal to 50 cm. If, when installing the part, the anchor does not enter the height of the tier, you can bend it as needed.

The framing performs several tasks: it strengthens the corner of the wall, serves as a “clip” for laying the floorboard flooring, and finally, as already mentioned, plays the role of a safety curb that prevents the car wheel from slipping into the pit (see Fig. 2).

So that our concrete does not collapse when moving the formwork, you need to let it grab for two to three days. After the device of the last tier, before the start of backfilling, let it stand for at least a week.

We backfill with loam, in layers of 15-20 cm, carefully tamping each layer. Ideally, backfilling can be done with the so-called "incompressible" soil (crushed stone, gravel). However, it is expensive, and besides, it is not particularly necessary for a passenger car.

You can go for a trick. After we do it, do not immediately concrete the floor, but sprinkle it with crushed stone to the desired height (if the floor has already been completed in the garage). In a couple of weeks, driving in and out of the garage, you will compact the soil in the sinuses with your wheels, after which you can safely concrete the floor, it is guaranteed that it will not sag.

Additional work on the construction of a viewing hole in the garage

Making a viewing hole is not enough, you also need to “equip” it. To do this, we install lamps, and, we make the overlap of the pit (flooring).

For flooring, we use wide board "forty" (40 mm thick). Boards can be knocked down into several shields, but you should not make them too large and heavy.

If a voltage of 220V is used, the wires must be hidden in a corrugated sleeve (preferably steel). Sockets and switches are semi-hermetic, waterproof.

Do-it-yourself waterproofing of a viewing hole

If the groundwater level is high in your area, and there is a danger that the inspection hole will be flooded, high-quality waterproofing is necessary.

We will perform a comprehensive waterproofing and, as the first "line of defense", we will use a barrier made of rolled materials.

We lay a layer of waterproofing film (aquaizol, butyl rubber, etc.) under the floor concrete in such a way that the edges of the panel go onto the walls no less than 15-20 cm around the entire perimeter. When concreting the walls, we sequentially lay layers of insulation. We carry out laying with an overlap, not less than 15 cm.

If there is a danger of flooding, we make it with oily clay, ramming it in layers of 15-20 cm.

The final measure of protection will be the addition of water-repellent additives to concrete during its preparation.

In custody

A few words about "labor protection", more precisely, the protection of your health, from this very work.

Performing earthworks in unstable soils, be sure to arrange the fastening of the walls of the pit, (to ensure their slope along the line of repose, the task is obviously more time-consuming). The fact that the soils are unstable and prone to collapse will be seen already at the beginning of the earthworks.

Fastening is carried out by laying boards on the walls and fixing them with spacers. This is desirable to do when the depth of the pit reaches a meter or a little more.

However, if the ground is unstable, then it is likely that without strengthening the walls, further work will become extremely difficult, or even stop altogether.

doing work, do not neglect personal protective equipment(tarpaulin mittens, sturdy work boots). Working as a perforator, jackhammer, grinder don't be afraid to wear safety goggles otherwise, a viewing hole in the garage can be expensive.

And finally work with a partner. Even if your partner has red pigtails and is twelve years old! The tool will give or bring water. You don’t need a lot of strength for this and you will get used to work! And if something goes wrong, he can call for help.

Experience in the construction of a viewing hole (video)

Ask questions either. , photos, we will publish them on the site. Order work from specialists! Support the project! Good luck to you, Good to your House!

Carrying out maintenance or minor repairs to the car, many try to do it themselves. In order not to lie under the car on your back, you need a viewing hole in the garage.

Dimensions of the inspection hole in the garage

This is far from dogma. Everyone does as he sees fit. Some deep holes seem uncomfortable and they make them almost exactly in height, and sometimes even lower - 1.5 meters. If you take into account the clearance of the car, from the floor of the pit to the bottom of the car you get about 1.7-1.8 meters. You can do that too.

Another point in length. Sometimes a long hole cannot be made. Then it is made about half the length of the car, driving it in front or behind, depending on which part of the car needs to be inspected or repaired.

Now about where to place the pit in the garage. Usually it is slightly shifted to one of the walls, leaving a wide side for installing equipment, storing spare parts, etc. At the same time, there should be at least 1 meter from the edge of the pit to the nearest wall.

That's all there is to it. Just note that we were talking about the final dimensions of the pit. When marking the pit, you will need to add thickness to the walls, and dig deeper to the height of the floor screed (if you do it).

What materials are they made from

The inspection pit in the garage (its walls) is laid out with bricks, heavy building blocks, made of monolithic concrete. If we talk about bricks, then it is better to use ceramic brick: it is not afraid of humidity. The walls are made in half a brick or brick. The wall thickness, depending on the masonry method, is 12 cm or 25 cm. This must be taken into account when marking the pit.

Brick can be used on dry, dense soils. The groundwater level should be low. If the water is high, it is better to make the walls of the pit from reinforced concrete.

Building blocks also need to choose those that are not afraid of high humidity. This is concrete blocks. The rest, if used, then with mandatory external waterproofing, and this is not a guarantee that they will not crumble, especially if groundwater is located close.

With a concrete inspection pit, everything is simpler: concrete is not afraid of moisture, it only becomes stronger from it. Concrete grade M 250 is used to fill the walls, M 200 is enough for the floor. Why is that? Because during winter heaving, the main load falls on the walls. So that they do not “fold”, a margin of safety is required, which is achieved by reinforcing and using high-strength concrete. By the way, in order to avoid heaving of the soil under the garage, it is necessary to make a good blind area so that the water leaves and does not soak into the soil.

The wall thickness when filling the inspection pit with concrete is from 15 cm. The stacks must be reinforced. To do this, use a finished mesh with a wire thickness of 5-6 mm and a pitch of 150 mm (if the groundwater is deep) or knit a frame of reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The reinforcement installation step is 20 cm. For greater strength, you can make a single rod to the bottom and walls, bending it accordingly.

Waterproofing methods

The inspection pit in the garage can be protected from moisture penetration in two ways: with the help of external waterproofing, which is carried out exclusively during the construction process, and internal, which can also be done during operation.

Outdoor protection

If the groundwater at the construction site of the garage is deep, lower than 2.5 meters and does not rise higher even in spring or after heavy rains, you can do without waterproofing. On the other hand, the hydrological situation is constantly changing, and where it used to be dry, water may appear. If a viewing hole in the garage has already been built, you cannot do external waterproofing. It remains only to use deep penetration impregnations to reduce the hygroscopicity of the walls. Therefore, if possible, make external insulation anyway.

How to prevent moisture from entering the inspection hole in the garage? Most often used waterproofing films or membranes (butyl rubber, aquaizol, etc.). They are laid in panels, covering the pit from one edge to the other, releasing 10-15 cm on each side of the pit onto the garage floor. The sheets are overlapped. They should overlap by at least 15 cm. To get a more airtight joint, they are glued with double-sided tape, it is possible in two strips - at the beginning and end of the "overlap". The film is well straightened so that it fits snugly against the walls of the pit. At further work it is important not to damage the membrane.

Internal waterproofing

Internal waterproofing is usually the impregnation of walls with coated waterproofing. If possible - composition for pools. It creates a waterproof dense film, very reminiscent of rubber. It has a blue color and after hardening it washes well. It is better to process the walls with this composition twice, or more.

Another option is a cement-based deep penetration primer. The polymer particles contained in it block the capillaries through which moisture penetrates through the thickness of the material. One such treatment significantly reduces the hygroscopicity of the material. In the case of water in the garage pit, at least two treatments are necessary (and even more is better).

Caisson device

There is another option to escape from the ground - to make a metal caisson. Brewed from sheet metal a box of appropriate sizes, treated with anti-corrosion compounds, then installed in a pit. If the welds are sealed, there will be no water, but another problem may arise. With a large amount of water, the caisson can squeeze out. It is said to "float".

To avoid such a situation, corners and rods are welded to the sides of the caisson from the outside, which go 1-1.5 meters into the ground. So that at the same time the volume of earthworks is not very large (the pit, taking into account these spacers, turns out to be large), you can cheat. Before installing the caisson, drive corners or metal rods into the ground, releasing their ends outward. You can weld them to the body of the caisson after installation. The pit will still have to be made larger (it is necessary to cook from the outside), but its dimensions will still be smaller. The second plus of this method is that the rods will be driven into dense soil, which means that they will better hold the caisson.

Another way to exclude the “emergence” of the caisson is to make a hole in the wall at a certain height. If the water rises to its level, it will begin to pour inward. Water can subsequently be pumped out, the main thing is that everything remains in place. The inspection pit in the garage, arranged according to this principle, stood for more than 20 years - until the metal rusted.

Pit for collecting water

If the pit has already been built, and coating waterproofing or impregnation did not give the desired result, it is necessary either to arrange a drainage system around the garage, or to collect water in one place. To do this, a pit is made in the garage inspection hole, at one of its ends. Water accumulates in it, from where it is pumped out by a pump. For the system to work automatic mode, put a water presence sensor, which, when triggered, turns on the pump.

Formwork is made under the pit, poured with concrete. Then they make the waterproofing of the pit along with the waterproofing of the entire pit. For reliability, you can also put a metal caisson inside.

Since in this case it is impossible to get rid of dampness completely, they knock down holes on the floor boardwalk. In order for the boards to rot, they can be impregnated with mining. If you do not like its smell, take a special impregnation for wood that has direct contact with the ground (Senezh Ultra, for example).

Insulation of a viewing hole in the garage

If you spend a lot of time in the garage, then you will most likely have heating. To warm up faster and faster, it makes sense to insulate the pit. EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) is best suited for these purposes. It withstands significant loads, is not afraid of dampness, does not rot, fungi and bacteria do not multiply on it.

EPS thickness to create a tangible effect - from 50 mm. Lay it between the soil and the wall of the pit. Then from the outside-inside the pit will look like this:

Expanded polystyrene can also be laid under the screed at the bottom of the inspection hole. A reinforcing mesh is usually laid on top of it, and then concrete is poured.

How to make a viewing hole in the garage

After you have decided on the dimensions and what material the walls will be made of, what thickness they will be, you can start marking the pit. This can be done using pegs driven in around the perimeter. The second option is to pull the twine / rope between the stakes driven in at the corners. According to the markup, we begin to dig a pit. The earth is usually taken out and temporarily stored near the gate.

From brick: step by step photo report

Along with earthworks monitor soil moisture. If you have reached the design depth (required + floor screed thickness), but there is still no moisture, you can do without waterproofing. Those who do not want to take risks can be advised to immediately lay the film.

We level the walls. It is not necessary to achieve ideal geometry, but there should not be noticeable humps and pits. We also level the bottom of the pit, ramming, compacting the soil well. Usually a manual rammer is used. A layer of crushed stone is poured at the bottom (two times 5 cm), each layer is also carefully rammed. Next comes a layer of sand. It is enough 5 cm. The sand is moistened, rammed to high density- so that the foot is not imprinted. Next, lay the waterproofing film.

We level it well, tucking it into corners. We lay the panels with an overlap of 15 cm, which we glue with double-sided tape. So that the edges do not roll, we press with improvised materials - boards, stones.

We lay a layer of insulation on the bottom, on it - a reinforcing wire mesh. We fill all this with concrete grade M 200. The layer thickness is at least 5 cm. To make it easier to navigate when laying, we make marks on the film by which you can control the layer thickness.

If you use Portland cement M 400, the proportions will be as follows - cement 1 part, sand - 3, crushed stone of medium and fine fraction - 5 parts.

An inspection pit is being built in the garage: the floor is filled with concrete

We are waiting for several days until the concrete gains 50% strength. The exact time depends on the temperature. If it is around + 20 ° C, you will have to wait 5-6 days. If +17°C it's already two weeks.

Let's start laying out the walls. It was decided to do in half a brick. We used used bricks, about 850 pieces went (pit size 4.2 * 0.8 * 1.7 m). Up to the level of the elbow, the walls were laid out in a circle.

At the level of 1.2 meters from the floor, it was decided to make a niche for the instrument. Its height is 3 rows of bricks, the top is covered with a processed board.

In order not to have to lay out a brick niche, a metal insert is inserted. Welded box, suitable in size.

Further, the walls were driven out almost to the level with the garage floor. Part of the walls was replaced by two sections of channels. Jacks rest against the bottom if necessary. A metal corner with a shelf of 50 mm is laid on the top row, the thickness of the steel is 5 mm.

The corner unfolds so that one of its shelves is hung down, the second covers the part upper surface bricks. So that the wall does not collapse under load, mortgages are welded to this corner, which are then connected to the concrete reinforcing belt.

Filling the floor in the garage - the level of concrete along the upper edge of the corner

Features of the manufacture of concrete walls

When casting concrete walls, it is necessary to make a formwork. It's easier to make it from sheet material- building moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 16 mm or more, OSB. Are knocking down shields required size, strengthened with bars on the outside. They are necessary so that plywood or OSB does not bend under the pressure of concrete. First put the outer parts of the formwork. If the walls of the pit are even, there will be no problems. You just lean them on, put them straight.

Then the internal formwork panels are exposed. Between them there must be a distance of at least 15 cm. So that during the pouring process the walls are not deformed, spacers are placed between them.

Filling is desirable to carry out at a time. Filled portions must be bayoneted or processed with a submersible vibrator for concrete. Remove the formwork after two or three days. After that, you can install a corner with welded embedded rods (strips) and proceed with pouring the floor.

Today we will talk about how to make a viewing hole in the garage. For many motorists, this is a necessary element of a garage building, because many of us are trying to save money, which is why some preventive work related to the car, spend on their own. We must immediately make a reservation that with the seeming simplicity of the design of the inspection pit, it is not so easy to build it. Therefore, most garage owners prefer to invite experienced craftsmen to get guaranteed high quality end result. But in order for the guarantee to be one hundred percent, you yourself need to know the technology for building a garage pit. Therefore, read the article, remember everything, and this will be a guarantee that the masters will not deceive you.

Inspection hole in the garage

Planning the construction of a viewing hole

There is two situations when building a hole in the garage:

in a newly erected building;

already in operation.

The first option is simpler, because nothing prevents digging the soil to the size of the intended structure. To do this, you can even use the services of an excavator, thereby speeding up the process itself and moving away from labor-intensive earthworks.

But both situations happen often, so we will deal with them separately. But first, let's talk about the size of the pit in the garage under the car.

Inspection hole dimensions

The basis of dimensional indicators is the automobile base, or rather, the distance between the wheels of your car, both in width and in length. But there are also minimum width parameters, which are often taken as a basis. This is 80-85 cm. As for the length, 1 m is added to the length of the car. Although we must pay tribute that for the convenience of using the inspection pit, many do not stop at this size, so in garages you can find pits up to 6 m long.

Sketch showing the minimum width of the inspection hole

Now with depth. It is clear that the growth of the owner of the garage and should be this size. At the same time, he must reach with his hands any part or assembly on the machine. But experts recommend deepening the viewing hole to 2 m. And even if a person is small, you can always install a stand or flooring at the bottom. True, this is not always possible. Much will depend on the level of groundwater flow. If it is high, for example, 1.2-1.5 m, then you can forget about the pit.

These were dimensions. Now about the size of the building. For obvious reasons, the pit itself under the pit is dug out more. This is due to the fact that in order to form the structure itself, it is necessary to equip the structure. And for this, it is necessary to lay a pillow with waterproofing on the bottom and fill it with a screed. The walls are assembled from blocks or bricks or poured into a formwork as a monolithic structure. For all these materials, space is required without taking into account the selected dimensions of the observation structure.

Therefore, a pit is dug with a width equal to the width of the viewing hole, plus the thickness of the walls, plus 30 cm. The length is calculated in the same way. Depth is the thickness of the pillow, the thickness of the screed and the waterproofing layer, plus 1.8-2.0 m.

Sketch of a viewing hole with all dimensions

On our site you can find the most popular - from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-rise Country".

Inspection pit construction technology

We will not tell you how to build a garage with a pit that is being built. It's not that hard. Let's talk about how to make a viewing hole in an already operated garage.

Marking the pit inside the garage

Usually the floor in the garage is thick concrete screed, in which a reinforcing frame in the form of a lattice of steel reinforcement is laid. Therefore, according to the marking, it is necessary to gouge the concrete and cut off the reinforcement along the perimeter of the pit.

A sand and gravel pad and soil are removed from the resulting opening with shovels. The walls and bottom of the pit are leveled with shovels to the maximum. This is a laborious job that can take up to two days. Although much will depend on the composition of the soil under the building and the activity of the craftsmen. There is one advantage when building a viewing hole in an operated garage. The construction site is under a canopy, so rain in this case no problem.

Digging a pit (excavation)

Pit ventilation

The mistake is made by those who do not think about ventilation system. But its purpose is not only to remove moist air. Musty smells from oily rags, gasoline will fill a small space quickly, gradually moving into the garage itself. So it is better to spend a little time and money, but to build ventilation.

In fact, this is a plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, which is taken out of the building. To do this, they dig a horizontal trench, which is removed either under the foundation or through the wall. Sand is poured into it and a pipe is laid with a conclusion above the roof of the garage. The lower end should be at the bottom of the hole.

Ventilation pipe inside the inspection hole

Arrangement of a viewing hole

So, let's move on to the main work related to the construction of the pit itself. Prepare the bottom first:

fall asleep layer of sand 15-20 cm thick rammed with watering.

Fall asleep rubble medium or fine fraction with a thickness of 10 cm, which is also rammed.

Held waterproofing the entire pit: floor and walls.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of designing and building garages and other "small architectural forms" for a country house. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Waterproofing

Waterproofing the inspection hole in the garage is a crucial stage. So understand this process.

Roll material is used for waterproofing works. It can be a polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.2 mm, laid with a sleeve. To do this, use roofing material or modern waterproofing materials based on bitumen.

Waterproofing strips are laid in strips from wall to wall overlapping relative to each other with an offset of 10-15 cm. Bituminous products in overlapping areas are fastened with bituminous mastic. Polyethylene film fastened self-adhesive tapes. The photo below just shows the option with polyethylene. Please note that the edges of the waterproofing lead outside the pit and are pressed with a load.

Waterproofing the inspection hole in the garage with a plastic film

Formation of the floor and walls

The prepared bottom is poured with a screed 3-7 cm thick. No reinforcing frame should be laid in it, because the structure is not subjected to loads, except for the weight of a person. Therefore, the main attention is the construction of the walls.

As mentioned above, there are two options:

use bricks or blocks;

erect a monolithic structure.

In the first case, block wall material is laid along the perimeter of the prepared excavation, laying masonry elements with a band. That is, with an offset of half a block or brick. For bonding, use the usual masonry mortar with the formulation 1:2 (cement-sand).

Pit made of blocks or bricks

If a monolithic structure is being built, then formwork is assembled for this. It is made from boards, slabs or sheets of even and durable materials. For example, from a metal sheet or corrugated board, plywood or OSB boards.

The main task is to assemble the formwork so that it does not disperse under the action of sufficiently heavy weight poured concrete. If the soil under the garage is clayey, then the formwork is mounted as one layer of fences from the outside. The wall of the pit covered with waterproofing will be able to easily withstand any load. If the soil is sandy, loose and fragile, then the formwork is installed in two layers, leaving space between them for pouring the concrete solution.

Concrete is poured at one time, without leaving the next day. A break can be between fillings, but not more than 4 hours. Look at the photo, this is what the formwork looks like with concrete mortar poured into it.

Observation pit, like a monolithic concrete structure

It is recommended to lay a reinforcing frame in the form of a lattice of reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm in concrete walls. Lattices are installed along the walls so that they are in the middle of the formwork space. On adjacent walls, the frames are interconnected with a knitting wire.

A week after pouring the concrete solution, the formwork is removed. But concrete will gain its strength only after 28 days. After that, you need to prime the surface of the structure and think over the type of finish. The best option- ceramic tile. She washes well. But you can paint the pit, plaster or brick it. As for the pit made of bricks or blocks, it must be plastered, then whitewashed or tiled.

In principle, we can assume that the construction of a viewing hole in the garage is completed. It should be added that often a restrictive structure is laid along the perimeter of the structure flush with the floor. This is steel corner, welded in the form of a rectangle, equal to the size of the inspection hole. It is attached to pins or studs laid in the process of pouring concrete.

plastic models

Today, manufacturers of products made of polymeric and plastic materials offer ready-made plastic pits for the garage. Gotta give credit this species products that simplified the construction of inspection pits. There are more and more offers on the market every year. There is not only a wide range of sizes, but also a variety of raw materials, and prices vary significantly.

For the finished pit, there is no need to carry out waterproofing. The main thing is to lay a good sand cushion and fill with sand the space between the walls of the excavated recess and the plastic product itself.

Video description

In order for you to understand what we are talking about, we suggest watching a video that describes one of the models on the market.

Video description

About the errors of arranging a pit in the garage - the following video:

Conclusion on the topic

So, we have analyzed the topic - a viewing hole in the garage (dimensions and construction rules). How complicated the whole construction process is, you can judge. But keep in mind that the exact dimensions of the pit are the key to success. They made the hole smaller - it will be inconvenient to be in it. They made more, especially in width, then there is a possibility that the car simply cannot fit on it.