Warm floor on reinforced concrete slabs. Do-it-yourself concrete floor screed: a detailed process of how to fill the floors with a concrete screed. What a developer needs to know about floor construction on the ground

The concrete subfloor is currently perhaps the most widespread both in residential and industrial construction. It is suitable for almost any topcoat or can, after appropriate processing, be used independently. Its main advantages, subject to the pouring technology, are high strength, resistance to destruction, and durability of use. It is not surprising that when conducting private construction or when repairing an apartment, in the vast majority of cases, homeowners stop at just such a technology for arranging the floor.

Is it worth inviting specialist builders, or is a do-it-yourself concrete floor screed a completely affordable process for the average homeowner? This publication is devoted to the answers to these questions.

Types of concrete floor screeds

Concrete floor screeds can have a different design, be performed using slightly different technologies and be designed for different purposes.

• So, they can only serve to level the floor before installation. finish coat. Powerful couplers serve as the reliable basis in rooms where the increased mechanical loadings are provided. they can also perform the functions of providing the required thermal balance, acting, for example, as powerful heat accumulators in "warm floor" systems. Screeds often close communication systems. Can they used and in order to create a certain slope in those rooms where it is necessary.
• Concrete screeds differ in the number of layers:

- They can be single-layer, that is, they can be poured simultaneously to the entire estimated height. This is usually used in industrial, utility or auxiliary non-residential premises, where there are no increased requirements for evenness of the floor.

- Multilayer screeds are poured in several stages. Usually the first layer serves as a rough base, and the top layer creates a level surface for further paving work. This approach is also used in cases where the total thickness of the required screed reaches too large sizes, and it is more expedient to perform it in layers.

• Screeds also differ in the degree of adhesion to the base:

- Bonded ties have direct contact with the base. Of course, with this pouring technology, maximum homogeneity of materials and their high adhesion to each other should be ensured. Such coatings are characterized by good strength qualities in terms of withstanding high mechanical loads. However, the state of the surface layer will largely depend on the moisture level of the substrate. Such screeds are mainly performed on dry floor slabs on the floors of buildings.

- In the case when the base does not have sufficient waterproofing, a sleep screed is used on the separating layer. layer of waterproofing material(roofing felt, polymer film, coating composition) becomes an obstacle to the penetration of moisture from below, and the screed itself has no contact with the base. With this technology, the layer of the poured solution cannot be less than 30 mm and, as a rule, needs to be reinforced.

A similar technology is often used when arranging a screed on the ground, for example, in garages, a barn, basements, on the first floors of houses without basements. They also use it in rooms with a high level of humidity.

- Where enhanced thermal insulation of the floor is required or there is a need for sound insulation, floating screeds are used. In this case concrete mortar poured over a layer of insulation of one type or another. The screed turns into a completely independent design- a slab that is not connected either with the base or with the walls of the room. The minimum thickness of the fill in this case is at least 50 mm, and the reinforcement of the screed becomes a prerequisite.

The humidity of such a screed is absolutely independent of the state of the base, a good insulating effect is achieved. Disadvantages - excessively large thickness, and therefore - the load on the floor. Typically, such screeds are used only on the first floors of residential or outbuildings, especially if pouring is carried out on the ground.

• Screeds can be made with a homogeneous solution or include certain fillers:

— Addition of cement-sand mortar of expanded polystyrene chips significantly increases the thermal insulation properties of the coating.

Typically, such screeds require a second, reinforcing and leveling layer.

- Where screeds of large thickness or with increased thermal insulation qualities are required, expanded clay is added to the concrete solution.

Expanded clay concrete has sufficient strength, but for the flooring of some coatings, it will also be necessary to fill the front layer from a conventional solution. But ceramic tiles can be laid directly on such a base.

Good ones performance show screeds with micro-reinforcement fiberglass. This technology allows you to dramatically increase the strength of the coating to mechanical stress, to stretching, bending.

Such screeds usually do not give tons of cracks, are less prone to shrinkage during solidification, they have less dust formation. They are great for underfloor heating systems.

• floors can be performed according to the classical, "wet" technology, or semi-dry. Semi-dry screed is a relatively new thing, and not all more ready to put it to the test. In addition, it requires special professionalism in the preparation of the mortar mixture, in laying out, compacting and leveling the mortar. Most home builders prefer to use the proven "wet" technology, which will be discussed later in the article. However, if you are limited on time, consider inviting semi-dry screed laying experts. When choosing a contractor, pay attention to the technology used - the presence of a mechanized supply of the composition will ensure cleanliness in the apartment. For example, the EUROSTROY 21 VEK company is engaged in laying a semi-dry screed using the latest technology (the company's website www.prestigehouse.ru).

Solutions for pouring concrete screed

It is quite natural that, if necessary, pour a concrete screed, first of all, you will need to decide on the type of solution. There are several options in this matter.

According to the existing canons of SNiP, the minimum strength of an ordinary concrete screed, regardless of the type of its further lining, should be at least M-150 (the coating can withstand a force of 150 kg / cm²). If used self-levelling jellied composition, here the requirements are even higher - from M-200. In accordance with these requirements, the solution should be selected.

1. The "classic" concrete mortar used for pouring a conventional floor screed is a cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1: 3. This “recipe” is time-tested and fully justifies itself. However, there are several nuances, without which you can easily spoil the future screed:

• For the preparation of concrete, you can not use the usual "washed" river sand, not passed special processing. The hardened surface will not be durable, it will begin to crumble, crumble and crack over time. The fact is that grains of sand have outlines smoothed out from prolonged exposure to water, not providing proper clutch. In this regard, quarry sand is much better, with its faceted grains of sand irregular shape. True, when choosing, you need to carefully look so that it does not come across a large number of clay inclusions - this will also reduce the strength of the screed.

The presence of a small amount of gravel component of the fine fraction will not affect the strength properties of the screed. However, if a flat surface is required, it will be necessary to sift the sand through a sieve.

• A very important condition for the strength and durability of the poured screed is the optimally selected amount of water. It is no secret that some novice home builders, in an effort to make it easier for themselves to pour and level concrete, use excess amounts of water, getting semi-liquid, easy spreading solution . By doing this, they lay a "time bomb" - at the output, the screed will not have the required qualities.

Firstly, an excessively liquid solution will definitely give a strong shrinkage during hardening. flat surface, in accordance with the set level, in this case it is not necessary to expect. And secondly, the violation of the cement-water balance will necessarily reduce the strength properties of the hardened concrete. The surface is loose, unbound, with increased dust formation.

There are, of course, specially the amount of water in the concrete solution, but they are usually followed by technologists of enterprises for the production reinforced concrete structures and large mortar units. In home construction, they often rely on own experience, intuition and common sense. In addition, it is very difficult to accurately calculate the amount of water due to the fact that it largely depends on the moisture content of the filler. Sand can be wet, heavy - and this is also water, which will be involved in the process of preparing the solution.

Ideally, the concrete solution should be dense, but plastic enough, so that when it is poured and leveled, no air voids remain in the thickness of the floor. You can roughly focus on the following ratio - a liter of water per five kilograms of a cement-sand dry mixture.

It is very difficult to mix the screed mortar by hand, using a shovel. It is better to use a concrete mixer for this or construction mixer high enough power. First, dry ingredients are mixed in the desired ratio (it is possible with a little moisture), and then water is added very carefully, in portions.

An important condition for the quality of the future concrete screed is the purity of the water. It is forbidden to use process water containing fats, oils, residues of petroleum products, etc. Also, dirty, oily containers should not be used to carry water to the place of concrete mixing.

2. A modern range of building materials on sale can significantly simplify the process of pouring the screed. For these purposes, ready-made dry building mixes can be used.

Compared to using the usual cement-sand mixture, this technology has a number of advantages:

• In terms of strength and other performance indicators, screeds made from ready-made mixtures are in no way inferior to ordinary concrete, and may even exceed it in a number of parameters.
• To prepare the solution does not need a powerful technique or heavy manual labor- a mixer or even a powerful electric drill (perforator) with an appropriate nozzle is enough.
• In principle, there are no problems with the dosage of the components - everything is already provided by the manufacturer, and the master can only clearly follow the instructions for preparing the solution.
• Many mortars prepared from such mixtures are significantly lighter, which reduces the load on the ceiling, reduces transportation costs and facilitates the lifting of materials to the floors.

• It is possible to select the desired composition under specific conditions operation. So, there are solutions for rough or leveling screeds, for the “warm floor” system and for rooms with high humidity. Special plasticizers or microfibers added to their composition not only increase the strength characteristics of the coating, but also reduce the time for complete curing of the screed, reducing the overall duration construction works.
• What is very important for beginners is that working with such compositions is simple and does not require particularly high skills. The main thing is to follow the recommendations on pouring technology, which are necessarily attached to any batch of material.

All this will be true only if a high-quality dry mix is ​​purchased. Alas, there are a lot of fakes or low-grade mixtures on the building materials market in this segment. It is best to choose compositions from reputable manufacturers, be sure to check the certificate so as not to run into counterfeit products. It is also important to check the shelf life of the material - it is limited, and the expired mixture can significantly lose its quality.

The only drawback of this approach to pouring the screed is that the price for it can turn out to be slightly higher than when making the solution yourself. Well, you have to pay for convenience and quality.

Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors

Screeds and self-leveling floors

Preparing the surface for pouring concrete screed

The surface for pouring the screed is prepared in different ways, based on the conditions:

• If the floor will be laid on the ground, for example, in a private house without a basement or basement, then the work is carried out in next sequence:

- The soil is selected to a depth of 500 mm.

A pillow of sand is poured, 100 mm thick, carefully rammed. A gravel layer is poured over it in the same way.

– A rough concrete pour is made with the addition of expanded clay to a height of 150 — 200 mm - for warming the floor surface.

- After the base has solidified, it must waterproofed- roofing material or dense plastic film, to prevent ground moisture from entering from below. The waterproofing material must be on the walls height, slightly greater than the height of the planned screed. If necessary, another layer of insulation can be poured from above, and then a reinforced finishing screed can be poured.

• In apartments, first of all, it is necessary to remove the old screed. This is done for several reasons:

- Firstly, the old screed does not guarantee integrity, as it can peel off, crack, and these deformations will be transferred to the newly poured layer.

- Secondly, do not forget about the maximum permissible loads on floor slabs. So, in serial high-rise buildings old building permissible load is about 400 kg per square meter - static and 150 kg - dynamic. And the weight of one square meter of concrete screed, 50 mm thick, approaches 100 kg. Therefore, all work related to the thickening of the screed will have to be coordinated with design organizations. And it is far from certain that such permission will be obtained.

- And thirdly, the height of the ceilings in the apartments is usually not so significant that you can afford to greatly raise the level of the floor.

The old screed is dismantled with a puncher, but very carefully to prevent destruction or damage to the floor slab. The remains of chipped concrete are removed, and then a thorough cleaning and dedusting of the surface is carried out.

• If a connected screed is planned, then it is necessary to carefully clean the existing recesses, cut cracks or crevices to a width of at least 5 mm so that the concrete solution can freely penetrate into them during pouring.
• If the screed is floating or on a separating layer, then all flaws must be repaired immediately. You can’t leave voids under the waterproofing layer - condensation can accumulate there, and these areas of high humidity are likely to become a “problem place”.

Defects are sealed with a repair compound, epoxy putty or ordinary concrete mortar. In case of large defects, mounting foam can sometimes be used.

The corners between the walls and the floor are especially carefully checked and repaired - water from the concrete solution when pouring the screed can penetrate deep into the ceiling or even leak to the neighbors below.

• Then, in any case, the surface of the overlap should be treated with a penetrating primer. Such a measure will additionally remove dust from the surface of the slab, and improve its adhesion to the poured concrete. In addition, the overlap will not actively absorb moisture from the solution. This is extremely important. Lack of water in the wet concrete layer adjacent to the base will result in incomplete maturation. cement stone, the screed will flake off or collapse under even not the most significant loads.

The soil is poured over the surface in strips and evenly distributed with a roller. AT hard-to-reach places, for example, in the corners, it is better to use a brush.

• An elastic damper tape is glued along the perimeter of the walls. It will become a compensator for the expansion of the concrete screed, which will prevent its deformation or cracking. In addition, under no circumstances should the screed come into contact with vertical structures, be it walls, partitions or columns.

• If the screed is on the separating layer, then at first the entire surface of the overlap is covered with a dense polyethylene film, at least 0.2 mm thick. The strips are overlapped, not less than 100 mm. Joints must be glued with waterproof construction tape. You need to try very carefully to lay the film in the corners so that strong jams and folds do not form - air “pockets” may remain there. The edges of the film on the walls should be 5 ÷ 10 mm higher than the planned screed - they will then be easy to cut off.

After the polyethylene is laid, the damper tape is glued - just as mentioned above.

Beacon system and reinforcement

In order to achieve the horizontality of the screed and its required height, it is necessary to create a system of beacons, along which the concrete solution will be leveled.

Zero Level Definition

It is very fortunate if the farm has or has the opportunity to take it from friends. In this case, the work will be much simpler - it will be much easier to beat off the horizontal stripes on the walls and control the level of the guides.

If this is not possible, then it is no worse to set beacons with the help of a water and ordinary building level.

The water level consists of two cylindrical transparent vessels with the same scale applied, connected by a long elastic thin hose. According to the physical law of communicating vessels, the liquid level in them is always at the same height from the horizon. Thus, by making one mark at a certain level, you can high precision transfer it to other surfaces within the length of the flexible hose.

Markup begins by determining the zero level of the future screed. To do this, first of all, you need to draw a base horizontal line. This is done as follows:

• The estimated highest corner of the room is visually determined. A mark is made on the wall in this corner at an arbitrary height. It is better, of course, to make it so that it is most convenient to work, for example, one and a half meters from the floor.

• With the help of a water level, this mark is transferred to all walls of the room. The distance between the risks should allow them to be connected with a line using the existing ruler (you can use a long building level or a clean rule).
• The drawn line should pass along the entire perimeter of the room and close at one point - this will indicate the correctness of the measurements.
• Measurements are made from the applied baseline to the floor surface. Measurement points are usually every 0, 5 m. be sure to ensure that the measurement is carried out strictly vertically. The obtained values ​​\u200b\u200bmust be written down (on a piece of paper or even on the wall with a pencil).

The point of measurement that will give the minimum height of this distance will correspond to the highest section of the base.

• From the value obtained at the highest point, the thickness of the future screed is subtracted (minimum 30 mm). For example, the minimum height is 1420 mm. Subtract the thickness of the screed (30 mm) and get 1390 mm. This is the distance from the plotted reference line to the zero level.
• Now it will be easy to draw the entire zero level line around the perimeter of the room - for this you need to measure the value obtained from the base down, mark the points and connect them with a straight line. To simplify the work, you can make a rail - a template and quickly transfer marks from the baseline. After connecting them, you get the main line of the zero level.
• It is rare in construction practice, but it still happens when in the center of the room the floor level is slightly higher than near the walls. This must be checked by pulling the cord at zero level between opposite walls and measuring the height from it to the floor. Such a check should be carried out in several places. In the case when it is revealed that there is a hill in the center, it will be necessary to shift the zero level upwards in order to ensure the minimum allowable screed thickness over the entire area of ​​​​the room.

Marking for the beacon system

It is advisable to make markings for beacons and guides immediately after repulsing the zero level, guided by the following principles:

• The orientation of the guides should correspond to the intended direction of the most convenient pouring of the screed. This is usually done along the room, from the far wall to the exit.
• It happens that due to the complexity of the configuration of the room, it will be necessary to change the direction of the fill in a certain area. This should also be immediately taken into account when marking the lines of beacons.
• The distance between the wall and the parallel guide closest to it is usually kept no more than 250 - 300 mm. If left large, a poorly leveled area or even a dip may form along the wall, which will require additional intervention later.

• The distances between adjacent guides are not particularly regulated. The main thing is that the rule for leveling, installed on them, protrudes on both sides by about 200 mm. The guides should not be spaced too much - quite large gaps may appear in the center between them after shrinkage of the hardening concrete.
• I distribute the guide lines along the width of the room, usually at the same distance from one another.

How beacons and guides are set at zero level

Previously, various available materials were used as guides for the beacon system, for example, wooden blocks or unnecessary pipes. Today, metal profiles are mainly used for these purposes.

• So, galvanized U-shaped profiles from drywall systems show themselves very well. They are resistant to deflection and create a reliable "rail" for rule work.
• Plaster profiles are very popular, although they are not without some drawbacks. They have a stiffener, however, in long sections, when working with a rule, they can still bend. Therefore, when using them, the number of support points must be increased.
• In some cases, you can do without the use of profiles.

There are many ways to install a beacon, and it is impossible to consider everything. Let's stop only on some of them.

• One of the most accurate and simple - using self-tapping screws.

- At the far end of the room at a distance of 250 - 300 mm from the corner between opposite walls, a strong cord (for example, a fishing line or a thick nylon thread) is pulled strictly at zero level. It is important to pull it to the maximum so that there is no sagging in the center.

- At the intersection of the line of the stretched cord with the line closest to the wall, guiding to semi drilled a hole where a plastic dowel is hammered and a self-tapping screw is screwed in. Using a screwdriver, it is screwed in such a way that the upper edge of its cap exactly coincides with the zero level.

- A similar operation is repeated in the opposite, closest to the exit, side of the room.

- Two self-tapping screws that define the guide line are interconnected by a tightly stretched cord, so that it runs along the top of their caps.

- On this segment, mark and drill holes for dowels, distributing them evenly so that an interval of 350 ÷ 400 mm is maintained between them.

- Self-tapping screws are screwed into the dowels until their caps match the stretched cord. Be sure to check with the help of the building level - if necessary, you can make the necessary adjustments.

- In the same way, a line of self-tapping screws is made on the opposite guide, and then on the intermediate ones. In this case, the check should be carried out in all directions - longitudinal, transverse and diagonally.

- After the same zero level has been reached along all lines, the stretched cords are removed. Prepare a thick concrete solution. It is laid out in small slides along the line of screwed screws. Then a U-shaped profile is put on top and pressed into the solution. The transverse flange of the profile should rest against the head of the screw. It is important that the profile “sat down” evenly on both sides, without distortions.

- After the solution sets and securely fixes the profiles in the installed position, you can proceed to pouring the screed.

With plaster profiles, it turns out to be somewhat more difficult - it is more difficult to fix them on the heads of self-tapping screws. For these purposes, special fasteners can be used - " eared"Which are put on self-tapping screws, and the side shelves of the profile are crimped with their petals.

Video: setting beacons with self-tapping screws and fasteners - " eared»

Another subtlety - plaster profiles also have their own height, and this must also be taken into account when setting self-tapping screws to the zero level.

In addition, the fixation solution will require much more - the flesh to the point that I resort to laying out even a solid shaft, into which the profile is embedded with an emphasis on the caps of the self-tapping screws.

• Some craftsmen are used to doing without metal profiles at all.

— The exposed self-tapping beacons are tied with a thin wire, thereby creating a kind of reinforcing cage. Then, a solution is laid out along the entire line in a slightly excess amount, so that the resulting shaft is slightly above the zero level.

- When the solution begins to set, form a guide plane. Using the rule, the upper edge of this shaft is compared and smoothed to the heads of the screws.

- After solidification, excellent guides will be obtained, along which it is quite possible to work with the rule, and then they will enter the structure of the flooded screed.

• If the screed is carried out on the wall, then the method of self-tapping screws becomes inapplicable - it is impossible to break the tightness of the film, and in addition, there should not be a rigid adhesion of the new screed to the base. In this case, you will have to tinker more, laying out the slides of the solution and accurately inserting the guides at the zero level along the stretched cords.

To speed up the readiness of the beacon system, tile glue is often used instead of the usual mortar - its curing time is much shorter. But gypsum compositions are unacceptable. Firstly, they practically do not shrink, unlike cement ones. Secondly, at gypsum compositions completely different indicators of water absorption, adhesion, strength, plasticity, etc. It can be stated with absolute certainty that there will be tons of cracks in the locations of the beacons on the screed.

The nuances of reinforcing the screed

Of course, this measure is useful, especially with thick screeds. Used for this, most often, a metal mesh made of galvanized steel wire with cells from 50 to 100 mm - it can be purchased ready-made in stores. Only here, when placing it, many people make a serious mistake.

If you look at numerous photographs on the Internet, you can see a grid laid directly on a floor slab or on a waterproofing layer. There are many doubts about the usefulness of such reinforcement. Ideally, for the reinforcing belt to play its role, it should be placed in the thickness of the poured mortar, approximately in the middle of the height of the screed.

To do this, you can purchase special polymer coasters. However, it will not be difficult to make wire supports or even lift the mesh onto linings from pieces of broken tiles or fragments of an old concrete screed. Wooden linings should never be used.

Obviously, it is necessary to carry out the installation of a reinforcing lattice before setting up the guides. Most often, the installation of the system of beacons and fittings is carried out in parallel, and the grid can also be fixed on those hills of cement into which metal profiles are embedded.

Filling the screed

Oddly enough, but the process of pouring the screed itself looks like the most uncomplicated in the series of all technological operations. If all the preparatory work is done correctly, then this stage will not present any difficulty.

• For normal pouring and hardening of the screed, the optimum temperature is from 15 to 25 degrees. It is allowed to carry out work with more than low temperatures(but not lower than +5), but the concrete maturation period will increase significantly. In too hot weather, it is also better to refrain from pouring - = upper layer can quickly dry out and crack. Does not like screed and drafts, although fully accessible fresh air cannot be covered.
• It is best, of course, to work together - one is preparing the concrete solution, and the second is directly pouring and leveling the screed. The technology of mixing the solution has already been described above.
• Work is carried out from the far corner of the room, gradually moving towards the exit. It is necessary to try to complete the filling within one working day - so the screed will be as uniform and durable as possible. If for some reason this is not possible, then the floor surface is pre-divided into sections (they are called fill cards) with the installation of jumpers between them.
• lays out in excess between the guides, so that its layer is 15 - 20 mm above the zero level. The initial distribution is carried out with a trowel or shovel. It is essential to ensure that there is no empty seats- this often happens under guides, under bars reinforcement or at the corners. It is necessary to achieve maximum compaction of the concrete solution, the release of air bubbles from it. To do this, you can carry out " bayonet" - the solution is pierced with a shovel or trowel before leveling.
• Next, on on the governing set rule. With translational and transverse zigzag movements, the solution is leveled to the level of the guides, so that a flat, smooth surface is obtained.

If the sand has not been sifted and large fragments (pebbles or shells) remain in it, then certain difficulties may arise - these inclusions can leave furrows and you will have to suffer a lot, removing them and smoothing out irregularities in order to bring the surface to an ideal state.

Concrete mortar is added as needed, so that the work goes on continuously. Excess mortar at the end of the filling of the room is carefully removed.

Video: a good example of pouring a screed over beacons

After the filling is completed, it is necessary provide for measures, excluding accidental entry into the premises of people or pets during the first 5 to 7 days. In order for the ripening process to proceed effectively, the surface must be moistened daily (starting from the second day) with water, keeping it moist. In case of strong heat, it makes sense to cover it with a film after the initial setting in order to avoid drying out.

If an ordinary sand-cement mortar was used, then the readiness of the screed with the operational one can be said no earlier than after 3 weeks. When using dry building mixes, the terms may be different - they must be indicated in the attached instructions.

After the screed is ready, it is checked for evenness and surface quality. To do this, set the rule on the embedded guides and measure the resulting gap in the center. There is no escape from concrete shrinkage, and if the gap does not exceed 1 - 2 mm, then this will be within the normal range.

Often, a thin-layer composition is poured over the screed to make the surface perfectly smooth. However, this is a topic for separate consideration.

From the author: I greet you, dear reader! Sooner or later, we all face repairs in the hope of making our home the most comfortable and beautiful, because the house is our fortress. This is the place where we can be alone with ourselves, and where we feel protected. As soon as we start thinking about repairs, we begin to look at the prices of materials and services, and literally immediately we understand that we can’t save much on the material, but we can refuse the services of builders by doing repairs ourselves. One of the upcoming operations is laying the floors, and it is vital for you to know the construction of the floor by concrete slab, otherwise problems with the repair can not be avoided.

Types of floors and their designs

To begin with, let's figure out which ones are generally, since not all of them are suitable for installation in an apartment or house. Some of them may not meet your needs or hurt your budget. So, the following types of floor technologies are distinguished:

• on concrete slabs;
• on the ground;
• wooden on concrete slabs;
• concrete with a wooden base;
• concrete for industrial buildings;
• from fiber-reinforced concrete;
• warm.

Now you will understand which one is needed for what, how it is made, and what are its advantages and disadvantages.

Floors on concrete floors

This type of flooring is the most common, since most city dwellers live in apartments, and all floors apartment buildings are made exclusively with the use of reinforced concrete slabs. Any floor can be made on them, whether it is wooden or warm, floating or with inexpensive linoleum.

Floor slabs are a universal base - they are strong, able to withstand enormous loads and be used for many years in the most severe conditions, without losing their strength properties. But no matter what coating we lay, it is worth remembering the necessary sequence of actions in laying the various layers. In any case, the manufacture wooden floors on concrete floors:

1. Substrate preparation, cleaning or screed.
2. Marking the lag installation and applying special glue to the surface.
3. Laying the log strictly horizontally, using a hydraulic level or a conventional level.
4. Laying a waterproofing layer over the log.
5. Laying insulation between the lags.
6. Placement of the draft layer, whether it be a board, plywood or chipboard.
7. Vapor barrier layer.
8. Substrate.
9. Finishing coating, laminate or parquet, or boards.

The manufacture of a concrete base takes much less time than a wooden one, but its properties are completely different. Such floors have extremely high strength in comparison with any other type of floor, are not subject to destruction and aging. This floor is static, its thermal expansions are so slow and insignificant that any finished coating on it does not experience any deformation loads and can serve for a very long time. At proper arrangement serves as an excellent barrier to heat loss, and in case of an emergency, such as a flood, will not allow water to penetrate to the neighbors.

Of the minuses, the following can be distinguished. Low heat capacity, i.e., poor ability to retain heat in itself - therefore, such a floor without finish coating will almost always be cold, unless it is made using underfloor heating technology. He is very heavy. Puts a heavy burden on bearing structures and foundation, so if it's private house, and even with floating soil, you should refrain from such a floor.

Now let's look at the sequence of work. It consists of the following steps:

1. Surface preparation.
2. Primer with deep penetration compounds.
3. Laying rolled waterproofing or applying liquid formulations with the same properties.
4. Installation of a reinforcing cage, or the use of basalt fiber. In the case of reinforcement with cell layers, we bind or weld them and lay them on pieces of brick so as to move them away from the surface (so that when pouring the screed, the mesh is in the middle).
5. Installation of beacons. They lay down on a solid strip of cement mortar with a small addition of alabaster - this “slide” is laid on top of the reinforcing cage, but in such a way that it does not catch on.
6. Preparation of a solution using plasticizers or several caps of shampoo.
7. Pouring the solution, pulling the screed.
8. Laying vapor barrier, underlayment and finishing coat.

Floors on the ground

This coating is typical for newly erected buildings. The floor on the ground must meet many criteria - after all, it is the main barrier from the earth, which constantly strives to destroy it, saturate it with moisture and take away heat.

To prevent the harmful effects of these factors, multi-layer laying technology is used. Ground work is carried out as follows and in this order:

1. If we have soft ground at the base, cut off the top layer, about 20–30 cm.
2. The resulting layer of earth is rammed with a special metal chock or press.
3. We lay a pillow of sand mixed with crushed stone on the rammed earth. The layer should be about 10-15 cm.
4. We lay the damper tape made of foamed polyurethane.
5. Next, fill in the draft layer of the screed, it is possible without reinforcement and beacons. Fill with a layer of about 5-15 cm.
6. We lay a layer of polyethylene or roofing material for waterproofing.
7. Then lay down a layer insulation material. It is best to use foam or polystyrene foam.
8. We lay the reinforcing mesh on islands of brick to create a gap and position the reinforcement in the middle of the screed layer.
9. Installing beacons.
10. Install damper tape.
11. We fill in the finishing layer of the screed.
12. We lay the vapor barrier, the substrate and any finishing coating.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in making a floor with your own hands, and you are able to do it all yourself in a short period of time. All that will stop you is the drying time of the layers.

Source: http://mrpol.su

First, the ground on which the pillow will be laid must be dry. If it is wet, wait until dry or dry it using specialized diesel infrared guns which will effectively cope with this task.

The rough layer of the screed should dry completely - on average, it takes 20-25 days, and in climates with high humidity - 28-30 days. The final layer of the screed should be thinner, no more than 5 cm. It also dries from 20–25 days.

In order for this layer to turn out to be of high quality, it must be covered with a film immediately after pouring. For uniform drying, it is abundantly moistened twice in 24 hours, and then covered with plastic wrap for 3-4 days to evenly distribute moisture. Then the film is removed and left for 20–25 days to dry completely.

This method is effectively used to make the floor in a private house, since usually only there is it necessary to pour the screed onto the ground. This concludes the discussion of making a screed on the ground with our own hands, and now let's move on to the next type.

Floors with basalt fiber

A novelty in the building materials market. Appeared not so long ago, about seven years ago, but did not receive much distribution. Basalt fiber is an extremely strong fiber with an amazing property to resist tearing. It is a fiber, most often white in color, only 5-7 cm in length, which are supplied in bags.

The manufacturing technology of concrete screed with basalt fiber is as follows. Exactly the same operations are performed as when pouring a conventional screed, but with one cardinal difference. We do not put reinforcing cages and rods into the base, but instead add basalt fibers directly into the solution, in the proportion indicated on the package, and mix. After hardening, the fibers bind the entire canvas with thousands of threads, which give the structure incredible strength and flexibility.

This method is rarely used in home construction, but almost all industrial facilities are built in this way. In cases where support beams or stiffeners are being erected, the methods are combined, that is, both reinforcement and basalt are used to obtain heavy-duty structures.

Floors with wooden base

To understand what manufacturing is concrete floors on the wooden base watch this video very carefully. Or you will definitely achieve the destruction of the entire structure. No, we don't scare you, we just try to warn you.

The fact is that wood and metal are materials with absolutely different nature, structure and properties. The tree is never static, it is always moving. Its dynamics is determined by humidity, temperature, degree of drying. It is forbidden to pour the screed on the tree at all if the tree is fresh - only after a 3-year period!

Under the influence of the same temperature, these materials expand in different ways, so they need to be combined so that they are completely independent of each other. For this, an ordinary plastic film is used - concrete does not stick to it at all and seems to slide while the tree moves.

The whole process should be performed in the following sequence:

1. We are filming boardwalk and we revise all the logs in order to remove the damaged and rotten ones, otherwise the wooden floor may not withstand the load. A concrete slab with a thickness of 5 cm and an area of ​​1 m 2 weighs about 300 kg.
2. We restore the flooring and treat the wood with an antiseptic and a primer.
3. We lay down the plastic film.
4. We lay reinforcement or use fiber-reinforced concrete.
5. Install damper tape.
6. Place beacons.
7. We fill the screed.

As a result, we get two coatings that exist absolutely separately from each other. This design is rarely used in practice, but sometimes it is essential. No matter how complex it is, it has all the properties of a full-fledged concrete base and thermal characteristics. wooden floor.

Floors in industrial buildings

If there is a need to produce specific floors with increased strength and improved performance, then you need to learn about the manufacture of floors in an industrial building.

Such a coating is poured in the same way as all screeds. We use waterproofing, damper tape, reinforcement, basalt fiber. But there are several critical differences. AT industrial buildings, depending on the purpose, either just a screed or a screed with iron is made. Depending on the expected load, the layer thickness increases from 5 cm, as in civil buildings, to 20 cm for industrial facilities.

Reinforcement is placed in without fail, and in two stages. The first is the bottom reinforcement, the second is the top. The floor is poured in such a way that the reinforcing cage is 5 cm from the bottom and 5 cm from the top of the screed, because the coating can work not only in tension under heavy weight, but also in compression, and each of the reinforcement belt must extinguish these efforts.

And most importantly, any industrial screed should be made only with the help of vibration machines. These are special installations that cause the solution layer to compact under the action of vibration and fill all the voids more thoroughly. In this way, excellent coating qualities can be achieved.

Well, dear reader, here you have learned everything you could about what flooring devices are and how to make them. There are, of course, specific schemes - for example, manufacturing in a bathhouse, but they differ only in the presence of drains and drainage pits, and are made according to exactly the same principles as everyone else. Now, with this information, you can easily equip the floor for any purpose. Good luck and see you soon!

AT modern construction(especially suburban) ecological houses have become very popular, and in particular, houses made of wood. Accordingly, the device of the floor in wooden house also involves the use of wood, environmentally friendly materials.

Speaking about the advantages of floors made of wood, we can mention the absence of wet work, that is, work on the production of concrete rough and finish screed, and as a result, the installation process is facilitated and accelerated.

It is also possible to lay more insulation, and you can also use a vast number of its varieties, which was impossible in concrete floors. In addition, it is much lighter on such a floor, made on a wooden base.

When we take a closer look at the device of wooden floors, it becomes clear that it includes both natural wood materials, both boards, beams, and artificial - fiberboard (fibreboard), which are made from woodworking waste chips.

The technology for making such a floor can be varied, and depends mainly on what purpose and location it is. So, according to its location, they distinguish:

• wooden floor of the first floor (on the ground / on the slab from an unheated basement);
• wooden floor of interfloor ceilings;
• wooden floor of the balcony, loggia, bath.

A small role, but still plays the room in which the installation of a wooden floor. For example, if this is a room with high humidity, then additional layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier materials are applied accordingly, aimed at preventing the infiltration of water and capillary moisture deep into the wooden floor structure.

It is clear that in this case there is a certain approach to choosing a floor covering, for example, today it has become possible in bathrooms, but for this you need to purchase an appropriate special type of it.

In this case, you should pay attention to the basis on which the technology of installing a wooden floor will depend: when installing on the ground Special attention are given to waterproofing works, and also large-section load-bearing beams are used.

The advantage of wooden floors in this case lies in the variety of design solutions aimed at improving the thermal performance.

The device of the wooden floor of the first floor on the ground differs significantly from all others, since supporting elements for wooden beams in this case, it is not the surface of the base (soil) itself that serves, but the columns, the so-called “bedside tables”, which are laid on it with a certain step (depending on the thickness of the beams). This can be clearly observed in the arrangement of wooden floors in the diagram given in this article.

Determine the type of soil and if it belongs to the so-called "heaving" varieties, that is, it tends to expand, bulging, then in places where it is supposed to install "bedside tables", it (the soil) is selected to the freezing depth and covered with fine-grained filler - sand.

In the event that the soil is stable, then it is selected to a depth of about 15 cm and rammed, sand, crushed stone are poured in and rammed a second time, which actually ends its preparation for a further stage, which involves the installation of a wooden floor on the ground - laying brick / block columns.

Prepare the base depending on what "pedestals" will have a width. If they are narrow, they will be made of materials less than the width of a brick (25 cm), then it is recommended to pour a small foundation under them of 25 cm deep and 25 cm wide, respectively. After setting and drying, a waterproofing device is made and pedestals are laid.

If the pedestals will be made of a pair of bricks with dressing (each row in a perpendicular direction to the underlying one) or others, block materials solid thickness, then on a compacted layer sand cushion lay waterproofing and lay them (pedestals). At the same time, it is desirable to make the step between the prepared bases for the pedestals such that the distance between the beams laid on them is 50-100 cm, and along the lag of the pedestal every 100-200 cm.

Laying "pedestals" (columns) is made on the mortar, blocks / bricks are laid with the expectation that the beams laid on them will have a height up to the level of the upper edge of the foundation, or rather, a couple of centimeters lower. On the upper planes of the pedestals, a leveling pad is laid with a screed pad made of a cement-sand mixture.

After the pedestals have set and the leveling and at the same time smoothing layer has dried, a layer of waterproofing material is again produced, which will protect the overlying elements - beams, from possible moisture.

Installation of beams on pedestals carried out in one or two rows, depending on the design of the floor, since it can be single and double (see fig.). At this stage, the installation of a wooden floor along the logs involves the use of rigidly fixed elements of the beams along the supports, that is, dowels, anchors.

At the same time, the beams are fixed with anchors, dowels, corners to the foundation through the side faces of the beams, as for their attachment to the pedestal supports, this is not necessary, although it is practiced very often today. This is especially observed when installing a single floor, when the flooring is attached without a crate, directly to the beams.

Installation on a floor slab is carried out along logs of a smaller section with a vapor barrier film; in the case of an unheated basement, it is necessary to provide for thermal insulation material between the lags.

In this case, it is necessary to pay special attention to the calculation of heat losses, since an unheated basement under the first floor can significantly lower the temperature of the rooms above it.

The main advantage, which involves the installation of a wooden floor on concrete, is the much lower labor intensity and speed of its installation. But this is the case if you do not include in the calculation itself concrete base(floor slab).

Floor preparation is to clean the surface of the plate from dust, especially from sharp debris, like small pebbles, glass fragments. Also, all kinds of bumpy and sharp irregularities on its surface are smoothed out, sharp pits are filled with a self-leveling polymer-cement mixture.

If there is a screed on the base that crumbles and peels off, then it should be treated with an acrylic-based deep penetration primer. In this case, two layers of primer can be applied: the first is diluted by 10-20% with water (for deeper impregnation of the base), the second is undiluted. Of course, microorganisms, fungus, etc. are also removed.

Installation of a lag on a floor slab occurs on a litter of waterproofing material, in addition, the waterproofing of a wooden floor in this case (and preferably in all others) may involve treating the logs themselves with waterproofing mastic or special impregnation, which also has antiseptic properties that prevent rotting wood.

Here it is important to pay attention to the fact that the logs are tightly and without large gaps adjacent to the floor surface. The logs are fixed with dowels, the distance between the “tacks” is from 40 cm. The step between the logs is selected individually, depending on the dimensions and rigidity of the flooring material, and it can be 40-100 cm.

Laying a vapor barrier in this case it is necessary, since we are talking about the presence of a temperature difference between the heated first floor and the unheated basement. This difference can cause condensation to accumulate inside the floor structure.

To prevent this phenomenon, different kinds vapor barrier films made of polyethylene, polypropylene and having a foil coating. You can also use the traditional material - glassine. The material is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm, wrapped around the perimeter of the room to a height equal to the height of the clean floor with the plinth.

Wooden floors, which are laid on the floors of the second - H-th floor, have a less complex structure than in previous cases.

But at the same time, the floors separated by the ceiling must be heated - this mandatory condition for correct operation such gender.

The schemes according to which the wooden floor of the second floor and above is made, with the exception of the attic, are almost identical both in the case of overlapping - a concrete slab, and with beam ceiling. In both cases, there is no vapor barrier and, at individual discretion, insulation may be included or absent (that is, its absence is not critical).

The device of a wooden interfloor floor on a concrete floor , which is performed between floors, assumes the presence of a log, which are set in increments of 40 cm, with a distance from the wall of 5 cm.

They can be laid on a concrete surface and adjusted in level using special fasteners. By the way, the floor on the ceiling from the heated basement is performed in the same way.

These include U-shaped brackets-holders, which are fixed with self-tapping screws to the sides of the log. There are also special threaded studs, which are hammered into the concrete layer of the slab on one side (or a pillow is screwed on, placed on the bases), and a nut with a union washer is screwed onto the second side, onto which a log is placed.

Also, in order to raise the level of the floor much higher than the existing one, hardwood bars are placed under the logs in the places where they should be attached. Bricks and blocks are also used as such linings - the main thing is that the material is durable. However, this is already outdated.

is produced quite often, since wooden beams are used very often. There are several floor designs: on beams and on logs.

If the distance between the beams exceeds 60 cm, then the floor arrangement along the wooden beams is a crate along them from a log in increments of 40-60 cm, respectively. Otherwise, you can arrange the flooring directly on the beams, but they must be even with the step.

In addition to the difference with regards to the lathing of the lag, there is one more thing, that is, the floor can be single and double. When installing a double floor, either special beams with “shelves” are used, on which a rough flooring is laid, or they are made on a beam installed in the design position. To do this, bars are placed on its side faces, on which the rough coating is laid.

As for the insulation, it is laid between the black and finishing flooring, between the beams. Most often, mineral wool boards or similar rolled materials are taken as the material. Materials are stacked tightly, slabs - in a checkerboard pattern, if in two layers, then the second should not coincide with the seams of the first.

Floors that are arranged in unheated premises, such as attics (not residential), loggias and glazed balconies, have an almost identical floor arrangement according to hardwood floors and concrete floors, but differ in the presence of special, enhanced measures for thermal insulation and vapor barrier.

Floors with structures consisting of wooden elements, which suit in rooms with high humidity, like bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens, as well as baths, saunas - are performed as interfloor or ground floor floors (depending on the floor on which the room is located), but with an emphasis on improving waterproofing properties.

Also, very often in all the above rooms (and glazed balconies) a wooden insulated floor, electrical and water systems "warm floor" are used, which are usually laid on a layer of heat-reflective roll material, which in turn spreads on heat-insulating material.

begins with the preparation of the surface for sheet vapor barrier materials, that is, with cleaning, etching out microorganisms and smoothing sharp stones and other defects protruding from the plane concrete surface. Next, the flooring of these materials is made with an overlap of 10-15 cm, releases to the height of the clean floor + 10-15 cm.

Next, the lag is installed, indents from the walls of 5 cm are observed without fail. Since most often it is required to significantly increase the level of the floor in the case of a balcony, trimming bars are used, which are placed under the logs. At the same time, the use of metal fasteners is not recommended, they can create “cold bridges”, transferring it from the stove.

In this case, warm wooden floors are often used, the device of which also contains electric or water heating systems. In this case, the insulation is laid a little lower than the flush lag, based on the thickness of the insulation system. The system is laid on this insulation, possibly on heat reflective film, and cuts are arranged in the logs, in which the system is carried out to other parts of the floor. At the same time, the places where the log was cut should be especially strengthened.

depends on the finish. Ceramic tiles can be laid on them, in such cases the flooring is treated with special impregnation or mastic from water absorption and a mesh is laid, along which a cement-sand screed is made.

The floor-wall junctions are pasted over with a sealing tape on the mastic. In the case of the "warm floor" system, which works on a water basis, it is "buried", that is, it is laid and filled with a screed. If we are talking about thin-layer, electric heating, then it is laid on an already dried screed and tiles are laid on top.

There is also another option for installing a wooden floor in the bathroom, when the cheat flooring is supposed to be made from a special waterproof laminate or boards. Then the screed is not performed, and the vapor barrier flooring is arranged along the logs with the laid heaters. Draft flooring from boards or shields is treated with special impregnations that increase moisture resistance.

The construction of a private house is a complex multi-stage process that takes a large number of time. And if you are not a professional, then it is unlikely that you will be able to do it yourself. After all, one cannot do without special knowledge. But some steps can still be done by hand. For example, flooring. We won't say it's easy, but it's possible. So let's look at how to make a floor with your own hands in a private house.

There are three designs of the floor base, on which the finishing material will be laid:

• On a concrete floor slab.
• On the floor beams.
• Ground concrete floor.

Floor on slab

In fact, a reinforced concrete multi-hollow slab is already a finished floor. It is laid on the basement of the foundation or on the walls of the building, which are poured with a reinforcing frame. It turns out a small but solid foundation right on the walls.

Such a plate, manufactured at the factory, goes through several stages of control, so its strength characteristics meet all the necessary standards. But the evenness of the surface leaves much to be desired. But this does not matter, because such a concrete floor is subjected to additional processing, insulation and finishing. So the evenness of the surface will eventually have maximum parameters.

According to the construction technology, the installation of a floor slab is the fastest process. This will require crane, which in a few minutes will install this reinforced concrete product in any place of the building. But the device does not end there.

What else needs to be done with the floor slab?

First, it is necessary to seal the joints between the plates. To do this, they are poured with concrete mortar. To prevent the joint from leaking, a formwork is installed on its lower side. It could be regular board, which is supported from below by a rack or support. The same board can be pulled with a wire to the bottom plane of the slab, fixed to a pipe or other metal profile located on top of the slab across the joint.

Secondly, a rolled waterproofing material is laid. Please note that multi-lane installation must meet certain requirements:

• All strips are overlapped with edges offset up to 15 centimeters.
• To completely seal the layer, the edges of the material are sealed with self-adhesive tape, for example, construction tape.
• The waterproofing layer is applied to the walls up to the level of laying the finishing floor covering.

Thirdly, if you want the floor to meet the requirements of comfortable living, then on the first floor of the building it must be insulated. True, today many experts are of the opinion that the floor on any floor should be insulated. Therefore, we lay heat-insulating material.

The modern market offers huge selection heaters, so finding something you need specifically for your floor will not be difficult. There are traditional inexpensive materials on the market, as well as novelties with excellent qualities and properties. Most often, expanded clay is poured onto the floor or slabs of extruded polystyrene foam are laid. Manufacturers mineral wool began to produce dense products in mats, which are not inferior in characteristics to either expanded clay or foam plastic.

Fourthly, another layer of waterproofing is installed. Use the same material as in the first layer, and using the same technology.

Fifthly, a screed is poured or installed. A little more about this.

Features of creating a screed

How to make a floor screed

There are three types of ties:

1. Usual wet on the basis of cement-sand mortar.
2. Semi-dry from ready construction mixes.
3. Dry based on durable tile materials - plywood, GVL, chipboard.

All options are used equally often, and the choice should be based on the time you need to meet. If it presses best option- This is a dry screed. If there is enough time, then you can take any other variety.

Attention! To increase the strength of a wet or semi-dry screed, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing frame made of metal fittings or wire. It is important here that the frame is in the body of the screed, and not on its border.

The complexity of laying the screed layer lies in the fact that it must be accurately set and built in one horizontal plane. If you do not know some of the nuances, then the error can be very large. Therefore, we advise you to read the articles on our website, which provide step-by-step instructions for pouring or installing a screed on the floor.

This is how the floor construction scheme looks like on a concrete floor slab. Many private developers who have tried different ways of arranging the floor say that this option is the easiest and most convenient. And it does not matter which screed will be used to level the surface of the plate.

Floor on floor beams

This option is not uncommon at construction sites in private housing construction. But not everyone can build such a structure. First of all, because the floor on the floor beams can be made only by installing additional elements in the form of a lag. Lay out differently sexual base does not seem possible. And most importantly, these logs will have to be exposed in order to achieve a flat surface.

Consider the scheme of such work. Usually used as floor beams wooden beams large section. You can use metal profiles and concrete beams, but both of these options are expensive, and it is much more difficult to attach the lag structure to metal and concrete. Therefore, wooden beams are the best option. They are laid on the basement of the foundation with a mandatory lining of waterproofing material - a piece of roofing material or roofing felts. It is not necessary to align wooden beams in a plane, and this is inconvenient, because the weight of each element is quite large. Leveling the floor is carried out with lags.

There are logs on the beams. It can be all the same wooden beams of small section or boards laid on the end. The lag is fastened to the beams either with self-tapping screws or with special metal corners. The second option is used more often because it is more reliable. But that's not all. Metal mounting brackets allow you to raise or lower the joists, thereby simplifying the process of leveling the subfloor.

How to level the floor along the lags

Floor device on logs

The alignment scheme is quite simple. First, in the same plane and exactly horizontally, two logs are set on opposite sides near the walls. We remind you that this can be done using fasteners metal corners. But under the logs you still have to install linings - wooden, plastic or metal plates.

The evenness of each log must be checked by the building level. And in order to determine the location of two lags in the same plane, a rule or a long rail is installed on them, and it is this that is checked for horizontality. Now 3–4 rows of threads are stretched between the lags so that they do not sag, and intermediate structural elements are placed along them.

Attention! The height of the lag is chosen according to the zero level, which is previously applied to the walls in the form of a contour around the perimeter of the room.

flooring

Usually on the logs equip the floor of the boards. This is a traditional option that has several advantages:

• The wooden floor is easily insulated. To do this, longitudinal slats are nailed along the lower edges of the log, along which a draft floor is installed. Then a vapor barrier is laid, and on top of it - a heater, which is closed with a waterproofing roll material, for example, with a plastic film.
• In such a design, communication systems and networks can be laid.
• It is possible to mount the heating system "warm floor".

The floor from the boards is a beautiful and warm coating that does not have to be decorated by others. finishing material. You can simply paint it or apply a colorless varnish, which will only emphasize the beauty of the natural component of the flooring.

Other options for the floor on the beams

Plank floors of the first floor can be laid on posts

Sometimes beams are not used as a support for logs. The lag structure itself is a support for the sexual base. If the house is small, then the logs are installed with their ends directly on the foundation, and this is enough to withstand heavy loads. If the room has a decent size, then under the logs you will have to install additional intermediate supports in the form of columns. They can be built from brick, stone, concrete or finished products - reinforced concrete posts, metal pipes and other metal profiles. Choose the simplest and cheapest option, for example, brick posts.

Pay attention to a few very important points:

1. The support posts should be located at such a distance from each other that the loads on the logs are distributed evenly - 40–50 centimeters is enough. Although everything will depend on the section of the log used. The larger it is, the less often you can install supports. So the distance between them can reach up to 80 centimeters.
2. The upper planes of the posts must be horizontal and in the same plane.
3. A small foundation must be poured under each support.
4. On the upper plane waterproofing material is laid on each pillar.

Ground floor

Floor installation in a private house

This option for constructing a floor in a private house can be considered a subspecies of installation on a floor slab, because the result will be a concrete base. But the work itself is significantly different from the first version. They are more labor-intensive, they use a large number of different building materials, in addition, the construction of the sexual base itself is a multilayer cake.

The work is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. First, soft soil is removed to a depth of half a meter. The bottom of the pit must be rammed, and a pillow of sand and gravel is poured on it. These two materials can be replaced with gravel. Please note that each layer of backfill must be rammed, and sand can be watered.
2. Waterproofing material is laid. The technology is the same as in other processes.
3. Expanded clay or perlite is poured as a heater.
4. A reinforcing frame made of welded metal mesh is installed. It is important that the frame is in the body of the screed, so raise it above the level of the laid materials.
5. A concrete solution is poured, which will subsequently be the basis of the floor. Filling the solution must be given special attention, because a flat and durable floor is the key to the quality of the entire base. On such a floor, it will be possible to immediately lay the finish, or you can install a lag structure. By the way, the warm floor is also perfectly mounted on it.

Conclusion on the topic

So, we figured out how to make a floor. In our case, options for constructing the base without finishing processes were considered. After all, it is on these works that private developers have the most questions. Because, firstly, it is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. And, secondly, it is much easier to finish the floor with any floor covering. So choose the construction option, take into account our recommendations and get to work.

Ruslan Vasiliev

A high-quality floor arrangement on floor slabs implies a comfortable living for people in the room.

Scheme of the device wood-chip floor.

Floor base

Classification of floors is made by types of coatings:

• boardwalks;
• parquet;
• linoleum;
• slab.

And by type of structure:

• layered;
• single layer;
• separate hollow;
• separate voidless.

Required tool:

Scheme of overlapping over a ventilated underground.

• grinder;
• plane;
• a hammer;
• trowel;
• cord;
• rule;
• saw;
• fasteners;
• screwdriver;
• roulette.

Layered floor device

Mainly used in . They are made from several layers above colder rooms (basements, garages). A soundproofing layer is laid on top, and a hard floor covering is laid on it - piece parquet or parquet boards. For sound insulation, fiberboard grades 4, 12, 20 are used.

Single layer construction

Such a floor is made directly on the floor slabs. If irregularities are found, a leveling layer must be made. The material for the construction of a single-layer floor can be bio-resistant linoleum, which is not subject to decay processes. In rooms with high humidity (toilet, bath), a single-layer floor can be made of ceramic tiles or rubber-based linoleum.

Installation of a separate hollow core

Diagram of a soundproof floor.

First, a soundproof layer is laid on the floor slabs, then the logs are strengthened, and the clean floor material is laid on them: parquet boards, tongue-and-groove boards or wooden shields. If a solid flooring is made of unplaned boards in the room, then fiberboard boards are laid on top, the thickness of which must be at least 20 mm. Logs for the construction of a separate hollow floor on floor slabs must be planed and treated with an antiseptic. The dimensions of the bars (lag) are 80 * 40 mm. Depending on the thickness of the flooring, the distance between the lags is determined. The thinner the material, the more often the bars are laid.

The device of a separate voidless floor

Scheme self-laying floor board.

It is built on the basis of a monolithic screed made on floor slabs. The screed is made from a mixture of concrete and porous aggregate class B12.5 with a density grade D1200, the thickness of the screed should be no more than 40 mm. It cannot be leveled with cement mortar, the irregularities should simply be sanded. Between the monolithic screed and the walls of the room along the perimeter, a gap of 20-30 mm is made, which is filled soundproofing material and subsequently closed with a plinth.

The external coating of such a floor can be linoleum, PVC tiles, parquet, laminate parquet, fiberboard or other materials. A layer of waterproofing material is placed on top of the screed. It is overlapped or the joints are coated with bituminous mortar. Then they put a layer of sound insulation from mineral wool grade 125-150 up to 60 mm thick, fiberboard up to 50 mm thick, sand or expanded clay.

Parquet flooring

Floor plan.

beautiful appearance, low thermal insulation and soundproofing make parquet (parquet boards, parquet boards, piece parquet) a popular material in the construction of floors on ceilings. The device of such a floor is possible on a solid plank base, fiberboard slabs, cement-sand screeds. The floors look good block parquet made with a Christmas tree pattern with or without friezes.

First you need to mark the rows of the coating so that there is less waste. A layer of glassine is laid on the prepared base, and a beacon "Christmas tree" is laid on it. Focusing on it, a floor covering is made with careful connection and fastening of each parquet plank with forty nails, two driven into the side groove and one into the end groove. With a doboynik deepen the caps into the material.

The device of floors from a piece parquet on couplers is made on a hot or cold solution of bitumen in "christmas tree" without friezes. When laying parquet, if necessary, level it with a special parquet-planing machine or a manual planer; after the guard, skirting boards are installed, the floor is scraped and polished. The floor is slightly moistened before scraping. The laid parquet is rubbed with mastic or varnish.

Linoleum floors

Scheme of insulation of the floor of the first floor.

Linoleum is a material used for flooring. It has such qualities as strength, durability, resistance to chemicals, elasticity; it is easy to clean and wash. For all these qualities, the material is very popular with developers. The disadvantages include susceptibility to deformation - expansion, shrinkage, warping and swelling. To prevent their appearance, linoleum is preliminarily kept in a rolled state for several days to straighten and take the shape of the floor.

The quality of the base for the flooring significantly affects the quality of the linoleum floor. Possessing elasticity, linoleum is able to perceive even the slightest irregularities. Therefore, the ground must be level, clean, dry and solid. The horizontalness of the base must be checked with a special rail. The bases for linoleum can be screeds made of cement-sand mortar, fiberboard boards, chipboard boards, cinder-block, expanded clay concrete and plank floors.

To install a new screed on the floor slabs, a 3: 1 sand-cement mortar is made, which is laid on a hard and durable preparation with a layer of up to 3 cm and leveled with a rule or a trowel along pre-installed guide rails. The surface of the previously made screeds must be clean and even. If necessary, the screed can be leveled by laying a new layer of cement-sand mixture with a ratio of 1: 2. Permissible humidity bases - no more than 10%.

The most time-consuming process is considered to be the process of preparing the bases for sticking linoleum on plank floors made on floor slabs.

Scheme of soundproofing floors.

They must be tough enough. The base boards must not sag. Before sticking linoleum, the base of the floor must be well processed: the lumber must be dry, planed, treated with an antiseptic or drying oil. All cracks must be puttied, cleaned and primed.

When constructing a base made of fiberboard or chipboard, it is also necessary to ensure the rigidity of the base under the slabs with mandatory grouting between them. The slabs are screwed to the wooden base of the floor with screws, their caps are well recessed in the material, and the slabs are glued to the concrete or cement-sand screed with hot bitumen. The surface of the fixed plates is leveled by cutting off the bumps, sealing the seams with mastic, primer and puttying with oil putty. Then linoleum is laid.

Floors made of ceramic tiles

For flooring on floor slabs made of ceramic tiles first, a base is made - a monolithic cement screed with the addition of sand (approximate composition 3: 1; 4: 1), the device of which is carried out along the waterproofing layer. When installing a floor on a wooden base, it is necessary to stick hot glue on the flooring. bituminous mastic waterproofing, then put reinforced mesh and put a solution on it. For the device of a coupler it is necessary to use beacons wooden slats installed in level along the walls of the room. Put the prepared solution between the slats. The horizontality of the screed is checked by the rule, the ends of which must rest on the beacon rails. After the solution has hardened, the slats are removed. The remaining grooves are filled with mortar.

Scheme of overlapping and floor insulation.

Before laying the tiles, they must be sorted by size and color. Make a breakdown of the floor according to the selected pattern of the future coating, after which you should check the squareness of the room with a cord, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner, and then determine the width of the frieze and lay two mutually perpendicular rows according to the pattern dry. The distance between the tiles when laying them should be no more than 2 mm.

If the tiles do not fit completely, they can be cut and laid in a row closer to the wall. According to the marks made on the clean floor, beacon tiles are laid. Then, along the cord and ruler, corner, intermediate and frieze beacons are installed. On the prepared solution, the seal is made and the first row of tiles is laid. After laying the frieze rows, they begin to lay the tiles of the main pattern of the floor covering. In order not to step on already laid tiles, their flooring starts from the far wall.

The mortar used must be of a plastic consistency, and it is advisable to lay it in an even strip on several rows of tiles at once. Having laid the tile on the mortar, it should be slightly precipitated with light blows of a trowel or hammer on the bar laid on top. Checking the horizontality of the laid tiles is carried out by the rule. The seams between them must be free from mortar. Two days after laying the tiles, they are filled with a creamy solution of cement in water, having previously cleaned the surface. The infusion is performed 2-3 times, as the solution shrinks. The remains of the solution are removed from the surface immediately after completion of work by wiping the tiles with moistened sawdust. Fill the laid tiles with moistened sawdust in a layer of 15-20 cm, and, periodically moistening them, achieve good hardening of the solution.