When constructing wooden and frame houses standing on a reinforced concrete "tape" or piles, it is important not to make a mistake in the design of the subfloor and competently insulate it. This directly affects not only the comfort of living, but also the durability of the building.
Variant of the construction of the floor of the first floor
The floor of the ground floor, which is not supported over the entire plane, must be strong enough to take on the entire load. In addition, it must be reliably insulated, otherwise in cold weather the house will freeze through the “sole”, and organize ventilation of the underground. Otherwise, due to stagnation of air wooden beams will be damp and rot. How can these difficult requirements be met?
Primarily, strip foundation houses are covered with cut-off waterproofing, on top of which a harness is laid, assembled from a bar with a cross section of 75 × 100 mm to 200 × 220 mm (depending on the expected loads).
When creating a floor on logs, it is necessary to use a fine-mesh metal mesh for rodent protection
The next step is installation beams. For these purposes, boards or timber with a thickness of 50 mm and a width of 150 mm are usually used. They are inserted into the grooves cut in the strapping beam. The step between the lags can be 40, 50 and 60 cm.
Next, proceed to black floor device, which serves as the basis of the "pie". Today, many builders prefer to use the technology of laying subfloor boards on cranial bars, which are fixed on both sides of each log, and boards, OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood are already laid on them.
Installing cranial bars is a relatively easy job, and the desire of builders to make their lives easier is understandable. But there is one very important point: the thickness of the thermal insulation layer of the floor directly depends on the height of the log. For middle lane Russia minimum layer insulation is 150 mm, recommended - 200 mm. The size of the cranial bars is 50 × 50 mm, which means that the thermal insulation automatically becomes thinner by 5 cm. You also need to subtract the thickness of the black floor boards - 25 mm. All this leads to the fact that you have to make a thinner layer of insulation or, in the case of mineral wool, press down the plates so that you can lay the vapor barrier and put flooring. But the greater the density of the insulation, the lower its efficiency. In addition, in such a construction it is no longer possible to make ventilation gap between insulation and vapor barrier.
Without proper air exchange, the subfloor “suffocates”, which inevitably leads to condensation and rotting of wood.
In an effort to minimize the problem, some manufacturers use 40x40mm or even 20x40mm bars. But even here there are downsides. The thinner the bar, the less load it can bear. So, you have to narrow the step between the beams. This, in turn, leads to an increase in the total number of lags, and, as a result, to additional costs.
The second option for creating a subfloor is a solid flooring made of inch boards or moisture-resistant plywood, OSB-3 boards with a thickness of at least 16 mm, screwed with self-tapping screws along the bottom plane of the log. Installing such a “carpet” is quite laborious, but the result is worth the effort. Indeed, in this case, you can make a layer of insulation of the proper thickness and not be afraid of freezing even in the most very coldy. In addition, it should be borne in mind that this option involves installation work from the underground, and this is possible only when technological manholes are provided in the foundation.
As for the material of the subfloor, it is necessary that it be well dried. Permissible humidity- no more than 20%. Before installation, the black floor boards and the logs themselves should be soaked with an antiseptic twice with an interval of at least 5 hours in order to reliably protect against moisture, rot and wood-boring insects. The choice of antiseptic should be taken seriously, as the beams will be hidden under the flooring. The fact that they are rotten, the owners of the house will only find out after the fact, when the floor begins to sag, or even completely fail.
When choosing an antiseptic for the subfloor, you should not save money by purchasing dubious products from little-known manufacturers
There are two main groups of antiseptics. Organic-based preparations penetrate deep into the wood, but exude a sharp and unpleasant odor, which, however, quickly disappears. Treatment with these chemicals is best done by dipping, but if this is not possible, application by roller or brush is acceptable. Water soluble products have no smell. They do not seep into the thickness of the material, so they need to be rubbed intensively with a brush until foam appears. It indicates that the drug has entered into chemical reaction with wood, which means that the antiseptic is going as it should.
Another key element"pie" of the floor - waterproofing. Wood must be protected from moisture. Many people use simple polyethylene film for reasons of economy. But it should be borne in mind that this material does not tolerate negative temperatures. In a country house that is not heated in winter, as well as in a house with a cold cellar, such protection will not last long. However, for cottages designed for year-round living, polyethylene is quite acceptable. And yet it would be wiser to use special waterproof membranes.
Proper installation of insulation
Now it's time to talk about warming. In a temperate climate, expanded clay is sufficient, covered between the beams. But for central Russia, mineral is more suitable ( stone wool). In this case, the step between the lags should be about 55 cm. The fact is that the plates have a width of 60 cm and are placed between the lags by surprise, thus eliminating the appearance of cracks and the formation of cold bridges in the future.
Plate insulation should be laid in two layers, with offset seams to prevent the formation of through cracks
More budgetary (but less efficient and durable) Styrofoam can also be used as a heater. In this case, it is desirable to close all joints mounting foam to create a continuous thermal insulation layer without thermal breaks.
Some construction companies they prefer to insulate subfloors with so-called ecowool, a relatively new material for us, which is based on recycled paper. This heat insulator has been used for many decades in Europe and the USA and has gained well-deserved popularity there.
Cork agglomerate also shows itself perfectly. It is an almost eternal material that is not afraid of water, cold or heat. But unfortunately, it is very expensive, so it is rarely used in private housing construction.
"Pie" of the floor with a ventilation gap
ventilation gap. To prevent wetting of the insulation and, as a result, rotting of wooden structural elements, you need to do air layer, more precisely, a gap of 50 mm in size, which will ensure the removal of steam. Usually it is created by bars with a section of 50 × 50 mm, nailed to the beams.
Subsequently, when it comes to laying the finishing floor, it will be necessary to ensure the flow fresh air into the underground space. To do this, it is enough to make a small gap between the flooring and the wall, and cover it with a plinth. Alternatively, you can install ventilation grilles in two or three places.
The next layer of the pie is vapor barrier membrane . It serves to keep water vapor out of the insulation. There are much more of them in the house than you can imagine: the use of taps and showers, laundry hung after washing, houseplants, human breath, etc. Without a vapor-permeable coating, the heat insulator will accumulate this moisture in itself. And in the wet state, it loses all its properties.
The vapor barrier should be laid with an overlap of 20-30 cm. For greater reliability, the seams are glued with special adhesive tape
And finally, the final stage of work is laying flooring under the finishing floor. It can be moisture resistant plywood, DSP, GVL, edged board and chipboard. The thickness of the material is chosen based on the distance between the beams. And it is important to comply with these norms, otherwise the flooring will sag, which will inevitably lead to damage. finish coat.
The thickness of the subfloor decking depending on the step of the beam
Finally, after laying the flooring, you can proceed to finishing floors, and if done correctly, the design will last for many decades. If parquet or PVC tiles will act as a finishing coating, the flooring should be two-layer. In this case, the plates, of course, need to be laid in a run. One more thing important requirement. AT particle boards the content of formaldehyde emission should be as low as possible. Only material groups E0 or E1 are allowed. Failure to comply with this condition may result in unpleasant odors indoors and, in the long term, causing damage to the health of residents.
If you decide to build a frame country house, then you should pay attention to the designs of all elements of the building. The roof, walls (street, internal), floors and floors are made in the form of a "pie", multilayer structure. If all the technology is followed, then we actually get a thermos.
The technological process of arranging each element of the building offers a different sequence and combinations of components of a multilayer structure.
So for the roof its own set of layers, for the floor and its own. In this article, we will consider with you the features of the "pie" of the floor of a frame house, installation methods.
Before choosing a floor material, you should decide on the type of foundation.
In most cases frame houses erected on or on a foundation type. This is due primarily to the fact that the house is not heavy up to 16 tons. A pile foundation is the cheapest, as it does not require the use of special construction equipment. Therefore, we will accept that our foundation of our house has a pile appearance.
For reliability of isolation lay a double layer. Also, instead of timber, you can use boards with a width of 15-25 cm and a thickness of 5-6 cm. The laying technology is the same on the edge.
For attic space the subfloor must be strong to withstand the weight of the insulation and an adult. Usually in the attic glass wool (insulation) is left in open form, so the entire load falls on the subfloor of the attic.
To protect everyone wooden structures use processing by special means antiseptics and penetrating compounds. But there are small nuances, it is better to process everything before mounting each element separately.
If the height allows, then the subfloor is stuffed from the bottom immediately to bearing beams. As mentioned above, everything must be treated with protective equipment.
The second method is to make secondary guides from above, but this method has not gained distribution, as it will require additional costs.
In most cases, the foundation is low and cranial bars are used, which are made of timber 5 x 5 cm in size. Which are attached at the bottom of the log or beam, using self-tapping screws or nails.
Around this place, better use basalt glass wool, the boards should be well treated with a penetrating compound.
And the surface of the finished floor is covered sheet metal or sheet of asbestos.
plinth pile foundation
Since we use the foundation, there is a space between the subfloor and the ground. Many make the mistake of completely sewing up this space.
Thinking they're reducing heat loss, but in fact, moisture accumulates in this space and it has nowhere to go, which leads to an acceleration of the process of wood decay.
To prevent this from happening opposite sides leave ventilation holes, which are decorated with lattices. Also, do not close the vents for the winter.
Arrangement of a warm floor in a frame house
For use both water heating and electric.
Let's start with electrical method, as it is often used in the arrangement warm floors. Cable floors, infrared and heating mats are used. It is best to trust the experts.
AT recent times more and more popular water heating wooden floor because it is much cheaper than electric.
Water heating can be equipped in three ways:
- Swedish plate.
- Use of heat reflective plates.
- Use of concrete screed.
Swedish plate - quite an expensive method of arranging a warm floor.
It is as follows:
Wait for the concrete to fully set. We get that the Swedish plate is a full-fledged one. Subsequently, we build a frame house on this slab.
Use of heat reflective plates.
Today we will consider one of the most popular schemes for installing an insulated floor in wooden house. The review will raise key questions about the preparation and installation of the substructure of the floor, the insulation pie and its protection, as well as the correct laying of natural board covering.
Floor support system requirements
High-quality insulation of a wooden floor requires that the configuration of its subsystem (log, supports, lintels) match the existing dimensions and form factor of the insulation. The most suitable for insulating a wooden floor are polystyrene foam and mineral wool, less commonly used bulk granular fillers like ecowool or perlite chips. The design of the floor bearing system should allow to securely fix the insulation, ensure its immobility and at the same time maintain its strength and functionality.
The key to building a reliable and durable insulated floor is to secure the joists well and provide a solid support for them. If the floor is arranged on the ground, it is necessary to place a number of supporting pedestals made of bricks or cast reinforced concrete. To simplify installation, the edges of the lag are supported by ledges in the strip foundation. They can be made with a perforator and angle grinder, and then repaired cement mortar, or provide at the stage of formwork assembly. Between the end of the beam and the entire foundation, there should be a compensation gap of the order of 1/4% of the length of the log.
1 - strip foundation; 2 - support pillars; 3 - waterproofing; 4 - floor logs; 5 - waterproofing lag
It is also necessary to make sure that the moisture contained in the stone elements of the structure - the foundation and supporting bollards - will not migrate into the wood. To do this, use linings of 2-3 layers of rolled waterproofing. You should focus on the processing of wood before starting installation work. All lumber must be thoroughly impregnated with antiseptics and, if necessary, flame retardants, and then dried in a pile.
Logs and counter-lattice
When installing a log, they are placed in increments corresponding to the format of the insulation used. To avoid frequent installation support pillars, you can use the cross log system. In this case, the lower bars have a cross section with equal parties and perform the main carrier function. The top row has frame device: boards placed on edge form longitudinal cells, convenient for laying insulation of a certain width and fastening floorboards.
If the house is located on slab foundation, then the floor carrier system has the simplest device. The logs are formed by one frame row, which is fixed with anchors to concrete base. The plane of the monolithic base forms the bottom for the cells under the insulation, ensuring its reliable fixation.
When constructing a floor on the ground, there is no such reference plane. One of the options for arranging it is to fill it with light porous material, such as expanded perlite or expanded clay, to the lower level of the lags.
Otherwise, the logs that form the cells for the insulation are provided with longitudinal stops. A bar of approximately 25x25 mm is screwed with self-tapping screws at the bottom of each log, forming parallel ledges. A mesh of shingles or a thin edged board is laid on them, due to which the insulation is supported.
1 - cranial bar; 2 - floor lag; 3 - grid; 4 - vapor barrier; 5 - insulation; 6 - floor board
It is important to know that since the stuffed bars “eat up” the space of the floor cells a little, the remaining height may not be enough to accommodate the insulation of such a thickness as provided thermotechnical calculation. In this case, bars of the same size are stuffed over the ribs of the frame system. They can be located parallel or across the upper row of logs, in the latter case, an additional gap is provided for ventilation of the insulation.
Insulation bookmark
The width of the cells for laying mineral wool mats should be 1-2% smaller sizes insulation. Due to the tight fit, excessive ventilation of the floor is eliminated and possible shrinkage of wool over time is compensated. When laying the mats, they must be carefully and evenly compressed across the plane, put into the cavity and then straightened inside. It is desirable that after laying the cotton wool forms a small hump protruding upward, which will be pressed against the boards. If foil wool is used, it is located with the reflective surface up.
In the case of expanded polystyrene, which is practically not compressible, minor gaps may form. They are eliminated by blowing with summer mounting foam at the end of filling all the cells. Too thick gaps in order to reduce foam consumption can be eliminated with thin cut-out PPS inserts.
To fill the insulation into the space between the lags, it is necessary to localize the cells by laying the bottom with a vapor-permeable membrane with a turn on wooden bars. In the very simple version you can use geotextiles or a vapor barrier to protect roofs. To prevent the membrane from shifting when filling the insulation, it is recommended to shoot it with staples to wooden elements floor systems.
How is the protection of the heat insulator
Various insulation and ventilation schemes may require limited air circulation in the space under the floor. This is especially true for houses on a pile-grillage foundation, where the insulation is in contact with street air and must be protected from getting wet.
So that mineral wool does not lose its heat-saving properties when saturated with moisture, it is covered from above with a vapor barrier. The protective membrane is spread over the log and insulation, then fixed to the wooden bars with small nails or staples. The joints must be carefully glued on both sides, it is better if they are located exactly on the edges of the floor carrier system.
In those rare cases when the dew point can move above the insulation with the formation of condensate on the vapor barrier, it is required to provide air under the flooring from the boards. Must be stuffed over frame log, covered with a vapor barrier, a counter-lattice of boards of the same width as the logs themselves. The thickness of the vent usually does not exceed 20-25 mm, while the counter-lattice itself does not affect the quality of fixing the flooring from the boards.
Laying a grooved board
The insulated frame floor system has solid wood elements that serve as excellent cold bridges. To prevent the outflow of heat, you can cover frame system floors with heat-insulating and moisture-resistant material, such as GVLV or MGL, and then lay the boards, having previously outlined the lag position.
For insulated floors, it is recommended to use a grooved board with compensation grooves on the wrong side. Such flooring will not creak when walking, it is less prone to uneven shrinkage and warping. Due to the tight joining of the boards, any kind of blowing between them is excluded. If limited air circulation is planned under the floor, then the holes for its inflow will be 10-15 mm distance gaps near the walls, which also serve to compensate for the linear expansion of wood.
When laying, a comb is cut off from the end of the first board, the groove is oriented towards itself. Fastening is carried out in each lag at one or two points. The boards are fixed with ruffed nails, which are hammered obliquely into the groove and finished off by instructing a steel bar. For high-quality rallying of boards 20-30 cm in front of them, a beam is temporarily attached to the logs and loose floorboards are squeezed out of it with a lever or a car jack.
The last board from the set is cut in accordance with the dimensions of the remaining gap, taking into account the curvature of the walls. It is squeezed from the wall by a montage through a lining of wooden block, and then attached to the logs through and through directly from the surface. Traces of fastening with nails are subsequently covered with a plinth.
All photos from the article
Despite the popularity of concrete, construction residential buildings wood is often used for flooring. Although this material has been used for several millennia, it still has not lost its relevance. Coverage is pretty good simple design, but still it is better to understand in detail which type is suitable for each specific case.
Strengths of hardwood floors
You can highlight such advantages as:
- their price in comparison with concrete monolithic or hollow is minimal;
- for their device, special equipment is not needed at all, and it is quite possible to do without professional builders. All that is needed is the ability to work with tools such as a hammer and saw;
- the bearing capacity is sufficient to absorb loads even from fairly massive furniture;
- compared to the same concrete, wood has a much greater sound and heat insulation ability;
Note!
In the case of it is not particularly important, because both the upper and lower rooms are heated.
But for the floor of the first floor with an unheated basement, a wooden floor would be an excellent choice.
- light weight allows you to do all the work with your own hands, the maximum that you may need is 1-2 assistants;
- there is a small plus from an aesthetic point of view. For example, ceiling beams may not be masked false ceiling and turn it into an interior detail.
Of course, it was not without a number of disadvantages:
- wood, despite the mandatory treatment with antiseptics and antipyretics, is still less durable than concrete. Although, under normal operating conditions, such a design may well last 50 years or even more;
- from point of view fire safety wood is also not the best choice;
- wood is much more susceptible to moisture levels.
However, the shortcomings voiced do not play a special role, subject to the rules of the overlap device and normal operation. So it is a good choice for a residential building.
Classification
The design of any ceiling consists of load-bearing elements(beams or ribs) and flooring (floor in rooms). Also, in the process of performing work, layers of hydro- and vapor barriers are laid, as well as a layer of heat-insulating material.
But there are certain differences and on a constructive basis, it is possible to distinguish such types of floors as:
- beam - can be considered the simplest option. The simplest pie floors on wooden beams can be represented simply as boardwalk over thick bars. The entire load (permanent and temporary) will fall on the beams, so the step directly depends on their cross section;
- ribbed - the main difference from beams is that the role of load-bearing elements is assigned to thick wide boards (section about 5x20 cm). Another important point - these boards are installed with a much smaller step. If for beams the distance could be up to 1.5 m, then in the case of a ribbed floor, the step is reduced to about 50 cm;
- beam-ribbed- a successful combination of the above structures, both beams and ribs are used. First, the beams are laid, then, in the transverse direction, the ribs (thick boards). Of the advantages, one can note the high rigidity of the resulting frame, in addition, it is possible to slightly reduce the cross section of the beams or increase the step between them. But the disadvantages should be written down the large thickness of the structure, it can "eat" up to 20-30 of the height of the room.
Note!
It is not necessary to place ribs on top of beams.
It is allowed to fasten them in the transverse direction between the beams themselves using steel corners.
More about the design and arrangement of floors
The design of the floor may vary depending on its location. For example, a ground floor pie on wooden beams usually includes a layer of heat insulator, because the space below is not heated. But in the case of interfloor ceilings you can do without them. So it’s worth understanding the design of the “pie” for different cases.
Floor covering on the first floor
For its device, both beam and ribbed structures can be used.
Before starting work on the floor, you need to take care of the preparatory work - if basement no, you have to work:
- first you will need to remove the soil within the room to a depth of at least 50-70 cm;
- then you need to pour a layer of sand or small gravel, carefully level and compact it;
- The final stage preparatory work- the device of brick columns around the entire perimeter of the room in increments of 0.7-1.5 m.
Note!
If it is planned to pair beams (ribs) directly with the walls, then it is advisable to perform their calculation for strength and stiffness.
It is undesirable to cover too large spans without additional supports.
As for the allowable span, much depends on the type of overlap:
- beam-ribbed structures due to increased rigidity can be used for spans up to 15 m;
- simple wooden beams can also cover a span of 15 m, but this will require an increase in their cross section;
- as for ribbed structures, the span up to 5-6 m can be considered optimal, if the ribs are shaped like an I-beam and reinforced with metal, then the maximum allowable span increases to 12 m.
Wooden floor pie by joists will include:
- the beams themselves;
- cranial bars;
- draft floor;
- 2 waterproofing layers (you can use ordinary glassine);
- clean floor.
The triumphant return of wood flooring is no longer disputed, their environmental friendliness and durability have been proven by decades of operation. It will not be a secret that such "revolutionary materials" as carpet, laminate and are made on the basis of polymers and contain substances harmful to the environment. Whether it's a classic - warmth and cozy color natural wood will make the interior of any home comfortable for living.
General requirements
Any objects from a tree implies, first of all, floor installation in a log house from similar material. This solution will create harmony between the walls and flooring. The technology of laying wooden flooring has been known for a long time, but the improvement of technological procedures continues to this day. The structural scheme for arranging a wooden coating consists of:
- preparatory (rough) layer;
- clean flooring.
Regardless of performance flooring must meet these requirements, as:
- water resistance;
- aesthetics;
- abrasion resistance;
- hygiene;
- durability;
- laying manufacturability.
In addition, the coverage must be warm, easy to clean, have high soundproofing properties and match the interior of the building.
Options for flooring in a wooden frame and the main structural elements
Masters advise to use the two most common methods arrangement boardwalk in a private house:
- on the ground using a log;
- along the floor beams.
The choice of option depends on the design of the object and should be carried out on early stages designing construction. In buildings with two levels and premises with a basement The second method is almost always used along the floor beams. His advantage lies in complete isolation from the ground Moreover, such a structure increases the rigidity of the entire structure. Flaw such flooring arrangements along the lags in wooden frame consists of increased noise, but the use of special noise-absorbing pads will reduce the noise level.
Variant with flooring on the ground provides for the equipment of supports, on which logs are subsequently placed. Thus, connection with the walls is excluded and, accordingly, sound and vibration vibrations are minimal. The base for the supports can be masonry made of red brick or concrete. Important! Supports are formed in rows with spans, equal to the distance between the lags, usually it is 0.5-1 meter. Under the base of the lag, it is imperative to lay a layer of roofing material. During work, regularly monitor the horizon lag level, their joints should be located only on the pillars of the supports.
It would be useful to remove a layer of soil to a depth of about 40-50 cm, followed by backfilling the underground space with gravel, crushed stone or river sand.
Depending on the living conditions plank flooring is divided into two types:
- single- for objects intended for seasonal residence;
- double- for premises with a permanent mode of residence.
First option floor installations in wooden log cabins most often used in country houses where people spend the summer season. Double construction formed in capital buildings and implies the use insulation, as well as layers of vapor and sound insulation.
Laying technology for single timber decking
In rooms with small area beams are mounted and fastened directly to the wall. If laying a log on support posts, then it is necessary to take into account the requirements that will ensure the reliability general design. Let's say the gap between the pillars is 0.8 m - the supporting beams must have a cross section of at least 100X100 mm. With an increase in the parameters between the supports up to 1 meter, beams of 120X120 mm will already be required. Logs are mounted across the room at intervals corresponding to the thickness of the boards. For example, a distance of 0.5 m will be enough to install a cover of 28 mm. For quality floor installations in a wooden frame tongue-and-groove lumber is used from coniferous or hardwood with a thickness of 28-40 mm. Traditional location - perpendicular to the wall with windows. The material is fixed with nails, their length is taken from - 2.5 times the thickness of the lumber. Possible two mounting methods:
- normal;
- parquet.
The essence of the usual method in that a nail is driven into the front of the board. Second option- This driving a nail at an angle of 45° into the corner of the comb.
Important! The very first plank is laid at a distance of 10-15 mm from the wall. It is recommended that the flooring be done first. parquet way, i.e. only every sixth board is fixed. As the material dries, the floor is re-laid with less labor. Wedges are used to seal the rows, the gap should not exceed 1 mm.
In order to ventilate the underground space at the corners of the floor, it is necessary to organize openings that close decorative grilles. Its design should prevent the ingress of foreign objects and water during cleaning. It should be remembered that there are not enough vents in the flooring, and it is necessary to foresee windows for ventilation in the basement of the building.
