Today we will talk about how to make a viewing hole in the garage. For many car enthusiasts necessary element garage construction, because many of us are trying to save money, which is why some preventive work related to the car is carried out on our own. We must immediately make a reservation that, despite the apparent simplicity of the design viewing hole, to build it is not so simple. Therefore, most garage owners prefer to invite experienced craftsmen to get guaranteed high quality end result. But in order for the guarantee to be one hundred percent, you yourself need to know the construction technology garage pit. Therefore, read the article, remember everything, and this will be a guarantee that the masters will not deceive you.
Inspection hole in the garage
Planning the construction of a viewing hole
There is two situations when building a hole in the garage:
in a newly erected building;
already in operation.
The first option is simpler, because nothing prevents digging the soil to the size of the intended structure. To do this, you can even use the services of an excavator, thereby speeding up the process itself and moving away from labor-intensive earthworks.
But both situations happen often, so we will deal with them separately. But first, let's talk about the size of the pit in the garage under the car.
Inspection hole dimensions
The basis of dimensional indicators is the automobile base, or rather, the distance between the wheels of your car, both in width and length. But there are also minimum width parameters, which are often taken as a basis. This is 80-85 cm. As for the length, 1 m is added to the length of the car. Although we must pay tribute that for the convenience of using the inspection pit, many do not stop at this size, so in garages you can find pits up to 6 m long.
Sketch showing minimum width viewing hole
Now with depth. It is clear that the growth of the owner of the garage and should be this size. At the same time, he must reach with his hands any part or assembly on the machine. But experts recommend deepening the viewing hole up to 2 m. And even if a person’s height is small, then you can always install a stand or flooring at the bottom. True, this is not always possible. Much will depend on the level ground water. If it is high, for example, 1.2-1.5 m, then you can forget about the pit.
Those were the dimensions. Now about the size of the building. For obvious reasons, the pit itself under the pit is dug out more. This is due to the fact that in order to form the structure itself, it is necessary to equip the structure. And for this, it is necessary to lay a pillow with waterproofing on the bottom and fill it with a screed. The walls are assembled from blocks or bricks or poured into a formwork as a monolithic structure. For all these materials, space is required without taking into account the selected dimensions of the observation structure.
Therefore, a pit is dug with a width equal to the width of the viewing hole, plus the thickness of the walls, plus 30 cm. The length is calculated in the same way. Depth is the thickness of the pillow, the thickness of the screed and the waterproofing layer, plus 1.8-2.0 m.
Sketch of a viewing hole with all dimensions
On our site you can find the most popular - from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-rise Country".
Inspection pit construction technology
We will not tell you how to build a garage with a pit that is being built. It's not that hard. Let's talk about how to make a viewing hole in an already operated garage.
Marking the pit inside the garage
Usually the floor in the garage is a thick concrete screed, in which a reinforcing frame is laid in the form of a grid of steel reinforcement. Therefore, according to the marking, it is necessary to gouge the concrete and cut off the reinforcement along the perimeter of the pit.
Remove from the resulting opening with shovels sand and gravel pad and soil. The walls and bottom of the pit are leveled with shovels to the maximum. This is a laborious job that can take up to two days. Although much will depend on the composition of the soil under the building and the activity of the craftsmen. There is one advantage when building a viewing hole in an operated garage. The construction site is under a canopy, so rain in this case no problem.
Digging a pit (excavation)
Pit ventilation
The mistake is made by those who do not think about the ventilation system. But its purpose is not only to remove moist air. Musty odors from oily rags, gasoline will fill small space quickly, gradually moving into the garage itself. So it is better to spend a little time and money, but to build ventilation.
Essentially this plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, which is taken out of the building. To do this, they dig a horizontal trench, which is removed either under the foundation or through the wall. Sand is poured into it and a pipe is laid with a conclusion above the roof of the garage. The lower end should be at the bottom of the hole.
Ventilation pipe inside the inspection hole
Arrangement of a viewing hole
So, let's move on to the main work related to the construction of the pit itself. Prepare the bottom first:
fall asleep layer of sand 15-20 cm thick rammed with watering.
Fall asleep rubble medium or fine fraction with a thickness of 10 cm, which is also rammed.
Held waterproofing the entire pit: floor and walls.
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of designing and building garages and other "small architectural forms" for a country house. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
Waterproofing
Waterproofing the inspection hole in the garage is a crucial stage. So understand this process.
Used for waterproofing roll material. It can be a polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.2 mm, laid with a sleeve. To do this, use roofing material or modern waterproofing materials based on bitumen.
Waterproofing strips are laid in strips from wall to wall overlapping relative to each other with an offset of 10-15 cm. Bituminous products in overlapping areas are fastened with bituminous mastic. The plastic film is bonded self-adhesive tapes. The photo below just shows the option with polyethylene. Please note that the edges of the waterproofing lead outside the pit and are pressed with a load.
Waterproofing the inspection hole in the garage with a plastic film
Formation of the floor and walls
The prepared bottom is poured with a screed 3-7 cm thick. No reinforcing frame should be laid in it, because the structure is not subjected to loads, except for the weight of a person. Therefore, the main attention is the construction of the walls.
As mentioned above, there are two options:
use bricks or blocks;
erect a monolithic structure.
In the first case, block wall material they are laid along the perimeter of the prepared pit, laying masonry elements with a bandage. That is, with an offset of half a block or brick. For bonding, use the usual masonry mortar with the formulation 1:2 (cement-sand).
Pit made of blocks or bricks
If a monolithic structure is being built, then formwork is assembled for this. It is made from boards, slabs or sheets of even and durable materials. For example, from a metal sheet or corrugated board, plywood or OSB boards.
The main task is to assemble the formwork so that it does not disperse under the action of a sufficiently large weight of poured concrete. If the soil under the garage is clayey, then the formwork is mounted as one layer of fences from the outside. The wall of the pit covered with waterproofing will be able to easily withstand any load. If the soil is sandy, loose and fragile, then the formwork is installed in two layers, leaving space between them for pouring concrete mortar.
Concrete is poured at one time, without leaving the next day. A break can be between fillings, but not more than 4 hours. Look at the photo, this is what the formwork looks like with concrete mortar poured into it.
Observation pit, like a monolithic concrete structure
It is recommended to lay a reinforcing frame in the form of a lattice of reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm in concrete walls. Lattices are installed along the walls so that they are in the middle of the formwork space. On adjacent walls, the frames are interconnected with a knitting wire.
A week after pouring the concrete solution, the formwork is removed. But concrete will gain its strength only after 28 days. After that, you need to prime the surface of the structure and think over the type of finish. The best option is ceramic tiles. She washes well. But you can paint the pit, plaster or brick it. As for the pit made of bricks or blocks, it must be plastered, then whitewashed or tiled.
In principle, we can assume that the construction of a viewing hole in the garage is completed. It should be added that often a restrictive structure is laid along the perimeter of the structure flush with the floor. This is steel corner, welded in the form of a rectangle, equal to the size of the inspection hole. It is attached to pins or studs laid in the process of pouring concrete.
plastic models
Today, manufacturers of products made of polymer and plastic materials offer ready-made plastic pits for the garage. We must pay tribute to this type of product, which simplified the construction of inspection pits. There are more and more offers on the market every year. There is not only a wide range of sizes, but also a variety of raw materials, and prices vary significantly.
For the finished pit, there is no need to carry out waterproofing. The main thing is to lay a good sand cushion and fill the space between the walls of the excavated recess and the plastic product itself with sand.
Video description
In order for you to understand what we are talking about, we suggest watching a video that describes one of the models on the market.
Video description
About the errors of arranging a pit in the garage - the following video:
Conclusion on the topic
So, we have analyzed the topic - a viewing hole in the garage (dimensions and construction rules). How complicated is the whole building process, you be the judge. But keep in mind that the exact dimensions of the pit are the key to success. They made the hole smaller - it will be inconvenient to be in it. They made more, especially in width, then there is a possibility that the car simply cannot fit on it.
A diagnostic pit is always a welcome attribute of a garage. It allows you to comfortably inspect the bottom of the car. A handy motorist with her help will independently replace the oil or a torn cuff. It is from her that the arrangement of the garage should begin. Having spent a certain amount, a pit can be built using hired labor. The article tells how to do this work with your own hands.
What to build a viewing hole from
The inspection pit in the garage is usually built of brick or monolithic reinforced concrete. Both options have their advantages and disadvantages. Brickwork is less labor-intensive, but not as durable and requires additional grouting of external masonry joints before applying waterproofing.
Reinforced concrete walls are stronger and more durable. The disadvantages include the increased complexity of manufacturing. To pour the concrete solution, it is necessary to construct a formwork, inside which reinforcement is knitted. A large amount of solution is required. It is possible to make both brick and concrete walls with your own hands.
Dimensions and position of the inspection hole
It is more rational to tear off the inspection trench at the same time as laying the foundation of the garage. The width of the ditch is usually 70–80 cm. If you take it less than 70 cm, the trench will be tight, wider than 80 cm - there is more risk of falling into a hole, which often happens. Well, if there are a few strong guys nearby. The trench is about 180 cm high, so that there is about 15 cm of clearance from the head to the bottom of the car. The length must be at least two meters, and better - along the length of the car plus 1 meter.
The position of the ditch can be different: in the center of the gate or with an offset. In this case, the machine stands away from the underground with its damp air. To inspect or perform any work, you will have to maneuver to drive into the ditch. For a more convenient entrance, the inspection pit in the garage can have an L-shaped configuration. You can go up and down the stairs without rolling the car.
Going down the ladder into the pit is inconvenient and dangerous. The ladder should be stationary, at the same time - comfortable and safe. The best option is to make steps simultaneously with the construction of the building envelope. With brick walls and steps, it is advisable to make bricks. When pouring walls made of monolithic reinforced concrete, steps should be cast at the same time. If for some reason they were not made at this stage, then the ladder can be made later with your own hands, when the inspection ditch is being arranged. The ladder is made of wood - with fastening steps on bowstrings or stringers, as well as metal - with corrugated iron treads.
How to make a pit light
Carrying out the arrangement of the garage box, lighting of the viewing hole in the garage should be provided. According to the rules for lighting in repair pits, the use of 220 V incandescent lamps is prohibited. It is allowed to use light sources with lamps of no more than 36 V. A step-down transformer is used to power them. A good option are fluorescent lamps in a sealed housing. If a 24V carrier is used, the safety cable must be at least four meters long.
Underground ventilation
In the repair trench, due to the temperature difference, high humidity and condensation forms and settles on the bottom of the car. To avoid this unpleasant phenomenon, the inspection hole in the garage must have good ventilation. The exhaust channel is made from an asbestos-cement or plastic sewer pipe embedded in the crushed stone floor preparation. This pipe must be connected with a transition elbow to a vertical exhaust riser. Hoods from under the ceiling of the garage box and trenches must be independent. If you combine them into one, the ventilation efficiency of the technical underground will drop sharply.
The contours of the pit
Before marking out a place in the garage for a future trench, it is necessary to draw a drawing of its cross section. The clear dimension of the trench should be taken as a basis. For example, the width will be 70 cm. Double the wall thickness must be added to this value. If the latter is 20 cm, it will turn out: 70 + (2 × 20) \u003d 110 cm. Add another margin - 5 cm on each side. Ultimately, the width of the trench below will be: 110 + (2 × 5) = 120 cm. In order to facilitate subsequent application coating waterproofing, the walls of the trench should be inclined. To do this, it is enough to increase the width of the trench on the garage floor by 60 cm (30 cm per side). That is, at the top, the width of the ditch will be 180 cm. By the same principle, they dig trenches for the foundation.
Bucket or shovel
If the inspection hole in the garage is made simultaneously with the pouring of the foundation, it makes sense to resort to the services of an excavator. All work will be completed in half a day. The costs will be the same order as if you hire diggers. Sometimes it happens that in the season you still can’t find them. Well, if the idea came to arrange a technical trench when the garage has already been built? There is only one way out - to dig a pit with your own hands. In order not to do unnecessary work, some excavated soil should be stored near the construction site, since the earth will be needed to backfill the sinuses.
The base of the trench from penetrating moisture should be protected by waterproofing. On the compacted bottom of the pit, a 10-centimeter footing is preliminarily poured. For preparation, a solution of grade M 150 is sufficient. In width, the preparatory layer is flush with the outer surface of the future walls of the trench. Any type of rolled insulating material is used to isolate the sole - roofing felt, Bikrost, Aquaizol, polymer membranes. Cloths should be cut with an overlap on the walls.
A concrete floor is poured over the insulating layer. The brand is taken stronger - M 200. A thickness of 7–8 cm is enough, but it is better to reinforce the surface to be poured with a 150 × 150 road mesh with a wire thickness of 4 (3) mm.
Wall construction rules
To paraphrase Henry Ford, we can say - the design of the walls of the trench can be any, provided that it is rigid and durable. So that in the near future the walls do not bulge and crack, you should know how they should not be done:
- put brick walls in one spoon (120 mm thick);
- make brickwork without reinforcement;
- use silicate products for masonry;
- pour the concrete mixture directly into the ground (with outer side ditches);
- pour concrete without reinforcement;
- use concrete.
Combined wall
One of the options structures of the enclosing structure with their own hands. The outer walls of the pit are dug out inclined, with a margin in width, in order to provide further access for waterproofing work. Lay out 4-5 rows of brickwork in half a brick along the entire internal contour of the future structure. This partition will serve as an internal formwork. The outer one is installed, retreating 130 mm from the folded wall immediately to the entire height of the trench, using old boards, plywood sheets, chipboard, OSB and other similar materials. They support it with spacers and jibs, after which a concrete solution is poured with the upper edge of the masonry.
A reinforcing masonry mesh 250 mm wide with a cell of 50 × 50 and a wire thickness of 4 or 5 mm is laid. Lay out the next section and install the reinforcement again. For better adhesion to concrete, the outer surface of the brickwork is made “into the wasteland”. The rigidity of the structure will be given by closed belts of reinforcement bars with a diameter of 10 mm, laid at the bottom and top of the fence. In order to subsequently equip the lighting of the viewing hole in the garage, niches are provided for installing lamps. Waterproofing, if provided for by the project, is carried out after the removal of the outer formwork.
Survey ditch and groundwater
Unfortunately, it is not always possible to make a survey ditch in the garage. When groundwater (GW) is located under the garage at a depth of less than two meters, it is not worth starting construction. Life shows that in this case no waterproofing of the walls will help. When the GW are below 2.5 meters, a trench can be built, provided that high-quality waterproofing external walls of the inspection ditch. It can be done with your own hands from several layers of pasting material: roofing felt, TechnoNIKOL, Stekloizol, Hydrostekloizol and others. Glue the surfaces with molten bitumen. There are penetrating materials: Hydrotex, Aquatron-6, Penetron. They are convenient in that they are applied to wet concrete and reduce waiting times. A good clay castle is greasy crumpled clay.
global warming
So that the inspection hole in the garage is not covered with frost in winter, it can be insulated. To do this, the outer walls, on which waterproofing is applied, must be pasted over with insulation boards - polystyrene foam 5 cm thick. If such insulation is laid in 2 layers under the blind area around the perimeter of the entire garage, the floor in the garage and the trench will be even warmer.
Trench at full speed
In order not to accidentally fall into the pit, you need to make a fencing deck over it. The most simple design- thick transverse boards laid inside the edging from the corners, installed with the help of embedded elements or fixed anchor bolts. For this purpose, woodworking waste is well suited - slabs laid with a bulge down. The inspection hole in the garage, closed by them, when viewed from below, resembles a front-line dugout.
Finally
The construction of an observation trench resembles the pouring of a foundation and goes through the same steps:
- markup;
- excavation;
- sole manufacturing;
- walling;
- waterproofing;
- warming.
Having completed the construction of a trench made of reinforced concrete or brick, it is arranged. From the inside, the pit can be plastered or tiled. Such an "underground", built with your own hands, will allow you to drive a car with complete confidence in its technical condition. After all, by connecting the lighting of the viewing hole in the garage, you can regularly assess the condition of the chassis of your car.
In our country, an inspection pit is planned for the first time during the construction of a garage. She happens to be great helper any motorist, because it allows you to carry out minor repair or maintenance work, as well as diagnostics, and without any special material costs. From this article, you will learn how to make a viewing hole in the garage, what materials will be required for this, and also what its benefits are in general.
What is a viewing hole for?
The answer is obvious: it is needed in order to make it more convenient to service the vehicle. In case of breakdowns, some turn to special technical centers, but most motorists prefer to do the most complex operations with their own hands. And it is much more convenient to do it in a cozy and calm atmosphere.
Apart from practical work, the inspection pit is able to provide unhindered access to:
- running car;
- exhaust pipe;
- bottom;
- oil pan;
- gearbox;
- muffler.
Now, having familiarized ourselves with the purpose of the viewing hole, we proceed directly to work.
How to make a viewing hole yourself
The process consists of several stages, consider them.
Stage one. Preliminary markup
First you must determine the shape and size of the viewing hole in the garage. This is an extremely important point, since the pit will be equipped in an existing garage, which, accordingly, will make the task more difficult, and the working conditions will be cramped.
When marking, be guided by the fact that the soil that forms the walls of the pit will have a certain slope, while the dimensions of the structure themselves should be such that working in it is as convenient as possible. This is first. And secondly, in the future you should easily park over the pit without fear that the vehicle will fall into it. There are certain measures to protect against slipping, but about them a little later.
Based on all this, the working width of the pit should be 70 cm - in this case, even the smallest car models will have about 15-20 cm for maneuvers. If necessary, the width can be increased.
Note! If you are a happy owner of a Zhiguli with a track width of 1.3 m, then you can increase the width of the pit to 80-85 cm.
The length of the structure is also determined for reasons of convenience, but the area of \u200b\u200bthe garage itself should also be taken into account. In any case, it must be at least 2 m.
Using pegs with rope or a small amount of lime, mark the perimeter of the pit on the floor, add wall thickness on each side (depending on the stability of the soil) and make a small margin for slope. If we are talking, for example, about dense loam, it should be approximately 25-30 cm. But the depth should be such that about 25 cm remains from the top of your head to the bottom of the car. Let's give a small example.
Example .
For this we use all the same "Zhiguli". The clearance of this car is approximately 16 cm. And if your height is, say, 1.8 m, then the “clean” depth of the pit should fluctuate between 1.7-1.8 m. Although it is better to make it a little larger, because in the future you can always equip the raised floor to the required height or, alternatively, substitute a bench.
Stage two. Preparing Equipment and Consumables
In the course of work you will need:
- rule;
- concrete mixer;
- capacity;
- shovel;
- self-tapping screws;
- concrete;
- boards;
- bulk building materials;
- screwdriver;
- roulette.
The amount of this or that material depends on the size of the future structure.
Stage three. Excavation
You have to dig about 9 m³ of earth, which is difficult, especially if the soil is solid and the work will be done manually. This is the most difficult of the stages, but professional excavators can be involved in the work.
After digging a trench, leave part of the earth in the garage or next to it - with its help you will fill the sinuses when the walls are completed. Take everything else out. To correctly calculate the equipment required for removal, remember: the volume of loosened soil will be approximately ¼ larger than the volume of the pit itself.
After that, level the bottom of the trench and tamp it down using fine gravel. To do this, pour crushed stone in a layer 5-7 cm thick and compact it with a rammer.
Note! It will be much more convenient to work in a viewing hole if you make niches for materials, tools and spare parts in the walls. Provide such niches in advance, even at the stage of earthworks.
Stage four. Wall and floor construction
There are two possible materials that can be used in this case:
- brick;
- concrete.
We recommend resorting to the second option, since it will cost less. In addition, the design will turn out to be more reliable, and the embedded elements will be fixed better. Therefore, we consider the option with monolithic concrete.
Step 1. First, build a concrete floor 6-7 cm thick over the rubble. Reinforce it with a reinforcing mesh 3-4 cm thick and a maximum cell size of 15x15 cm.
Step 2 Prepare concrete in next proportion(for 1 m³): “four hundredth” cement (300 kg) + crushed stone with a fraction size of 0.5 to 2 cm (1210 kg) + water (210 l) + sand (680 kg). If you knead by hand, then you will need a little more water, although it is still recommended to use a concrete mixer - so the finished solution will be more mobile.
Step 3 Fill the floor with the resulting solution.
Note! The compressive strength coefficient of such a surface will be approximately 200, which is quite enough in this case.
Step 4 Prepare wall mortar. The proportions here should be somewhat different: 360 kg of the same cement + 1168 crushed stone + 670 kg of sand. The volume of water is the same - 210 liters. The thickness of the walls will be 15 cm.
Step 5 Build formwork from OSB boards 1-1.2 cm thick. In the future, these plates may be required for other needs.
Step 6 Reinforce walls. Many people neglect this, but it is better not to save on quality. To do this, you can use the same mesh as for the floor.
Step 7. Pour concrete in layers, the height of each tier should be 30-40 cm. Compact each tier with bayonet shovel. In the last tier, equip the "glasses" cylindrical shape, in which then install the lamps. To do this, place pieces of the sewer pipe into the holes in the formwork (necessarily at an angle).
Step 8 From pre-welded metal corners, frame the pit; for fastening, use embedded anchors made from pieces of reinforcement. The frame will perform several functions at once:
- strengthening corners;
- "Clip" for flooring from boards;
- curb for insurance (so that the car does not slip off).
Step 9 Backfilling. In the resulting gaps, fill the ground with layers of 15-20 cm, carefully tamping each of them.
Stage five. Waterproofing
If in your area the level groundwater high enough, then additionally take care of high-quality insulation. There are several possible options here.
- Ruberoid. It is laid in two layers on top of bituminous mastic. The overlaps should be 20 cm, all of them are also glued with hot bitumen. The shelf life of such insulation is up to 15 years.
- Dry penetrating mixtures. They are diluted with water immediately before use. Mixtures penetrate deep into the structure, but are used mainly as additional insulation.
- Polymer membranes. They have a long service life (up to 50 years). Installation provides arrangement reinforced frame and laying a layer of geotextile. The membranes are self-adhesive, the overlap should be 10-30 cm.
- Oily clay + oil refinery waste. Practically not used.
What else to pay attention to?
- If the lighting will be provided by the cylindrical recesses mentioned above, then cable laying and socket installation will be required. If the light source is portable, then all this is not needed.
- Ventilation may be required to protect the pit from condensate, inflow fresh air and outflow of various chemistry. The easiest way to do this is with a flexible duct, which should be brought out of the pit to a height of 25 cm above the floor.
- When carrying out earthworks, fasten the walls of the pit in without fail! Use planks with spacers for this.
- Finally, when doing work, use the tools personal protection(boots, gloves, if necessary - a respirator and goggles).
Do-it-yourself inspection hole in the garage: video
Outcome
An observation hole is easy to make yourself. Of course, it is easier to do it at the stage of building a garage, but also in finished building it won't be difficult to do so. With such a "bunker" it will be much easier for you to repair and maintain your car.
As a result, we note that it is better to work with an assistant. He will not only help or give tools, but will also come to the rescue in an emergency.
Every car owner sooner or later faces minor repairs to his vehicle. An ordinary check of the technical condition of the machine can turn into hours of waiting. Saving money and time will allow you to have your own viewing hole in the garage, which you can do with your own hands.
Functions and necessity of an inspection and vegetable pit in the garage
The need for an inspection hole in the garage is obvious, since in cases of oil changes, minor repairs to the bottom of the body or a routine inspection, you have to set aside several hours for a trip to the station Maintenance and pay for expensive services.
The pit for technical inspection of the car can also be used as a cellar or vegetable store. For this, niches and shelves are constructed inside it.
The condition for the high-quality use of an inspection pit as a technical structure and a place for storing products is compliance with all construction standards and the availability of reliable waterproofing of the floor and walls.
Even such a simple design requires careful planning. An important point at the same time, the quality of the soil and the level of groundwater is determined. The most suitable basis for such structures is clay soil. Its peculiarity lies in the fact that it does not allow moisture to pass through, which means it can become a kind of waterproofing layer.
With a large accumulation of groundwater and high level their location, the inspection pit is additionally equipped with a drainage system for draining excess moisture, as well as submersible pumps so that the room can be quickly dried.
Step-by-step guide to making a viewing hole
Installation of a viewing hole can be carried out independently. There is nothing difficult in this if you follow the detailed instructions.
How to determine size
To make a calculation of the area of \u200b\u200bthe future viewing hole, you need to take into account the thickness of the walls and base. For similar calculations it is necessary to remember the course of geometry and resort to a simple formula that determines the area - S \u003d ah, where a is the length, h is the width of the pit. The finished inspection pit will have dimensions of 75x185x300 cm. The thickness of the concrete walls and floor, as a rule, is about 10 cm. The calculations will be as follows: 0.85x3 \u003d 2.55 m² - this is the area of \u200b\u200bthe pit for the viewing hole.
Comfortable work in the inspection pit creates a properly calculated space, namely, its parameters should be convenient for the complexion of the person in it. Usually the width of the pit is built in the range from 70 to 75 cm. This width is enough for you to move freely inside. The same distance between the walls makes the observation structure convenient for the arrival of a car.
The pit can be wider if the inspection hole is intended for large or trucks. The distance between the inner sides of the wheels of such vehicles is much larger (from 80 to 90 cm).
The observation pit is arranged in such a way that the walls narrow slightly to the floor. Schematically, in cross section, its design resembles an inverted trapezoid. This shape provides easy access to tools in niches and free movement.
The length of the inspection hole is selected based on the size of the garage. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room allows, then a staircase can be provided in the pit. To do this, the length of the pit is increased by 100–120 cm.
The depth of the pit "with a margin" for installing the floor
The height of the pit is at least 170–180 cm. These dimensions are relative, since the depth is made in accordance with the height of the car owner. Being in the inspection hole, a person should not touch the bottom of the car with his head.
For additional security of the car and its owner, the inspection pit is equipped with metal limiters. Usually they are four pillars fixed at the corners of the niche. They rise 10-15 cm above it. Sometimes not four pillars are used for technical inspection, but two metal corners. They are fastened against each other along the edges of the length of the pit.
The depth must be more growth host by 25–30 cm. With such a distance from the base to the body, the hands will not quickly get tired, as this makes it possible for them to be in a bent position.
Materials and tools
Most often, concrete, wood, metal or brick are used for manufacturing.
To calculate the required amount of concrete, you must use the formula that determines the volume. To do this, multiply the values of the length, width and height of the wall. Similar calculations are carried out for the floor.
If a brick is used during the construction of the pit, then, knowing its parameters, it is easy to calculate required amount of this material in pieces. The dimensions of the red brick are 250x120x60 mm.
When building a viewing hole, you can not do without the following tools:
- shovel and bayonet shovel;
- buckets for excavated earth and concrete mix;
- trowels;
- welding machine;
- hacksaws.
The following materials are also required:
- bricks;
- cement, sand, gravel;
- concrete M200 for the base;
- boards with a section of 400x50 mm;
- reinforcing bars;
- metal corner 50 mm wide;
- waterproofing material.
Instructions for making a viewing hole from bricks, boards, concrete and iron
All work must be done in a strict sequence of steps:
- Before you make a hole in the garage, you need to mark the area. After the pit is dug, its bottom can be covered with a raised floor or built comfortable coasters. If the ground is unstable, then it must be strengthened with boards and struts. Remember that loosened earth is 25-30% larger in volume than the dimensions of the pit. It should not be taken out immediately, since part of the soil will be needed to compact the space between the wall of the pit and the brickwork (concrete, metal sheet, boards). The other part of the land will be required to level the floor throughout the garage.
- At the stage of formation of the pit, it is necessary to take care of equipping niches in the walls. They are comfortable to hold lighting, tools, materials. Niches are recommended to be placed at the height of the elbows. You don't have to bend down for the tool.
- When the pit is dug, it is necessary to level and compress its bottom. For this, a rammer is used, which can be built using self-tapping screws, thick (with a diameter of 100 to 150 mm) and thin timber (for the handle). To do this, attach a thin one to the end of one side of a thick beam. The design will resemble the letter "T", where the shock part will be at its base. Pour medium-sized gravel onto the prepared surface, compress.
- Then you need to prepare the concrete mixture for pouring the floor. To make the base more durable, it must be reinforced with a metal mesh or rods. The dimensions of the cells in the metal frame should not exceed 15 cm. The grate should not be allowed to touch the bottom of the pit.
- Pour concrete, completely covering the metal frame. It will take from 7 to 21 days for the mixture to solidify. It depends on the air temperature.
- When the concrete is completely hardened, you can begin to build walls in the viewing hole.
Features of the installation of partitions depends on the material used.
Observation pit made of concrete
Before pouring the mixture, it is necessary to make a formwork. For this, it is best to use OSB boards. This material does not pass the poured mixture and does not deform over time. The plates are fastened together with the help of boards and self-tapping screws so that the distance between them is at least 15 cm.
To hold the shape of a wooden structure, it must be fixed with spacers. Gaps in the joints of the plates should be absent or minimal. A reinforcing mesh should be installed inside the finished formwork.
There is an option for pouring concrete with one-sided formwork. To do this, it is necessary to cover the walls of the pit with waterproofing material. Further along the inner perimeter of the pit, OSB plates are installed. Between them and the waterproofing is placed metal grid. Concrete is poured inside this structure.
Observation pit made of bricks
A waterproofing sheet is laid in the finished pit. It should completely cover the floor and walls. The canvas must be laid with an overlap. So that the edges of the material do not bulge, they are pressed with boards. On top of the waterproofing, masonry is made “in half a brick”. When the wall reaches a height of 135 cm, you can make niches, and then continue laying to the top edge of the pit. It is recommended to install a metal frame from the corner on the last row, and it should be welded in such a way that one shelf of each side is parallel to the floor. Thick boards covering the pit will be laid on it. Next, they pour the concrete floor in the garage.
Inspection pit made of metal sheets (caisson)
This design resembles a large box. In its manufacture, the sheets must be connected by continuous welding. The finished structure must be carefully treated with anti-corrosion coatings. The box should be equipped with fasteners. They are welded metal corners that rest on the ground by 100-150 cm. They are attached to the body with four sides. They will hold the box in place. If this is not done, the entire structure will simply float when the groundwater level rises.
Observation pit made of wooden planks
Wood without proper treatment quickly rots. Therefore, the material must be impregnated with special antifungal agents and additionally waterproofed. Boards for walls are better to take thick. The material is installed horizontally. Spacers are fixed along the edges of the narrow sides of the inspection hole.
Waterproofing device
This process is carried out both before the construction of the structure (external insulation), as well as after its construction (internal insulation).
If the garage is located on a site with a low level of groundwater, then many owners are in no hurry to isolate the viewing hole from moisture. However, the hydrological situation of any area changes every year, so it is recommended to take care of insulation even at the construction stage. For this, special films or membranes are used, for example, butyl rubber, aquaizol. They must be laid in a pit. The edges of the material should be laid with an overlap of 10–15 cm. To obtain a sealed seam at the overlap, use double-sided tape.
When installing a film or membrane, it is important not to damage their integrity. Otherwise, moisture from the soil will get into the pit.
The laid waterproofing layer is melted using blowtorch. As a result of this, the film straightens out, adhering more closely to the walls and the bottom of the inspection hole.
Do-it-yourself internal waterproofing of a viewing hole in a garage involves treating the surface of a finished viewing structure with liquid substances, which, when dried, form a dense water-repellent layer. The composition for the treatment of pools has proven itself well. It is applied with a dense wide brush, and when solidified, the substance forms a waterproof material resembling rubber. For greater reliability, more than two layers should be applied.
The insulating material can be applied with a spray gun
There is another way of internal isolation from moisture - this is the use of special primers based on cements, which tend to be deeply absorbed into the applied material. This effect is achieved due to the polymer particles that are in the mixture. They block the capillaries that allow moisture to penetrate through the base material.
How to close the finished viewing hole
A covered inspection pit will not only protect the car from accidental failure, but also serve as an additional waterproofing layer. In the absence of a cover, evaporated moisture settles on the lower parts of the car body, thereby creating favorable conditions for the formation of metal corrosion. To avoid such problems, the viewing hole is covered. To do this, use sheets of metal or boards.
Wood is relatively inexpensive and light material. If necessary, the boards are easy to replace. Pick them up from hard rock wood such as oak and larch. Before use, the boards are coated with antifungal impregnations and antiseptic substances. They are laid in the openings of metal corners fixed at the top of the viewing hole. The thickness of each board must be more than 40 mm.
The use of metal is less convenient, since this material has big weight It is inexpensive and resistant to corrosion. During operation, its surface bends.
Video: do-it-yourself viewing hole in the garage
Step-by-step guide to building a vegetable pit with insulation
The construction of a vegetable pit has its own characteristics.
Drawing
For a vegetable pit, both the presence of waterproofing and depth are important.
The place for storing vegetables must be below the freezing point. Otherwise, the meaning of food storage is lost, as they will be spoiled by low temperatures.
The freezing point depends on the region where the garage is located, for example, inin the northern regions the ground freezes up to 150 cm. Given this fact, it is necessary to dig a pit with a depth of at least 190 cm. From 10 to 15 cm must be allocated for the drainage layer under the base, about 10 cm more is required to install the ceiling. 170–175 cm remains for placing shelves, racks and niches for vegetables and lighting. Depth also depends on the height of the host.
Option with optimal dimensions for this structure
The optimal width of the pit for vegetables is 150 cm. This size allows you to optimally place shelves and racks, while the person will not be constrained in movements inside the pit. To select the length, you need to follow the rule - the pit should not reach the walls of the garage closer than 50 cm.
Necessary materials and tools
To make a vegetable pit in the garage, you will need the following materials:
- waterproofing sheet;
- reinforcing bars;
- sand;
- gravel;
- formwork boards;
- metal corners;
- wire;
- bricks, metal sheets, boards or concrete M 250.
During the construction of this structure, you can not do without such tools:
- bayonet and shovel;
- concrete mixers;
- containers for concrete mix and water;
- blowtorch;
- double sided tape;
- screwdriver.
Calculations of materials for the construction of a vegetable pit are similar to a viewing pit.
Manufacturing instructions
Having prepared everything necessary tools and materials, you can start building a vegetable pit:
- It is necessary to carry out the marking of the site for the pit. This is conveniently done with a stretched cord and pegs.
- When the markup is ready, you can start land work. When determining the dimensions of the future pit, the thickness of the walls and floor should be taken into account in accordance with the chosen material for construction.
- The walls and floor must be covered with a layer of bitumen. This procedure is mandatory if the groundwater level is quite high. Bitumen will serve as an additional waterproofing layer.
- Now it's time to build the foundation. To do this, you need to level the surface of the bottom of the pit, then pour sand, evenly distribute it. After that, compress this layer until a thickness of 10 cm is obtained. Place gravel on top of the sand cushion, which also needs to be compacted.
- The concrete base must be reinforced with metal rods. This requires rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm. The intersections of the rods must be fastened with wire. The result should be metal grate with cells no more than 15 cm. This frame must be installed at a distance of 5 cm from the day of the pit. For this it is convenient to use fragments of bricks.
- Having installed the grid, you can start pouring concrete. It should be borne in mind that the mixture must completely cover the metal frame with a layer of at least 10 cm. Leave for 14 days to solidify.
- After the specified period, waterproofing works are carried out. Then proceed to the construction of the walls of the structure. For greater masonry strength, it is necessary to lay reinforcing material (mesh or wire) under each row of bricks. Continue building the walls to the level of the garage floor.
Ventilation pipes contribute to the long storage of vegetables
- Make a frame from a metal corner. The dimensions should match the top edge of the pit. Install this frame on top of the cellar. It will serve as the basis for the installation of ceiling boards. The top of the cellar can be left like this, but to create more capital construction need to work with concrete. Installed boards will serve as the basis for creating a concrete ceiling. To do this, it is necessary to carry out all the actions with a reinforcing lattice and pouring concrete. A place for a hatch should also be provided. Inside the pit, the top should be supported with logs. They will serve as temporary supports until concrete mix won't freeze. You also need to provide a hole in the ceiling of the pit for installing a ventilation pipe. For this, you can use any material. The most convenient option would be to use a plastic or asbestos-cement pipe.
Waterproofing device
The issue of isolating the inner surface of the cellar from moisture should be taken especially carefully. This is important, as the smallest hole in the waterproofing will become a source of dampness and cause spoilage of vegetables.
You can proceed to this stage only if the concrete is completely dry. You will need a waterproofing sheet or aquaizol. This material must cover the walls and floor of the vegetable pit. The canvas must be laid with an overlap of at least 15 cm. The joints are fixed with a blowtorch or double-sided tape. All actions with the lamp should be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the canvas, otherwise moisture will get inside the vegetable pit. The same materials cover the outer part of the ceiling of the pit.
How to insulate a cellar in a garage
Solving the issue of insulating the cellar in the garage is just as important as installing waterproofing. The insulation will help maintain a stable temperature inside the pit. For this you can use mineral wool or foam.
To install foam panels, plastic dowels "umbrellas" will be required. The installation process is as follows:
- With the help of a drill or a puncher, five holes are drilled in the plate attached to the wall (in the corners and in the middle of the material).
- Plastic dowels are hammered into them, into which self-tapping screws are twisted.
- The joints of the plates are filled with mounting foam.
In the northern regions, where the air temperature drops below 25–30ºС, it is also necessary to insulate the ceiling of the vegetable pit. So that over time the foam does not crumble, you can cover it with any finishing material. This will create an additional thermal insulation effect.
Video: how to make a dry pit, cellar, basement in the garage of the desired width
Making a viewing or vegetable pit in the garage with your own hands is not difficult at all. It is enough to listen to the recommendations of experts and follow step by step instructions. If desired, these two rooms can be combined.
For ease of implementation preventive work and car repair from a good owner, the garage is usually equipped with viewing hole. This is not surprising - the mentality of most of our men is such that almost every motorist prefers to control the condition of the car himself, and, if necessary, to repair it. Having invested in such an arrangement of the garage once, in the future you can save a decent amount on after-sales service, since to carry out such simple, but necessary procedures like oil change or bottom coating anti-corrosion compound, as well as a number of other works related to the bottom or suspension of the car, you can do it yourself.
However, it should be immediately noted that optimal location an inspection pit is considered to be a place under a canopy next to the garage, or in the garage, but next to the parking area, since wet vapors that accumulate between the bottom of the car and the bottom of the pit often contribute to the activation of corrosion processes. But, as you know, most often the place in the garage is limited, so the viewing hole is arranged in the middle part of the room. Based on this circumstance, it will be further considered how a viewing hole in the garage can be made with your own hands with the arrangement reliable waterproofing, ventilation and with the use of various materials for the construction of walls.
When and how to plan the construction of a viewing hole?
The best option would be to build a pit before the start of the construction of the walls of the garage, in the place planned for it, in parallel with the creation of the foundation and floor. It is clear that already finished building You may encounter a number of restrictions that greatly complicate the work.
For example, the same pit, arranged in an open area, can be dug quickly and accurately using special equipment. In the finished garage, it will have to be dug exclusively by hand, and this work is quite laborious, since it will be necessary not only to loosen, but also to extract several cubes of soil from a fairly large depth, and then organize its removal from the garage and further removal from the territory.
When planning the excavation of a pit, it is recommended to obtain information in advance about the location of groundwater at the construction site in order to protect the building from their penetration into the pit, otherwise it will become unsuitable for work, and over time it will begin to collapse. In this case, you will have to "save" the garage, bring soil and bury the hole. Therefore, it is best to think through all the nuances of its arrangement in advance and get all the information necessary for this, otherwise the work may be done in vain.
Materials for the construction of the pit
To build a viewing hole, you will need a lot of different materials that need to be purchased with a small margin. Usually professional builders advise to increase their number by 10÷15%.
So, to create a full-fledged viewing hole, you may need the following materials:
- Sand, gravel or gravel. Sand and gravel are needed for masonry or fill mortar, and crushed stone is required in addition to these materials to equip the pillow at the bottom of the pit. Cement is required for mixing all types of mortars.
- with a section of 30 × 30 or 40 × 40 mm, boards 25 mm or plywood 10 ÷ 15 mm thick - for the manufacture of formwork, and well-finished boards 40 ÷ 45 mm thick - for the pit cover.
- Reinforcing bar with a diameter of 6÷8 mm for knitting a reinforcing lattice when strengthening walls and floors.
- Waterproofing materials - dense polyethylene film, roofing material and mastic. For waterproofing can be used and more modern materials but they have a higher price.
- A metal corner measuring 50 × 50 mm for fixing the perimeter of the pit at floor level. Often, a wheel chipper is also made from a corner.
- Steel wire section 1.5÷2 mm - for twisting the reinforcing mesh.
- Plastic pipes with a diameter of 100 mm - for arranging the ventilation system of the pit.
- Brick or foam blocks, if it is planned to build pit walls from them.
Determining the size of the inspection hole
The work on planning and arranging a viewing hole usually begins with determining its size. All parameters are recommended to be fixed immediately, for further drafting of the project, in which it is necessary to show the location of the pit in the garage, its width, length and depth. These values primarily depend on the base of the car, that is, the distance between the wheels along the length and width of the car, as well as the height of the garage owner. The correct determination of these parameters is important for ensuring safety, and for comfortable work, and the convenience of putting the car in the garage.
- The width of the pit should be 300 ÷ 350 mm larger than the planned size of the inspection hole, and its finished width should be 200 mm smaller than the distance between the wheels of the car on the same axle (with a measurement between the inner surfaces of the tires). At the same time, the pit should be comfortable for a person to be inside it. When planning a viewing hole, you should not take the exact dimensions between the wheels of a particular passenger car, as, perhaps, over time, you will want to replace it with a new one. Therefore, it is recommended to take the average distance for various options car.
The generally accepted, most convenient pit parameter is a width of 800 ÷ 850 mm.
- The length of the pit can be different, and this already depends on the desire of the car owner, taking into account, of course, the length of the garage space. The standard length of the pit should be equal to the length of the car plus 1000 mm, but in some cases it is necessary to make it smaller. Therefore, this parameter can vary from 2000 to 6000 mm.
When making calculations, you also need to take into account the place for descending into the pit with the car standing in the garage. The descent must be equipped with an attached or stepped ladder. Usually a ladder is chosen, as it takes up much less space.
copper cable
- The depth of the pit is determined by the height of the garage owner. It should be such that a person, standing at the bottom, can freely reach any mechanism of the car that goes to its lower part and requires maintenance or repair.
It should be noted that it will be better if the pit is dug a little deeper than required, since the desired depth can be compensated by raising the floor, increasing its thickness. Usually the depth of the pit is equal to the height of the owner plus 100 ÷ 200 mm and is approximately 1800 ÷ 1900 mm.
In addition to the above parameters, when digging a pit, it is necessary to take into account the distance for waterproofing, masonry or pouring walls, as well as for backfilling clay around the viewing hole, the layer of which will become additional waterproofing. If the walls will be laid out of brick or poured with concrete, then the pit should be increased in width in each direction by 120 ÷ 150 mm, for gas silicate blocks by 200 mm, for arranging a concrete floor, the depth increases by 200 mm. If a drainage or waterproofing layer is arranged around the pit, then the pit increases in width by another 150 ÷ 170 mm.
As mentioned above, it is necessary to obtain information about the depth of groundwater. These data must be indicated in the report, which is given after site surveys before the construction of the garage.
The level of groundwater location plays an important role in the construction of any building, whether it is a residential building or a garage. If it passes higher than 2500 mm, then it is difficult to dig an inspection hole in the garage or make a cellar under the house, as they will be filled with water, even if high-quality waterproofing is done.
In some cases, there is a way out - in order to avoid this unpleasant situation, a drainage system is made along the perimeter of the entire pit to the height of its walls and underneath, which will help drain water into the sewer well.
Provided that the groundwater is located below the level indicated above, there are no restrictions for arranging a viewing hole.
Almost always, garage owners, when arranging a viewing hole, prefer to make niches in its walls, placing them in the upper or middle part of the side walls.
The depth and width of such "windows" must be calculated in such a way that it is convenient to put a tool in them during operation, from small to large enough. These niches must also be calculated and included in the building plan.
Work on the independent creation of a viewing hole in the garage
Marking a viewing hole and digging a pit
The marking of the inspection pit is carried out in different ways, since it can be equipped in an already finished garage or before its construction.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | It is easier to mark the location of the inspection pit in an already built room with a finished floor, but it will be more difficult to equip it. If you plan to make a viewing hole in an already built garage in which the floor is covered concrete screed, then marking is quite simple - measure the required distance from the walls, make marks and draw the outline of the future pit. But here it must be borne in mind that the distance between the walls of the future pit and the garage must be at least 1000 mm. |
 | When the markup is completed, the most difficult stages of work will begin. If the floor of the garage is wooden, then it is naturally easier to remove the coating: according to the marking, the boards are simply cut out and removed. It is much more difficult to get rid of a well-made screed, since it will need to be removed to the ground. This will require a jackhammer or at least a hammer drill and a grinder with a metal disc. First, concrete is broken according to the marking, and then the bars of the reinforcing structure are cut out with a grinder. |
 | In any case, the foundation pit for the inspection hole in the finished garage will have to be dug manually, since no earth-moving equipment will enter the room. This stage of work can be called the most time-consuming, since usually the standard size of the pit is 1800 × 1100 × 6000 mm, which is almost 12 cubic meters of earth. It is quite difficult to extract such a volume of soil alone, so it is best to have two or three assistants. |
 | The duration of this stage of excavation will depend on the activity of workers and on the composition of the soil. For work, you will need bayonet and shovel shovels, buckets for lifting soil from a depth, a wheelbarrow for its removal from the territory of the built or future garage. It should be noted that for difficult clay or rocky soils, another pickaxe or crowbar may be required. |
 | When determining the place where the soil will be taken out, it is necessary to take into account that in a loosened state it will take up space by 20–25% more than it occupied in a compacted form. The obvious advantages of this method of building a viewing hole can only be attributed to the fact that in the process of digging a pit it will not get wet in the rain, which means that work can be carried out at any time, without much regard for the established weather. |
 | If this excavation of a pit for a viewing hole is carried out in an open area, then in this case it will be more difficult to high precision markup, but it is much easier to carry out earthmoving work, as specialized equipment can be involved. The disadvantage of this method of digging a pit is that the hole will still have to be manually leveled, and also that it will not be protected by a roof. If it suddenly rains, especially prolonged ones, then after them you will have to wait a long time for the soil to dry out before continuing to work, and sometimes even resort to pumping out water using a drainage pump. Therefore, in case of a sharp change in the weather, it is necessary to prepare in advance the material or devices (for example, wooden shields covered with foil) with which you can close the pit on top, thereby protecting it from water ingress. |
 | If clay layers are found during digging, then it is recommended not to take this soil far, but to leave it near the garage or dump it next to the pit, since clay is best suited to fill the outer sinuses around the walls of the pit. |
 | Next, you should immediately think about ventilation. If it is led out through the wall or passes under the foundation of the garage, then a trench is dug for the ventilation pipes. |
Planning and arrangement of ventilation of the inspection pit
Despite the measures taken to protect the pit from moisture, over time, one way or another, an unpleasant smell of mustiness, gasoline and used engine oil may appear in it, so installing ventilation in it is simply a must. Equip it according to the same principle as the basement ventilation system.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | Installation work ventilation ducts are usually provided at the stage of digging a pit. The ventilation system can be common to the inspection pit and the garage, or it can be done individually for each of these rooms. |
 | The presented illustration diagram shows the principle of an integrated ventilation system. Air enters the inspection pit and the garage room through one supply pipe (pos. 1), which branches into two branch pipes - straight for the garage (pos. 2) and descending down for the inspection pit (pos. 3). The air outlet is also provided through one chimney (item 4) passing through the roof to the street and raised at least 500 mm above the roofing of the garage. This pipe also has two holes: one of them is located in the upper part of the inspection hole wall (pos. 6), and the other ventilation window placed under the ceiling of the garage (pos. 5) on the opposite wall from the air inlet. It must be said that such a scheme can be called the best option that work efficiently and do not lead to unnecessary costs. |
 | If it is planned to make a separate ventilation system for the inspection pit, then both holes are located on one of its sides or on opposite walls. In this case, the pipes can be brought out into the street not through the roof, but under the wall of the garage, through the foundation. |
 | The supply pipe rises about 500 mm above the ground and is closed from above with a protective grill or a special “pass-through” cover. The exhaust duct rises 2000÷2500 mm above ground level, and a metal umbrella is fixed on top of this pipe to prevent moisture and dirt from getting into it during wind and precipitation. |
 | The supply pipe will optimally be embedded in the ground from the outside of the inspection hole, and its lower edge should be drawn with a pipe through the thickness of the wall in its lower part. However, if space permits, the pipes can be left in the garage. In this case, they are mounted, fixed to the wall and removed through the ceiling and the roof of the building. |
 | If the channels are located on one wall of the inspection pit, then the supply pipe is lowered to the floor, and the hole for it is equipped at a distance of 100 ÷ 150 mm from it and must be covered with a protective grill. The exhaust channel opening is mounted 200÷250 mm below the upper edge of the inspection pit. Ventilation pipes are embedded in brickwork(or poured with concrete - if the walls of the pit are monolithic). From the inside of the viewing hole, they look like windows. |
 | For laying ventilation ducts, it is optimal to use plastic sewer pipes 100 mm in diameter. They are mounted on top of a waterproofing sheet laid around masonry walls or concrete formwork. |
 | After the work on the ventilation is completely completed, and the ends of the pipes are embedded in the walls of the pit, it is necessary to test the system for performance. The test itself is easy. It is necessary to carry a lit candle first to the hood - its flame should clearly deviate towards the exhaust channel. Then they check at the inlet, where the candle under strong air pressure can even go out at all. If the tests passed with such a result, then the ventilation system is equipped correctly and is fully operational. |
Arrangement of the floor and walls of the inspection pit
Now, having understood in general terms with questions of ventilation of the inspection hole, back to civil works- in the excavated pit, it's time to deal with the floor and walls.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | After digging a pit, the soil at its bottom must be very well compacted with a manual rammer. After that, gravel or medium-sized crushed stone is poured to the bottom of the pit and compacted again. In the compacted state, the thickness of this layer must be at least 100 mm. The next layer, 50 mm thick, is covered and compacted with sand, then the sandy “cushion” is covered with another five-centimeter layer of gravel. Some builders are limited to two layers of backfill - 100 mm sand and 100 mm gravel, which should also be compacted. Most often, the thickness of the layers and their sequence depends on the moisture content of the soil at the bottom of the pit. |
 | The next step is to cover the bottom and walls of the pit with waterproofing material. For this, dense polyethylene, roofing felt or one of the modern waterproofing membranes can be used. If sheets of roofing material are used, then they are overlapped one on top of the other by 120 ÷ 150 mm. And this overlapping strip is smeared with bituminous mastic, since the waterproofing layer must be airtight. |
 | The material is wrapped around the edges of the pit and secured with a load of stones or pipes. However, it should not be pulled strongly: the canvases should be located freely, since a screed will be poured at the bottom of the pit, which will inevitably pull the sheets down. Further, ventilation pipes are laid, as already mentioned above. |
 | The next step is to strengthen the entire bottom of the pit with a reinforced screed. To do this, a lattice is knitted from reinforcement with a diameter of 6 ÷ 7 mm using wire, which rises above the compacted rubble by 50 ÷ 70 mm - it can be installed on fragments of bricks, since their height is 60 mm. If necessary, make the screed thicker, a formwork for pouring concrete is mounted around the perimeter of the pit. |
 | The screed mortar is made from sand, gravel (fine gravel) and cement in proportions of 2: 4: 1 (more precisely, 1.9: 3.7: 1), based on the condition that M-400 grade cement is used. Usually, the concrete mortar for pouring the floor is prepared in a concrete mixer, then it turns out to be homogeneous and easier to work with. |
 | If the solution is kneaded by hand, it is recommended to add one of the plasticizers or liquid soap to it. Some masters recommend adding liquid glass to the solution, at the rate of 250 grams per 5 liters of concrete. This additive is recommended if high soil moisture was found in the lower part of the pit during excavation. |
 | The floor is poured with a ready-made solution in such a way that the concrete layer above the reinforcement grid is at least 40 ÷ 60 mm. The poured concrete is well leveled with the help of the rule. Thus, the screed will have to be done in two stages - first, most of the floor area is poured, and when it seizes and it will be possible to stand on its surface, the work is brought to an end. The screed should dry and gain primary strength in 3-4 days. Only after this time has elapsed can further work be carried out. During the initial maturation period, it is recommended to moisten the concrete surface daily with water - this way the screed will become more monolithic and stronger. |
 | Walls can be built from different materials- they can be removed from piece material- bricks or blocks, or be made monolithic, that is, poured from concrete. The next steps depend on which method is chosen. When choosing a method for erecting walls made of bricks or gas silicate blocks, masonry is carried out along the perimeter of the concrete floor, reinforcing it after 2–3 rows with a wire mesh. Between the walls covered with waterproofing and bricks, there should be a gap of 100 ÷ 120 mm, which will later be covered with soil mixed with clay, and then compacted. |
 | Masonry can be done in half or quarter bricks. The solution for it is made from sifted sand and cement, taken in a ratio of 1: 3. If a red brick is chosen for work, then before erecting a wall, it is recommended to soak it in water for 15 ÷ 30 minutes so that it does not absorb moisture from the solution, and the solution dries naturally. For evenness of masonry, use as a guide taut rope, and when it is performed, it is necessary to check horizontality and verticality using the building level. |
 | In addition, niches are immediately planned and formed for convenient accommodation tools for repair work. To do this, the brick in a certain place is shifted ½ of its thickness outward, or it is embedded in the brickwork metal box, which can extend beyond the thickness of the wall, creating a niche deep enough for tools or installing fixtures. |
 | After the walls are raised, canvases are wrapped on them waterproofing material, leaving free space between them and the soil walls of the pit. In the next step, the resulting gap is gradually filled with clay mixed with soil, while every 150 ÷ 200 mm of the poured mixture is moistened and carefully compacted. |
 | If you plan to build concrete walls, then you need to build a formwork for them. It can also be installed in different ways. In the first version, it bends from the walls of the pit waterproofing film and stacked on a cemented floor. Along the perimeter of the pit, a formwork wall is installed, knocked down from boards or plywood (OSB) with a thickness of at least 10 mm. Then, on wooden walls the film rises, here it is necessary to prevent concrete from flowing through the gaps formed between the boards. |
 | Further, along the waterproofed outer surface of the formwork, a reinforcing mesh with 150 × 150 mm cells is mounted. You can use ready-made mesh cards, or tie them from reinforcing bars with a diameter of 7 ÷ 8 mm, fixing them together with a wire twist. |
 | It should be noted here that, choosing this option for erecting walls, reinforcing the floors under the screed, and then arranging it, can be carried out simultaneously with the reinforcement of future walls. In this case, the floor is first poured, and then the second, inner wall of the formwork is installed, which can be made from plywood (OSB sheets) or boards. |
 | Thanks to plywood (OSB) formwork, the walls will be guaranteed smooth, and the concrete will not be large volume seep between joints. In order for the concrete to be evenly distributed inside the formwork, it is not necessary to immediately raise its inner wall to the top. Filling is usually carried out in tiers. To begin with, it is enough to erect a formwork with a height of 500 ÷ 700 mm around the entire perimeter, and strengthen the opposite walls, in order to avoid their deformation under the weight of the raw mortar, with spacers. |
 | Then, concrete mortar is poured into the formwork. After setting this tier, another superstructure of the inner wall of the formwork is erected, which, in turn, is also poured with concrete. And so it continues to the very top. |
 | In the second option, the waterproofing film remains on the walls, and along it, with an indent of 50 ÷ 70 mm, a reinforcing mesh is mounted, that is, the excavation wall covered with waterproofing acts as the outer side of the formwork. After that, the first tier of the inner wall of the formwork is erected along the entire perimeter of the pit, which is poured with mortar. Then it is built up and poured again, and so the work continues to the top. Formwork can be removed no earlier than two weeks after the last concrete pour. The disadvantage of this manufacturing option is the higher consumption of concrete solution. |
 | To form niches for tools, a reinforced recess is made in the wall, and closed from the outside with plywood, that is, concrete will be poured into the formwork around the recess without getting inside. After the concrete hardens, the formwork is removed and the niche is cultivated with concrete mortar. In this case, a metal box can also be used to equip niches. It is fixed to the reinforcing grid by welding or wire, depending on the thickness of the steel sheet used to make the box. |
 | Cast reinforced concrete walls must be left to dry and cure for approximately two weeks. After that, the formwork is removed. If you plan to finish the walls, for example, ceramic tiles, then the concrete is left to ripen for another one and a half to two weeks. However, most often the walls remain concrete, in which case it is recommended to cover them with a special deep penetration hardening primer. Such compounds penetrate into the thickness of concrete, filling all its pores and microcracks, protecting it from moisture, preventing dusting, erosion and destruction. |
 | In addition, after pouring and leveling concrete in the formwork along the top of the walls, it is recommended to fix metal corners on studs (150 ÷ 200 mm long) along their edge. The studs are immersed in the solution through the holes drilled in the corners, and so that they do not pull it with them, metal strips are perpendicularly placed under the edge from the corner, the edges of which will lie on top of the formwork walls. |
 | The corners will serve as a limiter for the pit, a stand for laying the boards covering the pit, as well as a wheel chipper, which will prevent the wheels from entering the dangerous area. In order for this element framing the pit to fulfill its functions, it must be raised above the level of the main surface of the garage floor by about 50 ÷ 70 mm. |
 | After removing the formwork, the gap between the built and the soil wall is backfilled, if it remains. To do this, the mixture of clay and soil, after filling it into the space between the walls, is well compacted and reinforced, since a floor screed will be arranged on top of it. |
 | The design and material of manufacture of stairs for descending into the pit may be different. But whichever option is chosen, securely fastening this element to the wall and floor is a prerequisite. |
 | To close the viewing hole from above, ordinary separate boards or assembled into shields are most often used. There are more interesting options, for example, when the boards are freely fastened together with a strong waterproof rope. This approach is convenient in all respects - such a “mobile” cover quickly folds and unfolds in a frame from a corner, so you don’t have to pick up and stack each of the boards separately. |
There are special requirements for floors in the garage
It is important that the coating is durable, wear-resistant, and not afraid of exposure to fuels and lubricants or other aggressive technical fluids. Detailed information about how to do it right, and what coverage to choose for it, you can get in a special article on our portal.
As a "bonus" below is a calculator that will help you quickly and accurately determine the required amount of M300 grade concrete for pouring a garage floor. In the options of this mini-application, it is possible to take into account the amount of mortar that is required if the walls of the pit are also poured from concrete.
If we are talking only about the pit, without taking into account the garage floor (for example, the screed has already been poured earlier), then in the first group of input fields, you can specify not the length and width of the garage, but the corresponding parameters of the pit itself. In this case, the calculation will be made only for the screed on the floor of the pit, which will be required in any case.
You can also take into account the entrance ramp in the calculations, if it is also planned to be concrete - when choosing this calculation path, additional fields for entering the relevant data will open.
The final result will be given, first of all, in the total volume of concrete mortar - this is convenient if it is ordered at a specialized enterprise. And for those who are going to make a solution on their own, the amount is given necessary ingredients. Moreover, it will be shown both in weight and volume measurements, since various trade organizations can sell, for example, sand or gravel both by weight and by cubic meters.
