Garage viewing hole. The size of the viewing hole. How to make a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands. How to properly waterproof a pit in a garage

March 24th, 2016 Admin

Car repair is often associated with an extensive range of works. In some cases, access to components and assemblies is possible only from below, which cannot be done without a lift or viewing hole. The first, due to its high cost and high energy consumption, is used in car services, but the second is quite possible to do in your own garage.

The presence of a pit will greatly facilitate the repair and maintenance of the machine, but to make it, you will have to work hard. Today we will tell you about how you can independently equip a viewing hole.

How to make a viewing hole in the garage

First you will need to take a few preliminary steps:

1) Find and study documents about what type of soil is in the area of \u200b\u200byour garage, how deep it freezes, at what depth groundwater is located, etc. These data will greatly affect the configuration of your pit (depth and degree of waterproofing);

2) Compose detailed drawing indicating the size of the pit and its location relative to the walls of the garage;

3) Determine the necessary Construction Materials, buy them and bring them to the right place, the same goes for tools.

Designing a viewing hole for a garage

At the stage of drawing up the drawing, it is important to decide where exactly the pit will be:

In the center of the garage, if it contains only a car and items necessary for it, such as operating fluids, spare tires, etc .;
Closer to one of the walls, if the garage is also a storage of various household items, i.e. also used as a shed. But remember, you can’t place the pit too close to the wall, otherwise it may collapse!

Don't forget to also provide a plank floor for the pit to cover it when not in use.

What should be the size of the inspection hole for a car

1) The length must match that of the car with an increase of 1 m, which is needed to equip the steps;

2) The width again depends on the width of the car, but it is not advisable to make it more than 80 cm;

3) Depth should be done based on your height. At the same time, it should be taken into account that you, standing in the pit, should have 15 cm above your head - this is a comfortable distance that allows you not to reach for the bottom of the car, but to calmly reach it.

Having calculated all the dimensions, outline the contours of the future pit on the garage floor and get down to business.

What you need to dig a trench under a viewing hole

At this stage, you will need a shovel and probably a drill. The latter is needed if the soil is stony and cannot be taken with a shovel. The selected soil can be used for agricultural purposes by moving fertile soil garden (if you have one). Clay and stones are best put in a separate pile - they will come in handy if you need components for concrete. They can also be used to raise the floor of the garage.

In the process of digging a pit, do not forget that the edges of the pit should be at least 50 cm (this is necessary to create walls), and the depth margin should be made in the amount of 30 cm (for waterproofing), and do not forget to make an allowance for floor for the pit, the thickness of which is determined by yourself.

We build the walls of the observation pit

Before erecting walls, it is necessary to make a flat floor. The best way- this is concrete screed, but asphalt can also be used.

At the viewing hole without fail there must be walls, otherwise it will inevitably begin to crumble. There are quite a few options for creating walls, the most common of them are discussed below:

1) The simplest option is to use roofing material or foil isol, on top of which there will be a number of boards “painted” by mining (this slows down the decay process) or slate, but not wavy, but flat.

2) You can plaster the wall by throwing a rough "fur coat" on metal mesh, and after it dries, remove smooth walls by using new portion solution.

3) If you are determined to build a truly durable structure, and the size of your garage allows you to do this, then it is better to build walls from brick.

The optimal wall thickness is 0.5 or 1 brick. Ideally, they should be new, but if the budget is limited, you can use used ones. The main thing is that they are even and not burnt. If the bricks are old, they must be cleaned of dirt. It is better to choose a classic masonry mortar, consisting of cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 3. If you are a beginner, it is better to add liquid soap or more water. The solution will become thinner and take longer to set, giving you large stock time for laying and correcting flaws.

Naturally, the walls must be made even. To do this, before laying, pull the lace. For control during the masonry process, use a plumb line or building level.
If desired, small niches can be built in brick walls. During repairs, it will be convenient to put tools, spare parts and other small things in them.

Whatever method of erecting walls you choose, they must be strengthened with strapping so that the structure is strong and cannot collapse. Perfect for this purpose steel corner 50×50×5 mm. It is necessary to weld a contour from it, and in such a way that, on top, it is possible to easily lay the cover from the boards, which was mentioned above.

The finished masonry can be left in its original form or plastered, and then painted in any color. In addition, the floor for warmth can be covered wooden deck.
If you are a resident of the Far North, it is important to take care of thermal insulation. As a heater, it is better to use 5 cm polystyrene foam. Despite the small volume, this material has excellent heat-insulating properties.

What to do if groundwater is close?

As mentioned above, when digging a hole, it is extremely important to know where the groundwater begins. If it was not possible to find the relevant documents, you will have to drill a well or dig a hole. Water appeared already at a depth of 2 m.? Then you can’t do without waterproofing, otherwise in the spring your pit will turn into a mini-pond with melt water. Moreover, it is necessary to do waterproofing, strictly before the start of pouring the floor and erecting walls.

How to choose waterproofing material

AT this moment The most widely used are 3 types of waterproofing:

polymer membranes.

Considered the most reliable material. The service life is unlimited. In view of such outstanding qualities, the material is very expensive, and not every car owner will be able to overpower his purchase. In addition, its application requires special equipment, which can only be used by specialists. Because of these factors, we will not consider it in detail;

Roll materials based on bitumen (roofing material, rubemast, foilsol, brizol, etc.).

Have affordable price and very easy to use - no special knowledge is required. But the service life of such waterproofing is limited - 10, maximum 15 years, after which it must be completely changed.

Penetrating waterproofing.

Very effective way prevent water ingress. More expensive than roll materials, but it has an unlimited lifespan.

Waterproofing a viewing hole in the garage: stages of implementation

Waterproofing should start from the floor. First, compact the surface tightly, then pour an even layer of clay on it, sand on the clay, and gravel on it. Pack each layer carefully. The total thickness of all these layers should be 30 cm.

Roll-bitumen materials

Before laying them, a special primer (deep penetration) in 2 layers must be applied to the surface. Each of them must dry completely before applying a new or laying roofing material.

Rolled waterproofing will be most correctly laid in U-shaped strips, giving an overlap of 20 cm. The corners must be turned so that the strips remain on a flat section of the floor or wall.

The joints are glued with molten bitumen, but you can also use a bitumen solvent, which will melt the roofing material and it will seize. Take the excess strip along the steps outside the pit - cut it off later. After the 1st layer (along and across), let the bitumen at the joints cool down, and proceed to layer No. 2. In the process, make sure that the joints of the layers do not coincide with each other.

Penetrating waterproofing

This type of waterproofing is a dry mix that is diluted with water before use. To prepare a solution, per 1 kg. the mixture requires about 0.3 liters. water.

It is very important to mix the mixture thoroughly so that no lumps remain. Then the solution is applied to the wall with a 1 mm layer. If the walls near the pit are brick, then you need to apply another layer on finished wall to securely plug all the pores in the bricks. The principle of operation of the sealant is based on the fact that, covering the surface with a continuous layer, it does not allow moisture to seep out, as if “binding” it.

Together with waterproof brick wall It can withstand water pressure up to 20 atm. Its service life is not limited.

How to ventilate a viewing hole in a garage

The ventilation system in the pit is a thing that is absolutely impossible to do without.

This is especially true for motorists whose "iron horses" work on liquefied gas, since when leaking, propane tends to go down (it is heavier than air), which means that it will inevitably fall into the pit.

The hood is built before the waterproofing stage, so as not to damage the sealant or roofing material. Proper ventilation consists of 2 parts - supply and exhaust.

The first is a pipe led through the wall to the street. Through it will fall into the pit fresh air. The second is also a pipe installed opposite the flow pipe, but it is not led out through the wall, but through the roof. Its upper end should rise above the garage by no more than a meter. Pipes can be either steel or plastic, but it is better to give preference to plastic products - they weigh much less, are easier to install and are completely non-corrosive.

Lighting a viewing hole in the garage - how to hold the light

To work in viewing hole it is possible without stationary light sources, limited only to a headlamp. However, it gives little light and only in a limited sector. Therefore, it is still better to get normal lighting. As with any wiring, it is important to follow a number of rules:

1) If you do not have the appropriate education, it is better to entrust the work of creating an electrical circuit to a specialist so that he does it in compliance with all safety standards;

2) Lighting should be uniform, you may need several lights;

3) All switches, fuses and sockets should not be located in the pit - only in the garage itself;

4) If you plan to install a 3-phase outlet, be sure to ground it securely.

The wire through which electricity will be supplied to the pit must have a cross section of 4 mm2 or more. It is desirable that the material from which it is made is copper. The wire should be with intact insulation, ideally double.

Lamps suitable for garage lighting are low and high voltage:

12 volt bulbs;
lamps for 36 volts;
lamps of various classes for 220 volts.

To operate low-voltage lamps, a step-down transformer must be installed next to the meter.

As for the type of lamps, it is better to use lamps in the pit itself daylight. Due to their oblong shape, it is advisable to place them in small recesses in the walls, otherwise they may interfere. It is better to purchase such lamps with a protective casing, since an open lamp will not last long due to moisture and pollution.

Incandescent lamps in the pit should not be used. They heat up during operation, and if you touch them, it is easy to burn yourself. The light from them is too bright, which harms vision. In addition, they consume a lot of energy, and if there is a voltage drop, they can spark and burst, which is fraught with injury and fire.

Fluorescent bulbs are good because they have a wide variation in color, use little electricity, and last a long time. However, they are not suitable for a pit, because they are sensitive to cold - when the temperature environment falls below 5 degrees, they become unreliable. They must be disposed of in a special way, since they contain mercury.

Energy-saving lamps have all the advantages of fluorescent and an almost complete absence of disadvantages, with the exception of more high price and difficult disposal: they also contain mercury.

LED lamps are the most perfect, because they combine everything positive characteristics other light bulbs. There is no mercury in them, but the price is very high, and for good lighting they need several pieces, which not everyone can afford.

Also in the garage it is useful to have a carrier lamp or a mobile 36-volt lamp. They can come in handy if you need to consider the place of repair better.

When wiring and lighting fixtures follow the rules strictly fire safety! Remember, any shortcomings in this matter can turn into a tragedy.

The construction of a viewing hole is justified for every car owner. The presence of a hole allows Maintenance, maintenance, monitor the condition of the suspension and running gear vehicle without extra costs. When planning the construction of a structure, it is important to choose the right dimensions for the inspection pit in the garage, the materials for its construction, evaluate the scope of work and consider the waterproofing of the walls. Work on the construction of the structure can be performed both in the process and after the completion of the construction of the garage. The main advantage for the car is to provide the car owner with a higher level of comfort when performing car maintenance.

For the construction of the observation room is used silicate brick, concrete blocks or monolithic reinforced concrete structures.

Advice! When choosing a brick, it is worth giving preference ceramic products. They are not afraid of moisture and have sufficient strength. The use of bricks is recommended on dry and dense soils.

The walls are laid out in brick or half-brick thickness. At different options masonry wall thickness goes from 12 to 25 cm. The thickness value will be needed when marking the pit. If soil is observed high level groundwater, for the construction of walls it is better to use reinforced concrete or concrete blocks. Don't forget about! If there are blocks of a different type available, they will need high-quality waterproofing to avoid spillage of material.

At adverse conditions soil the best option would be concrete. To fill the walls, the M250 brand is used, and for the floor - M200. The use of concrete below grade M250 can lead to deformation of the walls under heaving loads. To protect against heaving, you can make a blind area or perform concrete reinforcement. Concrete walls are usually from 15 cm and require additional reinforcement. To obtain a margin of safety, a metal mesh or a frame of reinforcement is used.

What should be considered when choosing the size of the viewing hole?

The choice of the size of the viewing hole in the garage is influenced not only by the dimensions of the car, but also by the height of the person. Sometimes a universal pit width is required, especially when the car owner changes his vehicle frequently. In this case, optimal width there will be a value from 70 to 80 cm, and the depth of the viewing hole in the garage should correspond to the growth of its owner.

Inspection pit drawing (click to enlarge)

When choosing a recess distance for repair passenger car, about 15 cm is added to the growth of the garage owner. The length of the pit is selected according to the average length of the body with a margin of 70-80 cm to ensure free entry and exit from under the car. For example, with a vehicle length of 3.5 m, the length of the pit should be at least 4.2 m. When choosing the size of an inspection pit for commercial purposes, it is better to be guided by special normative documents, which spell out what the design should be, its standards and operating rules.

Attention! Possible opening device L-shaped. Of course, this circumstance will complicate the construction work, but it will be much more convenient to work. The protrusion is usually used for step equipment.

Construction of a viewing hole

The observation pit is a semi-basement, so it should provide full lighting and ventilation. After the size of the pit in the garage is selected and the materials are prepared, you can start building.

Important! During the installation of the formwork, niches must be provided for holding electrical wires and placement of technical capacities.

Stages of work

1. Digging a pit. Depth and width is selected taking into account the concrete screed;

2. The erection of the frame provides for double concrete walls, between which there will be a waterproofing layer (aquaizol, butyl rubber or other hydrophobic materials or membranes). Canvases with waterproof properties are lined in a pit with a release of 15 cm from each edge. The materials covering the ditch are overlapped and glued with double-sided tape.

3. Internal waterproofing. The stage involves applying a coating waterproof solution to all surfaces of the pit. It is recommended to treat surfaces in several layers. Instead of coating waterproofing deep penetration primer is allowed. As a result of applying solutions, the hygroscopicity of concrete is significantly reduced.

4. To strengthen the edges, a fixing frame is installed, a steel mesh is laid around the perimeter of the pit in order to protect the walls from soil shedding. Also, installation work is underway. ventilation system, two pipes are installed: exhaust and supply;

5. A pit is made, the floor is covered with gravel and sand. The sand is soaked and compacted.

6. From laminated plywood(3000x1500x18 mm) formwork is being built;

7. The concrete mixture is poured onto the floor and into the pit;

9. Installation in progress steel mesh for preparation for pouring the main layer of concrete;

10. A metal container with a special device for controlling the inflow of underground water is installed in the pit;

11. Concrete is poured and walls are insulated;

12. After completion of the formwork installation, the floor in the garage is covered with sand and compacted;

13. Works on waterproofing and strengthening the floor surface in the garage room;

14. The screed is poured;

15. A steel support corner is mounted at the corners of the room;

Completion of construction

At professional approach The completion of all the above works takes approximately 1-2 days. At the final stage, it is necessary to close the prepared pit in the brick garage with a wooden deck supported by metal corners. It is better to take a board thicker (50mm), such a flooring will last a long time and be able to withstand significant loads.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that the construction of a viewing hole is troublesome, but justified. Having a personal inspection hole, you can save a lot on trips to specialized service centres. The main condition for obtaining robust design, it remains to comply with the rules for performing waterproofing work and right choice sizes.

With a high level of groundwater (more than 2.5 m), it is better not to build a pit, since it will inevitably contain high humidity, which will adversely affect the car, contributing to the formation of corrosion on metal elements. In such a situation, only the construction of a recumbent version of the observation structure is appropriate.

Each motorist can provide himself with comfort when diagnosing and repairing his car. Do-it-yourself inspection hole in the garage will solve this problem. It is easier to arrange a viewing hole during the construction of the garage itself.

Determination of location and size

Before the beginning construction works should be made geological surveys. From them you can find out the location of groundwater passing under the garage. This affects the size and depth of the hole.

The dimensions of the inspection hole in the garage should be optimally selected. You should not allocate a lot of space for it, but it should be comfortable when working in it.

If the garage is planned to be used only for storing a car in it, then it is convenient to place the viewing hole in the center. If you want to use this room as a small workshop, it is better to place it closer to one of the walls.

The width of the inspection hole in the garage depends on the type of car. The main role will be played by the distance between the wheels. For modern cars the standard is a pit having a width of 75-80 cm. The choice of length depends on the specific model. Usually it is 4-5 meters. If you plan to make a ladder for descent, then you should add one more meter.

The depth of the inspection hole in the garage depends on the height of the owner of the car. It should be 25-30 cm larger than it. This position will reduce fatigue during work, since the arms will be in a bent position. Having decided on the parameters, you can begin to draw up a drawing.

When determining the dimensions, you should leave an "allowance" for the thickness of the walls and floor.

Do-it-yourself inspection hole in the garage

Do-it-yourself pit for a car involves the acquisition before construction necessary materials. The most commonly used are concrete and brick.

To reinforce the walls, it is necessary to purchase a metal mesh, steel bars and corners. When pouring concrete, you will need cement, gravel and sand. Waterproofing will require the purchase sheet materials such as isolon and roofing felt, and ventilation - pipes and gratings.

Necessary tools for work:

shovel;
welding machine;
roulette;
level;
concrete mixer;
a hammer;
bucket;
Screwdriver Set;
pliers;
Master OK;
Circular Saw;
electric drill;
grater for leveling;
rule;
self-tapping screws;

Correctly we make a hole in the garage with our own hands - you need to start by transferring the drawing on a scale to the prepared place. Then comes the turn of digging a pit. If the inspection hole is made before the walls of the garage are built, then an excavator can be used, otherwise you will have to dig by hand.

The bottom of the dug hole should be cleaned and begin to equip the floor in the hole. At the bottom it is necessary to pour a layer of crushed stone 10 cm thick and carefully compact it. Pour a layer of sand on top, half the height, and also tamp. Then lay down waterproofing film on which to install the reinforcing frame. From above, pour it with M200 concrete into a pre-built formwork. The minimum thickness of the concrete layer is 5 cm. Now you have to wait a few days for the concrete to dry completely.

Wall construction

When arranging a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands, one of the main stages is the construction of walls. First, make the formwork. It is convenient to make it from sheet material.

Strengthen the shields on the outside with bars so that under the pressure of the weight of concrete they do not begin to sag. Then install the inner shields in such a way that the distance to the outer ones is at least 15 cm. Place spacers between them.

Before you fill the hole in the garage with concrete, it is advisable to lay a frame of reinforcement. The diameter of the rods should be about 6-8 mm. Grids should be installed so that they are in the middle between the outer and inside formwork. At the corners, tie the reinforcement bars with knitting wire. To do this, use a special crochet hook.

Reinforcement of the pit in the garage will give it the necessary strength. When the formwork is fully assembled, pour it with concrete. Filling should be done in layers, compacting each layer with bayonet shovel. Remove the formwork a few days after the concrete has completely dried. Pour earth into the resulting gaps, carefully tamp each layer.

Concrete pouring should be carried out in one day.

Expose the dried walls finishing. It includes plaster, tiling or gypsum fiber.

Observation pit made of bricks

It is convenient to make a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands from bricks.

Start laying bricks from the corners on top of the waterproofing sheet. The horizontal laying of the bottom row is controlled using a level. In order to strengthen the structure, a metal mesh should be laid every two rows. Prepare a mortar for bonding bricks from cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 3. The verticality of the walls during their construction is controlled with a plumb line.

Lay out the walls of the inspection pit to the level provided for by the project. Install a metal frame from the corner on the top row. To fix the frame to its side, weld anchor reinforcement, the other end of which is included in the floor concrete body.

After complete drying, you can overlay brick walls decorative tiles. A feature of a brick inspection pit is that niches for tools can be made in the wall, which makes repairs in the garage inspection pit more convenient. Filling the floor with concrete is done after the construction of brick walls.

For the safety of the car entering the garage, wheel guards should be installed, which will prevent the car from accidentally driving into the inspection hole. They constitute a barrier metal profile, which is installed slightly above the floor.

Ventilation

It is desirable to supplement the device of the inspection pit in the garage with ventilation, since due to the temperature difference, the humidity becomes increased. The resulting condensation deposits on the underbody of the vehicle, which can lead to rust formation.

Ventilation can be natural or forced. Most commonly used natural way. The exhaust channel is made of a plastic or asbestos-cement pipe at a distance of 10-15 cm from the floor. To connect pipes, a swivel elbow made of metal is used. Further, the withdrawal is performed using metal pipe with a diameter of 10-12 cm. The second rotary knee is installed at the exit to the street. Possible connection with ventilation pipe garage.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing the inspection hole in the garage prevents moisture. Materials for waterproofing can serve:

bitumen;
polymeric membranes;
liquid rubber.

They differ in their characteristics and cost.

Bitumen materials are sold in rolls, which allows them to be used in the most hard-to-reach places. Before use, the roll must be lubricated with a solvent. The cut sheets are overlapped. Most popular view- ruberoid.

Application polymer materials involves welding. Advantages include resistance to mechanical influences and unlimited service life. Liquid rubber applied to surfaces that have previously been specially moistened. After spraying, several hours must pass for the applied material to harden.

Penetrating waterproofing is often used. The working solution is obtained by combining a special mixture with water. Then it is applied to the pre-moistened floor and walls of the inspection pit. Crystallization occurs, due to which the pores in the concrete are clogged.

holding lighting

A prerequisite for comfort when using a viewing hole is the presence of lighting in it. According to the rules, it is unacceptable to use 220 V incandescent lamps when arranging lighting in pits for repairs. Light sources with lamps having a voltage of not more than 36 V are acceptable, for which a step-down transformer has to be used to power them. Lighting equipment must be reliable protection from moisture.

AT garage pit can be installed:

fluorescent lamps;
rechargeable lamps.

A good solution would be to install fluorescent lamps in a waterproof housing that consume not a large number of electricity. The use of LEDs has a high level of safety.

Installation of sockets and switches is prohibited in the inspection pit.

In order to increase the efficiency of lighting, you can trim the walls of the pit with reflective material, such as foil.

Pit cover

At the end of construction, the question arises - how to close the hole in the garage. The cover covering the inspection hole serves as an additional layer of waterproofing. In its absence, evaporated moisture will constantly settle at the bottom of the body when the car is in the garage, sometimes for a long time.

The cover for the viewing hole in the garage is made of sheets of metal or boards. Wood is an inexpensive and not heavy material. Replacing a failed board will not great work. It is desirable to use boards from hard rock tree. Before use, they should be soaked with antifungal drugs and an antiseptic. Install boards in metal corners fixed at the top of the pit.

An inspection hole in the garage is an invariable attribute for a car owner who independently maintains his own car. Therefore, the construction of a garage often begins with the arrangement of the pit. How to build it according to all the rules?

General rules for the performance of work

Digging a hole in the garage is half the battle, because it should be comfortable for work. To do this, you should take into account some of the nuances during construction:

It is important to pay attention interior decoration walls, it should be done so that groundwater does not penetrate into the pit. Often, for this, internal waterproofing is installed under the finish.
The material for the floor of the pit should not be slippery, as oil and other automotive fluids are often spilled on it.
When calculating the size of the inspection hole, the size of the entire garage and the car itself should be taken into account.
For comfortable work, you should take care of the lighting. Used frequently portable equipment, which is attached to one of the walls.
If necessary, the pit should be closed, so it is worth considering what material to make the coating from, it must be strong enough and stable.

All the nuances of construction should be thought out even before it starts, and only after that start work.

Pit marking

The width of the inspection pit should be 70-80 cm, this will be enough for the track of an average car and there will even be room between the wheel and the pit for maneuvering.
The length of the pit is determined by its own convenience, as well as the size of the garage. This parameter has nothing to do with the size of the car. Standard length is about 2 meters.
The depth of the viewing hole is determined from your own height - standing on tiptoe or bending your knees, you won’t be able to do much. That's why the best option a distance of 25-30 cm between the head and the bottom of the car is considered. For example, with a height of 180 cm and a car clearance of 16 cm, the depth of the pit should be 170 cm.

By observing these parameters, you can build a pit in which it will be comfortable to work.

Excavation

Digging a hole is considered one of the most time-consuming activities in the arrangement of the garage. In this case, it will be necessary to dig out approximately 9 cubic meters of earth. If you do not want to do it yourself, you can hire workers. It is important to make markings with pegs for orientation in size.

Earthworks are carried out as follows:

when digging a hole, part of the earth (about half) must be left to fill the sinuses that will appear during construction, the rest can be taken out;
it is important to level the floor with building level so that the depth of the pit is uniform;
then a layer of rubble about 5 cm high is poured onto the floor, it must be rammed into the ground;
at this stage, it is possible to arrange niches in the walls for storing tools and other necessary things.

The future convenience of the pit and its functionality depend on the correct execution of earthworks.

Pit wall equipment

For the construction of walls, there are two common materials - monolithic concrete and brick. Experienced Builders recommend paying attention to concrete, it also performs the function internal waterproofing and its cost is much less.

The work is carried out as follows:

To prepare a concrete mix for one cubic meter of wall, you will need 300 kg of cement, 680 kg river sand, 120 l of water, 1200 kg of fine crushed stone. To prepare a homogeneous mixture, it is important to use a concrete mixer, since it is quite difficult to mix such a quantity of materials on your own.
The size of the viewing hole should be calculated taking into account the pouring of walls, the thickness of which is about 5 cm.
Mesh is often used as reinforcement.
To fill the walls, you need to build a formwork from OSB, which can then be used for sheathing gates, assembling racks and shelves.
After pouring, the concrete must dry for 14 days, after which you can proceed to other work.

The formation of concrete walls is painstaking work which is not in a hurry.

Pit floor arrangement

Like the walls, the floor is also formed using a concrete solution. In this case, the following nuances should be taken into account:

It is important to make a substrate before pouring the floor. To do this, a layer of sand 5 cm thick is poured onto the rubble and carefully compacted.
Then, as in the formation of walls, reinforcement is laid, the role of which is played by the construction mesh.
Concrete is poured onto the grid, the layer of which is 5 cm.
Using the building level, the floor is leveled while the solution is still liquid.
It takes 2 weeks for the floor to harden, and it is important to periodically moisten the surface with water to avoid cracking.

When arranging the floor of the inspection hole with your own hands, you should take into account the level of groundwater. With their close location, more attention should be paid to waterproofing.

Pit lighting

For comfortable work in the pit, lighting should be provided. often its role is played by a portable lamp, which, if necessary, can be hung anywhere. Also, lighting can be made stationary; for this, niches for lighting fixtures should be provided at the stage of excavation. The number of fixtures is significantly affected by the size of the viewing hole.

The fastening of the wire that stretches to the portable lamp must be carried out using clamps. If it is not fixed, then it can interfere during work in the pit. In addition, you can purchase a portable tripod, with which you can direct the light in the right direction.

Formation of steps

The entrance to the viewing hole is most often carried out using steps. They can be built from wooden planks or poured from concrete mortar. Optimal quantity steps - 6-8, the height between which is about 20-25 cm. At the same time, the lower step is made lower and wider than the others for a comfortable descent.

For the construction of steps is done wooden formwork, between which rods for reinforcement are fixed. The composition of concrete for the construction of stairs repeats the solution for walls and floors. Since the width and depth of the steps are quite significant, the filling takes place in several stages. It is important that the previous layer of concrete has time to dry completely.

Many, when arranging a garage with their own hands, instead of building steps, prefer to use an ordinary portable wooden stairs. This option is very convenient if the dimensions of the inspection pit, or rather its length, are insufficient to accommodate a stationary ladder.

Waterproofing

When arranging a garage with your own hands, great attention should be paid to waterproofing, especially if groundwater is located nearby. It is carried out as follows:

the waterproofing film is laid on the entire surface of the floor with an overlap on the walls of about 15 cm, while it is important not to damage its integrity;
only after that you can start concreting the floor;
with a close occurrence of groundwater instead of sand cushion you can use well-packed greasy clay;
experienced builders recommend adding water-repellent additives when mixing concrete mortar, which will prevent the destruction of walls and floors under the influence of moisture.

Waterproofing must be of high quality, therefore, when choosing materials, special attention should be paid to their characteristics.

Conclusion

The work that is carried out in the pit must be safe for humans, so some recommendations should be followed:

When working on unstable ground, Special attention give to strengthening the walls, otherwise in the future they may collapse at the most inopportune moment. Instability will be noticeable even at the stage of digging a hole - the earth will crumble, sag or crack.
The work must be carried out using personal protection- work boots, durable gloves. When using a grinder, welding machine or a jackhammer, goggles should be worn to prevent damage to the eyes from flying particles of metal, soil, stones or dust.

If follow detailed instructions, there is nothing complicated in arranging a pit. For the convenience of performing work, there should be two people. With the correct calculation of the dimensions of the pit and proper strengthening its walls do not have to worry about the fact that there will be no room for the car to maneuver or the floor will sag under its weight.

A diagnostic pit is always a welcome attribute of a garage. It allows you to comfortably inspect the bottom of the car. A handy motorist with her help will independently replace the oil or a torn cuff. It is from her that the arrangement of the garage should begin. Having spent a certain amount, a pit can be built using hired labor. The article tells how to do this work with your own hands.

What to build a viewing hole from

The inspection pit in the garage is usually built of brick or monolithic reinforced concrete. Both options have their advantages and disadvantages. Brickwork is less labor-intensive, but not as durable and requires additional grouting of external masonry joints before applying waterproofing.

Reinforced concrete walls are stronger and more durable. The disadvantages include the increased complexity of manufacturing. To pour the concrete solution, it is necessary to construct a formwork, inside which reinforcement is knitted. A large amount of solution is required. It is possible to make both brick and concrete walls with your own hands.

Dimensions and position of the inspection hole

It is more rational to tear off the inspection trench at the same time as laying the foundation of the garage. The width of the ditch is usually 70–80 cm. If you take it less than 70 cm, the trench will be tight, wider than 80 cm - there is more risk of falling into a hole, which often happens. Well, if there are a few strong guys nearby. The trench is about 180 cm high, so that there is about 15 cm of clearance from the head to the bottom of the car. The length must be at least two meters, and better - along the length of the car plus 1 meter.

The position of the ditch can be different: in the center of the gate or with an offset. In this case, the machine stands away from the underground with its damp air. To inspect or perform any work, you will have to maneuver to drive into the ditch. For a more convenient entrance, the inspection pit in the garage can have an L-shaped configuration. You can go up and down the stairs without rolling the car.

Going down the ladder into the pit is inconvenient and dangerous. The ladder should be stationary, at the same time - comfortable and safe. The best option is to make steps simultaneously with the construction of the building envelope. With brick walls and steps, it is advisable to make bricks. When pouring walls made of monolithic reinforced concrete, steps should be cast at the same time. If for some reason they were not made at this stage, then the ladder can be made later with your own hands, when the inspection ditch is being arranged. The ladder is made of wood - with fastening steps on bowstrings or stringers, as well as metal - with corrugated iron treads.

How to make a pit light

Carrying out the arrangement of the garage box, lighting of the viewing hole in the garage should be provided. According to the rules for lighting in repair pits, the use of 220 V incandescent lamps is prohibited. It is allowed to use light sources with lamps of no more than 36 V. A step-down transformer is used to power them. good option are daylight luminaires in a sealed housing. If a 24V carrier is used, the safety cable must be at least four meters long.

Underground ventilation

In the repair trench, due to the temperature difference, high humidity and condensation forms and settles on the bottom of the car. To avoid this unpleasant phenomenon, the inspection hole in the garage must have good ventilation. The exhaust channel is made of asbestos-cement or plastic sewer pipe embedded in the crushed stone floor preparation. This pipe must be connected with a transition elbow to a vertical exhaust riser. Hoods from under the ceiling of the garage box and trenches must be independent. If you combine them into one - ventilation efficiency technical underground will drop sharply.

The contours of the pit

Before marking out a place in the garage for a future trench, it is necessary to draw a drawing of its cross section. The clear dimension of the trench should be taken as a basis. For example, the width will be 70 cm. Double the wall thickness must be added to this value. If the latter is 20 cm, it will turn out: 70 + (2 × 20) \u003d 110 cm. Add another margin - 5 cm on each side. Ultimately, the width of the trench at the bottom will be: 110 + (2 × 5) = 120 cm. In order to facilitate the subsequent application of coating waterproofing, the walls of the trench should be made inclined. To do this, it is enough to increase the width of the trench on the garage floor by 60 cm (30 cm per side). That is, at the top, the width of the ditch will be 180 cm. By the same principle, they dig trenches for the foundation.

Bucket or shovel

If the inspection hole in the garage is made simultaneously with the pouring of the foundation, it makes sense to resort to the services of an excavator. All work will be completed in half a day. The costs will be the same order as if you hire diggers. Sometimes it happens that in the season you still can’t find them. Well, if the idea came to arrange a technical trench when the garage has already been built? There is only one way out - to dig a pit with your own hands. In order not to do unnecessary work, some excavated soil should be stored near the construction site, since the earth will be needed for backfill sinuses.

The base of the trench from penetrating moisture should be protected by waterproofing. On the compacted bottom of the pit, a 10-centimeter footing is preliminarily poured. For preparation, a solution of grade M 150 is sufficient. In width, the preparatory layer is flush with the outer surface of the future walls of the trench. Any type of roll is used to isolate the sole. insulating material- roofing felt, Bikrost, Aquaizol, polymeric membranes. Cloths should be cut with an overlap on the walls.

A concrete floor is poured over the insulating layer. The brand is taken stronger - M 200. A thickness of 7–8 cm is enough, but it is better to reinforce the surface to be poured with a 150 × 150 road mesh with a wire thickness of 4 (3) mm.

Wall construction rules

To paraphrase Henry Ford, we can say - the design of the walls of the trench can be any, provided that it is rigid and durable. So that in the near future the walls do not bulge and crack, you should know how they should not be done:

lay brick walls in one spoon (120 mm thick);
make brickwork without reinforcement;
use silicate products for masonry;
flood concrete mix directly into the ground (with outer side ditches);
pour concrete without reinforcement;
use concrete.

Combined wall

One of the options structures of the enclosing structure with their own hands. The outer walls of the pit are dug out inclined, with a margin in width, in order to provide further access for waterproofing work. Lay out 4-5 rows of brickwork in half a brick along the entire internal contour of the future structure. This partition will serve as an internal formwork. The outer one is installed, retreating 130 mm from the folded wall immediately to the entire height of the trench, using old boards, plywood sheets, chipboard, OSB and other similar materials. They support it with struts and jibs, and then pour concrete mortar with the upper edge of the masonry.

A reinforcing masonry mesh 250 mm wide with a cell of 50 × 50 and a wire thickness of 4 or 5 mm is laid. Lay out the next section and install the reinforcement again. For better adhesion to concrete, the outer surface of the brickwork is made “into the wasteland”. The rigidity of the structure will be given by closed belts of reinforcement bars with a diameter of 10 mm, laid at the bottom and top of the fence. In order to subsequently equip the lighting of the viewing hole in the garage, niches are provided for installing lamps. Waterproofing, if provided for by the project, is carried out after the removal of the outer formwork.

Survey ditch and groundwater

Not always, unfortunately, in the garage you can make survey ditch. When groundwater (GW) is located under the garage at a depth of less than two meters, it is not worth starting construction. Life shows that in this case no waterproofing of the walls will help. When the GW are below 2.5 meters, a trench can be built, provided that high-quality waterproofing of the external walls of the inspection ditch is performed. It can be done with your own hands from several layers. pasting material: roofing felt, TechnoNIKOL, Stekloizol, Gidrostekloizol and others. Glue the surfaces with molten bitumen. There are penetrating materials: Hydrotex, Aquatron-6, Penetron. They are convenient in that they are applied to wet concrete and reduce waiting time. good clay castle oily crumpled clay serves.

global warming

So that the inspection hole in the garage is not covered with frost in winter, it can be insulated. To do this, the outer walls, on which waterproofing is applied, must be pasted over with insulation boards - polystyrene foam 5 cm thick. If such insulation is laid in 2 layers under the blind area around the perimeter of the entire garage, the floor in the garage and the trench will be even warmer.

Trench at full speed

In order not to accidentally fall into the pit, you need to make a fencing deck over it. The most simple design- thick transverse boards laid inside the edging from the corners, installed with the help of embedded elements or fixed anchor bolts. For this purpose, woodworking waste is well suited - slabs laid with a bulge down. The inspection hole in the garage, closed by them, when viewed from below, resembles a front-line dugout.

Finally

The construction of an observation trench resembles the pouring of a foundation and goes through the same steps:

markup;
excavation;
sole manufacturing;
walling;
waterproofing;
warming.

Having completed the construction of a trench made of reinforced concrete or brick, it is arranged. From the inside, the pit can be plastered or tiled. Such an "underground", built by one's own hands, will allow you to drive a car with complete confidence for it. technical condition. After all, by connecting the lighting of the viewing hole in the garage, you can regularly assess the condition of the chassis of your car.