Laying a viewing hole in the garage. Do-it-yourself inspection pit in the garage made of concrete. Internal waterproofing of the inspection pit

Convenient maintenance and minor car repairs, which can be carried out independently, can be provided thanks to the inspection hole. Otherwise, you will have to lie on your back under the car, which does not at all guarantee comfort during maintenance. Let's figure out how to make a viewing hole in the garage.

The dimensions and depth of the inspection pits can be different. When constructing such a pit on your own, you need to proceed from the dimensions of the car and your height. At the same time, it should be convenient in the viewing hole - so that there is where to turn around. But the pit should not be wider than the distance between the wheels.

Usually the pit is made more than eighty centimeters wide. The length of the pit is determined by the length of the car, to which 1 m is added. This approach will provide convenience during work. The depth is calculated based on your own height, while adding about ten to fifteen centimeters. If you plan to spend a lot of time under the car, a small stool or wooden ladder can help.

Everything described is not mandatory, when building a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands, you need to try to make it suitable for yourself.

To the question of the location of the pit. As a rule, it is more convenient to make a hole near the wall so that the garage can install equipment, cabinets, etc., where spare parts will be placed.

Material

Consider how to properly and from what materials to make the walls of the inspection pit. The walls of the pit are usually made of bricks, building blocks, or cast-in-place concrete.

When choosing the first option, ceramics is preferable, as the most moisture resistant material. It is worth remembering the thickness of the brick when determining the size of the pit - after laying out the walls with bricks or blocks, the volume of the pit will decrease.

The choice of material for the walls of the pit depends on the soil. If it is dry and dense - feel free to choose a brick. Otherwise, reinforced concrete must be used.

Concrete blocks are resistant to moisture. When using other blocks, a waterproofing material will be required. Concrete blocks can interact with moisture without negative consequences, are durable and will not swell in winter.

If the inspection pit is poured with concrete, the layer of such a fill must be at least fifteen centimeters. Reinforcement of concrete with wire mesh 0.5 cm thick will also be required. Instead of a grid, it is possible to establish a frame. For it, you can use fittings.

We protect from water

To reliably protect the pit, you need to carry out waterproofing from the outside. Such waterproofing should be carried out only during the construction of the pit itself. For the protection under consideration, a film or membrane made of butyl rubber or similar materials is used. Such protection must be lined in several layers, hermetically fixing the joints. In this case, the film or membrane must adhere well to the walls.

For complete protection from water, the pit must be waterproofed from the inside. For this, the walls are impregnated with a special coating. As the latter, a special composition for the pool or a primer is often used.

Also, a caisson made of metal sheet material can protect against moisture. The design is represented by a box treated with a special composition against corrosion. You can clearly see the caisson by examining the photo of the viewing hole in the garage with the caisson.

Ventilation

Natural ventilation is an integral element of the inspection pit. You need to do it in the process of building a pit. Ventilation in the inspection pit can also be done by hand. To do this, when working on the floor of the pit, a special hole is made in it to exhaust air through a hose. After installing the hose, cover it with a lid.

Additionally

If desired, electricity can be supplied to the viewing hole so that there is light. At the same time, do not forget about safety and moisture resistance.

Also, for the same purposes, you should not install sockets with a voltage of more than 35 volts. Lamps of 220 volts cannot be used.

An additional element will be the roof, which, as a rule, is wooden. The roof should be reliable, but, at the same time, not too heavy. The golden mean will be a thickness of three cm, which will ensure reliability and will not cause problems when opening.

Photo of a viewing hole in the garage

Carrying out maintenance or minor repairs to the car, many try to do it themselves. In order not to lie under the car on your back, you need a viewing hole in the garage.

Wiring must be installed before you start laying / pouring walls

Dimensions of the inspection hole in the garage

This is far from dogma. Everyone does as he sees fit. Some deep holes seem uncomfortable and they make them almost exactly in height, and sometimes even lower - 1.5 meters. If you take into account the clearance of the car, from the floor of the pit to the bottom of the car you get about 1.7-1.8 meters. You can do that too.

Another point in length. Sometimes a long hole cannot be made. Then it is made about half the length of the car, driving it in front or behind, depending on which part of the car needs to be inspected or repaired.

Now about where to place the pit in the garage. Usually it is slightly shifted to one of the walls, leaving a wide side for installing equipment, storing spare parts, etc. At the same time, there should be at least 1 meter from the edge of the pit to the nearest wall.

That's all there is to it. Just note that we were talking about the final dimensions of the pit. When marking the pit, you will need to add thickness to the walls, and dig deeper to the height of the floor screed (if you do it).

What materials are they made from

The inspection pit in the garage (its walls) is laid out with bricks, heavy building blocks, made of monolithic concrete. If we talk about bricks, then it is better to use ceramic brick: it is not afraid of humidity. The walls are made in half a brick or brick. The wall thickness, depending on the masonry method, is 12 cm or 25 cm. This must be taken into account when marking the pit.

Brick can be used on dry, dense soils. The groundwater level should be low. If the water is high, it is better to make the walls of the pit from reinforced concrete.

Brick viewing hole in the garage

Building blocks also need to choose those that are not afraid of high humidity. This is concrete blocks. The rest, if used, then with mandatory external waterproofing, and this is not a guarantee that they will not crumble, especially if groundwater is located close.

With concrete viewing hole everything is simpler: concrete is not afraid of moisture, it only becomes stronger from it. Concrete grade M 250 is used to fill the walls, M 200 is enough for the floor. Why is that? Because during winter heaving, the main load falls on the walls. So that they do not “fold”, a margin of safety is required, which is achieved by reinforcing and using high-strength concrete. By the way, in order to avoid heaving of the soil under the garage, it is necessary to make a good blind area so that the water leaves and does not soak into the soil.

The wall thickness when filling the inspection pit with concrete is from 15 cm. The stacks must be reinforced. To do this, use a finished mesh with a wire thickness of 5-6 mm and a step of 150 mm (if The groundwater deep) or knit a frame of reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The reinforcement installation step is 20 cm. For greater strength, you can make a single rod to the bottom and walls, bending it accordingly.

Waterproofing methods

The inspection pit in the garage can be protected from moisture penetration in two ways: with the help of external waterproofing, which is carried out exclusively during the construction process, and internal, which can also be done during operation.

Outdoor protection

If the groundwater at the construction site of the garage is deep, lower than 2.5 meters and does not rise higher even in spring or after heavy rains, you can do without waterproofing. On the other hand, the hydrological situation is constantly changing, and where it used to be dry, water may appear. If a viewing hole in the garage has already been built, you cannot do external waterproofing. It remains only to use deep penetration impregnations to reduce the hygroscopicity of the walls. Therefore, if possible, make external insulation anyway.

The second method of outdoor waterproofing

How to prevent moisture from entering the inspection hole in the garage? Most often, waterproofing films or membranes are used (butyl rubber, aquaizol, etc.). They are laid in panels, covering the pit from one edge to the other, releasing 10-15 cm on each side of the pit onto the garage floor. The sheets are overlapped. They must overlap by at least 15 cm. To get a more airtight joint, they are glued double sided tape, it is possible in two lanes - at the beginning and end of the "overlap". The film is well straightened so that it fits snugly against the walls of the pit. At further work it is important not to damage the membrane.

Internal waterproofing

Internal waterproofing is usually the impregnation of walls with coated waterproofing. If possible - composition for pools. It creates a waterproof thick film very reminiscent of rubber. It has a blue color and after hardening it washes well. It is better to process the walls with this composition twice, or more.

Impregnation of deep penetration significantly reduces the hygroscopicity of the material

Another option is a cement-based deep penetration primer. The polymer particles contained in it block the capillaries through which moisture penetrates through the thickness of the material. One such treatment significantly reduces the hygroscopicity of the material. In the case of water in the garage pit, at least two treatments are necessary (and even more is better).

Caisson device

There is another option to escape from the ground - to make a metal caisson. Brewed from sheet metal a box of appropriate sizes, treated with anti-corrosion compounds, then installed in a pit. If the welds are sealed, there will be no water, but another problem may arise. With a large amount of water, the caisson can squeeze out. It is said to "float".

To avoid such a situation, corners and rods are welded to the sides of the caisson from the outside, which go 1-1.5 meters into the ground. So that at the same time the volume of earthworks is not very large (the pit, taking into account these spacers, turns out to be large), you can cheat. Before installing the caisson, drive corners or metal rods into the ground, releasing their ends outward. You can weld them to the body of the caisson after installation. The pit will still have to be made larger (it is necessary to cook from the outside), but its dimensions will still be smaller. The second plus of this method is that the rods will be driven into dense soil, which means that they will better hold the caisson.

Another way to exclude the “emergence” of the caisson is to make a hole in the wall at a certain height. If the water rises to its level, it will begin to pour inward. Water can subsequently be pumped out, the main thing is that everything remains in place. The inspection pit in the garage, arranged according to this principle, stood for more than 20 years - until the metal rusted.

Pit for collecting water

If the pit has already been built, and coating waterproofing or impregnation did not give the desired result, it is necessary either to arrange a drainage system around the garage, or to collect water in one place. To do this, a pit is made in the garage inspection hole, at one of its ends. Water accumulates in it, from where it is pumped out by a pump. For the system to work automatic mode, put a water presence sensor, which, when triggered, turns on the pump.

Formwork is made under the pit, poured with concrete. Then they make the waterproofing of the pit along with the waterproofing of the entire pit. For reliability, you can also put a metal caisson inside.

They concreted it, the caisson was crushed with a load. Now there is water in the caisson. This is a metal caisson for the pit. We made waterproofing, we pump out water from the pit with a submersible pump. At the same time, we assemble a reinforcing frame for the concrete walls of the inspection pit. A pit was dug out, formwork was installed.

Since in this case it is impossible to completely get rid of dampness, a boardwalk is knocked down on the floor of the pit. In order for the boards to rot, they can be impregnated with mining. If you do not like its smell, take a special impregnation for wood that has direct contact with the ground (Senezh Ultra, for example).

Insulation of a viewing hole in the garage

If you spend a lot of time in the garage, then you will most likely have heating. To warm up faster and faster, it makes sense to insulate the pit. EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) is best suited for these purposes. It withstands significant loads, is not afraid of dampness, does not rot, fungi and bacteria do not multiply on it.

EPS thickness to create a tangible effect - from 50 mm. Lay it between the soil and the wall of the pit. Then from the outside-inside the pit will look like this:

Expanded polystyrene can also be laid under the screed at the bottom of the inspection hole. A reinforcing mesh is usually laid on top of it, and then concrete is poured.

After you have decided on the dimensions and what material the walls will be made of, what thickness they will be, you can start marking the pit. This can be done using pegs driven in around the perimeter. The second option is to pull the twine / rope between the stakes driven in at the corners. According to the markup, we begin to dig a pit. The earth is usually taken out and temporarily stored near the gate.

From brick: step by step photo report

Started digging a ditch

Along with excavation, monitor soil moisture. If you have reached the design depth (required + floor screed thickness), but there is still no moisture, you can do without waterproofing. Those who do not want to take risks can be advised to immediately lay the film.

We level the walls. It is not necessary to achieve ideal geometry, but there should not be noticeable humps and pits. We also level the bottom of the pit, ramming, compacting the soil well. Usually a manual rammer is used. A layer of crushed stone is poured at the bottom (two times 5 cm), each layer is also carefully rammed. Next comes a layer of sand. It is enough 5 cm. The sand is moistened, rammed to a high density - so that the foot is not imprinted. Next, lay the waterproofing film.

Line the bottom and walls waterproofing film

We level it well, tucking it into corners. We lay the panels with an overlap of 15 cm, which we glue with double-sided tape. So that the edges do not roll, we press with improvised materials - boards, stones.

We lay a layer of insulation on the bottom, on it - a reinforcing wire mesh. We fill all this with concrete grade M 200. The layer thickness is at least 5 cm. To make it easier to navigate when laying, we make marks on the film by which you can control the layer thickness.

If you use Portland cement M 400, the proportions will be as follows - cement 1 part, sand - 3, crushed stone of medium and fine fraction - 5 parts.

An inspection pit is being built in the garage: the floor is filled with concrete

We are waiting for several days until the concrete gains 50% strength. The exact time depends on the temperature. If it is around + 20 ° C, you will have to wait 5-6 days. If +17°C it's already two weeks.

Let's start laying out the walls. It was decided to do in half a brick. We used used bricks, about 850 pieces went (pit size 4.2 * 0.8 * 1.7 m). Up to the level of the elbow, the walls were laid out in a circle.

We build walls in brick

At the level of 1.2 meters from the floor, it was decided to make a niche for the tool. Its height is 3 rows of bricks, the top is covered with a processed board.

How is a niche made in a hole

In order not to have to lay out a brick niche, a metal insert is inserted. Welded box, suitable in size.

metal box

Further, the walls were driven out almost to the level with the garage floor. Part of the walls was replaced by two sections of channels. Jacks rest against the bottom if necessary. A metal corner with a shelf of 50 mm is laid on the top row, the thickness of the steel is 5 mm.

Channel on both sides of the inspection pit in the garage

The corner is unfolded so that one of its shelves is hung down, the second covers part of the upper surface of the brick. So that the wall does not collapse under load, mortgages are welded to this corner, which are then connected to the reinforcing belt of the concrete floor in the garage.

Corner laid welded mortgages

Filling the floor in the garage - the level of concrete along the upper edge of the corner

The second side is concreted

Features of the manufacture of concrete walls

When casting concrete walls, it is necessary to make a formwork. It is easier to make it from sheet material - building moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 16 mm or more, OSB. They knock down shields of the required size, strengthen them with bars on the outside. They are necessary so that plywood or OSB does not bend under the pressure of concrete. First put the outer parts of the formwork. If the walls of the pit are even, there will be no problems. You just lean them on, put them straight.

Then the internal formwork panels are exposed. Between them there must be a distance of at least 15 cm. So that during the pouring process the walls are not deformed, spacers are placed between them.

An example of formwork for a concrete inspection pit in a garage

Filling is desirable to carry out at a time. Filled portions must be bayoneted or processed with a submersible vibrator for concrete. Remove the formwork after two or three days. After that, you can install a corner with welded embedded rods (strips) and proceed with pouring the floor.

stroychik.ru

How to make a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands - instructions with photos and videos

Functions and necessity of an inspection and vegetable pit in the garage

The need for an inspection hole in the garage is obvious, since in cases of oil changes, minor repairs to the bottom of the body or a routine inspection, you have to set aside several hours for a trip to the station Maintenance and pay for expensive services.

The pit for technical inspection of the car can also be used as a cellar or vegetable store. For this, niches and shelves are constructed inside it.

The condition for the high-quality use of an inspection pit as a technical structure and a place for storing products is compliance with all construction standards and the availability reliable waterproofing floors and walls.

Even such simple design requires careful planning. An important point in this is to determine the quality of the soil and the level ground water. The most suitable basis for such structures is clay soil. Its peculiarity lies in the fact that it does not allow moisture to pass through, which means it can become a kind of waterproofing layer.

With a large accumulation of groundwater and a high level of their location, the inspection pit is additionally equipped with a drainage system to remove excess moisture, as well as submersible pumps so that the room can be quickly drained.

The ladder will provide a comfortable and safe descent

Step-by-step guide to making a viewing hole

Installation of a viewing hole can be carried out independently. There is nothing difficult in this, if you follow detailed instructions.

How to determine size

To make a calculation of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future viewing hole, you need to take into account the thickness of the walls and base. For such calculations, it is necessary to remember the course of geometry and resort to a simple formula that determines the area - S \u003d ah, where a is the length, h is the width of the pit. observation hole in ready-made will have dimensions of 75x185x300 cm. The thickness of the concrete walls and floor, as a rule, is about 10 cm. The calculations will be as follows: 0.85x3 \u003d 2.55 m² - this is the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pit for the viewing hole.

Comfortable work in the inspection pit creates a properly calculated space, namely, its parameters should be convenient for the complexion of the person in it. Usually the width of the pit is built in the range from 70 to 75 cm. This width is enough for you to move freely inside. The same distance between the walls makes the observation structure convenient for the arrival of a car.

The pit can be wider if the inspection hole is intended for large or trucks. The distance between internal parties the wheels of such transport are much larger (from 80 to 90 cm).

The observation pit is arranged in such a way that the walls narrow slightly to the floor. Schematically, in cross section, its design resembles an inverted trapezoid. This shape provides easy access to tools in niches and free movement.

The length of the inspection hole is selected based on the size of the garage. If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room allows, then a staircase can be provided in the pit. To do this, the length of the pit is increased by 100–120 cm.

The depth of the pit "with a margin" for installing the floor

The height of the pit is at least 170–180 cm. These dimensions are relative, since the depth is made in accordance with the growth of the car owner. Being in the inspection hole, a person should not touch the bottom of the car with his head.

For additional safety of the car and its owner, the inspection pit is equipped with metal limiters. Usually they are four pillars fixed at the corners of the niche. They rise 10-15 cm above it. Sometimes not four pillars are used for technical inspection, but two metal corners. They are fastened against each other along the edges of the length of the pit.

The depth must be more growth the owner by 25–30 cm. With such a distance from the base to the body, the hands will not quickly get tired, as this makes it possible for them to be in a bent position.

Materials and tools

Most often, concrete, wood, metal or brick are used for manufacturing.

To calculate the required amount of concrete, you must use the formula that determines the volume. To do this, multiply the values ​​​​of the length, width and height of the wall. Similar calculations are carried out for the floor.

If a brick is used during the construction of the pit, then, knowing its parameters, it is easy to calculate required amount of this material in pieces. The dimensions of the red brick are 250x120x60 mm.

When building a viewing hole, you can not do without the following tools:

• shovel and bayonet shovel;
• buckets for excavated earth and concrete mix;
• trowels;
• welding machine;
• hacksaws.

The following materials are also required:

• bricks;
• cement, sand, gravel;
• concrete M200 for the base;
• boards with a section of 400x50 mm;
• reinforcing bars;
• metal corner 50 mm wide;
• waterproofing material.

Instructions for making a viewing hole from bricks, boards, concrete and iron

All work must be done in a strict sequence of steps:

Features of the installation of partitions depends on the material used.

Observation pit made of concrete

Before pouring the mixture, it is necessary to make a formwork. For this it is best to use OSB boards. This material does not pass the poured mixture and does not deform over time. The plates are fastened together with the help of boards and self-tapping screws so that the distance between them is at least 15 cm.

To hold the shape of a wooden structure, it must be fixed with spacers. Gaps in the joints of the plates should be absent or minimal. A reinforcing mesh should be installed inside the finished formwork.

There is an option for pouring concrete with one-sided formwork. To do this, it is necessary to cover the walls of the pit with waterproofing material. Further along the inner perimeter of the pit, OSB plates are installed. A metal mesh is placed between them and the waterproofing. Concrete is poured inside this structure.

After the concrete hardens, a monolithic structure is obtained.

Observation pit made of bricks

A waterproofing sheet is laid in the finished pit. It should completely cover the floor and walls. The canvas must be laid with an overlap. So that the edges of the material do not bulge, they are pressed with boards. On top of the waterproofing, masonry is made “in half a brick”. When the wall reaches a height of 135 cm, you can make niches, and then continue laying to the top edge of the pit. It is recommended to install a metal frame from the corner on the last row, and it should be welded in such a way that one shelf of each side is parallel to the floor. Thick boards covering the pit will be laid on it. Next, they pour the concrete floor in the garage.

This masonry method makes the walls more durable.

Inspection pit made of metal sheets (caisson)

This design resembles a large box. In its manufacture, the sheets must be connected by continuous welding. The finished structure must be carefully treated with anti-corrosion coatings. The box should be equipped with fasteners. They are welded metal corners that rest on the ground by 100-150 cm. They are attached to the body from four sides. They will hold the box in place. If this is not done, the entire structure will simply float when the groundwater level rises.

The ladder is made from the same material.

observation hole from wooden planks

Wood without proper treatment quickly rots. Therefore, the material must be impregnated with special antifungal agents and additionally waterproofed. Boards for walls are better to take thick. The material is installed horizontally. Spacers are fixed along the edges of the narrow sides of the inspection hole.

For reliability, the bottom of the pit is made of concrete

Waterproofing device

This process is carried out both before the construction of the structure (external insulation), as well as after its construction (internal insulation).

If the garage is located on a site with a low level of groundwater, then many owners are in no hurry to isolate the viewing hole from moisture. However, the hydrological situation of any area changes every year, so it is recommended to take care of insulation even at the construction stage. For this, special films or membranes are used, for example, butyl rubber, aquaizol. They must be laid in a pit. The edges of the material should be laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm. To obtain a sealed seam at the overlap, double-sided tape is used.

When installing a film or membrane, it is important not to damage their integrity. Otherwise, moisture from the soil will get into the pit.

The laid waterproofing layer is melted with a blowtorch. As a result of this, the film straightens out, adhering more closely to the walls and the bottom of the inspection hole.

The overlap of the material will not allow moisture to seep into the pit

Do-it-yourself internal waterproofing of a viewing hole in a garage involves treating the surface of a finished viewing structure with liquid substances, which, when dried, form a dense water-repellent layer. The composition for the treatment of pools has proven itself well. It is applied with a dense wide brush, and when solidified, the substance forms a waterproof material resembling rubber. For greater reliability, more than two layers should be applied.

The insulating material can be applied with a spray gun

There is another way of internal isolation from moisture - this is the use of special primers based on cements, which tend to be deeply absorbed into the applied material. This effect is achieved due to the polymer particles that are in the mixture. They block the capillaries that allow moisture to penetrate through the base material.

How to close the finished viewing hole

A covered inspection pit will not only protect the car from accidental failure, but also serve as an additional waterproofing layer. In the absence of a cover, evaporated moisture settles on the lower parts of the car body, thereby creating favorable conditions for the formation of metal corrosion. To avoid such problems, the viewing hole is covered. To do this, use sheets of metal or boards.

Wood is relatively inexpensive and light material. If necessary, the boards are easy to replace. Pick them up from hard rock wood such as oak and larch. Before use, the boards are coated with antifungal impregnations and antiseptic substances. They are laid in the openings of metal corners fixed at the top of the viewing hole. The thickness of each board must be more than 40 mm.

The most suitable option for this purpose are boards

The use of metal is less convenient, since this material has big weight It is inexpensive and resistant to corrosion. During operation, its surface bends.

Video: do-it-yourself viewing hole in the garage

Step-by-step guide to building a vegetable pit with insulation

The construction of a vegetable pit has its own characteristics.

Drawing

For a vegetable pit, both the presence of waterproofing and depth are important.

The place for storing vegetables must be below the freezing point. Otherwise, the meaning of food storage is lost, as they will be spoiled by low temperatures.

The freezing point depends on the region where the garage is located, for example, in the northern regions the ground freezes up to 150 cm. Given this fact, you should dig a pit at least 190 cm deep. From 10 to 15 cm must be allocated for the drainage layer under the base, about 10 cm more is required to install the cover. 170–175 cm remains for placing shelves, racks and niches for vegetables and lighting. Depth also depends on the height of the host.

Option with optimal dimensions for this structure

The optimal width of the pit for vegetables is 150 cm. This size allows you to optimally place shelves and racks, while the person will not be constrained in movements inside the pit. To select the length, you need to follow the rule - the pit should not reach the walls of the garage closer than 50 cm.

Necessary materials and tools

To make a vegetable pit in the garage, you will need the following materials:

• waterproofing sheet;
• reinforcing bars;
• sand;
• gravel;
• formwork boards;
• metal corners;
• wire;
• bricks, metal sheets, boards or concrete M 250.

During the construction of this structure, you can not do without such tools:

• bayonet and shovel;
• concrete mixers;
• containers for concrete mix and water;
• blowtorch;
• double-sided tape;
• screwdriver.

Calculations of materials for the construction of a vegetable pit are similar to a viewing pit.

Manufacturing instructions

Having prepared all the necessary tools and materials, you can begin to build a vegetable pit:

Waterproofing device

The issue of isolating the inner surface of the cellar from moisture should be taken especially carefully. This is important, as the smallest hole in the waterproofing will become a source of dampness and cause spoilage of vegetables.

You can proceed to this stage only if the concrete is completely dry. You will need a waterproofing sheet or aquaizol. This material must cover the walls and floor of the vegetable pit. The canvas must be laid with an overlap of at least 15 cm. The joints are fixed with a blowtorch or double-sided tape. All actions with the lamp should be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the canvas, otherwise moisture will get inside the vegetable pit. The same materials cover the outer part of the ceiling of the pit.

Solid coverage prevents moisture penetration

How to insulate a cellar in a garage

Solving the issue of insulating the cellar in the garage is just as important as installing waterproofing. The insulation will help maintain a stable temperature inside the pit. To do this, you can use mineral wool or foam.

To install foam panels, plastic dowels "umbrellas" will be required. The installation process is as follows:

1. With the help of a drill or a puncher, five holes are drilled in the plate attached to the wall (in the corners and in the middle of the material).
2. Plastic dowels are hammered into them, into which self-tapping screws are twisted.
3. The joints of the plates are filled with mounting foam.

In the northern regions, where the air temperature drops below 25–30ºС, it is also necessary to insulate the ceiling of the vegetable pit. So that over time the foam does not crumble, you can cover it with any finishing material. This will create an additional thermal insulation effect.

Mounting foam qualitatively fills the joints of the plates

Video: how to make a dry pit, cellar, basement in the garage of the desired width

Making an inspection or vegetable pit in the garage with your own hands is not difficult at all. It is enough to listen to the recommendations of experts and follow step by step instructions. If desired, these two rooms can be combined.

postroika.biz

Do-it-yourself inspection pit in the garage: how is it done right? 78 photos of the arrangement of the pit

Do-it-yourself arrangement of a viewing hole in the garage will help speed up and reduce the cost of auto repair, its presence will allow for regular independent technical inspection. Proper arrangement of a viewing hole gives a whole list of advantages, and your the main task during its construction - observe all the subtleties of technology.

How to make a viewing hole on your own will be discussed below.

Calculation of the size of the viewing hole

The size of the viewing hole directly depends on the number of people who are planned to be placed there at the same time, as well as on the dimensions of your car and the size of the garage.

The standard version offers the following dimensions: width - 80-100 cm; depth - 170-200 cm; length - from 160 to 200 cm.

When planning the dimensions of the inspection pit, it is also necessary to take into account the features of the building itself, which can affect its dimensions.

First stage

After the foundation pit has been dug for the inspection hole, you can proceed to the construction of the floor. To begin with, you will need to equip the ventilation of the viewing hole, as shown in the photo.

Before arranging the floor, take care of the hole through which the duct hose will pass. The hose is closed with a cap and inserted about 20 cm.

Then you need to prepare a two-layer concrete pad. Gravel is poured in the first layer 10 cm thick, sand is poured in the second, 6 cm thick, such a drainage system will ensure the removal of moisture. Each layer is leveled and rammed, the pit is smeared with clay.

Next, you need to lay the reinforcement and pour the surface with concrete. After the concrete has dried, another waterproofing layer is laid, then the final finishing and treatment of the pit with materials for thermal insulation is carried out.

Waterproofing and insulation

The main requirements for waterproofing materials are their economy and efficiency. Based on these criteria, the following options can be applied:

• single-layer polymer membrane - its thickness is 2 mm, the material is durable and strong, but it is very expensive. In addition, special equipment will be required to install the membrane;
• bitumen-based materials (roofing material or bituminous lubricant) - widely available in terms of cost, very easy to install, their service life will be at least fifteen years;
• waterproofing lubricant - easy to apply and has a relatively low price.

The main task of insulation is to reduce the amount of electricity required to heat the garage. Insulation is glued to the walls and floor of the garage pit before final finishing.

• long service life;
• resistance to heat loss;
• moisture resistance;
• affordable price;
• compliance with fire safety requirements.

The material used to insulate the floor of the pit should be more dense than the material used to insulate its walls.

Walling

To build the walls of the inspection pit, you will have two options for carrying out the work: either concreting or brickwork, then Finishing work.

First, carry out a little preparation, consisting in applying clay to the wall surface, laying a waterproofing film and installing a formwork 12 cm thick.

As mentioned above, the walls of the pit are built either from concrete or brick.

Concreting is much less expensive, although it will take more time. Concrete walls are highly durable and reliable, so most resort to just this method of arranging a viewing hole.

First, compact the crushed stone, after which it is necessary to reinforce using a wire mesh with cells measuring 15x15 cm.

To prepare one cubic meter of concrete you will need:

• 300 kg of cement;
• 700 kg of sand;
• 200 l of water;
• 1200 kg of crushed stone.

When manually mixing water, it is necessary to add more, using a concrete mixer, leave the given proportions unchanged.

The walls are erected with a thickness of 15 cm, concrete is laid in layers. Reinforcement will also be required using a mesh similar to the one you used when reinforcing the floor.

The grid is installed in strips, concrete is laid in the same way. After three days from the end of concreting, the formwork is removed.

Photo of a viewing hole in the garage

landscapeportal.ru

Do-it-yourself pit in the garage - how to make?

A diagnostic pit is always a welcome attribute of a garage. It allows you to comfortably inspect the bottom of the car. A handy motorist with her help will independently replace the oil or a torn cuff. It is from her that the arrangement of the garage should begin. Having spent a certain amount, a pit can be built using hired labor. The article tells how to do this work with your own hands.

What to build a viewing hole from

The inspection pit in the garage is usually built of brick or monolithic reinforced concrete. Both options have their advantages and disadvantages. Brickwork is less labor-intensive, but not as durable and requires additional grouting of external masonry joints before applying waterproofing.

Iron concrete walls stronger and more durable. The disadvantages include the increased complexity of manufacturing. To pour the concrete solution, it is necessary to construct a formwork, inside which reinforcement is knitted. Required a large number of solution. It is possible to make both brick and concrete walls with your own hands.

Dimensions and position of the inspection hole

It is more rational to tear off the inspection trench at the same time as laying the foundation of the garage. The width of the ditch is usually 70–80 cm. If you take it less than 70 cm, the trench will be tight, wider than 80 cm - there is more risk of falling into a hole, which often happens. Well, if there are a few strong guys nearby. The trench is about 180 cm high, so that there is about 15 cm of clearance from the head to the bottom of the car. The length must be at least two meters, and better - along the length of the car plus 1 meter.

The position of the ditch can be different: in the center of the gate or with an offset. In this case, the machine stands away from the underground with its damp air. To inspect or perform any work, you will have to maneuver to drive into the ditch. For a more convenient entrance, the inspection pit in the garage can have an L-shaped configuration. You can go up and down the stairs without rolling the car.

Ladder for a viewing hole

Going down the ladder into the pit is inconvenient and dangerous. The ladder should be stationary, at the same time - comfortable and safe. The best option is to make steps simultaneously with the construction of the building envelope. At brick walls oh and it is advisable to make steps from bricks. When pouring walls made of monolithic reinforced concrete, steps should be cast at the same time. If for some reason they were not made at this stage, then the ladder can be made later with your own hands, when the inspection ditch is being arranged. The ladder is made of wood - with fastening steps on bowstrings or stringers, as well as metal - with corrugated iron treads.

How to make a pit light

Carrying out the arrangement of the garage box, lighting of the viewing hole in the garage should be provided. According to the rules for lighting in repair pits, the use of 220 V incandescent lamps is prohibited. It is allowed to use light sources with lamps of no more than 36 V. A step-down transformer is used to power them. Lamps are a good option. daylight in a sealed case. If a 24V carrier is used, the safety cable must be at least four meters long.

Underground ventilation

In the repair trench, due to the temperature difference, increased humidity occurs and condensation forms with precipitation on the bottom of the vehicle. To avoid this unpleasant phenomenon, the inspection hole in the garage must have good ventilation. The exhaust channel is made from an asbestos-cement or plastic sewer pipe embedded in the crushed stone floor preparation. This pipe must be connected with a transition elbow to a vertical exhaust riser. Hoods from under the ceiling of the garage box and trenches must be independent. If you combine them into one - ventilation efficiency technical underground will drop sharply.

The contours of the pit

Before marking out a place in the garage for a future trench, it is necessary to draw a drawing of its cross section. The clear dimension of the trench should be taken as a basis. For example, the width will be 70 cm. Double the wall thickness must be added to this value. If the latter is 20 cm, it will turn out: 70 + (2 × 20) \u003d 110 cm. Add another margin - 5 cm on each side. Ultimately, the width of the trench at the bottom will be: 110 + (2 × 5) = 120 cm. In order to facilitate the subsequent application of coating waterproofing, the walls of the trench should be made inclined. To do this, it is enough to increase the width of the trench on the garage floor by 60 cm (30 cm per side). That is, at the top, the width of the ditch will be 180 cm. By the same principle, they dig trenches for the foundation.

Bucket or shovel

If the inspection hole in the garage is made simultaneously with the pouring of the foundation, it makes sense to resort to the services of an excavator. All work will be completed in half a day. The costs will be the same order as if you hire diggers. Sometimes it happens that in the season you still can’t find them. Well, if the idea came to arrange a technical trench when the garage has already been built? There is only one way out - to dig a pit with your own hands. In order not to do unnecessary work, some excavated soil should be stored near the construction site, since the earth will be needed to backfill the sinuses.

Filling the floor of the pit

The base of the trench from penetrating moisture should be protected by waterproofing. On the compacted bottom of the pit, a 10-centimeter footing is preliminarily poured. For preparation, a solution of grade M 150 is sufficient. In width, the preparatory layer is flush with the outer surface of the future walls of the trench. Any type of roll is used to isolate the sole. insulating material- roofing felt, Bikrost, Aquaizol, polymeric membranes. Cloths should be cut with an overlap on the walls.

A concrete floor is poured over the insulating layer. The brand is taken stronger - M 200. A thickness of 7–8 cm is enough, but it is better to reinforce the surface to be poured with a 150 × 150 road mesh with a wire thickness of 4 (3) mm.

Wall construction rules

To paraphrase Henry Ford, we can say - the design of the walls of the trench can be any, provided that it is rigid and durable. So that in the near future the walls do not bulge and crack, you should know how they should not be done:

• lay brick walls in one spoon (120 mm thick);
• make brickwork without reinforcement;
• use silicate products for masonry;
• flood concrete mix directly into the ground (with outer side ditches);
• pour concrete without reinforcement;
• use concrete.

Combined wall

One of the options structures of the enclosing structure with their own hands. The outer walls of the pit are dug out inclined, with a margin in width, in order to provide further access for waterproofing work. Spread 4-5 rows brickwork in half a brick along the entire internal contour of the future structure. This partition will serve as an internal formwork. The outer one is installed, retreating 130 mm from the folded wall immediately to the entire height of the trench, using old boards, plywood sheets, chipboard, OSB and other similar materials. They support it with spacers and jibs, after which a concrete solution is poured with the upper edge of the masonry.

A reinforcing masonry mesh 250 mm wide with a cell of 50 × 50 and a wire thickness of 4 or 5 mm is laid. Lay out the next section and install the reinforcement again. For better adhesion to concrete, the outer surface of the brickwork is made “into the wasteland”. The rigidity of the structure will be given by closed belts of reinforcement bars with a diameter of 10 mm, laid at the bottom and top of the fence. In order to subsequently equip the lighting of the viewing hole in the garage, niches are provided for installing lamps. Waterproofing, if provided for by the project, is carried out after the removal of the outer formwork.

Survey ditch and groundwater

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to make a survey ditch in the garage. When groundwater (GW) is located under the garage at a depth of less than two meters, it is not worth starting construction. Life shows that in this case no waterproofing of the walls will help. When the GW are below 2.5 meters, a trench can be built, provided that high-quality waterproofing of the external walls of the inspection ditch is performed. It can be done with your own hands from several layers of pasting material: roofing felt, TechnoNIKOL, Stekloizol, Hydrostekloizol and others. Glue the surfaces with molten bitumen. There are penetrating materials: Hydrotex, Aquatron-6, Penetron. They are convenient in that they are applied to wet concrete and reduce waiting time. A good clay castle is greasy crumpled clay.

global warming

So that the inspection hole in the garage is not covered with frost in winter, it can be insulated. To do this, the outer walls, on which waterproofing is applied, must be pasted over with insulation boards - polystyrene foam 5 cm thick. If such insulation is laid in 2 layers under the blind area around the perimeter of the entire garage, the floor in the garage and the trench will be even warmer.

Trench at full speed

In order not to accidentally fall into the pit, you need to make a fencing deck over it. The simplest design is thick transverse boards laid inside the edging of the corners, installed using embedded elements or secured with anchor bolts. For this purpose, woodworking waste is well suited - slabs laid with a bulge down. The inspection hole in the garage, closed by them, when viewed from below, resembles a front-line dugout.

Finally

The construction of an observation trench resembles the pouring of a foundation and goes through the same steps:

• markup;
• excavation;
• sole manufacturing;
• walling;
• waterproofing;
• warming.

Having completed the construction of a trench made of reinforced concrete or brick, it is arranged. From the inside, the pit can be plastered or tiled. Such an "underground", built by one's own hands, will allow you to drive a car with complete confidence for it. technical condition. After all, by connecting the lighting of the viewing hole in the garage, you can regularly assess the condition of the chassis of your car.

The garage is a creative workshop of real men. Most representatives of the stronger sex have a car that needs to be monitored and repaired in time. In order not to carry out repair work under the car while lying on your back, everyone can independently equip their garage with the so-called viewing hole. How to make this device correctly and what is needed for this we will consider in more detail in our article.

How to design a viewing hole in the garage

Having your own viewing hole for motorists is a big plus. Without extra costs and at any time of the day, it is possible to carry out minor repairs or maintenance of your car without leaving home. Of course, it is correct to plan the construction of a viewing hole before the construction of the garage itself, but often they are already created on the basis of a finished building. Before proceeding with construction activities, it is necessary, based on measurements, to make a project for the future garage fixture. Professionals in this business give many answers to the question: how to mark a viewing hole in the garage? The dimensions of the inspection pit should ideally correspond to certain parameters. You can rely on the dimensions of your particular car, if the structure is intended purely for the repair of one car. But still, it is worth thinking about the fact that over time you can change the car, and it will be of completely different dimensions, and the garage will remain the same. Therefore, it is recommended to add a margin of about 1 meter to the dimensions of the car, this will make the workplace even more convenient.

The length of the viewing hole is most often 4-5 meters, plus a margin. Such dimensions allow you to have enough space for the implementation of repair efforts.

The width of the structure varies depending on the distance between the wheels of the machine. For passenger models, the standard is approximately 80 cm.

The depth of the pit is usually determined by the growth of the owner. But this does not mean that it should be very deep or vice versa. It is still better to find a middle ground, relying on previous sizes. Determination of the dimensions of the inspection pit implies the further production of a drawing, which in the process is implemented by the stage of digging a pit.

Earthwork in the manufacture of a viewing hole with their own hands

One of the most voluminous and demanding efforts is the stage of excavation in the manufacture of a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands. To dig a hole standard size you need to excavate about 10 cubic meters of earth. Usually, the marking of the future structure is marked with pegs. The excavated bottom is checked with a building level, which allows you to determine whether the surface of the earth has been excavated evenly. A properly dug pit, in compliance with all dimensions, is considered the key to future functionality, reliability and convenience of the design of the viewing hole in your garage.

Making the walls and floor of the garage pit with your own hands

Before you start working on the floor and walls of the garage pit, you should check all the measurements again. It is recommended that the top of the pit be slightly wider than the bottom.

Most often, the floor of the inspection pit is poured with concrete. This process must be carried out in two stages: first fill in half, then another one. Previously, the floor is prepared for concrete pouring in this way: 5-6 cm of sand is poured onto the ground, which is compacted by hand.

When concreting the floor, reinforcement or fine mesh is used, which provide durability and reliability to the concrete coating.

Do-it-yourself manufacturing features of the walls of the inspection pit depend on the material chosen for work. For the construction of walls, one of two common materials is usually chosen: brick or monolithic concrete.

Observation pit made of concrete

To build a pit for a garage, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

1. Saw, bayonet shovel, level, wire cutters, square, hammer, bolt cutter, etc.

2. Nails, concrete, lumber for formwork, reinforcing mesh, gravel, etc.

We dig a hole in size, as described above, and fill in the concrete floor. After the concrete has completely dried, the stage of work on the formwork begins. In advance, you need to think about shelves for tools and improvised materials. Formwork is usually assembled from boards or other wood materials. When the formwork structure is fully assembled, it is cemented with a layer of approximately 40 cm. It is recommended to add metal mesh into each layer.

When all the finishing work has been done with the walls, then a mortgage frame is justified from above, the main function of which is considered to be insurance of the wheel from falling into the pit.

The peculiarity of the inspection pit made of concrete is proper conduct stages of work with the solution itself, on which the strength and durability of the structure depends.

Remember, in order to avoid unpleasant inconsistencies and hassle, you need to prepare in advance the draft of your viewing hole for the garage.

Observation pit made of bricks

Similar to the first option, the first process of building a brick garage pit is to fill the floor. When the floor is ready, you can start working directly on the walls themselves. Features of a viewing hole made of bricks are in the following points of work.

When planning, it is worth choosing in advance the location of niches for tools, etc. It is better that such recesses are located on the sides of the building. When laying out the walls, you can choose the thickness - a whole or ½ brick. When preparing a solution, beginners are recommended to ready mix add liquid soap, as it prolongs the setting time, which is very beneficial for the work of inexperienced builders.

When laying bricks, it is important that everything is neat and even. To do this, use a stretched cord, with which they check the verticality.

As practice shows, the upper rows of bricks lend themselves to rapid destruction. Therefore, they need to be protected with metal corners.

Do-it-yourself waterproofing of a viewing hole

The presence of a viewing hole in the garage is, of course, very convenient and so on, but it is also very dangerous for the equipment itself. If you miss such an important point as the waterproofing of this design, then the room will be damp and damp, and this is a direct road to corrosion and other negative aspects.

Do-it-yourself waterproofing and insulation of a viewing hole in a garage are considered quite controversial even among professional craftsmen. And the thing is that to create waterproofing are used different type materials:

Waterproofing works can be conditionally divided into primary and secondary.

The primary stage includes the following processes:

1. The first layer under concrete should be covered with gravel about 15 cm.

3. The initial protection of the walls, before the waterproofing coating, requires surface treatment with greasy clay.

Secondary waterproofing, which is also the main one, consists in using materials suitable for deepening.

The first type is bituminous materials. They are usually produced by manufacturers in specially formed rolls. The use of bitumen requires the additional use of the desired brand of solvents. Bituminous materials such as roofing material, euroroofing material, rubemast are considered popular.

The second is polymeric membranes. The service life of this type is practically unlimited. Waterproofing membranes are single-layer and multi-layer. They are very resistant to physical and chemical influences. One important point is that this is a rather expensive material.

Penetrating materials are renowned for their maximum resistance to moisture penetration. Special lubricants must be applied to a wet surface. Due to their properties, they penetrate tightly deep into and are firmly clogged.

The most commonly used material for waterproofing is considered liquid rubber. It is very convenient to use and can be used under various temperature conditions. In addition, this is a very profitable product: only 2 mm of liquid rubber almost completely compensates for four layers of bituminous materials.

The work on waterproofing the inspection pit must be carried out in several steps. It should be borne in mind that each layer of materials used for waterproofing, one way or another, takes away from your garage structure, albeit minimal, but space. Therefore, it is very important to make the dimensions of the dug hole with a margin, taking into account all processes. Installation of waterproofing directly depends on the selected materials.

As for the insulation of the inspection pit, many say that the best option is a heated garage. But if this is not an option and you need to choose some kind of material, then it is best to take it - polystyrene foam.

Do-it-yourself additional equipment for a viewing hole

If there is an inspection hole in the garage room, it is very important that it be closed during non-working hours. To do this, the owner needs to take care of additional equipment in the viewing hole. The roof of the inspection pit, even with waterproofing in the recess, still protects the car from possible high humidity.

A controversial issue regarding the equipment of the inspection pit is lighting. Some motorists say that this is a necessity, others believe that a simple carrying with a light bulb is enough. Remember the voltage of 220 V when used in a viewing hole is a threat to life. For such rooms use special lamps.

The presence of a viewing hole automatically makes the car owner's garage multifunctional and convenient.

For detailed information on the design and construction of a viewing hole with your own hands, we suggest watching the video:

In the garage room, the viewing hole becomes simply irreplaceable. With it, you can regularly carry out an almost professional technical inspection, make a planned replacement of parts, as well as repairs, if necessary. Of course, if a car enthusiast devotes enough time to his car, repairs and inspects it himself, he just needs to equip the room accordingly. Today we will learn how bricks can be built. Let's define all the most milestones, helpful tips, find out which algorithm to build a pit. In addition, we will consider a specific algorithm for building a viewing hole made of bricks.

First of all, it will be necessary to carry out complex preparatory work. Now we will highlight all the most important points.

ground water

One risk factor is of great importance - the level of groundwater rise. The final success of the work on the construction of the inspection pit largely depends on this. In some cases, it is necessary to abandon the construction of such a pit or cellar. You need to be prepared in advance for the fact that the water level will be critical.

Unfortunately, in some settlements there are no specialized geological services at all, where relevant surveys are carried out. But you can independently determine the level of groundwater rise with enough high precision. This is done in the following way. You need to dig a hole 2.5 meters deep. Watch how high the water rises. When the worst forecasts are confirmed, that is, the waters lie too close to ground level, it is better to refuse to build a viewing hole. Of course, purely theoretically, it is possible to provide waterproofing even in such a situation, but then the pit will look more like a bunker, it will take a lot of effort and investment in construction, and the danger of flooding will still remain.

Another option that will help to cope with the natural risk factor is the arrangement of drainage. It happens that a motorist takes care of his car professionally, he needs an inspection hole, but there is no opportunity to choose another site. In this case, high-quality groundwater drainage should be done. Digging out special drainage well outside the garage, where the water is drained. But such work is laborious and requires significant investments.

Properly determine the size of the viewing hole

It is very important to determine exactly optimal parameters viewing hole. It should not be too large, but it is also inconvenient to work in cramped quarters. Everything must be correctly selected, of course, in accordance with the dimensions of the car.

Let us dwell on the methods for determining the key parameters.

• Pit length. Consider the parameters of the car. Typically, the standard length of a viewing hole for a passenger car is approximately 4-5 meters. To equip a comfortable descent with an attached or monolithic staircase, you need to add one more meter. These are good parameters that are focused on comfortable, rational use of the viewing hole. You will no longer need to regularly move the car during repair work, as happens if the pit is too small, short.
• Width. Here the distance between the wheels of the car plays a key role for you. The standard parameter for modern cars is a pit with a width of 75-80 cm. This width will be quite enough, while it is not too large.
• Depth. Everything is strictly individual here. Of course, they work standing up in the inspection pit. Some dig shallow holes so as not to provoke pressure and groundwater leakage, but it is inconvenient to work while sitting on a stool. It is better to make a good deep viewing hole. Approximately 15 cm is added to the height of the motorist. When there are any doubts about the depth (for example, when several people with different heights are planned to work in the pit), of course, it is better to make it larger. After all, if necessary, you can simply make a small platform under your feet.

When the parameters are determined, it is necessary to make a drawing, and write all the exact dimensions on it. Then this scheme is transferred to the construction site, digging a pit.

Construction methods

The construction process will largely depend on the method of arranging the viewing hole. The best option is to lay the foundation immediately, even at the stage of erecting the strip foundation and the basement of the garage. In this case, the excavator also digs the pit. At the same time, work is underway to waterproof, ventilate and insulate the pit with the garage as a whole.

But quite often you have to deal with construction after the construction of the garage box. Of course, then you have to dig the pit manually.

Pay attention to one significant point. You will need soil from the development, so that later you can fill your sinuses with it, as well as raise the level of the floor in the room. The fact is that the floor of the garage is made at a mark higher than the road on which the car leaves.

Building a viewing hole

It's time to consider in detail how to build a brick inspection pit with your own hands. Let's start by clarifying some points.

Specify the size of the pit

We have already talked about the parameters of the viewing hole. But it is important to remember: the pit must be larger than the pit! Consider the following settings.

You have to lay out a leveling layer, which will consist of gravel, crushed stone and sand. The standard thickness of such a layer is 50-100 mm. This must be added to the depth.

The bottom is made of concrete with a grade of 150-200, the thickness of which is approximately 100 mm. This is also reflected in the depth of the pit.

Width and length also increase, since the thickness of the brick walls is 250 mm when building in one brick. In addition, a gap of about 30-40 mm should be left between the masonry and the wall of the pit, in order to then make waterproofing from the outside and sealing backfill with soil.

Work algorithm

You will need crushed stone, concrete grade 200, cement, gravel and sand, as well as waterproofing sheet materials(isolon), plaster, brushes with shovels, level, step-ladder, metal corner, boards, polystyrene foam for insulation, metal pipes and lattices for the device of ventilation.

Let's move on to the step-by-step instructions.

1. First of all, all the markup from the drawing is transferred to the garage floor in the place where you decided to make an inspection hole.
2. Then you need to dig a pit. The bottom is carefully cleaned, after which the floor is arranged in the pit. In the process of working in the pit, it is better to go down the ladder.
3. After leveling the floor, a horizontal waterproofing of the bottom is performed. Use roll materials, for example, the well-known isolon. The material is popular, proven. You can take roofing material, in extreme cases - a thick plastic film.
4. Be sure to bring the edges of the waterproofing material 50 cm beyond the bottom of the pit. Then they are wrapped, attached to the outer surface of the brickwork.
5. An important stage is the concreting of the bottom. Here it is necessary to immediately take into account the dimensions of the concrete base. If the pit is planned with a width of 75 cm, add the thickness of the brickwork (50 cm along the perimeter), and also make a margin of 5-10 cm. As a result, the width is 140 cm. The width of the concrete base is calculated in the same way.
6. Reinforcement is optional, although for greater reliability and durability it is still better to lay a reinforcing metal mesh. If you took the concrete mix M-200, and the thickness of the concrete bottom is more than 80 cm, it is quite possible to do without reinforcement.
7. Then there comes a time when it is necessary to allow the concrete to harden. This will take at least 3 days.
8. Now it's time to start laying the brick walls of the inspection pit. Carefully make orders, use a level so that the masonry is adjusted horizontally. There are enough walls in one brick. Do not forget that you need to leave a gap between the walls of the pit and the masonry.
9. Perform thorough plastering of the walls on both sides. A good solution is to plaster the masonry in parallel with the construction of the walls. So, having laid out 4 rows, it is necessary to cover them with a layer of plaster outside and inside.
10. Pay more attention outdoor decoration walls. High-quality coating waterproofing is required. Use bituminous mastic, hot bitumen. Such waterproofing is necessarily carried out in two layers. This is indispensable, since it is precisely such a measure that will prevent the appearance of dampness in the inspection hole. Otherwise, the walls will draw moisture from the ground.
11. When the masonry is completely completed, done outdoor waterproofing, the turn of backfilling of the existing sinuses comes. Here you will need the soil left over from digging the pit. It is covered with 15 cm, carefully rammed, then the next layer is made. This layer-by-layer ramming is also very important. The best solution is to add clay to the soil. The compacted clay layer will become a reliable additional barrier to moisture penetration, as well as a monolithic support for masonry.

If you want to conduct lighting in the viewing hole, immediately provide niches for lighting fixtures in the masonry. It is also worth making an additional large niche for storing the most popular tool, wrenches.

We equip a viewing hole

It is important to conduct a sufficiently voluminous extra work to fully equip the viewing hole in the garage.

niches

They are useful for lighting fixtures and tools. They need to be provided in the process of laying brick walls. Optimal dimensions for a standard niche, the following are: depth 12 cm, height 25-30 cm, and length approximately 50-75 cm.

Water collection

Pit - very useful thing in the viewing hole. After all, even with impeccable waterproofing, you will need to somehow get rid of moisture that can be carried on the wheels, drip from the car. The best option is to make a liquid collector at the bottom of the inspection hole. To do this, a minimum slope is made to one corner. There is a small hole dug. It is also cemented so that the edges do not collapse. Since it is possible to accidentally step there, the pit is covered with a strong grate.

Ventilation

It is advisable to make forced or natural ventilation in the inspection pit. Use metal pipes, a small fan. Ventilation will help to quickly eliminate all harmful fumes from the pit, as well as prevent the formation of condensate. And it is much more comfortable and safer to be in such a space.

Strengthening the edges of the pit

The edges of the pit should be well reinforced. Be sure to do this so that the pit does not crumble, withstand the pressure of the wheels of the car. You will need a metal corner No. 45-50. A framing frame is welded from it around the entire perimeter of the viewing hole. In order for the frame to be securely fixed, anchor outlets with a diameter of 6-10 mm must be welded to the outer sides. They should be located every 25 cm. When the garage floor is additionally concreted, they enter the concrete base.

We close the hole

To protect the pit from all external influences, it is desirable to close it for those periods when it is not in use. It is worth considering this point already at the stage of welding the corners for the frame. Weld them so that the boards fit comfortably into it along the narrow side.

Wheel stops

Consider the moment the car enters the area above the viewing hole. So that the wheels do not even accidentally fall into it, it is necessary to specially install limiters for them. To do this, take a metal profile: corner, channel or pipes. The metal frame should rise above the floor, protecting the pit from the arrival of the car.

Warming

A good solution is to insulate the viewing hole. For this, sheets of expanded polystyrene are suitable, which can simply be glued to brick walls.

Lighting

Take care of lighting the space of the pit. Install lamps in pre-prepared niches, run through plastic channels cables. Lighting will ensure comfortable work at any time.

Step-by-step instructions with a photo from the garage

A step-by-step instruction with a photo allows you to get a visual representation of the process of building a viewing hole made of bricks with your own hands.

1. At first it was easy to work: there was sand digging.
2. Then the clay went, so it became more difficult to dig.
3. Made a waterproofing box out of isoplast. Temporarily laid the boards for fixing.
   
4. Installed reinforcing mesh.
   
5. Started laying brick walls.
   
6. Made niches on the sides.
   
7. Recesses of different sizes: for tools, for lamps.
8. Nishi also decorated with metal frames.
   
9. The niche for the lamp is small.
   
10. I took a part of concrete, two parts of cement and gravel. Made a concrete pour.
    
11. He poured concrete carefully: inside the floor, outside, around the pit, to further strengthen it.
    
12. Carefully plastered the walls.
    
13. I made a socket for a portable lamp in my pocket.
    
14. Ran the cable.
    
15. He inserted a lamp into the niche.
    
16. This is what the finished pit looks like with lighting.
    

Video: learning to make a viewing hole

You will be able to better understand all the intricacies of building a viewing hole in the garage if you watch the following video material. You can make a hole with your own hands. The main thing is to remember everything important tips, work algorithm. A complete picture will be obtained after watching the following video: it describes in detail and shows with a specific example how to build a viewing hole in the garage.

Be careful, act carefully.

An inspection hole in the garage helps out many motorists, with the help of which you can carry out minor repairs and maintenance, make a detailed inspection of the lower part of the car, and diagnose the chassis. But in order to properly make a hole, it is necessary to fulfill certain conditions, to follow a certain order of work.

If the inspection pit (SP) is not done according to the rules, it will be inconvenient to use, it can be flooded with water, and it is unlikely to last long. In the article we will consider what criteria should be followed when creating a SA, the procedure, necessary materials, tool, existing construction technology.

Where to start making a viewing hole

Any structure always begins with calculations, before proceeding with digging a pit, it is necessary to determine in advance:

• dimensions;
• the place where the pit will be located;
• materials used (brick or concrete).

It should be said that it is easier to make a SA when there is no garage, and it is only in the project, especially in cases where groundwater is at a depth higher underground than 2.5 m, since in this case drainage work is required. If the water runs too high under the finished garage, it may be necessary to abandon the inspection hole, since drainage will be very problematic.

So let's start with the dimensions:

• length - usually taken about one meter more than a standard car. If the garage is for repair and maintenance cars, a typical size of 4.5 m is implied, which means that the length of the pit should be approximately 5.5 meters;
• width - should not be too small, it is necessary that an adult can fit comfortably in the SA, it cannot be wide, otherwise not every passenger car will be able to drive into the pit without the risk of falling down, having left the track. Usually the width is taken 0.75-0.8 m, this is the most typical size;
• depth - calculated taking into account the height of an adult male (170-180 cm) plus a margin for convenient inspection and repair (15-20 cm), a typical pit depth is 1.85-2.00 m.

In general, builders always try to dig a little deeper - to reduce the depth quite easily with the help of stands, laying an additional layer of material at the bottom. But it is difficult to deepen the pit, since it is necessary to destroy the lower layer, re-lay out the floor, carry out hydro and thermal insulation.

With your own hands, you can make a pit of various designs:

• ordinary, with a floor and reinforced walls;
• with niches in which it will be possible to lay out the tool, small parts removed from the machine;
• with a cellar for economic or domestic needs.

The pit is always dug with a margin not only in depth, but also in width and height, since it is necessary to expect that all surfaces will be reinforced with concrete or brick, waterproofing will have to be done, ideally it would be nice to provide for thermal insulation.

How to make a floor in a garage pit

Having made a drawing of a hole, you can start digging it, but if a concrete floor has already been laid out in the garage, it will have to be cut and partially removed, for this you will need Circular Saw with discs for stone, a jackhammer, in extreme cases, you can use a hammer drill with a chisel. The future pit is marked with chalk, a corner is used to create straight lines.

When digging a hole of the required size, we use a building indicator or a plumb line, it is necessary that the walls are even, and the earth should be taken out immediately outside the garage. Then we are closely engaged in the floor in the pit of the garage, at the bottom we create a pillow support:

• lay out an even layer of rubble (approximately 5-10 cm thick);
• ramming, pouring a layer of sand;
• on top of the “layer cake” we cover with clay, we lay roofing material;
• for strength, we place reinforcement on top;
• pour the resulting structure with concrete mortar, let it dry.

Concrete can be made from various components and in different proportions, the most classic composition of the mixture is three parts building sand and one part dry cement. A layer of waterproofing is laid out on top of the concrete, all sorts of options are also possible here, there are several recipes. After the waterproofing layer, it will not be superfluous to take care of thermal insulation; sheet foam is usually used for this purpose. Then the whole structure is re-poured with concrete (layer 15-20 mm), after laying it is necessary that the solution is thoroughly dry.

Laying out the walls of the pit

When forming the side surfaces of the SA, clay is applied to the walls with the first layer, then it is fixed on it polyethylene film, the roofing material is spread. As in the option with the floor, a waterproofing coating is also provided here, the material can be single-layer or multi-layer polymer plates, bitumen, liquid rubber, mineral mixtures, and so on. If thermal insulation is needed, we lay foam, it is important to carefully process all joints and seams during hydro- and thermal insulation, it is necessary to ensure tightness. When laying walls with concrete, it is necessary:

• make formwork, it is made of wooden blocks, plywood or edged boards;
• reinforcing before pouring steel mesh with a rod diameter of 10-12 mm;
• pour the concrete solution, after it has completely dried, remove the formwork;
• if necessary, make niches in the walls.

If lighting is provided in the pit, care must be taken to lay internal wiring, the wires must be hidden in the corrugation, and they are usually fixed on reinforced mesh before pouring concrete (e.g. plastic screeds). The solution is not poured all at once, but in several stages from the bottom up in sections of 0.3-0.4 m, each layer must be allowed to dry (concreting can take from two to three days). Also, the walls can be laid out of brick, but here a slightly different technology is already required.

How to lay out the walls in a brick pit

Before laying out the walls with bricks, in the same way as when working with concrete, side surfaces first they are smeared with red clay, a polyethylene film, roofing felt, hydro- and heat-insulating layer are laid. Laying is carried out subject to the following conditions:

• bricks are placed in a checkerboard pattern;
• masonry is carried out in one layer along the width of the brick;
• the seams are carefully rubbed, and the corners are made in a reliable bundle;
• the upper brick row should protrude above the surface of the structure by about 5-10 cm. This is done so that the car cannot fall into the pit, and also so that the tool does not slip into it.

When laying out a brick pit, one must not forget about niches; for convenience, formwork can be built (but not necessary). Immediately after the work is done, it is impossible to use the pit, it is necessary to wait about five days for the mortar to set well and dry out, and the masonry to settle.

How to properly waterproof a pit in a garage

Waterproofing protection is a very important component of the inspection hole, especially when the groundwater runs high enough in the ground. At high humidity:

• the pit can be heated by water;
• the bottom of the car, constantly located on the SA, begins to rust;
• with insufficiently high-quality insulation, the excavated pit gradually collapses and becomes unusable.

In order for the inspection pit to serve for a long time, it is necessary to make the waterproofing of the pit in the garage very high quality, to use materials that could provide waterproof protection for many years. As waterproofing materials commonly used:

• various types of roofing materials;
• bituminous mixture (designed for 10-15 years of building service);
• polymer film (geotextile, can serve for more than a dozen years);
• mineral dry mixes, diluted with water before direct use;
• latex-based liquid rubber, its service life is from 20 years or more;
• a mixture of petroleum products with liquid clay (for the initial treatment of walls and floors).

If the groundwater passes high enough, even high-quality waterproofing does not guarantee reliable protection from moisture, only a well-executed drainage system with water drainage into a natural or artificial reservoir will help here.

Construction of a pit in the garage according to all the rules

To competently make a hole in accordance with all the rules, it is not enough just to dig a foundation pit, strengthen the walls and floor, it is also necessary:

• install natural and forced ventilation;
• install electric lights;
• build a shelter (mortgage frame), it will protect against accidental falling into a pit;
• think over the descent system (build a removable ladder or lay steps in the pit).

An even more “advanced” option is to make a cellar in a viewing hole, in which case it will be possible to store pickles for the winter, fresh vegetables in the garage.

How to make a vegetable pit in the garage

If there is already an inspection hole in the garage, the cellar is made separately, at the other end of the room or next to it, usually it is located at a small distance from the wall, about half a meter, and unlike the CL, it has slightly different dimensions:

• length - 2.5-3 m;
• width - 2-2.5 m;
• depth - about 1.7 m.

The dimensions of the cellar may differ from the above dimensions, it all depends on the size of the garage itself. In this building, a hermetic manhole cover, a ladder (it is better to make it from wood) must be provided. The cellar should include:

• moisture protection;
• ventilation;
• sleepy sinus.

The vegetable pit is supplemented with electricity and thermal insulation at will; before construction, it is important to foresee two points:

• you need to make sure that power wires do not pass under the future cellar, there is no water supply or gas pipeline;
• groundwater must pass below the foundation level of the proposed vegetable pit.

As in the case of creating a SA for the cellar, we also first dig a foundation pit, then:

• sprinkle on the bottom and tamp a layer of rubble, about 10-12 cm;
• we lay the next layer - building sand (about 15 cm), careful tamping is also required here;
• we fill the bottom of the pit with bitumen or other similar composition, if waterproofing is necessary, roofing material is installed (other similar material can also be used);
• we fill it with concrete, for structural strength it is desirable to reinforce it;
• give concrete mortar it is good to grab and dry, then we strengthen the walls - we fill it with concrete or lay it out with bricks (the latter option is most preferable).

The standard wall thickness is one and a half bricks; for strength and better waterproofing, we coat the masonry with bituminous mortar. The walls of the pit must be very strong, because the car can be placed anywhere in the garage, and it is undesirable to leave it for storage in a viewing hole.

The ceiling in the cellar is made in the form of a vault, in order to hold the ceiling bricks during construction, they are laid out on a plank template. top cellars can be made of concrete, as long as it is strong, and the hole is usually made in the middle. In a vegetable pit, the ceiling is often insulated, foam and expanded clay are used as materials to fix the insulation layer, it is poured with hot bitumen. Also, glass wool, sawdust with cement are used for insulation, thermal insulation can not be used in mild and warm climates.

In the cellar, it is necessary to make shelves for food supplies, containers for storing vegetables. Shelves are usually made of boards and beams, the ventilation of the room is mainly provided by natural ventilation. Forced ventilation provides air circulation more efficiently, but also requires more significant financial costs. Usually, an electric fan is used for forced exhaust, it is mounted directly in the ventilation pipe.

Pit thermal insulation

In a fairly cold climate, thermal insulation in the garage is of considerable importance, the addition of a thermal insulation layer allows you to save on heating, provide more comfortable temperature in room. As a heat-insulating material, extruded polystyrene, polystyrene is mainly used, and an expanded clay pillow also helps to keep warm.

Typically, the foam is laid on top of the vapor barrier film, then poured with concrete. Expanded clay is laid on the bottom of the inspection hole, playing the role of not only a heater, but also a stabilizer of the floor of the building.

The location of the cellar and pit for the car

The inspection hole in the garage can have a different location, placed both in the center and closer to the edge. Being in the center is convenient if the garage is narrow enough, and it does not have or at least a minimum of workbenches, tables, other furniture, there is no separate room. When a small auto repair shop is organized in garage conditions, it is more convenient to move the pit to one edge, but so that a car can safely and freely enter it. The cellar can be located anywhere, of course, if there is no viewing hole in the garage. When a pit is available, it is advisable to place the cellar at the end of the garage room, behind the SA.

Garage drainage system

A water drainage system is necessary in case of a high level of groundwater, high soil moisture. Drainage can be done different scheme, but there are basic rules for its construction:

• the drainage trench is dug deep to the level of the foundation of the pit;
• ditches should be located outside the garage, somewhere at a distance of half a meter from the building along its perimeter;
• a drainage well is required for drainage;
• drainage pipes are a single closed system with water drainage.

To prevent damage to the drainage system, a trench is laid from below in the trench sand and gravel pad a layer of about 10 cm, then the pipeline is covered with a geotextile film. A ravine can serve as a drainage well, if there are no natural recesses near the garage, any suitable container must be used, observing the conditions:

• the well should be located lower than 20 cm from the level of the lowest point of the pipeline;
• the outlet pipe of the drainage system must be suitable for the tank;
• mainly used as water storage plastic container, the iron vessel is prone to rust, will fail much faster and will not be able to work for its intended purpose.

Above drainage tubes a sand and gravel cushion is also made, compacting the soil over the drainage should be done carefully, trying not to damage the pipeline, water from the garage should be drained to a distance of at least 5 meters.

Pit lighting

Luminaires in the inspection hole provide comfortable conditions work, as lighting fixtures are usually used:

• stationary lamps in plafonds, designed for a voltage of 36 or 220 volts;
• carrying, it is better if it is with a long wire;
• low-power 12-volt lamps;
• LED lights;
• Rechargeable LED lamps.

36-volt lighting fixtures are the most popular auto repair fixtures, usually waterproof and safe to use. Quite often, 220 Volt lamps are also installed in the garage, since they do not require a step-down transformer, but here you have to take care of reliable grounding, and it is necessary to work with such lamps, observing safety precautions.

Rechargeable lighting they are quite expensive, difficult to repair, but sometimes you can’t do without them, for example, if there is no stationary power supply in the garage. As an option, you can arrange the transfer by taking a voltage of 12 V from a car battery, but in this case the light will be rather dim.

Pit closing

The cover covering the pit can be made of various materials:

• welded metal bars;
• edged board;
• plastic.

It can also be made from composite materials. The two most important qualities of a pit shelter are strength and light weight, the design should be easy to move away and support the weight of a person. If the car is often or for a long time left in the pit, it is advisable to make a tight cover, for example, from a forty board / bars, in this case, moisture will practically not settle on the bottom of the car.

The wooden shield should be sanded, impregnated with varnish, and the metal sanded and painted, such a frame will last a long time, will not rust or rot. For ease of removal and installation, the cover should be supplemented with one or two handles; a folding mechanism can also be provided in the design.

Pit ventilation in the garage

The type of ventilation largely depends on the size of the garage; for sufficiently large garage structures, you can limit yourself to natural ventilation; for small rooms, forced ventilation is necessary. The exhaust opening is almost always made from above, near the ceiling, in the room it is closed with a metal or plastic grate, the supply ventilation is installed below, no higher than 0.5 m from the floor.

They try to make an exhaust hole for natural ventilation on the leeward side, usually it is protected from rain and snow from the outside. garage roof. Power for the electric fan is taken from the local power supply or battery, the direction of movement of the blades is selected empirically.

Pit making tools

The number of tools used when digging a viewing hole depends on the complexity of the installation, at least you will need:

• measuring tape;
• chalk for marking;
• bayonet / shovels;
• containers for diluting solutions (buckets, barrels);
• building level or plumb;
• pick;
• electric drill;
• a hammer;
• large ruler, measuring corner;
• surface treatment materials – sandpaper, graters, etc.

If you need to heat up the bitumen, you will need a gas burner, prepare cement mortar easier and faster with a concrete mixer. Also additionally most often required:

• welding machine;
• angle grinder;
• knife or scissors for cutting materials;
• bitumen roller.

If you have to dismantle the concrete floor, you can not do without a concrete cutter, a jackhammer or a powerful puncher. When cutting concrete slab it should be borne in mind that steel reinforcement is located under the concrete layer (at a depth of approximately 50-100 mm), it will have to be cut with a circular saw.

Materials used

Almost any normally equipped inspection pit will require concrete, it can be:

• cement-sand mortar in the ratio of cement / sand 1:3 or 1:4;
• a mixture of cement, building sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1/3/4.5 (rough concrete).

Also for the manufacture of walls and floors will need:

• crushed stone, gravel;
• expanded clay;
• slurry;
• waterproofing materials (roofing material, bituminous mastic and resin);
• vapor barrier film;
• steel corner / channel;
• boards and wooden beams;
• thermal insulation materials (polystyrene, polypropylene, glass wool, etc.);
• steel bars or finished reinforced grating;
• nails;
• brick (in case of brickwork).

If a drainage system is provided, you will need pvc pipes, connecting parts, possibly a reservoir for a manhole. To give an aesthetic appearance viewing hole outside can be decorated tiles or other decorative materials.

The service life of the SA to a large extent depends on the quality of the materials used, the accuracy of the workers, the thoroughness of the waterproofing, and compliance with all construction rules. A well-made inspection pit will last for more than a dozen years, it will be very useful when carrying out repairs, car maintenance, for example, with its help it is very convenient to change the oil in the engine, gearbox, and repair the chassis.