Before proceeding with the installation of electrical wiring with your own hands, you need to choose the appropriate method of cabling, determine the materials and draw up the appropriate diagram. In this article we will tell readers what types and types of electrical wiring are, as well as how to lay them in residential buildings.

General classification

So, roughly speaking, electrical wiring is divided into the following types:

• open (cable lines are mounted on the surface of walls, ceilings or other building structures);
• hidden (the power grid is laid inside these very structures);
• outdoor (this type of wiring is used exclusively on the street, the wires are attached to the surface of buildings or between special supports).

In turn, each of the listed laying methods has its own varieties, which we will now discuss in more detail.

open

With open electrical wiring, the following cable laying methods are used:

• in a special electrical plinth;
• in cable channels;
• in trays;
• on insulators or porcelain rollers;
• on brackets;
• in pipes (including).

Well, the most interesting thing that we would like to tell you about is what types of electrical wiring exist according to the design, starting from the input shield. Here the wiring can be divided into the following options:

These types of electrical wiring were used (-are) in industrial and civil buildings. To choose the appropriate cable laying method, you need to be guided by

Marking work. Marking is carried out before the start of finishing work. When marking, they take into account the ease of use and maintenance of the wiring in operation, as well as compliance with the rules of electrical and fire safety.

Making passes and sections. Wire routes for hidden laying should be easily determined during the operation of the wiring.

To eliminate the possibility of accidental damage to the wiring during the subsequent installation of wall paintings, clocks, carpets, etc., hidden wiring routes are selected based on the following:

• - horizontal laying along the walls is carried out parallel to the lines of intersection of the walls with the ceiling at a distance of 10-20 cm from the ceiling; mains of socket outlets are laid along a horizontal line connecting socket outlets;
• - descents and ascents to switches, sockets and lamps are performed vertically at a distance of 10 cm parallel to the lines of door and window openings or corners of the room;
• - hidden wiring on ceilings (in plaster, in crevices and voids of reinforced concrete slabs) is performed along the shortest distance between the most convenient transition point to the ceiling from the junction box to the lamp;
• - marking of routes of hidden wiring, recessed into the grooves of walls and ceilings, can be carried out in the shortest direction from the inputs to the electrical consumers;
• - wires and cables are laid in places where the possibility of their mechanical damage is excluded, in other cases they must be protected.

Installation of electrical wiring. Installation of open and hidden electrical wiring is carried out at different stages of construction. We mount open wiring upon completion of all finishing work, up to painting and wallpapering; we fix the wires with tin brackets or on porcelain insulators every 0.5 m, or we lay the wires in the voids of electrical skirting boards and platbands. We enclose the sections of wires passing through the walls in metal (if the walls are made of combustible materials) or plastic tubes. It is advisable to avoid crossing the wires, but if this was not possible, then at the intersections we reinforce their insulation with three or four layers of insulating tape or an insulating tube. In the same way, we strengthen the insulation of the wiring at its intersection with metal pipelines, if the distance between the wiring and the pipeline is less than 10 cm.

Hidden electrical wiring is mounted in parts: wires passing from junction boxes to stationary lighting fixtures are mounted at the stage of construction of interfloor ceilings; wires passing in plastered grooves - before plastering; installation of junction boxes, sockets, switches and lamps is carried out after plastering.

But before taking on pliers, a soldering iron and other tools, take a pencil and several sheets of paper and draw up a detailed plan for the placement of internal electrical wiring: mark the route for the main wire line and the placement of junction boxes on it. Switches are installed near the front door, determine the location of the outlets, having thought in advance where the stationary electrical appliances and lighting fixtures will be located. For basements and unheated premises, wires in a special sheath are used or they are laid in metal pipes, electric lamps are covered with protective caps.

Make a plan on a scale, so it will be easier to determine the required length of the wire without additional measurements (we add 10-15 cm to the length of each segment to connect the wires to each other and connect to the contacts of sockets, switches, lamps). We advise you to save the drawn up plan-scheme, it will come in handy in case of possible repair of electrical wiring, and maybe much earlier: for example, if you need to drive a nail into the wall to hang a picture, you need to check the plan - if there is a hidden electrical wiring in this place .

Now you can proceed directly to the installation of internal wiring. Let's take it as a rule: we will place the wires either along strictly horizontal or strictly vertical lines; all turns are 90° only. We lay horizontal sections of electrical wiring parallel to the lines of intersection of walls and ceiling at a distance of 10-20 cm from the ceiling; the descent to sockets and switches is carried out along vertical lines.

Like any good rule, ours also has an exception: we lay the wires along the interfloor floors along the shortest distance between the junction box and the lamp, regardless of the angles of rotation, however, provided that the possibility of mechanical damage is excluded. When crossing hidden wiring wires with each other, with metal pipelines or when they pass through holes in the walls, we take the same methods of strengthening the insulation as when installing open wiring.

We punch grooves for hidden electrical wiring with a chisel and a hammer or we grind with an electric drill with a drill with a victorious solder. To fix the wires in the grooves to be plastered, we use metal brackets, rubber or plastic clamps, or “freezing” with alabaster mortar. With wooden plastered walls, a layer of sheet asbestos is placed under the wire or a bast of plaster is made on the wall with a thickness of at least 5 mm. When facing wooden walls with dry gypsum plaster, plywood, boards, the wire must be insulated with layers of sheet asbestos on both sides.

Rice. 5

Attention! Fastening wires (even flat ones) with nails is strictly prohibited. We temporarily isolate the ends of the wires fixed in the grooves, and after plastering the walls we connect them together in junction boxes or connect them to sockets, switches and lamps. It should also not be forgotten that touching exposed current-carrying elements is a danger to human health and life. The connection of wires with copper conductors to each other can be done both by soldering and by twisting; for aluminium, soldering without alternative.

Before soldering, we clean the ends of the wire from insulation by 0.5-1 cm, we solder with tin-lead solder (with a tin content of 30 or 40%); then we wrap the place of solder again with an insulating tape with an approach to the wire braid in both directions. We clean the ends of the wires before twisting in such a way that there are at least five turns in the twist; we also isolate the twisting points with insulating tape. In modern sockets and switches, for a more convenient connection of their contacts with wires, special holding clips are provided, in which the ends of the wires stripped of insulation are inserted straight; or clamps with screws, for such connections we clean the insulation at the end of the wires to a distance equal to three screw diameters.

The connection of wires is usually carried out in branching plastic or metal boxes. The connection of sockets, switches, cartridges, plugs is performed in various ways, depending on their design. External wiring in individual houses is most often made open, and, accordingly, its device is carried out according to all the above-mentioned rules for installing open wiring. The entry of electrical wiring into the house, its connection to the meter and to the main power line must be carried out by a professional electrician.

Installation of switches. Lighting switches or a cord for ceiling switches are installed:

• - in accessible places on the wall near the doors, from the side of the door handle, so that they are not closed by the door when it is opened;
• - for toilets, baths and other rooms with damp and especially damp conditions - in adjacent rooms with the best environmental conditions;
• - in storerooms, basements, in the attic and in other locked rooms - in front of the entrance to these rooms at a height of 1.5-1.8 m from the floor of the room.

Installing sockets. Plug sockets are planned for installation in places convenient for use, depending on the purpose of the room and interior design. They must be located at a distance of at least 0.5 m from grounded metal structures (pipelines for heating, water supply, gas pipelines, etc.); for kitchens, this distance is not standardized.

Wiring in rooms with high humidity. In these rooms, as a rule, hidden electrical wiring is used; wires are laid in PVC or other insulating pipes; open wiring is allowed with protected wires and cables. Laying wires in steel pipes is prohibited.

In damp, damp and especially damp rooms (kitchens, bathrooms, toilets, etc.):

• -- it is necessary to reduce the length of the laying of wires and cables with the greatest distance from the pipes of the water supply and sewerage;
• - switches are placed outside these rooms, and lamps - on the wall adjacent to the corridor;
• -- Installation of sockets in bathrooms, showers and toilets is not allowed.

Even 15 - 20 years ago, the load on the power grid was relatively small, but today the presence of a large number of household appliances has provoked an increase in loads at times. Old wires are far from always able to withstand heavy loads and over time there is a need to replace them. Laying electrical wiring in a house or apartment is a matter that requires certain knowledge and skills from the master. First of all, this concerns knowledge of the rules for wiring electrical wiring, the ability to read and create wiring diagrams, as well as skills in electrical installation. Of course, you can do the wiring with your own hands, but for this you must adhere to the rules and recommendations below.

Wiring Rules

All construction activities and building materials are strictly regulated by a set of rules and requirements - SNiP and GOST. As for the installation of electrical wiring and everything related to electricity, you should pay attention to the Rules for the Arrangement of Electrical Installations (abbreviated PUE). This document prescribes what and how to do when working with electrical equipment. And if we want to lay electrical wiring, then we will need to study it, especially the part that relates to the installation and selection of electrical equipment. The following are the basic rules that should be followed when installing electrical wiring in a house or apartment:

• key wiring elements such as distribution boxes, meters, sockets and switches should be easily accessible;
• installation of switches is carried out at a height of 60 - 150 cm from the floor. The switches themselves are located in places where the open door does not prevent access to them. This means that if the door opens to the right, the switch is on the left side and vice versa. The wire to the switches is laid from top to bottom;
• sockets are recommended to be installed at a height of 50 - 80 cm from the floor. This approach is dictated by flood safety. Also, sockets are installed at a distance of more than 50 cm from gas and electric stoves, as well as heating radiators, pipes and other grounded objects. The wire to the sockets is laid from the bottom up;
• the number of sockets in the room must correspond to 1 pc. for 6 m2. The kitchen is an exception. It is equipped with as many sockets as necessary to connect household appliances. Installation of sockets in the toilet is prohibited. For sockets in the bathroom outside, a separate transformer is equipped;
• wiring inside or outside the walls is carried out only vertically or horizontally, and the installation location is displayed on the wiring plan;
• wires are laid at a certain distance from pipes, ceilings and other things. For horizontal ones, a distance of 5 - 10 cm from floor beams and cornices and 15 cm from the ceiling is required. From the floor, the height is 15 - 20 cm. Vertical wires are placed at a distance of more than 10 cm from the edge of the door or window opening. The distance from the gas pipes must be at least 40 cm;
• when laying external or hidden wiring, it is necessary to ensure that it does not come into contact with the metal parts of building structures;
• when laying several parallel wires, the distance between them must be at least 3 mm or each wire must be hidden in a protective box or corrugation;
• wiring and connection of wires is carried out inside special junction boxes. Connection points are carefully isolated. The connection of copper and aluminum wire to each other is strictly prohibited;
• grounding and neutral wires are bolted to the devices.

Project and wiring diagram

Work on laying electrical wiring begins with the creation of a project and a wiring diagram. This document is the basis for future house wiring. Creating a project and a scheme is quite a serious matter and it is better to entrust it to experienced professionals. The reason is simple - the safety of those living in a house or apartment depends on it. Project creation services will cost a certain amount, but it's worth it.

Those who are used to doing everything with their own hands will have to, adhering to the rules described above, as well as having studied the basics of electrics, independently make a drawing and calculations for the loads on the network. There are no particular difficulties in this, especially if there is at least some understanding of what electric current is, and what are the consequences of careless handling of it. The first thing you need is the symbols. They are shown in the photo below:

Using them, we make a drawing of the apartment and outline lighting points, installation locations for switches and sockets. How many and where they are installed is described above in the rules. The main task of such a scheme is to indicate the installation location of devices and wires. When creating a wiring diagram, it is important to think in advance where, how much and what household appliances will be.

The next step in creating the circuit will be the wiring to the connection points on the circuit. At this point it is necessary to dwell in more detail. The reason is the type of wiring and connection. There are several such types - parallel, serial and mixed. The latter is the most attractive due to the economical use of materials and maximum efficiency. To facilitate the laying of wires, all connection points are divided into several groups:

• lighting of the kitchen, corridor and living rooms;
• toilet and bathroom lighting;
• power supply of sockets in living rooms and corridors;
• power supply for kitchen sockets;
• power supply socket for electric stove.

The above example is just one of many lighting group options. The main thing to understand is that if you group the connection points, the amount of materials used is reduced and the circuit itself is simplified.

Important! To simplify the wiring to the sockets, the wires can be laid under the floor. Wires for overhead lighting are laid inside the floor slabs. These two methods are good to use if you do not want to ditch the walls. In the diagram, such wiring is marked with a dotted line.

Also in the wiring project, the calculation of the estimated current strength in the network and the materials used are indicated. The calculation is performed according to the formula:

I=P/U;

where P is the total power of all devices used (Watts), U is the mains voltage (Volts).

For example, a 2 kW kettle, 10 60 W bulbs, a 1 kW microwave, a 400 W refrigerator. Current strength 220 volts. As a result (2000+(10x60)+1000+400)/220=16.5 Amps.

In practice, the current strength in the network for modern apartments rarely exceeds 25 A. Based on this, all materials are selected. First of all, this concerns the cross section of the wiring. To facilitate the selection, the table below shows the main parameters of the wire and cable:

The table shows the most accurate values, and since the current can fluctuate quite often, a small margin is required for the wire or cable itself. Therefore, all wiring in an apartment or house is recommended to be made of the following materials:

• wire VVG-5 * 6 (five cores and a cross section of 6 mm2) is used in houses with a three-phase power supply to connect the lighting shield to the main shield;
• wire VVG-2 * 6 (two cores and a cross section of 6 mm2) is used in houses with a two-phase power supply to connect the lighting shield to the main shield;
• wire VVG-3 * 2.5 (three cores and a cross section of 2.5 mm2) is used for most of the wiring from the lighting panel to junction boxes and from them to sockets;
• wire VVG-3 * 1.5 (three cores and a cross section of 1.5 mm2) is used for wiring from junction boxes to lighting points and switches;
• wire VVG-3 * 4 (three cores and a cross section of 4 mm2) is used for electric stoves.

To find out the exact length of the wire, you will have to run a little around the house with a tape measure, and add another 3-4 meters of stock to the result. All wires are connected to the lighting panel, which is installed at the entrance. Protection circuit breakers are mounted in the shield. Usually this is an RCD for 16 A and 20 A. The former are used for lighting and switches, the latter for sockets. For an electric stove, a separate RCD is installed at 32 A, but if the power of the stove exceeds 7 kW, then an RCD is installed at 63 A.

Now you need to calculate how many sockets and distribution boxes you need. Everything is pretty simple here. Just look at the diagram and make a simple calculation. In addition to the materials described above, various consumables will be required, such as electrical tape and PPE caps for connecting wires, as well as pipes, cable channels or boxes for electrical wiring, socket boxes.

Installation of electrical wiring

There is nothing super complicated in the work on the installation of electrical wiring. The main thing during installation is to follow the safety rules and follow the instructions. All work can be done alone. From the installation tool, you will need a tester, a puncher or a grinder, a drill or a screwdriver, wire cutters, pliers and a Phillips and slotted screwdriver. A laser level would be helpful. Since without it it is quite difficult to make vertical and horizontal markings.

Important! When carrying out repairs with the replacement of wiring in an old house or apartment with hidden wiring, you must first find and, if necessary, remove the old wires. For these purposes, a wiring sensor is used.

Marking and preparation of channels for electrical wiring

We start installation with markup. To do this, using a marker or pencil, we put a mark on the wall where the wire will be laid. At the same time, we observe the rules for placing wires. The next step is to mark the places for the installation of lighting fixtures, sockets and switches and a lighting panel.

Important! In new houses, a special niche is provided for the lighting shield. In the old ones, such a shield is simply hung on the wall.

Having finished with the markup, we proceed either to the installation of wiring in an open way, or to the chasing of walls for hidden wiring. First, with the help of a perforator and a special nozzle of the crown, holes are cut out for the installation of sockets, switches and junction boxes. For the wires themselves, strobes are made using a grinder or a puncher. In any case, there will be a lot of dust and dirt. The depth of the groove of the strobe should be about 20 mm, and the width should be such that all wires fit freely into the strobe.

As for the ceiling, there are several options for resolving the issue with the placement and fixing of the wiring. The first - if the ceiling is suspended or suspended, then all the wiring is simply fixed to the ceiling. The second - a shallow strobe is made for wiring. The third - the wiring is hidden in the ceiling. The first two options are extremely simple to implement. But for the third, some explanations will have to be made. In panel houses, ceilings with internal voids are used, it is enough to make two holes and stretch the wires inside the ceiling.

Having finished with the gating, we proceed to the last stage of preparation for wiring. Wires to bring them into the room must be pulled through the walls. Therefore, you will have to punch holes with a puncher. Usually such holes are made in the corner of the premises. We also make a hole for the wire plant from the switchboard to the lighting panel. Having finished the wall chasing, we begin the installation.

Installation of open wiring

We begin installation with the installation of a lighting shield. If a special niche was created for it, then we place it there, if not, then we simply hang it on the wall. We install an RCD inside the shield. Their number depends on the number of lighting groups. The shield assembled and ready for connection looks like this: in the upper part there are zero terminals, grounding terminals at the bottom, automatic machines are installed between the terminals.

Now we start the wire VVG-5 * 6 or VVG-2 * 6 inside. From the side of the switchboard, the electric wiring is connected by an electrician, so for now we will leave it without connection. Inside the lighting panel, the input wire is connected as follows: we connect the blue wire to zero, the white wire to the top contact of the RCD, and connect the yellow wire with a green stripe to ground. RCD automata are interconnected in series at the top using a jumper from a white wire. Now let's move on to the wiring in an open way.

On the lines outlined earlier, we fix boxes or cable channels for electrical wiring. Often, with open wiring, they try to place the cable channels themselves near the plinth, or vice versa, almost under the very ceiling. We fix the wiring box with self-tapping screws in increments of 50 cm. We make the first and last hole in the box at a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the edge. To do this, we drill holes in the wall with a puncher, hammer the dowel inside and fix the cable channel with self-tapping screws.

Another distinctive feature of open wiring are sockets, switches and distribution boxes. All of them are hung on the wall, instead of being walled in. Therefore, the next step is to install them in place. It is enough to attach them to the wall, mark the places for fasteners, drill holes and fix them in place.

Next, we proceed to the wiring. We start by laying the main line and from the sockets to the lighting panel. As already noted, we use the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire for this. For convenience, we start from the connection point towards the shield. We hang a label on the end of the wire indicating what kind of wire and where it comes from. Next, we lay the wires VVG-3 * 1.5 from switches and lighting fixtures to junction boxes.

Inside the junction boxes, we connect the wires using PPE or carefully insulate them. Inside the lighting panel, the main wire VVG-3 * 2.5 is connected as follows: brown or red core - phase, connected to the bottom of the RCD, blue - zero, connected to the zero bus at the top, yellow with a green stripe - ground to the bus at the bottom. With the help of a tester, we “ring” all the wires in order to eliminate possible errors. If everything is in order, we call an electrician and connect to the switchboard.

Installation of hidden electrical wiring

Hidden wiring is quite simple. A significant difference from the open one is only in the way the wires are hidden from the eyes. The rest of the steps are almost the same. First, we install a lighting shield and RCDs, after which we start and connect the input cable from the side of the switchboard. We also leave it unconnected. This will be done by an electrician. Next, we install distribution boxes and socket boxes inside the niches made.

Now let's move on to the wiring. We are the first to lay the main line from the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire. If it was planned, then we lay the wires to the sockets in the floor. To do this, we put the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire into a pipe for electrical wiring or a special corrugation and lay it to the point where the wire is output to the sockets. There we place the wire inside the strobe and put it into the socket. The next step will be laying the VVG-3 * 1.5 wire from switches and lighting points to junction boxes, where they are connected to the main wire. We isolate all connections with PPE or electrical tape.

At the end, we “ring” the entire network with the help of a tester for possible errors and connect it to the lighting panel. The connection method is similar to that described for open wiring. Upon completion, we close the strobes with gypsum putty and invite an electrician to connect it to the switchboard.

Laying electricians in a house or apartment for an experienced craftsman is quite an easy task. But for those who are not well versed in electrics, you should take the help of experienced professionals from start to finish. This, of course, will cost money, but this way you can protect yourself from mistakes that can lead to a fire.

Internal is the wiring laid inside the premises.

External is the wiring laid along the outer walls of buildings and structures, under awnings, etc., as well as between buildings on supports (no more than four spans 25 m long) outside streets and roads. Open and hidden wiring. Wiring according to the method of execution can be open and hidden. Open wiring includes wiring laid on the surface of walls, ceilings, supports, trusses and other building elements of buildings and structures. In this case, wires and cables are laid directly on the surface of walls, ceilings, on rollers, insulators, on cables, on brackets, in pipes, in flexible metal sleeves or directly by gluing to the surface. Open wiring can be stationary, mobile and portable.

Open electrical wiring includes wiring laid inside the structural elements of buildings and structures (in walls, floors, ceilings), as well as in plastered grooves, without grooves under a layer of wet plaster, in closed channels and voids in building structures, etc. Wires and cables at the same time, they are laid either in pipes, flexible metal sleeves, boxes, or without them.

Hidden electrical wiring completely protects wires and cables from mechanical damage and environmental influences.

Replaceable and non-replaceable wiring. Concealed wiring can be replaceable and non-replaceable:

Replaceable is such a wiring that allows you to replace wires during operation without destroying building structures. In this case, the wires are laid in pipes or channels of building structures;

Non-replaceable wiring cannot be dismantled without destroying structures or plaster. Designing electrical wiring in a garden house, cottage or residential building begins with drawing an electrical wiring diagram tied to the floor plan of the house on a scale of 1:100 (1:200).

Wiring on the plan is applied in a single-line design. Lamps, switches, sockets, protection devices in the drawings of plans are indicated by conventional signs.

On fig. 1a shows the electrical wiring diagram in a three-room room.

Rice. 1. Schemes of electrical wiring: a - a diagram of a three-room room with electrical wiring; b - a diagram of the simultaneous switching on and off of the lamps; c - circuit with a switch for 4 positions; d - a circuit with switching on and off lamps from two places; e - a circuit for turning lamps on and off from more than two places: 1 - two line wires; 2 - apartment lighting panel; 3 - single-pole switch; 4 - socket; 5 – two-pole switch; 6 - three wires in a line; on - switch

In room I two electric bulbs are installed, which are simultaneously turned on and off by a common switch. The schematic diagram of the wiring in room I is shown in fig. 1 b.

In room II a four-switch switch is installed (Fig. 1 c). In the switch position shown in the diagram, both lamps are on. The first turn to the right will turn both lamps off, the second turn will turn on the L1 lamp, and the third turn will turn the L2 lamp on. The room has a power outlet.

In room III having two inputs, four lamps are installed that light up simultaneously (Fig. 1d), and two switches. Any of the switches can turn all the lamps on or off.

On fig. 1 e shows a lighting scheme in which the lamps can be switched on from more than two places.

On the plan of the premises with applied electrical wiring near the lines indicate the brand and section of the wire or cable, conditionally indicate the method of laying, for example: T - in metal pipes, P - in plastic pipes, Mp - in flexible metal sleeves, I - on insulators, P - on rollers, Ts - on cables . The number of wires, cores in the wire and their cross-sectional area are shown as a product. For example, the designation PV2 (1x2.5) is deciphered as follows: two single-core wires of the PV brand with a cross section of a current-carrying core of 2.5 mm 2. The number of wires in the amount of more than two is indicated by serifs at an angle of 45 ° to the line. For lamps, the fraction indicates the lamp power (W) in the numerator, and the height of the suspension above the floor (m) in the denominator. The receiver of electrical energy is also denoted by a fraction. The numerator indicates the number according to the plan, and the denominator indicates the rated power (kW). In various climatic zones of the country, a variety of building materials and structures are used in the construction of garden houses, cottages and summer cottages.

All buildings under construction are divided into three categories:

According to the degree of flammability of building materials and structures;

According to environmental conditions;

According to the degree of electric shock.

In accordance with the requirements of the "Building Norms and Rules" (SNiP 111-33-76), all building materials and structures are divided into three groups: combustible, slow-burning and fireproof.

The characteristics of the degree of flammability of materials and structures are given in tab. one.

Table 1. Flammability of building materials and structures

Fireproof materials include all natural and artificial inorganic materials used in construction; metals, gypsum and gypsum boards with an organic matter content of up to 8% by weight; mineral wool boards on a synthetic, starch or bitumen binder with its content up to 6% by weight.

Slow-burning materials include materials consisting of non-combustible and combustible components, for example, asphalt concrete, gypsum and concrete materials containing more than 8% by weight of organic aggregate; mineral wool boards on a bituminous binder with its content of 7-15%; clay-straw materials with a density of at least 900 kg/m 3 ; wood subjected to deep impregnation with flame retardants, fibrolite, textolite, other polymeric materials.

All other organic materials are combustible.

The "Rules for the Installation of Electrical Installations" (PUE) adopted the following classification of premises according to environmental conditions:

1. Dry: relative humidity in them does not exceed 60% - these are residential heated premises.

2. Humid: relative humidity does not exceed 75%, vapors or condensing moisture are released only temporarily and, moreover, in small quantities (unheated premises, living-house hallways, warehouses, sheds, utility rooms, kitchens, etc.).

3. Raw: relative humidity exceeds 75% for a long time.

4. Extra damp: relative humidity close to 100%. The ceiling, walls, floor and objects in the room are covered with moisture (bathrooms, shower rooms, toilets, basements, vegetable stores, greenhouses, etc.).

5. Hot: the temperature exceeds 30 ° C for a long time (steam rooms, baths, attics, etc.).

6. Dusty: they may contain abundant release of process dust in such an amount that it can settle on the wires and penetrate into the electrical equipment.

7. Premises with a chemically active environment: according to the conditions of production, vapors are constantly or long-term contained or deposits are formed that act destructively on the insulation and current-carrying parts of electrical equipment (rooms for livestock and poultry, etc.).

8. Explosive premises and outdoor installations: explosive mixtures of flammable gases or vapors with air or other oxidizing gases, as well as combustible dusts and fibers with air (garages, gas storages and oil products, etc.) can be formed.

9. Fire hazardous premises and outdoor installations: combustible substances are stored or used here (barns, barns, etc.).

According to the degree of danger of electric shock to a person, the premises are divided into three categories:

Premises with increased danger: damp, hot, with conductive dust and conductive floors (metal, earthen, reinforced concrete, etc.), as well as those in which a person can simultaneously touch metal structures connected to the ground and metal designs of electric motors and other electrical apparatus;

Particularly dangerous premises: especially damp or with a chemically active environment, as well as those in which two or more conditions of increased danger are combined;

Premises without increased danger: they do not contain conditions that create an increased and special danger.

AT tab. 2 an approximate description of the premises of country houses, cottages and residential buildings is given in terms of installation and maintenance of electric lighting wiring, the use of household electrical appliances and mechanisms with an electric drive.

Attention!

Electrical wiring used in residential and country houses must be safe, reliable and economical. Incorrectly designed and carelessly executed electrical wiring can lead to overheating and ignition of building structures and finishing coatings.

The reason for this may also be the wrong choice of the cross section of the conductors.

Table 2. Characteristics of premises and outbuildings

Wires and cables

In order to save scarce wires with copper conductors, wires and cables mainly with aluminum conductors are currently used for electrical wiring.

Copper wires and cables are laid only in cases stipulated by the "Rules for the Design and Operation of Electrical Installations", for example, in fire and explosion hazardous rooms, in buildings with combustible ceilings.

The laying of wires and cables with aluminum conductors in principle does not differ from the laying of wires and cables with copper conductors, but is carried out with more care in order to avoid damage to the conductors due to their lower mechanical strength compared to copper ones. When working with aluminum wires, you should not allow multiple kinks in the same place, cuts in the cores when stripping the insulation.

A wire is one uninsulated or one or more insulated metal conductive core, on top of which, depending on the conditions of laying and operation, there may be a non-metallic sheath, winding or braid with fibrous materials. Wires can be bare and insulated.

Bare wires are wires that do not have protective or insulating coatings on top of the conductive cores. Bare wires of the PSO, PS, A, AS, etc. brands are used, as a rule, for overhead power lines.

Insulated wires are wires in which the conductive cores are covered with insulation, and on top of the insulation there is a braid of cotton yarn or a sheath of rubber, plastic or metal tape. Insulated wires are divided into protected and unprotected.

Insulated wires are called protected, having a sheath over electrical insulation designed to seal and protect against external climatic influences. These include wires of the brands APRN, PRHD, APRF, etc.

Insulated wires are called unprotected if they do not have a protective sheath over the electrical insulation (wires of the APRTO, PRD, APPR, APPV, PPV, etc.)

A cord is a wire consisting of two or more insulated flexible or highly flexible conductors with a cross section of up to 1.5 mm 2, twisted or laid in parallel, covered with a protective insulating sheath.

A cable is one or more insulated cores twisted together, enclosed in a common rubber, plastic, metal sheath (NVG, KG, AVVG, etc.).

For electrical wiring of power and lighting networks carried out inside garden houses and summer cottages, as well as on the territory of garden plots, insulated installation wires and unarmored power cables with rubber or plastic insulation in a metal, rubber or plastic sheath with a cross section of phase conductors up to 16 mm 2 are used.

The current-carrying conductors of the installation wires have standard sections in mm 2: 0.35; 0.5; 0.75; 1.0; 1.5; 2.5; 4.0; 6.0; 10.0; 16.0 etc.

The wire cross section is calculated using the following formula:

S \u003d? D 2 / 4,

where S is the wire section, mm 2;

? - a number equal to 3.14;

D – wire diameter, mm.

The diameter of the current-carrying core (without insulation) is measured with a caliper or micrometer. The cross section of the cores of multi-wire wires is determined by the sum of the sections of all the wires included in the core.

The insulation of the installation wires is designed for a specific operating voltage. Therefore, when choosing a brand of wire, it should be borne in mind that the operating voltage for which the wire insulation is designed must be greater than the voltage of the supply network. The mains voltage is standardized: - line voltage 380 V, phase voltage - 220 V, and installation wires are produced for a rated voltage of 380 V and more, therefore, as a rule, they are suitable for electrical wiring.

The installation wires must match the connected load. For the same brand and the same wire section, loads of different magnitudes are allowed, which depend on the laying conditions. For example, wires or cables laid out in the open cool better than those laid in pipes or hidden under plaster. Wires with rubber insulation allow a long-term heating temperature of their cores, not exceeding 65 °C, and wires with plastic insulation - 70 °C.

The cross section of the conductors is selected based on the maximum allowable heating of the conductors, at which the insulation of the wires is not damaged. Permissible continuous loads on wires, cords and cables are given in tab. 3–7.

Brands of wires and cords with rubber and PVC insulation, their areas of application and laying methods are given in tab. eight.

Table 3

Table 4. Permissible loads on aluminum wires with rubber and PVC insulation

Table 5. Permissible loads on copper wires with rubber insulation in metal protective sheaths and cables with copper conductors, with rubber insulation in lead, PVC, nairite or rubber sheaths, armored and unarmored

(*) Current loads apply to wires and cables both with and without earth core.

Table 6. Permissible loads on copper wires and cords with rubber or PVC insulation
Table 7. Permissible loads on cables with aluminum conductors, with rubber or plastic insulation in aluminum, lead, PVC and rubber sheaths, armored and unarmored

Table 8. Applications and methods of laying insulated wires and cords with rubber and PVC insulation

Technical requirements for electrical wiring

Protected wires and cables of the type APRN, APRV, AVRG, APRG, AVVG, etc. are allowed to be laid directly on the surface of walls and ceilings. The height of their laying in insulating pipes with a metal sheath or in flexible metal hoses from the floor level is not standardized.

Open wiring with unprotected insulated wires in rooms without increased danger should be laid at a height of at least 2 m from the floor, and in rooms with increased danger and especially dangerous rooms - at a height of at least 2.5 m from the floor. If this condition cannot be maintained in a real situation, then such wiring must be protected from mechanical damage or protected wires and cables must be used.

Protection of electrical wiring in places of possible mechanical damage is carried out with steel boxes, corners, thin-walled pipes, metal hoses, fences or hidden.

During open laying of protected wires and cables with a sheath of combustible materials and unprotected wires, the clear distance from the wires (cable) to the surface of combustible bases must be at least 10 mm. To ensure this condition, rollers, insulators, clips, etc. are used. If it is impossible to provide the specified distance, the wire or cable is separated from the surface by a layer of non-combustible material, for example, asbestos, protruding from each side of the wire or cable by at least 10 mm.

When hidden wiring of wires and cables with sheaths of combustible materials and unprotected wires in the voids of building structures, in grooves, etc. with the presence of combustible structures, wires and cables are protected by a continuous layer of fireproof material from all sides where there is a combustible material of the building structure.

When laying wires and cables openly along walls, partitions and ceilings, you must adhere to the architectural line of the room. Descents to switches and socket outlets are laid vertically (along a plumb line); horizontal sections of wiring - parallel to the cornices; branches to the lamps - perpendicular to the lines of intersection of the walls and ceiling. In rooms pasted over with wallpaper, it is recommended to carry out the upper horizontal wiring above the upper edge of the wallpaper.

Apartment shields with an electric meter are installed at a height of 0.8–1.7 m from the floor in a place that excludes mechanical damage to the shield and has free access to maintenance (in case of emergency switching on and off of circuit breakers).

If the apartment panel has two or more automatic switches, then it is advisable to connect the sockets and the general lighting network to different machines.

Connections and branches of wires and cables laid hidden or open in pipes and metal sleeves are made in junction and junction boxes. Junction and junction boxes must be designed in accordance with the laying methods and environmental conditions.

Making connections. Connections and branches of wires and cables are mainly performed on screw terminals or by crimping. Single-core and twisted wires laid openly on rollers and insulators are connected by twisting followed by soldering or welding.

The places of connection and branching of the cores of wires and cables, connecting and branching clamps must have insulation equivalent to the insulation of the wires, and must not experience mechanical tension forces. At the junction of wire and cable cores, their supply is provided, which ensures the possibility of reconnection. It is also necessary to be able to access for inspection and repair of junctions and branches of wires and cables.

Junction boxes, boxes for switches and socket outlets with hidden wiring are embedded in a wall or partition so that their edges coincide with the surface of the plaster.

When laying hidden wires before their final sealing with wet or dry gypsum plaster, check the wiring for breakage of the current-carrying conductors of the wires and a short circuit in the network.

For wiring in damp, damp rooms and outdoor wiring, lamps, electrical installation devices of a protected design with sealing covers and stuffing box seals are used.

The height of suspension of fittings in rooms without increased danger must be at least 2 m from the floor to the cartridge. If the ceilings are low and these requirements cannot be met, then luminaires are used in which access to the lamps is impossible without a tool. In rooms with increased danger and especially dangerous when the installation height of lamps above the floor is less than 2.5 m, lamps are used, the design of which excludes the possibility of access to the lamp without a special tool, or lamps rated for voltage not higher than 42 V.

The length of the wires in damp, damp and especially damp rooms should be kept to a minimum. Wiring is recommended to be placed outside these rooms, and lamps - on the wall closest to the wiring.

Connection of copper and aluminum wires. Electrical wiring wires with lamp wires are connected in ceiling sockets. To connect the aluminum wires of the line with the copper reinforcing wires of the fixtures, clamping blocks are used.

When laying two or more flat wires in parallel with open and hidden wiring, the wires should be laid flat on the wall or ceiling, in rows with a gap of 3-5 mm. Laying flat wires in bundles or bundles is not allowed.

In open wiring, the fastening of unprotected wires with metal brackets should be carried out with the installation of an insulating gasket between the wires and the brackets.

Laying in pipes. When laying wires and cables in pipes, flexible metal sleeves provide the possibility of replacing wires and cables.

Hidden and open laying of wires and cables on heated surfaces (stoves, fireplaces, chimneys, etc.) is prohibited, since wires and cables become unusable due to drying of the insulation and, as a result, to a fire.

The bending radius of unprotected insulated wires must be at least three times the outer diameter of the wire; protected and flat wires - at least six times the outer diameter or width of the flat wire.

Cables with plastic insulation in a PVC sheath are laid with a bending radius of at least six times, and with rubber insulation - at least ten times the outer diameter of the cable.

Installation of all types of wiring is allowed at a temperature not lower than minus 15 C. At low temperatures, some insulating materials become brittle; when they are bent, cracks form in the insulation, which during operation can cause damage to wires and cables.

Types of electrical wiring and methods of laying wires and cables are selected depending on the characteristics of the environment in accordance with the PUE, SNiP and, in relation to the conditions of garden houses and cottages, are given in tab. 9. For each type of wiring, how it is done, and the environment, the table lists several brands of wires. The first of the brands is preferred, and only if necessary, it can be replaced by the next. Wires should be used for their main purpose, for example, APPV, PPV wires - for open laying directly on fireproof bases, APRTO - for laying in pipes, APRI - for open laying on rollers or insulators.

The selected type of wiring and the method of laying wires and cables must also comply with fire safety requirements ( tab. 9).

Table 9. Types of electrical wiring and methods of laying wires used depending on the environment

Notes:

1) Except for particularly damp rooms.

2) On rollers for damp places.

3) It is forbidden to use steel pipes with a wall thickness of 2 mm or less in damp and especially damp rooms and outdoor installations.

4) With a lining of asbestos sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm, protruding on both sides of the wire or pipe by 10 mm.

5) In a continuous layer of plaster, alabaster, cement mortar or concrete with a thickness of at least 10 mm.

6) In a plastered furrow, in a continuous layer of alabaster plaque with a thickness of at least 5 mm or under a layer of sheet asbestos with a layer thickness of at least 3 mm.

7) Under a layer of wet plaster with a thickness of at least 5 mm.

8) Under a layer of cement or alabaster plaque with a thickness of at least 10 mm.

9) The plastering of the pipe is carried out with a continuous layer of plaster, alabaster with a thickness of at least 10 mm.

10) In a continuous layer of alabaster (cement) coating with a thickness of at least 10 mm or between two layers of sheet asbestos with a thickness of at least 3 mm, protruding from each side of the wire by at least 10 mm.

11) Under a layer of wet plaster with a lining under the wire of a layer of sheet asbestos with a thickness of at least 3 mm or along a bast of plaster with a thickness of at least 10 mm, protruding from each side of the wire by at least 10 mm.

Table 10. Selection of the type of electrical wiring and methods of laying wires and cables according to fire safety conditions

Electrical wiring work

Before purchasing electrical materials and devices and starting electrical work, the owner of a garden house or cottage needs to solve a number of preparatory issues:

Draw up a schematic diagram of electrical wiring, tying it to the planning drawing of a garden house or cottage;

Determine the type of wiring (open, hidden) and the method of laying wires and cables, depending on environmental conditions and premises according to the degree of relative humidity. In areas with high humidity, the requirements for both materials and the quality of electrical work are significantly increased;

Determine the degree of flammability of building materials;

Consider the type of lighting depending on the purpose of the room, lighting standards, choose the type and design of lamps: ceiling or wall, with incandescent lamps or fluorescent lamps;

Determine the number and placement of sockets, switches, junction boxes, routes for laying wires and cables;

Determine the power consumption of electrical consumers, respectively select the type of meter and type of protection;

Determine the cross section of wires and cables.

Internal wiring

The execution of internal wiring consists of the following operations:

Marking work;

Execution of passages and intersections;

Installation of electrical wiring;

Installation of switches, socket outlets, lamps;

Installation of apartment shields;

Electrical wiring check.

Marking is carried out before the start of finishing work in the premises of a garden house or cottage. When marking, they take into account the ease of use and maintenance of the wiring in operation, as well as compliance with the rules of electrical and fire safety.

Wire routes for hidden laying should be easily determined during the operation of the wiring.

To eliminate the possibility of accidental damage to the wiring during the subsequent installation of wall paintings, clocks, carpets, etc., the hidden wiring route is selected based on the following:

Horizontal laying along the walls is carried out parallel to the lines of intersection of the walls with the ceiling at a distance of 10–20 cm from the ceiling. Mains of socket outlets are laid along a horizontal line connecting socket outlets;

Descents and ascents to switches, sockets and lamps are performed vertically at a distance of 10 cm parallel to the lines of door and window openings or corners of the room;

Hidden wiring on ceilings (in plaster, in crevices and voids of reinforced concrete slabs) is performed along the shortest distance between the most convenient transition point to the ceiling from the junction box to the lamp;

The marking of the routes of hidden wiring, recessed into the grooves of walls and ceilings, can be carried out in the shortest direction from the inputs to the electrical consumers;

Wires and cables are laid in places where the possibility of their mechanical damage is excluded, otherwise they must be protected.

Lighting switches or a cord for ceiling switches are installed:

In accessible places on the wall near the doors, on the side of the door handle, so that they are not closed by the door when it is opened;

For toilets, baths and other rooms with damp and especially damp conditions - in adjacent rooms with better environmental conditions;

In storerooms, basements, in the attic and in other locked rooms - in front of the entrance to these rooms;

At a height of 1.5–1.8 m from the floor of the room.

Plug sockets are planned for installation in places convenient for use, depending on the purpose of the room and interior design. They must be located at a distance of at least 0.5 m from grounded metal structures (pipelines for heating, water supply, gas pipelines, etc.); for kitchens, this distance is not standardized.

Requirements for installing socket outlets:

The installation height of sockets in rooms and kitchens from the floor is not standardized;

Sockets of the above-plinth type are installed at a height of 0.3 m from the floor;

Plug sockets are installed for a current of 6 A based on: in living rooms - one socket per 10 m 2 of room area, in kitchens - two sockets, regardless of the area;

In humid, damp and especially damp rooms (kitchens, bathrooms, toilets, etc.) you should:

Reduce the length of the laying of wires and cables with the greatest distance from the water and sewer pipes;

Switches are placed outside these rooms, and lamps - on the wall adjacent to the corridor;

Installation of sockets in bathrooms, showers and toilets is not allowed;

In these rooms, as a rule, hidden electrical wiring is used; wires are laid in PVC or other insulating pipes;

Open wiring is allowed with protected wires and cables;

Laying wires in steel pipes is prohibited.

Electrical installation work begins with marking the installation sites for junction and branch boxes, an apartment shield, sockets, switches, and lamps, since their location determines the beginning, direction and ends of the routes.

Marking lines for laying wires. After the marking of the installation sites of the apartment meter, switches, sockets, fixture attachment points is completed, the wire laying lines are marked. The lines are beaten off, as a rule, with the help of a cord. The cord is rubbed with coloring material (chalk, charcoal, etc.). When marking, the cord is pulled in the right direction, pulled and then abruptly released, thus beating off a clear visible line on the wall or ceiling, showing the direction of the wiring route.

The installation sites of fasteners (rollers, insulators, staples, fasteners, etc.) are marked with short lines drawn across the line broken off by the cord.

The installation sites of supporting structures and fasteners are determined in the following sequence:

First, at the junction and branch boxes, at the corners, at the transitions through walls and ceilings, and then mark the points of intermediate fastenings;

The installation sites of fasteners are located along the route symmetrically at the same distance from each other, not exceeding the maximum allowable SNiP;

The places for attaching the wires when they are inserted into the box or when passing through the wall are located at a distance of 5–7 cm, and at bends and turns at a distance of 1.0–1.5 cm from the beginning of the bend;

On straight sections, the dimensions between the supporting supports are selected in accordance with the recommendations tab. eleven.

Table 11. Standard dimensions for laying wires on insulating supports

On fig. 2 shows an example of marking distances for electrical wiring on rollers.

Rice. 2. Marking distances for electrical wiring on rollers: a - for laying tracks; b - for installing switches; c - to bypass obstacles: 1 - funnel; 2 - rubber semi-solid tube; 3 - heating pipe

When marking, they use measuring rulers, plumb lines, folding meters and tape measures, a marking pole, marking compasses, levels and other special tools and devices. In addition, when marking, it is necessary to have a ladder-ladder and marking templates for marking holes for mounting sockets, sockets and switches.

Open wiring using rollers and insulators

Open wiring using rollers and insulators is still widely used in summer cottage construction. AT tab. 12 recommendations are given on the choice of installation materials when installing open wiring using insulated wires.

When installing rollers on wooden walls, they are fixed with round-head screws. If the rollers are placed in a row on plastered walls and ceilings, then a steel strip is placed under them - a bar that protects the plaster from destruction.

On brick and concrete walls, the rollers are fixed on fasteners or brackets (Fig. 3 a, b) with screws or bolts. Staples and fasteners are smeared into holes knocked out in the wall with alabaster or cement mortar. The rollers can also be installed using a wire spiral. The spiral is made of galvanized binding wire with a diameter of 0.5–0.8 mm.

Rice. 3. Fastening of rollers: a - fastening; b - bracket; in - a wire spiral; g - on dry plaster; e - using a dowel or PVC tube on a brick wall: 1 - spiral; 2 - alabaster solution; 3 - fixed from steel 0.5 mm thick; 4 - dry plaster; 5 - dowel or PVC tube; 6 - brick wall

Table 12. Installation materials for insulated wires of grades PR, PV, APR, APN, APV

(*) The length of the screws corresponds to the length at which the rollers are attached to bare wood. To attach to plastered wood, the length of the screws is increased by the thickness of the plaster layer - 20–30 mm.

The hole for the spiral, pierced in the wall with a jumper or drilled with a pobedit drill, is filled with alabaster mortar and a screw with a spiral is inserted into it. As the mortar sets, the screw is turned out, and then a roller is installed in this place. This method is recommended for wires with a cross-sectional area up to 2.5 mm 2.

There are a number of other ways to attach rollers to brick and concrete bases. At present, the most convenient and reliable method is to fix the rollers with the help of self-locking spacer metal, nylon and polyethylene dowels (Fig. 3e). Nylon, polyethylene dowels are available for screws with a diameter of 3.5 and 5 mm. The dowels have a cylindrical shape with external annular ribs and longitudinal cuts. The ribs ensure that the dowel is securely fastened into the hole when the screw is screwed into it. The diameter of the hole should not exceed the diameter of the dowel by more than 1.0–1.5 mm. The depth of the hole should be such that the dowel is in brick or concrete, not just plaster.

To fasten the rollers to dry plaster, special fasteners are used (Fig. 3d). When mounting, a hole is made in the surface into which the fastener is inserted. The fix is ​​driven behind the plaster surface opposite from the roller, after which a screw with a roller is screwed into it.

Insulators are installed on hooks, anchors, half-anchors, pins, and with a large number of them - on brackets, which are fixed in sockets, in walls or on the ceiling with alabaster mortar (in brickwork) or cement mortar (in concrete walls). To seal the insulator on a hook or anchor, tow is wound on a barbed rod, and then the insulator is screwed on. On fig. 4. shows fasteners for insulators. Hooks and brackets with insulators are fixed only in the main material of the walls, and frames for wires with a cross section of up to 4 mm 2 inclusive are mounted on plaster or sheathing of wooden buildings.

Rice. 4. Fasteners for insulators: a - hook with a shank for screwing into wood (above) and for embedding in concrete and brick walls; b - anchor; c - half anchor

Open wiring with twisted single-core wires PRD, PRD

The laying and fastening of the wire is carried out after the installation of the rollers. The wire is delivered to the place of installation in bays. It is carefully unwound, measured according to the markup. The wire is straightened by passing it through a rag soaked in paraffin. Two measured pieces of wire are tied on the outer roller and twisted together with a laying step of 5–7 cm. Having reached the first intermediate roller, the wires are passed along the neck of the roller and fixed in accordance with the recommendations in fig. 5. Similarly, the wires are fixed on the remaining intermediate and outer rollers. The branch on the twisted wiring to the switch and the lamp is made in accordance with fig. 6. The device of passages and bypasses is shown in fig. 7.

Rice. 5. Methods for tying wires to rollers: a - a cross with a clamp; b - a cross; c - PVC rings; g - viscous: 1 - wire APR1?6; 2 - roller RP-6; 3 - knitting wire; 4 - insulating tape; 5 - PVC ring; 6 - wire PRHD

Rice. 6. Branching of wires when laying APR and PRHD wires on rollers: 1 - screw; 2 - knitting wire; 3 – roller RP-6; 4 - wire APR1?6; 5 - insulating tube; 6 – wire APR1?4; 7 - to the switch; 8 - to the switch and lamp

Rice. 7. The passage of wires through the wall: a - from a damp to a dry room; b - from a dry room to a dry one: 1 - sleeve; 2 - insulating tube; 3 - funnel; 4 - wire

Passages through walls and interfloor ceilings are carried out in insulating tubes. At the outlet, porcelain funnels (in damp rooms) or bushings (in dry rooms) are put on the tubes. They are smeared into the wall with alabaster mortar. Each wire is enclosed in a separate insulating tube. Double wire in the passage through the wall is allowed to be laid in one tube (in dry rooms). In the furrows, wires are laid when bypassing obstacles. When passing through the wall, the opening of the funnel is turned down. If the wires pass into a damp room with a different temperature, humidity, etc., the funnels are filled on both sides with a sealing mass (bituminous mass). Open passages through the internal walls of normal non-explosive and non-flammable rooms may not be sealed.

Open wiring with single-core wires APV, PV, APRI, PRI

Single-core insulated wires are allowed to be laid on rollers in dry and damp, heated and unheated rooms, as well as under sheds and in outdoor electrical wiring. An independent row of rollers should be installed for each core. The distance between the rows of rollers is 35 mm, and between the rollers along the route in accordance with table 11.

The prepared wire is tied to the extreme roller, stretched along the route, the branches are marked on it. After that, the wire is removed, branches are attached to it, pulled again and finally tied to the extreme roller on the other side. After that, the wire is tied up on intermediate rollers. The wire tying technology is shown in fig. 5.

The wires are tied with soft annealed wire with an anti-corrosion coating. The diameter of the wire for knitting wires with a cross section of 2.5 mm 2 is not less than 0.6 mm. In places of knitting, two or three layers of insulating tape are applied under the wire.

The wires to the rollers can be fixed with copper strands of the remaining wire scraps. For fastening to intermediate rollers, you can use rings cut from a PVC tube with a diameter of 40 mm, a wall thickness of 1.5–2 mm.

Branches of wires are performed only on rollers. The intersection of the branch wire with the main line is protected by an insulating tube put on the branch wire (Fig. 6).

Passages through the walls with single-core wires are performed in the same way as with the wires of the PRD, PRD. In this case, each core is laid in a separate pipe.

The installation sites of lamps, switches, socket outlets are marked in the same way as when laying with twisted wires.

Open wiring with flat wires APPV, PPV on rollers

Wiring with flat wires is allowed for existing buildings, as well as for newly constructed small residential, country, garden and cottage buildings on unplastered wooden walls, ceilings and partitions on rollers and cliches.

Rollers and clips are fixed on the surface with screws according to the previously described markings.

Flat wires are mounted on rollers in two ways:

1st fixing method. After fixing all the rollers, the wire is unwound from the coil, straightened and measured to the desired length. Then a longitudinal incision is made along the line of contact of the cores so that the roller head can pass through the resulting hole. The wire is put on the head of the extreme roller and fixed with a knitting wire or braid in the same way as when installing electrical wiring with wires PRD, PRD. Next, the wire is pulled to the next intermediate roller; on the wire against the roller, the following longitudinal section is made along the line of contact of the cores. The roller head is passed through the resulting hole, then the wire is fixed on the remaining rollers in the same way.

2- The th method of fixing a flat wire on rollers (similar to fixing a wire on clips) is as follows:

When installing the roller, strips of sheet metal 15 mm wide and 50–80 mm long are placed under the screw head. Most often, white sheet metal is used;

After fixing the entire row of rollers, the flat wire is placed on the head of the screw with a gasket of insulating material 17 mm wide;

After laying the wire, the ends of the metal and insulating plate are bent with a lock (or fixed with a buckle). The wire is pulled to the next roller and fixed in the same way (Fig. 8 a).

Rice. Fig. 8. Laying wires on rollers, examples of wire bending: a - APPV wire on rollers; b - wires APPV, APN, APR, APRV on wooden bases on the clicks; c - an example of bending of wires of APPV and APPR brands; d – an example of bending wires of APV, APN and APRV brands on an edge: 1 – APPV 2x6 wire; 2 - strip; 3 - buckle; 4 - gasket made of electric cardboard; 5, 9 - screws; 6 - roller RP-2.5; 7 - APR wire; 8 - click; 10 - APN 3x4 wire

Laying of flat wires of the APN, APR, APV, APRV brands on clicks. In this case, the flat wire is attached to the wall through the cleat using a screw through a hole in the separating film between the cores. In this case, it is necessary to place an electrical insulating washer under the screw head and, when screwing the screw, be careful not to damage the wire insulation (Fig. 8 b).

When flat two- and three-core wires are bent by 90 °, the separating film between the cores is cut out at the bend, one or two cores are led inside the corner in the form of a half-loop (Fig. 8 c). A two-core and three-core wire of the APN type, when the route is rotated by 90 °, is bent into an edge, having previously cut the separating film, while the inner core at the turn point is partially superimposed on the outer one (Fig. 8 d). Single-core wires of the APN, APV and APRV brands are bent with a radius of 20 mm, when the cross-sectional area is up to 10 mm 2, and with a radius of 35 mm, if the cross-sectional area is from 16 to 35 mm 2.

Fastening flat wires to concrete and brick bases. Flat wires have light-resistant insulation, so they can be used in open wiring directly along walls, partitions and ceilings made of fireproof materials, while flat wires are attached to concrete and brick bases using a steel strip (tape) 20–40 mm wide and 3– 4 mm, which is nailed to the wall with dowel-nails along the entire wiring route (Fig. 9). The distance between adjacent dowel-nails is not more than 1 m.

Rice. Fig. 9. Fastening of wires of APV, APPV, APN, APRV brands to concrete bases along a steel strip being adjusted: a - fastening the strip with a dowel-nail; b - wire fastening: 1 - strip; 2 - dowel-nail; 3 - gasket made of electric cardboard; 4 – APN 3?4 wire; 5 - mounting tape; 6 - mounting button

The wires are attached to the tape every 30-40 cm with 10 mm wide strips of tinplate, galvanized or painted steel sheet or using normalized mounting perforated strips and buckles. The wires under the strips must be protected by insulating cardboard pads protruding 1.5–2 mm from both sides of the metal strip.

Figure 10 a shows the fastening of wires of the APV, APPV, APN, APRV brands to concrete and brick bases along the adjusted wire, and in Figure 10 b - using adjustable fasteners with strips.

Rice. 10. Fastening of wires of types APV, ALPV, ALN, APRV to concrete and brick bases: a - along the adjusted wire; b - on the adjusted fasteners with stripes: 1 - plate; 2 - dowel-nail; 3 - wire; 4 - APN 3x4; 5 - gasket made of electric cardboard; 6 - steel strip; 7 - buckle

Laying wires on glued fasteners. Plastic or steel parts for attaching flat wires and cables of the AVRG and ANRG brands can be glued to concrete, reinforced concrete, expanded clay concrete, asbestos-cement, brick and ceramic substrates, the surface of which is dry, durable, free of dust, dirt and soot, using special adhesives, for example, glue KNE-2/60 (coumaron sodium electrotechnical) or BMK-5K based on acrylic resin filled with kaolin.

It is forbidden to glue the wires directly to the building base.

Plastic and metal parts are degreased with acetone or gasoline before gluing. The quality and strength of bonding depend on compliance with the technology. First, it is necessary to clean the base with a metal brush and apply glue with a spatula to the building base on an area slightly larger than the size of the part to be glued. Then apply glue to the part to be glued and press it for 3-5 seconds to the building base.

You can start electrical work after the glue has completely dried (20–25 hours). Glue can only be used at a room temperature of more than 5 C and a relative humidity of not more than 70%.

When performing installation work using glue, it is necessary to follow the fire safety rules adopted for flammable liquids, avoid getting glue on the skin of hands, face and eyes. On fig. 11 shows some other ways of attaching wires and cables to concrete, brick, and the like.

Rice. 11. Fastening of wires of types APV, APPV, APN, APRV and cables AVRG and ANRG to concrete and brick bases: a - using a strip nailed with a dowel-nail (manual driving); b - using plastic brackets; c and d - using staples with one and two legs; e - using a strip embedded in the base: 1 - dowel-nail; 2 – APN 3?4 wire; 3, 10 - strip; 4 - gasket made of electric cardboard; 5 - plastic bracket; 6 - bracket; 7 - screw; 8 - nylon dowel; 9 – cable AVRG (ANRG) 3×10 + 1×6; 11 - buckle; 12 - alabaster

Laying on wooden structures. Flat protected wires APPR and cables in a sheath made of slow-burning and non-combustible materials are allowed to be laid along wooden walls, partitions, ceilings and other combustible structures with fastening with brackets.

It is also allowed to lay unprotected wires with PVC insulation on combustible structures with a mandatory lining under the wires of insulating non-combustible materials, for example, asbestos sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm, protruding from each side of the wire by at least 10 mm.

Concealed wiring with flat stranded wires

Hidden wiring indoors is carried out in steel water and gas pipes (only in explosive areas), thin-walled and electric-welded pipes (in fire hazardous rooms), in flexible metal hoses, boxes, in plastic (polyethylene, polypropylene and vinyl plastic), as well as in rubber-bitumen pipes.

Laying on non-combustible substrates. In residential buildings, non-replaceable hidden laying of APPV, APN, APPVS wires is allowed directly along panels of fireproof structures - under plaster, in wall grooves, in seams between floor panels, etc., as well as directly under a layer of wet plaster in the thickness of the base or in a solid a layer of alabaster plaque (Fig. 12 a).

Rice. 12. Concealed laying of wires: a - wires of the APPVS, APN, APV brands on fireproof bases under wet and dry plaster; b - the same wires on wooden bases under dry plaster; c - on wooden bases under wet plaster: 1 - APPVS wire; 2 - alabaster; 3, 13 - wet plaster; 4 - gypsum mantling; 5 - nail; 6 - alabaster gasket; 7 - strip; 8 - dry plaster; 9 - APN or APV wire; 10 - rail; 11 - shred plaster; 12 - wet plaster contour

On wooden bases covered with dry plaster, the wires are sealed with a continuous layer of alabaster plaque or between two layers of sheet alabaster (Fig. 12 b).

On wooden walls and partitions covered with wet plaster - under a layer of plaster with a lining for wires of sheet asbestos with a thickness of at least 3 mm or along a bast of plaster with a thickness of at least 5 mm. Asbestos or plaster plaster is laid on top of the shingles or the shingles are cut to the width of the asbestos gasket. The width of the asbestos gasket must be such that the asbestos protrudes at least 10 mm from each side of the wire.

On wooden walls and partitions covered with a layer of dry gypsum plaster - in the gap between the wall and plaster in a continuous layer of alabaster plaque or between two layers of asbestos sheet 3 mm thick. In this case, the layer of alabaster plaque or asbestos on each side of the wire must be at least 10 mm.

Technology of laying flat wires of hidden wiring

When installing wiring with flat wires with hidden wiring, a number of operations are performed:

Editing the wire from the bay;

Route marking;

Wire laying;

Wire fastening;

Bending and crossing wire;

Passages through walls and ceilings.

To straighten flat wires, one end of the wire is fixedly fixed in a vice, after which the wire is pulled through a cloth or glove. When melting single-wire wires with PVC insulation (PV, APV, etc.), it is not recommended to pull the wires with great effort, as the insulation can be shifted.

The laying of wires is carried out in sections: apartment shield - junction box - socket; junction box - switch; junction box - lamp, etc.

Wires are interconnected only in junction boxes. Connection of wires to each other outside the boxes is not allowed. The wire is cut into pieces equal to the length of individual sections. The wire is laid with light pressure along the entire length of the straight section from the box to the turn of the route and fixed with alabaster mortar (Fig. 12 a).

When turning the wire, the separating base is cut out to give the wire the ability to make a turn in the plane.

After laying the wire at the turn, it is fixed with alabaster mortar. Similarly, the installation of the wire is carried out on the entire remaining route to the next box.

Ensuring the possibility of connecting wires. When installing the wiring, it must be possible to freely make wire connections in junction boxes, boxes for switches and sockets. Such a need may arise during the period of operation for the repair or replacement of switches, sockets, lamps. Therefore, the ends of the wire with separate cores are inserted into boxes with a margin of 5070 mm. After that, the wire is fixed at the box.

To connect hidden wires to lamps, plug sockets, open-mounted switches, insulating tubes, porcelain or plastic bushings or funnels are put on at the places where they exit from walls, partitions and ceilings in order to prevent the wires from breaking due to their repeated bending.

Passages through the walls of flat wires with hidden wiring are also carried out in insulating pipes, while installing porcelain bushings and funnels is not required.

Wiring in steel and plastic pipes

Electrical wiring in pipes is performed only in cases where the use of other laying methods is not recommended. Pipe wiring is used to protect wires from mechanical damage, as well as to protect wire insulation from adverse environmental conditions. To protect against mechanical damage, the pipeline itself can be made leaky, and to protect it from the external environment, the pipeline can be made airtight.

The tightness of the pipeline is ensured by sealing the joints between pipes and their connection to junction boxes and various electrical consumers.

When crossing with heating pipes, the distance to the electrical wiring pipes must be at least 50 mm in the light, and when laying in parallel with them - 100 mm.

Steel pipes must be laid in such a way that moisture and condensate cannot accumulate in them. To drain water, pipes are laid on horizontal sections of the route with a slight slope towards the box.

Unprotected insulated wires of the APRTO, PRTO, APV, PV, etc. brands are laid in steel and plastic pipes.

The minimum sections of the conductive cores of insulated wires laid in pipes are 1.0 mm 2 for copper and 2.0 mm 2 for aluminum wires.

Wiring is mounted in pipes so that, if necessary, the wires can be removed from the pipe and replaced with others. Therefore, if there are two bending angles on the route of laying the pipeline, then the distance between the boxes should not exceed 5 m, and on straight sections - 10 m.

It is forbidden to make connections or branches of wires in pipes, they are made only in boxes.

Electrical wiring in steel pipes can be carried out with open, hidden and outdoor laying. Steel pipes are used as an exception when laying wires without pipes is not allowed and non-metallic pipes cannot be used.

In garden houses and buildings, steel pipes are needed for inputs and wiring in attics, basements and for outdoor wiring.

Pipes before installation are cleaned of rust, dirt, burrs. To prevent the destructive effect of corrosion products on the sheath of wires and cables, pipes laid openly are painted. Pipes laid in concrete are not painted on the outside for better adhesion of their outer surface to concrete.

When bending pipes, crushing (corrugation) at the corners is not allowed. It is not recommended to bend the pipes at an angle of less than 90 °, since with a complex configuration of pipelines and its long length it is difficult to pull the wires through the pipes. Therefore, the bending radii of pipes are limited. When laying pipes hidden, the bending radius must be at least six outer diameters of the pipe, with one bend or open laying - at least four outer diameters. When laying a pipe in concrete, the bending radius must be at least ten of the outer diameters of the pipe.

The distance between the fixing points of openly laid steel pipes in horizontal and vertical sections depends on the diameter of the pipes being laid. Pipes with a diameter of 15–32 mm are fixed after 2.5–3.0 m, and at bends - at a distance of 150200 mm from the angle of rotation. With open laying of pipes, they are attached to the supporting structures with brackets, clips, overlays and clamps.

After cutting, the ends of the pipes are deburred, countersinked and terminated with bushings that protect the wire insulation from damage at the point of entry and exit from the pipe.

Steel pipes are interconnected by threaded couplings, threadless couplings, cuffs, as well as using junction and branch boxes and boxes. The pipes are connected with threaded couplings so that the pipeline can be easily disassembled at any time. Branches and connections are carried out in boxes with lids. Boxes are connected to pipes on a thread or with clamps.

For open and hidden laying in damp, especially damp, fire hazardous rooms, attics and outdoor installations, steel pipe joints must be sealed. The sealing of the joints of pipes and the places of entries into the boxes is carried out with standard couplings on a thread with hemp on drying oil, minium.

When laying steel pipes openly in dry, non-dusty rooms, the pipes themselves are connected, as well as the pipes are connected to boxes without seals: sockets, cuffs on screws and bolts, sleeves, etc.

Laying of plastic pipes. For open laying in dry, damp, especially damp and dusty rooms, in rooms with a chemically active environment and in outdoor wiring, on fireproof and slow-burning bases, plastic pipes are used.

The connection of plastic pipes and assemblies is carried out by welding using special burners, tools and fixtures. The bending radius of plastic pipes is taken to be at least 6 times the outer diameter of the pipe. For electrical wiring it is necessary to use plastic boxes.

Plastic pipes are fastened with brackets that allow free movement of pipes at temperature deformations up to 5 mm per 1 m of pipe.

The choice of steel and plastic pipes for electrical wiring is made in accordance with tab. 13.

Table 13. Selection of steel and plastic pipes for laying insulated wires APR, APV, APRV, APRTO

If the length of the continuous pipeline exceeds:

50 m - if there is no more than one bend;

40 m - in the presence of two bends;

20 m - in the presence of three bends (angles of 90 ° or more), then intermediate broaching boxes should be installed and only in extreme cases should pipes of a larger diameter be used.

Connecting and terminating wires

Installation of electrical wiring, connection of switches, sockets, sockets, etc. cannot be carried out without connecting and terminating the wires. Correct and high-quality connections and connections to a greater extent determine the reliability of power supply.

Wiring requirements. The connection of the cores to each other and their connection to electrical installation devices must have the necessary mechanical strength, low electrical resistance and retain these properties for the entire period of operation. Contact connections are subject to the action of the load current, cyclically heated and cooled. Changes in temperature and humidity, vibration, the presence of chemically active particles in the air also have an adverse effect on contact connections.

The physical and chemical properties of aluminum, which is mainly used for wire cores, make it difficult to make a reliable connection. Aluminum has (in comparison with copper) increased fluidity and high oxidizability, while a non-conductive oxide film is formed, which creates a large transition resistance on the contact surfaces. This film must be carefully removed from the contact surfaces before the connection is made and measures must be taken to prevent its recurrence. All this creates some difficulties when connecting aluminum wires.

Copper conductors also form an oxide film, but unlike aluminum, it is easily removed and does not significantly affect the quality of the electrical connection.

The large difference in the coefficients of thermal linear expansion of aluminum compared to other metals also leads to contact failure. Given this property, aluminum wires cannot be crimped into copper lugs.

During long-term operation under pressure, aluminum acquires the property of fluidity, thereby breaking the electrical contact, therefore, the mechanical contact connections of aluminum wires cannot be pinched, and during operation it is required to periodically tighten the threaded connection of the contact. Contacts of aluminum conductors with other metals in the open air are subject to atmospheric influences.

Under the influence of moisture, a water film with electrolyte properties is formed on the contact surfaces, as a result of electrolysis, shells form on the metal. The intensity of the formation of shells increases when an electric current passes through the place of contact.

Particularly unfavorable in this respect are aluminum compounds with copper and copper-based alloys. Therefore, such contacts must be protected from moisture or coated with a third metal - tin or solder.

Connection and termination of copper wires

The connection, branch of copper wires with a cross section of up to 10 mm 2 is recommended to be twisted, followed by soldering, and single-wire copper wires with a cross section of up to 6 mm 2, as well as stranded wires with small cross-sectional areas, are soldered by twisting (Fig. 13). The cores with a cross-sectional area of ​​​​6-10 mm 2 are connected by bandage soldering (Fig. 14 a), and stranded wires - by twisting with a preliminary unwinding of the wires (Fig. 14 b). The length of the joints by twisting or bandage soldering should be at least 10–15 outer diameters of the connected cores. Solder with lead-tin solder using a rosin-based flux. It is not allowed to use acid and ammonia when soldering copper wires, since these substances gradually destroy the soldering points.

Rice. 13. Twisted connection with subsequent soldering: a - connection of wires PR and APR; b - branch wires PR and APR; in - connection of wires PRHD; PC - soldering point

Rice. 14. Connection and branching of wires: a - connection of single-wire bandages by soldering; b - connection of stranded wires with a twist; c - branch of multi-wire wires; g - connection of stranded wires by crimping

Compression connection. The method of connecting copper wires by crimping is widely used (Fig. 14 d). The ends of the wires are stripped by 25–30 mm, then wrapped with copper foil and crimped with special PK-type pliers.

Connection and termination of aluminum wires

Aluminum cores of wires are connected by welding, soldering and mechanically (Fig. 15).

Rice. 15. Connection of wires by welding and soldering: a - connection of single-wire aluminum wires by welding in a sleeve; b - welding samples; c - solder connection

Aluminum wires are welded in a special mold using carbon electrodes powered by a welding transformer.

For soldering, aluminum wires are twisted (Fig. 15 c), and then the place of twisting is heated in the flame of a blowtorch and soldered with solders, the compositions of which are given in tab. fourteen.

Table 14. Composition and melting point of solders

The technology for soldering aluminum wires is as follows:

Remove the insulation from the ends of the connected wires, then clean the bare wires to a metallic sheen and overlap them with a double twist to form a groove at the point where the wires touch. The length of the groove for connecting and branching with different sections of the cores is shown in fig. 16;

Rice. 16. Soldering single-wire conductors

Heat the wires connected by twisting with a flame of a gas burner and a blowtorch to a temperature close to the melting point of the solder. After that, wipe the groove (with pressure) on one side of the connection with a solder stick, previously introduced into the lamp flame. As a result of friction, the oxide film is peeled off, the groove begins to be tinned and filled with solder as the junction warms up. Flux is not required. Then the groove on the other side of the joint is tinned and soldered. At the same time, wipe and solder the outer surfaces and places of twisting of the cores of the connected section;

Clean the soldering points of the connected wires, wipe with a cloth moistened with gasoline, cover with a moisture-proof varnish and insulate with insulating tape.

The termination of the wires is performed after they are laid. Single-wire wires with a cross-sectional area up to 10 mm 2 and stranded wires with a cross-sectional area up to 2.5 mm 2 are connected directly to current collectors. In this case, the bare core is inserted under the clamping contact screw. The ends of the stranded wires are twisted and soldered. Depending on the type of contact, the end of the wire can be given the appearance of a pestle (Fig. 17 a) or a ringlet (Fig. 17 b).

Rice. 17. Termination of wires: a - pestle; b - ringlet; c - soldering the tip: 1 - tip; 2 and 3 - insulating tape or bandage thread

The ends of single-wire wires with a cross section of more than 10 mm 2 or multi-wire wires with a cross section of more than 2.5 mm 2 are provided with lugs (Fig. 17 c), which are soldered or welded to the core, and in some cases they are crimped.

In all cases of connecting, branching and terminating wires, the places where they are connected to each other and to the tip are wrapped with insulating tape in several layers. In accordance with the rules, the dielectric strength of the insulation at the junction or branch should not be lower than the strength of the insulation as a whole.

In country conditions, for connecting aluminum and copper wires to each other, the most acceptable method of connection is screw clamps, since special tools and devices are not required. The design of the contact must provide constant pressure and limit the extrusion of the wires. It is necessary to assemble the clamp when connecting aluminum wires with all factory parts (screw, pressure washer, flat washer, contact plate), since the absence of any part will necessarily lead to poor contact.

To connect the wire to the clamp, the insulation is removed from the end of the wire. The knife is held at an angle of 10–15° to the surface of the core, which excludes the incision of the aluminum core. The wire is cleaned to a metallic sheen and lubricated with quartz-vaseline paste, then the end of the core is bent in the form of a ring. The wire should be bent clockwise, i.e., in the direction of rotation of the fixing screw.

The inner diameter of the ring must be slightly larger than the diameter of the contact screw. (Table 15).

Table 15. Parameters of the ring on the terminated wire

The connection of wires by crimping is widely used in the installation of internal, external electrical wiring and overhead power lines.

This method provides reliable contact, the necessary mechanical strength, and is simple to implement. Crimping is performed with manual tongs, mechanical and hydraulic presses using replaceable dies and punches.

To connect the cores, sleeves GAO, GA are used, for termination - tips TA, TAM, etc.

Aluminum conductors in connecting sleeves are crimped according to the following technology:

Select the type and size of the sleeves, as well as dies and punches in accordance with the dimensions of the sleeves;

Check the presence of factory lubrication in the sleeves and tips, in the absence of lubrication, the sleeves and tips are cleaned with a metal brush and lubricated with a protective quartz-vaseline or zinc-vaseline paste;

The insulation is removed from the ends of the cores: when terminating - at a length equal to the length of the tubular part of the tip, and when connected - at a length equal to half the length of the sleeve;

The ends of the current-carrying wires are cleaned with sandpaper to a metallic sheen, wiped with a cloth soaked in gasoline, and covered with quartz-vaseline paste;

A tip or sleeve is put on the prepared cores;

When terminating, the core is inserted into the tip until it stops, and when connected, so that the ends of the connected cores are in contact with each other in the middle of the sleeve;

The tubular part of the tip or the sleeve is installed in the matrix and pressure testing is carried out;

Isolate the connection with several layers of insulating tape.

It is not allowed to crimp a copper tip onto an aluminum core, since the connection will be fragile due to the large difference between copper and aluminum in the coefficient of linear thermal expansion.

Crimping of single- and multi-wire copper conductors with a cross section of 4 mm 2 or more is carried out in copper tubular lugs of type T or connecting copper sleeves of type GM. The technology of crimping copper wires is similar to the technology of crimping aluminum wires, except for applying quartz-vaseline or zinc-vaseline paste. It is forbidden to carry out crimping with a hammer and chisel.

Installation of switches, socket outlets

Electrical products include: switches and switches; plug connections - plugs and socket; cartridges for electric lamps; circuit breakers.

The electrical installation product must not be overloaded by current. Loading in excess of the rated current will burn the contacts, cause unacceptable overheating, and may cause a fire.

Switches and sockets are available in two versions: for open wiring and for hidden wiring.

Sockets with open wiring are installed on the sockets. Socket boxes are discs with a diameter of 60–70 mm, at least 10 mm thick, made of non-conductive material (wood, textolite, heticans, plexiglass, etc.). The socket boxes are fixed on the wall with countersunk screws or glued with BMK-5 or KNE-2/60 glue. On brick or benton walls, the socket boxes are also fixed with screws, having previously drilled a hole in the wall and installed a dowel or a wooden plug.

On combustible bases, it is recommended to install asbestos pads 2-3 mm thick on wooden sockets, which provide protection against ignition of the socket in the event of a contact connection failure in the switch or socket.

Wiring accessories are fixed on the socket with two screws with a semicircular head (with the top cover removed). Then, pre-terminated electrical wires are connected to the terminals of the electrical installation product.

The switches are installed in the break of the phase wire going to the lamp holder. This allows you to quickly de-energize the power grid in case of a short circuit and ensure electrical safety when replacing lamps and cartridges. When mounting the switches, pay attention to the fact that the electric lighting is turned on by pressing the upper part of the key or the upper button of the switch.

Plug sockets are connected in parallel with the main wires of the electrical network.

Pre-ceiling switches have a metal base, they are attached directly to the wall without a socket. The presence of cavities under the cover for placing wires allows you to abandon the junction box.

With hidden wiring, switches and sockets are installed in metal or plastic boxes of types U-196, KP-1.2 with a diameter of 69 mm and a height of 40 mm. The boxes are installed in recesses in the wall and fixed with alabaster mortar.

To fix the switch or socket in the box, remove the top decorative cover from them, attach the terminated wiring wires to the terminals, unscrew the screws from the plates of the spacer brackets so that the switch or socket can be pushed into the box. When the screws are tightened, the tabs move apart and firmly fix the switch or socket in the box. The screws are turned to the stop alternately, avoiding distortion with such an effort so as not to split the base. After fixing the base of the switch (socket), decorative covers are fixed on them.

Installation of fixtures

Artificial electric lighting in residential premises should provide normal hygienic visibility conditions, the necessary comfort and coziness. To fulfill these conditions, general and combined lighting systems are used.

General lighting serves to illuminate the entire area of ​​​​the room.

Combined lighting is carried out using general lighting lamps, which provide the necessary illumination throughout the room, and local lighting lamps create increased illumination in the workplace. Combined lighting is the most economical, allows you to create the best conditions for work and leisure.

To distribute the light flux in the right direction and protect it from glare, electric lamps are installed in fittings. The lamp together with the armature is called a luminaire.

The types of luminaires are selected depending on the nature of the environment, the height of the suspension, lighting requirements and the interior of the room.

Depending on the type of light source, there are luminaires with incandescent lamps and fluorescent lamps.

Incandescent lamps are light sources that work on the principle of thermal radiation. Incandescent lamps are by far the most common light source. On fig. 18 shows some types of incandescent lamps. As a filament in modern lamps, a spiral of refractory metal is used - most often from tungsten. The filament can be single stranded or multi stranded. Bulbs of incandescent lamps are evacuated or filled with a neutral gas (nitrogen, argon, krypton). The temperature of the heated thread reaches 2600–3000 °C. The spectrum of incandescent lamps differs from the spectrum of daylight by the predominance of the yellow and red spectrum of rays. The luminous efficiency of incandescent lamps, defined as the ratio of the power of the rays of the visible spectrum to the power consumed from the electrical network, is very small and does not exceed 3.5%.

Rice. 18. Some types of incandescent lamps: a - gas-filled; b - bispiral; c – bispiral krypton; g - mirror

The industry produces various types of lamps, differing in nominal values ​​of power and voltage, dimensions, shape of bulbs, material and size of socles, etc.

In the designation of incandescent lamps, the letters mean:

B - vacuum;

G - gas-filled;

B - bispiral;

BC - bispiral krypton;

DB - diffuse (with a matte reflective layer inside the bulb);

MO - local lighting, etc.

The number following the letter indicates the supply voltage, and the second indicates the lamp power in watts. Mirror lamps are produced with concentrated light distribution (ZK), medium (ZS), wide (ZSh), reflective from neodymium glass of concentrated or wide light distribution - ZKN, ZSHN. Mirror lamps are designed to illuminate high rooms and open spaces, decorative lighting. Neodymium lamps are used where high quality color rendering is required.

Decorative special lamps (D) can emit white (BL), yellow (Y), green (G), red (K), opal (O) rays.

Incandescent lamps with a mirror reflector are produced - thermal emitters, quartz halogen (KG-220-1200; IKZK-220-500).

Cartridges for electric incandescent lamps are divided into two main groups: threaded and pin. In household lighting fixtures, as a rule, threaded cartridges are used and are divided according to the size of the threaded sleeves - E14 - with a diameter of 14 mm (for minions), E27 - with a diameter of 27 mm, E40 - 40 mm in diameter (lamp power over 1.0 kW) .

Cartridges are made from non-ferrous metals, steel, porcelain and plastics. According to the form of execution, cartridges are divided into cartridges for screwing onto a nipple, cartridges with a flange and cartridges for suspension.

If the cartridge has a current-carrying screw sleeve, then the sleeve must be connected to the neutral, and not to the phase conductor. This ensures electrical safety when replacing an electric lamp.

Electric lamps, in which electricity is converted into light directly, regardless of the thermal state of the substance, due to luminescence, are called fluorescent.

The principle of operation of these lamps in a simplified representation is as follows. If a voltage of at least 500-2000 V per 1 m of the tube length is applied to the electrodes inserted into the ends of a glass tube filled with a rarefied inert gas or metal vapor, then free electrons in the tube cavity begin to fly towards the electrode with a positive charge. When an alternating voltage is applied to the electrodes, the direction of electron movement changes with the frequency of the current. In their motion, electrons meet with neutral atoms of the gas filling the cavity of the tube and ionize them, knocking out electrons from the upper orbit into space or from the lower orbit to the upper one. Atoms excited in this way, again colliding with electrons, again turn into neutral atoms. This reverse transformation is accompanied by the emission of a quantum of light energy. Each inert gas and metal vapor has its own spectral composition of the emitted light.

So, tubes with helium glow with light yellow or pale pink light, with neon - red light, with argon - blue, etc. By mixing inert gases or applying phosphors to the surface of the discharge tube, various shades of glow are obtained.

Fluorescent lamps for daylight and white light are made in the form of a straight or arcuate tube made of ordinary glass that does not transmit short ultraviolet rays. The electrodes are made from tungsten wire. The tube is filled with a mixture of argon and mercury vapor. Inside, the surface of the tube is coated with a phosphor - a special compound that glows under the influence of ultraviolet rays that occur during an electrical discharge in mercury vapor. Argon contributes to the reliable burning of the discharge in the tube.

The main advantage of fluorescent lamps compared to incandescent lamps is a higher efficiency (15-20%) and a 7-10 times longer service life.

Along with the positive qualities of fluorescent lamps, they also have disadvantages:

The complexity of the switching circuit;

Dependence on ambient temperature; when the temperature drops, the lamps may go out or not light up;

Additional energy losses in ballasts, reaching 25–35% of lamp power;

Harmful pulsations of the light flux;

The presence of radio interference;

The light source and fittings form a luminaire. The armature redistributes the luminous flux in the right direction, protects the light source from dust, moisture, etc. The luminaires are located, if possible, in places that are convenient and safe for maintenance.

Luminaires are charged with copper flexible wires with a conductor cross section of at least 0.5 mm 2 inside buildings and 1 mm 2 for outdoor installation and connected to the network wires using plug connectors or a chandelier clamp.

For decorative design of the place of suspension of the lamp, a ceiling socket of the lamp is sometimes used, inside of which there is a chandelier clip. It is allowed to hang the luminaire directly on the wires supplying it, provided that they are intended for this purpose.

Chandeliers, pendants are hung on hooks (Fig. 19). Direct suspension of luminaires on wires is prohibited. The hook in the ceiling must be isolated from the chandelier, lamp with a PVC tube. Hook insulation is necessary to prevent the appearance of a dangerous potential in the metal fittings of concrete slabs or steel pipes of electrical wiring when the insulation in the luminaire is broken. In the case of fastening hooks to wooden floors, insulation of the hook is not required. To install the hook in a hollow floor slab, a hole is made, and then the hook is fixed (Fig. 19 b). In solid reinforced concrete ceilings, the lamp is suspended from a stud passing through the entire ceiling.

Rice. 19. Hooks for hanging lamps: a - on wooden ceilings; b - on hollow reinforced concrete slabs

All fixtures for hanging lamps are tested for strength by five times the mass of the lamp. In this case, the details of the suspension fastening must not have damage and residual deformations.

Electrical wiring in cellars and cellars

Cellars and basements, as a rule, are built from fireproof materials and structures (brickwork, reinforced concrete blocks, ceilings, etc.). The floors are usually conductive, namely: earthen, concrete, broken bricks, etc. Depending on the condition of the soil, ventilation efficiency, relative humidity, cellars and basements are classified as damp and especially damp rooms, and according to the degree of danger of electric shock - to particularly dangerous areas.

Increased requirements are imposed on electrical wiring in cellars and basements, namely:

The mains voltage should not exceed 42 V. For this, step-down transformers should be used;

Perform electrical wiring directly on the base on insulators and rollers with insulated protected wires or cables. For hidden wiring, it is forbidden to use steel pipes with a wall thickness of 2 mm or less;

It is necessary to use hermetically sealed fixtures to prevent moisture from entering the electric cartridge;

The switch should be located outside the cellar and basement.

Wiring in the attic

An attic space is a space above the top floor of a building, the ceiling of which is the roof of the building and which has load-bearing structures (roof, truss, rafters, beams, etc.) made of combustible materials.

Electrical wiring in attics is performed mainly for laying inputs from overhead lines into the building to the terminals of the apartment shield. In country houses, attic lighting is not required.

Installation of any electrical wiring, except for the laying of inputs, in attics with structures made of combustible materials, it is better not to perform.

Attic rooms have a number of features. They are subject to temperature fluctuations, as a rule, are dusty, and have an increased fire hazard. Accidental damage to electrical wiring can lead to ignition of wooden structures and further to a fire. Therefore, increased requirements are imposed on electrical wiring in attics.

The following electrical wiring can be used in attic rooms:

Open - by wires and cables laid in steel pipes, as well as protected wires and cables in sheaths of fireproof and slow-burning materials at any height;

Unprotected insulated single-core wires on rollers and insulators at a height of at least 2.5 m from the floor.

At a height of less than 2.5 m, they are protected from touch and mechanical damage. The distance between the attachment points of the rollers should be no more than 60 mm, insulators - no more than 1000 mm, between the wires - no less than 50 mm. The height of the rollers must be at least 30 mm. The rollers are installed on boards hemmed to the rafters.

Hidden electrical wiring is carried out in walls and ceilings made of fireproof materials at any height.

Open electrical wiring in the attic is carried out with wires and cables with copper conductors. Wires and cables with aluminum conductors can be laid in buildings with fireproof floors, provided they are laid in steel pipes or hidden in fireproof walls and ceilings. Transit lines in attics up to 5 m long are allowed to be made with wires with aluminum conductors.

When laying steel pipes, it is necessary to exclude the penetration of dust into pipes and junction boxes, for which sealed threaded connections are used. Pipes can only be connected with threaded couplings without seals in dry and dust-free attics.

Pipes are laid with a slope so that moisture cannot accumulate in them.

Connections and branches of copper or aluminum cores of wires and cables are carried out in metal junction (branch) boxes by welding, crimping or using clamps corresponding to the material, cross section and number of cores.

Branches from lines laid in the attic to electrical receivers installed outside the attics are allowed provided that both the line and the branches are laid openly in steel pipes, hidden in fireproof walls and ceilings.

Switching devices in the circuits that feed the lamps located directly in the attics are installed outside the attics, for example, at the entrance to the attic.

Steel pipes, metal housings of fixtures and other metal structures of electrical wiring must be neutralized.

It is forbidden to lay any non-metallic pipes in attics.

Installation of apartment shields

Accounting for the consumed electricity and settlement for it with the energy supply organization is carried out according to the meter. The meter, as a rule, is mounted on an apartment panel along with the necessary switching and protective devices and devices. It is allowed to mount meters on wooden, plastic or metal shields.

The industry produces single-phase and three-phase meters for various voltages and currents. The main types and characteristics of meters are given in tab. 16.

Table 16. Counters

In single-phase current circuits, active energy is measured by single-phase induction meters of direct connection (Fig. 20 a) or switching through a current transformer (Fig. 20 b). When switched on through a current transformer, the meter readings are multiplied by the transformation ratio of the current transformer.

Rice. 20. Turning on a single-phase meter: a - a single-phase meter of direct connection; b - switching on a single-phase meter through a current transformer; G - generator clamps; H - load clamps

In three-wire three-phase current circuits with a uniform or uneven phase load, energy is measured by two-element counters, for example, type SAZ-I670M or SAZ-I677 of direct connection (Fig. 21) or switched on through measuring current transformers (Fig. 22). In both phases, the current transformers must have the same transformation ratio.

Rice. 21. Inclusion of three-phase meters SAZ-I677 and SAZ-I684 directly into a three-wire network

Rice. 22. Scheme of switching on meters SAZ-I670M and SAZ-I681 through current transformers in a three-wire network

Energy consumption is defined as the product of the meter readings, current transformer ratio and voltage transformer ratio, if applicable.

In a four-wire network of three-phase current, with a uniform and uneven load of the phases, the energy can be taken into account using three single-phase meters connected, as shown in fig. 23, or using a three-element four-wire counter of the CA4 or CA4U type (Fig. 24). When accounting for three single-phase meters, the energy consumption is equal to the sum of the readings of all three meters, multiplied by the transformation ratio of the current transformers.

Rice. 23. Energy metering scheme in a four-wire network with uneven phase loading using three single-phase meters connected through current transformers

Rice. 24. Energy metering scheme in a four-wire network with uneven phase loading using a three-phase CA4 meter of direct connection

In front of the meter, which is installed on the apartment panel, it is advisable to install a knife switch or a two-pole switch for safe replacement of the meter.

The load must be connected to the meter through a protection device. Protective devices are used to ensure that in the event of a malfunction of the internal wiring or in case of an emergency overload of the network, it is automatically disconnected from the main line. For this purpose, fuses, circuit breakers or residual current devices are installed in the circuits of different network wires.

Disconnection must occur by breaking the line of the phase wire. Therefore, fuses, as well as single-pole protective or switching devices, for example, automatic machines A3161 or AB25, are installed only in the phase wire. Installation of these devices in accordance with the PUE in the neutral wire is not allowed.

The neutral wire line can only be broken simultaneously with the phase wire line. This is ensured by two-pole switching or protective devices. A three-pole device can also be used, but with a single-phase (two-wire) input, one of the poles is not used.

In practice, it is common to install fuses in the line not only of the phase, but also of the neutral wire, which contradicts the requirements of the current PUE.

The installation of fuses both in the phase wire and in the zero wire was justified by the unskilled operation of the apartment wiring. Indeed, if a fusible link that burned out in the line of one wire, grossly violating the rules, was replaced with a wire jumper (“bug”), then protection was provided by a serviceable fuse in the line of the other wire. In addition, it was not excluded that in the wiring section to the fuses, the external difference between the phase and neutral wires would be lost. In this case, the presence of two fuses allows you to safely carry out repairs by removing both plugs. Recall that initially, electrical energy in everyday life was used mainly in residential premises with non-conductive floors. Central heating was not yet available, and there were no pipes or radiators in the rooms. Under these conditions, touching an electrical appliance with damaged insulation usually did not lead to electric shock, and grounding of the cases as a means of increasing safety was not required. Now the electrification of everyday life has gone beyond the limits of living rooms, and grounded pipelines for heating, water supply, and gas are increasingly found in the rooms. This means that there is a possibility of being in contact with the ground or with a grounded metal object while using an electrical appliance. Under such conditions, damage to the insulation creates a risk of electric shock.

One of the means of ensuring safety is zeroing, that is, the connection of metal non-current-carrying parts of electrical equipment with a grounded neutral wire. If a fuse or automatic machine is installed in the neutral wire circuit, then under certain conditions it can work and turn off the neutral wire, and this is tantamount to turning off the zeroing, which ensures the safety of the worker. Therefore, the installation of protective devices in the neutral wire in the presence of electrical appliances that require zeroing is unacceptable.

Shield installation. Below is an example of the installation of an apartment fuse box. The shield panel is stamped from steel or plastic with a size of 360x170x27 mm. Fuses are placed in the upper part of the panel, a counter is installed under the fuses. The counter is fixed with three screws. In the lower part of the shield under the meter there are four holes framed with plastic bushings for entering wires to the meter clamping device. The shield (Fig. 25) is mounted after completion of work on the internal wiring in the house and entering the building from the overhead line.

Rice. 25. Connection of the apartment shield: 1 - input wires; 2 - disconnecting device; 3 - outgoing line screw; 4 - fuse; 5 - screw of the central contact; 6 - wire from the meter to the fuses; 7 - asbestos gasket; 8 - counter; 9 - shield body; 10 - wooden base

The shield is mounted on a wall with a rigid structure, in places convenient for access and maintenance. It should be located away from the zone of possible mechanical impacts (opening doors, shutters, etc.) and from heating pipelines, water supply, gas pipelines, no closer than at a distance of 0.5 m.

The shield is mounted on a solid base strictly vertically with a slope of not more than 1 °. The distance from the floor to the meter terminal box should be within 0.8–1.7 m.

When installing an apartment shield in places where it can be damaged, for example, under stairs, the shield is placed in a cabinet with a window for the counter or in niches.

The fuse is one of the most common protection devices. For domestic consumption, fuses are made in the form of single-pole threaded fuses with an E27 thread. The fuse consists of two main parts (Fig. 26 a): a rectangular base and a screw-in cylindrical body with a fusible insert. The base is installed on the shield in the phase wire circuit. To the terminal connected to the central contact, connect the wire coming from the terminal (2) of the meter; to the clamp of the threaded part - the wire going to the load. The fusible insert is placed in a porcelain cylinder with two metal caps on the side of the ends. The insert is installed in a cylindrical body, which is screwed into the base.

Rice. 26. Electrical protection devices: a - PRS series fuse: 1 - fuse base; 2 - screw-in cylindrical body with a fusible insert; b - automatic switch PAR-6.3 (PAR-10): 1 - power button; 2 - off button

Fuse links for fuses are available for a rated current of 6.3; ten; 16; 20 and 25 A.

Automatic switches. For use in apartment shields with fusible inserts, PAR type circuit breakers for 6.3 and 10 A have been developed with connecting dimensions the same as for threaded fuses (Fig. 26 b). In contrast to fuse links, the circuit breaker is ready for operation again after tripping. To turn it on, just press the large diameter button, and by pressing the small diameter button, you can turn off the circuit. These machines have a combined release: electromagnetic - for instant disconnection of short circuits, and thermal - for disconnection of overloads.

On apartment shields, single-pole circuit breakers A3161 or AB-25 with thermal releases for 15, 20 or 25 A or AE1111 with combined releases for currents from 6.3 to 25 A are also used.

At present, the industry produces introductory apartment shields of various modifications and types (ShK, SCHO, ShKI, etc.)

Shields can be of open and closed design, respectively, for installation on the wall or in niches. They are equipped with fuses for one, two groups or single-pole circuit breakers for two or three groups. Shield dimensions - 260x150x129 mm. The machines and the counter are covered with a plastic case (lid) with a window for the counter and a hole for the control knobs of the machines. The lid is mounted on side latches and can be easily removed. The design of the shield allows the input and output of wires from above or below, the possibility of their sealing is provided.

It is desirable to power the main line of socket outlets and the lighting circuit from different fuses or circuit breakers. This achieves the preservation of lighting in the house when overloaded in the line of sockets.

Each installed settlement meter must have on the screws securing the meter casing, seals with the stamp of the state verifier, and on the clamping cover - the seal of the energy supply organization.

Newly installed three-phase meters must have state verification seals with a limitation period of not more than 12 months, and on single-phase meters - with a limitation period of not more than 2 years.

The state verification of the meter is carried out once every 16 years.

Tools, fixtures, appliances

When installing electrical wiring, various tools are used in accordance with the type of work performed.

When installing wiring accessories and wiring, a fitter's and assembly tool is used: pliers, round nose pliers, side cutters (diagonal wire cutters), a set of various screwdrivers, insulation stripping pliers, metal cutting scissors, a core, an awl, a knife, a soldering iron, etc. Some of of the above are shown in Fig. 27.

Rice. 27. Electrician's tool

In the production of construction work on the laying of electrical wiring, hammers, sledgehammers, chisels, bolts of various diameters, drills, electric and hand drills, rotary hammers, a set of drills with victorious soldering, etc. are used.

For marking work, it is necessary to have plumb lines, a level, rulers, measuring tapes 5-10 m, templates, compasses, calipers, etc.

When working on connecting, branching and terminating wires and cables, KU-1 tongs, PK-1, PK-2M press tongs, cordolent brushes, gasoline blowtorches, soldering irons, etc. are used.

To check the circuits during installation, you must have special devices.

The simplest is a conductivity tester, consisting of a battery, a light bulb and two wires (Fig. 28). To test the circuit, the tester is connected to the circuit under test using alligator clips. If the light is on, then the circuit is shorted; if the light goes out, the circuit is broken.

Rice. 28. The simplest conductivity tester

To measure the insulation resistance of the network, meggers of the M-4100 / 4 type are used, designed for a voltage of 400 V. The resistance of grounding devices is checked with an M416 type device.

To determine the presence of voltage in the network, pointers and voltage indicators are used.

Single-pole voltage indicators UNN-1m, UNN-90, IN-90, IN-91 are designed to check the presence of voltage and determine the phase wires in AC electrical installations when connecting electricity meters, switches, lamp holders, fuses, etc.

Modern installation of electrical wiring and underfloor heating Nazarova Valentina Ivanovna

Internal wiring

Internal wiring

Wiring in wooden houses, as a rule, is performed open. Although hidden wiring is also possible, in order to carry it out taking into account all safety standards, considerable funds will be required, which is not always justified.

Wiring with open and unprotected cable

For fixed wiring, it is best to use rigid (single-wire) cables in double or even triple insulation. The insulation must be made of flame retardant materials. Such cables are VVGng or NYM. They can be fastened with electrical brackets directly to the surface if the cross section of the core does not exceed 6 mm 2 and the laying is carried out with a single cable. If you use a cable in ordinary insulation (for example, a very common PUNP), then it is necessary to install a gasket made of non-combustible material (metal or asbestos) under the cable so that it protrudes at least 10 mm on each side. Another option is to maintain an air gap of at least 10 mm from the combustible base. The latter option is similar to the "ancient" method of wiring with twisted wire on ceramic rollers. Unfortunately, neither the rollers nor the twisted wire is now almost impossible to get. Wiring made with electrical brackets and high-quality cable in non-combustible insulation without any lining will be quite reliable.

This method is the cheapest. Only a very controversial appearance should be considered a significant drawback, especially in those places where several cables have to be laid in parallel at once.

Wiring in an electrical corrugated pipe

The method is largely similar to the one described above. The difference is that the cable is pulled into a plastic, corrugated, flexible tube. Such pipes must be made of flame retardant materials and have an appropriate certificate. Pipes are fixed with special clips. Two or more cables can be pulled into one tube at once. The wiring looks neater, but it’s far from ideal here, because it all looks like some kind of production room. If a constriction is required, then you will have to remove the wiring in whole pieces and replace it, which is not always convenient. From a safety point of view, this method is preferable, since it provides increased protection against mechanical damage. In addition, some air gap from the combustible surface is provided. A variation of this wiring is wiring in rigid plastic pipes.

Wiring in cable ducts or electrical boxes

The cables are placed in plastic boxes (cable channels) and closed with snap-on covers. Cable channels must be made of flame retardant plastic.

It is not so easy to install the boxes carefully. It takes skill and a good tool. In addition, the straight lines of the boxes emphasize the curvature of walls and ceilings, which is common in our buildings. Therefore, an “advanced” spatial vision is also required so that the electrical wiring looks aesthetically pleasing and even decorates the room.

An important advantage is that in the future it is quite easy to make changes, add cables, change the configuration, install additional sockets and switches. A country house is like a living organism. You always want to change something, attach it, rebuild it. It is convenient if you can also quickly increase the wiring without getting into serious expenses and without making radical alterations.

Now on sale there are boxes of various sizes. You can also choose them by color. Additional elements are produced: internal and external corners, joints, bends, plugs. The presence of such fittings significantly facilitates installation, allows you to hide the possible curvature of the walls.

This text is an introductory piece. From the book The Big Newest Encyclopedia of Fishing author Goryainov Alexey Georgievich

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