If repairs are being started or are already ongoing in your house, then you will certainly face the question of how to lay tiles on cement. We are happy to inform you that it is quite possible to do it yourself! This will take some time and patience, but the result will please you, besides, you will not have to overpay for work, mask or redo flaws for negligent workers. So, arm yourself with everything you need - and go!
Any construction and repair work should begin with the selection of high-quality material. Therefore, you also have to approach this issue with a sober calculation. You will need the freshest cement (after a year of storage, it may lose a significant share of its gluing ability), it is better to choose, of course, a better brand, for example, from 300. Stock up on high-quality sand, coarse-grained sand is best, but clean, without small debris and pebbles. If you are not sure about the purity of the sand, pass it through a sieve.
Mix the cement mortar. For grade 300-400, take the ratio of 1 part of cement to 5 parts of sand, for grades 500-600, a ratio of 1 to 6 is suitable. In order for the tile to hold tighter, add PVA glue to the solution, about 1/25 of the total volume of the mixture. Do not leave the diluted solution, as it will quickly harden irreversibly.
Install lighthouse tiles on the floor that you will be equal to so that the rows are neat. Pull the cord at the level of the beacons, apply cement along it. Do not apply the solution over a large area to avoid drying out during work. The cement layer should be 5 mm thicker than the lighthouse tile.
Take a tile, moisten its reverse side with water and seat it firmly in the solution. Press the tile with gentle tapping of the hammer. Adjust the shrinkage height carefully according to the cord. After finishing one row, seat it with a long bar - this will finally align the tile. Align further rows with the first.
In order for the tiled masonry to look aesthetically pleasing, after the final hardening of the cement, carefully treat the seams with a special tile grout. Today, in hardware stores you can find an extensive range of these products, you can even match the grout to the color of your tile. In addition to the aesthetic factor, the grout will increase the strength of the tiled masonry, as it will not allow water to soak and crumble the cement, moreover, it is much easier to wash the debris accumulating there from the grouted joints.
Congratulations, you have just learned how to lay tiles on cement yourself! Now a little practice - and you will become a real professional in this matter. Good luck with the repair!
Often involves the use of floor tiles and cladding. It is made from natural and artificial stones, cement, ceramics and porcelain stoneware, as well as glass! Accordingly, for each type of material, a specific mortar for laying tiles is required. It contributes to the strong and long retention of tiles on the grounds.
Types of solutions for tiles
Based on pure cement
The most popular type and simple. It is diluted with water, getting the consistency of the test. It is used in the case when the base of the concrete floor is tiled with ceramic tiles.
In this case, water is poured onto the floor surface, cement is poured in dry form and the tile is pressed in in accordance with the drawings on it.
This version of the mortar for laying tiles on the floor is quite competitive with the second version of the mixture.
Based on sand and cement
When laying tiles on a sand-cement mortar, water, sand, cement should be added during the preparation of the tile-laying mortar. Such solutions are suitable for laying paving slabs, as well as for facing walls and floors.
To increase the strength and plasticity of the mass, PVA glue, latex or acrylic are added to it.
Dry types of adhesive mixes
They are sold ready-made, dry powders in bags. As a rule, their basis is cement, and there is also gypsum. The mixture activates its action when water is added to it. Additives in them can be: polymers and catalysts, dyes and hydrophobic components.
If we compare the convenience of self-prepared cement mortar and ready-made mixtures, in the second case, everything is much more convenient. The most popular brands are: Atlas, Sopro, Eunice, Vetonit (Optirok), Ceresit, Kreisel.
Viscous mastic, ready to use
To apply this material, the base must be level. They are packed, as a rule, in plastic buckets. Apply in a very thin layer. The material is based on latex or petroleum products, to which glue and other components are added. They are convenient to use, but they are not able to hold the slabs too tightly, compared to cement compositions. As a rule, this material is used on ceramics. In addition, it cannot be heated.
The difference between masonry mixtures
On floors and walls
What is in the structure of adhesive mixtures does not really matter. To lay tiles on walls, floors, the same mortar can be used. The difference is only in the applied thickness, as well as in the method of application. So, when the coating is clad on the floor, the tiles are laid on the cement mortar, in the process of finishing the walls, the mortar is applied to the back of the slabs.
External, internal works
On packages with dry mixes, manufacturers usually indicate under what conditions the material is suitable. For outdoor work, certain components are added to the composition during production, due to which the material behaves stably in relation to frost. Its elasticity increases, and also increases the ability to moisture resistance.
Solutions based on sand and cement are suitable for interior work, as well as for exterior cladding. It holds ceramic tiles fairly well, but it's still not worth the risk with vertical surfaces.
Different size of elements
The basic rule in laying ceramic slabs is that the smaller the size of the tile, the thinner the mortar must be prepared for it. But if the plates are heavier, use an adhesive mixture already, on which there will be a designation that it is reinforced. For example, Kreisel 103/104.
Dry or wet conditions
For corridors and kitchens, for example, the solution can be almost anything. But, if you line the pool, you will need a certain material here. It must have such properties that it will not collapse, exfoliate.
Tiles can be used on all types of floors and surfaces. Reliability, practicality, beauty are provided by the skill and skill of a specialist and the strength of the material.
Finishing the floor in the kitchen, in the corridor, in the bathroom is made with this material. He is not afraid of moisture, has strength and resistance to damage, impact. Originality of drawings gives perfection to an interior.
Laying tiles
- Classic tiling option;
- Ready-made compositions for styling;
- The reason why you can not lay tiles on cement mortar.
1) The classic mortar, but which the tiles are laid, is cement with the addition of a sand mixture.
2) The compositions are ready-made, more expensive in cost, but the quality of adhesion is better, there will be no shedding of the mixture and no cracks will form. Mastic solutions can be found in the store in plastic buckets or the composition has a dry substance.
The solution is prepared according to the instructions. Modifying and plasticizing additives are needed to increase adhesion.
3) The cement composition is used to level the base of the surface, seal cracks and cracks to get a perfectly even and smooth surface.
The cement composition levels the floor, but it gives thickness to the layer, the tile will lie on a dense base, and itself is a solid structure.
There will be a rise and strong pressure on the tile. When walking on a tiled surface, the cement layer will bulge and create gaps. The result may be tile peeling due to poor adhesion. Be sure to use a suitable solution, add glue for better adhesion of substances.
Compositions on which tiles are attached to the floor
- Solutions with synthetic resins, latex resins;
- Dry mixes;
- Adding PVA glue.
1) Porcelain stoneware has a smooth surface and poor adhesion. Synthetic resins are added to the adhesive mixture, which increase plasticity, increase the adhesion property of materials. Latex resin will ensure reliability in operation.
It is added to the finished solution. Savings should be, but if the quality of laying suffers, it is better to use the right tools.
If the base is made of cement, then a larger volume of mortar should be used than with a concrete field. Unglazed tiles are more expensive, the adhesion is worse, more adhesive mixture is required. Glazed composition is more economical.
2) Dry mixes are made from a special composition using the right substances. Great variety for species, surfaces and conditions.
Basic products for even surface planes, reinforced for larger tiles. Specific compositions for non-traditional floor bases: metal, glass.
3) The solution will be very strong if PVA glue is added to it. For 10 liters of the mixture, 200 grams of glue are used. Instead of glue, soap is added in a liquid state, washing powder diluted in water. Slaked lime increases water resistance and elasticity. Primer EC-30 will enhance hardening in cold weather.
Preparing the mixture
- The mixture is prepared according to the instructions;
- The process of laying tiles on the base.
1) The mixture is prepared according to the instructions. It is printed on the packaging. Water is not added to the composition. To avoid lumps, you need to mix with a drill with a nozzle - a mixer until a homogeneous mass.
Mix at the time of preparation and before application to the surface. Water should be at room temperature. Modifiers can change properties if the instructions for use are not followed.
The air temperature is 18 - 24 degrees. The mixture hardens, it must be prepared in portions. The master will be required to accelerate activities and quality results.
2) The tiles do not need to be soaked, the base of the floor is not moistened when using dry mixes. The surface must be clean. If cement mortar is used, if the risk of unsatisfactory results.
Cases of using low quality sand, not screened and not dried. Cement may be outdated, lost quality. For heavy tiles, a low grade of cement is used, and the situation will also cause problems.
Using dirty water for mortar or seawater composition will ferment, the substances will not adhere. Sand may leave lumps. An inhomogeneous mortar will swell the tile.
According to all the evidence given, the customer should choose what is suitable for his surface.
If tiles are being laid, then it is not necessary to use cement mortar, it is worth adding additives to it to increase the adhesive effect.
The tile should not swell, crack and get other deformation. Properly done work will lead to a good result.
What are the reasons for not laying tiles on cement mortar? Write your opinion in the comments.
Many people are afraid to lay tiles on cement mortar, as there are certain standards for laying tiles in this way. Some choose the adhesive base for laying tiles due to the fact that it takes less time, but it should be noted that using an adhesive solution reduces the durability of the installation itself and increases the cash costs for the purchase of the adhesive itself.
Preparatory part before laying tiles
Before starting work, it is necessary to prime the floor itself and prepare materials for mixing the cement mortar: you can buy both inexpensive cement and cement with some additives (most often used for pouring concrete, screeds).
Also, to prepare a cement-sand mortar, purchase building glue so that the mortar is more elastic. Sand and cement must be mixed in proportions of one to three (that is, there will be three buckets of sand per bucket of cement). Add water together with glue until a viscous mass is formed (not thick and not liquid) and mix. Thanks to the construction adhesive, the cement mortar is very elastic, even somewhat reminiscent of tile adhesive. The next step is to mark the tile laying pattern on the floor.
Unlike using tile adhesive, you don't need a comb. Instead of crosses, it is better to use a floor leveling system (clamps and wedges).
It is recommended to buy a rubber mallet (mallet), and not use your own hands to eliminate pain in your hand after two or three plates.
The process of laying tiles on cement mortar
The very work of laying tile material on a cement-sand mortar is not difficult. Lay out the first tile according to the level (laser or manual) in the middle of the room in accordance with the marking scheme made earlier. All other tiles will lie exactly from the central tile in level. Do not overtighten the clamps so that the tile does not burst.
Rubbing (smearing) the solution at the installation site of the tile is imperative so that the solution sets better both with the floor and with the tile. Please note that the batch number, direction and grade are always written on the back of the tile. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to sort through the tiles so that the batch numbers match, so that there are no problems with tile swelling in the future. The remains of the cement-sand mortar after laying the tiles are best removed. It is recommended to nail the tile on the side closest to the tile you have already laid so that all the grout does not fit into the joints of the laid tile material. Next, nail the tile, holding the edge. Do not forget to always check the level in width, length and height so that the tile lies evenly.
Tiles on cement mortar must be laid in such a way that there are no voids under the tile material itself and there is not too much mortar itself, as this can lead to the fact that excess mortar will crawl out through the seams between the laid tiles, or even lift the already laid tiles. This will lead to unnecessary work on leveling the already laid tiles, and therefore to significant time costs.
When laying the tiles, it is recommended to wet the reverse side of the tiles with water using a sprayer. Thanks to this, the excess cement mortar will easily come out, and not linger under the tiled material.
It is best to clean the seams with a used floor leveling system. And it is better to do this immediately, until the cement has hardened, otherwise it will be very problematic to remove the mortar from the joints in the future.
If you use the floor leveling system and plan to lay tiles for more than one day, then be sure to install clamps along all edges of the tile so that the next day, when the cement hardens, you do not have to suffer with installing the clamp already in the hardened mortar.
Summing up
When choosing a cement-sand or adhesive mortar, be guided by your own abilities and experience with mortars of one type or another. If you have difficulty using cement mortar, then it is better to stop your choice on adhesive mortar. You should also focus on the financial side, since the adhesive mortar itself is more expensive than cement-sand, not including the cost of purchasing related materials for laying tiles. But, if you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to entrust the work of laying tiled material to specialized organizations directly involved in this activity. As can be seen from all of the above, it is possible to lay tile material not only on the adhesive mortar, but also on the cement mortar. It all depends on your money
Tiled flooring is a practical and convenient option for flooring in the kitchen, hallway and bathroom. It is waterproof and durable, quickly cleaned of dirt, looks beautiful.
A rich assortment of manufactured products allows you to create original compositions and patterns. And in order for the tiled floor to be durable and strong, you need to use high-quality.
Types
Tile work on the floor is done first (before wall cladding). For their implementation, you can use both a classic solution (based on sand and cement) and ready-made compositions.
- The latter can be produced both in the form of viscous mastics (sold in plastic buckets), and in the form of a dry powder, in which water must be added before laying the tiles according to the instructions.
- Dry adhesive mixtures (they contain cement with modifying additives) are sold sealed in bags of 5 or 25 kilograms.
The specialist in this video will tell about the preparation of the mortar for floor tiles and its subsequent laying:
Important nuances
Unlike wall cladding, the floor requires a thicker layer of masonry mortar (from 3 millimeters). Which solution to choose depends on several factors.
For example, on how even the rough base of the floor is. If it is far from ideal, it often makes sense to use a cement composition that will simultaneously smooth out all the small bumps. In this case, the thickness of the mortar layer can reach up to 30 millimeters. Adhesive mixtures and mastics require a smooth, well-leveled surface.
In addition, when choosing a masonry composition, they also repel the type of tile. There are certain types of it (for example, porcelain stoneware), which have a smooth surface and extremely low adhesion. They require the use of a special adhesive mixture based on cement, to which synthetic resins are added - plasticizers.
Good adhesion to the base is also ensured by the introduction of latex resin into the finished cement mortar (made from a dry mix).
We also proceed from economic considerations. After all, ready-made mixtures will cost more than home-made. Let's take this into account when calculating the total amount of materials needed.
- It is worth remembering that for a cement base, the solution needs many times more than for a concrete one.
- Glazed tiles are more economical in this regard than unglazed tiles (which will take much more adhesive mixture).
Composition and structure
The formulation of ready-made dry compounds and mastics is the secret of manufacturers. Their plus is a wide variety of species for different surfaces and conditions. Yes, there are mixes.
- universal, basic (for flat surfaces),
- reinforced (for large tiles),
- as well as compositions intended for non-traditional bases (for example, glass, metal).
But the composition of the cement-sand mortar has been known for a long time: four (M300), five (M400 cement) or six (M500 and M600 cement) parts of river clean and dry add one part of cement (fresh, crumbly, preferably high grade). The sand is sifted with a sieve, thereby removing foreign inclusions in the form of pebbles and fragments of shells.
To enhance adhesion and plasticity, it is recommended to add PVA glue to the solution. Ten liters of the mixture will require only 200 grams of glue. If it is not at hand, you can add liquid soap, washing powder diluted in water, or one of the detergents.
There are other additives that improve the properties of the masonry mortar.
- For example, which can be replaced by MTS (LP) material, increases water resistance and elasticity.
- And to enhance frost resistance (if, say, tiles are placed on an unheated balcony or loggia), you can add Primer EC-30 - a special hardening accelerator that gives resistance to low temperatures.
Do-it-yourself mortar for laying tiles on the floor
Dilution of the finished dry mix
Here you need to carefully read the instructions - as a rule, it is either printed on the package or attached to the composition. Most importantly - do not pour water into the powder (lumps will remain). But if you carefully pour the mixture into water, stirring with a drill with a mixer nozzle, then the solution will be homogeneous and of high quality. Stir twice: during the preparation of the solution and before using it.
Moreover, the water should not be too cold or hot - only at room temperature. Otherwise, modifier additives may lose their properties. The recommended air temperature during work is from 18 to 24 degrees Celsius. Since the mixture hardens quickly, it is best to cook it in batches. In an amount that depends on the speed of the master.
Important: when using ready-made dry compounds, the tiles are not soaked, and the base of the floor is not moistened (it only needs to be well cleaned of dust and dirt).
About cement mortar for laying tiles on the floor, read on.
cement mortar
Well-sifted dry sand is mixed with the required amount of cement, then water is slowly added, mixing the composition. If necessary, use additives (for example, PVA). The desired consistency of the solution can be determined by taking a little mixture with a trowel. It should be plastic and be held without dripping. For small tiles, a thinner solution is needed, for large tiles, a thicker one.
Before laying on the cement mortar, the tiles are soaked in water for eight hours. Only at first it is worth doing this with a sample, as it happens that after that stains appear under the enamel on products of not very high quality. If the sample soaked and fixed on cement has not lost its appearance after a couple of days, then everything is fine. Otherwise, instead of soaking, wipe the back of the tiles with a wet cloth before work.
If it is to be on a concrete floor, then the task is greatly simplified. It is enough to pour water on the concrete, and then pour a layer of cement (or sand with cement in equal proportions) through a sieve with a total layer of about 3 millimeters (up to 30 millimeters if there are irregularities). On the resulting "dough" we put the tiles, not forgetting to first place the beacons in the corners.
So, now you know about the installation of tile floors and cement mortar for it, let's talk about the common mistakes of novice repairmen.
This video will tell you more about laying tiles on dry cement:
How to avoid mistakes
In the manufacture of cement mortar for floor tiles, an unsatisfactory result can be obtained:
- use low quality sand without drying it and sieving it;
- use old, caked cement that has lost its properties (or take it when laying heavy tiles);
- use dirty (from a puddle, swamp, heating pipes) or sea water;
- mix the mortar poorly, leaving unmixed lumps of cement or sand;
- lay tiles on ordinary cement mortar that require the use of special mixtures (for example, made of porcelain stoneware);
When preparing the composition for laying from a dry adhesive mixture, it is impossible:
- use too hot or ice water;
- first pour the powder into the container, and then pour water (there will be dry lumps around the edges in this case);
- prepare a solution when it is too cold or hot (below plus 18 and above plus 24 degrees);
- soak the tiles and moisten the base of the floor;
- use a dirty container in which the previous solution was prepared to prepare the mixture (this will lead to the appearance of solid inclusions);
- stir the composition at too high a speed of a drill with a nozzle (it will then foam) or too slowly (then dry lumps will not break).
About how to wash dirty floor tiles from mortar, read below.
The following video will teach you how to install tiles on the floor easily and without problems:
How to clean dirty floor tiles from mortar
- It is best not to hesitate with this - the fresh composition is much easier to remove. If the cement has not yet hardened, you need to take a sponge and a bowl of clean water. Everything will be wiped off in a short time, without the use of physical force.
- You can try to remove dried cement with a spatula, but very, very carefully. Especially if the tiles are expensive. And then there may be scratches. Therefore, first you need to moisten the contaminated area well. When the cement softens, you can begin to act.
- In more severe cases, we use special means:
- cleaning solutions for ceramics;
- solvents for glue;
- toilet bowl cleaner (helps to cope with old cement stains, applied several times);
- five percent hydrochloric acid solution.
Each of these agents is intended to serve to soften pollution. Only they act more effectively than water. Then the surface is cleaned with a sponge, brush or spatula.
- Another way is to use regular salt. The stain is moistened with water, sprinkled with table salt and left for a while. Then scrub with a stiff brush and rinse with a light alkali-based product.
- If all else fails, take the chisel and hammer. But this is an extreme case, like a grinder or a special nozzle for a drill - a brush.
