Many of us, with the phrase “stove heating of a private house”, recall the village, grandmother's pies, log houses, our household and carefree vacations. However, with age, such heating becomes an urgent and modern issue. In many regions of Russia, it is much more profitable and easier to heat a house on your own than to connect to a gas pipeline. Let's figure out why.
There are a huge number of different types of solid fuel stoves for heating in a wooden house: brick, cast iron, gas, with a water circuit and others. We will analyze the most basic types, consider their advantages and disadvantages, as well as the basic principles of operation and selection of such furnaces.
Furnace in the house: types, pros, cons
At home or at work - this is low efficiency, frequent and other inconveniences. Getting rid of the cold is a paramount task, especially in the winter season. But before you put a stove in the house for heating rooms, you need to take into account a number of parameters, based on which it is worth making a choice. First you need to understand how many rooms will be heated, because the type of stove to be installed depends on it.
Wood burning stove
If you need to heat two or three rooms, then a brick oven will be the best choice. It should be borne in mind that the house itself must be well insulated with internal and external finishes.
Fuel type for such a stove, either coal or firewood is used. The design of the oven must satisfy not only the need to maintain heat in the rooms, but also the need for cooking - the stove must have a hob.
Second question - place. For greater efficiency, wood stoves should be placed in such a place that they can easily heat all three rooms, for example, if the stove is one wall in one room, and the whole structure in two others. That is, only the one in which the stove is in contact with a large number of rooms in the house can be considered the best choice of place.
Further - dimensions. The degree of heat transfer and how quickly the stove will cool or heat the room will depend on the size of the furnace, on its massiveness. If the design is massive enough, then by flooding the stove in the evening, you will receive heat in the rooms until the very morning, and this one of the benefits is fuel economy. But from this follows minus: a good brick oven takes up a lot of space in the house.
The correct design of the furnace will create the necessary traction in order to prevent carbon monoxide from entering the premises, so you should take a responsible approach to the issue of its choice. It is better to build such a furnace from high-quality burnt red brick: it is practical and convenient for laying. Brick for the hottest surfaces should be refractory.
Installation it is desirable to deal with such a furnace during the construction of a house, separating its foundation from the general one.
The foundation of the furnace is separated from the main foundation in order to avoid possible destruction of the furnace caused by shrinkage of the walls of the furnace itself or the building.
You can also put it in an already built building, but in this case you will have to make cuts in the ceiling and roof for the chimney and raise the floor level under the stove.
The disadvantages of such an oven include:
- long heating - a decent amount of time is spent on heating the furnace, but this minus is compensated by the fact that the furnace also cools down for a long time;
- wood heating of a private house has a low efficiency - about 25%, since the main heat comes out through the chimney;
- a wood-burning stove in a private house heats itself, that is, its walls, and the air is already heated from the walls;
- a constant presence is necessary to monitor the temperature level in the firebox and to throw up firewood, as well as for firefighting purposes.
If the solid fuel stove is rather bulky, and there is not enough heat from it for a given heating area, then it is better to purchase.
A wood-burning boiler, with smaller dimensions compared to a stove, can heat all rooms, since the principle of operation is very simple. Burnt firewood gives off heat to the built-in heat exchanger, pipes are brought to the latter, through which heated water flows throughout the house to heating sources: batteries, radiators and others. In addition, both the boiler and the chimney give off heat to the room.
But there are also disadvantages:
- big weight;
- lack of automatic modes of control and maintenance of temperature;
- fire safety - the constant presence of a person is necessary, there is no possibility to leave for a long time;
- the boiler needs a separate room.
By the way, many are wondering: what is the difference between a fireplace and a stove? The simplest answer is that a fireplace is not suitable for heating a large area, even inside one room. It has an open hearth of heat and a chimney built into the top. The latter is made with a large cross section to provide high traction to prevent smoke from entering the room. As a conclusion: the whole house cannot be heated by a fireplace, unlike a stove.
In case it is necessary to heat houses with more than three rooms, more often use brick oven with water heating. The principle of operation of such a furnace is to heat water in a circuit built into the furnace itself, from where it flows through pipes to radiators in other rooms and, having cooled down, returns to the furnace for heating.
For wiring, polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes are most often used.
The circuits themselves have a different structure, but the same main task is to heat the internal fluid. To speed up the movement of the heat exchange element - water - a water pump is included in such a circuit.
When heated, the water pressure increases and, so that the heating system does not fail, they are built into the circuit.
Its purpose is to control water pressure surges in the pipes: with an increase in temperature, excess water enters the tank and pulls the membrane built into it, when it cools, the water goes back into the system, returning the membrane to its place.
The choice of heat exchanger is an important part of the installation of such a furnace. If the wall thickness of metal pipes is less than 5 mm, this is fraught with the analysis of the structure after a few years due to its failure.
In this case, the equipment warms up not only itself, but also the water flowing through the pipes into the rooms for uniform heating, which increases efficiency.
An excellent solution for small houses, including country houses, will be a cast-iron stove, because, despite its small size, this type of heating is acceptable for rooms of 80-90 cubic meters. In such ovens, as a rule, a hob is already built in, which is in the hands of the housewives. The modern, graceful design of such heating equipment will give a special touch to your interior. For this reason, such stoves can often be found in mansions and expensive houses.
Again, the most convenient solution for heating a house is heating long burning cast iron stove, which, due to its design, is able to give off heat for a long time with a single laying of firewood. This effect is achieved due to the internal design of the furnace, which makes it possible to transfer active combustion to a slow smoldering mode, which is very saves on fuel consumption.
Compared to brick ovens, "cast iron" has small dimensions and takes up much less space.
The most powerful stove in terms of heating - gives heat even to two- and three-story houses. The principle of operation is the same as that of brick ovens with a water circuit. The difference is that in this case the stove is cast iron, it can have two water heating lines and electric heating.
Two heating lines mean that in addition to heating, the owner of such a stove will also receive water heating.
The latter function is very useful, because when the temperature of smoldering firewood drops, electric heating is turned on - a kind of protection against heat leaving the rooms.
The design of such furnaces consists of a body, a burner, a firebox and a heating shield. Such furnaces operate on liquefied and natural gases, have small dimensions, can either be connected to a gas main or operate autonomously from cylinders. It is better to warm up small rooms with such stoves, up to about 50 cubic meters, since the rooms are more heated by such stoves worse.
The principle of operation of such stoves is similar to the principle of brick stoves: the walls of the firebox heat up during the combustion of fuel, thereby transferring the temperature to the rooms. The air necessary for the reaction is supplied through the blower, and the products of processing are discharged through the chimney adjacent to the firebox.
Since gas stoves differ in structure and operation from wood stoves, we will consider their advantages and disadvantages separately.
The disadvantages of such furnaces include:
- high cost - the purchase of new equipment and its installation will cost the owners a pretty penny;
- heavy installation and connection - you can’t do without a specialist for sure. But even a professional must check everything with great care, since the slightest mistake can easily lead to danger to the life of the owners of the house.
But that's where the cons end, and now the pros:
- environmental friendliness - unlike solid fuel stoves, gas stoves are less toxic;
- Efficiency - in severe frosts, such furnaces will not let you down;
- ease of operation - just connect the oven to the gas and that's it;
- service life - 10-12 years of trouble-free operation is promised by manufacturing companies. In reality, this period is much higher.
Let's sum up the pros and cons of furnace equipment.
The pluses include:
- even when the water and electricity are turned off, your house will always be warm, since the autonomous stove will be the source of heat;
- price criterion - the cost of furnaces and their operation is quite affordable for many residents of different regions of our country;
- economical fuel;
The price for 4-6 cubic meters of firewood is about 6-7 thousand rubles, and this volume is enough for six months in an average house.
- ease of operation and maintenance - you do not need to call specialists to properly set up the operation of the furnace;
- geography of operation - no additional communications are required for furnaces, therefore it can be installed in any home in any region.
Now let's talk about the cons:
- long heating - the furnace spends a large amount of time heating its own walls and coolant;
- low efficiency of many affordable designs of brick ovens due to the removal of the main heat through the chimney;
- large volume occupied by brick ovens: only in the case of its massiveness such a furnace heats several rooms;
- constant supervision of the operation of the stove and laying firewood, as a rule, in brick ovens;
- environmentally unfriendly - one brick kiln emits particulate matter into the atmosphere, like five old diesel engines.
In any case, the choice of oven depends on many factors, and if you have a large house, then a brick oven may be the best solution.
There are two common methods of thermal insulation of the wall sheet, we will consider each separately.
Quite often, a modern measure of thermal insulation is the construction of an additional wall layer - for example, from a ten-bar. This warm building material has good safety performance - even at high temperatures it does not emit harmful substances.
Mounting process:
- A crate is mounted on the masonry;
- A hydroprotection is fixed along it (usually, this is a film);
- Next, a beam is attached and the next layer of the crate is mounted on it;
- Now the timber is hidden under the fiberglass, fixed with a construction stapler to the crate (here it is important not to forget to leave room for the heat insulator, the fiberglass is laid with an overlap).
- The stage of installation of the insulator has come (through the spans between the layer of the crate);
- After that, for highly efficient insulation of a brick wall, it is worth laying a layer of vapor barrier or foil (this will protect the insulator from steam from the inside);
- The final stage of the events is the laying of the lining.
Regardless of what material was chosen as a heater, its thickness should be at least ten centimeters. The choice of an insulator should take into account the fact that some building materials behave differently under different temperature conditions. In some, high temperature provokes the release of harmful components, while others are not subject to this.
The best insulation in this regard are materials based on basalt wool or fiberglass, as they are not afraid of steam. Someone likes more penoplex, which has an excellent property - it quickly fades during a fire. But we do not recommend using this material, since at a temperature of one hundred degrees and above, polystyrene begins to char, releasing toxic substances. It is recommended to use basalt heaters directly in the thermal insulation of the steam room.
When insulating walls in a brick bath from the inside, you can use the method of enhanced thermal insulation - lay the insulation in two layers. If we compare this method with the first, then the main difference is that instead of a wooden structure, a second layer of heat insulator is mounted in the crate. The approximate thickness of a cake made using the second technology will be 22 centimeters and include the following layers:
- Brickwork;
- Hydroprotection;
- crate;
- thermal insulation layer;
- Hydroprotection;
- The crate is secondary;
- Fiberglass;
- thermal insulation layer;
- Steam protection;
- Clapboard.
As for the choice of material, the insulation of brick walls using the second technology allows you to combine heaters. For example, extruded polystyrene foam can be used in the first layer from the brick, since the material is not afraid of possible moisture penetration from the outside. The second heat-insulating layer is selected taking into account the type of room, for example, foil foam is completely unsuitable for a steam room, but it can be easily used in all other rooms. This insulator, coated on one side with foil, will not only protect against steam, but will also be an excellent reflector of IR rays.
When insulating the walls of a steam room in a brick bath from the inside, it is recommended to stop at a basalt insulator. The latter must be covered with foil for baths, which will avoid the release of toxins during severe overheating.
If you are interested in warming a brick bath from the inside, the video below will tell you in more detail about certain thermal insulation measures.
Brick load-bearing walls are distinguished by high thermal conductivity and heat capacity, acting in these properties as the complete opposite of log cabins.
We carry out warming of a brick bath from the inside, only at the stove we do not forget about fire safety
Unlike thermal insulation of residential premises, it makes no sense to insulate a bath from ceramic or silicate bricks from the outside. For buildings with periodic heating, the heat capacity plays a negative role, since it requires more time for heating. For this reason, the main thermal insulating layer in brick baths should be placed exclusively as part of the inner sandwich.
The main technologies of internal thermal insulation of the wall
If we are talking about a private bath, it does not make sense to maintain a constant temperature above zero from the inside all the time. But due to periodic use in the cold season, the walls can freeze through, and when trying to flood the bathhouse, all the heat goes mainly to heat the stone. When performing insulation from the outside, the brick almost does not heat up, only the lining covers it, so much more resources will be spent on heating than it could.
Thermal insulation of the bath walls from the inside helps to reduce fuel costs. When properly installed, the heat-insulating material does not release heated air outside, and it is stored inside the room.
Wall sandwich scheme
You can find recommendations for warming brick baths with the help of internal masonry made of wooden beams with a section of 100 × 100 mm, on top of which a layer of mineral wool is mounted. This begs the question: why mess with brick at all if the first layer of such insulation is a strong enough wall for a one-story building? This scheme is not feasible from an economic point of view.
- decorative interior trim (lining, grooved board, etc.);
- gap 1 - 2 cm;
- folgoizol, oriented with the reflective side inward;
- mineral wool (slabs or roll material 10 cm thick);
- waterproofing membrane.
Insulation of a brick bath is easy to carry out from the inside with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. To do this, it is quite enough to confidently own a drill, stapler, hacksaw and screwdriver, as well as have enough free time. First, a membrane is attached to the load-bearing wall. Then a vertical crate is mounted, with a thickness equal to the insulation layer or exceeding it by 1 - 2 cm.
Often, experts use double wall insulation, while installing two battens with heaters 100 mm thick. The process is more complicated, but it will not be difficult to do it yourself.
If penoplex is used as a heater, then there is no need to install hydro and vapor barrier layers. But here it is better not to refuse the crate. This is the base on which the lining will be mounted.
Option number 2
The second way to insulate a brick bath is to build another wall near the walls, only wooden with a heat-insulating layer. To do this, a frame of wooden slats is installed on the brick.
Its elements can be laid horizontally or vertically. It is up to everyone to decide. But remember that the elements of the wall itself will be laid perpendicular to the elements of the frame:
- Now a waterproofing membrane is stretched and fastened along the crate.
- Next, a second wall is built. It is most often erected from wooden beams with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. Please note that the elements of the new wall must fit tightly to each other. Such a thickness of a wooden wall is already an excellent indicator of thermal insulation.
- And now you need to decide whether to use additional insulation or not. If “yes”, then a crate is assembled along the new wall, where the heat insulator is laid. A vapor barrier or foil roll material is installed on top of the crate. If there is no need for insulation, then the crate is mounted anyway, only from rails of small thickness. A waterproofing material is stretched on top of the frame.
- And the last stage is the decoration of the walls with clapboard.
Warming a brick bath from the inside and with your own hands is not so simple, but not very difficult either. It is very important to protect the building from heat leakage, so it is important to ensure that all stages of thermal insulation are performed strictly in sequence. How to properly insulate a brick bath from the inside? You should start with floor insulation.
To equip a concrete floor, you will need more than one layer, because with proper insulation of the bath, moisture should not get on the thermal insulators.
First you need to start planning and compacting the soil. In case this is difficult to do due to large stones, the base is leveled with sand. Next, cut-off waterproofing spreads, for example, super-dense cellophane, and the edges are wrapped onto the walls. They should be much higher than the level of the screed.
Then, before filling the expanded clay, a pillow with a thickness of at least twenty millimeters of sand is poured. Despite the fact that, according to the instructions, this pillow can be laid under the cut-off, it is still better to do it from above - when dry, the sand also plays the role of a thermal insulator, but not when it is wet. Then a layer of expanded clay is poured from above, its thickness is adjusted depending on the need.
Cut-off waterproofing is not required here. To fill the screed, it is enough to put the profiles for the guide directly into the expanded clay. Optionally, you can also install reinforcement under the beacons to secure the screed monolith.
It may very well be that you install a drain in the floor. Be careful: when using, water should not fall beyond the edges of the funnel, soaking the thermal water and electrical insulation.
Wall insulation
Warming the walls of the bath from the inside with your own hands is actually not such a difficult task if you follow our instructions. You should start with a stripe of a crate for lining made of wood. Most often, the crate is mounted on consoles made of metal perforated hangers for drywall profiles.
But before proceeding with the installation of the consoles, it would not hurt to attach the hydro-barrier to the wall with glue or even with double-sided tape. Then it is necessary to put U-shaped brackets on it.
If efflorescence is equally formed on all walls, then the reasons may lie in the quality of the brick, the composition of the mortar, and the violation of the masonry technology. However, in the case of localization of salts on individual walls of the bathhouse and their sections, it makes sense to revise the insulating sandwich, provided that the influence of the unsuccessful design of ebbs on the process is excluded. It is necessary to do this in order to align the operating mode along the entire bearing perimeter in order to increase the life of the building.
- add foil insulation if it has not been installed earlier, or eliminate possible defects in this layer (for example, poor-quality sealing of joints);
- provide a ventilated gap between the vapor barrier and the main thermal insulation;
- add an exhaust vent.
... Among them there are those built of brick.
But, to be honest, brick is far from the best material for bath construction. However, the circumstances are different: some of their own free will choose it, putting solidity, reliability and fireproofness at the forefront, others already have a brick extension in the yard, but there is no bath yet, so they find use for what they have.
Anyway, such baths exist, which means you need to know how to achieve maximum comfort from them.
Does it need to be insulated?
If, regarding other materials, disputes are appropriate as to whether insulation is necessary or not in their case, then there is no reason for doubt: warming a brick bath is a must. The brick has a high thermal conductivity, therefore, without insulation, the bath will heat up for a very long time, and, on the contrary, cool down very quickly.
Just imagine how much time and firewood it takes to heat the walls that have had time to freeze through at sub-zero temperatures. By the way, heaters are always compared with a brick wall, saying that where meters of masonry are needed, you can get by with a few centimeters of insulation.
However, the next question requires more detailed consideration.
Insulation of a brick bath: inside or outside?
In the event that you have to choose between which side it would be better to sheathe the bath with insulation, it is worth seeing what will happen in both cases.
The creation of bricks with internal voids has reduced the thermal conductivity of the material, but their use is limited by the heat-insulating layer, and the solid brick remains the basis of the load-bearing walls. But even laying in several rows will not solve all the problems with bath thermal insulation, therefore it is more profitable to make the insulation of a brick bath, sheathing.
Brick bath insulation: methods
To date, the owners of a brick bath can choose between several ways of interior finishing with either tiles or clapboard. Let's start with the method where plaster is used:
- The first layer on top of a brick wall is its waterproofing, for example, using bituminous mastic. For this, talc, asbestos and lime are added to the mastic. The resulting mass is applied directly to the walls.
- Then the surface is plastered, and expanded clay and finely chopped slag are mixed into the plaster solution.
- A crate is placed on the plaster layer, between the bars of which fiberglass is laid - a non-combustible heat insulator similar to asbestos, but environmentally friendly.
- A layer of insulation is placed on the fiberglass - for example, basalt or kaolin wool.
- Then everything is covered with a vapor barrier, for example, foil or foil fabric.
- Only the finishing layer remains - the same lining, for example. It is attached to a crate with a ventilation gap.
Tile option:
- waterproofing;
- crate;
- insulation between the racks of the crate;
- vapor barrier;
- reinforcing mesh;
- plaster;
- tile.
Method without plaster:
- The first layer on top of the inner surface of the wall is waterproofing - either a film or the one described above.
- A crate of timber with a section of 5x5 is vertically stuffed. The step between the bars is equal to the width of the seal minus 1 cm, so that it lies tightly in the spacer.
- Fiberglass is attached to the crate without tension.
- Insulation, for example, basalt wool (not containing phenolic impregnation) is placed in the gaps left between the posts in two layers, with a half-width shift in the second layer so that cold bridges do not appear. The total insulation layer is 10 cm.
- A reflective vapor barrier is placed on top of the insulation, for example, a simple foil for a steam room and Penofol for other rooms. The vapor barrier is overlapped and sealed with aluminum tape.
- If the finishing is carried out by clapboard, then there should be a ventilation gap between it and it. To do this, a crate is made of bars of the desired section, on top of which the lining is attached.
Ceiling insulation
Warm air and steam are always collected under the ceiling. Therefore, the owner of the bath must definitely think about warming it so that the heat is not wasted.
This applies to any type of ceiling - hemmed, floor or panel, regardless of what is on top:.
IMPORTANT! Above the steam room, the ceiling needs a double layer of vapor barrier.
A brick bath can become very comfortable, but this will require a large investment of labor and money from the owner. Therefore, it is worth going to the construction of such a bath only if it seems completely acceptable.
Where to order or buy
It is possible to order the service of warming the walls of the bath by contacting the employees of companies whose main specialization is.
If you have certain skills, it is possible to do the work on warming with your own hands. In this case, the contractor will need to select and buy a heater, different types of which are offered by the companies represented on our site.
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