Filling the floor is not the easiest procedure, but if you approach it wisely, then everything can be done quite well. professional level. In private homes, concrete floors can most often be seen, since they have a lot of advantages in comparison with analogues from other materials. With a detailed step by step instructions, a person who does not have the necessary experience and knowledge will be able to independently pour concrete in a private house.
It can be said with certainty that from now known materials, with which floors are mounted, concrete is considered one of the most affordable and common. High performance strength, long service life, low probability of surface damage and ease of pouring are the main advantages of such solutions.
It is noteworthy that in the summer months the cost of concrete may rise slightly. This is due to an increase in demand for it and the intensification of construction and repair work. In any case, if you stock up on the main components of the solution (gravel, cement and sand) in advance, then there will not be much difference in price.
The order of pouring the floor looks something like this:
- marking the level of concrete on the walls;
- tamping and leveling the ground;
- backfilling of crushed stone, gravel and sand with their subsequent compaction;
- laying of insulating materials;
- reinforcement;
- installation of guides and formwork;
- preparation of concrete solution;
- directly pouring concrete;
- coupler.
Such an instruction can be called a reference variant. It is better to stick to it in a strict order. For example, if you skip the stage of laying heat and waterproofing due to lack of funds, then later on such savings can be seriously regretted. It is very problematic to remove the concrete floor after its installation.
Final level floor covering must match the height door sills, which is why it is necessary to focus on them. On the walls, use the level to beat off the height marks around the entire perimeter of the room. Alternative option stretching the cords over hammered nails or drawing stripes with a pencil is considered.
After that, it is necessary to mark the zero of the floor. The work will be carried out starting from it. Ideally, you can get laser level, which guarantees the accuracy of marking and subsequent filling. Such equipment is not cheap, which means that not everyone can afford to buy it. If there is no such device, building level completely replace it.
Before working with soil, it is necessary to get rid of construction debris, which is usually collected in excess indoors during construction and repair operations. For a successful floor screed, care must be taken that the bearing surface is free from cracks and crevices.
When working with soil, its upper layer is always removed. Thus, it will be possible to reach the zero of the floor. After that, you can start tamping the soil. As a result of this procedure, a perfectly flat and fairly solid platform should be obtained. The quality of its compaction can be judged by the dents from the feet of people. Even with increased pressure on the ground, it should remain flat. If you can’t get to the desired floor level, you should take another upper layer soil and replace it with sand. This bulk material denser.
To reduce the harmful effects ground water, the top layer of soil can be smeared with a little clay dissolved in water. This will serve as a kind of auxiliary waterproofing of the base.
Bulk materials
First on load-bearing base gravel falls. Since each layer must have its own thickness, it is recommended to drive several stakes with numerical marks into the ground. Water can be used to compact the material. The thickness of the gravel layer should not exceed 5-10 cm. It is also important to evenly level the material.
Sand is added next. The thickness of this layer is also about 10 cm. Again, everything is abundantly watered with water for better tamping. If the level pegs were not long enough, new ones can be hammered in.
The particle size should not exceed 40 by 50 mm. The rules for tamping the material are the same as for sand and gravel. Ideally, the surface should be smooth and perfectly flat. It is necessary to follow the horizontal at this stage using a conventional or laser level.
As a waterproofing, a special polyethylene film or membrane is often used. A thickness of 200 microns is enough with a head. The future floor covering is carefully covered with such a film. If the membrane is made up of several separate pieces, then they should be overlapped with a retreat of 10-15 cm. You can fix everything with ordinary tape. Groundwater can create serious problems for concrete floors in private homes, so waterproofing is very important.
Protecting the flooring from temperature changes will help create a favorable and comfortable atmosphere indoors, even in harsh winters. For thermal insulation of concrete, polyurethane foam, expanded clay, polystyrene, perlite, basalt and mineral wool, expanded polystyrene. In principle, there is no significant difference between these materials, which means that you can choose any. Most often, builders use expanded clay.
How more area pouring concrete, the higher the risk of damage, cracking or cracking. Accordingly, the floor needs additional protection. Reinforcement is able to cope with this task. The procedure consists in installing a reinforcing or iron frame for insulating materials.
Reinforcement is important primarily because it provides the floor with the necessary strength. The frame is placed on clamps evenly distributed over the surface of the future floor. With their help, the reinforcement is carried out to a height of 2-3 cm. In the case of using ready-made metal mesh, it should be stretched along the driven stakes. It is better to tie individual parts with wire.
Guides and formwork
The accuracy of pouring concrete solution largely depends on the formwork and guides. For their manufacture, boards or plywood are used. With their help, the floor is divided into several compartments, the level of which is checked against the marks previously knocked out on the walls. To make the tree come out of concrete more easily, it is pre-lubricated special solution.
In order to fill the floor, first of all, you need to do concrete mortar. For this, cement, crushed stone and sand are mixed. Next, the dry mixture is diluted with water. Everything is done in strict proportions. Largest share given to a large filler. M400 is considered the optimal brand of cement for private houses.
It is not worth stocking up on this material in advance, since it tends to absorb moisture from the environment. Over time, this makes the cement unsuitable for use in the construction and repair industry.
To prepare one hundred liters of concrete, 3 buckets of cement are mixed, 5 - sand and 8 - crushed stone. The amount of water in each separate case different is selected. The main thing is that the final solution should be moderately liquid and moderately viscous. The dry mixture is prepared in advance, and water is added gradually during the kneading process. At home, the easiest way to do this is to use a drill with a mixer attachment. With the help of such a tool, high-quality concrete will be obtained.
To make the coating monolithic and durable, it is poured in one, maximum two approaches. You can compact concrete with a vibrator, and level the flooring with a rule. The layer thickness must be at least 7 mm. You can simplify the process of smoothing concrete with the help of beacons, which, even before pouring the floor, are installed on the surface of the bearing base.
Perfect flat surface can be obtained by performing a screed. After that, the flooring is ready for laying tiles or laminate on it.
The solution is poured in portions into the formwork directly onto reinforcing cage. With the movements of the rule along the guides, the mixture evenly falls on the surface of the future floor. Concreting should be started from the far corner of the room so that, if necessary, it is possible to get out of it without hindrance.
When all operations are completed, it is advisable to cover the concrete with polyethylene so that air does not prevent it from setting. It is better to pull out the guide rails only the next day after pouring. It is also recommended to actively water the solution with water. This should be done not only in the first hours after pouring, but at least 2 times a day for the next two weeks. Experts say that the floor will gain full strength only after four weeks.
Video - Filling the floor in a private house
findings
If you follow these instructions, then filling the floor in a private house should not present serious difficulties. The main thing is not to rush when performing individual operations. You need to prepare the necessary Construction Materials and tools so as not to pause in the process of pouring concrete.
Concrete floor on the ground in a private house is a well-known universal way arrangement of reliable and warm base. Through the use of new types of insulation, we get good thermal insulation the entire floor, which leads to a reduction in the cost of public utilities. And also the insulation is an obstacle to the penetration of moisture and the appearance of fungus and mold.
And the most important thing is that this species you can build the floor with your own hands. In this article we will analyze all the advantages and disadvantages. Consider in detail the arrangement of the floor on the ground.
Floor on the ground: the pros and cons
Let's start with the fact that this type of floor is a "layer cake". And each layer has its own functions and purpose, thanks to such a device, the floor on the ground has a number of advantages:
There are not many disadvantages, but they are all there:
Cannot be used on loose ground.
How to make the right floor construction on the ground
We will consider the correct classic floor structure, which will consist of 9 layers. We will analyze each layer separately.
It’s worth saying right away that for each master and specialist, the number of layers can change, and the materials can also differ.
This type of floor is ideal for a strip foundation. The average thickness of the “floor pie” is approximately 60-70 cm. This should be taken into account when building the foundation.
If your foundation height is not enough, then choose the soil, up to given depth. Level the surface and tamp. For convenience, in the corners around the entire perimeter, a scale should be applied in increments of 5 cm, so it will be more convenient to navigate in layers and levels.
It is important that for compacting the soil it is best to rent a vibrating plate, since manual way will take a lot of time and will not give such results as a special device.
Clay. If during the sampling of the earth you have reached a layer of clay, then you should not fill in a new one. The layer thickness must be at least 10 cm. 
Clay is sold in bags, we pour it out and moisten it with a special solution (4 liters of water + 1 teaspoon of liquid glass), and we carry out ramming using a vibrating plate. After tamping, we spill a layer of clay with cement milk (10 liters of water + 2 kg of cement).
We make sure that there are no puddles. As soon as you spill clay with this composition, the process of glass crystallization begins.
You should not do anything for a day, it is worth waiting for the crystallization process to seize, and it will end in about 14-16 days. This layer prevents the main flow of water from the ground.
Layer of waterproofing material. The purpose of this layer is to protect the insulation from moisture. You can use roofing material, polymer-bitumen materials, PVC membranes and polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.4 mm.
In the case of using roofing material, it is preferable to lay it in two layers, on liquid bitumen. Lay waterproofing overlap with each other and on the walls.
Between themselves 10-15 cm, and on the walls to the height of the floor level. The seams must be glued with construction tape. Walking on waterproofing material should be in soft shoes.
insulation+ layer of vapor barrier. The best material for insulation is extruded polystyrene foam (EPS). For reference, EPPS 5 cm thick can replace a 70 cm layer of expanded clay.
But so, you can use perlite concrete and sawdust concrete. Insulation sheets are laid without joints, so that one plane is formed.
The thickness is determined depending on the region, the recommended thickness of the insulation is 5-10 cm. Some use mats 5 cm thick, and lay two layers, with offset seams, and glue the upper seams with special adhesive tape.
In order to remove cold bridges from the foundation or basement, the insulation is laid vertically and fastened with dowels with inside. Experts recommend insulating the basement from the outside, with one sheet of insulation and also fixing it with dowels. 
On top of the insulation should be laid a layer of vapor barrier. As vapor barrier material it is best to use PVC membranes, they do not rot and have long term operation. The disadvantage of this material is the high cost.
The main task of the vapor barrier material is to protect the insulation from the harmful alkaline effects of the concrete solution. The material is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm and glued with construction tape.
We make smoothing with the help of a rule or a vibrating screed. As soon as the solution dries, the beacons should be removed, and the cavities filled with a solution.
The entire concrete floor should be covered with a film and watered periodically. In a month, the concrete will gain full strength. To pour concrete with my own hands, I make a solution of the following composition: cement + river sand in a ratio of 1 to 3.
In the case of using underfloor heating technology, water or electric. Be sure to mount the rough floor screed on the ground. 
After laying the insulation, pipes or wires are laid. Then we fill the cavities with concrete, lay the reinforcing elements and continue pouring concrete to a predetermined level.
The technology of floors on the ground can be used not only in brick and stone houses, but so, the same in houses made of wood. At right approach and correct calculations, the layers do not harm the wooden elements.
Finish flooring. The resulting concrete surface is suitable for any type of fine flooring. It all depends on your preferences and financial capabilities.
As mentioned above, the combination of components, and the number of layers may be different. It all depends on your finances and capabilities.
Conclusion
As we all know, from 20 to 30% of heat can go through the floor. In cases where there is no “warm floor” system, the floors should be as thermally insulated as possible, and this in turn increases the energy efficiency of the entire house.
The owner of a private house receives comfort, coziness and savings on utility bills. Floors on the ground with insulation are a highly effective and long-term choice for every owner.
Most developers, when choosing a ground floor floor design, consider two options. The first is reinforced concrete slabs.
Second - wooden beams(lags). The fact that you can make a high-quality and inexpensive floor on the ground, many do not know.
Meanwhile, this design cannot be called new. It began to be used after the invention artificial stone called concrete.
We will talk about what constitutes a floor covering on bulk soil, what are its pros and cons, in this article.
At its core, the floor on the ground is a "cushion" of fine gravel or expanded clay, on which lies reinforced slab from monolithic concrete. Ballast bedding performs two tasks:
- raises the level of coverage to a predetermined height;
- transfers the weight of the structure to the ground.
From soil moisture and heat loss, the floor is protected by a heater laid on a waterproofing layer.
The bearing basis of such a coating is a layer of soil. Therefore, the main risk factors when arranging a floor on the ground in a private house are frost heaving and moisture. The first threat is blocked by insulating the base of the foundation from the outside with sheet foam. It cuts off the cold bridge that causes water to freeze.
It should be noted that at permanent residence in the house, the temperature of the soil under it never drops below zero degrees. If the building is empty in winter, then the forces of frost heaving can cause cracks in the concrete screed and deform it. In this case, insulation of the basement is indispensable.
Protection from soil moisture is a relatively simple measure only at a low level of groundwater (2-3 meters). on raw and swampy areas it is better to refuse the device of such coverage. The cost of waterproofing and strengthening the foundation in this case increases significantly.
For pile and columnar foundations slab on the ground - not The best decision. In this case, the cost of protecting the bedding from frost is higher than when using the foundation "tape".
Construction technology
There are two ways to install floors on the ground:
- Concrete preparation;
- Without a draft layer of concrete directly on the compacted base (cushion).
The first method is rarely used today. It was developed at a time when roofing material was used to protect the floor from moisture. For its gluing, a layer of concrete preparation was made (rough floor).
The second option is easier and cheaper. Modern waterproofing materials can be laid directly on the ballast without sticking to a solid base.
The process of constructing a concrete floor on the ground begins with the filling of the underlying layer. Before this, the laying of water supply and sewerage networks must be completed.
Any well-compacted soil can be used for backfilling. For this, small gravel (fraction 5-10 mm), coarse river sand or Sand and gravel. The pillow is poured in layers of 15 cm, spilling each with water and compacting with a manual or mechanical rammer.
Compaction of bedding with vibrotamper
To improve thermal insulation, the upper level of the pillow can be made of expanded clay gravel(10 cm). The total thickness of the ballast "pie" should be in the range from 30 to 40 cm.
Film waterproofing, laid under the insulation, needs to be protected from damage by sharp gravel and crushing with expanded clay. Therefore, the backfill is completed with a 5-centimeter layer of compacted sand. The thickness of the film laid on the ground must be at least 0.4 mm.
When laying the film insulation, its strips are spread with an overlap of 10-15 cm, fixing them with construction tape. The edges are laid on the masonry, to a height equal to the total thickness of the insulation, concrete screed and finish coat. A thermal gap 2-3 cm wide is left between the constructive "pie" of the floor, the walls, and partitions. It is filled with scraps of polyethylene foam or a special thermal tape.
To insulate the base, you can use EPS (extruded polystyrene foam), sawdust concrete or perlite concrete. Often, waterproofing under the foam is not laid, since it practically does not absorb moisture. From above it is covered with a polymer film. It protects the insulation from the destructive action of the alkaline environment of the cement mortar.
Under lightweight concrete on sawdust and perlite, a plastic film is needed. The thickness of the listed heat insulators is not the same. For EPPS, it is 50 mm. The layer of sawdust and perlite concrete must be at least 10 cm.
Having laid the thermal insulation, on its surface they make concrete screed on fine-grained filler (fraction 5-10 mm, thickness 10 cm). The work is carried out in two stages. First, a layer 5 cm thick is poured and laid on it steel mesh(cell 10x10 cm, wire diameter 3-4 mm). After that, the thickness of the screed is adjusted to the design level, determined by the calculation of the expected loads. Recommended concrete class B12.5.
That's how they get proper pie floors on the ground at a low level of soil water. Rough concrete preparation for hard insulation is not done. There is no real benefit from it, and the increase in the cost of 1m2 of the finished structure is very tangible.
Installation of a heating system (warm floor) changes the technology and sequence of work. In this case, first, a draft is poured over a compacted pillow. concrete preparation and lay out a layer of waterproofing. Having laid the insulation (EPS), pipes are fixed to it and a leveling screed is made of concrete. Reinforcing mesh is laid over pipes or heating cable.
In passing, we note that floors on the ground can be made not only in brick, block, but also in wooden houses. With a competent approach, ballast backfill does not negative impact on wood.
One of the options for the correct pairing of such a design with chopped walls is shown in the diagram below.
Pairing node with a wooden wall
With low GWL concrete slab, lying on clay or on a layer of compacted waterproofed bedding, is made in basements. This is a very common option in cottage construction.
Before the screed device, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room must be divided into strips 80-100 cm wide with a steel U-shaped profile or wooden lighthouse boards placed on edge. damper tape fasten to the walls before the start of pouring so that it protrudes 1.5-2 cm above the design mark of the finished surface.
Concrete pouring starts from the far end of the room and moves to the front door.
Laying is carried out in stripes, filling the cells slightly above their level. For leveling, use a vibrating screed or metal rule, moving it around the lighthouses.
After letting the mixture dry, beacons are removed from it, filling the formed seams with fresh concrete. After that, the concrete is covered with a film and given 4 weeks to gain strength, periodically moistening with water.
Design pros and cons
When planning to make a floor on the ground, you need to know what its advantages are over other types of bases:
- Acceptable cost;
- Readiness of the basis for laying of any floor coverings;
- There is no need to ventilate the underground space to avoid the appearance of fungus;
- Greater durability compared to wooden and reinforced concrete floors.
The disadvantages of this construct include:
- Loss of usable room height (up to 60 cm);
- The complexity of waterproofing works at high GWL;
- Poor compatibility with columnar and pile foundations;
- The high cost of repairing hidden communications.
There are two ways of laying floors in a private house: concreting on the ground or on beams and slabs. The technology of work is radically different, the choice of the desired method depends, first of all, on the level of groundwater and the dryness of the soil. The first option is cheaper, it is easy to do it yourself, pouring is suitable for all types of foundations, except for pile foundations. In this case, the concrete floor is reinforced screed over compacted soil, heat and waterproofing layers of building materials, each of which has different thickness and its functional purpose. Subject to the requirements of the technology, an even, strong and durable coating is obtained, which is fully suitable for decorative flooring. finishing of any type and withstanding significant operational loads.
To the floors in a private house, laid directly on the ground, certain requirements are put forward. For example, concreting is allowed when:
- The depth of groundwater is not less than 5 m.
- The presence of constant heating in a private house, since freezing of the soil leads to an increase in the load on the foundation.
- Dry and immovable ground.
- An established foundation.
Pouring a concrete floor is advisable when building a private house with a basement or ground floor. Work begins after the construction of walls and roofs and proceeds according to the following scheme:
1. Marking the level.
2. Leveling and compacting the soil.
3. Backfilling of sand, gravel and crushed stone.
4. Installation of hydro and thermal insulation.
5. Reinforcement.
6. Formwork laying and installation of guide beacons.
7. Filling the solution, leveling and final screed.
Floor marking and soil preparation
The fixer is the lowest point of future doorways, to create a straight line, marks are made on the wall at a height of 1 m. Further, a “zero” level is formed around the entire perimeter: 1 m is measured down, for convenience, nails are hammered in the corners and a cord is pulled. After that, all construction debris is removed and the leveling and compaction of the soil begins. The thickness required for a multi-layer structure is 30–35 cm. In some cases, it is necessary to remove excess soil, in others - to fill up (preferably sand). Compaction is best done not with your own hands, but with the help of a vibrating plate, if such equipment is not available, then an ordinary log is used. At the exit, there should be a flat and dense surface of the soil, without sagging underfoot.
The next step is backfilling and tamping clean river sand, to control the level of the floor, it is recommended to drive in special pegs. On top of 5 cm of the base layer of sandy waterproofing, gravel, expanded clay or crushed stone is placed and leveled, the backfill is washed with water to compact and level the stones. The thickness of this layer is about 10 cm, to enhance the hydrophobic properties, experts recommend filling it with liquid bitumen. Such a device of a concrete floor on the ground is carried out to protect against capillary penetration of moisture.
There are two options for the top layer: a rough concrete screed (6-8 cm) or filling with crushed stone of smaller fractions mixed with liquid cement mortar. All sharp stone edges are removed, each layer is checked for horizontal deviations.
Thermal insulation and reinforcement
The next stage is connected with the insulation of the concrete floor in a private house and strengthening it. bearing capacity. The following are often used as heat-insulating materials: polystyrene, mineral wool (stone basalt is best), expanded polystyrene, perlite, moisture-resistant plywood and cork. For additional protection from moisture, the bottom layer of roofing material or film is laid. Using waterproofing membrane the instructions are carefully studied to determine the desired side of installation. From above, the insulation is also protected by a thin film.
In order to enhance the bearing capacity of the concrete floor, the future screed is reinforced. This will require a metal (less often - plastic) mesh with a rod thickness of at least 3 mm. It is laid according to the usual chess pattern, the minimum step is 10 × 10 cm. The higher the expected loads, the thicker the reinforcement should be, the joints are connected by welding. Next, leveling beacons are placed and final concreting is carried out.
Pouring technology
The guides are laid according to a pre-marked pattern in increments of 2 m, usually a board, a thin beam or metallic profile. They are fixed with a thick concrete mortar, the upper level is brought to the "zero" mark. Between them, a formwork made of moisture-resistant plywood is installed, all elements that will be removed from the solution are treated with oil. It is desirable to carry out a final screed of a concrete floor in one go, the solidity and reliability of the structure depends on this.
To create a solution, cement with frost resistance from 400, clean sifted sand, fine crushed stone and water are used. The proportions are respectively: 1:2:4:0.5. Be sure to use a concrete mixer, this stage of work is difficult to carry out on your own, it is advisable to invite a partner. starting point pouring - the corner opposite to the door, several sections are poured at once, the mortar is leveled with a shovel from above. The recommended thickness of the concrete layer at this stage is 5 cm. A vibrating plate is used to compact and fill voids.
The flooded areas are equal to a long rule, the excess is removed, concrete mortar is added in the right places. After that, the guides and formwork are removed, the process is repeated until the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room is completely filled. Ready concrete surface cover with a film and leave for 3-4 weeks until the final hardening, in order to avoid the appearance of cracks, it is wetted with water, at least 1 time per day. Used as finishing fill self leveling compounds, they are applied and leveled in the same way: from the far corner to the door. The minimum period required for their drying is 3 days, more exact value indicated in the instructions.
A prerequisite for high-quality concreting is tamping and checking the horizontalness of each layer. The final concrete screed is carried out exclusively along the lighthouses. In the case of do-it-yourself installation of a warm floor in a private house, a thermal gap of about 1-2 cm (foamed polyurethane or polyethylene) is provided, it is needed to prevent cracking. The height of the level depends on the insulation of the basement, if it has been carried out, then "zero" can be placed both above and below the foundation. If not, then the concrete floor should not be made below the top, in order to avoid the appearance of freezing zones.
It is important not to neglect thermal insulation, heat loss in a private house through the bottom is at least 20%. To enhance hydroprotection, it is allowed to lay a thin layer of clay on the ground, it must be watered and rammed. When building a building on damp soils, expanded clay cannot be used because of its absorption properties (which increase with winter period). Also, this material is undesirable as the main insulation.
For achievement desired characteristics protection from the cold, a layer of expanded clay of at least 80 cm is required - it is much easier to lay foam boards 5 cm thick. A common mistake when working with concrete floors is the backfilling of the waterproofing layer from construction debris, large or sharp stones.
In order for you to personally pour the concrete floor in a private house or in the country, you do not need to be a professional builder or have special skills in this matter. The main thing is to properly prepare by purchasing the necessary consumables, as well as calculate them right amount. In this case, you will facilitate your task, and the filling processes will be as efficient and simple as possible. It must be remembered that a flat concrete floor is considered to be a floor with best base for floor covering ( ceramic tiles, parquet, linoleum and others).
How to fill the floors in a private house or in the country and what is needed for this?
We fill the floors in the house photo
You will need to prepare or purchase the following tools and materials: a vibro-rammer, a certain amount of roofing material, polyethylene film, expanded clay, foam boards, reinforced mesh, restrictive corners, level, shovels, trowels.
First, prepare the desired surface for your floor. Remove the top layers of soil to the required depth. Make the area as flat as possible. Then tamp it with a rammer with gravel or pieces of broken brick. If you have not been able to get such a tool, and the required surface is not large, then do this work manually.
Your next task will be an isolation device. best material for this job, is roofing material. If you want to do this job at the lowest cost and be sure that groundwater far from your floor, you can just put a few layers of polyethylene. Here everything will depend on your personal desire and material solvency.
After you have done the insulation, start laying thermal insulation material. It can be expanded clay or foam boards. This kind of material is already old, but as functions of this material, not many will argue with it. Also for this work, you can use ordinary glass wool. When insulating the floor, correctly calculate the amount consumable so that floor insulation does not cost you too much.
Having insulated the floor, proceed to the very pouring of concrete on the floor. Start pouring it in the far corner of the room, moving a little towards the doors. In this work, use a limit rail set in advance in the level. At this stage of work, it is very important that the last layer of the floor be reinforced with a metal frame. You can use an ordinary chain-link mesh as reinforcement. Last layer, thus, will become resistant to various possible impacts.
Your final step will be a neat screed with clean cement diluted with water. You can buy a self-levelling compound for this job.
How to fill the floors in a private house video
