Do-it-yourself board floor, or how to make wooden floors in a private house. Do-it-yourself wooden floor in a private house Arrangement of wooden floors

The wooden floor on the logs allows you to do without without the use of reinforced concrete floors or other concrete foundations, the cost of construction of which is quite high.

Efficient ventilation of wooden on logs in a private house - a necessary and indispensable condition for the reliability and durability of the structure.

Wooden floor on joists

The figure shows a variant of the construction of a wooden floor on logs in a private house with an underground space.

The space under the floor is formed due to the fact that the logs are laid on fairly high columns of brick or concrete blocks. This design allows you to raise the floor level of the first floor with a minimum amount of backfilling with soil in the basement space.

Here, the plinth and plinth space under the floor are outside, outside the heat-shielding shell of the house, and will be cold.

To ventilate the underground space in opposite outer walls, above ground level, air vents are made - through holes closed with a metal mesh to protect against rodents. The same holes should be in the internal load-bearing walls.

The movement of air under the floor is mainly due to wind pressure.

In winter, there is a danger of soil freezing in the underground space, which can lead to the movement of the floor relative to the walls on heaving soils.

To prevent freezing, it is recommended to close the vents for the winter, and insulate the base.
However, the deterioration of ventilation as a result of the closing of the vents leads to the accumulation of moisture in the insulation and wooden parts - to a decrease in thermal resistance and durability of these elements.

I must say that such an underground space device has been used in private construction since ancient times. The design was not originally designed for the use of effective thermal insulation of the floor.

In houses with poor thermal insulation of the floor in winter, part of the heat from the room penetrated into the underground space and heated it, preventing freezing, but increasing heat loss.

Modern thermal insulation of the floor practically blocks the flow of heat into the underground from the premises.It is possible to prevent the freezing of the subfloor only by saving the heat of the earth.

With modern requirements for energy saving, a cold underground ventilated through the air is not the best option. It is still used rather by inertia.

The scheme of effective ventilation of the subfloor in the basement of a private house through the exhaust duct

To ventilate the underground of a private house, a cottage, it is advantageous to use effective ventilation through an exhaust duct. Such a ventilation scheme is the only correct option for a house with an insulated basement or basement.

How to make a wooden floor on posts

In old books and building regulations, you can find floor designs on posts using NOT effective heat and waterproofing materials.

Modern floors on logs in a private house do this

Support posts are laid out of ceramic bricks or concrete blocks. The distance between adjacent posts along the log (span) is recommended to be no more than 2 m. The base of the column can be a layer of compacted crushed stone 50-100 mm, spilled with bituminous mastic. Or instead of mastic, a waterproofing film is used.

The top of the columns is leveled in one level with a solution. With a solution thickness of more than 3 cm. a masonry mesh is sunk into the solution. The top of the columns is covered with a sheet of waterproofing material.

Wooden beams-logs are laid on the waterproofing layer. The distance between adjacent beams-lags (step lag) is determined by their cross section, as well as the bearing capacity and rigidity of the overlying layers of the floor - lathing, subfloor, finish coating. Usually they take a step convenient for laying between the lags of standard mineral wool insulation boards, about 600 mm.

For the above lag step and span between the posts, taking into account the thickness of the insulation and the crate, with normal floor loads, the lag section is sufficient 100-150x50 mm. A galvanized steel mesh is attached to the bottom of the logs lying on the posts. Instead of a grid, you can nail boards into the run-up, slats with a thickness of at least 20 mm.

On top of the mesh (boards) and logs, a windproof, highly vapor-permeable film is laid.

This film prevents hinders the entrainment of insulation particles by air flow (formation of dust), but does not prevent the evaporation of moisture from the insulation and wooden parts.

A panel of a windproof vapor-permeable film is laid on top, across the log, and lowered on both sides of each log until it stops in the steel mesh so that a tray is formed between the logs. The film is nailed with a stapler to each side of all the logs.

In the formed channel between the lags, a mineral wool insulation is laid on the windproof film. You can do without a windproof film if you use special insulation boards with a compacted windproof layer for the bottom layer.

How to determine the thickness of the floor insulation

The thickness of the floor insulation is chosen according to the calculation, providing the normative resistance to heat transfer R = 4-5 m 2 about K / W. If the basement is not insulated, then the thickness of the thermal insulation of the floor is determined from the condition that the temperature of the space under the floor is equal to the temperature of the outside air. The recommended thickness of mineral wool insulation in this case is not less than 150-200 mm.

For a house with an insulated foundation and plinth, the thickness of the floor insulation can be reduced so that the sum of the heat transfer resistances of the plinth + floor is no less than the norm (see above).

How to calculate the thickness of the thermal insulation of the floor (ceiling)

A crate of bars with a thickness of at least 50 mm is laid across the log. Between the bars of the crate place another layer of insulation. Such a two-layer construction of insulation provides insulation with overlapping cold bridges through the logs. The distance between the bars of the crate is chosen within 300-600 mm., a multiple of the width of the subfloor slabs.

Such a two-layer construction of the floor base (logs + lathing bars) allows you to conveniently place both insulation boards and floor covering boards (DSP, plywood, etc.).

The insulation with the crate on top is covered with a vapor barrier film. The joints of the film panels are sealed. The junctions of the film to the walls are connected to the waterproofing of the wall and the same is sealed.

It is recommended to choose the thickness of the lathing bars by 25-30 mm. greater than the thickness of the top layer of insulation. This will allow, by lowering the film on both sides of each lathing bar, to create a ventilated gap between the vapor barrier film and the floor covering.

Vapor-thermal insulation with foam

Instead of the top layer of insulation and vapor barrier film, it is more profitable to lay penofol - a foamed polymer covered with aluminum foil, 10 mm. (produced under other trade names).

Penofol must be laid with the aluminized side up, towards the ventilated gap, across the bars of the crate and lowered on both sides of each bar. After that, penofol is nailed to each side of all the bars with a stapler so that a gap of 3-4 is formed between the aluminized surface and the floor tiles. cm.. The joints of the foam panels are sealed with aluminized adhesive tape. A layer of foam foam will provide heat transfer resistance equivalent to a layer of mineral wool with a thickness of 40 mm., and the necessary vapor permeability.

Subfloor boards are attached to the lathing bars over a vapor-tight film or penofol. Instead of boards, slabs are more often used: cement-bonded chipboard (thickness > 22 mm.), plywood (> 18 mm.), etc. Sheets, plates are placed with the long side on the bars of the crate. Spacers are fixed under the short side between the bars of the crate. All edges of the laid sheet must have a support under them - a bar or spacer.

The use of polystyrene foam as a heater, polystyrene foam boards is not recommended. Such boards serve as a barrier to moisture, which is always contained in the wood of the floor. By preventing the release of moisture from the wood, foam insulation reduces the life of the wooden parts of the floor. In addition, mineral wool insulation, due to better elasticity, adjoins the logs more tightly than polystyrene.

To protect the underground space from ground moisture, it is advisable to cover the entire surface of the soil with a waterproofing film (and not just under the posts, as in the figure). The joints of the coating panels are sealed. The adjunction of the film to the walls must be connected to the waterproofing of the wall and also sealed. The floor posts lie directly on the film.

As a result, we get a ventilated underground space, limited by sealed shells - from above (vapor barrier) and from below (waterproofing).

Such an underground space protects the house not only from moisture and cold, but also from penetration into living quarters.

Floor along the lags on the intermediate walls

In modern floor designs, beam-lags are located at a small distance from each other, which allows the use of lumber of a smaller section, and hence the cost, and it is also convenient to place insulation boards.

Instead of brick columns, it can be advantageous to lean the logs on intermediate walls laid out across the log with an interval of about 2 m. Bricks or blocks in the wall are laid in a honeycomb laying method half a brick thick, leaving increased gaps of 1/4 bricks in vertical joints to ventilate the underground space. If the wall has a height of more than 0.4 m., then at least every 2 m. the length of the wall, lay out pilasters - brick-thick columns, to increase the stability of the wall.

If the step lag is not more than 600 mm. and span less than 2 m., then the cross section of the wooden log is enough to have 100x50 mm.

Wooden floor on the ground on logs

Another version of the wooden floor along the logs in a private house is shown in the following figure:

Here, unlike the first option, the floor level is raised to the required height by backfilling the basement with compacted soil.

Floor ventilation is carried out due to the movement of air under the action of the draft of the ventilation duct.

Warm air is taken from the room and through the ventilation holes in the baseboards and the gap between the subfloor covering and the wall enters the space between the joists. Next, the air enters the ventilation duct.

To ensure ventilation of the underground space, skirting boards with holes are used or skirting boards are installed with a gap between them and the walls.

In order for the air to move more or less evenly under the entire surface of the floor, the gap for the passage of air is made of different widths - the farther from the ventilation duct, the wider the gap (2 cm.). Near the ventilation duct, holes in the baseboards and gaps between the wall and the floor covering are not made (or the gap is sealed with tape).

It is important to understand that in this ventilation option, unlike the first, the underground space is located inside the heat-shielding shell of the house, and must necessarily be warm. The outer shell of the subfloor must have a resistance to heat transfer no less than the wall of the house. Otherwise, the flow of warm air from the room may lead to condensation on the parts of the subfloor.

Make a layer of bulk soil thicker than 600 mm. Not recommended. Soil is poured and carefully rammed in layers no more than 200 thick. mm. It is still not possible to compact bulk soil to the state of natural soil. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of loose soil can lead to too much and uneven subsidence of the floor.

The waterproofing film is laid on a leveling layer of sand with a thickness of at least 30 mm. The joints of the film panels are sealed. The junctions of the film to the walls must be connected to the waterproofing of the wall and also sealed.

Thermal insulation is laid on waterproofing.

In this option, it is better to use polymer insulation boards - polystyrene foam (polystyrene foam). The thickness of the insulation is enough 50-100 mm., since the temperature of the soil under the house is always positive.

If the walls and basement of the house are not insulated, then along the outer walls to a width of at least 800 mm. a thicker layer of insulation should be laid, 150 - 200 mm.

At a house with multilayer outer walls with insulation outside, in order to exclude a cold bridge bypassing the wall and floor insulation, must be insulated outside(see the figure in the first part of the article).

The floor logs lie on low brick or concrete block linings.

If slabs of extruded polystyrene foam (XPS, penoplex, etc.) are used as thermal insulation, then the logs can be laid on linings cut from these slabs.

Between the thermal insulation and wooden floor joists, a gap of 3-5 cm. for free air movement.

According to building regulations, there is one restriction on the floor device. Since the space under the floor is ventilated through the exhaust duct of natural ventilation, it is forbidden to finish the floor covering from combustible materials: from boards, parquet boards and shields, etc. Or, a non-combustible base should be provided under them, for example, a prefabricated screed made of plasterboard, gypsum-fiber sheets or a draft floor made of cement particle boards.

In this option, the logs and other floor elements are in better humidity conditions than in the first case.

In this design, the ventilation duct serves to ventilate not only the underground, but also the premises of the house. About what needs to be done to save the heat emitted by the ventilation system,

Floors, soils and foundations

Floors on the ground are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If heaving, then the floor in winter and spring can "walk" under the influence of forces. To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this, and the underground part

The design of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Warming the soil under the house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in a house on a pile foundation can only be recommended for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.

When building a house on heaving soils, it is also necessary to have the underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

To ensure a comfortable temperature and favorable living conditions in the house, you need a reliable, even and warm coating - the floor. Considering how to lay the floor base, the owners of the buildings decide what kind of floor to lay in their own home. It is important to choose the right material, the strength and properties of which determine the level of thermal insulation and the reliability of the base. Let's figure out how to build floors with your own hands in a private house. Consider the technology, according to which the installation of a wooden base, concrete pouring of the floor, as well as the installation of plywood on a dry layer of sand.

Choosing a floor base and a method for constructing a good floor

Arranging the floor in a country cottage, in the country or in your own home is a serious and responsible task that many are trying to solve on their own. However, without studying the features of the technology, it is problematic to give a clear answer on how to make a floor in a private house. It is important to think over not only design issues, but also decide on the method of installing the floor base and the materials used.

A serious and responsible task is the arrangement of the floor in a country house

The most common in the private sector are the following, laid on their own, floor options:

• wood. The main advantages of wood flooring are environmental friendliness and increased thermal insulation characteristics. At the same time, wooden boards are characterized by increased hygroscopicity and require effective waterproofing protection. The wooden floor is laid on support beams located above the ground, on wooden beams resting on brick pedestals, as well as on planks laid on a concrete or cement screed. Building a wood floor is easy. The plank base is durable, maintainable and attracts attention with its original texture. Proper selection of material for a plank base determines performance. It is important to use dried wood, the moisture concentration of which does not exceed 12-14%. It is not allowed to use boards with defects in the form of cracks, falling knots and chips. The material used is coniferous trees, as well as hardwood. Impregnation of the boards with antiseptic compounds ensures the durability of the structure;

Environmental friendliness and increased thermal insulation characteristics are the main advantages of wood flooring

• concrete. It surpasses all types of floor bases in terms of strength characteristics and service life. When performing a concrete screed of increased height, the concrete mass is additionally reinforced with a reinforcing mesh. It prevents cracking of the monolith. However, the concrete base has a serious drawback - increased thermal conductivity. To ensure a comfortable temperature of the concrete floor and reduce heat loss, it is imperative to install insulation in the form of granulated expanded clay, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. A waterproofing material is placed on top of the insulating layer, and then the concrete mixture is poured. It is important to use a fresh concrete solution based on Portland cement grade M400 and higher. To improve the appearance and increase thermal insulation, a concrete base is combined with a wooden one;
• floor base in the form of a dry screed. This type of floor has gained popularity relatively recently and is a progressive solution in the construction industry. Dry screed is also called bulk floor or floating type floor structure. This kind of base attracts with ease of formation and accelerated pace of work. Dry screed is performed on a planned basis, which is waterproofed and then logs are laid. Fine-grained expanded clay, slag or sifted sand are poured into the space between the lags. Then you need to pull off the loose composition and evenly distribute over the entire area. At the final stage of the construction of a dry screed, sheet plywood is laid or installed. is durable and prevents heat loss.

When choosing installation methods and material for the future floor, you should study the design features of the floor base, as well as analyze its advantages and disadvantages.

All kinds of floor base is superior to concrete floor

We make floors in a private house using wood

Wooden floors are often preferred due to their attractive appearance and environmental friendliness of the material. To ensure the reliability of the wooden floor, you should not only decide on the wood, but also choose the design option. Wood floors are built using various methods. At the same time, logs made of wooden beams are an integral element of the design.

Lags are laid on the following foundations:

• beams fixed to the walls of the building;
• columnar supports made of bricks or blocks;
• concrete screed reinforced with reinforcement.

Depending on the wishes of the customer, builders build a single-layer version of a wooden floor or form a two-layer base of wood, laid on a rough floor of unedged board or concrete. Let us dwell in detail on the technological aspects of the construction of various types of wooden floors.

Due to their attractive appearance, they prefer wooden floors.

We lay the floors with our own hands in a private house on the ground on beams

Beginning developers are interested in how to make floors in a house from scratch using wood. They mean the situation when the walls of the building are already erected, the roof is installed, and the floor base is ordinary soil.

So, the construction of a wooden floor on a beam base located above the ground is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. The surface layer of soil 8-10 cm thick is removed.
2. The stones are removed and the horizontal surface is ensured.
3. A sand-gravel mixture is poured onto the surface of the soil with a layer of 10-15 cm.
4. The bedding is leveled, spilled with water and compacted.
5. A waterproofing layer of sheet roofing material or polyethylene is laid.
6. Logs are laid with an interval of 0.6-0.8 m between the wooden beams.
7. The joists are attached to the foundation walls with steel plates.

It is important to ensure the horizontal lag and correctly adjust them in level during installation. For this, wooden supports are used. A floor made of planed boards is mounted on the prepared base.

Wooden floors are fixed to the logs

The following types of installation of a plank base are possible:

• with additional floor insulation. The technology for arranging a wooden floor provides for the possibility of laying heat-insulating material in the space between the lags. Mineral wool, expanded clay granules or expanded polystyrene sheets are used as a heater. After insulation, finishing floor boards are attached to the lags;
• without wood insulation. With this method of installing the floor, no insulation is used. Boards are attached to the upper plane of the support bars, which act as a subfloor. Finishing boards are laid on the rough base with a second layer or the finishing coating is installed in the form of OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood.

When performing work, it is necessary to provide gaps of 20-25 mm between the foundation base and the lags to compensate for thermal expansion.

How to make a warm floor from wood on support pillars

Having decided to make a floor in a private house on their own, many prefer a wooden structure formed on support posts. The specified installation method is used if necessary to raise the floor surface, eliminate distortions of the floor base, as well as with an increased distance between the walls. Indeed, in the absence of additional supports, there is a high probability of a violation of the integrity of the lag under the influence of loads.

If necessary, raise the floor surface, use support racks

When constructing a wooden floor on additional concrete supports, follow the following procedure:

1. Remove the fertile layer of soil and plan the surface.
2. Determine the coordinates of the location of the support pillars.
3. Remove the soil according to the markup and prepare pits for the support pipes.
4. Fill the bottom of the pits with a mixture of sand and gravel.
5. Align the bedding and carefully tamp it down.
6. Assemble the formwork of the required height along the perimeter of the pits.
7. Lay roofing material inside the formwork for waterproofing.
8. Assemble the reinforcement grid and place it in the formwork.
9. Pour concrete mortar and tamp it down.

The curing process of concrete lasts 4 weeks. After the concrete has gained operational strength, disassemble the formwork and lay out brick or block supports of the required height on the concrete surface. On the surface of the formed pedestals, lay a roofing material designed to protect wooden beams from ground moisture.

Floor on pillars

When performing work, the following dimensions must be maintained:

• the interval between the supports, equal to 1-1.2 m;
• the distance from the foundation to the extreme pedestals, which is 0.4 m;
• the location of the base of the pits from the zero mark at the level of 0.4-0.5 m;
• thickness of crushed stone and sand cushion - 0.1-0.15 m;
• section of columnar supports, which is 0.4 * 0.4 m or 0.5 * 0.5 m.

It is important to control the location of the upper plane of the supports at the same level. This will prevent distortion and form a flat floor. Remember that the technology allows the lag to be made composite with the connection of the beams on the central support with an overlap of 0.15-0.2 m.

Tips for laying floorboards or plywood on a concrete base

Often, a concrete or cement screed is used as a floor base. On a wooden floor, formed on a base of concrete or cement, massive interior items can be installed. A plank, plywood or tile floor, built on logs attached to concrete, reliably insulates the floor of the room and has an increased load capacity.

A concrete or cement screed is often used as a floor base.

Observe the following procedure for the construction of a wooden floor based on a screed:

1. Level the concrete base and seal the cracks.
2. Top up with self-levelling compound if necessary.
3. After the mixture has hardened, lay the waterproofing material.
4. Mark the surface of the base for laying the log.
5. Make holes in the concrete, fasten the studs to fix the planks.
6. Drill holes in the beams corresponding to the coordinates of the studs.
7. Install the planks on the studs and check the levelness.
8. Remove the parts of the studs that protrude beyond the top plane of the bars.
9. Fill the space between the joists with a sheet or granular heat insulator.
10. Mount to the logs a finishing coating of boards or plywood.

Do not forget to provide gaps to compensate for temperature deformations between the end plane of the log and the walls of the room.

How to make the right floors in a private house - we form a concrete surface

It is advisable to equip for buildings whose walls are built of concrete blocks or bricks.

According to pre-installed beacons, floors are poured in a private house

Consider how to make a floor in a private house by pouring a rough screed:

1. Remove the sod layer from the soil, plan the surface and tamp the soil.
2. Pour a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick on the surface and compact it.
3. Lay a plastic film on the compacted rubble for waterproofing.
4. Lay a sheet heat insulator or pour expanded clay granules.
5. Assemble the reinforcement grid and lay it on the insulation.
6. Pour the screed and carefully level the surface.

Remember that the pouring of floors in a private house is carried out according to pre-installed beacons, which make it easier to level the screed using the rule.

Dry floor screed under plywood sheets

The technology for forming floors in rooms using the dry screed method is quite simple. The essence of the method lies in the use of loose material as a floor base, evenly distributed over the area of ​​​​the room.

Various types of bulk materials are used:

• small granules of expanded clay;
• sand-concrete mixture on a quartz or silica base.

A fairly simple technology for forming floors using a dry screed method

A distinctive feature of the materials is the absence of shrinkage after leveling. Such a floor serves for a long time and retains heat well in the room.

The procedure for constructing a floor using a dry screed method:

1. Lay a layer of waterproofing on the prepared surface.
2. Fasten the strips that act as guides.
3. Fill the space between the beacons with a dry mixture and level it.
4. Tamp the loose material of the floor base.
5. Attach the plywood boards to the rails with self-tapping screws.
6. Seal the joints between plywood sheets.
7. Lay the topcoat on the prepared base.

When performing work, check the horizontal laying of the plates with a level and move from the front door deep into the room.

Summing up

Regardless of the chosen option for arranging the floor, work should be carried out in strict accordance with the requirements of the technological process and high-quality materials should be used. It is important to properly waterproof the floor, as well as insulate it. Deciding on the design of the floor, give preference to environmentally friendly, warm and durable materials. A properly installed floor will last a long time and will not cause trouble during operation.

A very important step in home improvement is the selection of a suitable floor covering and its correct installation. One of the most preferred options is wood flooring. Wood is an environmentally friendly, breathable material with excellent performance and properties. With the proper knowledge, you can cope with the installation of such a coating with your own hands.

Choose the right wood for your decking. At this stage, you need to take into account the climatic conditions of the region, the level of planned surface loads, the features of the operation of the premises and, of course, your financial capabilities.

In small residential areas, softwood flooring is best. Such material is sold at a relatively affordable cost, differing, at the same time, in a sufficiently high strength and durability.

Of the representatives of the middle and higher price range, give preference to oak. Aspen wood is also used for arranging the floor. This material is especially well suited for flooring in children's rooms, as well as in bedrooms.

For independent flooring in residential premises, only dry wood can be used. The problem with wet boards is that they shrink in size as they dry, causing ugly and completely unnecessary cracks to appear in the coating.

When buying a material, make sure that it does not have any noticeable defects such as splits, third-party stains, cracks, etc. Do not buy such wood even with a good discount.

Pre-calculate to determine the required amount of material. To do this, you just need to know the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe premises. Buy the material itself with a 10-15 percent margin.

For flooring, it is recommended to use a board with a length of 200 cm or more. It is highly desirable that all the boards offered to you be included in one batch. So you can be sure that all the purchased material was manufactured and processed under equal conditions. Consequently, the texture, color and other external characteristics of the boards will be approximately the same.

Flooring is best done using edged and tongue-and-groove boards. Such material does not require additional grinding, which will allow you to significantly save time on installation work.

Wood flooring can be made using several different materials, namely:

• solid boards;
• solid parquet board;
• glued parquet board. It has the same appearance and is practically not inferior in terms of performance to a parquet board made of solid wood, but it costs less;
• parquet.

Preparing for flooring

The flooring is done in two layers. First, the foundation is laid, then the wood itself.

There are two main ways to install the flooring: laying on the ground on logs and on floor beams. When choosing the appropriate method, consider the characteristics of a particular room and your personal preferences.

Before installation, carefully treat all wooden elements with antifungal and fire-retardant impregnations.

The base of the erected floor must be waterproofed. For moisture insulation it is convenient to use penofol or polyethylene. Penofol simultaneously provides high-quality hydro and noise insulation properties, therefore it is more preferable.

Base mounting

The functions of the base for independent flooring can be performed by logs, plywood and concrete. Familiarize yourself with the features of the methods and choose the most suitable for your case.

Foundation on logs

Fastening the flooring to the logs is the most popular option for arranging the floor. This design allows you to easily and effectively hide floor irregularities and lay various communications under the base without any problems.

The base is assembled from a 10x5 cm timber. In low rooms, it is better to refuse this method - the finished structure will take about 8-10 cm in height.

Before starting to mount the base, you should bring the logs into the room and let them lie down for a couple of days so that the wood material adapts to its surrounding conditions.

Select the step for fixing the lag in accordance with the dimensions of the boards used. It is important that in the future the boards do not sag.

First step. Lay one log at the same level at opposite walls.

Second step. Pull dense parallel threads between the laid lags. The distance between the threads depends on the thickness of the floorboards. If your boards are more than 3 cm thick, stretch the threads at a distance of about 80 cm, but if the flooring elements are thinner than 3 cm, then the threads should be pulled at a distance of no more than 60 cm. If you use boards with a thickness of more than 4 cm, you can increase the distance between the threads up to 100 cm.

Third step. Set the lags, focusing on the stretched threads. Adjust the mounting height with wooden wedges. It is important that all lags are set strictly at the same level.

Logs must be fastened to the base. If the base in your house is made of wood, fix it with self-tapping screws or nails, if it is made of concrete, use dowels or anchors.

Fourth step. Fill the space between adjacent joists with thermal insulation material. You can lay foam, mineral wool, expanded clay, etc.

In the process of laying the boards will need to be attached to each installed log. Preliminary in the material you need to prepare holes for self-tapping screws. An electric drill with a drill of the appropriate diameter will help you with this.

An excellent base for future quality flooring can be made from plywood. High-quality plywood is almost not subject to deformation during the use of the floor. The material is characterized by high strength and reliability.

If necessary, the floor on the plywood sheets in question can be quickly and easily removed. When laying the base, you do not have to carry out any additional work - the flooring is mounted directly on the plywood sheets.

First step. Place the plywood sheets on the base and, using ordinary chalk, draw a diagram of the future laying of the elements. Focusing on this markup, you will install the logs, and already lay sheets of plywood on them.

Second step. Install lags. The optimal pitch is 400 mm. Align the logs with linings from the same plywood. All elements must be installed strictly at the same level. Attach the aligned logs to the base. Choose fasteners according to the base material.

Third step. Glue the finished structure with glue so that the floor does not crack in the future.

Fourth step. Cover the system with rolled glassine or other material with similar properties.

Fifth step. Lay the plywood. The edges of each sheet should lie on the logs. Place the plywood sheets themselves with a small gap, no more than 1-2 mm. To fasten sheets, use self-tapping screws - about 8-9 fasteners per sheet. Sand the joints carefully.

If desired, you can level the concrete base with a screed and lay the flooring directly on the floor, without installing an additional base.

In such a situation, it is important that the boards cannot come into direct contact with the concrete. Soil mastic or ordinary polyethylene foam will perfectly cope with the functions of the intermediate layer. When using polyethylene, place insulation sheets with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

First step. Start fastening boards from any wall. Leave a 15mm gap between the wall of the room and the boards of the starting row. After completing the installation of the flooring, you will close it with a plinth. Drive in screws or nails at a slight angle, trying to deepen the heads of the fasteners into the wood by about 2 mm.

1 - lag; 2 - bracket; 3 - wedges; 4 - doboynik

Second step. After installing the first floorboard, step back about 50 mm from the edge and drive brackets into the bars with an insignificant gap, and then insert a thin rail into the gap that appears after that.

Third step. Drive a wooden wedge slightly larger than the gap left between the installed rail and the fixed brackets. Thanks to the wedge, the edges of the boards to be laid will be pressed as tightly as possible, which will prevent the appearance of cracks. Staples can be removed after fixing the boards with screws or nails.

a - building bracket; b - wedge clamp with a movable bracket; in - rack compression
1 - bracket; 2 - wedges; 3 - lag; 4 - spur; 5 - emphasis; 6 - movable bracket; 7 - clamping screw; 8 - stops; 9 - gear wheel with a ratchet - dog; 10 - handle; 11 - screw with stop

That is, you need to work according to this scheme: they laid a couple of boards, pressed them with a rail and a wedge, and fixed them with self-tapping screws. Lay the entire flooring according to this scheme. Before attaching each next board, it must be additionally compacted with a mallet.

Fourth step. Sand the joints of the boards.

Fifth step. Hide the gaps between the walls and boards with a floor plinth.

Sixth step. Lay the top coat, such as parquet board or any other material of your choice. You can do without finishing flooring, but simply paint the boards, cover them with varnish or other composition.

Wood is a high-quality and durable material with excellent performance and properties. However, in order for the flooring to fully show its properties, you, as a performer, are required to follow the instructions exactly and follow the recommendations received at each stage of work. Follow this simple guide and you'll be fine.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself wooden flooring

The floor in the house is an important element that provides high-quality thermal and waterproofing of the interior. Structures of this type may differ in reliability and structure, since several types of materials are used in their arrangement. Before proceeding with the construction of these surfaces, you should find out what the floors in a private house should be like. This will allow you to choose the best option, which allows you to get a durable and durable surface.

Device Features

Country houses are compact and practical. At the same time, all technical requirements for finishing and internal arrangement of the building are fundamentally different from those of apartment buildings.

Floors in a private house must meet several basic criteria:

• Strength. The base should easily transfer loads, while not losing its original properties. This also applies to the top decorative layer, which should not wear out, while maintaining the design.
• Thermal insulation. The structure and thickness of the floor "pie" is selected in such a way that the base does not let the cold through, and also retains heat inside the room.
• Soundproofing. This feature is important for houses with a large number of inhabitants. High-quality sound insulation will create comfortable living conditions inside the building.
• Moisture resistance. Almost all residential buildings have a bath, where the humidity level is very high. At the same time, the floor material must not only withstand such conditions, but also maintain a presentable appearance in them.

Kinds

A private house differs from apartment buildings in that here you can adapt the subfloor to your needs. Today in these places there are several types of flooring:

• Wooden systems on logs on the ground. These coatings are especially popular with many owners of small residential houses. The main structural element of such a system is the logs, which are located directly on the ground. With this approach, you can significantly speed up the process of building floors. But it should be noted that the wood itself does not come into contact with the soil, since a substrate of sand and gravel is placed under it. For waterproofing, this layer is covered with roofing material, on which logs are placed. Such a kind of “pie” gives good indicators of thermal insulation and durability, but does not always allow achieving optimal heat retention.

• Wooden floor on supports. Wooden logs are also used here, on which a finishing board is nailed on top. But they are no longer installed on the ground itself, but on special posts that act as supports. They are made of brick, concrete and other durable materials. They are placed around the entire perimeter of the room so that wood can be attached to them. A waterproofing pad is placed between the tree and the lag, excluding the rapid decay of the wood.

• Monolithic. Floors of this type are varieties of cement screeds located on the supporting surface. Some of them can already be mounted on a concrete slab, which is used as a foundation. But this type is quite rare and only on resistant soils. Monolithic structures are cold, so they need additional insulation.

• Surfaces based on dry screed. This type of flooring has appeared recently and is beginning to gain popularity. The structure of this base consists of a well-packed substrate, which acts both as a heater and a waterproofing layer, and an upper decorative layer. The advantage of such floor coverings is that their construction does not require much time.

The floors in a private house differ in structure and materials used.

But in all these designs, several main components can be distinguished:

• Litter. The lowest layer, the purpose of which is the perception and uniform distribution of the load.
• Middle draft layer. This element is not always present in floor coverings. But quality bases always apply a structure with this component. The main task is the perception of negative factors in order to reduce their impact on the upper decorative bases.
• Insulation. These elements are found in almost all types of floors. It uses both hydro- and thermal insulation, which can extend the life of the product, as well as provide comfortable conditions inside the house.
• decorative layer. Various substances are used here, which differ in design and structure. With their help, not only decorate the floor, but also additionally warm it.

materials

The arrangement of floors in a private house involves the use of substances that perfectly support the microclimate inside the house.

For the construction of such structures, several groups of materials are used:

• Lumber. This group of substances is used during the construction of lag-based floors. The most popular products are wooden blocks, boards of various thicknesses, sawdust (heat insulator). This group includes plywood, OSB and other boards based on wood products.
• insulating materials. This group is also very wide and includes substances for arranging hydro, steam and thermal insulation. Products of this type include rolled materials (film, roofing material, all types of mineral wool), as well as bulk structures (expanded clay, sand, crushed stone, etc.). Many of these substances do not form a separate layer. They are meant to cover and isolate other elements of the system.
• Decorative trim. Such coatings also come in several types. The most common are solid board, ceramic tiles, laminate, parquet, etc.

All of them allow you to create universal floor coverings with various technical and decorative properties. Some of them can only be used under certain conditions.

For the organization of underfloor heating, concrete floors are suitable, which tolerate changes in temperature and humidity well.

How to do it yourself?

Flooring in a private house is not such a difficult task. It is only important to choose the right type of flooring that suits your requirements. It is much easier to do this during the construction phase of the building. During this period, the floor is mounted from scratch, which eliminates the dismantling and replacement of the old coating. If repairs are being made, then the algorithm for arranging the floor base may vary depending on the structure of the material used before.

Each type of flooring has its own original technical characteristics. Therefore, when building a private house, many are wondering which floor is better to form inside it.

To choose the best option, you should consider the advantages and disadvantages of each system:

• Single wooden floors. Designs of this type are budgetary and are used quite often. In the structure of the floor, only beams are used, on top of which a finishing board or other material is immediately attached. To protect the wood, it is necessary to use several layers of heat and moisture insulation during the arrangement. If you do not follow the technology, the base will quickly dry out and form cracks. This, in turn, will lead to drafts and a large loss of heat. To correct all the shortcomings, it will be necessary to completely redo the entire structure.

• Double floors. This structure allows you to increase the service life and strength of the base. Double coatings retain heat much better, although insulation is also used here. But the construction of this floor will be much more expensive than the previous one.
• monolithic foundations. Concrete floors are highly durable, which is their main advantage. They are able to withstand almost any load, and are also suitable for finishing with all decorative materials. Lag-based floors can also be built on a cement base, which will be durable and warm. The disadvantage of monolithic floors is their heavy weight, which does not always allow them to be built on the second floor if the walls are not designed for such loads.

The arrangement of any type of floor involves the selection of materials and tools that will allow you to get a reliable and durable design.

To solve such problems, you will need the following materials:

• Bedding. This includes classic gravel and sand. They are used for leveling the ground. Not used when installing floors on the second floor.
• Material for forming a rough base. There are also several options here. If you have chosen a wooden floor, then you should purchase high-quality wooden bars that will withstand the load. You will also need special fasteners to fix the wood. In some cases, you will need a small bar with a section of 5 * 5 cm, which is nailed to the bottom of the log. A rough base is then attached to them. A similar approach is found in the construction of the floor on the second floor.
• Thermal insulation materials. Often, mineral wool or expanded clay is used here, which are covered with special films. This is necessary so that moisture does not get into the structure of the heat insulator, which can quickly destroy it. Please note that the installation sequence must be followed. If you change some of the layers, this will lead to the accumulation of moisture inside its structure.

Installation of flooring in the country can be performed in various ways. It all depends on the chosen type of foundation.

The algorithm for arranging a wooden floor on the ground floor consists of the following sequential steps:

• Ground leveling. In this case, the surface is covered with sand and compacted. Crushed stone is placed on top of it, which is also rammed and compacted. If the logs are located on concrete columns, then the soil is only leveled with sand. Supports are constructed in this case around the entire perimeter at a distance of 2-3 m, depending on the thickness of the board.
• Log laying. The bars rest either on poles or on a crushed stone cushion. Between them, a roofing material or other waterproofing agent must be placed. Some experts recommend covering the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room with a film.
• Arrangement of thermal insulation. A waterproofing film is placed between the lags, on top of which mineral wool slabs are placed. Then all this is closed with a vapor barrier.

The formation of a wooden floor on the second floor is carried out according to almost the same algorithm, only in order to be able to lay mineral wool slabs, wooden blocks must be nailed to the bottom of the log.

After that, boards are laid on them, acting as a kind of base. Then, the formation of a heat-insulating layer from a certain substance is also performed.

Particular attention should be paid to concrete floors, which are formed mainly on the ground floor. If you want to form a concrete floor on the second tier, then you need to use materials that can withstand such a load to build walls.

The algorithm for installing a concrete floor is quite simple and consists of the following steps:

• Leveling and preparation of the base. Here the soil is also rammed and covered with a sand and gravel cushion.
• Strengthening. So that concrete does not crack and withstand loads, it is reinforced. For this, reinforcement is used, which is connected in the form of a grid. If the floor is supposed to have an opening into the cellar, it is important to reinforce it as well to get a solid structure.
• Fill. When the base is ready, a thick layer of concrete mixture is poured onto it. Its thickness can be from 5 to 20 cm, depending on the structure of the soil. To obtain a flat surface, the concrete is carefully compacted with special machines.

fine finish

The design of any floor involves a decorative finish.

This can be done using several types of materials:

• Board installation. This is the main option for arranging wooden floors. Before laying it, the wood should be treated with special compounds. They will protect it from premature decay and damage by microorganisms. When installing the board, it is important to carefully adjust its dimensions in order to get joints without gaps.
• Laying laminate or parquet. Their installation is carried out only on perfectly flat bases. If the floor is formed from logs, then you need to level it with plywood, boards or other similar materials. After that, the substrate is laid, on which the lamellas are joined together. When old floors are used for installation, it is important to check their condition. If necessary, it is desirable to cover the damaged areas so that the parquet does not sag over time.
• Tiling. This option is suitable for bathrooms where there is high humidity. Installation is carried out on cement mortars that adhere well to the tiles. The material is only suitable for concrete bases.
• Use of roll products. This includes linoleum and all similar materials. They allow you to get a beautiful surface, but at the same time require a solid substrate. You can use them for any reason.

The arrangement of a wooden floor is recognized as the most time-consuming, expensive and complex, since any structure made of wood should be protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise, the floors will become unusable in a short time, and they will need to be replaced. Using some impregnation, you can protect the tree from decay. Chemical protection methods are very effective and prevent the process of material deterioration. However, a wooden structure impregnated with chemicals cannot be considered environmentally friendly. Considering that it is because of this indicator that a tree is chosen, few people use chemistry. When laying on concrete, waterproofing is required over the entire area between the layers. Fasten the wooden flooring using metal squares to create a gap between the bases and the joists.

The subfloor denotes certain bases, which by themselves form an ideal surface for laying the final floor. It is created to ensure the distribution of loads directed to the floor covering.

In wooden structures, draft floors are made by three methods:

• wooden on logs;
• pouring concrete;
• use of plywood flooring.

Wooden floors on logs

In a wooden house, the subfloor device does not differ from the installation of similar structures in a monolithic or brick structure. The only feature is how the lags are attached:

1. There is no need to fasten the logs to various wooden boards. The best option is to strengthen them to the basement or grillage of the foundation, retreating a couple of centimeters from all the walls. The distance from the support must be at least 11 cm on all sides of the lag.
2. Before laying the base, lay the strapping from below, which is made of a long and thin board. Logs are attached to it using metal anchors. They do not need to be rigidly strengthened with strapping. It should only be fixed so that they do not stagger while working on another layer of the floor. This design will have a few centimeters indent from the walls.

If the distance is less than 11 cm, then it is better to crash into the walls. But before that, it is necessary to make the initial laying on the base, then you should attach a choice of timber or logs. It is necessary to first measure the contour of the cutting site, then cut in the tree the dimensions necessary for the groove, which will be required for the support function.

Important: it is recommended to add about 2cm to further widen the lag. It must be remembered that the laying of the log and beams is done on the grillage or plinth when the laying of the waterproofing layer is completed.

The standard steps between two lags are 40-60 cm. However, when choosing, great emphasis is placed on the width of the insulation and the required load. Based on this, the choice of the lag section and the acting load is made. With small sizes, the sections should be approximately 15x10, with heavy loads - 15x20, with medium ones - 15x15 centimeters. In case of excessive load action, if the beams have a small section, it is desirable to provide section parameters of 30x40 cm.

Installation of subfloors on logs

When the installation is done, you will need to do the standard installation. It is carried out in several stages:

1. It is necessary to fix the cranial bars. They have small sections (approximately 4 by 4), they are fixed in the lower parts of the log from the side. Professionals recommend replacing the cranial bar with boards that will have more lags in width. They will need to be nailed either along or below the lags.
2. Boards should be laid. They need to be laid on the cranial bar, but not fastened. Considering that their main task is to fix the insulation, they are left to lie freely.
3. Waterproofing. Lay it on the subfloor. This is done to avoid additional load. The waterproofing is laid so that it goes onto the wall at the level where the floor will be in the future. It is recommended to use film insulation, and use a stapler for fastening.
4. Thermal insulation - laid on waterproofing.
5. Vapor barrier. Lay in the same way as waterproofing.
6. Ventilation. To create a ventilation gap, it will only be necessary to break through the counter rails along the lag on top of the vapor barrier.
7. Coating. At the final stage, it is proposed to use chipboard sheets, as well as boards. From the wall, the logs must be separated by a gap of 2 cm. They will then be placed heaters.

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer house design services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Video description

Read more about floor insulation in a wooden house - in this video:

Rough plywood floors

The floor in a wooden house is one of the most reliable options, because it has a high hardness. Plywood is also used for flooring. If it is well sanded and varnished, it looks expensive. But in most cases, it is then covered with linoleum or parquet flooring.

Plywood can be laid in one of two options:

1. On a cement base. It will be necessary to provide a horizontal and even base or use leveling stands.
2. Attach to the legs. The main thing is to correctly set the lags to ensure that the joint of the sheet hits them. The joists must be set in such a way that the top surface provides a straight line. They then remove the insulation and sound insulation.

Need to know! When laying plywood in 1 layer, it is necessary that it be at least 15mm thick, if there are 2 layers, the minimum thickness should be at least 9mm.

All debris and dust must be removed from the base prior to final laying. If possible, priming should also be done - primer treatment. Plywood must be fixed with glue, and the head of the self-tapping screw must be drowned.

Concrete floor

Like the draft and finishing floor in a wooden house, the concrete version is less common than the others. The concrete floor has one significant drawback - it is very cold. This problem can be solved with the help of thermal insulation material.

The advantages include durability and reliability. Compared to analogues, it is more even and durable. The concrete floor in a wooden house is also chosen because it is better preserved from destruction.

In a wooden house, a concrete floor is made in 11 stages:

1. Lay on the lags.
2. Lay on the ground.
3. A concrete screed is made on top of the wooden floor.
4. The floor horizon is set with marks (it is recommended to pull the cord for accuracy).
5. Stakes less than 11 cm should be hammered into the ground, so that later gravel can be poured over them. After that, it should be tamped and the pegs removed.
6. Next, the sand is poured.
7. Then a large polyethylene film is laid, creating an overlap on the walls. It will act as waterproofing.
8. Using slats, it is necessary to divide the room into equal strips. The width of each should be about 1 meter. The height of the installed rail must be equated with the height of the cord. The concrete is then poured onto the prepared surface.
9. Concrete is leveled along the rails.
10. Next, the concrete should be covered with a film and left to harden for several weeks. To avoid cracking, it is sometimes necessary to spray the mass with water.
11. After the expiration of the term, it is covered with a screed of cement and sand.

Materials for processing lags

Some environmental factors, such as dampness, should not affect the lags. Therefore, when providing a floor device in a wooden house, it is necessary to protect them from certain factors.

Bioprotective compounds

The drug with a bioprotective composition protects the tree from mold, decay, blue discoloration, beetles and fungi. One application of such funds will provide protection for 27-32 years. You can buy them in the form of a concentrate. Sometimes a pigmenting substance is added to the composition, which makes it possible to control the quality of application.

Bioprotective compounds are praised for:

• environmental friendliness;
• slight odor;
• absence of allergens.

It is necessary to apply preparations before the installation of the floor in a wooden house has begun.

Indelible antiseptic

A great option if the city has high humidity. It is also indicated for use in places with high levels of precipitation, temperature fluctuations, in baths and saunas. Working with antiseptics is simple and not too time consuming. Approximate consumption per 1 meter is about 400 grams. Surface application can be achieved after 4 coats. After completion of work, the color of the tree will become pistachio.

Folk methods

Folk remedies for processing lags:

1. Transformer oil. Due to deep penetration into the structure of the tree and embalming, this agent perfectly protects the material.
2. Resin. From bugs, fungi and decay, birch resin will perfectly help. Its only disadvantage is the vulnerability to fire.
3. Motor oil. Pros - low price, good protection. Cons - too strong smell, sometimes interfering for several months.

Before starting work, you should understand the layout of wooden floors, which consist of 4 "layers":

1. Draft coating.
2. Heat and waterproofing layers.
3. Clean floor.
4. Finishing.

Therefore, when wondering what to make a finishing floor in a wooden house, you must first complete the first 2 stages, which were mentioned above, and start working on the finishing floor.

To make a finishing floor yourself, you need to buy milled boards.

Need to know! The finished floor in a wooden house is laid 5 centimeters above the subfloor.

The floor structure of the first floor in a wooden house is being built in 3 stages:

1. Logs are laid - so that the boards can be laid perpendicular to them. The smallest thickness is 25mm.
2. The board must be fixed closer to the wall.
3. Next, you should use a hammer and a bar so that the boards are as close to each other as possible. With the help of a self-tapping screw, fasteners of each log are carried out through the comb.

Important! If there are plans to change the floor in the future, it is necessary to use a simple mounting option - all floorboards should be fixed from above to the logs using self-tapping screws.

Conclusion

In a house with external multi-layer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the basement and the bearing part of the wall, bypassing the wall and floor insulation.