Proper wooden floor cake over the joists. Floor construction on wooden logs: how to make it warm and durable? Technology for creating an insulated cake on beams

Today we will consider one of the most popular schemes for installing an insulated floor in wooden house. The review will raise key questions about the preparation and installation of the substructure of the floor, the insulation pie and its protection, as well as the correct laying of natural board covering.

Floor support system requirements

High-quality insulation wooden floor requires that the configuration of its subsystem (log, supports, jumpers) correspond to the available dimensions and form factor of the insulation. The most suitable for insulating a wooden floor are polystyrene foam and mineral wool, less commonly used bulk granular fillers like ecowool or perlite chips. The design of the floor bearing system should allow to securely fix the insulation, ensure its immobility and at the same time maintain its strength and functionality.

The key to building a reliable and durable insulated floor is to secure the joists well and provide a solid support for them. If the floor is arranged on the ground, it is necessary to place a number of supporting pedestals made of bricks or cast reinforced concrete. To simplify installation, the edges of the lag are supported by ledges in the strip foundation. They can be made with a perforator and angle grinder, and then repaired cement mortar, or provide at the stage of formwork assembly. Between the end of the beam and the entire foundation, there should be a compensation gap of the order of 1/4% of the length of the log.

1 — strip foundation; 2 - support pillars; 3 - waterproofing; 4 - floor logs; 5 - waterproofing lag

It is also necessary to make sure that the moisture contained in the stone elements of the structure - the foundation and supporting bollards - will not migrate into the wood. To do this, use linings of 2-3 layers of rolled waterproofing. You should focus on wood processing before starting installation work. All lumber must be thoroughly impregnated with antiseptics and, if necessary, flame retardants, and then dried in a pile.

Logs and counter-lattice

When installing a log, they are placed in increments corresponding to the format of the insulation used. To avoid frequent installation support pillars, you can use the system of cross logs. In this case, the lower bars have a cross section with equal parties and perform the main carrier function. The top row has frame device: boards placed on edge form longitudinal cells, convenient for laying insulation of a certain width and fastening flooring boards.

If the house is located on slab foundation, then the floor carrier system has the simplest device. Logs are formed by one frame row, which is anchored to a concrete base. The plane of the monolithic base forms the bottom for the cells under the insulation, ensuring its reliable fixation.

When constructing a floor on the ground, there is no such reference plane. One of the options for arranging it is to fill it with a light porous material, such as expanded perlite or expanded clay, to the lower level of the lags.

Otherwise, the logs that form the cells for the insulation are provided with longitudinal stops. A bar of approximately 25x25 mm is screwed with self-tapping screws at the bottom of each log, forming parallel ledges. A mesh of shingles or thin mesh is laid on them. edged board, due to which the support of the insulation is provided.

1 - cranial bar; 2 - floor lag; 3 - grid; 4 - vapor barrier; 5 - insulation; 6 - floor board

It is important to know that since the stuffed bars “eat up” the space of the floor cells a little, the remaining height may not be enough to accommodate the insulation of such a thickness as provided thermotechnical calculation. In this case, bars of the same size are stuffed over the ribs of the frame system. They can be located parallel or across the upper row of logs, in the latter case, an additional gap is provided for ventilation of the insulation.

Insulation bookmark

The width of the cells for laying mineral wool mats should be 1-2% smaller sizes insulation. Due to the tight fit, excessive ventilation of the floor is eliminated and possible shrinkage of wool over time is compensated. When laying the mats, they must be carefully and evenly compressed across the plane, put into the cavity and then straightened inside. It is desirable that after laying the cotton wool forms a small hump protruding upward, which will be pressed against the boards. If foil wool is used, it is located with the reflective surface up.

In the case of expanded polystyrene, which is practically not compressible, minor gaps may form. They are eliminated by blowing out summer mounting foam at the end of filling in all the cells. Too thick gaps in order to reduce foam consumption can be eliminated with thin cut-out PPS inserts.

To fill the insulation into the space between the lags, it is necessary to localize the cells by laying the bottom with a vapor-permeable membrane with a turn on wooden bars. In the very simple version you can use geotextiles or a vapor barrier to protect roofs. To prevent the membrane from shifting when filling the insulation, it is recommended to shoot it with staples to wooden elements floor systems.

How is the protection of the heat insulator

Various insulation and ventilation schemes may require limited air circulation in the space under the floor. This is especially true for houses on a pile-grillage foundation, where the insulation is in contact with outdoor air and must be protected from getting wet.

So that mineral wool does not lose its heat-saving properties when saturated with moisture, it is covered from above with a vapor barrier. The protective membrane is spread over the log and insulation, then fixed to the wooden bars with small nails or staples. The joints must be carefully glued on both sides, it is better if they are located exactly on the edges of the floor carrier system.

In those rare cases when the dew point can move above the insulation with the formation of condensate on the vapor barrier, it is required to provide air under the flooring from the boards. Must be stuffed over frame log, covered with a vapor barrier, a counter-lattice of boards of the same width as the logs themselves. The thickness of the vent usually does not exceed 20-25 mm, while the counter-lattice itself does not affect the quality of fixing the flooring from the boards.

Laying a grooved board

The insulated frame floor system has solid wood elements that serve as excellent cold bridges. To prevent the outflow of heat, you can cover frame system floors with heat-insulating and moisture-resistant material, such as GVLV or MGL, and then lay the boards, having previously outlined the lag position.

For insulated floors, it is recommended to use a grooved board with compensation grooves on the wrong side. Such flooring will not creak when walking, it is less prone to uneven shrinkage and warping. Due to the tight joining of the boards, any kind of blowing between them is excluded. If limited air circulation is planned under the floor, then the holes for its inflow will be 10-15 mm distance gaps near the walls, which also serve to compensate for the linear expansion of wood.

When laying, a comb is cut off from the end of the first board, the groove is oriented towards itself. Fastening is carried out in each lag at one or two points. The boards are fixed with ruffed nails, which are hammered obliquely into the groove and finished off by instructing a steel bar. For high-quality rallying of boards 20-30 cm in front of them, a beam is temporarily attached to the logs and loose floorboards are squeezed out of it with a lever or a car jack.

The last board from the set is cut in accordance with the dimensions of the remaining gap, taking into account the curvature of the walls. It is squeezed from the wall by a montage through a lining of wooden block, and then attached to the logs through and through directly from the surface. Traces of fastening with nails are subsequently covered with a plinth.

From the author: We are happy to welcome beginner builders who decide to insulate the floors in their homes with their own hands. This is undoubtedly correct solution, after all, the utility costs for maintaining it during the cold season directly depend on how well your house retains heat. The money you overpay for heating is enough for a natural mink coat, two sets of winter tires, or at least a few trips to a restaurant. It's a shame, right? Here is an incentive for you to read the article to the end.

Surely many of you have heard of the term "floor-on-ground pie." What kind of dish is this? "Pie" builders call a multi-layer structure used to create a warm, reliable and functional floor covering. The layers and technology of laying floor layers with insulation will differ depending on whether the work is carried out in an apartment or a private house, which top coat will be used in this case, how are things with humidity and temperature regime indoors, etc.

Floor installation in private homes is a complex process that requires certain knowledge. Now we will try to tell you in as much detail as possible how to properly make the base for floor insulation in a wooden frame house, we will share special features regarding styling technology. Read, understand, summarize. We are sure that by following our advice, you can easily do it yourself.

Source: http://papamaster.su

Why layered flooring is needed?

The visible part of the floor on which we walk is only the "tip of the iceberg", at the bottom of which there are several tens of centimeters of layers of other materials. All this is done in order to properly make the foundation in a wooden house and provide your home with a comfortable microclimate. Important parameters for any gender are:

evenness - if the base of the floor is uneven, the floor covering will wear out unevenly in different areas;
high sound insulation - the room is more comfortable, the less extraneous sounds are heard in it;
wear resistance, which affects the service life of the coating;
ability to keep warm.

Technology of laying layers of flooring

To carry out work with a wooden floor, we need the following materials:

screws and nails;
insulation - slabs of mineral wool, polystyrene or foam plastic;
vapor barrier membrane;
polyethylene film for vapor barrier;
penoizol or mounting foam;
wooden beam;
aluminum reinforcing tape.

The design of the flooring on the logs is the most popular of those used in modern construction. In the first case, when laying is carried out along the wooden beams of the first floor in a high-rise building, or in a wooden frame house, the foundation must be carried out in the following sequence:

Source: http://stroitel.linpc.ru

soil is selected under the base with a depth of about half a meter, after which markings are made for the posts, in increments of 60 to 70 centimeters;
the base under the posts must be rigid, so it is filled up and rammed, or poured with concrete;
the upper part of the columns is verified using a level;
the heat-insulating layer is filled up in such a way that at least 25 cm is left to the top of the columns. Expanded clay is the most popular insulation when carrying out such work; sawdust is also often used for this purpose;
after the solution has completely hardened, the beams are laid;
it is convenient when the supports are placed first along the perimeter, and then in the center of the room;
waterproofing is laid on top of the supports in two layers (polyethylene film, roofing felt or backfill varieties of waterproofing);
lags are installed. Most often, they are mounted perpendicular to the light from the window opening, in order to then lay the boards along it. First, logs are installed along the perimeter, with an indent from the wall from 2 to 3 centimeters. After that, intermediate ones are set. Logs are mounted on the base without the use of rigid fasteners. To strengthen the structure and give it rigidity, you can connect the logs to each other using wooden jumpers fixed on galvanized corners.
for additional insulation bars are nailed to the logs, on which the subfloor is mounted (plywood or OSB boards). It is recommended to lay it not too tightly, leaving gaps that will subsequently serve for ventilation;
layer is laid waterproofing film, which is usually fixed with a construction stapler. All joints are glued with reinforced tape;
insulation is being laid (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, foam plastic), on top of which a vapor barrier membrane is fixed;
using liquid penoizol, the joints between the wall and the film are processed. This is an additional protection for the entire structure;
the laying of the front flooring from the boards is carried out.

From this video instruction you will learn how to lay different floor coverings in a country house:

Now you know what a screed on wooden beams looks like, and you have familiarized yourself with all the stages of work. But how to do it on the ground? You can equip such a coating in any house, regardless of the level of underground ground water, on any foundation. The only exception is the structure on piles. Such a base is simple and reliable, easy to self-fulfillment. There are no basements or gaps for ventilation in the underground.

The correct wooden floor screed consists of nine main layers, each of which performs its own function. The thickness of them can vary for each building individually. All of them fit in a strictly defined sequence:

a layer of prepared clay, the purpose of which is to stop groundwater, more precisely, to cut off their capillary rise;
sand is poured in to weaken the capillary rise of water and to relieve the pressure of subsequent layers. You can use sand of any quality, including unwashed quarry;
a layer of coarse (with a fraction of 40–60 mm) crushed stone, which also prevents the rise of water. Each of the listed 3 layers must have a height of at least 10 centimeters and must be compacted. It is impossible to change the order of their falling asleep, since in this case the deformation and destruction of the entire structure will occur very quickly;
a layer of polyethylene film used to prevent the flow of cement laitance into the lower layers. It is laid in 2 layers with an overlap, all joints and places where it adheres to the wall are carefully glued;
rough concreting is carried out using “lean concrete”, for which fine (with a fraction of 10–12 mm) crushed stone and washed sand are used. Dispersed reinforcement is also carried out using steel fibers. Freshly poured mortar must be leveled with corner marks, this will simplify further work floor installation;
a waterproofing layer is laid, for which an ordinary roofing material is suitable. In some cases, it is recommended to lay it in two layers, the joints are soldered with a building hair dryer;
as the next layer (heat-insulating) any insulation is used - foam plastic, foam plastic. The joints between the insulation boards are also carefully glued to avoid heat loss;
a finishing screed is performed, in which "warm floors" can be immediately mounted;
laying flooring, which can be any at the request of the owner of the home.

This is how the foundation is “prepared” under parquet board, laminate, linoleum and other coatings. As you can see, there are special difficulties in working on correct styling gender with my own hands no, and anyone with minimal construction skills can handle them. Well, time to get down to business!

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If you decide to build a frame country house, then you should pay attention to the designs of all elements of the building. The roof, walls (street, internal), floors and floors are made in the form of a "pie", multilayer structure. If all the technology is followed, then we actually get a thermos.

The technological process of arranging each element of the building offers a different sequence and combination of components of a multilayer structure.

So for the roof its own set of layers, for the floor and its own. In this article, we will consider with you the features of the "pie" of the floor of a frame house, installation methods.

Before choosing a floor material, you should decide on the type of foundation.

In most cases frame houses erected on or on a foundation type. This is due primarily to the fact that the house is not heavy up to 16 tons. A pile foundation is the cheapest, as it does not require the use of special construction equipment. Therefore, we will accept that our foundation of our house has a pile appearance.

For reliability of isolation lay a double layer. Also, instead of timber, you can use boards with a width of 15-25 cm and a thickness of 5-6 cm. The laying technology is the same on the edge.

For attic space the subfloor must be strong to withstand the weight of the insulation and an adult. Usually in the attic glass wool (insulation) is left in open form, so the entire load falls on the subfloor of the attic.

To protect everyone wooden structures use processing by special means antiseptics and penetrating compounds. But there are small nuances, it is better to process everything before mounting each element separately.

If the height allows, then the subfloor is stuffed from the bottom immediately to bearing beams. As mentioned above, everything must be treated with protective equipment.

The second method is to make secondary guides from above, but this method has not gained distribution, as it will require additional costs.

In most cases, the foundation is low and cranial bars are used, which are made of timber 5 x 5 cm in size. Which are attached at the bottom of the log or beam, using self-tapping screws or nails.

Around this place, better use basalt glass wool, the boards should be well treated with a penetrating compound.

And the surface of the finished floor is covered sheet metal or sheet of asbestos.

plinth pile foundation

Since we use the foundation, there is a space between the subfloor and the ground. Many make the mistake of completely sewing up this space.

Thinking they're reducing heat loss, but in fact, moisture accumulates in this space and it has nowhere to go, which leads to an acceleration of the wood decay process.

To prevent this from happening opposite sides leave ventilation holes, which are decorated with lattices. Also, do not close the vents for the winter.

Arrangement of a warm floor in a frame house

For use both water heating and electric.

Let's start with electrical method, as it is often used in the arrangement warm floors. Cable floors, infrared and heating mats are used. It is best to trust the experts.

AT recent times more and more popular water heating wooden floor, as it is much cheaper than electric.

Water heating can be equipped in three ways:

Swedish plate.
Use of heat reflective plates.
Usage concrete screed.

Swedish plate - quite an expensive method of arranging a warm floor.

It is as follows:

Wait for the concrete to fully set. We get that the Swedish plate is a full-fledged one. Subsequently, we build a frame house on this slab.

Use of heat reflective plates.

Having decided to build a wooden house, the owner begins to anticipate in advance the pride that he will experience, showing the structure to his friends, unity with nature, comfort and peace that will fill new house and the hearts of the household. However wooden box- this is not the whole house. It is necessary to pay close attention to the device and maintenance of floors and ceilings. The article will talk about correct device wooden floors, as well as what constitutes a so-called floating floor pie.

Optimal floor in the house

Making the right floor in the house does not mean just pouring a layer of concrete and nailing boards to it, on which you can walk and not often stumble. The real floor is complex structure consisting of several layers of different materials. These layers allow not only to level the surface, but also provide hydro-noise and thermal insulation, increase the strength of the entire structure and form a functional and durable coating. By analogy with a puff culinary product, such a device is called a pie. Due to the multi-layer construction, the floor cake can be used in almost all floors: the first, second floor of the house, in the attic.

Reinforced waterproofing allows it to be used in bathrooms and other rooms with high humidity. However, before deciding to make a floor cake, you need to familiarize yourself with its structure and the arrangement of floors in the house in general.

Varieties of floors for the home

Floors can be made from various materials:

Concrete with metal elements- possess such advantages as simplicity of the device and profitability. The disadvantages include increased requirements for the unchanged geometry of the house and an increased load on the foundation;
Wooden - environmentally friendly, comfortable functional, but quite expensive.

Depending on the design and materials of manufacture of the house itself, appropriate floors must also be selected.

Floor Requirements

The main requirement for floors in a wooden private house is their material. They must also be made of wood. Concrete floors under walls made of noble wood will look stupid. In addition, the floors must be:

even - this applies to any floor, but it is not very easy to achieve this with wooden ones, since over time the tree boards can change their geometry;
warm - in the house on all floors it should be equally warm, which is ensured, among other things, by the design of the floors;
durable - also depends on their design;
aesthetic - the color and structure must match the walls; the tree itself - beautiful material, and various shades can be given to it with the help of various impregnations, varnishes or paints.

The main elements of the floor

To meet all requirements, wooden floors must be a multi-layer structure. Such a device will ensure strength, durability and thermal insulation. The main elements of a floor pie in a house are:

rough coating - the lowest layer;
waterproofing - the second layer that provides dryness and warmth in the room;
finishing coating - the top coating intended for laying the coating;
floor covering - the visible part of the floor.

Note! Such a device is called a floor pie. The main element for the device of all layers are wooden beams, bearing the entire main load and serving as the basis for installing the entire structure.

Overlappings in the house can be divided into how many types:

basement - performs the function of the floor in the lower room of the first floor;
interfloor - located between rooms located on different floors, for example - the first and second;
attic - separating from each other the premises of the upper (usually second) floor and the attic or attic.

Subfloor device

The main elements are:

Metal or wooden beams- are laid in such a way that their ends are on the foundation. If the distance between the support points exceeds three meters, then it is necessary to install additional support posts. Otherwise, beam deflection is possible. support poles usually laid out of brick. The recommended distance between the beams is 60 cm;
Skull bars - attached to the bottom of the beams;
Flooring - as subfloor flooring are commonly used chipboard. They are placed on cranial bars without additional fastening;
Insulation layers - consist of waterproofing and insulation. Mineral wool or fiberglass mats can be used as insulation. Can be used for waterproofing polyethylene film. Often, especially when installing a floor pie in the bathroom and on the first floor, polyethylene foam is used. In floors between floors and in bathrooms, lighter fiberglass is usually used.

Arranging the floor of the first floor of the house, it is necessary to lay a metal reinforcing mesh and a layer of roofing material on the ground for better waterproofing.

Finished floor

Used as a finishing floor wooden planks, along the edges of which there are devices for connecting the boards to each other according to the "groove - spike" principle. For better fastening you can use metal screws or nails. The distance from the edges of the boards to the walls should be about two centimeters to compensate for the possible expansion of the boards. Boards are laid in a direction perpendicular to the window.

Many have heard of "floating floors". What is it? For better sound insulation, as well as to improve ventilation under the flooring, you can lay the boards on the logs without attaching them to the walls. This design is called a "floating floor". The floating floor structure also allows the deck wood to expand when impacted. high temperatures without the risk of deformation of the boards. Such a "floating" device is more often used on the ceilings of the upper floors, in attics and attics, especially if the roof of the house is made of rolled metal, profiled sheet and other metal materials.

Features and nuances

Make the floor in the rooms wooden house, can be applied various technologies its stacking and choose various materials, including for insulation, sound and waterproofing.

In particular, as a heater, in addition to mineral and glass wool, expanded clay, filled into the recesses between the beams, sawdust or slag, can be used. Styrofoam sheets will also work. However, materials such as expanded clay, slag or sawdust are better suited for ground flooring, especially under bathrooms.

At the same time, when laying the floor of the floors of the second and more floors, it is better to use mineral wool for better sound insulation. It is also better suited for floors of the attic floor.

Important! In the bathroom and other rooms with high humidity, it is better as insulating material use fiberglass, as it has great waterproofing properties.

Advantages and disadvantages of wooden floors

Properly arranged wooden floors have the following advantages:

Environmental friendliness - application natural materials almost never harms the health of households. If it is necessary to change some elements of the floor, there will be no problems with their disposal;
Aesthetics - very beautiful and noble;
Durability - with proper care, such floors will last a long time even in such "difficult" rooms as, for example, a bathroom. In many houses pre-revolutionary building the floors that were installed over a hundred years ago still stand today.

However, in all these barrels of honey there are quite a few fly in the ointment:

Device complexity- in contrast to the concrete floor, which is not difficult to pour for the average builder, wooden floors, arranged according to science, are long and difficult to install;
The need for care- the tree is exposed to moisture, various microorganisms, fungus (this is most critical in the kitchen or bathroom). This forces builders to apply various antiseptic and other chemicals during laying. In addition, the boards must be periodically treated with such preparations and during their operation. They must be kept in perfect cleanliness, which is not always possible, for example, in the country. In addition, they need regular coating with paint and varnish;
High price- the construction of such floors require large funds than concrete floors, in addition, regular thorough maintenance of them also requires financial costs;
Service - at any, even the most quality construction, any floor, after its installation requires constant maintenance in order to avoid the appearance of cracks, chips and breakages in its elements. Such damage can lead to the destruction of the entire structure, and in case of damage to the floors of the ceilings, it can lead to damage to the walls. Damage to the floors in the bathroom can cause a violation of the waterproofing and water pipes.

Building a house in general and installing floors in particular is a long, laborious and responsible process. Doing it yourself is a thankless task. Even if the owner of the house has the necessary tools and materials to do everything himself, it is better not to perform feats on your own. There are many construction companies professional staff possessed necessary knowledge and skills in the construction of such houses, own necessary tools and equipment for laying floors in the house and bathroom.

In private houses and apartments, a construction on logs is considered a popular way of arranging the floor. This method is quite versatile, it allows you to insulate and level the base. However, its design can vary greatly depending on the floor, type of building ( private house or an apartment), the presence of a warm basement, etc.

In this article, we will look at several options for laying a wooden floor cake.

Floor frame

First, we will study the main constituent elements and the main rules:

The underground space from the underlays to the floor board must be at least 1 cm (and not more than 25 cm for floors on the ground). This is necessary for good ventilation inside the frame.
lags- these are transverse bars that serve as the basis for further cladding with boards. They can lean on beams, concrete slab, posts and even on the ground (when using pads).

Note! According to GOST 8486-86, unplaned boards treated with an antiseptic from coniferous or hardwood, except for linden or poplar, are used for logs. The moisture content of wood should not exceed 18%.

The width of the log when laying on a slab should be within 80-100 mm and 100-120 mm when laying on posts or beams. The thickness when laying on a slab should be 25-40 mm, and when laying on posts - 40-50 mm.
beams are horizontally laid structural elements that perform load-bearing functions. They are supported at least at two points on load-bearing walls.
columns(linings) are used to level the base. For logs with a thickness of 40-50 mm, linings are installed every 80-110 cm.
The laying step of the lag depends on the thickness of the skin. For example, if you use the thinnest floorboard of 21 mm, then the laying step of the lag should not exceed 30 cm.
It is best to use a thicker floorboard of 35 mm, and use a standard 60 cm laying spacing, especially if you are going to insulate the base. So you do not have to cut the insulation in width.

Mounting technology

If the base is uneven, then it can be leveled with a backfill of sand with a moisture content of less than 4%.

Installation lag

Most often, the logs are installed perpendicular to the light from the window, so that the boards then lie along it. So the gaps between the boards will be less visible.
First of all, extreme logs are installed with a gap of 2-3 cm from the wall. Then intermediate lags are installed.
Logs are laid on the base without rigid fastening. Their evenness is checked using a level and a 2-meter rail. They must all be in the same plane. At the same time, leveling due to wooden linings or wedges is not recommended, but adding sand under the waterproofing is acceptable.
To increase the rigidity of the structure, the logs are connected to each other by wooden jumpers, which are attached to 4 * 4 galvanized corners.

Note! Be sure to install an additional lag in doorway so that it protrudes at least 5 cm into each of the rooms. This is necessary so that the boards from adjacent rooms rest on one base.

Insulating layers

If laying takes place on a concrete slab, it is imperative to use a waterproofing layer, especially if the screed is new. To do this, use roofing material, plastic film, backfill species waterproofing. They are laid in a continuous hermetic layer, with an overlap on the walls of 15 cm.
To increase sound insulation and reduce the transmission of vibration noise through the floors, it is recommended to install logs on soundproof pads. They can be made with your own hands from polyurethane, cork backing, soft fiberboard.
To insulate the floor, a layer of mineral wool or expanded polystyrene can be laid between the logs. Mineral wool also gives a soundproofing effect. Unlike a concrete screed, it is not necessary to use heaters with high density, since they will not be loaded.
For additional protection from the transmission of noise through the structure, before installing the skin, a cork substrate can be laid on the logs.
If you use mineral wool, then it must be closed from above vapor barrier membrane such as glassine. This is necessary to protect against moisture ingress and condensation. It is fixed as the boards are laid with a stapler on the logs.
After installing the vapor barrier under the boards does not remain ventilation gap, therefore, on top of it, it is recommended to fasten a counter-lattice of boards with a thickness of at least 1 cm onto the logs. It will be attached to them batten.

Finished flooring

As the last layer, most often, its price is approximately 13,500 rubles per cubic meter.
To save money, you can use an unplaned board, but you will have to cut and process it yourself.
Also a good alternative is thick plywood or OSB sheets. For floor sheathing, their thickness should be 15-21 mm.

The easiest and most common way is to install wooden logs on concrete base in the apartment.

The main feature of the wooden floor in the apartment is the absence of an additional subfloor. Here, a concrete slab is used instead.
The base of the floor in the apartments is warm, so insulation is rarely used here, but sound insulation is required.

Wooden floor cake for an apartment with soundproofing:

Concrete slab leveled with sand;
Waterproofing;
Noise-reducing pads;
Wooden logs;
Mineral wool;
Vapor barrier;
Counter grille;
Sheathing from boards or plywood;

First floor in a private house

Consider the following design example for the first floor in a wooden house. It does not use logs, and the installation of the skin takes place directly on the floor beams. This saves ceiling height, makes the circuit simpler and cheaper.

The pie of the floor of the first floor in a wooden house is shown in the photo.

Such a scheme is suitable for the first floor above a warm basement, and for floors between the 1st and 2nd floors.

At the very bottom there are cranial bars made of boards 100 * 25 mm. They are screwed to beams with bottom side. They are needed for the construction of a subfloor for laying insulation.
Then there are load-bearing beams 200 * 50 mm.
The draft floor from boards 100 * 25 mm is laid on cranial bars.
Laying on the subfloor windproof film(vapor barrier membrane).
Then a heater is laid between the lag. AT specific example 2 layers of mineral are used cotton wool Rockwool Light Butts laid in a run-up, the total layer thickness is 20 cm.
From above, the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier.
Then the lag is trimmed. AT this case used plywood FSF 21 mm thick. It fits with offset joints.
Additionally, it is recommended to add counter-battens to this scheme to create a gap under the plywood.

A floor pie in a wooden house to cover the second floor can be made as follows:

At the very bottom of the diagram is a 5 * 4 cm timber. It is needed to support the fiberboard sheets, give additional rigidity to the frame and as decorative purposes.
Then comes the vapor barrier. It is not necessary to use it here, but it will additionally protect the first floor from dust from mineral wool. If the 1st and 2nd floors are heated, then it can be replaced with a windproof layer, but during wet rooms be sure to use a vapor barrier membrane.
Then there are fiberboard sheets to create a subfloor for laying insulation. They are attached with a construction stapler from below to the beams.
Mineral wool 15 cm thick is laid on fiberboard. It is mainly needed for sound insulation.
From above, the insulation is closed with a windshield so that dust from it does not penetrate into the room.
A continuous crate of boards 150 * 25 mm is mounted on the wind protection.
Sheets of plywood FK or FSF, 9-12 mm thick, are attached to the boards. You can also not do solid crate, but, as in the previous version, use 21 mm plywood.

Floor of the first floor on the ground

If you do not have a warm basement, then the installation of the floor on the ground floor is done on the ground using stands from the posts.

To make such a floor, you first need to remove the vegetative and soft layers of soil. This can be done locally at the installation site of the posts, or over the entire area inside the strip foundation.
Then a dry layer of soil of at least 15-20 cm is filled up and carefully compacted.
The resulting base must be moistened and crushed stone or gravel is pressed into it a few centimeters from above.
Then the sand-gravel mixture is backfilled and, after compaction, red brick columns are laid on it to support the floor beams. They are laid in increments of 70-100 cm, several bricks high. Above and below the columns must be protected by a waterproofing layer of roofing material.
Between the posts, it is desirable to lay a layer of waterproofing so that moisture from below does not affect the beams.
Beams are laid in the center of the columns. Their height should be at least 2 cm greater than the height of the subfloor boards and insulation in order to leave an air gap.
Subfloor boards are stacked on posts along the edges.
Then comes the layer of vapor barrier.
A heater (mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam, polystyrene) is laid between the beams.
On top of the beams, a floorboard of the finished floor is attached.

Conclusion

We examined the main ways to install a wooden floor in private houses and apartments. At a price, this design is almost equivalent to pouring a cement-sand screed, but warmer and less labor-intensive. It will be much easier to find specialists for installing a wooden floor than for pouring a screed.

The instruction on the video in this article will show you the entire installation process in practice: