High-quality timber for construction. The correct wooden house from a construction bar. Basic rules on how to choose a timber for building a house

Wood - noble and very valuable construction material, from which you can build any building, starting from small gazebo or bathhouses and ending with huge mansions from a log house. To allow wood to open up better and give all its advantages, you need to choose it correctly for certain purposes, which will require some knowledge. In our article, we will tell you which timber is better for building houses, and what you need to pay attention to when choosing and working with it.

Let us immediately state that this lumber in most cases after processing takes rectangular shape, while its dimensions can be completely different, and the cross section can be from 50 to 400 mm. Currently, several types of it are actively used. Depending on the processing method, the timber is:

whole;
profiled;
glued.

We invite you to take a closer look at all these types of popular lumber in order to know which one is better and what you should choose for building your home.

Solid timber

Outwardly, such a beam looks like an ordinary log, sawn from four sides, and its diameter exceeds 50 mm. Due to its versatility, this type of lumber is more often than other types suitable for construction. various designs, such as rafter system, wall partitions, interfloor floors at home. Treatment solid timber quite simple, and this explains its affordable cost. But you also need to know that this material requires additional processing. protective equipment Otherwise, it won't last as long as it should.

The cross section of such logs can be from 150 to 220 mm. Different types of buildings require different diameters of wood: houses for year-round living need lumber with a cross section of 200-250 mm, no matter what size of building is planned. For smaller buildings, such as a bathhouse, a size of 150-200 mm will be sufficient. Installation of unprofiled timber is not difficult, and this is another reason for its high popularity in the construction industry.

Would like to note main advantages of this type of timber:

constant availability, due to which the timber is in the lead in demand in the construction industry, while all its sizes are popular. This lumber can be bought in any city in every construction market, because the well-established harvesting mechanism allows you to supply retail chains wood without interruption;
affordable price, allows you to choose natural material and build a house from environmentally friendly timber. Natural humidity is constantly preserved here, the harvesting process is simplified to the maximum, hence the price that suits most developers;
quick and easy installation. No matter how large-scale the building is, it is possible to build a house using a solid beam without additional specialized equipment. The installation process will be easily mastered by a team of several carpenters who will be able to build a building of 36 sq.m. in just 5-6 days.

Unfortunately, in addition to the advantages of a solid beam, there are also disadvantages:

mandatory finishing works or planing. Best of all, the now popular block house or wall paneling copes with the task of finishing. Also here it will be necessary to trim the jute after the house shrinks and shrinks;
frequent non-compliance of unprofiled lumber with GOST, namely, an uneven cut or custom size cross section of the beam. Due to such shortcomings, the differences between the crowns can be significant, and the seams themselves can sometimes be at different levels. In order not to run into such troubles, it is better to purchase a bar, the size of which matches for each unit, and this is already a high-quality product, but here the price will be almost the same as for profiled lumber;
susceptibility to fungal attack. This happens due to the fact that logs are not dried in special chambers during harvesting, which greatly increases the risk of their infection with fungal infections. Now we can say with confidence that every 7-8th log in the construction market has such a drawback. What is the way out of the situation? There is a solution to this problem, and it consists in careful processing of wood. antiseptics that ensure the destruction of harmful microorganisms and prevent recurrence. Note that antiseptics are not cheap, which means that the construction estimate will be increased;
unpresentable appearance, which is why the raw timber is significantly inferior to its profiled counterpart. If the walls are planed, the seams may appear and open insulation material, laid between the crowns;
cracking susceptibility. After shrinkage and shrinkage of the house, the walls may become cracked, while the size and weight of the building do not matter. Such a spoiled appearance of the facade can only be corrected in one way - external cladding. decorative materials. What will be the lining, everyone chooses for himself individually.
blowing through the seams between the crowns. The absence of tongue and groove fasteners leads to the fact that the house has poor thermal insulation properties.

Profiled timber

This type the beam has strictly specified dimensions with an accuracy of a millimeter, and thanks to the calibration it is better to work with it, as well as its positive properties significantly increased in comparison with the previous version. For strength and ease of installation, the lumber is supplied with landing bowls with spikes, which are fixed in the grooves. Simplifies the construction process and the presence of vertical cuts. The construction of such logs is obtained without gaps, which will not allow moisture and drafts to penetrate inside the dwelling. For the same reason, wood decay does not occur here.

The construction of profiled timber has excellent thermal insulation properties which results in savings insulating materials. As for the decorative properties, they are at their best here, besides, even walls do not require additional finishing. To prevent future construction, the profiled material must be well dried, and its moisture content should not exceed 10%. Since this process requires special boxes and equipment, this inevitably affects the final cost of the goods.

The advantages of profiled wood include:

lovely decorative properties, thanks to which it is not necessary to carry out outer cladding facade;
all joints (grooves and spikes) are cut on special equipment, so their dimensions match perfectly, giving the structure special strength and stability, and
the house gives uniform shrinkage during operation without distortions and subsidence;
joints between corner elements and crowns are reinforced with stronger connections, which eliminates the blowing of the structure. There is no need to trim the jute, and there is no need to caulk the structure, and an exception can be made only on the end and corner fasteners.

Unfortunately, no matter what types of timber you choose, none of them is without drawbacks. Profiled timber is no exception, because it requires a break in assembly process to dry, and time is always in short supply. After assembly, the house should stand for about a year, and only then you can start finishing. Since the profiled material is processed, but still, solid log, then it will not be possible to avoid cracks on its surface, and this is also a minus.

Glued laminated timber

Practically perfect option for building a house. This type timber is made from conifers tree. In the production process, the log is sawn into boards, which are carefully dried. Further, each board is subject to treatment with flame retardants and antiseptics to protect the wood from insects and give it fire-fighting properties. The processed lamellas are of the same size, this is very important, since at the next stage they are glued together. One glued beam can hold up to 7 boards, and its shrinkage is no more than 1%.

The advantages of such lumber are quite significant:

glued laminated timber does not crack, like the previous types;
the facade does not need finishing;
there is practically no shrinkage, which means that the house will not lead over time;
processed lumber does not rot and is not affected by insects;
due to the high strength of the timber, it is possible to build structures with a complex architectural solution from it.

A significant disadvantage of such building product is its high cost, several times higher than the price of its non-profiled counterpart.

And, despite such disadvantages, as well as having considered all types of timber, we can say with confidence that it is better not to find glued laminated timber for the construction of private houses. We hope that after reading the material of the article, you will be able to firmly decide which of the proposed options to choose for your future home.

The thickness of the timber for the house: choose best option

How to correctly calculate the thickness of the walls for a wooden house

During construction, the thickness of the walls affects 3 parameters:

Wall strength and structural stability. According to all calculations, for the construction of a two-story cottage made of wood, there is enough thickness load-bearing structures 160 mm.
Noise isolation. Compared to bricks and blocks, wood wins, so we get good noise protection even with minimal wall thicknesses.
Thermal insulation. it main reason disputes among customers of houses made of glued and planed timber, logs. It is to increase thermal insulation that glued laminated timber is produced with a thickness of 175, 200 and 240 mm.

The ideal situation for the builder and future owner is to build a house from a homogeneous material without additional thermal insulation. But for this it is necessary to correctly calculate the parameters of the wall.

Wooden house: wall thickness according to the standard

SP 50.13330.2012 specifies the details of calculating the thermal protection of buildings. There are many formulas in the set of rules - the calculation of overlaps, floor covering, external and internal walls, dependence on climate zone, full set to determine the characteristics of the building. But now we are only interested in calculating the dimensions of the building envelope:

d - layer thickness, R - heat transfer resistance (set for a specific region), k - thermal conductivity coefficient (depending on the material). For Moscow, the resistance to heat transfer is approximately 3.2. The average coefficient of thermal conductivity of wood: pine - 0.15, spruce - 0.11 (formulas and values are taken from SP 50.13330.2012 and Wikipedia materials). The result is a wall thickness of at least 35-48 cm. According to the same calculations, Brick wall should be 0.64-2.24 m, and concrete - more than 3 m.

But we see a discrepancy almost everywhere: the thickness of the walls of log cabins rarely exceeds 140-180 mm at the joints, and panel high-rise buildings standard reinforced concrete products - only 140-200 mm. How is it possible to live in such houses without additional insulation? In practice, dimensions “according to the standard” are often impossible, therefore, the work of heat engineering is taken into account in construction.

A Practical Approach to Determining Wall Thickness

When calculating, they are rather based not on thermal characteristics, but on a combination of thermal insulation, such as heating equipment and heating costs. The type of building matters (for permanent and seasonal residence), type of fuel (main gas, solid fuel, electricity). As a result, it turns out that you can build from virtually any material, and the extra centimeters only reduce the monthly heating costs.

Question:
It is written on the Internet that for year-round living, a wall thickness of 175-200 mm glued laminated timber is not enough, you need at least 250 mm. So, houses with timber less than 250 mm are cold?

Answer:
It all depends on the heating and ventilation system. Even in a house with enhanced thermal insulation, there will be heat loss through the foundation, roof, when doors and windows are opened. According to our calculations, for permanent residence in the presence of main gas, a wall thickness of 175 mm is sufficient, otherwise the savings on heating do not pay off construction costs. If it is supposed to use electricity, then it is better to choose the production of houses from glued laminated timber 200 or 240 mm.

Let's summarize

For exact compliance with the norms, the thickness of the wall must be 48 cm, but physical properties wood (quick heating, room humidity control, etc.) allow you to comfortably live in a house with a wall thickness of 200 and even 175 mm (with a slight increase in heating costs). More than 3,000 GOOD WOOD customers can confirm this: in most projects, glued laminated timber 175 and 200 mm is used. The main thing is to competently and efficiently perform the connections, correctly install energy-efficient windows, and think over the ventilation system.

Tree to tree discord: real and ideal thickness

Massif house

When building a house from rounded logs, it is necessary to take into account the differences in waves - a diameter of 200 mm at the junction gives 100-120 mm. Accordingly, in bottlenecks protection drops by 40-50%. Thermal insulation must be calculated precisely according to the characteristics at the joints. The second danger of the array is wood cracks and gaps between crowns. The material in the first months (up to one and a half years) goes through a stage of intensive shrinkage - the tree takes its final shape, the fibers twist, crack. Cracks sometimes reach the center of the log or split the beam into two parts.
When cracks and crevices appear, the thermal insulation falls. If the wall is open (builders recommend abandoning finishing and insulation in the first year), then it will be caulked. In the future, it is recommended to carry out inspections, repair cracks and update interventional thermal insulation every 5-7 years.

Glued beam house

The situation is more pleasant high-tech material glued from several pre-dried lamellae. The form does not change over the years, multilayer structure protects against deep cracks. As a result, the initial thermal insulation remains at the calculated level. At least the owners' reviews of glued laminated timber and the reports of GOOD WOOD emergency inspectors do not report problems with the deterioration of thermal insulation. Theoretically, the thickness of glued laminated timber is not limited, but in most cases the standard thickness is used - 160, 175, 200, 240 mm.

The characteristics of such walls have been checked so thoroughly and in detail that GOOD WOOD specialists have developed a calculator to calculate the monthly heating costs of most typical projects:

When building houses from glued laminated timber on a turnkey basis, the calculator helps to estimate costs in advance and consciously choose wall parameters, floor characteristics, and window design.

So what should be the thickness of the walls in the house?

With a scientific approach to construction, it turns out that in any case it is required to increase the thickness of the walls to unreasonable limits (up to 30, 50, 100 or more centimeters) or use a layer of insulation and exterior finish. With some materials (expanded concrete blocks, logs or planed timber) this happens.
Practice teaches us to include heat engineering parameters and heating costs in calculations, to find a reasonable balance between thickness and heating costs. The result is warm houses without increasing the thickness of the walls or additional insulation. The main thing in this case is to correctly assess the difference between construction costs and heating costs.

Construction timber of natural moisture

Country houses, baths and not expensive houses for permanent residence, it is advantageous to build from freshly sawn timber of natural moisture.

Such lumber is much cheaper than profiled or glued beams. Assembling the walls of the house from building timber It is quite simple and, if certain rules are followed, allows you to build a reliable and durable house.

The figure below shows a variant of an unburied strip foundation, combined with a plinth, for one-story house with an attic and with walls made of timber.

Two options for arranging a strip foundation for a one-story house made of timber: a - a shallow foundation for a load-bearing wall; b - not buried foundation for the bearing wall; c - shallow foundation for self-supporting wall. 1 - foundation tape; 2 - air hole; 3 - sand cushion; 4 - top and bottom layer of crushed stone 5-10 cm; 5 - backfilling; 6 - vertical backfilling of the construction site; 7 - vertical backfilling of slopes around an unburied foundation; 8 - bottom and top waterproofing of the basement.

Tape monolithic foundation- the plinth shown in the figure is designed for building a house on weak peaty soils " former swamp", With high level ground water.

The foundation strip of concrete grade B25 is reinforced at the lower and upper levels with three longitudinal bars of the main reinforcement of class A-III, with a diameter of 12 mm. The value of the protective layer of concrete for reinforcement in foundations - 50 mm.

To increase the bearing capacity of the soil, reduce the degree of its heaving, as well as to divert surface water from the house, soil is dumped within the boundaries of the foundation, plus at least 1.5 meters outside, pos. 6 on the image. Backfilling is carried out with non-heaving sandy soil.

For soils with a higher bearing capacity, the width of the base of the foundation can be reduced to 500 - 350 mm.

sand pillow, pos.3, laid in layers of 100 mm. on a layer of washed crushed stone rammed into natural soil pos.4. Each layer of sand under the sole of the foundation is carefully rammed.

On a sand cushion under the base of the foundation, a layer of rubble is again laid and rammed, pos.4. Compacted crushed stone is shed with heated bitumen, which, after solidification, creates waterproofing film under the base of the foundation. The bitumen film prevents cement laitance from leaving the sand when pouring the foundation, and subsequently does not let water through the capillaries of the concrete foundation tape.

The side surfaces of the foundation in contact with the ground are smeared twice with heated bituminous mastic. The concrete surface is primed before applying the mastic.

More detailed information about the construction of various structures of shallow foundations, read the links above.

A house with a grillage on piles with a basement floor is more expensive, more difficult to build and operate than a house on a shallow or not buried foundation with.

Traditionally wooden house they make it with a basement floor and a cold underground - they leave a space between the ground and the floor of the lower floor.

The emergence of new thermal insulation materials allows you to build wooden house without basement floor with cheaper, warmer and durable floors on the ground:

To learn how to make such a floor in a house from a bar, click on the picture

The lower strapping of the walls of the timber

The bars of the lower strapping along the contour of the walls are laid on the basement tape through the waterproofing layer. The surface of the plinth is coated with bituminous mastic, on which a layer of waterproofing is laid.

Outside, the dimensions of the lower trim are recommended to be 50-70 less than the dimensions of the foundation mm. from each side. Sheathing bars are supported on the outer ledge of the foundation, and the joint between and the strapping is closed sheet metal- ebb. In addition, if the walls hang heavily from the foundation, then it looks ugly.

The joint of the lower trim and the base is covered with a metal sheen. The ebb sheets are fixed on the strapping beam with self-tapping screws. Wall cladding is performed over the ebb.

The bars of the lower trim and the wooden parts of the basement are recommended to be planed and treated with a protective antiseptic. The bioprotective composition must be intended for the treatment of raw wood. Planed and impregnated wood does not rot longer.

Do not coat raw wood with oil- or bitumen-based compounds. The depth of impregnation with such compositions will be small, and the waterproof film on the surface of the timber will conserve moisture inside the wood.

Bioprotection is effective only during the first few years after application, protecting the wood during its drying period.

To protect the strapping beams from moisture for a long time, it is recommended under the beams, on the basement waterproofing, to lay a gasket along the entire length dry antiseptic board wrapped with roofing felt.

Modern advanced builders make such gasket between trim and plinth made of extruded polystyrene foam(penoplex, etc.) 40 thick mm.

The gasket protects the beams from moisture, which can accumulate on the surface of the plinth waterproofing as a result of vapor condensation or soaking. By changing the thickness of the gasket, you can align the strapping bars to the horizon.

The bars of the lower harness are interconnected with construction brackets or galvanized steel linings.

After assembling and checking the diagonals (rectangularity) of the strapping frame, its position on the foundation tape is marked with paint - marks are applied to the timber and waterproofing. This is necessary to control the position of the frame during the installation of walls.

It is not recommended to fasten the strapping bars to the foundation. It should be remembered that during the drying process, the dimensions of the beam decrease, and the dimensions of the foundation remain constant. Temporary fasteners can be installed that fix the position of the piping frame on the foundation only for the period of installation of walls.

Socle ceiling of a wooden house from a bar

For the construction of a traditional basement floor, the structural scheme "beams - logs" is most often used.

Beams from a bar or boards on an edge it is better to lay on the ledge of the base. Such a ceiling design, when the beams are loosely connected to the strapping beams, provides better safety and ease of replacement of wooden parts in the basement of the house. Moisture from the beams is not transferred to the strapping beam, and vice versa. If necessary the floor beam or strapping beam can be replaced relatively easily.

From above, across the beams, bars are fixed - logs. Insulation is laid between the beams and between the lags. Slabs or black floor boards are laid on the logs.

This cover design allows:

Arrange the logs with a step convenient for laying subfloor slabs.
Get a rigid structure and overall height overlaps not less than 200 mm. using cheaper lumber of a smaller section. Such a ceiling height is necessary for laying insulation plates of the required thickness between the beams and lags.

The construction of the basement only on beams, without a log, is used when using thick boards as a subfloor - 40 mm. and more, and beams with a height of 200 mm.

Beams should be laid so that there was a ventilation gap between their ends and the strapping (2 cm) . This is done with the help of gaskets, which are removed after fastening the beams with brackets or steel plates (see Fig., Node B). The end of the beam must rest on the plinth for a length of at least 120 mm.

The technology for installing beams is simple. First, mount the extreme beams and align them in horizontal plane. After that, a board is placed on the edge between them and intermediate beams are installed on it. The work is usually controlled visually, and if necessary, a level is applied. Temporary technological flooring from boards is laid on the beams.

On the base, the ends of the beams are laid in the same way as the strapping beam, through a layer of waterproofing and leveling pads.

Before installing the basement, the space under the floor is thoroughly cleaned of wood residues and other debris that can rot. The surface of the earth under the floor is covered with sandy soil with a layer thickness of 10 cm . and ram it.

Over sand preparation the soil in the subfield over the entire surface is covered with rolled waterproofing based bituminous materials with careful gluing of the joints of the panels. Waterproofing is wrapped on the walls of the basement and glued to them.

A modern solution that provides comfort and saves on heating costs is a device.

To learn how to make such a warm floor without concrete screed, click on the picture.

Double strapping of walls from a bar

There is another version of the bottom strapping device log house- double binding. The double strap design is well shown in the video clip.

The purpose of the double strapping device is to the floor beams rested on the protrusion of the lower beam, without cutting into the upper beam of the strapping.

The time will come, and, as mentioned above, such an independent laying of beams will make it quite easy to replace defective beams and strapping bars. In addition, the durability of wooden strapping parts is increased.

By building codes the ends of the beams must rest on the lower beam for a length of at least 100 mm. Therefore, the lower beam is recommended to choose a width of at least 200 mm.

Double strapping is beneficial to use in structures, when the width of the basement (grillage) does not allow floor beams to rest on it.

In country houses log houses on stilts or columnar foundations often a separate grillage is not made. The lower beam of the strapping is laid directly on the pile heads or foundation columns. In this design, the lower beam of the double strapping actually serves as a grillage. Floor beams in this case are often cut into the upper strapping beam. This is a cheaper and less durable option.

Three ways to connect timber in the corners of the walls

When building houses or baths, the following three methods of connecting beams at the corners of walls are most popular:

Connection "to the floor of the tree." At the ends of the bars, horizontal cuts are made in half the thickness and the ends are laid on top of each other. The parts in the connection must be fastened with building brackets, galvanized steel linings or dowels. The connection is easy to do, but requires additional fastening of parts and is “cold”, due to easily blown gaps.
Connection in a one-sided key groove is an analogue of the connection, which is traditionally used in log cabins from round logs. The connection is “warm”, strong, but difficult to implement in a construction site. Most often, in log cabins, it is used in the manufacture of parts in the factory.
In dressing with a root spike - the most common gusset bars. The profile of such a connection is quite easy to mark and cut out. The gaps in the tongue-and-groove lock are sealed by pushing the interventional insulation from above.

The "tree floor" connection is usually used in the corners to fasten the beams of the lower trim of the building.

Connections of partitions from a bar with an external wall

Beam connection inner wall- partitions with a crown outer wall the type of groove - the spike turns out to be “warm”, since it does not have through joints to the outside. This connection is easy to make.

"Warm" connection of the beams of the partition and the outer wall. 1- main timber; 2 - dobor bar; 3 - partition beam

In every fourth crown of the log house, the partition beam is fastened to the wall beam with building brackets, or galvanized steel overlays.

The figure below shows the connection node in the crown of three bars at once - the outer wall, the bay window and the inner wall - the partition.

The connection of the beam in the crowns of the outer wall, the bay window and the inner wall - partitions

The connection of the bars in this unit is made using rectangular keys that are inserted into the grooves in the parts to be joined.

In one crown, the end of the beam of the outer wall is adjacent to the end of the beam of the bay window, and the end of the beam of the partition is adjacent to the beam of the wall. In the next crown, the ends of the beam of the outer wall and the bay window are adjacent to different sides to the partition wall.

Timber for houses, baths in your city

Steel perforated fasteners for timber

The wooden parts of a house made of timber are traditionally connected and fastened together with the help of tie-ins, cuts, spikes, grooves. different configuration, as well as steel construction staples and nails.

AT last years perforated steel fasteners appeared on the construction market, specially designed for connecting wooden parts in construction.

When developing the designs and sizes of connectors, the standard dimensions of wooden parts, which are widely used in construction, as well as the loads that wooden parts usually withstand, were taken into account.

Steel perforated fasteners - support for a wooden beam.

For example, the article above repeatedly emphasized the need to fasten floor beams to strapping beams without cutting, in order to ensure easy replacement of floor beams and not weaken the strapping.

The use of metal supports for fastening the beams to the strapping beams makes it easy to solve this problem and, in some cases, simplify the design of the basement of the house.

The beam support is made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 2.5 mm. With high rates strength.

metal part supports should cover at least 2/3 of the height of the beam.

Dimensions of the "mouth" steel support must correspond to the width of the beam, and the height of the support is chosen at least 2/3 of the height of the beam.

To wooden details the steel support is screwed with self-tapping screws. The load-bearing capacity of a beam connector is equal to the sum of the load-bearing capacities of the screws that fasten the support to the beam.

In order to use bearing capacity the connector is fully screwed into each hole of the steel support. If this is not necessary, then the self-tapping screws must be screwed into the beam into the upper and lower, and then into every second hole. In the strapping beam, self-tapping screws are screwed into each hole of the row located closer to the beam.

The length of the screws is chosen equal to half the width of the beam. The diameter of the screws should be slightly smaller size holes in the steel support.

Instead of self-tapping screws, you can use "ruffed" nails. Ordinary nails with a smooth surface cannot be used.

The gap between the end of the beam and the strapping beam is allowed no more than 3 mm.

You can use perforated steel fasteners in other structures of a log house. For example, construction staples convenient to replace with mounting plates or corners.

Issued big variety steel perforated fasteners for a variety of assemblies wooden structures.

Admire the art of our ancestors, who built without single nail, Yes, you certainly may. But taking an example from them and trying to repeat it now hardly makes sense.

Modern technologies allow you to do a lot faster, stronger, and cheaper. For example, it is convenient to connect a beam, a beam along the length using such a gerbera connector.

A typical application of a gerbera beam connector is connection and splicing of beams, purlins, rafters not on a support, but in a span, in the absence of bending and torque moments in the articulation unit.

Connectors should be located from the support at a distance of 1/7 of the span length L. Calculations show that at this distance from the support to the beam, girder or rafter, the minimum bending and torsional moments will act.

Always use a pair of connectors for each connection. The height of the connector must be equal to the height of the beam. Gerber connectors are made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 2 mm.

Reasons to choose timber for building a house

A timber beam allows you to exclude some of the properties of a tree that complicate building process making it more labor intensive. The bar is made of a unified profile and length. Folding a house out of it will turn out quickly. If you carefully calculate the required volume, you can avoid unnecessary waste of material, which will significantly reduce the estimated cost of construction.

Glued laminated timber is not subject to shrinkage, does not crack under the influence of the surrounding climate. It does not lose properties during long-term operation. When laying a beam having flat edges, a flat wall, it is easy to cover it with finishing material or insulation.

Types of timber for building houses and sizes, advantages and disadvantages

Let's figure out what kind of timber is for building a house. There are 4 types of material:

unprofiled from an array;

non-profiled glued;

profiled from the array;

profiled glued.

Ordinary building block

This option is a blank of logs with planed lateral semicircular edges. They are given a section square shape, with side dimensions from 100 to 250 mm. Before use, the material is dried in natural conditions.

Bars of different sizes are selected depending on the purpose of the future structure

Its use in construction cannot be called best solution. Suitable for building simple building structures. It has certain disadvantages, we list them:

naturally dried wood undergoes shrinkage, warping and cracking during operation;

loose adjoining of the bars to each other leads to the need to insulate and seal the gaps between them after a while;

the material is not subjected to finishing, so it is required to finish the surface in order to get a beautiful and neat wall;

needs more reinforcement bearing walls and corners of the house;

impregnation required special formulations to give the structure fire and bacterial resistance.

Of course, this is a fairly cheap and widely available material. If you agree to incur additional costs in order to refine it to the desired qualities, then this option will be quite acceptable.

Profiled timber

The same whole logs are used for it, as for the usual planed one. Processing is carried out on woodworking equipment with precise settings. It allows you to get a perfectly smooth surface and ideal dimensions.

The profiled beam allows the material to adhere tightly to each other and during the operation of the house to prevent drafts between the cracks

The process is different in that the sawn logs are first dried to 22% moisture content or less, and then further work with them. The connecting planes have a comb or tenon-groove. When the comb comes into contact with adjacent bars, a tight joint between the crowns is obtained. The thorn-groove allows you to lay a heater in it, which creates a tight connection of the crowns that does not allow air and moisture to pass through.

Among the shortcomings of such material, the preservation of wood defects that can exist inside the log, and the obligatory time for shrinkage, as it is inherent in all types of wooden structures, are noted.

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of double-timber houses from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-rise Country".

Glued laminated timber

This option has a calibrated section, the connecting surfaces are made in the form of a comb or a spike. Sometimes it is given the shape of a rounded log - a D-beam. Outwardly, the wall made of it looks like a natural log wall, which is now very popular.

A house made of glued laminated timber is much faster ready for use, but it is important that the lamellas are glued together with high-quality glue

This material is made from individual wooden plates, they are glued together with a special glue under pressure. Has a number good points, namely:

A well-finished surface has a finished look, does not require additional finishing. The presence of locks creates a dense wall without gaps.

The design of the bar eliminates warping, it does not crack and is not subject to deformation during operation.

The constructed building does not experience shrinkage. This significantly reduces the construction time.

Flaws:

The high price of the material, in comparison with conventional timber.

The glue included in the timber makes it less environmentally friendly.

The microclimate in the house will be different from the conditions that arise in the present wooden building. In houses made of glued wood, ventilation must be done

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of building houses from double timber. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Beam LVL

The technology of its production is similar to the production of glued beams. Only the material used for it differs. For manufacturing, veneer is taken from various trees, 3 mm thick. In adjacent layers of veneer, the direction of the fibers coincides.

Veneered timber is quite expensive at a cost, it is often used for individual components of the building

It's durable and flexible material but very expensive. It is used to perform individual structures at home. In most cases, building an entire house out of it is unprofitable.

Which timber is better for building a house should be determined taking into account the requirements for it and the availability of material resources from the developer. A well-dried and properly processed ordinary planed timber will serve no worse than expensive glued material.

Video description

About the features of the LVL beam and its use in construction, see the following video:

Types of timber connection

When building a log house, you have to connect individual elements when crossing at an angle or when the length of the elements is insufficient. Several types of connections are used.

The most popular and convenient compounds are with and without residue, in a cup or in a tooth.

Connecting with the remainder

One way connection. One side of the beam is cut across the element, the width of the cut is equal to the width of the attached element. This is the easiest and most commonly used method.

The connection of the bars with the remainder is used more often than others, and the fastening of such a bar is more reliable.

A double-sided lock requires making cuts at the top and bottom of the bar. Their depth is a quarter of the thickness of the element. The use of this technology creates a high-quality connection, but will require the work of experienced carpenters.

The four-way connection is the most complex and the most reliable and accurate. Cuts are made on all sides of the bar. The building is assembled like a constructor - quickly and efficiently. In this case, all dimensions must be exactly observed, the cuts are made strictly at right angles.

Connection without residue

This species has many variations. Here are the frequently used ones.

Butt connection. It is carried out using studded metal plates, they are fastened with nails or staples. For this purpose, connecting keys are also used, which fix the joint well, preventing the bars from moving and turning.

In this case, it is necessary to use additional fasteners, otherwise the house may lead to the side.

It is good to use the connection in the spike. The spike may be in the shape of a triangle or a trapezoid. The root spike is popular. A groove is cut out on one of the bars, a spike of the appropriate size is cut out in the other. With this connection, you can use a heater made of vegetable felt or jute fiber.

The choice of timber thickness for building a house

The range of unified timber sizes has the following values: 100, 150, 200, 250 mm. The main requirement when determining the thickness of the walls of a house is that it must give a certain strength to the structure, have sufficient heat capacity to create favorable climate in the house.

To determine which timber is best for a 150 or 200 mm house, you should know which house you will be building. For a one-story building, a thickness of 150 mm is sufficient. If it still gets done exterior finish or wall insulation, then this is undoubtedly.

For two-story buildings, a stronger and more rigid structure is needed. In this case, a section of 200x200 mm will be justified.

To build a house for seasonal living in a country house or a bathhouse, if they are not insulated, a beam with a section of 150x150 mm is used.

For such a house, for temporary residence, it is enough simple timber medium thickness

If you build a residential building for permanent residence people, it will have to be heated. The walls of such a cobbled house must be insulated, otherwise it will not comply modern requirements on energy saving.

It is known that the thermal conductivity wooden walls little depends on their thickness. The difference between the walls of 150 and 100 mm of timber will be 12% of the heat. From this we conclude that insulated walls can be made thinner.

Video description

How can they differ different types timber:

What to consider when choosing a bar: basic rules

Using the right material is the key to successful construction. This also applies to wooden structures. What we pay attention to when buying it:

Decide in advance which timber to build a house from. One-story house enough material, section 150x150 mm. When erecting two-story structures, use a beam of 200x200 mm.

In the country version, use a simple planed timber, pre-dried in a natural way. Required for residential building glued construction. A beam with a profiled joint, dried in a chamber, is suitable.

Attention should be paid to the quality of the product, it must have the correct symmetrical sectional shape, there should be no irregularities and curvature. Select grade A or AB.

Use profile D timber instead of rounded logs.

Types of profiled timber for a country house

Conclusion

The choice of material must be determined at the design stage, taking into account all emerging situations. Don't overspend by purchasing cheap material for a residential building in which you will live permanently. Modern quality wooden beam will allow you to build your dream home.