The choice of bricks for fence posts with the best decorative and operational properties. Brick fence post: calculations and masonry technology Brick fence construction

For many centuries, people have been trying to protect their home from encroachment. To do this, he builds fences. In the modern world, erecting a fence, an attempt to create your own world, to isolate yourself from everyone else. The fence can be anything. For some, it is enough to build it from a wooden palisade, while others need a high concrete fence.

A brick fence can be considered a modern reliable fence that meets all the most demanding requirements. In addition, it can serve as a great addition to a stone house, or as a decoration of the site. As one option, a fence with brick posts can be used.

The main advantages of brick fences

Even before the start of construction, you need to understand that this is a very expensive pleasure that requires serious costs. Therefore, first evaluate your financial capabilities. You should not start work on the construction of a fence without having enough funds, otherwise you risk getting a long-term construction.

Despite the high cost, a brick fence often attracts owners of country houses. Let's take a look at exactly what:

High degree of security. Such a fence can protect you from uninvited guests. If the main function of the fence is protective, then it should be about two meters high, built on the basis of a high-quality strip foundation.
Long service life. Such a fence can last up to 30 years, despite the constant impact of various natural phenomena (heat, rain, frost, snow, wind).
An interesting design decision. Types of brick fence can be different. An unusual brick fence not only performs a protective function, but also an aesthetic one. It can be decorated with lamps, hedges, or handmade forged items. It can also be fences with brick pillars.
Gives an idea of the financial solvency of the owner. The construction of such a fence is a very costly business, which of course not everyone can afford. Therefore, how to build a brick fence is up to you.

Types of fences

Brick, as a universal building material, allows you to build various types of fences. It is important to decide how to build a brick fence. The following options are possible:

Fencing made using a conventional block. Pillars and sections are made of such material, and then they are additionally finished. You can use the usual jointing, or trim with some kind of facing material.
Fence lined with facing block. When using such material, decorative types (torn, bassoon, clinker and others) with a violation of geometry can be used for the construction of supporting pillars. See the photo of the fence made of facing bricks.
Fence with various inserts. In this case, columns are laid out in such blocks. And sections can be made using various building materials (wood, forged elements, profiled sheets).

In any case, everyone decides on their own how to lay out a brick fence.

Brick classification

It is the most popular building material. Each structure has its own type. Before deciding which brick to choose for the fence, we will study in detail its classification. Depending on the composition of the material, it is divided:

ceramic, the composition of which necessarily includes clay;
silicate, made on the basis of sand and lime.

Depending on the application, the material is classified as:

construction, used for the construction of foundations, walls, ceilings;
facing, used as a finishing material, but can also be used for construction.

It is considered an ideal material for decoration. Such material, thanks to modern technologies, has a number of advantages:

high reliability and durability;
frost resistance;
wide range of colors;
variety of shapes and sizes (textured and shaped).

Used for cladding facades of buildings. Shaped - used to decorate window openings, cornices and other architectural elements.

To decide which brick is best for the fence, you need to get acquainted with the technical characteristics of each.

Produced by firing clay. It is used for the construction of walls, partitions and has the following main characteristics:

high strength (especially in corpulent);
high level of moisture resistance (suitable for building a foundation);
quality and durability;
ecological purity (only natural materials are used for its production).

Prepared by pressing quartz sand, lime and water, followed by firing. Most often it is white. Its disadvantage can be considered low moisture resistance. Therefore, it is not recommended to use silicate for the construction of a foundation, a plinth. The advantages include:

increased strength;
maximum frost resistance;
durability;
natural purity.

Modern technologies allow to produce brick blocks in various colors. This makes it possible to embody many design ideas and finds, to combine not only color shades, but even different colors, achieving the maximum amplification effect.

When deciding which brick to choose for the fence, you need to pay attention to some points:

weather and climatic conditions of the region;
composition of the soil on the land.

Brick for fences is selected so that it goes well with the architectural style of the house, the landscape design of the entire land plot.

For a hedge, it is better to choose a front facing block, but this is a very expensive pleasure. According to all the main characteristics, silicate is suitable for the construction of fences or support posts, in addition, it is much cheaper. Types of brick fences depend on the type of material chosen.

Construction of a fence using silicate and ceramic bricks

To emphasize the individuality of the building, you can build a fence of silicate bricks. This material does not require additional finishing, rather high-quality stitching. It tolerates the effects of low temperatures well, has an increased level of sound insulation.

Now factories produce a wide range of such building material. You can use the traditional white color, which is used for facing masonry.

Such a fence will have a beautiful appearance, a long period of operation and the necessary level of security. A white brick fence has always been considered decorative on the one hand, and durable on the other. White brick fences are considered to be the most budgetary.

Modern technologies allow the production of silicate blocks not only in white, but also in other shades, from sand to gray, as well as red. A very interesting solution is when the posts are made of red block, and the fence is made of white brick.

The ceramic block is subdivided as:

private;
facing;
special.

The ordinary block is used for the construction of the foundation, walls and other structural elements that require finishing. Special brick is used in special conditions. The refractory block belongs to this type. It is used to build stoves, fireplaces, chimneys and chimneys. Acid-resistant bricks also belong to a special type.

Facing brick stands apart in this row. It has a smooth front surface, even color, without any streaks and inclusions. This allows it to be used both for the front finishing of structures, and for construction without finishing, including for the construction of a fence. In particular, fences made of facing bricks are good.

Fences made with a shaped cladding block allow you to use the most complex design projects. The greatest number of options can be applied in the construction of supporting pillars. Due to the "uneven surface" (concave or convex), as well as soft, rounded and beveled corners, it turns out to lay out very complex details.

red brick fence

Red brick is still widespread. This is the classic version. Red brick fences are ideal for any site and various landscape design.

Such material provides scope for the imagination of designers. You can use the block in combination with a different color, as well as in combination with many building materials that fit seamlessly into the structure of a red brick fence.

The red block fence with a rough corrugated surface looks interesting and harmonious. On the one hand, the classic, on the other - an unusual design.

Yellow and brown brick fences

Aesthetically attractive is a fence made of a decorative facade block in a combination of contrasting colors.

The monotonous one-color construction of the fence looks rich, but somewhat dull. For those who appreciate the unusual design of a brick fence, experts recommend choosing a combination of different colors or shades. The combination of yellow and brown colors in various shades is ideal for the construction of a fence. The brown brick fence is a strict, classic structure. Although some decorative elements (forged products, lanterns) will give the building individuality and aesthetic appeal.

You can make pillars of yellow material, and lay out the sections in brown blocks or chocolate.

A fence with a fairly simple design will look no less luxurious. One and a half brick columns and half a brick spans. But due to the contrasting combination of colors, it does not look simple. Dark brown supporting posts, combined with light sections of the fence, look elegant and solid.

If you add to this on the top of the hedge a not very complex decoration of forged patterns with curls, then it will have an expensive and perfect look.

The use of clinker bricks

One of the varieties of the facade block is clinker brick. This is the technical definition of a facing block. They are made from clay of only high quality, with a high content of aluminum. Therefore, the main characteristics of such a material are much higher than those of all the others.

The construction of clinker brick fences has recently become very widespread. And there are reasons for this. Such a fence has several advantages:

Resistant to various influences of a natural nature (dust, moisture). Suffice it to say that clinker has the lowest level of water absorption (no more than 6%).
Does not require additional maintenance, does not crumble.
A wide range of colors, it is easy to match the color of the house.
A large textured variety of the block (rough, corrugated, smooth, rustic).
Suitable for any architectural style of the house, even complement it.
Clinker is good when combined with other types of building materials (wood, metal, plaster).

Since such a block goes well with metal, it can be used to make poles or the basement of the fence, complementing them with handmade forged elements. Inserts of forged elements into clinker brick fences photo.

This type of fence will suit any architectural style from an old estate of the 18-19th century to a modern villa.

You can use this bar to create a single composition. Lay out the fence and walls of the house with the same material. This will look aesthetically pleasing, like the house and clinker fence in the photo above.

decorative brick

Decorative or facade timber is a type of facing, ceramic brick. This building material is of high quality and cost. However, a fence made of this type of blocks is very beneficial for the following reasons:

light weight (much lighter than others) does not create a large load on the supports and the entire structure as a whole;
the material is not subject to combustion;
does not collapse under the influence of moisture and does not fade;
a large selection of different shapes, textures and colors;
significantly improves the external aesthetic perception.

In addition, it can be made of concrete, gypsum or polymeric materials. The different texture of the facade block allows you to make fences with imitation of natural stone or masonry.

Fences made of torn bricks were widely used. A chipped (torn) block has a corrugated surface. The surface of the fence, lined with such material, looks like natural stone. Broken brick fence photo.

The fence, made of a split block, with spoon or poke edges, gives the impression of a fence with masonry. Such a fence made of torn bricks resembles the walls of an old castle.

The decorative bassoon block was widely used. A bassoon brick fence can be described in a nutshell - power and beauty.

Bassoon literally translated from Italian as a bundle of firewood. Masonry with such blocks is associated with beautifully laid out rows. Bassoon brick fences look very glamorous. This facing material is slightly chopped off on one side, so it visually looks like a natural stone with a small chip. Bassoon blocks are produced in several types, with a weight of about 4 kg. It can be used to build a fence or only fence columns. The house and the bassoon brick fence (photo) looks like an old, medieval castle. They exude power and noble majesty.

A chipped block looks like natural stone and weighs a little less than usual (3.8 kg). The combination of an ordinary and an angular bassoon gives the structure an interesting noble look.

Calculation of the need for bricks

Before starting construction, you need to answer one question, how to calculate a brick for a fence? Calculating the number of bricks needed to build a fence is not very difficult. This must be done before construction begins in order to know exactly the need for materials. This is especially important if the fence is completely brick. If there are not enough materials, you will have to buy more and it is not at all necessary that they will match. Even in the same batch there may be blocks with a different shade.

with the help of a consultant in the store or another specialist;
using an online calculator;
making your own budget.

In addition, you need to know what the masonry technology will be and what the brick for the fence will be like.

To build a fence, using a classic red cladding block, you need 110 pieces per 1 sq.m. A fence made from a single hollow block will require about 400 pieces per 1 m3. If a thickened brick is used, then the consumption will be 300 pieces. In the same way, you can calculate the required amount of materials for the construction of the entire structure.

Stages of building a fence

There are two ways to install a fence on the site:

on one's own;
by inviting a team of builders.

If the second method is planned, then you only need to purchase materials and decide how to make a brick fence. Experienced craftsmen will realize all your plans quickly and efficiently. All you have to do is contact a company that specializes in this type of work. Most of these companies have designers and planners. They will tell you how to build a brick fence, offer ready-made standard designs, or create an individual one according to your requests. And some firms will even prepare all the necessary materials themselves.

It is a completely different matter to self-build. Here you are your own designer, designer and builder. The whole process of building a fence can be divided into the following stages:

design. This step is indispensable. First, decide how to make a brick fence, what type it will be, what material? Next, you should draw a plan and calculate the need for materials.
Purchase of materials. It is best to buy them in one place, preferably in a specialized store that has quality certificates. Purchase materials with a small margin.
Performing markup. Mark the installation sites of the extreme supports, and then draw a line of the proposed fence. Determine the location of the gate, gates, length and number of spans. Install pegs at the locations of the supports and stretch a cord between them.
Preparatory work. It is necessary to clear and level the area under the fence.
Building a foundation. Its depth and power depends on the type of structure chosen.
Construction of a fence. Implementation of supporting pillars and spans (sections) of the fence, with constant monitoring of the level and quality of masonry.

For complete information on this topic, see how to build a fence, video.

Conclusion

To decide what material to build a fence from, it is necessary to correctly determine some indicators. What type of material to choose, given all its technical characteristics. And also, what type or style of fencing do you want to see in the end.

To facilitate the choice, use the materials in this article, photo and video data. Study in detail the advantages and disadvantages of various types of bricks, possible options and combinations of different colors, types of materials, types of decor and choose the most suitable option for you.

And let the finished fence perform protective and aesthetic functions for a long time.

Just as a theater begins with a hanger, so does your home begin with a fence, a gate, and a gate. Therefore, of course, if finances allow, it seems to me that the construction of a fence should be approached thoroughly. The most reliable, durable and always modern material is brick. As the author correctly writes, you need to evaluate your capabilities and, accordingly, choose a brick and calculate the amount. I chose a red brick fence with a brown border, it looks solid!

Perhaps there is no other type of fence that can be compared with brick in terms of strength, beauty and durability. Therefore, the desire of many owners of personal plots to build a brick fence with their own hands is so great. Let's take a very detailed look at the process of erecting such a fence, compare all its disadvantages and advantages.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick fence

Like any other building material, brick has its pros and cons. More about each of them.
Advantages of a brick fence:

Reliable protection against penetration into the territory of unauthorized persons.
Resistant to any external influences (wind, snow loads, precipitation, mechanical stress, etc.).
Attractive appearance.
Durable.
Does not require special maintenance during its operation.
It is prestigious, indirectly indicating the wealth of its owner.

Among the shortcomings, the following can be distinguished:

A large amount of land work during the construction.
Large consumption of material (brick), its high cost.
A large expenditure of time and effort on the construction of such a fence, the complexity of the construction scheme itself.
Difficulties with transportation and its relatively high cost.

As you can easily see from the above, you will have to choose between the expenditure of effort, time and money and the subsequent quality.

The basic principles of building a brick fence

A brick fence consists of two main parts - supporting pillars located at a certain estimated distance from each other and walls (spans) between these pillars.

Pillars and walls are usually erected on a strip reinforced foundation, under which a trench is dug. Holes are dug under the reliable fixation of the pillars. After the foundation is built, the pillars are built first, and then the walls.

What materials will be required

To build a brick fence with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

Brick

You can use both ordinary ceramic and facing, figured, etc. If ordinary brick is used, then most likely you will have to spend money on plastering it after erecting the fence to get a more aesthetic appearance. Brick sizes can also be very different.

Usually single bricks are used. When buying, you should also remember that approximately 5% of the bricks will have to be bought in excess of the calculation due to the possible brick breakage.

Steel pipes

Pipes of square or round section with a diameter of approximately 60 mm for the reinforcement of supporting brick pillars. The length of the pipes depends on the depth of their immersion in the ground and on the height of the pillars. The usual height of the pillars is about 2-3 m, excluding the height of the caps. Then the length of the pipes will be approximately 3-3.5 m.

Common grades used are M200-300 (classes B15-22.5). Required for the construction of a monolithic foundation, as well as for pouring into the inner part of the pillars. Concrete can be purchased ready-made, or you can prepare it yourself right at the construction site from cement, sand and crushed stone or gravel.

Formwork materials.

Various boards, their parts and pieces, new or used. Required for foundation construction. You can rent ready-made formwork if finances allow.

fittings

for the construction of the reinforcement frame of the foundation, knitting wire. Required to reinforce the foundation. It includes smooth reinforcement (for vertical and transverse reinforcement) with a usual diameter of about 6-8 mm, as well as ribbed, main reinforcement for longitudinal reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The exact diameters depend on the calculation based on the data on the dimensions of the designed fence.

Sand

It will be required for the manufacture of masonry mortar, as well as for the construction of a sand cushion under the sole of the foundation. Fine quarry yellow sand is not suitable for all these purposes. River sand or any other coarse or medium-grained sand that does not contain clay is suitable.

Cement

Required for the manufacture of masonry mortar. Portland cement is usually used. You can do without cement by purchasing a ready-made masonry mixture from the store in advance, although it will, of course, cost more than making it yourself. This article assumes that the masonry mix will be purchased ready-made by the owner.

rubble

It may be necessary if it is planned to make crushed stone bedding under the sole of the fence foundation.

Tool for the job

Shovel- for digging trenches. In some cases, for example, if the length of the fence and the depth of the foundation are large, you can use an excavator.
Hand drill- for drilling holes for the installation of support pillars. If there is no drill, then you can use an ordinary shovel, although it is not so easy to dig a relatively narrow hole with more or less vertical walls with a depth of 1 meter or more.
Welding machine- is required if the pillars are additionally welded to the reinforcement cage, and also if it is decided to connect the reinforcement bars by welding.
Measuring instruments- construction plumb line, level, theodolite to control the evenness of the construction site, the verticality and horizontality of the location of the supporting pillars and walls of the fence.
Masonry tools- this includes a trowel (trowel), a hammer, a wooden lath and a tool for jointing seams.
Waterproofing compounds or roofing material- will be required for waterproofing the foundation. Instead, you can use bitumen or bituminous mastics.

Calculation (example) of the amount of building materials required for construction. Before you start building a fence, you must first draw up its drawing, and then calculate the required amount of consumables.

Below is an example of the calculation of all basic materials. Today, such calculations can be made directly on construction sites on the Internet using various online calculators. However, to check the correctness of the calculation, it will not be superfluous to manually estimate the flow rate.

Fence Options

Plot: rectangular 20 x 30 = 600 m (6 acres).
Gate: one piece 3m long.
Gate: one piece 1 m long.
Fence span height: 2 m.
Fence spans: 1 brick.
Pillar masonry: 2 bricks.
Used brick for pillars: 250x120x65 mm.
Used brick for spans: 250x120x65 mm.
Used brick for plinth: 250x120x65 mm.
Seam thickness: 0.01 m.
The height of the pillars, excluding caps: 2.2 m.
Span length: 4 m.
Trench depth: 0.7 m.
Trench width: 0.5 m.
Foundation height from the ground: 0.1 m.
Sand cushion: 0.15 m.
Crushed stone pillow: 0.2 m.
Basement: yes.
Plinth height: 0.3 m.
Basement masonry: 2 bricks.
Support pipe diameter: 0.06 m.

Calculation

Let 0.25 * 2 = A (twice the length of a single brick), 0.25 * 0.25 = B (area occupied by two single bricks), 0.01 * 4 = C (quadruple the height of the masonry joint), 0.065 * 4 \u003d D (quadruple the height of a single brick), 0.065 * 0.01 \u003d E (thickness of the masonry inter-end joint), 0.065 + 0.01 \u003d F (height of the brick, taking into account the masonry joint).

Then we have the following.

The total length of the fence will be 2 * 20 + 30 * 2 - 1 - 3 = 96 m.
Number of sections: 96 / (4 + 0.01 + A) = 21.3 pcs.
Number of poles: 22 pcs.
Number of pipes for reinforcement of pillars: 22 pcs.
The amount of sand for backfilling: 96 * 0.15 * 0.5 \u003d 7.2 cubic meters. m.
The amount of crushed stone for bedding: 96 * 0.2 * 0.5 \u003d 9.6 cu. m.
The length of the metal supports for the reinforcement of the pillars: 2.2 * 3 / 2 = 3.3 m.
The depth of the pits for the installation of pillars: 3.3 - 2.2 \u003d 1.1 m.
The amount of concrete for the foundation: (0.7 - 0.15 - 0.2 + 0.1) * 0.5 * 96 = 21.6 cu. m;
Amount of concrete for supports: (0.01 - 0.12 - 0.12 + A) * 2 = 0.54; 0.06 * 2 * 3.14 / 4 = 0.094; 0.54 - 0.094 = 0.446; 2.2 - 0.1 = 2.1; 0.446 * 2.1 * 22 = 20.6 cu. m;
The amount of concrete in total: 21.6 + 20.6 \u003d 42.2 cubic meters. m.
Brick for plinth (total): 96 * (D + C) * 394 * (A + 0.01) = 5787 pcs.
Span brick (total): (0.065 * B) + (0.01 * B) = 0.0040625 + 0.000625 = 0.0046875; 96 - 22 * 0.51 = 84.78; 84.78 * 0.25 * (2 - 0.3) = 36.0315; 2 * 36.0315 / 0.0046875 = 15373 pieces
Brick for pillars (total): (2.2 - 0.1) / F * 6 * 22 = 3696 pcs.
Total bricks: (15373 + 3696 + 5787) * 0.05 + (15373 + 3696 + 5787) = 26099 pcs.
Plinth mortar: (C + D) * 96 * (0.01 + A) * 0.24 = 3.53 cu. m.
Span mortar: 0.01 * B + 0.25 * E = 0.000625 + 0.0001625 = 0.0007875; 15373 / 2 * 0.0007875 = 6.053 cu. m.
Post mortar: (0.12 * 6 * E) + (0.51 * 0.51 - B) * 0.01 = 0.000468 + (0.2601 - 0.0625) * 0.01 = 0 .002444; (2.2 - 0.1) / F * 22 * 0.002444 = 1.51 cu. m.
Masonry mortar in total: 6.053 + 1.51 + 3.53 = 11.1 cu. m.

Preliminary, earthworks and construction works

All foreign objects and things should be removed from the territory of the future development in advance so that they do not interfere during the execution of work.
The area is cleared of debris and leveled. Evenness can be controlled using a level, theodolite, and similar instruments.
Stakes are installed along the perimeter of the site in two rows. The distance between the rows should be equal to the width of the future trench under the foundation. A rope is pulled through the stakes.
Further, with the help of pegs, places are marked for the installation of support pillars. Now you should dig a trench and holes for the pillars in the marked area.
Pits can be dug either manually with a shovel or with an ordinary hand drill. An excavator can be used to dig a trench, especially if the length of the fence is quite large. The depth of the pits is approximately 1 m, and the trenches are at least 0.5-0.6 m, and depends on the height of the pillars and spans, the type of masonry, the brand of bricks, the type of soil and other factors.
Further, a small layer (0.1-0.15 m) of wet coarse-grained or medium-grained sand is laid on the bottom of the pits and trenches as a sand cushion under the foundation and carefully compacted. It is possible to lay a small layer of crushed stone or gravel on top of the sand layer to prevent stagnation and drain water from under the soles of the future foundation.

Formwork construction

Further, formwork shields are knocked down from the boards and then they are placed along both vertical walls of the trench along its entire length. Shields are always knocked down from the side that will be directed to the trench wall. It is important that the front side of the formwork panels (the one that will be directed into the trench) is even.
Large gaps in the formwork panels are unacceptable. They should be sealed in advance with slats. The height of the formwork should slightly exceed the upper limit of the future foundation.
The shields installed in the trench are knocked down by transverse boards and supported from the outside in order to fix them in a strictly vertical position along the trench before pouring with concrete. So we get a high-quality brick fence.

Construction of a reinforced frame for the foundation and installation of pillars

Armoframe is made of smooth and ribbed reinforcement by tying the intersections of longitudinal, transverse and vertical rods with knitting wire.

Instead of knitting, welding can be used - it is faster and more convenient, but less effective due to the lower strength of the reinforcing cage obtained later (weak bending work under the action of vertical forces).

Longitudinal rods are arranged in two or three rows in each horizontal plane. The number of planes is two or three, depending on the height of the foundation and on the calculated load on it. The distance between nodes should be approximately 200 mm.

Next, the made armoframe is immersed inside the trench. Posts are placed in the holes. Check their verticality in all directions: the pillars must have a strictly perpendicular orientation relative to the plane of the earth's surface. In order to fix the posts in the right position before pouring concrete, it will be good to support them temporarily with stones, sticks and other available materials. Another possible option is to tie or weld them to the reinforcement cage.

pouring concrete

Now the concrete mixture should be poured into the trench and into the pits. Concrete can be used both purchased and personally prepared. It is important to pour all the concrete at one time in order to obtain good strength for the entire foundation. It is known that concrete gains strength gradually, reaching 40% of its maximum strength on the 7th day.

During all these days, the monolith should be protected from possible precipitation by wrapping it with a waterproof film. The resulting foundation must be waterproofed by any modern means, for example, penetrating waterproofing, bitumen, etc.

Laying spans, pillars and plinth

Brickwork begins with the construction of a basement, and if it is not provided for by the project, then, as a rule, from pillars. The plinth is made on the basis of a foundation tape of 1.5, 2 or 2.5 bricks. The main purpose of the fence base is a beautiful appearance.

The height of the plinth is usually about 300 mm, that is, 4 rows of single bricks, taking into account the masonry joints. Masonry for pillars is usually used in 1.5 or 2 bricks. The idea of \u200b\u200blaying pillars boils down to the following. Above the plinth, in the marked places, brick pillars are laid out with a height determined by the calculation. Metal pillars are covered with bricks on all sides. It turns out the following design: a metal pillar inside and brickwork that forms the outer sides of the pillars.

After the masonry is completed, concrete is poured inside the brick pillars, and the pillar is covered from above with a special (usually metal) cap that prevents atmospheric precipitation from entering the pillar.

You can either make your own caps or buy ready-made ones in any color and configuration. Laying of spans is usually done in 0.5, 1 or 1.5 bricks. The span is built directly on the plinth or on the foundation if there is no plinth. The height of the fence for laying 1.5 ordinary bricks is usually limited to 2.2 m, so for higher spans, laying should be done in 2 bricks. The height of the pillars usually exceeds the height of the spans by about 10%. From above, if desired, the span, as well as the pillars, can be protected from precipitation with a cap.

General masonry principles

Pre-wetted bricks are laid on the masonry mortar, previously applied with a trowel to the masonry base. With the help of it, excess mortar, which is formed during the laying of bricks, is also removed.

The horizontal and vertical arrangement of the bricks is checked using the building level, which must be constantly applied to the bricks that have just been laid on the mortar.

If any brick deviates from the vertical, lies unevenly, then its position is corrected by tapping on it with a hammer with a plastic or rubber tip.

To correct the position of several adjacent bricks, a rail is usually used, which is tapped with such a hammer.

When building a span, it is most convenient to control the horizontality of the rows of bricks by stretching a rope (cord) between adjacent pillars at heights approximately every 5 vertical rows of bricks. All masonry is made with obligatory dressing of seams.

If facing brick is used, if additional finishing of the brick fence is not expected, then it is advisable to do the jointing during laying. The stitching always looks good. Colored stitching looks even more beautiful, which is done by adding dyes to the masonry mortar.

As you have seen, a brick fence with your own hands is a rather complicated, painstaking and expensive process. Nevertheless, you can do all the work yourself without involving construction teams, but you need a very serious, careful attitude to business at all stages of construction, and then you will get a fence that will last you for many, many years.

The land is traditionally surrounded by a fence. The fence is made from different materials. One option is a fence with a base of brick pillars with spans of corrugated board, forged elements, wooden picket fence or brickwork. Such a fence looks solid, it reliably protects the territory and is decorative with its finish.

The brickwork of the pillars is quite simple for self-production, if you familiarize yourself with the technology for erecting such pillars. Consider the details of this type of construction work.

Peculiarities

A fence with brick pillars provides the necessary level of security from unwanted intrusions into the estate. Corrugated or masonry spans supported by brick pillars can add impermeability and reliability to the protective function of the fence.

Forged and wooden spans will give external lightness to the structure, while maintaining the necessary level of isolation from the external environment.

Brick supports are durable and weather resistant. They are sufficiently resistant to increased payload to install massive gates with automatic sliding or mechanical swing devices.

To extend the life of the pillars, they need to be covered with caps made of metal or concrete. It should be borne in mind that concrete caps have a greater variety of shapes, but they themselves are destroyed by changes in temperature and humidity.

Metal caps better isolate the brickwork from moisture.

Fencing on brick pillars, while providing a sufficient level of protection, is more affordable than a completely brick fence. Types of bricks, masonry pattern and span material give a lot of room for decorative creativity in the design of such a fence. Brick poles can be safely equipped with an electrical cable to organize the lighting of individual poles, which will be convenient for the owners and serve as an additional decor.

Types of structures

To build a fence with brick supports, you need to decide on the type and height of the structure. The optimal height of the supports is chosen about two meters, then the pillar is laid out with a width of 1.5 bricks, together with the seams, this is equal to 38 centimeters.

If necessary, you can increase the height to 3-4 meters, then it is better to lay the masonry in two or more bricks. In this case, the size of the column will be about 50 by 50 centimeters. The span width ranges from 2.5 to 6 meters, the dimensions are selected according to the relief or according to the composition of the fence.

The type of foundation depends on the type of construction: tape or point. For spans of lighter materials, a point foundation is chosen for brick columns, for heavy ones, a strip foundation.

Spans of corrugated board - the most common option.

Advantages:

Such a fence has an external conciseness and ease of installation.
You can choose the desired color scheme.
With such spans, geometric caps look beautiful.
Easy to install gate.

Under this type of fence, a strip foundation is made. You can stop at point supports, but wear resistance and decorative qualities will be reduced.

For a fence with forged inserts, you can also use the first and second versions of the supports. Of course, forging gives the fence artistic value and emphasizes the well-being of the owners. A strip foundation with several rows of bricks will give solidity to the fence. The airiness of the structure appears when the strip foundation is abandoned, but the functions of durability, reliable protection and decorativeness are preserved.

The fence can be completely lined with brick or torn decorative stone, such fences are made on a reinforced foundation, they reliably isolate the territory of land ownership. For a decorative effect, combined fences are performed.

After choosing the type of fence, proceed to the selection of material.

Material selection

The material for spans is chosen according to the degree of protection required: for better insulation - profiled sheet or brick, for a decorative effect - metal forging, in rural farmsteads a wooden or metal picket fence has proven itself well as protection from cold winds and unwanted intrusions.

The material of the fence should be in harmony with the architecture of the outbuildings and the general concept of the design of the site. Classical mansions look harmoniously with wrought iron or stone fences. It is better to enclose an ethnic-style house with a fence using a wooden picket fence. In areas where poultry or other animals are kept, solid corrugated fences will be optimal.

In modern minimalist trends, it is better to use a fence with a minimum of decor. Simple and graceful. Such fences are decorated with spans of special glass or plastic.

Brick for posts is selected based on the overall design of the fence. For the first two or three rows, an ordinary clay brick is required, then a hollow one or the same as in the bottom row is used. To enhance the decorative effect, the columns are laid out with clinker bricks or facing bricks of the desired color in various combinations.

Embossed brick gives more expressiveness to the architecture of the fence. Decorative trim can be applied only on the front side of the fence, and the inside can be left in the form of a simple brickwork. This will provide significant savings.

By the number of pillars, steel pipes are purchased, which will become a vertical axis for reinforcing brickwork. It should be noted that in the pillars for gates and gates, supporting reinforcement is purchased with a reinforced profile. Reinforcement will be required to strengthen the foundation, its quantity is calculated based on the need for a tape or point location.

Building fillers will be needed: cement, sand, crushed stone or expanded clay. It will be necessary to stock up on boards for the manufacture of formwork. Since the brick absorbs moisture very well, and when it freezes, it destroys the structure of the material, all brick structures will have to be protected from soil moisture, so waterproofing material will be needed.

The calculation of the amount of necessary materials is carried out according to the length of the fence, the step of the brick supports and their size.

For a standard column of one and a half bricks 2 meters high, 110 bricks are required.

Laying technology

Sequencing:

The first step is to mark the contour of the fence with twine. In places of future supports, pegs are driven in. For a pile foundation, according to the marks with pegs, using a drill, a hole is made 30-35 centimeters wide and 80 centimeters deep for sandy soil, and for clay soil - up to a freezing layer plus 20 centimeters.

In central Russia, it is best to maintain a depth of 1 meter or 1 meter 20 centimeters. A bucket of rubble is poured into this pit and tamped down. Formwork is made according to the diameter of the pit, it is possible to roll a tube of the desired diameter from the roofing material. A steel pipe is inserted into this formwork and poured with a cement mixture.

A mixture of cement and sand is made in a ratio of 1: 5 or 1: 6; for plasticity, you can add a little liquid soap. The solution should not be liquid and not dry, so water is added gradually. The upper part of the foundation is poured into the formwork along the width of the column. For a strip foundation, a trench 50 cm deep and 40 cm wide is dug between the posts.

After pouring the foundation, brickwork is started no earlier than 2 weeks later. The surface of the foundation is covered with a waterproofing material so that the brick does not absorb moisture from the soil. Here you can apply roofing material, but a more modern material is bitumen-based waterproofing.
Embedded corners, eyelets for a gate canopy are welded onto a steel pipe, or transverse pipes are welded to secure the span material - picket fence, profiled sheet or forging.

The next stage of work is brickwork. Here you need to carefully consider the quality of the solution, its density. For testing, put a little mortar on the brick, it should not spread. Bricks are laid according to the masonry pattern with bandaging through a row around a steel pipe. The first and second rows are laid with ordinary full bricks, for the following you can use lightweight hollow ones.

A layer of cement mortar 1 centimeter thick is applied to the waterproofing, and bricks are laid on this layer, each brick is tapped for compaction with a rubber mallet. For uniform adhesion to the mortar, the brick is pre-dipped in water. It is better to measure each row with a tape measure, since a shift of even a few millimeters of each row can lead to a skew of the post or expansion by several centimeters.

Each side should be regularly checked with a level to avoid deviation from the vertical.

If desired, you can make a decorative finish on the seams, usually a dye or textured crumb is added to the cement mortar, and after the masonry is finished, the seams are separately coated. This gives accuracy and completeness to the entire building.
After laying the entire column, the middle part around the pipe is filled with mortar, it can be filled with gravel and poured with a more liquid solution. The top is again covered with a waterproofing layer.

A cap made of metal or concrete is fixed to the top of the structure. Manufacturers offer a wide variety of shapes, colors and materials for the manufacture of such caps. A simple rectangular cap can be made from a sheet of metal yourself according to a pattern. The color is selected according to the color of the fence design.

If the project provides for combined masonry, then you must carefully select the dimensions of the main and finishing bricks. If the brick pillar is finished with natural stone, then after the masonry has dried, a finishing layer is applied.
The next stage consists in hanging the material of the span: profiled sheet, metal grating, picket fence or laying out the span with decorative bricks.
The final type of work is the installation of gates and gates, installation of lighting.

A few tips for doing masonry will help you do it efficiently even for a novice master:

To ensure that the seams between the rows of bricks are of the same thickness, a metal bar of the desired diameter is laid along the edge. Cement mortar is leveled on it, bricks are laid on top, tapped with a rubber mallet, then the rod is removed and laid on the next row.

Fencing in the form of a solid fence is a reliable rear of any site. One of the most reliable, strong and attractive is the laying of a brick fence. Masonry can be done by hand. Many begin to install such a fence without seeking help from professionals. It is enough to get acquainted with the characteristics of the material, its types and, having chosen the method of laying bricks, get to work.

Versions

A variety of embossed brickwork includes:

to get the shape of a Christmas tree, you need to lay out the bricks at an angle of 45 degrees to the wall line (axial). They can be made protruding or recessed inward;
imitating the shape of a cornice: the last rows must be extended with a ladder beyond the wall plane;
it is done, like a herringbone, only without a ledge, and dressing is performed between oblique rows;
a tuck is when a brick (one or more) or a brick row extends beyond the wall plane;
to make the shape of a dome, you need to build a pyramidal shape on the last rows after the shape of the cornice or tuck;
honeycomb imitation: you need to make gaps (up to 1/3 of the size of a brick), and not seams between bricks (in a spoon row);
the hedgehog is made like the grid, but the brick corners will extend beyond the wall surface.

fencing elements

There may be arched masonry (gaps are laid out in this form). Empty glades are filled with any material (lattice, stone, etc.).

Carved curly - a rare occurrence. For its implementation, it is necessary to make a carving. Then, in order to get drawings with a certain relief, this thread is laid out according to the drawing in the pillars. The cost of this option starts from 28 rubles / piece. Brick carving can lead to gouges. If this happens, then you need to fill them with any waterproof agent (for example, combine brick dust with building glue).

Preparatory work

It is important to calculate future loads, make a foundation project, calculate the necessary materials, and then start laying.

Work progress map

Preparation is an important step in any business. After all, the operational life of the future design directly depends on the choice of material and compliance with the recommendations. Before direct brick you will need:

Select the parameters of the future structure (, thickness, shape), determine its main function (protection from burglars, from prying eyes, decorative function).
Prepare a project (professional drawing with scale or amateur sketch).
Determine the type of brick.
Calculate the required amount of consumables. Be sure to count the extra headroom (about 10 percent).
Purchase materials.
Prepare tools.

Needs to be reinforced

For this you will need:

bricks;
grid;
fittings;
wire;
waterproofing;
masonry mixture (we make it ourselves from water, plasticizer, sand and cement, or we buy it ready-made);
slag or rubble;
large capacity for the mixture (if there is no concrete mixer);
several shovels;
various masters;
tamper;
bucket;
kapron thread;
centimeter;
level;
hammers;
Bulgarian.

Fence installation

To obtain a solid structure, columns (columns) are constructed at the same distance along the length of the entire foundation. The laying of such bricks is installed in the corners, near. The characteristics of the structure, the soil and the relief of the site are taken into account. The gaps between the columns can be different - from 2 to 6 m.

Making a fence laying

Technology is simple. First of all, we do the markup. Then we start pouring the foundation. Then we lay the brick.

For successful work, you should know the features of the material, follow all the rules of masonry, take into account the nuances.

In the village

markup

Mounting diagram

Let's get started:

At the bottom we place a layer of sand (about 15 cm thick), we compact it.
We install formwork, for columns - reinforcement.
Fill the trench with concrete.
We remove the formwork after 2 weeks.
When it finally gets stronger (in a month), we begin to lay a brick fence.

masonry

After waiting for the foundation to dry completely, we begin to build the fence canvas. For even brickwork, we stretch the twine or thread (using a level).

Drawing for the construction of the fence

We start the process:

Without a bonding mixture, we put the first row (on a dry foundation). Such manipulation will allow you to calculate the required number of bricks for one row. Find out if halves are needed.
The process itself begins with the laying of a brick base. Its width should be slightly wider than the future fence, but narrower. It is allowed to lay out such a base with ordinary brick (regardless of the fact that the further brick will be different). The main task of the base is to smooth out uneven terrain.
Having prepared the masonry mortar, we lay, using a trowel, the first row of bricks directly on the foundation (its base).
From above, we cover the foundation and the finished basement with waterproofing (to choose from, whether it is roofing material or aquaizol).
We continue to build the wall. We take into account the presence of curly protrusions. It can be niches, flower beds. Don't forget about the support columns.
When erecting brick pillars for a fence, we use metal pipes or fittings (should be already installed). They need to be surrounded by ring rows. When the columns are erected, we fill the gaps, as well as the voids between the metal and the walls of the columns. At the end of all work, we cover the columns with special (curly) ones.
We observe accurate dressing of seams. They should all be of the same thickness around the entire perimeter of the canvas and without voids. The ideal width is 10 mm. We monitor the displacement of vertical seams. An offset of not less than 1/3 of the width or length of the brick in relation to each row is allowed.
We make spans between the columns in the main ways: chain dressing (symmetrical masonry, where 2 lower bricks overlap with 1 upper one in the center of the seam) or wild (asymmetric, joints should not match). The grid is laid in every 4th or 5th row (to increase the strength of the structure).

Drawing and section for installation of the foundation

A properly built brick fence will serve for decades without any complaints, providing reliable protection against uninvited guests and weather disasters. With the construction of this solid building, you can handle it on your own. Read the provided guide and get started.

Work set

Bricks will be laid on cement mortar. You can cope with its preparation yourself: mix a portion of cement with three portions of sand and add water until a plastic viscous mass is obtained. If desired, add a plasticizer to the mixture - it will extend the life of the masonry. If the budget allows, instead of a home-made mortar, you can use a special ready-made mixture for brickwork - it's faster and more convenient.

Selection and calculation of bricks

The fence can be laid out from different types of bricks.

Each option has its own characteristics, namely:

red brick will need to be plastered after masonry is completed. However, often red brick fences remain unplastered according to the design intent of the owners;
facing brick allows you to imitate a variety of materials and does not need finishing;
frost-resistant brick will allow you to get a fence of the highest quality with an extended service life.

Choose the type of brick, focusing on your preferences and budget.

It is very simple to calculate the required amount of building material, but for this you need to know the total area of \u200b\u200bthe future fence. The dependence is as follows: when laying walls in 1 brick, it takes about 100 building elements to build 1 m 2 of a wall, and about 200 pieces with double laying.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to determine the desired height and thickness of the fence. If the fence is built solely for decorative purposes, it can be built in half a brick, placing the elements with a long edge along the fence. When building in a whole brick, products can be laid out with the long side across the fence.

If the fence will play a protective role, it is better to build it in 1.5-2 bricks. Choose the height of the structure yourself. It can vary over a fairly wide range - from 50 cm to 3.5 m or more.

Name	Average density, kg/m3	Porosity, %	Frost resistance grade	Strength grade	Color
Brick solid	1600-1900	9	15-50	75-300	red
Hollow brick	1000-1450	6-8	15-50	75-300	light brown to dark red
Hollow brick "super efficient"	1100-1150	6-10	15-50	50-150	shades of red
Brick facing	1300-1450	6-14	27-75	75-250	white to brown
Brick facing glazed or engobed	1300-1450	6-14	27-75	75-250	any

To make the finished fence more stable and rigid, it is erected not in solid masonry, but in the form of pillars with piers between them. Usually, the pillars are laid out with a 2.5-6-meter step, in accordance with the chosen thickness and height of the walls. Additional brick pillars must be laid out in places where gates and gates are arranged.

Decide on all of the above points and prepare a fence drawing indicating the exact dimensions of each structural element. The drawing will allow you to accurately calculate the required amount of materials and better navigate when performing masonry.

Prices for building and facing bricks

Building and facing bricks

Let's start laying out the foundation. To do this, use a tape measure, rods and rope.

We drive pegs in the corners and along the walls of the future trench in increments of up to 1 m. We pull the rope between the rods. At the same stage, we mark the places for arranging pillars, gates and gates.

We carefully align all the corners - they must be strictly straight. To check this parameter, we use a square. It is very important to correct all detected shortcomings at the markup stage, because it will be much more difficult to do this in the future.

We make the foundation

Let's start building the foundation.

First step. We dig a trench. We maintain the width 60-70 mm wider than the future masonry. We make at least 80-100 cm in depth - the masonry will weigh quite a lot, so it’s better to be safe. We level the walls and bottom of the pit.

Second step. We fill the bottom of the trench with a 10-centimeter layer of sand. Carefully tamp the pillow. The sand will act as a drainage and shock absorber during seasonal soil movements.

Third step. We install formwork. We expose the boards so that after pouring the concrete, the upper edge of the base is perfectly flat.

Fourth step. We reinforce the foundation. To do this, we connect steel bars with a wire into a grid according to the size of the foundation. We lay the finished mesh on a compacted sand cushion.

Fifth step. We fill the trench. The solution is bought or prepared from a portion of cement, 4-5 portions of gravel, 2-3 portions of sand and water. We carefully level the surface of the fill and pierce it with reinforcement in several places to remove excess air. We give the pour 3-4 weeks to set strength. The formwork can be dismantled at least 10 days after pouring. In the heat, pour concrete with water to prevent cracking.

Fence masonry

Before laying, we dip the bricks in water for about a minute. Due to this, the pores of the material will be filled with water, and it will not take moisture from the solution.

We pre-cover the frozen foundation with waterproofing material. Suitable roofing material or dense polyethylene folded several times.

To make the fence as strong and reliable as possible, we will build a single integral structure, immediately along the entire planned length. There are technologies in accordance with which the pillars are laid out to the full height first, and then the walls, but we will not consider them.

Fence Laying Sequence

The first row is the most important part of the work

Applying the device, using it as a limiter, we apply the mortar to the brick. Can be applied to laid or laid brick, it's more convenient for anyone

First step. . To do this, lay out the perimeter of the future pillar of 4 bricks, leaving free space between them. In the future, we will fill the empty space with reinforcement and fill it with concrete. First, lay out the columns to a height of 3 bricks.

Second step. We lay out the walls between the pillars to a similar height.

Third step. Associate columns with spans. To do this, we simultaneously lay pieces of reinforcement on the span and on the column. As a result, 2 steel rods should go to the piers on both sides of the pole.

Fourth step. We raise the masonry to the height of three more bricks in the same way. Reinforcing again. Further, the laying of pillars and piers can be carried out together.

We work in the same order to the desired height: we put three rows, reinforce, again three rows, again reinforcement, etc.

In order for the masonry to be not only of high quality, but also beautiful, the seams between the bricks must be the same. This is done very simply:

additionally buy a round metal rod;
we lay it on top of the laid out row of masonry - a rod on each long side of the brick.

Choose the diameter of the rod according to the desired thickness of the seam. It is not recommended to make seams thicker than 6 mm.

To facilitate the task, you can fix the bars along the entire length with a cement mortar. After laying out the fourth row of bricks, the lowest bar should be removed and used in the next row.

In conclusion, it remains only to protect the masonry from precipitation and melt water. We do this with the help of ebbs and caps made of sheet metal. We put caps on the posts, and fix the ebbs on the wall section. To fix the mentioned products, we use dowels.

Plastering the fence

First step. Moisturize the walls.

Second step. We apply a thickness of about 1.5 cm.

Third step. Let the applied solution dry for an hour.

Fourth step. We level the plaster with a rail with sharp edges. We leave the finish to dry for two days. Periodically wet the plaster with water so that it does not crack.

Fifth step. After two days, we moisten the plaster again with water and process it with a special grater.