Install a steel bath without supporting the walls. Do-it-yourself steel bath installation. Features of the manufacture of reinforced fasteners

When installing a cast iron bath, as a rule, you do not have to worry about accidentally moving it. But how to strengthen a steel bath so that it stands still, and can it be done at all? It is not easy to achieve complete immobility of a flexible and light container, but it is quite possible, and with your own hands. In this article, we will talk about several methods for strengthening the bath, which can be used both individually and in combination.

How is a steel bath

To figure out how to immobilize a bath, you need to familiarize yourself with its device.

Most often, there are no legs fastening elements on the bath itself. This has its pros and cons. The disadvantage is the lack of a sufficiently rigid fixation of the bowl. If, however, elements of rigid fastening of the legs are provided in the bath, then under the weight of an adult, a steel bowl made of thin metal will bend, and the fastening can damage the enamel.

legs

The manufacturer completes the bath with legs, the quality of which leaves much to be desired, or their design is not conducive to securely fixing the bath. This is not a hopeless situation, as universal self-adhesive feet can be purchased.

This is just one of the measures that will somewhat improve the stability of the bath, and as the only one it can be considered only if the bath will stand apart on legs.

If another way of installing this plumbing fixture is planned, for example on bricks, then the legs will not be needed.

Mounting methods

In the event that the bath is installed separately, a frame can be made under it from a profile or installed on bricks, only then it will be necessary to sheathe the bath from all sides. As a rule, such decisions are not made when creating the original design of a large bathroom.

The most common option for fixing a steel bowl is to attach it to the floor and walls. It is more convenient to do this when the bath is installed between three walls. We will consider several relevant ways to fix this plumbing fixture:

1. Making a brick base.
2. Assembling a frame from a profile.
3. Construction of a podium from brick or foam blocks.
4. Fastening to the wall.

Brick base

Given the high levels of humidity in the bathroom and the considerable weight of the container filled with water, the use of durable and moisture-resistant bricks will be a practical approach to solving the issue of a reliable bathtub installation. Tools will require a minimum - a trowel and a container for mixing the solution.

So that later nothing has to be redone, a certain procedure should be followed.

• It is important to decide at what height the bath will be installed. Many people want to raise it higher, but if the height of the front side is more than 70 cm, then it will be very inconvenient to get out of the bath without an additional step.
• To install the bowl at a standard height, you will need no more than 20 ceramic bricks, 2 buckets of sand and 0.5 buckets of M400 cement.
• You need to have a clear idea of ​​​​where you need to lay the masonry and what height it will be. To do this, it is necessary to install the bathtub on legs in such a position as it will then stand with the siphon installed. It is important to check if there is the required slope towards the drain hole and if necessary adjust the position of the tub using the leg adjustment mechanism.
• In those places where the brick base will be laid, the distance from the bottom to the floor should be measured and recorded. Where the side of the bowl adjoins the wall, you need to outline its position with a simple pencil - this will help you then correctly install the bath.
• Now the container can be taken out.
• Let's prepare the solution. The above components are mixed, after which water is gradually added to the mixture. The solution should be quite soft, but not liquid. To make the mixture more plastic, half of the masonry mortar components can be replaced with tile adhesive. It is more convenient to work with such a solution, and its strength will increase.
• Now let's get down to bricklaying. Let's say that in the front of the bath the distance from the floor to the bottom is 17 cm, and in the back it is 18 cm. The width of the standard product is 70 cm. We need the upper brick not to reach the bottom of the bowl by about 10 mm, and the length of the improvised legs should be less than the width products.
• With a brick height of 7 cm, it is clear that the masonry height will be limited to two rows (7 + 7 = 14 cm).
• The length of the brick is 24 cm, so its consumption per row will be 2.5 pcs. (24+24+12=60 cm).
• To make a bowl, on top of the laid second row, along the edges, you will need to lay another half of the brick (or a quarter - depending on the shape of the bowl).
• 2 days after the mortar securely fastens the brickwork, you can proceed with the installation of the bath.
• Now we need to form a "bed" under the bath. To do this, a layer of cement is applied to the brick racks in such a way that it repeats the shape of the bottom as much as possible. Since the solution will begin to spread under load, the thickness of the applied layer in the center should be at least 2 cm.
• In those places where the bathtub will adjoin the wall, tile adhesive must be applied to its edges, but not stretched along the board. It should be some kind of mound.
• A bath without legs should be laid on the bed prepared for it and pressed firmly against the wall. If tile adhesive has come out, it should be removed as soon as possible by wiping the tub with a damp, but not wet, cloth.
• Check the level of its position so that there is a slope towards the siphon. Straighten it if necessary.
• Under the bathtub there will also be some solution that has fallen off the bed. When it ceases to be liquid, it can be returned to its place. Excess solution must be removed and the floor washed.

If the bath is long, then you should lay out another brick support in the middle of the tank.

Brick supports

If the bath is the same length as the width of the room, then to fix it, you can make brick supports, and then install a bowl on them. Often a combined method is used - both a bed and supports are made.

Corner installation

Instead of making brick supports on the wall, you can fix 2, and preferably 3 corners, and install a bath on them. This method is acceptable only if the walls are made of brick or similar durable material.

You can go the other way, leaving the legs intact, sheathe the bathtub with bricks. Then you need to take care of making an inspection window through which you can get to the siphon. Due to the fact that the steel bowl expands upwards, in those places where the whole brick does not fit, it will need to be cut off. Moreover, in such a way that when tiling, it does not protrude beyond the edge of the side of the steel product.

Wall profile frame

Making a frame from a wall profile for drywall is carried out within a few hours and will help not only sheathe, but also strengthen the already installed bath.

• The floor is outlined along the contour of the bath. This can be done with a plumb line, making marks on the floor.
• If the sheathing will be carried out with plastic panels, then, taking into account their thickness, the mark is shifted inward. When using drywall and tiles for sheathing, it is necessary to take into account not only the thickness of these materials, but also add about 3 mm to the adhesive layer.
• The UD profile is fixed to the floor with dowels, and the frame is made from the CD profile. In order to prevent the bathtub from staggering, the profile should rest against the sides of the bowl.
• Additionally, you can use brackets designed to fasten metal bowls to the wall.

The wall profile is not a durable material, but it will successfully serve as a support for a metal container mounted on legs.

wall mount

You can fix the bathtub more securely by attaching it to the wall. To do this, manufacturers produce a wide variety of fasteners. If the plumbing product stands securely on its legs, then it is enough to attach it to the wall. No matter how the bath is installed, it never hurts to fix it additionally.

Podium making

One of the options for securely fixing a metal bowl is to make a podium for it from bricks, foam blocks, timber, a profile pipe, a metal corner or other building materials.

A multi-level podium in a small bathroom will be inappropriate and inconvenient. If the dimensions of the room allow, then such a podium will not only be a reliable basis for a steel bowl, but also an original addition to the intended design.

Brick is more durable, but it is not always possible to use it in old-built houses due to the low bearing capacity of interfloor floors. The same applies to the frame made of ceramic concrete. Foam blocks and timber are much lighter, but can collapse under the influence of moisture, however, if you follow the recommendations outlined in the article, using the listed building materials, you can make a reliable frame for a steel bath.

Podium of foam blocks or bricks

A single-level podium should be such that the bath enters it and its edges rest against the walls. The installation height is determined by the convenience of using the product. When using foam blocks, they must be treated with moisture-resistant compounds that will prevent the destruction of the material and prevent the fungus from starting.

Timber podium

When using a beam, it must be treated with antifungal impregnation, and twice: once (or twice) the beam is processed, and then the entire structure, especially saw cuts. If the podium is much wider than the bathtub, then thick moisture-resistant plywood is fixed on top, and a hole for the bowl is cut out in it.

When assembling the frame, use only stainless steel screws. The design should turn out to be solid, but it is better to calculate the installation of the bath in such a way that, when immersed in the podium, it rests with its legs on the floor or on stands specially made for this case.

Metal structure

The podium can be made from a corner or profile pipes. It will be very durable and not heavy. The disadvantage of this design can be considered the fact that for its assembly all parts must be welded. In the conditions of an apartment, it is far from always possible to use a welding machine, and a structure welded on the street may not be able to be brought into the bathroom. Here you have to look at the circumstances. Usually there are no problems in the manufacture of a metal frame for installing a bath in it.

If the choice is stopped on a metal product, then the finished structure should be degreased, primed and painted. If possible, the frame should be attached to the wall - this will prevent its accidental displacement. Only after these steps can you begin to install the bath and sheath it with plywood.

A lot of free space in the room is occupied by a two-level podium, but if you make niches in it, then you can store toiletries there.

The article lists the main ways to fix a metal container, but in the comments you can tell about your methods and the nuances that you encountered.

Video

Watch a video about installing a steel bathtub with two walls:

Comfortable living in the house is out of the question. This room is the "face" of each person. Its appearance speaks of the wealth of the family, the style of the owner and his accuracy. Everyone knows that the central place in the bathroom is a bath, which is directly used for taking hygiene procedures.

It is important not only to choose the right one, but also to install the container. Therefore, it is necessary to know how to fix the bath correctly when carrying out repairs in the room. Of course, you can use the services of specialists, but it is quite possible to install the tank yourself.

So, let's consider how modern plumbing, made of different materials, is attached.

Current bath installation methods

The installation method of the bath depends on its location. So, how to fix the bath?

1. Fastening to walls and floors. One of the most common installation methods for corner plumbing. Often also used when placing a bowl in a prepared niche.
2. Floor fixing. In this case, the container is installed at a distance from the walls.

Depending on the type of fasteners used, there are such ways of mounting the container:

• On adjustable or non-adjustable feet. Ideal for fixing cast iron or steel bathtubs, which are often provided with such supports.
• On brickwork. A universal solution for metal baths, which guarantees the stability and reliability of the structure as a whole.
• On adjustable supports or metal structures. This option is often used to install acrylic plumbing.

Let's take a closer look at the most popular ways to properly fix the bath.

Features of mounting a steel bath

A steel bath is an acceptable option for many apartments and houses. Plumbing stores offer a wide range of choices of this product. The choice of capacity parameters directly depends on the area and the wishes of the owners. The standard configuration includes bathtubs measuring 0.75 m by 1.7 m.

When choosing such plumbing, remember that it is characterized by a large weight. It greatly complicates the installation and makes special demands on the stability and strength of the fasteners.

The product instructions indicate that such a container must be installed on special legs. The presence of these supports greatly simplifies installation. It is necessary to properly fix the supports, which often come with plumbing. The bath is ready for installation.

But often such containers are installed on brickwork. How to fix the bath in this case?

Features of mounting a steel bath on brickwork

The masonry provides good rigidity, compared with the use of standard legs.

• So, the arrangement of the bathroom begins with unpacking the container itself. We correlate its parameters with the dimensions of the seat.
• Remember, in order to install the container correctly, quickly and efficiently, it is necessary that the distance between the wall and the sides of the bowl is at least 2.5 cm. This requirement does not apply to the installation of corner baths.
• We install the bowl on previously prepared spacer bars. They should be located close to the wrong side of the sides.
• We connect the siphon correctly.
• Using a spirit level (level), we check the location of the bowl relative to the horizon. If necessary, we level the container by changing the angle of inclination of the struts.

• Brickwork must first be laid out under that part of the bath where the legs of the structure should have been located.
• The last row of masonry must be brought close to the wall of the bath. For this, pieces of brick are used.
• We leave the masonry to dry for several days. After we check the spacers and the stability of the structure.
• Along the perimeter of the brick bath, we lay out the screen under the very rim.

Many believe that this is the most reliable and relatively inexpensive way to fix a bathroom.

Is a screen needed?

You can also overlay a brick screen with tiles to match the walls.

Remember that the screen will perform not only a decorative function. It also provides additional rigidity to the entire structure. When constructing a side, try to keep the masonry adjacent to its lower part around the perimeter. This will prevent the bowl from skewing if suddenly the lower supports are not strong enough.

This method of installing a bathroom is relevant only for metal. Therefore, it should not be used for an acrylic bowl.

Fixing the bathroom to the wall and to the floor

Installation of a metal structure on a brickwork is quite simple. But how to fix the bath to the wall and to the floor?

The metal bath must be installed on a standard support structure.

It may happen that the studs of the support legs are slightly smaller than the size previously assumed. In other words, if, for example, it was planned to install a container under the height of the sides 60 cm, and the bathroom with the legs turned out reaches a height of 57 cm.

This problem can be easily solved by cutting pieces of tiles of the required thickness. The bathtub can be securely fixed by their glued elements at the location of the legs.

After that, it is necessary to measure the location of the lower edge of the side and install the metal profile according to the markings made earlier.

On the wall we seal the fasteners with silicone. To do this, in the upper part of the profile, stepping back 1-2 mm, we apply silicone sealant.

We move it to the wall so that its supports stand in a certain place. If you glued additional pieces of tiles, you must install the bath no earlier than a day later. After all, silicone must completely polymerize.

With a metal bath sorted out. And how to fix an acrylic bath, which is very popular today?

Installing an acrylic corner bath on supports

Acrylic baths are currently very popular. The main advantage is low weight. But how to fix an acrylic bath? To the wall or on regular supports?

The installation of a bath made of this material on supports occurs in the following sequence:

• The product is removed from the packaging.
• A blanket or carpet should be laid on the floor, which will keep the glossy surface from scratches. The bowl is turned over onto the covered floor.
• We measure the sides of the bath, correlate them with the size of the seat. The corner bath must always be installed correctly. In this case, the two walls that form the seat must converge with each other at right angles. Otherwise, there will be a gap between the walls and the bathroom, which is quite difficult to cover with something.
• We prepare all the components for the manufacture of the bathtub frame.
• Separately, we lay out all the components. This will make it easier to get to them. So, how to fix the legs of the bathroom?
• Carefully insert the plugs into the ends of the legs. We fasten them well.
• We screw the studs into the adjusting legs (inside which there is a thread).

• We wind 2 locknuts on the studs.
• We assemble the profile from which the frame itself will be made in the future.
• The profile has a hole in the insert. The stud of the adjusting leg is screwed into it.
• The first lock nut must be screwed close to the profile, the second - to the leg. So the design will be not only stable, but also reliable.
• We install profiles on the bowl. We fasten them with self-tapping screws that are included in the kit.
• When assembling the second profile, it is necessary to prepare a long and short hairpin.
• The smaller stud must be screwed in with locknuts in the same way as the legs.
• But the pancake pin needs to be screwed on the side of the profile, which should be located on the side of the protrusion of the side of the bowl itself.
• We install plastic legs on both sides on a screwed-in longer hairpin. Thus, one foot of the bowl should rest against the floor, and the other against the side of the acrylic container.
• After installing the legs on both sides, tighten the nuts. At the same time, please note that after installing the support legs on the profile, their plugs must be placed at the same level. Using a ruler, you can check the location of the extreme points of the supporting legs. To do this, it is enough to measure the distance from the surface of the plug to the surface of the profile.
• We can assume that the acrylic bath is ready. The assembled structure can be turned over and installed in a prepared place.
• Using a level, check the position of the bowl. If necessary, align the legs by unlocking the nuts on the supports.

Reinforced acrylic bath

The above methods of how to fix the bath are considered the most popular. But the acrylic bowl can be fixed in another way. Indeed, the long-term operation of the bathtub on supports shows that this method of installation has one drawback. Under the weight of a person, the bowl crackles in the area between the reinforced profiles. What to do if the bath sways? How to fix it correctly?

This minor flaw is not critical, but it is desirable to eliminate it. To do this, it is necessary to prepare standard foam concrete blocks measuring 250 mm by 625 mm.

Having decided to install the bath on blocks, pay attention to the placement of the profile mounting frame. It must be carried at a distance of 65 cm.

Foam concrete blocks must be installed under the bowl on mounting foam. After the foam hardens completely, the bath will become motionless and stop crunching.

This method of installing a bathtub requires a minimum of financial costs, because you only need to purchase a foam bottle and a few bricks.

Features of the manufacture of reinforced fasteners

So, installation work consists in performing sequential actions:

• We raise the bath to the maximum height using the adjusting feet.
• Along the perimeter of the future laying of bricks, we blow out strips of mounting foam.
• We apply foam to the brick, lay it on the floor.
• We lower the bowl onto the foam with the help of adjustable supports, which we fix with nuts.
• After 24 hours, you can use the plumbing.

For better adhesion of the foam to the floor or brick, it is recommended to pre-moisten the surface with water from a spray bottle.

Remember that when fixing an object, you significantly complicate the repair and installation work in general. What else do you need to pay attention to before fixing the bath on legs?

stack of water

The correct arrangement of the water stack is necessary for the normal functionality of plumbing in the bathroom. It depends not only on the parameters of the siphon, as many non-professionals believe. It is necessary to fulfill the main condition of the stack: all siphon pipes and drains must be located above the level of the sewer pipe.

A large height difference will allow the water to leave faster. Due to the fast flow, the liquid can automatically clean the pipeline. As a result, you will have to make repairs and preventive examinations less often.

Remember: before attaching the bowl, you must raise the adjustable legs as high as possible. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the height does not affect the comfort of using the bathroom. The distance between the floor and the sides of the bathroom should be in the optimal value.

Choosing a hose in a siphon

Experts recommend replacing the flexible corrugated hoses in the siphon with smooth plastic pipes. Of course, they are easier to work with, because you do not need to respect the dimensions, they can be quickly bent in any position. But dirt accumulates in the folds of the corrugation, which is difficult to remove by simple washing. With frequent disassembly of the siphon, rubber seals and even threaded connections may suffer. As a result, serious damage occurs, which subsequently requires the replacement of the entire device.

And if the bath is attached to the floor, then all repairs are extremely difficult to carry out. Experts recommend purchasing siphons, in which the function of a sump is performed by an ordinary tube bend. So the smell will not get into the room, blockages will be much less common. And when they occur, you do not need to disassemble the structure, it is enough to use a conventional plunger.

Bath quality

Experienced plumbers recommend giving preference to imported bathtub manufacturers. Unfortunately, modern domestic bowls cannot be characterized by high quality. This applies not only to the coating, but also to the geometry of the products.

In domestic products, the corners of the sides are rarely straight. And an error of a few degrees over a long length can turn into a few millimeters. Therefore, often in this case, a wedge-shaped gap is formed between a flat wall and the side of the bowl. It is not recommended to hide it with a silicone sealant, because the error will be too visible. In this case, ceramic or plastic special skirting boards are used, which must be mounted on fixed surfaces. The corners peel off at the slightest fluctuation. It is not recommended to re-glue them.

Conclusion

Arranging a bathroom is an important task that every owner who has little experience in the construction industry can handle. Now you know how to fix the bathtub to the wall without difficulty.

At present, it is impossible to imagine a modern bathroom that would not be equipped with a bathtub. Basically, builders install and fix the bath, but over time, plumbing fails, loses its attractiveness or undergoes deformation. In this case, it becomes necessary to independently install the bath to replace the old product. In our article, we will look at how to fix the bathtub with legs if it is on a tiled floor, and other options for installing it.

Bath selection

A bathtub is a large volume sanitary container used for washing, washing and other household needs. More recently, showers tried to supplant this device, but due to less functionality, they were defeated.

There are 3 types of baths:

• Cast iron. This is a classic option that perfectly retains heat and has high strength. The disadvantage of this product is its high weight, since a bathtub made of such material weighs about 80-150 kg. With a large mass, transportation and installation of the product is difficult. Also, cast iron containers are expensive and limited to a set of standard sizes and shapes.
• Steel. A steel product is able to retain heat much less time, but at the same time, their weight is 3-5 times less than cast iron. Basically, steel bathtubs weigh up to 30 kg. The main disadvantage of these models is the large noise that occurs when the water jet falls. It is very difficult to install a steel bath on the floor so that it does not stagger and play. However, these models are widely used because of the affordable price, which is 3 times lower than for cast iron products.
• Acrylic. Acrylic, from which modern bathtubs are made, is a durable polymer material. Products from it are able to satisfactorily retain heat, and they can be purchased at a very affordable price. In addition, these products have a beautiful appearance. Acrylic containers are easy to install because they are not heavy. A significant disadvantage is the low strength, which is inferior to cast iron and steel. Therefore, the solid weight of a person can break through an acrylic product.

Important! So that after installation the bath does not sway and stand level, you should choose the right size of the product. The length of the container corresponds to the distance between the walls minus 4-5 cm. When you buy a bath, you need to opt for models that are as close as possible to the calculated dimensions. This requirement helps to prevent possible gaps between the bathroom and the walls, which may appear after the installation is completed. In addition, with the right choice of capacity, the process of attaching the product to the wall and floor of the room is greatly facilitated.

Features of installation of various bathtubs

Many people ask themselves: how to fix the bath on their own so that it does not stagger and play? When installing a sanitary tank, you need to remember some nuances, given which you can independently cope with the task.

To do this, you should take into account the features of fastening various types of baths:

• The most difficult moment of fixing a cast-iron bath is to bring this product into the room with a weight of about 100 kg and install it on the floor. To mount this container, the 4 supports supplied with the selected product are required. The cast iron bath is installed on the floor of the room with the help of legs, which are attached to the bottom of the product with special bolts or wedges. To distribute the load from the weight of the bathroom, a metal sheet is laid on the floor of the room.
• A steel container is much more difficult to install than a cast iron product. Since it has less weight, very often illiterate installation leads to its staggering and slipping. To securely fasten the steel product, it is required that the bath adjoins 3 walls as close as possible. You can install the container on a brick podium or brick supports that come with the bathroom.
• Acrylic products are fixed on a podium or adjustable supports so that the container does not swing, wobble or slip. Without fail, there must be an adjoining of the container to 3 walls of the room. Since acrylic models have low mechanical strength, it is recommended to build a frame around them, which makes it possible to give the product additional rigidity and hide communication elements.

Important! When repairing in the bathroom, only after laying ceramic tiles, you can install the product. In order to provide access to the floor under the tank, the product must be lifted, and then installed on wooden blocks or bricks.

Basic rules for installing a bath

When buying a bathroom without fail, you should pay attention to the mounting system with which it will be completed. After purchasing the product, you must carefully read the instructions, familiarize yourself with the installation method that is recommended for this model.

How to fix a steel bath so that it does not rock? Basically, the product installation process is as follows:

1. Before fixing the steel bath, we prepare the site for installation. If it is supposed to perform finishing work with ceramic tiles, then we lay the tiles on the walls and on the floor of the room.
2. We set the bath on its side, then carefully place it on the floor, since this position facilitates the convenient connection of the overflow and drain pipes.
3. Applying a sealant or sealant, as well as changing the position of the product, we connect the floor siphon with plastic pipes.
4. We fasten or glue the legs to the bottom of the sanitary container, while adjusting the supports in height.
5. We place the product in such a way that it is possible to connect the siphon to the sewer system.
6. Under the bottom we build a podium of bricks or some other materials. We install a frame that would allow us to hide the pipes behind a decorative screen.
7. We hermetically process the joints between the walls and the product, using a sealant, a moisture-resistant solution or a plastic corner.
8. After the installation is completed, experienced specialists check the reliability and quality of fastening. To do this, fill the product with water and control the correct operation of the drain. We observe that the product does not swing or stagger.

Mounting with mounting foam

Mounting foam is used to strengthen the product and simultaneously fix it on the floor and walls of the room. Attaching the bathtub to the wall using mounting foam is done as follows:

1. We set the sanitary container in place and in height with the help of adjustable legs so that there is a gap of about 0.5-1.5 cm near the walls.
2. After that, fill the tub to the brim with water.
3. Using mounting foam, we close the gaps between the body of the sanitary container and the walls of the room, as well as between the legs of the product and the floor.

Important! Sealing foam has the property of expanding when dry, so it must be used in a strictly metered order. Otherwise, undesirable deformations of the structure occur, which reduce the reliability of its fixation.

The use of a brick frame

As a rule, a brick frame is used in situations where you fix the product without using legs, while ensuring even distribution of the load around the entire perimeter of the support. This installation method allows you to apply the option of laying out the frame both across the bathroom and along the room.

Important! With a transverse arrangement, the product must directly rest on the brick, which implies additional fastening of the frame to the walls using metal corners - aluminum or steel. We fix the pre-prepared corners with dowels on the wall. With this option, the free edges of the container have additional support, and when pressed, it does not swing.

How to fix a steel bath with a brick frame:

• We unpack the purchased product and conduct a thorough analysis of the dimensions of the product and the room.
• We install the bathtub on the spacer bars, placed right next to the wrong side of the sides.

Important! When installing a bowl in a niche, it is necessary to observe the required distance between the plumbing sides and the wall on each side, which corresponds to 2.5 cm. This requirement does not apply when installing corner products.

• Using a spirit level, we check the position of the product relative to the horizon. If necessary, we change the angle of installation of the spacers, thus aligning the installation of the bowl.
• In the intended places for installing the legs, we lay out the brickwork.
• We install the last row of brickwork close to the wall of the container, using pieces of brick.
• When the masonry has dried, we take out the spacers, after which we check the stability of the bowl, using its own weight.
• Using a brick, along the perimeter of all plumbing, we lay out the screen under the very edge.

Attention! In this case, the creation of the screen serves not only as a decorative decoration, but also provides additional rigidity to this design. With insufficient strength of the lower supports, laying out brickwork to the lower segment of the side around the entire perimeter of the bowl does not allow plumbing distortions.

When performing such work, be sure to provide a small viewing hole that would allow free access to the siphon. As a finish to cover the hole, a small piece of drywall is used or a small plastic door is installed. If you are going to use ceramic tiles for wall decoration, then you can use a ready-made screen that serves as the front panel of such a base.

Installation on a metal frame

This installation method is mainly used when installing acrylic bowls, which are already equipped with a finished steel frame. In the absence of such an accessory, a steel frame can be purchased separately or created independently.

How to mount an acrylic bathtub to the wall using a metal frame:

• When installing such a product, we attach the guide rails of the frame to the bottom of the product, using self-tapping screws.

Important! Fastening should be carried out in special places that have a thickening.

• We install the legs included in the kit on the fixed guides, using a bolted connection.
• We lower the bowl into place.
• We outline the points of contact of the product with the walls of the bath room.
• In these places we mount special strips that provide additional support.

Important! A small gap should be left between the bar and the rim - about 2-4 mm, which is taken into account when the product expands after the bowl has been filled with hot water.

Installation of an acrylic corner bath on regular supports

To fix a corner acrylic bathtub on legs, if it stands on a tiled floor using standard supports:

• We release the purchased acrylic container from packaging.
• To prevent scratches on the bathroom floor, spread the bedspread and turn the sanitary container over it.
• We carry out measurements of the sides of the product and correlate them with the dimensions of the installation site.

Important! For quick and high-quality installation of a corner product, it is necessary to check the converging walls of the seat, the angle between which must be right. Otherwise, a gap appears, which is very difficult to cover.

• We unpack the components necessary for the manufacture of the frame.
• For the ends of the legs we use plugs.
• We screw the studs onto which we wind the locknuts.
• We collect a profile to create a frame.
• We fasten the pin of the adjusting leg into the profile hole. We tighten one lock nut close to the profile, and screw the other to the leg for stability and structural strength.
• We install prepared profiles on the product and fasten them with self-tapping screws included in the kit.
• To assemble the second profile, we prepare a short and longer hairpin. Using a locknut, screw in a short stud.
• From the protruding side of the side of the product, we screw in a long hairpin.
• On both sides of the screwed long hairpin, we install plastic legs in such a way that one leg can rest against the acrylic side of the product, and the other, respectively, against the floor.
• We fix the installed legs with nuts.

Important! After installing the support legs on the profile, it is necessary to check that the plugs are located at the same level. With a ruler, you can check the location of the extreme points of the support legs, while measuring the distance from the profile plane to the surface of the plugs.

• We turn the assembled structure over and install it in the required place.
• By applying the level to the sides, we check the position of the sanitary container.
• If necessary, align the legs and tighten the locknuts again.

Reinforced acrylic bathtubs

Strengthening the acrylic bathtub on the support legs has one significant drawback, which is that in the area formed between the fixed profiles, the bowl crackles under the weight of a person.

To make reinforced fasteners for an acrylic bath:

• We select standard brick blocks with a length of 625 mm and a thickness of 250 mm.
• With the help of adjusting supports, we raise the container to the maximum height.
• We blow foam around the perimeter of the product, on the surface of which we install blocks.

Important! In order for the foam to interact better with the blocks and the floor screed, it is necessary to moisten the mounting surfaces with water from a spray bottle.

• We lower the bowl onto the foam and, using nuts, fix the supports.
• After a day, plumbing stops crunching and becomes motionless.

This method is very simple, because for it you need to purchase only a bottle of foam and a few bricks.

Niche recessed bathtub

Small-sized apartments very often create difficulties for installing a sanitary ware in the place allotted for it. As a result, the installation of the bowl is complicated, but on the other hand, the possibility of rigid and reliable fixation of the container in the niche of the room is provided.

How to fix a cast iron bath to the floor? For rigid fastening of the product on each side of the wall, it is necessary to prepare grooves having the thickness of the edge of the bowl. For this purpose, a puncher or grinder is used. The lapels of the bowl are inserted into the prepared grooves with a slight “interference”. The absence of full backlash guarantees the most rigid fixation.

Important! In the absence of the required rigidity of the legs, you can further strengthen the bowl by using special transverse profiles that serve as supports for the lapels of the product.

How to fix a large gap in the wall?

Sometimes, during the installation of the container, a large gap remains between the wall and the end, which does not allow for a rigid fixation of the bowl. In this case, this disadvantage can be turned into an advantage, while creating a frame. As a result, a shelf appears between the wall and the bathroom, which can be used to store shampoos, powder and other accessories.

Consider some ways to eliminate a large gap:

• We make a frame from profiles that can be sheathed with a moisture-resistant material, such as drywall.
• We create a hatch to have access to plumbing.
• We fix the bar to the wall and build a shelf, one side of which is located on the bar, the second is on the product or frame.

Important! When designing a shelf, it is necessary to create it with a slope so that there is no accumulation of water. To avoid stagnant water, plumbing should be mounted with a slope towards the drain.

footage

In principle, any installation work is within the power of a home master, if he responsibly and scrupulously treats the upcoming work. In this article, we have offered you several options on how to fix the bathtub on legs so that it does not stagger for different plumbing models. We hope that using our step-by-step instructions, you managed to do everything efficiently and reliably.

In Russian homes, a bathtub is a more popular plumbing fixture. Perhaps this is due to the fact that apartment meters are still not so common, and Russians are not used to saving water yet.

On the other hand, the bath is really more convenient for washing, washing things and other household needs. The most popular are steel models, which are distinguished by an affordable price, high quality and long service life. Due to their light weight, transport and installation of these products is quite simple. In this article, we will show you how to install a steel bath yourself.

Features of steel baths

They replaced the too bulky, heavy cast-iron models of the Soviet model. Steel is a ductile and easily machined metal, thanks to which manufacturers have the opportunity to diversify the model and size range of sanitary products.

The advantages of such containers for washing are:

1. A light weight. A steel bath weighs 4-5 times lighter than a cast iron bath, so it is easier to transport, bring to the floor and install.
2. Coating durability. Enamel is applied to the surface of the bowl when exposed to high temperatures, as a result of which it is baked, acquiring resistance to chips, increased wear resistance.
3. Affordable price. With high performance and long service life, the price of steel models is significantly lower than acrylic and cast iron.

Note! Light weight when installing a steel bath is considered more of a disadvantage than an advantage. A loose, low mass bowl wobbles, slides and wobbles, making hygiene practices unsafe.

Mounting methods

The quality of installation has a great influence on the comfort of use and the longevity of steel washing containers. The fact is that this material is easily deformed if the load is incorrectly distributed. When purchasing a steel font, pay attention to models with walls that are 3 mm or more thick. Installation of a steel bath is carried out in one of 3 ways:

Important! The disadvantages of steel baths are high thermal conductivity and resonating ability of products of this type. When using the bowl, homeowners notice that it cools faster, and also makes more noise when collecting water than cast iron. These defects can be reduced if, during the installation process, mounting foam or heat-insulating material is applied to the bottom surface of the bath.

Installation technology

Do-it-yourself installation of a steel bath is done when the floor in the room has already been leveled and tiled, but before the wall cladding has begun. This sequence of work allows you to move the bowl to the wall with a minimum gap. For self-assembly, the master will need bowl supports, sealant, polyurethane foam, a wrench, and a level. Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

Professional craftsmen recommend installing steel models on 3 walls to increase the rigidity and reliability of the structure. To do this, wooden bars or a metal corner are attached to the walls with screws so that the edges of the bowl rest on them.

Video instruction

Bathing in a bath staggering under your feet is still a pleasure. And in order for it to stand and not stagger, additional measures are needed. How to fix the bath, what fasteners to use, how to fix the legs on the tiled floor - all this is below.

The foot bath is easy to install. Especially if the legs are adjustable in height. They allow you to set the edge at the height you need, to compensate for uneven floors. But not all legs are the same. Some do not give a sense of stability and the bath sways under your feet - far from the most pleasant feeling. Also, it might not be safe. There are several ways to fix the bath so that it does not stagger.

If the problem is that the bottom of the bath also sags, then it is better to make a base. Most often it is made up of mortar bricks. But not all bath manufacturers consider this option correct. Some indicate that installation on bricks and mortar is contraindicated. In some cases, the way out is filling with foam and / or mounting foam.

wall mount

When installing a bath, so that it does not stagger, it is better to fix it to the wall. Depending on how it is located, it can be mounted on three or two sides. Before fixing the bath, it is leveled at the height at which it is planned to be used. Then the procedure is as follows:

The bath is put in place. This time it must be raised and lowered so that its edge falls between the fastener and the wall or rests against it. It depends on what you are going to fix the edge of the tub to the wall with.

What can be used to attach

Now let's talk about what exactly they attach the bath to the wall. There are different options. From the "folk" - a steel corner, a wooden block, a galvanized profile for drywall. When fixing the bath with their help, they serve as a support, but do not fix it. Even if nothing else is done, the bathtub with legs is already staggering less, but it is better to fix it.

For fixing, a sealant is used. They are coated with a corner, profile or beam. When the bathtub is installed, the edge squeezes out the excess, which must be carefully picked up, cleaning both the wall and the bathtub. If the composition dries, it will be difficult to wash, so while the solution or sealant is “fresh”, carefully remove the excess.

You can first put the bath, then close the gap between the side and the wall with sealant or tile adhesive. This method also works and has a place to be.

There are special fasteners in the form of metal plates or a complex design of brackets with and without rubber pads. When using this type of fastener, they are installed so that you can crawl up and tighten the screw that attracts the board to the wall.

How to raise a bathtub higher off the floor

Not always the height of regular legs is enough, and then you have to look for how to raise the bath higher above the floor. The first thing to do is to unscrew the adjusting bolts to the maximum allowable height. Sometimes the standard height adjustment is not enough. If a couple of centimeters are missing, you can find a stud or bolt of the same diameter, but longer and use it. This is more reliable than laying pieces of tiles under the legs.

pedestal

The second thing that comes to mind is to make a pedestal. Bricks are often used for a clawfoot bath. They are simply placed under the legs. For a steel bath, and even more so for a cast iron one, a sheet of metal can be laid between the legs and the brick. The point loads created by the legs of the bathtub can crush the brick. They say paving slabs are more reliable in this regard. You can use it instead of bricks. But without gaskets, it's still unlikely to get by. Yes, and this option will provide a rise of 4-5 cm. Not higher.

If you need to raise the bathtub higher, it is better to lay down a plinth of several rows of bricks and concrete / tile adhesive. The area of ​​the pedestal must not be less than the area of ​​the lower part of the bath. It doesn't have to be solid. You can fold two rows in the area where the legs are installed. One brick or one and a half - depends on the mass of the bath. Under steel enough in one row, under cast iron is better than one and a half. Wait a couple of days until the solution gains strength. Then lay five centimeters on top of fresh. And install the bath, check the horizontal position of the installation, press down if necessary, and leave until the mortar sets. So we will form the desired shape of the "bed".

The option is clear and seems reliable, but many manufacturers do not recommend this type of installation. Probably due to the fact that under the influence of a large mass, the pedestal can fall apart. Of course, this is possible, but if the edges are well fixed to the wall, the outer wall is supported, the design will be reliable.

If you are friends with welding, you can build up regular legs. One of the options in the photo. A metal plate is welded to the legs, bolts / pins of large diameter are welded to it. This is just one of the options. The load on the floor will also be point, so it is better to weld another metal plate under the bolts. The distribution of the load will allow you to put it without problems on the tiled floor. Yes, and slip and move such a design will be less.

What to put under the legs of a cast-iron bath

The cast iron bath is the heaviest. Putting it on bricks or paving slabs, even with a metal gasket, is risky. If it doesn’t work out in any way (the sewer outlet requires raising the drain), you need reliable stands. As an option - glued pieces of plywood, textolite, paving slabs with a plate laid on top. Although both tiles and plywood can be pressed through. Textolite is more reliable, especially since it is available in different thicknesses. But cutting a thick one (and finding it) is a problem. But 10-12 mm thick is more realistic to find. We cut it into squares, dial the desired height, twist it with bolts / studs through the holes in the corners. On the front plate we form a recess for the installation of a support bolt or leg.

In general, they put something under the legs of a cast-iron bath. Of the options tested: a stack of their hockey pucks, pieces of wood, OSB squares glued together in a stack. They are fixed to the floor with elastic tile adhesive or sealant. This will reduce the chance of "slip" and the stand coming apart even if it does break. But to absorb a point load, between the legs and stacks of material, it is better to lay a piece of dense (can be reinforced) rubber.

The best thing to do is to leave it on regular "legs". If you still need to lift, install longer threaded screws. Usually the diameter is taken with a solid margin. So adding 2-3 cm in length, we do not add problems. If you want insurance, you can lay a foam block under the bottom, fill the missing height with mounting foam. With cast iron, this will not give guarantees, but still an additional support “just in case”. You can make supports near the legs and / or in the middle.

How to fix the bath if the walls are of low bearing capacity

If fixing the bath to the walls is not an option (drywall or foam block, just an old crumbling wall), you can only create a reliable foundation on which to install it. One of the options is a pedestal, described above. Often it is supplemented with a frame supporting the front side. This usually accounts for the maximum load, so they assemble a frame that is attached to the floor with dowels, even if tiles are laid on the floor. When installed, one of the sides has a reliable support, which provides the necessary stability.

The retaining wall for the front side is made of timber, plasterboard profile. It can be welded from a profiled pipe, a corner with a small shelf.

The second option is a welded frame made of profiled pipe, which is welded to the size of the bath. She "sits" on the frame, and it, in turn, is rigidly fixed to the floor all on the same dowels. The gaps between the wall and the side can be closed in any way possible, but this will not hold the bath, but the frame.

For shock absorption and noise reduction, you can use rubber pads - hard rubber. Or boards as in the photo. They can also hold the container from the sides. Such fastening of the bath to the floor is reliable. She's definitely not going anywhere. By the same principle, you can make a frame for a free-standing bath, and sheathe it and ennoble it to your liking.

How to fix the legs on the floor

Installing a bathtub on legs depends on their design, and there are many of them. There is no need to describe any specific one, since usually everything is either intuitively understandable, or there is an installation manual. It is not always in writing, sometimes in the form of drawings, but usually this is enough. More information in graphics than in words. But, if the bathtub with legs is installed on tile or porcelain stoneware, it can slip. To avoid this, here's what you can do:

The latter option gives high reliability, but it will be difficult to dismantle the bath. On the other hand, the legs must be fixed firmly so that there is no play. These movements can break the concrete and the tub will wobble again.

There is another option - with stretch marks or lanyards (a device for tightening and picking up slack). They are bought at a hardware store. This option is possible if the legs are connected with a hairpin, if they have standard holes that you can catch on.

Anchors with hooks are screwed into the floor. They can fix not only the legs to the floor, but also to the walls. Adjustment of a tension in a lanyard is provided. You just need to take the most powerful and look at the length.