Corner wooden joints without a single nail. Connections of wooden structures: general information. How to make a spike connection

Wooden parts are used in many products. And their connection is an important process on which the strength of the entire structure depends.

Dozens of different compounds are used to make furniture and other wood products. The choice of how to connect wood parts depends on what the product should be in the end and what load it should carry.

Connection types

When connecting wooden parts, you need to remember an important point - always a thin part is attached to a thick one, but not vice versa.

According to the relative position of the elements, the following methods of connecting wood parts are distinguished:

• extension - increasing the height of the part;
• splicing - elongation of the workpiece;
• rallying - increasing the width of the element;
• knitting - connection at an angle.

The methods of joining wooden parts in the manufacture of furniture are most often used as follows:

• gluing;
• "dovetail";
• butt;
• grooved;
• overlap;
• deaf on thorns;
• through spike.

Let us consider the technologies of some compounds in more detail.

Splicing to length

Such wooden parts have some nuances. At its core, this is the elongation of elements in the horizontal direction. Splicing can be:

• End-to-end - cuts of the ends are made at a right angle and are combined with each other. A bracket is hammered into both beams (logs).
• Oblique butt - the cuts are made at an angle, and the ends are fastened with a pin or nail.
• End butt with a comb.
• Direct overlay - the length of the cutting is 1.5-2 times greater than the thickness of the beam (log).
• Oblique overlay - the ends are cut at an angle and fixed with bolts.
• Overlay with an oblique cut - end ridges are made at the ends of the parts, having a width and length of one third of the thickness of the beam.

Height extension

From the name it is clear that the essence is to lengthen the bars or logs in the vertical direction. The axes of the elements are on the same vertical straight line. Extension types are:

• End-to-end extension. To perceive random loads, a spiked pin is inserted on the sides.
• Extension with one or two spikes. The width and height of one spike must be at least one third of the timber thickness. The depth of the nest is slightly more than the height of the spike.
• Growing in half a tree. The ends of both logs must be cut to half their thickness by 3-3.5 diameters in length.
• Tongue extension. In one beam, you need to cut a fork into which you need to insert the correspondingly cut end of the other workpiece. The connection itself must be wrapped with tin.

Width payment

Used to increase the product in width. When using rallying methods, it is important to pay attention to the location of the annual rings of the tree. It is important to alternate boards depending on their direction. The payment options are:

• Butt - the details need to be trimmed and milled on a square.
• In tongue and groove - the height and width of the ridge is equal to 1/3 of the thickness of the board.
• In a hacksaw - the edges must be trimmed at an acute angle to the wide plane of the board.
• Comb with a height of 1/3 to half the board.
• A quarter with a ledge equal to half the thickness of the board.
• In the tongue with rails - in each board, select the grooves into which you need to insert the rail, which has a width twice the depth of the groove.

knitting

Knitting is used when it becomes necessary to connect parts at an angle. The types of knitting are:

• knitting in half a tree using a hidden spike;
• knitting in a semi-paw;
• single and double slotted spikes;
• slotted paw.

butt

The easiest way to join two pieces together. Joining wooden parts at right angles is done using this method. The surfaces of the two parts are carefully adjusted to each other and pressed tightly. There is a connection of wooden parts with nails or screws. Their length should be such that they pass through the first part and go deep into the second one by about 1/3 of the length.

For the fastening to be reliable, it is necessary to drive in at least two nails. You need to place them on the sides of the center line. The thickness of the nail should not cause cracking of the wood. Therefore, it is recommended to pre-make holes with a diameter of 0.7 of the thickness of the nail used.

To enhance fixation, lubricate the surfaces that are connected with glue. For rooms that will not be under the influence of moisture, you can use carpentry, casein or skin glue. In the case of using the product in high humidity conditions, it is better to use a moisture-resistant adhesive, for example, epoxy.

Overlay T-connection

To perform such a connection of wooden parts, you need to lay one workpiece on top of another and fasten them to each other using bolts, screws or nails. You can arrange wooden blanks both at a certain angle to each other, and along one line.

So that the details do not change, use at least 4 nails. If there are only two nails, then they are driven in diagonally. To make the fixation stronger, the nails must pass through both parts, and the protruding ends must be bent and deepened into the wood.

Half tree connection

To perform such a connection of two wooden parts, certain skills and experience are required. It is performed as follows. In both workpieces, samples are made with a depth that corresponds to half of their thickness. The width of the sample must be equal to the width of the part.

The method of joining wooden parts in half a tree can be performed at different angles. In this case, it is important to ensure that the angle is the same on both wooden blanks, and the width corresponds to the width of the part. Due to this, the parts are tightly pressed against each other, and their edges are located in the same plane.

In addition, such a connection may be complete or partial. In the case of a partial connection, the end of one workpiece is cut at a certain angle, and an appropriate sample is made at the end of the other. Such connections include angular in the mustache of a half-tree. The bottom line is to trim both spikes at an angle of 45 o, as a result of which the seam between them is located diagonally. When using this method, you need to be especially careful, and make corner cuts with a special tool - a miter box.

Cleat

Such wooden parts are used for fastening planks or when laying the floor. The edge of one board has a spike, and the edge of the other has a groove. Accordingly, fastening occurs when the spike enters the groove. Such a connection looks very neat, since there are no gaps between the boards.

Doing tenons and grooves requires some experience. And besides, for the manufacture will require a special machine. Therefore, it is easier to purchase ready-made parts.

Connector "socket-thorn"

The most commonly used method of joining wooden parts. Such a joint is strong, rigid and looks as neat as possible. To make such a connection, you need to have some skills and experience, as well as be careful. An incorrectly made socket-thorn connection is fragile and looks ugly.

Its essence is the following. At the end of one workpiece, a groove is drilled or hollowed out, and at the end of the other, a spike. It's better when the elements have the same width. If the thickness is different, then the spike is made in a thin part, and the groove, respectively, in a thick one.

Spike connection sequence:

• Using a thickness gauge, draw two risks parallel to each other on the side of one workpiece. The distance should be the width of the future spike. For its evenness, markings should be made on both sides.
• The most optimal tool for making spikes is a hacksaw with a narrow blade and fine teeth, or a bow saw. During operation, the teeth of the tool should pass along the inner edge of the marking line. For convenience, it is better to clamp the part in a vice. It is best to make the spike a little larger than the required size. Then, if necessary, you can remove the excess. But if the spike is shorter, then the whole process will need to be repeated again.
• Using a chisel or chisel, a nest (groove) is made in the second part. Naturally, the dimensions of the groove must correspond to the dimensions of the spike. It is best to drill holes around the entire perimeter of the groove before proceeding with chiselling. The edges are carefully processed with a chisel.

If the connection of wooden parts is done correctly, then the surfaces of the edges of the spikes fit snugly against the walls of the socket. This gives good adhesion when gluing. In order for the spikes to be tighter, their dimensions should be 0.2-0.3 mm larger than the dimensions of the nest. If this value is exceeded, the bowstring may split; if the tolerance is less, the fastening will lose its strength during operation.

In addition, such a connection also involves gluing and fastening with screws, nails or wooden dowels. To simplify the work, holes should be drilled before screwing in the screws. The heads of the screws are hidden in a secret (made using a countersink). The pilot hole should be equal to 2/3 of the screw diameter and less than 6 mm (approximately) of its length.

Gluing

Bonding wooden parts is carried out as follows:

• The surfaces to be glued are cleaned with a lint-free cloth, and the roughness is cleaned with fine emery.
• Using a cardboard stick, apply wood glue in an even thin layer on all necessary surfaces.
• The surfaces smeared with glue must be rubbed against each other. This will ensure smooth contact and strong bonding.
• The parts must be pulled together so that the retention at the joints is reliable. Measuring the diagonals will make sure that the corners are straight. They must be equal. If this is not the case, the position of the elements needs to be corrected.
• The connection is strengthened by drilling pilot holes into which finishing nails are driven in or screws are screwed in. The heads of the screws must be recessed, for this the holes must be bored. The nails are deepened using a punch.
• Holes with nails are covered with putty for wood. Holes bored for screws are closed with hardwood plugs lubricated with glue. When the glue or putty is dry, the surface is sanded so that it is smooth, and then varnished.

Necessary tools and fixtures

Implementation tools are very diverse. They are selected depending on the type of work performed. Since in carpentry the processed elements are larger than in carpentry, respectively, the tool must be suitable.

To connect wooden parts, use the following:

• axe;
• planer, straight and curved plows, bear, sherhebel - more thorough surface treatment;
• chisel - chiseling holes and nests;
• chisel - for cleaning cuts;
• drills with various tips - for through holes;
• various saws - for sawing up and down;
• hammer, hammer, sledgehammer, mallet;
• square, compasses, level and other auxiliary tools;
• nails, metal staples, bolts with nuts, screws and other fastening products.

Conclusion

In fact, there are many more ways to connect wooden parts of furniture or other structures. The article describes the most popular methods and implementation technologies. It is important to remember that the connection of wooden parts for painting or varnishing must be carefully prepared, and all fasteners must be strong and made to last.

It will be useful for beginner home craftsmen to learn about the methods of joining wooden parts. We devote a brief educational program to this topic, which will describe the main types of carpentry joints and rallying using glue, nails, screws or dowels, or without them at all.

Connection selection rules depending on the type of load

End connections are the simplest; they are used if necessary to build up a part. These joints are best able to withstand compressive loads, however, when punching specially shaped locks, good resistance to twisting, stretching and bending can be achieved. The standard version of the end connection is with trimming to half the thickness of both parts. The cut can be straight or oblique, if necessary, to prevent bending, stretching or twisting, a spike or an obtuse angle is cut at the end of each cut, or the cut is made stepped, forming a kind of “castle”.

1 - direct overlay half a tree; 2 - oblique pad; 3 - straight overlay with a stepped joint; 4 - overlay half a tree with an oblique joint; 5 - oblique overhead lock; 6 - half-tree connection with an oblique spike

Corner and side connections are used to connect straight parts into a truss or frame. Usually this part of the structure is supporting, so the main loads fall on displacement and compression. If the structure experiences the static load provided, a rectangular spike is cut on one of the parts, and a groove or eyelet of the appropriate size is cut on the other. If it is possible to act on the break of the structure, the spike and groove are cut in the shape of a trapezoid.

Corner joints: 1 - with an open through spike; 2 - with a deaf closed spike; 3 - with a through oblique spike

Overhead cross and T-shaped connections are used, as a rule, for additional connections between critical structural details. The main load in them is compression, displacement and rupture. The first two types of load are eliminated by cutting half a tree or less, followed by matching the parts. The shoulders of the notches take the main load on themselves, it remains only to fix the connection with screws or overhead brackets. In some cases, a dowel is used to strengthen the connection or a spike with a wedge is cut down.

1 - cross connection with an overlay in half a tree; 2 - cross connection with landing in one socket; 3 - T-shaped connection with a hidden oblique spike; 4 - T-shaped connection with a straight stepped overlay

A separate type of connections - box. They are designed to connect boards at right angles. Usually, for a box joint, teeth are cut on each board, the width of which is equal to the distance between them. On different boards, the teeth are cut with an offset, so when connected, the corner of the boards looks like one piece. The teeth can also be wedge-shaped, preventing the corner from breaking in one direction, or additionally fastened with glue or nails.

Box corner joints: 1 - with straight through spikes; 2 - with oblique through spikes

How to make a spike connection

To make a spiked joint, you need to circle both parts with a marking line along all faces at a distance from the end equal to the width of the joint. On two opposite sides and the end, the body of the spike is marked with lines, the markings on both parts are completely identical.

The spike is cut from the sides with a hacksaw for a transverse cut and the wood is chipped with a chisel. The width of the spike is made 2-3 mm larger for subsequent precise processing with a knife or chisel. The groove is cut with a hacksaw for a longitudinal cut and chipped off with a chisel, also leaving a small allowance for processing. This is followed by an adjustment, during which the parts are combined and achieve the most snug fit.

With a T-shaped spike connection, a central spike or groove is cut on one of the parts, and an eye is hollowed out on the other or two side cuts are made, depending on the type of the first part. To make an eye, a chisel is used, turning the inclined part of the blade into the hole. If the eye is not solid, I make the spike 8-10 mm more depth and cut off its end in the form of a developed wedge. So when driving, the spike will open itself, and the part will be firmly planted.

To connect wide parts, you can use a box connection by cutting several spikes and grooves. The easiest way to fasten a stud joint is to drill it through and across the studs and drive a wooden dowel (window gusset) into the hole.

How to glue boards together

A very popular method of joining boards and bars is longitudinal and transverse gluing. When connecting boards with a wide side, the end can be even, although in most cases a tongue-and-groove profile is used. It is very important to fit the parts tightly so that the adhesive layer is as thin as possible, only in this way can maximum strength be achieved. Sometimes a small amount of cotton fiber is applied to the end smeared with glue, this improves the quality of the hitch.

The boards can also be connected in profile, but for this it will be necessary to perform a wedge-shaped gear cutting of both ends with an offset to the floor of the tooth for different parts. At home, such an operation can be performed using a manual milling cutter.

For gluing parts, casein glue or high concentration PVA is used; sifted wood flour is added to the adhesive to give strength. The surfaces are covered with glue and kept in air for 3-5 minutes, after which they are placed under oppression or squeezed with clamps. Such a connection is stronger than the tree itself and never breaks at the junction.

How to assemble elements of load-bearing structures

For load-bearing structures, two types of connections are used - extension and articulation. The easiest way to splice two parts is to make a cut with a hacksaw half the thickness at the same distance from the ends, and then chop off excess wood with an ax. After matching the two parts, the connection is usually fastened with two overhead strips nailed to the side of the cut. Bonding is also possible, but only if the parts are tightly fitted.

Half-cut ends can be brought together at almost any angle, this is the main method of connecting roof trusses. To fasten the parts, an additional tightening bond is required: the beam is applied to the connected parts on the side at a distance of 30-50 cm from the corner and cut to half the thickness at the points of contact, and then the structure is fastened with nails.

Often vertical and inclined structures need support, for example when connecting the truss system to floor beams. In this case, the landing slots on the horizontal beam are notched, into which the racks will be inserted. It is very important to observe the angle of inclination and make a hemming no more than a third of the thickness of the timber.

Connections with Special Links

Almost all carpentry connections are made with additional reinforcing ties. In the simplest example, the role of such is played by nails or self-tapping screws.

When building up parts, the assembly can be strengthened with a through bolted connection, clamps, staples and wood grouses, or it is simply wrapped with cold-rolled wire. It is enough to fasten the spliced ​​vertical supports with two overhead strips - wooden or metal.

Corner joints are most often fastened with staples, patch plates or corners. In cases where it is necessary to maintain a slight mobility of the connection, one through bolt is used, which either flashes across the place of the lining of the parts, or tightens them in the longitudinal direction with a minimum indent from the lining.

The place of fastening of the special connection must be removed from the edge by at least 10 diameters of the fastener and must not have defects. It is important to remember that often the bonds do not provide the overall strength of the connection, but only compensate for the unaccounted for load.

All photos from the article

Sometimes, when carrying out construction and other work using wood, it is required to make elements longer or wider, and very few people know how to do this correctly. That is why we will consider how to splice the board yourself and what methods and techniques exist. It is important to choose the option that is best suited in a given situation and will require minimal time and money.

Basic workflow requirements

Before we begin to consider specific options for carrying out work, it is necessary to understand what factors are observed to ensure that the result that is expected is obtained:

Important!
Remember one simple rule that experts always use: to obtain the best result, it is necessary that the parameters of the elements to be joined be similar, in other words, one type of wood should be used.

Work options

All events of this kind can be divided into two large groups - rallying boards in width and length, we will consider them separately and tell you which methods are the most popular and how to implement them correctly.

Width connection

Of course, the simplest solution would be a shield splicing option, so we will start with it, first we will present a diagram of the main options, and below we will describe them in detail:

• The first method involves cutting a cavity with a milling machine, which has a trapezoidal shape and allows the use of a key as a retainer.. Reliability can be called a plus of this solution, and a minus is the need for a milling machine or the presence of a manual milling cutter for work, you can’t get by with a hand tool;
• Rallying using an end bar, which is connected to the ends of the board using the tongue-and-groove method, is used for elements of small length, since this option provides high reliability of precisely small structures. Again, you will need to work. With his help, it will be carried out quickly and efficiently;
• You can make a cutout on the end, fit the rail under it and put it on wood glue, this is also a rather interesting option that is suitable for small structures;
• The last two options involve gluing a triangular rail, only one of them cuts into the end, and the second option involves cutting the end at an angle, you need to choose what is best suited in a given situation.

But if you want to connect the board more securely, then one of the following methods will do:

• The second solution is the connection into the so-called minithorn, this is a very durable and reliable option, but for work you will need a special cutter, the price of which is high, so this method is chosen by those who often have to splice elements;

• If the elements are connected along the length not in one, but in two or more layers, then you can use the end-to-end option, such a connection of boards along the length is well suited for multilayer systems, in the figure it is under the letter A;

• The traditional groove-ridge option is often used, here it is important to ensure the optimal connection configuration, so the width of the groove and, accordingly, the tongue should not be more than a third of the total thickness of the board, it is important to cut very accurately so that the elements match perfectly, this will significantly increase the strength of the connection;

Important!
When working, a milling cutter is most often used, but the cutters can have a different configuration, you should monitor the condition of their cutting edges and sharpen or replace them in a timely manner, since the quality of the connection largely depends on the purity of the processing.

• You can use the option of cutting at an angle, it is well suited where special strength is not required, but you need to connect elements that can be used for finishing, etc .;
• The triangular thorn-groove in many respects resembles the usual one, only the configuration of the ends differs. It is also important here that the elements are perfectly aligned with each other, as this will ensure both the accuracy of the pairing and its maximum reliability;
• A quarter connection is simple - cuts are made for half the thickness, the length of the protrusions should not greatly exceed the thickness, the elements are lubricated with glue and compressed until the composition dries, this is a standard procedure for almost all options;
• The last type is key rallying, it does not differ from the above option when working in width, the requirements are the same.

Conclusion

Correctly and reliably connecting the board means ensuring its maximum strength, it is important to follow all the recommendations and use only high-quality materials. The video in this article will show some of the options for carrying out the work clearly, and if you have questions or an addition, unsubscribe in the comments.

Usually timber products such as beams, beams or boards are produced in a certain size, but often in construction materials are needed that are longer, wider or thicker. Therefore, in order to obtain the required dimensions, there are various types of connections using cuttings, which are made manually according to the markup or with special equipment.

Width Connections

When joining narrow boards, shields of the required dimensions are obtained.

There are several ways to connect.

1) Connection on a smooth fugue;
With this connection method, each rail or board is called a plot, and the seam that is formed as a result of the connection is called a fugue. The quality of the jointing is indicated by the absence of gaps between the joints of the edges of adjacent plots.
2) Rail connection;
Along the edges of the plots, grooves are selected and inserted into their rails, fastening the plots together. The thickness of the lath and the width of the groove should not exceed 1/3 of the thickness of the board.
3) Connection in a quarter;
In fastened plots, quarters are selected along the entire length. In this case, the dimensions of the quarter, as a rule, do not exceed half the thickness of the plot.
3) Tongue and groove connection (rectangular and triangular);
This type of connection provides the plot with a groove on one side and a ridge on the other. The comb can be either rectangular or triangular, but the latter is rarely used because its strength is slightly worse. The tongue and groove connection is quite popular and is often used by parquet manufacturers. The disadvantage of such a connection is considered to be less economical, since more boards are used.
4) Dovetail connection;

This type of fastening is a bit similar to the previous one, only the comb has a trapezoidal shape. Well, hence the name.

Also, when assembling the shields, dowels, tips in the groove and a comb with the rail pasted into the end are used. Among the glued rails, there are triangular, rectangular and glued ones, and when using the dowel, the dovetail groove is mainly chosen. All this is necessary for reliable fastening of the shield.

Length connection

Among the popular types of connections along the length can be distinguished: end-to-end, on the "mustache", in the groove and comb, on the toothed adhesive connection, in a quarter and on the rail. The most popular gear connection, because it has the best strength.

There is also splicing, when longer segments are joined together. This can happen in several ways. For example, half a tree, an oblique cut, an oblique and straight overhead lock, an oblique and straight tension lock and end-to-end. When choosing half-wood splicing, the required joint length should be 2 or 2.5 times the thickness of the timber. For greater reliability, dowels are used, for example, this can be found in the construction of cobbled houses.

When using an oblique cut with trimming the end, the dimensions are 2.5 - 3 of the thickness of the beam and are also fastened with dowels.

The connection with a straight or oblique overhead lock is used in structures in which tensile forces are present. A straight overhead lock is located on a support, and an oblique one can be placed at the supports.

If you decide to use a bevel cut with end trimming, then the connection should have 2.5 or 3 bar thicknesses. In this case, the same dowels are used.

When docking with a straight or oblique tension lock, you don’t have to worry about strength, but such a connection is difficult to manufacture, and when the wood dries out, the wedges are weakened, so this connection method is not suitable for serious structures.

Butt splicing is when the two ends of the beam are placed on a support and securely connected with staples.

The connection of beams or logs can be found in the construction of walls or in the upper or lower trim in frame houses. The main types of connections include half-tree, half-paw, spike and corner frying pan.
A half-tree cut is considered to be a cutting or cutting of half the thickness at the ends of the bars, after which they are connected at an angle of 90 degrees.

The half-lap connection is formed when cutting at the ends of the bars of inclined planes, due to which the bars are tightly connected. The slope size is determined by the formula.
Cutting with a corner frying pan is very similar to cutting in half a tree, but the distinguishing feature is that with such a connection one of the bars loses a small part in width.

Height connection

The cruciform connection of the beams can be found during the construction of the bridge. With this method, you can use a half-tree connection, a third and a quarter of a tree, or a notch of one bar.

Building

The extension of beams and logs is the connection of elements in height, which is often used in the construction of poles or a match.

There are several types of extensions:

1) back to back with a hidden spike;
2) end-to-end with a through ridge;
3) half-wood with bolting;
4) half-tree with fastening with clamps;
5) half-wood with fastening with strip steel;
6) oblique cut with fastening with clamps;
7) back to back with overlays;
8) bolting;

The length of the joints is usually 2-3 of the thickness of the joined beams or 2-3 of the diameter of the logs.

spike connection

When spike knitting bars, a spike is cut on one, and an eye or nest is made on the other. Spike knitting of bars is often used to create joinery, doors, windows or transoms. All connections are made with glue. You can use not only one, but two or more spikes. The more spikes, the larger the bonding area. This type of connection can be divided into corner end, corner middle and corner box.

At the corner end connection, an open through spike is used (one, two or three), a spike with a dark through and blind, plug-in dowels. Angular middle connections can be found on the doors. Angled middle and end can additionally use nails, screws, dowels or bolts.

Well, that's probably all about the types of connections. This does not include connections with nails, screws or bolts. Pure wood well and a little bit of glue. :)

What could be easier than connecting wooden parts to the "mustache"? Despite the simplicity of the method, sometimes there are difficulties with the accuracy and accuracy of the connections. In this article, we will give you simple tips that will help you achieve incredible results. Your corner joints will always be perfect!

1. Choose the direction and structure of the fibers

Whether you are making a photo frame or a furniture front trim, make sure that the color of the wood, as well as the direction and structure of the fibers on the blanks, match. Matching parts with a similar structure takes a little time, but as a result you get excellent connections.

2. Fine-tuning the cutting angle with sticky paper

If you've ever tried to adjust yours by a few tenths of a degree, then you know how difficult it is to do so. Here's an easy way to do this: Tape a few sticky notes on the crosscut fence. Thus, by making test cuts and removing one sheet at a time, you will achieve the ideal cutting angle.

3. Use scrap pieces to try on parts

To accurately determine the length of the strapping element, you need to try it on the panel. This is easy to do if you fasten it to the trim trim panel

4. Use dowels for even connections

Often it is not easy to evenly position the parts relative to each other and clamp them in clamps, especially when the parts are smeared with slippery glue. That is why woodworkers use dowels, even in cases where additional joint strength is not required.

5. Assemble frame structures on corner clamps

On some clamps, when assembling the frames, you need to additionally make sure that all corners are connected at 90 degrees. Using corner clamps, there is no need for additional measurements of angles and setting diagonals.

6. Increase your adhesive's "open time"

It is sometimes difficult to quickly apply glue to the joints, assemble the frames and clamp them in clamps without haste and fuss before the glue starts to set (often the open time of the glue is less than 5 minutes in a warm and dry room). To increase the open time of the adhesive, you can dilute it slightly with water. However, do not overdo it - if there is too much water, then the strength of the connection may decrease.

7. First assemble the parts on the "mustache", then profile

It is not always convenient to trim profiled blanks - chips may appear, they are not always easy to clamp in clamps - the outer profile of the product can be damaged. Therefore, simplify your life - first assemble and glue the frame from rectangular blanks, and after the glue has dried, profile it with a hand mill or on

8. Trust your sense of touch

When you make a frame structure, the pieces on opposite sides of the product should be the same length. To verify this, conduct a simple test. Fold the two pieces together and run your finger along the ends. There shouldn't be any fluctuations. You may not notice the difference in length by eye, but you will definitely feel even a minimal mismatch in the length of the blanks.

9. Cover ugly crevices

If in the process of assembling products you still could not avoid cracks at the corners of the joints, do not despair. Just close them by pressing the corners to the center of the connection with a blunt, smooth object. You will be surprised, but the gap will disappear, while the appearance of the product will not deteriorate at all. Believe me, even experienced craftsmen use this method.

10. You can change the proportions of the product in case of an error

If the last part of your strapping turned out to be a little shorter than the opposite, you can cut it along the inside. And after assembly, cut the rest of the parts on the outside. Thus, the width of the strapping will decrease slightly. If this, for example, is not a furniture facade, then no one will notice anything