Houses made of profiled timber are a modern take on wooden architecture. The technology is appreciated abroad, where it has been used for many years. Now it has gained wide popularity in Russia, which is facilitated by ease of construction and comfort of living. Such structures can be erected by ordering turnkey construction from a specialized company or by doing the installation yourself.
The secret of success lies in the specific properties of this building material. It is manufactured from natural wood and is dried in production conditions. The most common material is pine, spruce, larch, but you can also find bars from hardwood - oak, aspen.
Its main difference from the usual beam - presence on both sides (along the entire length) of the profile, providing a locking connection according to the "thorn-groove" system. Installation of structures from it is carried out according to the principle of a children's designer, joining the elements together.
Main Benefits indicated houses:
- ecological cleanliness;
- simplicity and speed of installation work;
- high thermal insulation parameters of the material;
- low shrinkage when using a well-dried timber;
- aesthetic appearance, related to nature;
- acceptable cost of materials and the entire construction;
- maintainability;
- the possibility of using all kinds of finishing and facing materials.
- low moisture resistance;
- tendency to rot;
- cracking under certain loads and freezing of moisture;
- shrinkage phenomena during operation.
The durability of the cobbled walls of a wooden house depends entirely on protective measures - impregnation with anti-rotten composition and reliable waterproofing.
Important. It should not be forgotten that wood is a highly flammable material, which requires appropriate treatment with non-combustible agents.
Design stage of construction
Any capital construction begins with several important events.
Design
The documents
Capital construction can be carried out only if the necessary technical documentation:
- Plan drawing of the foundation based on calculations and soil characteristics (groundwater level and freezing), with a specification for the need for materials.
- The plan of the entire structure based on the previous document.
- Detailed plan with floor breakdown, placement of premises and capital elements (stove, fireplace, stairs, etc.).
- A detailed plan of the cobbled walls with rafters and cuts in the main areas.
- Specification of individual parts of the structure.
- Roof drawing with details of the truss system and roofing.
- General view of the house from the outside.
Carrying out the calculation of the beam for the house
It is very difficult to calculate the required cross-section of a beam, taking into account the loads, and therefore, when choosing the size of a beam for walls, they use such norms:
- outbuildings and small cottages - 10x10 cm;
- standard houses for permanent residence, baths - 15x15 cm;
- large houses and cottages of the elite class - 20x20 cm.
The calculation of the amount of lumber is carried out based on a detailed plan of the walls with screeding. The required volume of timber (V) for masonry is determined as the product of P * H * b,
where P is the full perimeter of the house with all the protrusions (m), H is the height of the walls (m), b is the width of the timber (m), minus window and door openings.
The number of beams is determined as V / (b * h * l), where b is the width, h is the height, l is the length of the beam (m). The specific length of the bars is determined by the distribution of the walls.
Foundation
The laying and construction of the foundation is carried out in the following order:
- Type selection foundation - tape or columnar (pile). For residential buildings, the tape option is most suitable. In the construction of small structures, preference is given to a columnar support.
- Size calculation foundation. At the design stage, the depth of the foundation and the width of the tape (the area and number of pillars, piles) are determined. For houses made of timber, a shallow foundation is built with a depth equal to the level of soil freezing (most often 60-80 cm).
- Digging trenches or holes for poles. Backfill pillow of sand and gravel.
- Installation of wooden formwork.
- Laying of reinforcing elements from steel rods with a diameter of at least 12 mm. Linking them horizontally and vertically.
- fill carefully compacted with a vibrator.
- overlay waterproofing and thermal insulation. A layer of roofing material is laid on top of the pillow. The side surface of the foundation is covered with bitumen, and then with roofing material. The thermal insulation of the side walls is made of, or.
Wall building starts after curing concrete, i.e. not earlier than 7-10 days after filling.
Home construction
The construction of the walls begins with the installation of the box, as is commonly called the first crown of the log house. For it, a beam with a size exceeding the size of the main elements is used. Typical projects provide for the use of timber 15x20 cm. This detail of the house should be especially carefully to be treated with an antiseptic. In addition, it is recommended to use larch timber.
Work order:
- Laying roofing material waterproofing over concrete.
- Fixing metal pins in concrete for fixing the lower crown of the log house.
- Installation of a laying larch board around the entire perimeter of the house.
- Installing the prepared bars on the pins, forming the box frame.
- Checking horizontality using the building level.
Subfloor device
The draft floor or floor covering is made of wooden logs, which are fixed on the box of the house. A groove is cut out on the lower bars, coinciding with the size of the lag. On the bottom of the groove is laid soundproofing, rubber gasket. The log beams are laid in parallel with a step of 40-60 cm. If the ceiling is high above the ground, then support frames are installed.
Between the lags is laid waterproofing from roofing material or polyethylene film and fit insulation.
Most commonly used expanded clay, ash or sawdust. You can use mineral wool or foam.
On top of the log, a draft floor is laid from boards with a thickness of at least 25 mm.
The first board is fixed at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the wall, forming a damper gap.
Wall assembly
The walls are built by sequential laying of crowns along the entire perimeter of the house with the formation of openings and the removal of internal, intermediate walls. There are several nuances of construction, which will be highlighted below.
Beam splicing
You can securely connect the bars end-to-end in the following ways:
- Straight rim lock. It is formed according to the “half-beam” principle, but a “thorn-groove” connection is additionally created. The total length of the joint is (3-4)h.
- Oblique patch lock. The bars are joined along an inclined plane (at an angle of no more than 40 degrees), on which a step is made. The length of the docking section (3.5-5)h.
- "Dovetail". At the ends of the bars, a spike and a groove of an appropriate, trapezoidal shape are cut out.
- tongue and groove connection. At the ends of the bars in the center, grooves are cut into which, after joining, a wooden tongue is driven in.
To strengthen the joint, mating surfaces covered with glue. Additionally, it can be strengthened with screws or nails.
Gusset
The formation of the corner of the house is considered an important operation responsible for the reliability and appearance of the entire log house. That is why this element is normalized GOST 30974-2002.
The following methods are provided:
- Butt (butt). This is the simplest but least reliable connection. The end of the beam simply rests against the side face of another beam. The next crown closes the connection.
- "Half a tree" or "half a beam". Exactly half of the timber is cut out at the ends of the joined elements, and then these sections are articulated.
- "Warm Corner". The previous options create through channels where cold can penetrate. The elimination of "cold bridges" can be ensured by the formation of a connection according to the " root spike», « dovetail», corner with remainder. In the first case, the tenon-groove principle with a rectangular profile is used. "Dovetail" has the same principle, but the connection elements are trapezoidal. When creating a corner with the remainder, one beam is cut into another, and their ends are brought out of the wall surface.
The formation of the pier
Inserting the wall into the main crowns of the log house can be provided in the following ways:
- root thorn T-shape.
- « Dovetail».
- « Into the bowl". This joint profile is cut under production conditions. When buying a complete set of beams for a typical house, the connection is made according to the instructions.
Fastening the timber with dowels
The crowns of the log house during installation are fastened with wooden dowels. They are a wooden rod with a diameter of 16 - 22 mm and a length of 1.5 - 2 timber heights.
The diameter of this element should exceed the size of the hole in the bars by 3-5 mm. Installation of dowels is carried out taking into account such nuances:
- A hole is drilled in three bars. It should start in the middle of the lowest beam, pass through the middle crown and end in the middle of the third beam.
- Nagel is driven into this hole with a mallet, connecting 3 crowns together.
- The first hole is drilled at a distance of at least 20-25 cm from the end of the beam. With its closer location, there is a risk of splitting the wood when driving in the dowel.
- The installation step of the dowels is 1.4-2.2 m.
- The dowel should not reach the bottom of the hole to ensure shrinkage.
Insulation options during installation
The seam between the crowns is the site of the probable " bridge of cold", which requires insulation. It is believed that it can be dispensed with only if using the "German comb" as a lock profile. But even in this case it is better to make an external caulk of the seam.
In other versions, along the entire length of the bars, a heat-insulating fibrous material is placed in the groove - jute, linen. The thickness of such a gasket should not exceed 5-8 mm.
Roof
The roof of a house made of timber is made on the basis of a truss system and, as a rule, has a gable design.
The following stages are distinguished:
- Installation of ceiling beams. For this, a beam of 15x10 cm is used. The beams cut into the upper crown of the log house. The tie-in points are reinforced with dowels or anchors. Beam installation step - 60-80 cm.
- Installation of rafter legs. For rafters, a beam of 10x10, 15x5 or 10x15 cm is used. The angle of the roof slope depends on the intensity of precipitation and the type of attic. From above, the rafter triangles are connected by a ridge. Braces, crossbars, racks are used as reinforcing elements. The installation step of the rafters is 80-100 cm.
- crate. It is made of unedged board, which is fixed on the rafters.
- Roof waterproofing. Roofing material is laid on top of the crate. If a warm attic is being made, then a heater (mineral wool) is applied under the waterproofing.
- Roofing installation.
- wooden flooring, draft ceiling. Laying thermal insulation and vapor barrier. Draft, attic flooring.
Installation of individual elements
When building a house, it is impossible to do without some specific elements. They create certain nuances in the process of work:
- Window and door openings. These openings are formed by installing an appropriate wooden box. A compensation gap is left between it and the wall, which eliminates the risk of deformation of windows and doors during the natural shrinkage of the structure. This space should not be filled with mounting foam. A suitable material is considered to be a fibrous insulation in a vapor-tight wrap.
- Vertical elements. These include columns and various support posts or pillars. In order to avoid destruction during shrinkage, they are placed on an adjustable base (jack).
- Roofing details. To compensate for the shrinkage load in the rafters, a sliding element is provided at the place of their attachment to the log house. In some cases, the possibility of slippage is also provided in the region of the ridge.
- Stairs. It is installed to get into the attic (mansard) or in a two-story house. It is recommended to carry out the final installation after the complete shrinkage of the wooden structure (after 10-12 months). The bearing element of the stairs is a bowstring or kosour, which are fixed between the floor and ceiling (interfloor) ceiling.
Attention. Stair elements are not recommended to be fixed to the frame, so as not to create mutual loads during shrinkage.
Interior decoration of the house
As an interior decoration of walls made of timber, it is often used, mounted on a crate with insulation or directly on the surface of the log house, as well as a plaster coating. Both options can be done only after complete shrinkage of the wood.
It is especially pointless to make plaster or apply ahead of time. The coating will simply crack within a year, and the tile will fly off.
Exterior wall treatment
External processing of a block log house is also necessary. For protection, they use impregnation and coating agents:
- Compositions for ensuring biological and fire safety. Recommended - OZONE-007, Senezh, Phenilax, Neomid.
- Antiseptics - Senezh, Aquatex primer, Nortex concentrate.
- Impregnation compounds with a decorative effect - Senezh-Aquadecor, Krasula.
How is the value of a home determined?
The price of a finished modest, typical house for shrinkage from profiled timber is from 400 thousand rubles and higher.
Houses made of profiled timber are becoming more common in different regions of the country. The simplicity and speed of construction, as well as other advantages, ensure their popularity among people of different incomes.
The erection of walls from a bar begins without pre-assembly, the assembly begins immediately at the construction site of a house or bath, in contrast to the erection of walls from logs. For the construction of timber, two main methods of corner joints are used - “into the corner” and “with the remainder”. Mezhventsovye connections are made using wooden dowels in the form of a circle with a diameter of three centimeters.
The choice of technology, in this case, involves the choice of a method for assembling walls, consider three main methods. First, for those who do not know yet, it is worth noting that timber is a finished building material that is made from logs, usually conifers, and is sawn from four sides in the factory. When choosing a bar, they try to get dry and even bars. The width of the timber at a temperature of -40 ° C should be at least 18 centimeters, and at -30 ° C - at least 15 centimeters. The lumber assembly technology is simpler than the construction of walls from logs. They are less labor-intensive and affordable for self-construction, because there is no need for carpentry skills. With little work skills, a private developer can easily assemble a house from a bar with his own hands.
Of course, like the construction of any other house, the construction of a block house begins with the preparation of the foundation, after which the first crown is installed on it, the corner connection of which is made “in half a tree”, regardless of the method of corner connections you choose. After that, they either continue to erect “in half a tree”, or collect it “in a dressing with a root spike” or match the bars with dowels. The same technology for erecting chopped walls - a heater made of moss, tow, hemp or felt is laid between each layer of timber. Walls made of timber, in comparison with log walls, have one drawback: unlike a round groove in a log house, in bars a horizontal seam is filled with moisture when it is exposed to precipitation. If it is not supposed to sheathe the walls erected from the timber with finishing materials, then chamfers of about 20x20 millimeters are made on the upper edge of each timber to improve water drainage.
Assembly technologies
Half-tree joining is a method that gets its name from the removal of the lower and upper half of its array at the corner joints of the beams.
Such an assembly begins with making holes in the corners of the beams for installing the dowel so that each dowel can connect several beams at once. After the first crown, which is connected by pins in the corners, is laid, a sealant is placed on it, after which the next crown is placed. As soon as the connection of the corners of the second crown is completed, the crowns begin to rally together. A dowel is driven into the second crown, which should enter the first crown by half its length. If the tool used allows you to make holes for three thicknesses of the crown, then the pin is riveted to the rhinestone with three crowns. If you do not take special measures, then this beam assembly technology gives very strong blowing in the corner joints of the structure. In order to reduce the ventilation of corner joints, grooves are made and dense wood inserts are fixed. If, when assembling the walls “in half a tree”, you leave the edges of the bars, you can get an assembly “with a remainder”, which is much less commonly used.
The assembly of walls by tying the beams with a root spike begins with making holes in the corner joints of the first crown under the dowel, which is connected “in half a tree”. As soon as the first crown is laid, the method of fixing the angles changes. In order to connect the corners by tying them with a root spike, the end of one beam is processed in the same way as in the figure, and a special groove is made at the end of the second beam. The technology for connecting the crowns is no different from the “half-tree” assembly. However, the root tenon greatly reduces the ventilation of the corner joints, which makes the walls warmer. But in order to achieve this, the grooves and spikes must be very tightly connected.
Assembly of cobbled walls on dowels
The assembly of walls using dowels also begins with the assembly of the first crown using the “half-tree” method. After that, the assembly of the walls begins with the use of dowels in the corner joints. To connect the corners at both ends of the bars, grooves are cut out, and dowels are inserted into them, which should fit very tightly to each other. The locations of the veneers and joints alternate through each crown so that the finished corner looks like the corner shown in the figure when assembling the walls by tying them with a root spike. Very often, nails with a length of no less than the width of one and a half crowns are used to connect the crowns of the timber, which greatly saves time. Also, to simplify the assembly of walls using spikes, metal plates two to three centimeters wide are used instead of wooden spikes.
- The first crown should be started with assembly in the “half-tree” way. After two or three crowns, this method can be repeated;
- The location of the wedge should be alternated. Alternation is not required when the wedge is made on both sides;
- A few years later, after the main shrinkage of the walls has occurred, it is necessary to caulk the walls - close up all the seams;
- Instead of using tow between the crowns when building walls from a log house, it is worth using ready-made materials, which will greatly simplify the process of assembling a house from a bar.
And in conclusion, the technology of building from timber is in no way inferior to the construction of walls from chopped logs. This material is also very environmentally friendly and comfortable, moreover, it is more technologically advanced, if you pay attention to the process of further finishing work.
The technology of assembling a log house from a bar for a house or a bath
Organization of the workplace for the assembly of walls
In order for the work to be argued, the bars are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5-6 meters from the building on one or better - on its two sides. Each layer of beams in a stack is laid on pads of boards.
A workplace for marking and cutting beams is equipped next to the stack. A variant of the arrangement of such a workplace is shown in the figure.
It is convenient to mark the beam using a template at a height of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the marking area, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered onto low linings in the cutting area. In this position, it is convenient and safe to saw the timber with a chain saw.
The cut beam is lifted onto the wall. To facilitate lifting, slopes are arranged - inclined bars, which rest with their upper end on the upper crown of the log house. The beam is moved along the slopes with a rope.
Wedge-shaped stops are nailed to the slopes, which make lifting the timber safer. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to manage with small forces. Even one person can, if necessary, lift the beam, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.
It is most convenient to carry out work on assembling a log house from a bar by a team of four people. You can work together, just work will go slower.
For the installation of the upper rims of the log house and the roof, scaffolding is constructed.
Three-tier scaffolding on the pediment of the house. 1
— Rack extreme; 2
- l-shaped rack of the scaffolding of the first tier on the side facade; 3
- flooring; 4
— Rack central; 5
- cruciform braces (shown conditionally); 6
- bosses The assembly of the upper crowns of the log house is carried out from the level of the first tier. The flooring of the first tier is laid on g - shaped racks, pos. 2 in the figure. Racks are installed around the walls of the house and attached to the walls with the help of bosses, pos.6.
At the stage of erection of the roof (attic), on the facades, where the device of gables is necessary, it is necessary to make scaffolding in three tiers. For the construction of scaffolding racks, boards 50 x 150 are used mm. Flooring is made from the same boards.
It is more convenient, faster and safer to work from scaffolding than from ladders - do not forget about it.
Marking bars for wall assembly
Practical construction experience shows that it is not realistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints.
Before starting work, they draw a scheme for assembling the walls of the house, on which they indicate: the serial number of the crown, the type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, the position of the openings in the wall.
An example of a house wall assembly scheme is shown in the figure:
Scheme for marking the corner joints of the beam and the joints of the details of the longitudinal walls, for a house with overall dimensions of 6x9 meters. BUT and FROM- longitudinal walls; D and B- transverse walls; E- an inner wall made of timber - a partition; 1
- joints of beams. At the house, which is shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 pieces of bars with a length of 3 to 6 m.
The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main timber of a standard length of 6 meters and an extension, 3 meters long. On one crown, long bars are laid on the left, and extensions on the right. On the next crown, laying begins in the same order, but on the right.
The details of the crown of the transverse wall and the partition are made from one bar of a standard length of 6 meters.
To exclude cold bridges in the outer walls, the joints of the beams of the longitudinal wall, item 1, are performed by making vertical cuts “to the floor of the tree” with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The beam in the corners of the crowns is connected into a dressing with a root spike (for more details, see below).
How to correctly and quickly mark spikes, grooves and other profiles, ensure identical dimensions of timber blanks?
The easiest way to do this is with templates. The template is applied to the beam and the contour of the template profiles is transferred to the surface of the beam with a marker.
It is more convenient, faster to mark and there will be fewer errors if the template completely repeats the contour of the part, has the same length as the part to be marked. I put a template on the beam and immediately transferred all the dimensions and profiles to the workpiece.
For our example, it will be necessary to make seven templates, according to the number of parts in the crown. One template marks two mirrored parts of the walls.
If you think about it, the number of templates can be reduced. Consider how to make universal templates for marking the details of the longitudinal walls of the house (see the wall assembly diagram above).
Two templates (highlighted in bright yellow) for marking the timber of the longitudinal walls. 4
- a groove for a root spike; 5
- groove for the spike of the inner wall; 6
- sample; 7
- dobor bar. The picture above shows the template. for marking the main beam in the crown, in which the extension is located on the right. On the wall layout diagram, these are crowns A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.
bottom template serves for marking the main beam in the crowns with an extension on the left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.
At first glance, the templates are the same, but differ in that the grooves, pos.5, for connection with the partition, are located in different places of the templates.
The same templates are used to mark the details of the extensions. To do this, on patterns at points b and With through holes are drilled, and at points a and d incisions have been made.
To mark the extension, the template is applied to the timber and points are pricked through the holes and cuts on the surface of the workpiece.
Remember this technique with the device holes in the template. This will help you create generic templates in many other cases.
The templates are made from planed "inch" boards.
As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse ones). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to harvest parts for transverse walls and partitions.
And now let's consider how templates are used. To mark the first beam of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is placed on the beam and the end of the template is circled with a marker on the left, then two grooves and, finally, a selection for the connection “to the floor of the tree”. The marked beam is transferred to the place of cutting, where unnecessary fragments (they are better when marking out
hatch) cut out with a chainsaw.
How to mark details with spikes? Obviously, the tongue and groove are elements of the same node, which means they must correspond to each other in size and location. In a detail with a spike, a spike is marked in place of the groove.
If the groove dimensions are 5×5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with interventional insulation.
The profile of the template is transferred to the upper face of the beam. The markings are transferred to the vertical edge of the beam using a square. According to this markup, accurate cuts are carried out.
How to assemble smooth walls from a bar of different widths
Specifications (TS) for the manufacture of timber allow deviation of the size of the timber in one direction or another from the standard value specified in the documents.
If the purchase documents indicate the standard dimensions of the timber, for example, section 150x150 mm. and a length of 6 meters, the actual dimensions will differ from the standard.
Each bar, in a batch of timber brought to the construction site, will differ from the dimensions indicated in the documents by several millimeters. The cross-sectional dimensions and length of the bars will be different.
Dimensional variation must be taken into account when developing templates, marking timber and assembling walls.
How to assemble even walls if the timber is different in width and length?
b- the minimum width of the beam; delta b- the difference between narrow and wide beams. Obviously, from a beam of different widths, only one surface of the wall can be made even - either from the outside or from the inside of the building.
If they want to make a smooth wall of the house outside, then all the bars in the wall are aligned along the outer edge. Then inside the house, wide bars will protrude from the wall by the amount of "delta b"(difference between narrow and wide bars). Alignment on the outer edge leads to an increase in the gaps in the corner connection of the bars (see figure).
If the bars in the wall are aligned along the inner edge, then the "steps" of the protruding beams will already be on the outer surface of the wall. The wall outside is usually sheathed. And if you chamfer the outer edges of the beam, then the steps on the wall will be invisible even without sheathing. The corner joints of the beams are more dense, "warm".
How and with what to connect the crowns of the log house
Each log crown is connected to the lower crown with metal or wooden dowels. Nagels are located at a distance of approximately 250-300 mm from the end of the beam and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the beam.
Each detail of the crown is fixed with at least two dowels. The length of the dowel must be at least 1.5 times the height of the beam.
cm., pos. one. Dowels made of round steel with a diameter of 6-8 mm.- pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mm), they simply hammer into the bars of the crowns with a hammer, an option a on the image.
The upper ends of the dowels of any material must be deepened into the beam by 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then when the beam dries and the log shrinks, the dowels will be higher than the beam and raise the upper crown. A large gap is formed between the crowns.
For the same reason it is impossible to make clogged dowels from reinforcing steel. The corrugated surface of such dowels will keep the beams of the crowns from moving during the shrinkage of the log house, even if the dowel is deepened into the beam. The crowns will simply hang on such dowels.
Small-diameter driven steel dowels cannot always provide the necessary wall rigidity, especially with long wall spans. Their use can be recommended for small buildings - for example, baths. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install dowels of increased diameter.
Steel pins with a diameter of 10 or more millimeters, as well as wooden pins, are inserted into holes pre-drilled in the timber. The diameter of the holes is made slightly smaller than the diameter of the dowel.
With a tight fit of the dowel in the hole, the rigidity of the wall increases, but the risk that the dowels will interfere with the shrinkage of the log house increases.
Wooden pins with a diameter of 25-30 mm it is convenient to cut from round cuttings for the tool. Such cuttings are made from hardwoods. It is recommended to chamfer the lower end of the dowel - it will be easier to drive the dowel into the hole.
Can be cut from a regular "inch" board dowels of square section 25x25 mm. Chamfers are removed from one end of the workpiece. Such pins are hammered into a hole made with a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.
The ribs of such a dowel made of relatively “soft” coniferous wood are crushed during nailing, the wood is compacted, providing a fairly tight fit of the dowel in the hole.
How to drill holes in a beam for dowels
The depth of the holes in the wall for the installation of dowels must exceed at least 4 cm. dowel length. Moreover, the hole must be free from chips.
To drill holes in a beam, deep enough and of large diameter, a low-speed electric drill (drill) is usually used. The passport of a power tool usually indicates what diameter of drilling in a particular material the drill is designed for. Given the large drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a power reserve.
To drill holes in the timber, it is convenient to equip the drill with an emphasis, as shown in the figure.
The stop bar is attached to the drill with steel clamps. The emphasis, in the form of a wooden block, is attached to the drill, for example, with clamps. The stop stops drilling at the required depth, but the rotation of the drill does not stop after that. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill clears the hole of chips, grinds and then easily gets out of the deep hole.
It is convenient to drill holes for connecting the crowns in a bar that is already installed on the wall in the design position on the interventional insulation. But usually here a problem arises - the interventional gasket cannot be drilled. The fibers of the gasket material are simply wrapped around the drill and clamped.
You have to install the beam on the wall in two steps. First, the beam is mounted without a gasket and temporarily fixed from displacement, for example, with nails. Drill holes for dowels. Then the timber is shifted from the wall and interventional insulation is laid.
In places of drilling cut the lining with a sharp knife. Then, the removed beam is reinstalled in place, already on the gasket, and fixed with dowels.
Drilling holes in a beam laid on a wall should be done while standing on a solid foundation - scaffolding, scaffolding, flooring. Standing on a narrow wall and drilling is dangerous. The drill can "bite", a powerful drill will turn around and easily throw the worker off the wall.
How to make a flat wall from a curved beam
In the beam brought to the construction site, part of the beams may turn out to be curved. The beam may have curvature in one plane, or twist with a screw and become diamond-shaped in cross section.
If possible, then it is better not to use curved bars for the walls of a house or a bath. Bars with curvature are recommended to be cut into smaller pieces and used in other, less critical places.
A small amount of timber that has a curvature in one plane can be used to mount walls. You should not lay such a beam in the wall with a bulge up or down, in the hope that it will straighten out under the weight of the house - the beam will not straighten out, even if it is placed in the lower crowns.
The curved beam is laid into the wall, straightening it in a horizontal plane as shown in the figure.
The curved beam is straightened sequentially by fixing it with dowels A curved beam is drilled, combining it at the drilling points with a straight beam. After laying the interventional insulation, the curved beam is fixed with a dowel at one end and, unbending, is sequentially fixed with dowels at other points.
It does not take much effort to unbend the beam. To facilitate the work will help the lever and bracket
Mezhventsovy gasket - insulation, sealant
For and cold, a gasket is laid between the crowns. Previously, moss or linen tow was used for this. Currently, special gasket materials based on flax or flax jute are commercially available. The material is sold as a roll of tape with a width of 20 cm.
A strip of cushioning material is laid along the entire upper edge of the beam in two or three layers and fixed with staples using a construction stapler.
If the wall is not sheathed, then the gasket should stand 1-2 from the outer edge of the beam. cm. otherwise it will get wet.
Some craftsmen lay the cushioning material in one layer and offer to caulk the joints after shrinking the log house, adding an additional amount of material to the voids of the joints. In this embodiment, we have a lower consumption of gasket material.
The work of caulking joints is quite laborious and tedious. It is better to immediately lay the seal thicker, in several layers (three layers), to eliminate the need for caulking horizontal joints.
How to control the correct assembly of the log house
In the process of building a house or a bath, it is necessary to regularly check the correct assembly of a log house from a bar. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:
- Verticality of corners.
- Height of corners and walls.
- The horizontality of the crowns and the upper faces of the timber.
- The straightness of the walls.
- The quality of laying interventional insulation.
For control of the verticality of the corners apply the following method.
To control the verticality of the angle, a vertical line is applied on each side of the crown. 1
- bottom trim; 2
- crowns; 3
- control lines; 4
- plinth. On each side of the crown, at the same distance from the corner edge, draw a vertical line.
With the correct laying of the crowns, this line should be straight and coincide with the vertical. The verticality of the line is checked by a plumb line.
If deviations are found, then the work is suspended and the cause is eliminated.
The height of corners and walls is measured roulette. The measurement is taken from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping beam using a water level.
Horizontal rims and top faces the timber is checked for level.
Straightness of walls determined visually by pulling a cord along the wall.
Especially carefully and constantly check the verticality and height of the corners. Deviations from verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the beam in the crown. The height of the corners is adjusted by increasing the thickness of the gasket between the crowns in the settled corners. Sometimes it helps if you knock with a sledgehammer on a beam in a high corner.
The quality and thickness of the laying of interventional insulation is checked visually by examining the walls.
Window and door openings in a log house
From the second crown, doorways begin to form. The distance from the floor level to the window is chosen within 70 - 90 cm.
Laying timber in the crowns in the zone of openings has its own characteristics.
a
- layout of openings in the wall, where: 1
- wall; 2
- door opening; 3
- pier; 4
- window opening. in
- scheme for cutting timber, where c - the remainder of the cutting. G
- a variant of the opening device in the log house with the installation of temporary fastening beams, pos.7. d
- an option with the installation of decks in the opening, pos.6 - we immediately get an opening ready for installing a door or window. In practice, two options are used for the formation of openings when assembling a log house.
One option is " G" on the image. The opening is made in a draft version, only preparation is made to create an opening. The opening is prepared for the installation of doors and windows not immediately during the assembly of the log house. This work is left for later - usually done after shrinkage of the log house.
This option allows you to speed up the assembly of the log house. Bars must be installed in the opening, fastening the wall with a log house, pos.7 in the figure. At least two such bars are installed in the doorway.
In the process of shrinkage of the log house, the walls can “take away” inward or outward. To prevent this the timber in the piers is fastened with vertically installed boards.
In another variant - d» in the figure, the openings are immediately prepared for the installation of doors and windows. To do this, decks (pigtails) are installed in the openings - a vertical beam with a groove, pos.6 in the figure. The spike of the wall beam enters the groove. In this way, the beam of the pier is fixed from displacement. In this version, the openings are immediately ready for the installation of doors and windows.
Decks (pigtails) traditionally serve not only to connect the timber in the opening, but also serve as window slopes, window sills. To do this, they are carefully processed, curly chamfers are removed.
Option for installing a window in a wall made of timber: 1 - finishing the window slopes; 2 - a board of a vertical pigtail with a rail - a spike, enters the groove of the wall beam; 3 - plastic window frame; 4 - sealing tape PSUL In modern conditions, when installing plastic windows and arranging plastic slopes and window sills, decks (pigtail) can be omitted. The bars in the opening are fastened like this. A vertical groove is cut out at the ends of the bars along the entire length of the opening and a rail is inserted there, which fixes the bars of the wall from displacement.
The length of the deck (pigtail) or rail should be less than the height of the opening by 5-7 cm so as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.
Timber for houses, baths in your city
How to install windows in a timber wall
If the opening in the wall was made in a draft version (see above), then the installation of the window begins with sawing the opening to the desired size. To do this, a rail is stuffed along the border of the cut, item 2 in the figure, and the bars are sawn off with a chain saw along the edge of the rail.
Proper installation of a window in a wall made of timber. 1
- wall; 2
- rail; 3
- platband; 4
- window; 5
- window box; 6
- wall beam above the window; 7
— mezhventsovy heater; 8
- shrinkage gap above the window and deck; 9
- window frames; 10
- wall beam (wall); 11
- deck; 12
- nail. Then, with a circular saw, spikes are cut out at the ends of the bars of the wall (wall). On the spikes, pos.10, a deck is placed with a groove, pos.11. The joints are sealed with insulation. The deck is nailed to the wall beam with nails hammered at an angle, pos. 12. So the nails will not interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.
A window box is inserted into the opening thus prepared, which is attached to the deck with self-tapping screws. Above the window frame be sure to leave a gap, pos.8, to compensate for the shrinkage of the log house. Gap size 5-7 cm. The gap is filled with soft insulating material.
The compensation gap must also be left above the upper end of the deck.
Similarly, openings are prepared and inserted into the walls from the timber of the door.
After the assembly of the first floor of the house is completed, the log house is covered with beams of interfloor or attic (if the building is one-story) ceiling.
Can be a constructive element. And they can perform an independent function.
The next page describes the construction of a sloping roof of a house made of timber, where floor beams simultaneously serve as an element of the mansard roof's load-bearing frame.
Watch the video clip, which describes in some detail and shows the technology for installing a log house from a construction beam.
The construction of a wooden dwelling requires carpentry skills and appropriate carpentry tools. The construction process consists of several stages, not too complicated, but very responsible. Before you assemble a house from a bar, you should carefully study the technology, choose the right material and make calculations. This will help not only to qualitatively complete the task, but also to reduce construction costs.
Site preparation and foundation construction
For the construction of a log house, a strip foundation is best suited. They begin work with site preparation: they remove high vegetation and stones, level all recesses and mounds, make markings. According to the marking, they dig a trench with a width of 25 cm, the depth of the trench depends on the quality of the soil on the site and the height of the building. The beam is a relatively light building material, and therefore a one-story house made of timber can be installed on a shallow foundation. If it is planned to build 2 floors or the soil under the house is too loose and unstable, the depth of the foundation should correspond to the depth of soil freezing, from 1.2 to 1.5 m.
Types of timber and logs.
For the manufacture of the foundation you will need:
- crushed stone and sand;
- concrete mortar;
- boards or plywood for formwork;
- iron bars for reinforcement;
- building level.
Crushed stone with sand is poured into the prepared trench, and then a reinforcing mesh is formed from the rods. It is not recommended to use welding to connect the rods; it is better to take a knitting wire. Formwork is fixed on the sides of the trench and concrete mortar is poured. If it is not possible to buy a ready-made solution, you need to mix cement with sand and gravel in a ratio of 1: 3: 4; the grade of cement should be 400 or 500. It takes about 2 weeks to stand the foundation.
Laying the first row
The frame of a wooden house from a bar.
Related article: We consider all the properties of GF 021 and other similar mixtures
For a log house, it is necessary to choose only whole even bars without visible defects. The first crown should consist of the strongest timber cut from the core of the tree. This can be determined by the density and arrangement of the rings on the cut. It is very important that the wood is dry and light - beams with dark spots or gray cuts are not suitable for a log house.
During the installation process, the following materials and tools will be needed:
- ruberoid;
- liquid bituminous mixture;
- antiseptic;
- wooden dowels;
- plane;
- drill;
- a hammer;
- hacksaw.
The surface of the foundation tape is covered with liquid bitumen, on which roofing material is laid. Such waterproofing reliably protects the house from a bar from the penetration of moisture from the foundation and extends its service life several times. The width of the roofing material should be 20-30 cm more than the width of the foundation, so that its edges hang over the same distance on both sides. At the joints, the material is overlapped by 7-10 cm, thickly coated with bitumen and pressed firmly.
Beam fastener.
When assembling the first row, you need to decide on the type of corner joints. The most economical option is the “half-tree” connection, when the upper part is cut out at the lower beam, and the lower part at the upper one. With this method of fastening, less material is consumed, the ends of the bars do not go beyond the corners of the building. Before starting the assembly, all wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic and dried, and then holes for the dowels are drilled. These holes should be located along the beam every one and a half meters.
After processing the building material, they begin laying the first crown. First, the first 2 beams are laid out on the foundation from two opposite sides, then 2 more with cut grooves at the ends are lowered on top of them at a right angle. The corners are tightly adjusted with a sledgehammer and the entire row is leveled, the protruding sections should be corrected with a planer.
Arrangement of floor coverings
Floor for the house from a glued bar.
Related article: Strip foundation: types and features
When the first row of the log house is laid and fixed, it is necessary to mount the floors for the floor and the base of the load-bearing walls. During the installation process you will need:
- wooden beams with a section of 150x100 mm;
- hacksaw;
- a hammer;
- level and tape measure.
In two opposite bars, shallow grooves are cut from the inside every 40 cm. Experts recommend cutting not rectangular, but T-shaped grooves, the ends of the beams are cut accordingly. This tie-in method is called "dovetail" and is used to increase the strength of the frame connections with internal partitions and ceilings; You can make such grooves using a manual milling machine. When installing floor beams, it is imperative to check their horizontalness with a building level. All beams must be in the same plane, otherwise the floor of the log house will be skewed.
The erection of the walls of the building
The device of a wall from a bar.
The next step is building walls. For work you will need:
- timber;
- insulation;
- building level;
- pins;
- hacksaw;
- chainsaw.
In order for the assembly of the walls to be of the highest quality, special attention should be paid to connecting the corners. There are several ways of bandaging a log house: in a bowl, in a paw, on a root spike. The first 2 options are used for round logs, while the third method is ideal for a rectangular beam. Dressing on the root tenon is somewhat laborious, but at the same time it gives the maximum density of the joints. The process itself looks like this: at the ends of one beam, 2/3 of its thickness is cut off, leaving an even rectangular spike. At the ends of another beam, a groove of the appropriate size is cut out, into which the spike will enter. After joining, the bars are fastened with dowels to the previous row and the next.
In each row, the arrangement of grooves and spikes should alternate.
Nagels are metal and wooden; when building a log house with your own hands, it is better to use wooden fasteners. The standard thickness of the pins is 25 mm, the height is from 120 to 150 mm. It is recommended to drill holes for fasteners 2-3 cm deeper. The walls are assembled according to the following scheme: a row is laid, corner joints are adjusted, a heater is laid on top along the perimeter, the next crown is laid and dowels are driven in.
