Floor insulation pie along the lags. Floor insulation pie in a wooden house. Use of heat reflective plates

40% of the heat goes outside from the heated room through the walls and floor. The lack of insulation leads to an increase in electricity bills, an inefficient use of resources and discomfort in winter and autumn. floor insulation cake wooden house is a multi-layer structure that protects the foundation of the house, excludes heat leakage and guarantees comfort and convenience.

Insulation material selection criteria

When purchasing building material, you need to pay attention to environmental friendliness and wear resistance. Harmful fumes, dust, smell will cause poisoning, deterioration of well-being in people and pets. The service life of the insulation must match the duration of operation finish coat. Otherwise, you will have to repair the filler by dismantling the laminate, parquet or linoleum, which will cause damage. Waterproofing precedes the laying of insulation and helps to preserve its properties. It protects against moisture, mold, fungus. Microorganisms reduce the service life of foundation materials, cause unpleasant odors and are harmful to health. The installation process of the insulation begins after fixing the screed and pouring or at the time of laying the finishing floor covering. The type of material depends on the moment of installation.

What ingredients are included in the floor insulation pie?

- the base (foundation) of the box of the house. concrete blocks common as a base surface. Before laying the floor, the base is cleaned of dust, dirt, paint, varnish, solvents;
- a draft layer of wooden boards;
- waterproofing;
- a heater;
- vapor barrier;
- wooden boards;
— soundproofing;
- finishing decorative layer.

The absence of a layer will lead to problems during the operation of the house. Without waterproofing, the foundation will gradually rot; without soundproofing, silence in the room is not worth waiting for. An incorrectly laid heat-insulating layer will cause drafts along the cold bridges.

For insulation, double floor technology is used. The first layer is laid draft boards, 20mm thick. A substandard board will do. The draft layer does not need to be reinforced with lags. By means of self-tapping screws, a crate is installed, boards are laid on it. The rough floor should be treated with an antiseptic and it is not recommended to leave gaps of more than 1 cm between the boards. Next is the waterproofing. Joints are sealed with adhesive tape. Logs are installed, empty compartments are clogged with insulation. The next step is to lay the vapor barrier and finish the floor covering.

Builders resort to a different method of warming the floor of a wooden house along the logs. They are fixed at a distance of 50 cm to the base or to the log house, the same subfloor is laid and the voids are insulated with material. Does not exclude the need for hydro and vapor barrier. At the end of the work fit finishing layer. It is not necessary to lay the logs on the foundation, they can rest on brick posts. Due to this technology, the space from the foundation to the finishing flooring is increased.

To lay the floor insulation pie in a wooden house, you need to buy: logs without defects and deformation, antiseptic, adhesive tape, bars, wooden boards, insulation material, vapor barrier, waterproofing agent, self-tapping screws, finishing coating materials.

Materials for warming the floor of a wooden house

The efficiency of the cake, the service life, and the method of laying depend on the type of material. The construction industry is developing every day, and today it is not difficult to choose the right insulation.

- expanded clay. Falls asleep during installation wooden formwork or during the insulation of the house from the basement. It has a low cost, easily fits without building skill, levels the surface, is an environmentally friendly material. Expanded clay is obtained from shale by firing. Thermal conductivity index 0.12W/m*K. A layer of 10 cm is enough to ensure comfort and coziness. Such a layer is identical in characteristics to an array of wood of greater thickness. The density of expanded clay is 250-60 kg per cubic meter. The material has good refractoriness, heat resistance, does not lose its characteristics under the influence of low temperatures. Before laying, the probable load on the floor is calculated, the required layer thickness is determined. Deep roughnesses of the base are eliminated, waterproofing is laid. The floor on the logs with their subsequent dismantling is insulated after laying a layer of roofing material and then expanded clay is poured. If the logs are supposed to be left, then the roofing material is laid only in the gaps between the structures. The next layer of the cake includes foil, additional thermal insulation in the form of foam and filling cement screed. In the case of attaching the log to a brick base, expanded clay is poured into the compartments and the flooring and standard layers of the cake are laid on top.

- penoplex. Is different high density 38kg/cu.m., low thermal conductivity 0.030 W/m*0С, hygroscopicity 0.4% of the total volume per day, good sound insulation up to 41dB. It is produced in the form of plates with a width of 600mm, a length of 1200mm. Sheet thickness from 20 to 100 mm. The material does not have toxic fumes, is durable, resistant to water, does not become a home for the reproduction of microorganisms, fungus, mold. More than expanded clay. The insulation is mounted on a sand cushion from the side of the door. For sealing, the joints are glued with metallized tape.

— mineral wool. It is distinguished by increased vapor permeability, thermal conductivity of 0.032 W / m * K, and has a fibrous structure. Easy to fit, has long term service, does not wrinkle and does not crumple with time of operation. Quantity harmful impurities in the composition does not exceed the threshold minimum allowed for use in residential premises.

- sawdust. Outdated budget way, receding into the past due to the appearance of rodents in the presence small cracks at the base. Thermal conductivity 0.065 W/m*K. The advantages are availability, environmental friendliness and availability in any volumes. The release of compressed sawdust in the form of granules impregnated with an antiseptic solution improves performance characteristics material.

- polystyrene foam. Does not deform during use, easy to fit, cut to size, safe for health, has an extended service life, is not afraid of moisture, fireproof, does not rot. Material density 25-40 kg/cu.m., thermal conductivity 0.042 W/m*K. The material is made from styrene granules filled with gas and treated at high temperatures. Extruded polystyrene foam is resistant to mechanical stress. Expanded polystyrene is laid between the beams-lags, the layer thickness is not less than 10 cm. It is important to leave gaps for expansion of the material under the influence high temperatures. Improves sound insulation, retains heat inside the house.

- polyurethane foam. It is applied in a thin layer and hardens in 10 minutes. Density 8-100 kg/cu.m. The thermal conductivity index is 0.028 W / m * K, the service life is 25-50 years. The material has little weight, eco-friendly, unaffected chemical compounds, not afraid of moisture, low temperatures.

- isolon. It is in demand due to its low cost, thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.040 W / m * K, vapor permeability of 0.001 mg / m * h * Pa and the possibility of using it at temperatures from -80 to + 800C. Universal material, easy to fit into hard-to-reach places, safe for humans. Includes a composition of polyethylene foam and a reflective layer of aluminum foil.

- thermofoam. Required for sealing air gaps, thermal conductivity index 0.033W/m*K, eco-friendly composition according to European standards. The basis of the material is waste paper and additive mixtures.

Be sure to leave a gap of 10 cm between the insulation and the floor for air circulation. During the design of the foundation of the house, it is necessary to calculate the amount of material for insulation and determine the installation technology to eliminate errors. Heaters with a minimum weight (mineral wool, expanded polystyrene) are easier to install similar products.

The vapor barrier layer will protect the insulation from creating the effect of a "plastic bag". Errors associated with ignoring the waterproofing layer cost expensive re-repair and waste of material. The process of laying the insulation cake is consistent, does not tolerate non-hermetic joints and holes. On a level surface, the layers are laid easier and faster.

The foundation is poured, the walls are raised, the roof is mounted and windows with doors are installed. You can also start laying the floors in a wooden house with your own hands. The stage of work is not difficult, but requires a careful approach to details.

Proper laying of the floor cake is the key to its long service life. A small mistake with waterproofing is enough and you will have to re-lay the entire coating in a few years. Lack of ventilation of the subfloor will lead to the same result. And without insulation, you will not only have to walk around the house in warm slippers, but also fork out for additional heating costs.

Draft floor - what is it?

It is important to protect a wooden house from moisture - rotting makes building elements unusable very quickly. Therefore, you should not cut logs into the first crown of the log house, even if they are made of larch and treated with an antiseptic - in any case, they will have to be changed sometime. It is optimal to lay the logs on the foundation and fix them after the walls have been raised.

It is also important to ensure good ventilation subfloor, organizing sufficient air ducts in the basement or foundation. According to the regulations, in the subfield without forced ventilation the area of ​​the vents should correspond to 1:400 of the subfloor area. Otherwise, regardless of the waterproofing measures, the picture under the house will be unpleasant.

When the flooring is ready, you can start warming. But before laying the insulation, it is worth resolving the issue of protecting it from moisture - after all, wet mineral wool not only does not retain heat, but also contributes to the formation of fungus and mold on adjacent wood.

Waterproofing and vapor barrier - what's the difference?

Waterproofing protects materials from direct ingress of water, and vapor barrier prevents the penetration of wet fumes. Thus, all waterproofing films are laid on the outside, and vapor barriers on the inside. Everything is clear with the walls. But how and what to put on the floor?

Under the hygroscopic insulation on the rough flooring of the first floor, it is better to lay any vapor-tight films, even simple polyethylene ones. They will protect expanded clay or basalt slabs from vapors rising directly from the moist earth. At the same time, expensive membranes that remove moisture to the outside will not be useful here - all evaporation still rises. But, given the ventilated subfloor, they are increasingly returning to the time-tested glassine as a “breathable” material.

But on top of the insulation, it is imperative to lay vapor-permeable films that remove possible moisture. To do this, leave a special ventilation gap (at least 5 cm). If the lag boards are not high enough, a counter-rail is nailed along them, over the membrane, on which the finishing floor is laid.

Underfloor heating - why is it necessary?

Even schoolchildren know the principle of convection - warm air rises up. According to this logic, an uninsulated floor cannot release heat from the house in any way. In fact, heat loss in a cold field reaches 20%!

All because of the same convection - the air from the underground rises into the house, cooling it, and the energy resource is also spent on heating the air in an unheated basement or underground.

Each type of insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages:

• perlite, vermiculite, shungizite - analogues of expanded clay, do not absorb moisture, but are more expensive;





• Styrofoam and its derivatives are not exposed to moisture, so they do not need waterproofing, are lightweight and inexpensive, but create a "greenhouse effect" in the house and are not recommended for wooden houses.

Bulk heaters are laid on a solid flooring, slabs and mats can be placed on a sparse subfloor, one has only to properly lay the waterproofing and protect the insulation from rodents.

Finishing floor and its types

Depending on the desired interior design, almost any floor can be laid in a wooden house:

Wooden floors are great for living rooms. The main thing is to put good waterproofing to protect the insulation. But it is better to lay tiles in the kitchen and in the bathroom - places with high humidity.

In addition, there are variations with the installation of warm wooden floors and even a concrete screed along the logs. So the choice depends only on building skills and design preferences.

Do-it-yourself flooring technology in a wooden house

Underfloor heating is comfortable, economical and extremely functional. Especially when you have to dry winter overalls, jackets and mittens of three children after winter games on the street. And so the entire floor area turns into a capacious battery - it's a sin not to use this!

Concrete screed in a wooden house - reliability and functionality

In a wooden house, a warm floor in a concrete screed is difficult to make, but quite possible:

1. The most important thing when pouring a concrete screed is to correctly calculate the load on the logs in advance. After all, the weight of the finished slab, taking into account the finishing floor, will be about 150 kg / sq.m, and this is without taking into account furniture and residents. The step of the beams when pouring concrete is halved, while the logs themselves are lowered to the height of the screed (if the pouring is done only in the kitchen and bathroom, and not in the whole house).



2. A great way to reduce the weight of the floor is not to lay a subfloor. It is enough to fix the vapor barrier film on the bottom with slats so that the insulation plates do not sag.



3. Over the lag with the obligatory ventilation gap 5 cm thick waterproofing is laid. It is very important to glue all the places of its attachment to the beams with butyl rubber tape - so that there are no holes left through which the screed will wet the insulation.



4. Slate is placed on the waterproofing or cement particle board– they have the best adhesion to concrete. A formwork of the same height as the future screed is installed on top of the level. On substrates from the same slate is laid reinforcing mesh. The height of the substrate is about 1 cm.
5. A "snail" of underfloor heating pipes is laid out. It can be attached to the grid with conventional cable ties. It is important not to forget to lay between the formwork and reinforcement damper tape- to compensate for the expansion of the future floor.



6. To protect yourself, make a trial run of underfloor heating systems with high pressure. If no leaks are found, you can start pouring.



7. After pouring, it is better to vibrate the screed and only then level it with a long rule. It takes 1-2 weeks to water the concrete for it to gain strength. After a month, you can start laying any floor covering.

Wooden floors - simple and beautiful

If the floor joists aren't strong enough to support the weight of the concrete slab, don't fret! After all, you can make a dry warm floor with water heating. To do this, you need boards with grooves for pipes, and foil is used as a heat-reflecting layer. The laminate is on top. The whole process is presented in detail in the video:

Of all options arrangement of flooring - the simplest and most practical. As a rule, such floors are widespread in the construction of private houses and baths, especially wooden ones, from a log house or timber.

This article describes the technology for arranging an insulated lag floor. You will learn all the stages of doing the work with your own hands, and heaters that are optimally suited for thermal insulation of the lag floor in a private house will also be considered.

1 Why is it necessary to insulate the lag floor?

In general, among the advantages that determine the rationality of arranging the lag floor, one can single out the possibility of doing all the work with one's own hands, without the need to contact construction organizations, or rent expensive equipment.

Also an important factor is the speed of arrangement and the simplicity of the technology by which a wooden floor is built with.

Such a design is not deprived of shortcomings - the lag wooden floor has an order of magnitude smaller load bearing capacity than concrete screed. Also, due to the characteristics of the tree, it is not recommended to equip the lag floor in rooms with high humidity.

This floor, compared to concrete screed, dampens impact noise worse, however, this issue is solved by high-quality heaters, which in most cases have good soundproofing properties.

Any floor, including a lag one, is the coldest inner surface in a private house, which, in addition to discomfort, especially in winter time years, can adversely affect health, since a person’s feet react very painfully to constant walking on a cold surface.

1.1 Features of insulation

When performing thermal insulation of the floor with materials and, the thermal conductivity of which ranges from 0.3 to 0.4 W / mk, you will need to lay a layer of insulation 150 mm thick if the flooring is located above a cold basement, or 100 mm - if the floor is located on concrete screed.

The slab insulation is laid between the lags in two layers so that the middle of the upper plate falls on the joints of the lower layer - this technology guarantees the absence of cold bridges (zones with greater thermal conductivity than the main part of the structure), which can become insulation joints.

Also, when insulating a wooden lag floor in a private house, a vapor barrier is mandatory. For this, special vapor barrier membranes (films) are used, which are laid on top of the insulation, and protect the material from the formation of condensate.

Condensation is the main enemy of any thermal insulation, since when moisture is absorbed, the insulation is prone to losing its thermal insulation characteristics, weight gain and decay.

Lay vapor barrier membrane and may also be needed for insulation. This is necessary in cases where a wooden lag floor is installed immediately on the ground surface, or in a private house, on top of a concrete floor slab located above a damp basement.

To improve the soundproofing properties of the insulation, you can use special acoustic pads that fit under the logs and contribute to more effective noise reduction. This is a good option if there is any production equipment located under your floor or in the basement of the house.

2 Types of heaters for the log floor

Considering all the requirements that thermal insulation must meet, it is better to insulate the lag floor with the following materials:

• Expanded clay;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• Extruded polystyrene foam (styrofoam).

2.1 Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a loose insulation, as a result of which the technology of thermal insulation with expanded clay is fundamentally different from the technology inherent in other heaters.

Insulation of a wooden lag floor in a private house with expanded clay, which is produced by swelling clay rock, is quite simple - you need to equip the supporting frame, and simply scatter the insulation between the lags themselves.

When insulating with expanded clay, the presence of a waterproofing and vapor barrier layer is mandatory, since the porous structure of this material contributes to the fact that the insulation freely absorbs any moisture.

To insulate a wooden floor, it is necessary to use expanded clay with different size fractions. In this case, small expanded clay pebbles will fill the joints between large elements, while with homogeneous fractions, there will be many air channels in the thermal insulation.

The thermal conductivity coefficient of this material is 0.19 W / mk, which makes expanded clay insulation quite effective, even with minimum layer thermal insulation.

2.2 Minvata

2.3 Styrofoam

Styrofoam insulation - great option budget insulation. At a low cost, this material has relatively good technical characteristics.

The thermal conductivity of the foam is 0.4 W / mk, this material is vapor-tight, and practically does not absorb moisture - when completely immersed in water for 24 hours, the material gains liquid by no more than 1.5% of its volume.

When insulating a wooden floor with foam, it must be taken into account that the effectiveness of this material is somewhat less than that of more expensive heaters, and you will need to use a thicker layer of insulation (which means that the pie will take more space premises).

For thermal insulation of the floor in a private wooden house the best option is PBS S-30 foam (they are made).

2.4 Penoplex

Penoplex - an improved version conventional foam. This material is considered to be one of the the best heaters, since in terms of technical characteristics it surpasses most of the thermal insulation materials.

The thermal conductivity of foam plastic is 0.28 W / mk, moisture absorption in 24 hours is 02%. Also, the material is characterized by a high vapor barrier, since the insulation consists of completely closed cells through which neither steam nor moisture penetrates.

In addition to effective thermal insulation, foam insulation solves the issue of sound insulation - such a cake is able to jam airborne noise within 41 dB.

In general, if your finances do not limit the choice of insulation, then it is better to insulate the wooden log floor in the house with either foam or mineral wool. Penoplex insulation will cost a little less, since such a cake does not require additional vapor barrier.

2.5 Technology for arranging an insulated lag floor

Creating an insulated lag floor does not require special building skills. In the presence of necessary tools You can make such a cake for the floor with your own hands in 1-2 days.

To insulate the lag floor with mineral wool (foam insulation requires the same), you will need the following materials:

• Slab mineral wool with a density of about 20 kg / m³;
• Vapor barrier membrane;
• Waterproofing film;
• Polyurethane foam, or liquid penoizol;
• Reinforcing aluminum tape;
• Wooden beam (determine the thickness of the beam based on the desired floor height and the thickness of the insulation used, optimally - 15-20 centimeters);
• Nails, screws.

Depending on the features of the house, the technology for fixing the lag on the floor may vary. You can attach the frame in several ways:

• In a wooden house, logs can be installed on load-bearing beams;
• Spacers from boards are installed between the lags (the easiest option)
• AT brick house where a screed is used as a subfloor, the logs are fixed with dowels, using a metal corner;
• Logs are also sometimes cut into the basement of a house, but this technology is very rarely used due to its laboriousness.

2.6 Stages of creating an insulated lag floor

1. A lag frame is created. The step of the frame can vary between 50-100 cm. It is optimal if the step between the lags corresponds to the width of the heat-insulating material (mineral wool, as a rule, is produced in plates 61 cm wide).
2. From below, on each side of the timber, slats are nailed - cranial bars, on which the subfloor covering is installed.
3. It is recommended to leave 5 mm gaps between the boards of the subfloor, which will serve as ventilation.
4. Rolls out over the entire surface of the subfloor waterproofing film. It is most convenient to fix it with a construction stapler.
5. The joints of the film are glued with reinforcing tape.
6. On top of the fixed waterproofing, insulation is tightly laid between the lags.
7. A vapor barrier membrane is fixed on top of the insulation.
8. The joints between the film and the walls are foamed with liquid penoizol, additionally protecting the cake.
9. The logs are sheathed with a front floor covering made of boards.

2.7 Do-it-yourself lag floor insulation features (video)

Committed to environmental safety drives city dwellers closer to nature. And more and more building material becomes a tree. And this is understandable. A wooden house has numerous advantages compared to a stone or built of artificial materials on modern technology. One of the most important parts of a home is a properly installed floor.

When building a house, care is taken not only about its beauty, but also that it is warm and comfortable. Wall insulation is only half the battle. The house must be protected from the cold from below. The tree is natural material prone to decay, therefore it is important and reliable isolation from moisture. And finally, it should look nice and match interior decoration premises. In order for all goals to be achieved, it is not enough to lay the boards on a concrete base.

The floor in the house should be smooth, warm, beautiful and durable. All these qualities are achieved by laying the floor in several layers:

• base;
• heat and vapor barrier;
• draft floor;
• clean coverage.

It looks like a layer cake, doesn't it? That is why it is called the pie of the floor. His proper arrangement will help you avoid:

• high energy costs for heating the house;
• excessive moisture, which will inevitably lead to the appearance of mold and mildew;
• rotting of internal wooden structures.

Types of floors and their features

Homes may have different design. It must be taken into account when arranging floors. Laying the floor of the first floor depends on whether there is ground floor, or it will be laid directly on the foundation. Here you need reliable thermal and steam protection.

For floors sound insulation is more important, since the lower and upper floors bear the main burden of keeping warm and protecting against moisture.

The attic space must also be separated from the living room by an insulated floor in order to avoid heat loss through the ceilings of the upper floor.

Floor Options

The floor can be wood or concrete. The choice depends on the desire of the owner and technical feasibility.

Wooden floor - advantages and disadvantages

It would seem that the answer is simple - a wooden house should have a wooden floor. It is easier, cheaper and faster to make it without resorting to the services of professional builders. The design will be light enough and any foundation will withstand it. Again, this is an environmentally friendly option and it fits well into the interior.

However, there are a few "buts". Wooden floor will last a maximum of 10 years. The tree tends to rot, no matter how you protect it from external influences. In addition, carpenter beetles will also do their job. For a wooden floor, constant humidity in the house is important - no more than 60%. Otherwise, the floor will begin to deform and rot. Laying a wooden floor must be done with great care so that later it does not warp or creak.

Concrete floor

Its main advantage is durability. You can put any finishing coating on it - laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles. However, this is a rather heavy structure that not every foundation can withstand. Concrete is used only for laying the floor of the lower floor.

In modern wooden cottages, as a rule, there is a basement where a boiler room, workshop or other utility rooms. To overlap between the basement and first floor, it is better to use concrete plates. This is a more expensive option than wooden logs but more reliable.

The choice of thermal and waterproofing

Several materials can be chosen as thermal insulation. The most environmentally friendly is expanded clay. It is inexpensive, non-flammable, does not rot, and mold does not form on it. But its thermal insulation qualities leave much to be desired.

Another environmentally friendly pure material- it's sawdust. At sawmills, they can be obtained almost for free. They have low thermal conductivity, suitable for insulation attic floor. The disadvantages include their ability to decrease in volume over time, exposure to moisture and, as a result, the formation of fungus. You can reduce these risks with the help of additives - clay, cement, lime or boric acid as an antiseptic.

Mineral wool (or glass wool) is also a budget option. It does not burn, retains heat well and has high soundproofing properties. But its styling requires compliance with a certain technology, in addition, it can cause allergies and skin irritation.

Polyfoam is one of the most convenient options in all respects. It is cheap, has good thermal insulation qualities, and is easy to install. On it you can make a dense reinforced screed. From the same series - extruded polystyrene foam, it is more resistant to moisture.

Waterproofing

This is an equally important component of the floor pie. The easiest option is plastic wrap.

The second option is pasting roll materials, consisting of a waterproof material with a bitumen-polymer composition applied to it. Its use is justified where The groundwater come close to the surface. Most often, ruberoid is used for this purpose.

The most technologically advanced and most expensive option is a membrane coating. It is a self-adhesive film consisting of three layers - rigid plastic film, bitumen-polymer and anti-adhesive layer. It is convenient to use it to create waterproofing in rooms with a complex configuration.

Wooden floor cake

The basic principles for creating a wood floor cake are the exact calculation and alignment of all parameters. No less important choice of wood. The following types are commonly used in construction:

• pine can only be used if the board is not very resinous. Such a floor will bring into the room very nice smell needles;
• oak is the most reliable and durable material;
• maple is easy to process and moisture resistant;
• larch is comparable in strength to oak, has a natural protection against insects. The most expensive option.

The tree must necessarily be treated with an antiseptic against decay and a fire retardant, which reduces its combustibility.

floor laying

laying down wooden structure on the foundation, it is tightly fastened to it and to load-bearing structures walls. The disadvantage of this method is that in case of deformation general design(and it is inevitable under changes in temperature and humidity) the floor can also warp.

Laying on beams

If the house seasonal residence, you can make a single-layer floor. For a residential building, a two-layer one is more suitable - rough and finish.

The beams are aligned and fastened to the foundation. The distance between them is 2.5-3 meters. To create a double floor, logs are laid on top of the beams - bars 5-6 cm thick. The laying step is 60-70 cm. unedged board. It needs to be trimmed and sanded. There may be small gaps between the boards, which will be covered with hydro and thermal insulation. On the insulating layers, the bars are again laid, which serve as the basis for the finishing layer. Their height should be no more than 2-3 cm, this will ensure ventilation between the layers. Finish coating you can choose according to your taste - wood, laminate or linoleum.

Laying on support posts

More acceptable would be laying the floor on the posts. In this case, there is no adhesion of the floor cake to the walls, a gap is left between them. This design is called "floating". It is suitable for houses where there is no basement.

Work order

1. Marking for posts (step 60-70 cm) and sampling the soil by about half a meter. Moreover, it is not necessary to choose the entire soil over the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house, so as not to then fill it back up to a certain level so that a draft does not walk under the floor.
2. Backfilling and tamping the bottom under the posts - it must be hard.
3. The columns are made of burnt bricks or poured with concrete. In the latter case, you need to make formwork. Their upper part is leveled.
4. Backfilling of the heat-insulating layer (expanded clay, sawdust), about 25 cm should remain to the top of the columns.
5. After the solution has completely solidified, the beams are laid.

It is more convenient to set the supports first along the perimeter, and only then in the middle. On top of them, two layers of waterproofing are laid out - roofing material. Logs are laid out along the supports from a bar or log. Further assembly of the floor is carried out in the same order as the installation on the beams. The space between the poured soil and the subfloor is filled up warmly insulating material, leaving 5 cm free for ventilation.

Floor cake on a concrete base

The concrete base can be laid on the ground. There are practically no contraindications for arranging such a floor - neither the seismicity of the area nor the height matters. ground water, nor the freezing level.

The layers of the pie line up in the following order.

Step 1. Cleaning the site from the fertile layer of the earth, leveling and compacting the soil.

In the photo, tamping the soil

Step 2 Backfill - sand and gravel. First, sand is poured out with a layer of 8 cm, you can use any. The layer is also rammed. Crushed stone should be a fraction of at least 30-50 mm, the height of the bedding is 7-10 cm. The layer of crushed stone must be leveled. It can not be rammed.

Step 3 On top of the sprinkled layers is done rough screed from concrete. The height of the solution layer is 5-7 cm. You can make a reinforced screed. For this, a reinforcing mesh is laid on the crushed stone before pouring.

Step 4 Waterproofing is laid on the screed. To do this, use roofing material or film. The strips are overlapped and fixed with construction tape. The waterproofing material should go on the walls by 20-25 cm.

Step 5. Laying of plates or strips of thermal insulation is carried out end-to-end, they must be tightly pressed against each other.

Step 6 A film is again spread over the insulating layer. Double protection of the heat-insulating layer from the penetration of moisture from below and from above will prevent its premature damage.

Step 7 The next layer is a reinforced finishing screed. For the final and perfect leveling of the floor, beacons are set. The screed solution is made from small - 5-10 mm - crushed stone and river sand. Reinforced with wire mesh with rods 3-4 mm, layer thickness - 7-10 cm.

Construction of a wooden floor when laid on a concrete base

Step 9. Flooring can be anything.

On such a floor cake you can safely put internal walls in home. That is why reinforcement must be done with a mesh, and not with a separate reinforcement.

Features of the concrete floor device

1. It is necessary to start making a floor cake no earlier than the walls of the house are built.
2. The concrete screed must be poured at a time, otherwise the floor will turn out to be of poor quality.
3. Within a week after pouring, it must be constantly spilled with water to avoid the formation of microcracks.
4. Full operation is possible no earlier than two weeks after filling.

Video - Concrete floor on the ground

Floor slab cake

It will not be so multi-layered, its main task is to reduce the audibility between floors. On the other hand, the ceiling must be strong in order to withstand the weight of interior partitions, engineering equipment and furniture.

The most convenient will beam construction. By the way, it can be beaten in the interior of the first floor. In any case, a double floor is needed - rough and finish.

For the structure to be strong, the cross section of the beam must be at least 15 cm. The length of a solid wood beam is from 2.5 to 3.6 m, from glued beams - from 4.2 to 6 m.

The gap between the insulation and waterproofing will improve the characteristics of the "pie"

Step 5 Finishing is laid on top, and then the floor covering.

The beam ceiling is convenient in that the space between them can hide everything engineering Communication- cables, pipes, etc. Such overlays are the best way for a wooden house.

A beautiful flat warm dry floor is not just aesthetically pleasing. This is the warmth in the house and the health of its residents.

Video - Installation of an insulated ceiling with visible beams

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A clean wooden floor is laid on the logs different ways. Which of the technologies is optimal in one case or another depends on many factors, including the financial capabilities of the owner, geological and climatic features. The classical method is always taken as the basis of all technologies. What options for flooring in a wooden house are most often used, we will consider their design features in this article.

Under the lags it is customary to understand the beam rectangular section, but in fact this concept includes several design solutions at once:

1. The log is the thinnest part of which has a cross section of at least 150 mm;
2. A log hewn on two sides with a cross section of at least 150 mm;
3. Boards spliced ​​in pairs with a width of 100 mm and a thickness of 25 mm;
4. A beam of rectangular section, of various sections depending on the future load. The cross section of the genital lag is calculated depending on the load and step width. In accordance with GOST, the minimum applicable section is 100x150 mm in increments of 60 cm;
5. Channel metal I-beam;
6. Reiki used during dry leveling and insulation;
7. Plastic long-dimensional elements used in the assembly of the screed in the factory.

Log laying method

Any logs made of various materials have one functional purpose: fixing and installation of a finishing and subfloor in a wooden house.

According to the installation design, the beams are divided:

• Laying on wooden beams;
• Laying on slabs;
• Laying on a support pole;
• Laying on prepared ground.

The relationship between the floor structure and the occurrence of groundwater

From the proximity of the occurrence of groundwater and design features, it is determined whether or not there will be an underground. The smaller the distance from the log to the ground, the less labor-intensive laying. They distinguish the design according to GOST in terms of the seasonal location of groundwater, they also dictate the type of construction:

1. If groundwater is low, then you can do the most simple design floor without underfloor. This variant can be seen in cottage construction or in garden houses. For the southern regions and in middle lane In Russia, this method is appropriate in residential construction if the basement of the house is higher than 1 m.
2. If groundwater is close to the ground surface, then the wooden floor and logs must be protected from harmful effects. In this case, support columns are laid out from silicate brick or concrete.

You can find out the level of groundwater in the area and determine which floor device is most suitable for construction on the map at the local weather service.

Classic floor design

As we have already said, all floor designs are divided into: with and without underground space. Without an underground device, it is cold and needs to be insulated. Several methods have been devised for this. More interesting floors with a subfloor. They are made thermally insulated and not. Thermally insulated are subdivided depending on the location of the insulating part: between supports or lags. Among more variety the simplest is a cold floor device.

Features of installation of a classic cold floor

Laying on dry soil is carried out in several stages:

1. Soil preparation: removable soil-vegetation layer and the earth is rammed
2. The second stage is filled with a sand cushion; as a savings, you can use construction garbage mixing it with sand or crushed stone with sand. This pillow is again carefully rammed. You can ram the layers hand tool, which is made from a heavy block and bar. which is attached across the top.
3. A floor frame is made from another layer of sand or clay or slag. This layer should have a thickness of d 2-3 times the cross section of the timber used as a log. The main thing is that this layer is sufficiently dry and protects the wooden floor from moisture. This layer is filled up flush with the lags of the future floor.

by the most economical option construction is considered to be the use of slag, but it needs to rest before use, so you need to purchase it a year before laying.

Since the tree is susceptible to fungi and mold, before laying the wooden logs in the finishing layer, they must be covered with an antiseptic and dried. Logs are laid in increments of 60-65 cm, this is enough for a sheet pile structure with a width of 35-40 mm. If you use a wide board for the floor in a wooden house in a cold way, then over time it will warp. Do not forget that such a tan must have ventilation. Ventilation acts as an exhaust hood, it must be done in the form of holes in the skirting boards on both sides.

When laying sex logs important point is an their location. Each board is cut out of wood, which has annual rings, and you should focus on them. The laying should be such that the pattern is directed in opposite directions at each subsequent board, so they will not warp each other.

Features of installation of insulated classic floor

This variant of the floor device in a wooden house is laid on a kind of cake along wooden beams. The construction of a pie is intended for hydro- and thermal insulation of a wooden floor. The main layers of the pie along the beams are performed in stages:

1. A pit is dug, the bottom of which is lined with insulating material, such as roofing felt or bags of lime or cement. If bags are selected, then they are laid out in 2 layers.
2. The next step is to pour a black pillow 8-10 cm thick and carefully compact it and fill it with a solution of lime (5 parts of water x 1 part of lime).
3. All this is covered with a waterproofing layer, for example, from roofing material. joints are glued with bitumen solution.
4. The next layer of the pie is fiberboard. Plates are taken with a thickness of 30 mm.
5. Expanded clay pillow is poured on the fiberboard from a fine fraction material with a thickness of 8-9 cm.
6. The final layer of the pie will be concrete pouring, the main part of which is sand.
7. Then logs are laid in increments of 60 cm, on which the floor is attached.

These are schemes of a classic floor design without an underground with insulation. But for residential buildings this option is not the best. For a wooden house in the city, it is better to use an underground structure, where the insulation takes place along the beams from above, which we will discuss below.

Classic floor construction with underground

For this design, soil preparation is performed in exactly the same way as the first two cases. The most important difference in the design is that instead of sand cushion in this case, lined columns or solid concrete ones are used. The pillars are laid on a pre-filled foundation, each has its own or common to all. The width of the foundation device should be wider by 5-6 cm of the column.

In the construction of a floor with an underfloor, the finishing boards must be laid “in a cross” with lags. It is good if the direction of the wooden floorboards is parallel to the light falling from the window in the room. If the floor does not have a crate on top for additional insulation, then the logs are mounted across the direction of the boards. All measurements are carried out, starting from the central axes of the columns and logs. From above, the pillars are covered with a layer of waterproofing made of roofing material. The first log is mounted with a gap of 10-20 cm from the wall, the same is done with the opposite final log.

Underground cold design fall asleep with a pillow of expanded clay or slag. But you always need to leave 5-6 cm to the lag not covered, this will be a ventilated gap. In order to better ventilate the underground space, holes are made in the plinth. According to GOST, ventilation for an area of ​​15 m2 involves 2 holes. For better ventilation, they are made in opposite sides wooden house. And in order to prevent rodents from climbing into the ventilation, a metal mesh is installed in the device.

There are more modern way ventilation device, when the main pipe is led underground and ventilation is carried out under the action of natural draft.

The main difference between a warm floor device with an underground and a cold one is an additional crate on the logs along the beams, not from the side of the underground, but from the side of the house where the insulation is laid. For this design, a rail is nailed on both sides along the beams, which will hold the crate. Waterproofing from a conventional PVC film is laid on the crate, on top of which mineral wool is laid or expanded clay from a fine fraction is poured. But between the top point of the log and the insulation there should be a ventilated gap. To ventilate the underground space, in this case, ventilation is done in the basement of the house in increments of 5-6 m. In the winter season, the fragrances in the basement are closed, the easiest way to do this mounting foam, in the spring it is easy to cut it out with a clerical knife.

These are the main design options for the classic floor model in a wooden house, which are complemented by various components. Wooden floors in the house are environmentally friendly and beautiful, but after installation, various problems may appear, such as creaking. Let's talk about how to deal with this.

How to deal with floor squeak

To understand how to eliminate the creak, you need to find its cause. And there may be several of them: the board rubs against a nail, creaks by itself batten, logs creak, skirting boards are not installed correctly, ventilation is not equipped and the floor gets wet, etc.

If the reason is in the logs, you need to carefully examine the logs of the wooden floor and, if there are any, trim them. If the creak does not stop after that, then the lag needs to be replaced.

If the reason is the board, you need to carefully examine how the boards move when a person passes over them and see if they rub against each other. You can try to solve the problem by pouring talcum powder between the boards or pouring PVA glue. In fact, there are many ways, but there are several traditional ways squeaky wood flooring:

1. A wooden wedge is hammered into the gap between the creaking boards.
2. If this does not help, a screw is driven between the boards, the head of which is bitten off, and the hole is puttied and painted over.
3. This is the most time-consuming method using pins. The joints of the floorboards are shot through with holes of 10-15 mm in increments of 15-30 cm. Round pins are made of wood and carefully coated with PVA glue and hammered into the holes. The surface is sanded and painted.
4. The floorboard in places of creaking is additionally screwed to the logs with hardened self-tapping screws in increments of 50 mm.
5. Thin strips are cut out of felt, which are laid out along the length of the floor in increments of 40-50 mm and closed with fiberboard.

Any of the methods is considered effective against creaking, but when correct installation wooden floor on the logs even the construction of ordinary boards will be quiet.